Growing up a dear close friend of our family, whom we still stay in touch with, inherited very old Hummels and then continued to collect and conserve them. Generally, there are very few figurines I personally like, and though I own none, I love Hummel and I hope these don't get lost into the same oblivion that kitsch seems to naturally gravitate toward (and no, I don't think Hummels are kitsch but I could list several that are!) Nice restoration. Watching you work lowers my blood pressure and returns my love of people.
Thank you for this video. I have 2 Hummel figurines passed down from my Mom, both with a couple of key pieces broken off. I have been struggling to get the repair to set. Your technique of using small pieces of tape to hold the glued pieces in place is ingenious and I had never thought of it. So thanks for giving me some hope, and I will try again!
This is a comment/request I left on your video of repairing a vase that had half of the top missing. Thought you might not see it as it was a year ago, and since this is more recent, that you might see it quicker here. EXCELLENT REPAIR !!! CAN YOU PLEASE TELL WHAT KIND OF MATERIAL YOU USED FOR THE MOLD YOU USED AND ALSO THE EPOXIES? ONE WAS SOFTER THAN THE OTHER. ALSO, HAVE YOU EVER REPAIRED A HOLE, WHERE THE PIECE IS MISSING AND THERE'S JUST AN ASYMMETRICAL HOLE IN THE MIDDLE OF AN ITEM - LIKE A TUREEN OR PLANTER? thanks very much
The mold material I used was a quick silicone kit you can get at your local arts & crafts type store (Michael's, Beverly's, Art Supplies, etc.) I show a box of it in the "Chinese Tureen Repair" video. It's "the purple stuff". What I use to cast missing ceramic parts I need to make repairs, generally, is a product called "A+B Epoxy". Yeah, I know, ALL epoxies are A plus B. In this case that's the actual brand name. The one I use is a buff colored epoxy putty, and it is very hard and very tough. You can sand, saw, drill, tap, carve it, and I can stuff it into a stiff mold. The softer epoxy fill you refer to is called "Milliput", made in Wales (British Isles) and comes in white, tan, terracotta, black and sort of silver/gray. It is softer than the A+B Brand epoxy and I use it for finer fills. This stuff gets into the tiniest of hairline cracks and is relatively easy to smooth out, file and sand, compared to the A+B Brand. Yes, I have often had to make a missing odd shaped piece in the middle of a side of a vase or tureen. For that I'd use the A+B Brand putty epoxy. I would just slightly over-fill that hole with the putty, then file/sand it down to the surface level of the existing ceramic.
Just to be sure. The more important steps in order to eliminate all visible cracks is to use superfine milliput and proper sanding. The cold glaze application may not hide all the cracks in order for them to be invisible at the end
Yes, Milliput is used to fill voids and cracks, even the tiny ones. That is sanded, then, if needed, another application of milliput, and sanded. Then that's followed with a couple coats of cold glaze. The cold glaze will make an even finer fill and transition from the fills to the original surface. The cold glaze, once sanded, also will provide a surface that will help the paint adhere better than just applying paint to the bare original glaze. Cold Glaze is also applied after each coat of paint.
great work. ive seen tons of steps of repairs on youtube showing milliput, glueing etc. but none go over the mixture of cold glaze ratios of sylmasta and thinner and putting it into the airbrush etc. also, if the paint in the airbrush is thinned out and with what. thx for help and i hope someone can post a video with that step. it would be very useful.
you may have answered this several times but; can you please tell me what airbrush set is best for use with hummels and why not use just brushes? Thank you, excellent work that you do on the broken pieces that most people would have discarded..
I use Iwata brand double action airbrushes. I use several different models. Any decent quality airbrush would work for painting Hummels. You don't need an airbrush to paint Hummels, but I do; especially for laying in the background colors. After that, where ever there are visible brush strokes, I use brushes. If you are good enough at painting with brushes, you could definitely paint Hummels with them.
