You know whats weird? I randomly play LMR videos just for sound. hearing it over and over really expands my knowledge and J Mac has a good voice for videos
It’s amazing how far LMR videos have come. I was taking a look through old install videos and now that I’m watching this. Great job guys. Next up you should show us how to install a roots style blower on a 05-10 mustang
When getting off the fly wheel bolts, I found that using a bolt on the fly wheel and a bolt in the bell housing bolt hole(bell housing is off), and then attaching a carabiner to both is the safest and most effective way to hold the fly wheel in place. You can then use both hands to remove the fly wheel bolts and hold the fly wheel when ready.
Really appreciate this video so much you have no idea, just blew out my 2nd gear in my 02 mustang gt and im a college student with a college budget so buying the parts is almost impossible so having it all installed isnt even in the question! Glad to say I hit subscribe the second this video was finished, I really appreciate it, nice video easy to follow showed everything plain and simple good quality, I'll surely recommend your channel to anyone into older cars like me. Thanks!
you can also pack the pilot bearing with grease and force it out hydraulically by taking the end of the centering tool, taking the handle off and giving it a couple of hits with a rubber mallet. I use an old input shaft now. works just as well.
A tip when putting the transmission back in. I had trouble and it kept trying to undo the throw out bearing. The solution? While trying to align the transmission have someone push the clutch in. This will grab the transmission and slide it in enough to tighten the bolts. Once the bolts are in you can tighten as recommended
Thanks for the feedback. This is a real ACS Mclaren that belongs to one of our employees - Uncle Ted. I'm sure you will see more of this car somewhere down the road. Be sure to share your favorite tech videos on social media!
Nevermind! There's no way I can do this alone! Gotta get a pro! 😥 Thx for showing me that I was about to bite off Waaaay more than I can chew! The charge for this procedure is well warranted now that I see what all is involved! 😦😯 Thx again, y'all! Much Respect 🤘⚜
Jesus this guy just wants you to spend hella money and replace everything, if your adjustable cable feels weird then replace it..... Hell no just adjust it
The guy is smart it blows my mind how many people just want to replace the bare minimum all the time and wonder why their car is unreliable every vehicle I own has 100k to 500k and although I do work from time to time on them all I've never ever been stranded because I do just like this guy when I do a job I do it right all those parts he mentioned are wear items and if they lasted 30 years then your very blessed but really an extra couple hundred bucks is much cheaper than pulling the transmission again just to replace a failed clutch for or 6 dollar pilot bearing.. Just do it right and you will never kill your Ford
Thank you for the video. It’s very very helpful to have. One of a kind. It can make people who have been working on their mustangs actually be able to keep track of every bolt needed as we all know they can get lost over time.
Just got all that installed but I paid a shop. Snaps could have done it myself. And I see there was no need to drain the transmission either. O well. I have to redo my rear drum brakes but I will attempt to tackle that one myself.
Yes, on many of the SN95 models you will have to take the transmission and bellhousing in one piece. There are some minor differences across all transmissions you will remove; however, the clutch installation itself is the same across all models.
Is the driveshaft orientation that important? I realized that I never marked the driveshaft before removing it and its way too late now because its sitting in my garage...
Just got my clutch replace and there's now a weird vibration in the car at idle. The clutch pedal also feels rough/gritty when depressing it. The car idle and pedal was butter smooth before install. What could be the issue?
Could be because the new clutch has more material on it than before. As in if your clutch cable was in the same position as it was before the installation, your new clutch may be partially engaging. Did you try adjusting the cable?
