Little known item about the Scotch-Brite pads. The military nomenclature was Aluminum-oxide impregnated plastic woven pads. rated at 220 grit. Used thousands of those things doing aircraft corrosion control. A cue maker I know uses alcohol and a Magic Eraser. When I get home I just grab the Magic Eraser and the alcohol and give it a complete wipe down. I'll go over it with a brown paper bag to make it shine (burnish it). The bit about keeping your hands clean is spot on.
That "chalk" on the Scotchbrite pad is wood dust. Green--and even the smoother gray--Scotchbrite pads are basically sandpaper. The best thing to use is a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. It is not abrasive like Scotchbrite.
Very nice presentation.. Btw, is there any way to straighten a bended shaft? Is there any chance at all? My local cue made in the Philippines bent while it's in the cue case for some time.
I VARNISHED all my shafts while they were brand new. Then i matte them with a 1000 grid sandpaper, and periodically every now and then I clean them with a face cleansing pad soaked in isopropyl alcohol. They are all like just a brand new. To be honest, I use a billiards glove to play. Without the glove shafts would feel a little sticky, but with the glove they feel smooth like a silk. It's a pitty that ALL the manufacturers leave shafts unprotected and exposed to dirt and moisture.
He is using the green pad, very coarse, ScotchBrite pads come in several "grits", maroon is better, grey is better yet, white is the best. But alcohol and a micro fiber cloth is the best of all.
Friction from air flow would do the same over a long enough time period. That's how friction works. They key is to apply as little friction as needed so that it doesn't make a noticeable difference over the life of the cue. As he said, don't use a lot of pressure, you don't want to sand it down.
@@KenNakajima07 don't EVER USE THIS METHOD.; but it is your shaft. I for won't ruin a 100.00 shaft with a scotch brite pad. I clean my shaft after each use. I use an excellent shaft cleaner that is made for that purpose, it keeps them like new.
VERY informative. Love shooting pool, and just found buried in storage some of my cue sticks and cases. TYVM
Little known item about the Scotch-Brite pads. The military nomenclature was Aluminum-oxide impregnated plastic woven pads. rated at 220 grit. Used thousands of those things doing aircraft corrosion control. A cue maker I know uses alcohol and a Magic Eraser. When I get home I just grab the Magic Eraser and the alcohol and give it a complete wipe down. I'll go over it with a brown paper bag to make it shine (burnish it). The bit about keeping your hands clean is spot on.
That "chalk" on the Scotchbrite pad is wood dust. Green--and even the smoother gray--Scotchbrite pads are basically sandpaper. The best thing to use is a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. It is not abrasive like Scotchbrite.
Very nice presentation.. Btw, is there any way to straighten a bended shaft? Is there any chance at all? My local cue made in the Philippines bent while it's in the cue case for some time.
I VARNISHED all my shafts while they were brand new. Then i matte them with a 1000 grid sandpaper, and periodically every now and then I clean them with a face cleansing pad soaked in isopropyl alcohol. They are all like just a brand new. To be honest, I use a billiards glove to play. Without the glove shafts would feel a little sticky, but with the glove they feel smooth like a silk.
It's a pitty that ALL the manufacturers leave shafts unprotected and exposed to dirt and moisture.
He is using the green pad, very coarse, ScotchBrite pads come in several "grits", maroon is better, grey is better yet, white is the best. But alcohol and a micro fiber cloth is the best of all.
please don't use "scotch bright pads.unless you want to shool with a tooth pick .tHIS GUY DOES NOT KNOW WHAT HE TALKING ABOUT!!!
You don't need chalk on the edge of the tip? Have you ;looked at the way the curved tip strikes the curved ball?
He clearly doesn't know anything about putting English on the ball, ergo, he doesn't know how to play pool!
You don't need Chalk right in the very center. That is only for center ball shots, and no chalk is needed to avoid miscues.
I think he means the side of the tip, where you can see the layers, not the front side of the tip itself.
won't that reduce the diameter of the shaft in the long run?
Friction from air flow would do the same over a long enough time period. That's how friction works. They key is to apply as little friction as needed so that it doesn't make a noticeable difference over the life of the cue. As he said, don't use a lot of pressure, you don't want to sand it down.
Gonzalo Roman I
YES !!!!!
He did it gently and said do not sand... Probably you'll wear out sooner than your cue.
@@KenNakajima07 don't EVER USE THIS METHOD.; but it is your shaft. I for won't ruin a 100.00 shaft with a scotch brite pad. I clean my shaft after each use. I use an excellent shaft cleaner that is made for that purpose, it keeps them like new.
Pure gold
This dude has no clue what he’s talking about. I would never do any of that to a blackboar shaft
Its not chalk youre essentially sanding your shaft. FFS
I made it myself thanks to woodprix website.