Will you share your formula for "Elmer's" based bonding agent? Is it Elmer's white glue and Elmer's glue all mixed together at a certain ratio? You mention this in a comment below, or am I misunderstanding the comment you left to Suzy Solvesky 1 year ago. Or are these two products the same? Thanks Kevin
I no longer use my "Elmer's based formula". I'm not passing along the recipe because it it difficult to get the mixture just right, and it doesn't have a very long shelf life. I've been using plain old Elmer's White Glue. It's a good old stand by and works great on porous ceramics. The proper name, on the label is: "Elmer's Multi-Purpose Glue All".
@@marsgitar Thanks. I have a few Precious Moments figurines that I gave my wife earlier on in our marriage that have fallen from their perches I tried crazy glue and Duco cement which they recommend on their website but not having good results.
Can you repair a candle light that is missing from an old Hummel? Someone patched the wings but did a poor job. I also have another with broken wings but have them. Can you tell me where to send them, please?
Yes, I can repair your Hummels. If you'd like an estimate, please email me some photos to (mscherer@tesserak.net). If you just want to send them in, my address is: Tesserak Studios, 5101 McFarlane Rd., Sebastopol, CA. 95472.
Can you please explain what glues you mix together for Hummel figurine repair? What do you add to the Elmer’s bonding glue? I have been trying to use Super Glue which is very difficult to set the pieces in place.
I don't use that old Elmer's-based formula of mine anymore. I'm not going to divulge the formula because you shouldn't use it. I use good old Elmer's "glue all" for use on most porous materials. It's strong and it is undo-able (dissolves in water). Elmer's is plenty strong for Hummels. I don't recommend Super Glue for repairing ceramics. It's a major pain for me, as people try fixing things with it. They mess it up badly, then bring it to me to fix. I charge them extra to undo their glue-up screw-up. There's pretty much nothing that will dissolve CA glue. Acetone will weaken it . . . sometimes.
I would just like to ask please, is there a reason you used Elmers Glue rather than epoxy this time? Thank you. PS I love your videos Martin, so helpful for those of us still learning.
I'm glad to know elmer's all purpose glue can be used. I'd like to ask, though, about slow drying epoxy that I have seen mentioned elsewhere for ceramic. Do you have a reason for not using it? thanks. @@marsgitar
@@catalot: This ceramic is porous and small. Elmer's is the best choice for this kind of repair because it is formulated for this kind of material. Epoxy works best when there is space between the pieces being bonded. I want these pieces as close together as possible for a good fit and alignment.
Martin you are great and i am learning a lot from you. Could you do a tutorial about how you match colours and what products you recomend us? I would like to learn everything with you...all the process. Thanks a lot for make me be interested in this topic. Best regards from Spain.
In this case the white stuff is the background color. Here, I'm using acrylic paints by Golden brand. The color I'm using is called "Titan Buff". Only Golden makes this color.
Thank you,for the answer,I try repair large sitzendorf figure group,and when I use glue,After filler,After sand it,and apply paints on it,it's every time,I have problem ,I can see connection where two parts was glued,thank you.
Sorry, but this is not a "how-to" video. It doesn't claim to be one. Also, it's one of my older videos. The newer ones are more info oriented. I always answer viewer's questions though. So, to answer your questions: The glue is Elmers white glue. The tape is masking tape. The files are steel files from Harbor Freight. The filler is Milliput superfine white. The paint is Goldens brand acrylics. The final sealer is Sylmasta brand Cold Glaze Pro II.
Can you please, for those of us who want to do our own repairs, tell what your special glue, based on Elmer's white glue, is? I would so appreciate it! Thank you.
Growing up a dear close friend of our family, whom we still stay in touch with, inherited very old Hummels and then continued to collect and conserve them. Generally, there are very few figurines I personally like, and though I own none, I love Hummel and I hope these don't get lost into the same oblivion that kitsch seems to naturally gravitate toward (and no, I don't think Hummels are kitsch but I could list several that are!) Nice restoration. Watching you work lowers my blood pressure and returns my love of people.
Thank you for this video. I have 2 Hummel figurines passed down from my Mom, both with a couple of key pieces broken off. I have been struggling to get the repair to set. Your technique of using small pieces of tape to hold the glued pieces in place is ingenious and I had never thought of it. So thanks for giving me some hope, and I will try again!
You're welcome.