What you need to know he does not tell you! He has good information but does not tell you what you could overlook and cause you to blow your transmission. 1. Each crankshaft has a hole in rear for the pilot. Each crank has it own diameter bore which has a tolerance for the pilot bearing. The outside diameter has to be slightly larger by a few thousandths to fit tight. The inside diameter of the pilot bearing being too wide or too much in diameter will let the main shaft in the transmission wobble up and down if it does not fit tight to the mainshaft of the transmission given about ..003 at the max. Example: Dorman bearing: I.D. .680, MR52 and most of the Mustangs carry the .699 mainshaft. If you install the .680 onto that .699 shaft you will get out of balance due to a clutch disc rocking when you clutch it at any r.p.m. which will cause the shaft to wear on both ends and ruin the pilot also. Many companies will not give you the inside diameter or lie to you and you will install the wrong one. Check with Ford on the spec of your crankshaft and see for yourself. Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto conflicts on their applications selling different bearing specs. for the same engine, especially the 1989 Ford 5.0. The pilot hole outside diameter in my 1989 Ford 5.0 is 1.3689 and Dorman 14677 has their outside diameter at 1.378 which will be .0091 given me about 9 over, 4.5 on each side which will fit ok. But, the inside is too big at .680 on the Dorman 14677 and the Dorman 690-083-1 is alluded to be .0672 which is right to fit the .699 but Dorman sells it under part number 14677 which on the back of that pack it clearly states it is .680 causing the main shaft to wobble like hell and screw up trannys. Now, people, You have a better education on tolerances vs. what these companies sell. I just got one in from Pioneer which the box states that it was made for my 89 5.0, but when i checked the inside diameter it was .695 ---.669 to .695 is enough to screw up my 2000 dollar trans fix. O'reilly did not know the difference, but only sells the part, auto zone claimed they were the same but when i could show them the spec in front of their face all they could say was duh , i don't know. Advance said the same, and is selling a bearing that is 1.45 inch diameter for the bearing that goes into a 1.369 crank. Can you imagine beating that into the end of your crank? That bearing is National® - Clutch Pilot Bearing Part Number: FC65662 Line: BCA 1 year limited warranty UPC: 724956003792 Needle Bearing Detailed Description A full line of premium oil seals and bearings Premium bearing design matches OEM specifications Precision manufactured using premium steel grades for outstanding durability and performance Available in both caged design and full complement
Additional Details Bore (In): 0.6733 Inch Bore (mm): 17.102mm Outside Diameter (In): 1.450 Inch Outside Diameter (mm): 36.83mm Width (In): 0.670 Inch Width (mm): 17.018mm I give up. Ford motor company technicians do not or cannot tell you the exact factory diameter of their end crank bore for the 5.0 neither have i seen it anywhere on any forum or site to explain it like i have. So, go blow your trans, disc, bearings, gearns and don't forget the pilot!
I have a 2001 GT Mustang 4.6 I wonder what it's the size of my clutch disc I look in the internet and I found different sizes 10" 10.5" 11" and I don't know what size it's better for my GT
I'm replacing the flywheel and clutch and it got it all back together, but when I go to put my transmission back on, it won't go all the way into the bearing. Please help.
Great video! Love seeing some of these stock(ish) rebuilds. Also on an era of car you haven't had in the shop before. You should do this one back mostly stock with interior/exterior pieces and do videos like the red car and put the videos up...if it is yours to wrench on! :D
I have a 87 mustang gt 5.0 and need help on taking apart the transmission.I need to change the Countershaft gear First speed gear Sicerenizers and bearings. Think you guys could post a video?
watched this many times, thanks....installed everything new, pivot, fltwheel, clutch pack, transmission. ..the fork is bottoming out on the bellhousing, thoughts?
Get them from the top...you can reach em quite easily....you just cant see them...gotta use the force luke....i do all my chevys this way too....the top and 2 top side bolts....to heck with making up 3 feet of extensions to reach
Loving these how-to videos, watching every one I can even if I don't have that particular year model. Please keep up the good work and keep the videos coming. I'm learning a lot (and getting the confidence to tackle bigger jobs on my GT). Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback. Depending on the clutch manufacturer, break-in periods can differ. Most manufacturers state responsible driving for a couple hundred miles for proper break-in. -Landan
Can somebody tell me how hard this is to do (or differences) on the 2008 v8 mustang, since it has a hydraulic clutch? I have rebuilt clutches on motorcycles, never on a car with a hydraulic clutch.
Wow, I have to say You guys have done so many videos and have shown many people different or even just ways to complete certain jobs , and as much as I do appreciate helping people I sure have to say , Id think you'd like to be way more professional in the fact of cleanliness . I mean Damn dude my grandfather taught me at a very young age not to half ass a job and I sure have to say thats a lot of confidence you have just shoving a transmission that looks like its a demolition derby runner up car at the most ! Take your time next time and clean that crap , for either you or the next poor guy that gets under there to replace it again in 500 miles !
I have an 87 5.0 302 ho. I bought a fly wheel with a 50 Oz damping weight welded on it. Where should that 50 Oz weight be when the motor is at top dead center. I hear if the rotating assembly is not balanced it is bad for the engine.
Dumb question for you guys: Is it possible to replace the throw out bearing without dropping the gearbox? Mine started rattling recently, and I'd love to avoid trying to go through the whole process if I can avoid it. Many thanks!
Great video, guys. I'm halfway through doing the clutch on my '89 LX 5.0 and this is what gave me the confidence to attempt it. I'm a little stumped over the pilot bearing, though. I found the slide hammer too you used, and it did what it was supposed to do when it comes to removing the center part of the bearing. However, there is very little for it to grab onto and I can't get the rest of the bearing out. Any ideas?
