Insulating The Front Cab of Your GMC Motorhome
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2024
- (Written & Directed By Jim Bounds)
If you like what we do & want to see us keep doing it, please consider becoming a Ranch Hand or checking out our GiveSendGo campaign, so we can keep making videos AND SO MUCH MORE.
Support Us By Becoming A Ranch Hand:
/ motorhomerehabranch
Support Us On GiveSendGo:
www.givesendgo...
Amazon Wish List:
www.amazon.com...
PayPal:
www.paypal.com...
I would use plywood and extruded polystyrene foam sheeting (XPS foam board) combined. You'll have more strength than you could ever need and an extremely efficient conductive heat insulator to keep the cabin area cool. The compressive strength of the XPS foam board is amazing. You can get it up to a compressive strength of 100 psi. I would use it on the entire floor of the rig as you won't need framing on the floor when using it. No framing means no thermal bridging. No thermal bridging means no condensation problems. Radiant barriers do little for the conductive transfer of heat. They are very effective at blocking heat being transferred through the atmosphere (like the sun's rays) but once you sandwich it up against other materials, it acts more like a conductor than an insulator. Save that stuff for blocking the windows during the heat of the day. I also noticed in the side walls of the rig you were in there is exposed framing on the interior. If you attach your interior panels directly to metal framing on any wall, floor or ceiling you will have problems with condensation in your walls. Wheel wells also need to be protected. I would use closed-cell spray foam insulation on the interior walls and ceiling. It will give you the best "R-value" with no need for a vapor barrier. When done professionally by an experienced installer it is safe to use. Great looking rigs in that shop. Love those GMC's.
I used cork--underrated!
Jim
I am putting down Hushmat. Similar to Dynamat but is said to reduce heat transfer by 40%. I applied this to the dash wall, the side panels and cab floor. It will also provide a moisture barrier if water comes in the window.
A couple of comments on the step. I removed the aluminum tab. It has no purpose and if you want to put flooring on the step it is easier without it. Second, I even the steps so they are both equal. Originally the first steps were 9” and 11”. I added a 2nd layer of plywood to have both steps have the same rise.
Jim thank you
The Apollo Lunar Module decent stage was covered in layers of gold colored Mylar film. Mylar is a good insulator and light weight so multiple layers can be used.
We drove from southern Michigan to Dayton Ohio on new years and my feet got cold.
They use neoprene to insulate prevost conversions. I wonder if it would make a good carpet underpadding.
Jim - do you ever line the engine side of the plywood directly above and behind the engine with stainless steel for heat and fire protection?
in canada, i think i'm more concerned about the freezing winters. i need a good insulation in the floor, walls and ceiling.
I need those foot mat pieces. Out of the three coaches they don’t have one set.
"It's not a big deal..." once you have gotten to that point by disassembling the cockpit, removing the chairs and mounts, getting the old stuff out and crafting replacements. Been there, done that but I don't have the experience to consider it not a big deal.
what is the product name for the floor insulation called?