Good luck with your repairs.
what a beautify figurine!
Another amazing repair, thank you for sharing ❗️❗️❗️
This is a comment/request I left on your video of repairing a vase that had half of the top missing. Thought you might not see it as it was a year ago, and since this is more recent, that you might see it quicker here.
EXCELLENT REPAIR !!! CAN YOU PLEASE TELL WHAT KIND OF MATERIAL YOU USED FOR THE MOLD YOU USED AND ALSO THE EPOXIES? ONE WAS SOFTER THAN THE OTHER. ALSO, HAVE YOU EVER REPAIRED A HOLE, WHERE THE PIECE IS MISSING AND THERE'S JUST AN ASYMMETRICAL HOLE IN THE MIDDLE OF AN ITEM - LIKE A TUREEN OR PLANTER? thanks very much
The mold material I used was a quick silicone kit you can get at your local arts & crafts type store (Michael's, Beverly's, Art Supplies, etc.) I show a box of it in the "Chinese Tureen Repair" video. It's "the purple stuff".
What I use to cast missing ceramic parts I need to make repairs, generally, is a product called "A+B Epoxy". Yeah, I know, ALL epoxies are A plus B. In this case that's the actual brand name. The one I use is a buff colored epoxy putty, and it is very hard and very tough. You can sand, saw, drill, tap, carve it, and I can stuff it into a stiff mold.
The softer epoxy fill you refer to is called "Milliput", made in Wales (British Isles) and comes in white, tan, terracotta, black and sort of silver/gray. It is softer than the A+B Brand epoxy and I use it for finer fills. This stuff gets into the tiniest of hairline cracks and is relatively easy to smooth out, file and sand, compared to the A+B Brand.
Yes, I have often had to make a missing odd shaped piece in the middle of a side of a vase or tureen. For that I'd use the A+B Brand putty epoxy. I would just slightly over-fill that hole with the putty, then file/sand it down to the surface level of the existing ceramic.
Just to be sure. The more important steps in order to eliminate all visible cracks is to use superfine milliput and proper sanding.
The cold glaze application may not hide all the cracks in order for them to be invisible at the end
Yes, Milliput is used to fill voids and cracks, even the tiny ones. That is sanded, then, if needed, another application of milliput, and sanded. Then that's followed with a couple coats of cold glaze. The cold glaze will make an even finer fill and transition from the fills to the original surface. The cold glaze, once sanded, also will provide a surface that will help the paint adhere better than just applying paint to the bare original glaze. Cold Glaze is also applied after each coat of paint.
@@marsgitar thanks for sharing the information. Very appreciated
great work. ive seen tons of steps of repairs on youtube showing milliput, glueing etc. but none go over the mixture of cold glaze ratios of sylmasta and thinner and putting it into the airbrush etc. also, if the paint in the airbrush is thinned out and with what. thx for help and i hope someone can post a video with that step. it would be very useful.
I'll try to address these questions in a future video. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@marsgitar you are a damn rock star for considering it. THANK YOU
Fascinating work...such skill. Can you tell me what brand or type of paint you use for your air brush?
Thanks for the compliment. I use Golden brand acrylic paints and medium.
you may have answered this several times but; can you please tell me what airbrush set is best for use with hummels and why not use just brushes? Thank you, excellent work that you do on the broken pieces that most people would have discarded..
I use Iwata brand double action airbrushes. I use several different models. Any decent quality airbrush would work for painting Hummels.
You don't need an airbrush to paint Hummels, but I do; especially for laying in the background colors. After that, where ever there are visible brush strokes, I use brushes. If you are good enough at painting with brushes, you could definitely paint Hummels with them.
Will you share your formula for "Elmer's" based bonding agent? Is it Elmer's white glue and Elmer's glue all mixed together at a certain ratio? You mention this in a comment below, or am I misunderstanding the comment you left to Suzy Solvesky
1 year ago. Or are these two products the same? Thanks Kevin
I no longer use my "Elmer's based formula". I'm not passing along the recipe because it it difficult to get the mixture just right, and it doesn't have a very long shelf life. I've been using plain old Elmer's White Glue. It's a good old stand by and works great on porous ceramics. The proper name, on the label is: "Elmer's Multi-Purpose Glue All".
@@marsgitar Thanks. I have a few Precious Moments figurines that I gave my wife earlier on in our marriage that have fallen from their perches I tried crazy glue and Duco cement which they recommend on their website but not having good results.
Hi, are you still doing restoration work on Hummels? I have a little piece I need replaced on my apple tree girl.
Yes, I'm still doing restoration. See my contact info at www.tesserak.com
How do you do liquid mask? (which materials? just white paint or something else
Can you repair a candle light that is missing from an old Hummel? Someone patched the wings but did a poor job. I also have another with broken wings but have them. Can you tell me where to send them, please?
Yes, I can repair your Hummels. If you'd like an estimate, please email me some photos to (mscherer@tesserak.net). If you just want to send them in, my address is:
Tesserak Studios, 5101 McFarlane Rd., Sebastopol, CA. 95472.
Can you please explain what glues you mix together for Hummel figurine repair? What do you add to the Elmer’s bonding glue? I have been trying to use Super Glue which is very difficult to set the pieces in place.
I don't use that old Elmer's-based formula of mine anymore. I'm not going to divulge the formula because you shouldn't use it.
I use good old Elmer's "glue all" for use on most porous materials. It's strong and it is undo-able (dissolves in water). Elmer's is plenty strong for Hummels.
I don't recommend Super Glue for repairing ceramics. It's a major pain for me, as people try fixing things with it. They mess it up badly, then bring it to me to fix. I charge them extra to undo their glue-up screw-up. There's pretty much nothing that will dissolve CA glue. Acetone will weaken it . . . sometimes.
@@marsgitar Thank you so much for your help. I’m looking forward to trying the Elmer’s next time I attempt the repair!
I would just like to ask please, is there a reason you used Elmers Glue rather than epoxy this time? Thank you. PS I love your videos Martin, so helpful for those of us still learning.
This is made of a porous ceramic. Elmer's is the best choice for this repair.
I'm glad to know elmer's all purpose glue can be used. I'd like to ask, though, about slow drying epoxy that I have seen mentioned elsewhere for ceramic. Do you have a reason for not using it? thanks. @@marsgitar
@@catalot: This ceramic is porous and small. Elmer's is the best choice for this kind of repair because it is formulated for this kind of material. Epoxy works best when there is space between the pieces being bonded. I want these pieces as close together as possible for a good fit and alignment.
Martin you are great and i am learning a lot from you. Could you do a tutorial about how you match colours and what products you recomend us? I would like to learn everything with you...all the process. Thanks a lot for make me be interested in this topic. Best regards from Spain.
Hello,I have one question ,what's the name of that white staff,you spray before ,aplink properly paints,thank you.
In this case the white stuff is the background color. Here, I'm using acrylic paints by Golden brand. The color I'm using is called "Titan Buff". Only Golden makes this color.
Thank you,for the answer,I try repair large sitzendorf figure group,and when I use glue,After filler,After sand it,and apply paints on it,it's every time,I have problem ,I can see connection where two parts was glued,thank you.
@@robisrublis61 you need to go over the glue line with Milluput/file/sand that joint to smooth it out.
Thank you,I will try the best.
Do you do repairs?
Yes, I'm a professional restorer with over 12 years experience.
nice work
Abdul FATAHU
In a how to video I was looking for proper glue, filler, type of file, tape etc. I didn’t get this!
Sorry, but this is not a "how-to" video. It doesn't claim to be one. Also, it's one of my older videos. The newer ones are more info oriented. I always answer viewer's questions though.
So, to answer your questions: The glue is Elmers white glue. The tape is masking tape. The files are steel files from Harbor Freight. The filler is Milliput superfine white. The paint is Goldens brand acrylics. The final sealer is Sylmasta brand Cold Glaze Pro II.
Can you please, for those of us who want to do our own repairs, tell what your special glue, based on Elmer's white glue, is? I would so appreciate it! Thank you.
It is Elmers white glue: Elmer's Glue All. Just don't buy the kiddie crafts version.
Nice reparations