Is there any trick for removing the plastic alignment shaft and sliding in the input shaft to keep everything lined up right? You kind of skipped over what I thought would be the critical part. Everybody keeps telling me "the alignment is the hard part" my dad (who likes to make up mechanical facts) was going on about the alignment too, but I only see one possible way it could be aligned. To be fair, he probably never changed a clutch before tho and I feel like most "car people" just regurgitate what they hear online and they actually don't know LOL I did have to rotate the clutch housing to get it to line up with the dowel pin and bolt holes, but a kindergartener should have that level of matching skills lol. My new transmission jack should be here next week (just in time for more snow) so I guess I'll have to wait a little longer to see what everybody means.
hey fantastic work and great video. I may do this in the future. Question! Can you guys do a video on how to remove and install a new transmission tailshaft bushing?!? I am very afraid of this. I replaced my rear seal on the tailshaft, but found out that I am exceeding the OEM limits on driveshaft movement (up/down wiggle). I looked at the yoke and realized that it was pretty worn down also...(smoothly though no scoring). How am I looking you think?? Thanks guys! 1989 5.0 GT with T5
Wait really I've been wondering what i needed to upgrade to a 10.5 couch and they're easier to find I'm already switching my test end to an 88 w/3.27s so many sites kept saying i needed to change the flywheel that's crazy
Have an 87 LX with pivot ball stud issues and I've seen this video so many times... It almost looks too easy... Got me gathering all parts as ill be replacing the stud,fork,clutch kit,cable and will be adding a firewall adjuster. Can i use the asjuster with an non adjustable cable? Anything else i might be forgetting? Thanks in advance and thanks for the great walkthrough. And sorry for the noob questions. Subscribed!
FYI original transmission was probably from a v6 car had a much smaller pilot bearing on the end of the input shaft, are the Bell housings for a v6 nd v8 the same ??
I have a 1977 fastback and the clutch has been changed and flywheel resurfaced but the pedal is extremely hard to press !! any thoughts or help would be very appreciated
I have a t5 out of an 84 mustang going into my 91 now I've already bought the flywheel and clutch kit what else should I get to know everything will fit right?
I just got stranded today with my stang, I was trying to get on it a little on the highway before I got home and now i have no clutch action anymore. Every gear is like neutral lol :( Gonna have to tear into it this week and see what went wrong. Sigh
Here is our offering for 79-93 Fox Mustangs: lmr.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Bell-Housing-And-Spacer-Plate Let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks! -Landan
I have a Ford Mustang 1991 5.0 and the transmission has 4 gears but it's not giving me the 3rd and the 4th The car sounds like once it does 1s gear 2nd gear the car suddenly sounds like if it went nuteral and it doesn't go anymore faster because it sounds like if it had no 3rd gear or 4 gear I Changed my speed sensor and nothing..." It's an automatic transmission
My fly wheeel just got smoked i have a feeling ive been replacing starters every year for 4 years lol it was the original one since i bought the car 4 years ago lol. I think my flywheel is toast.....
when pulling the transmission off the bell housing, i was only able to get it about 3/4" apart, then it got stuck. it looks like the throwout bearing is messed up pretty bad, and it seems stuck on the transmission shaft (every time i move the transmission, the clutch fork moves as well). do you have any tips to remedy this and get the transmission out? thanks
So a while back we did a clutch job in my garage we replaced the fly wheel and pressure plate and clutch and crossmember. But ever since then my car has had a horrible vibration anyone know why its only at like 70 and its not rpm dependent its only speed dependent
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.6 (2/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GgeGQOP10RQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Take a look at your sandwich, if it’s been awhile since you made it. Better go ahead and replace it
Lol that was rich
Man that comments really got me rolling lol
Right!
You know whats weird? I randomly play LMR videos just for sound. hearing it over and over really expands my knowledge and J Mac has a good voice for videos
Haven't done a Mustang clutch in a while and I forgot how easy they are to replace. Thanks for the video, needed this to refresh my memory.
and don't forget to reconnect your battery!
😂😂
ive no idea about cars or clutches, but this is just great to watch anyway
Thank you for the kind words!!!
That's a lot of work. Mechanics got it tough.
It’s amazing how far LMR videos have come. I was taking a look through old install videos and now that I’m watching this. Great job guys. Next up you should show us how to install a roots style blower on a 05-10 mustang
Thank you for the kind words, please let us know if you ever need anything!
Just watched this 18 times to replace my throw out bearing. Thanks again for the videos guys. So helpful.
Glad we could help!!
was it hard?
When getting off the fly wheel bolts, I found that using a bolt on the fly wheel and a bolt in the bell housing bolt hole(bell housing is off), and then attaching a carabiner to both is the safest and most effective way to hold the fly wheel in place. You can then use both hands to remove the fly wheel bolts and hold the fly wheel when ready.
This is a fantastic video. LMR. You are a gem to our community thank you, so much!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the feedback.
These videos have literally saved my ass over and over again !! Thanks again !!
Clear, concise, well scripted and edited. Thanks for the help.
Really appreciate this video so much you have no idea, just blew out my 2nd gear in my 02 mustang gt and im a college student with a college budget so buying the parts is almost impossible so having it all installed isnt even in the question! Glad to say I hit subscribe the second this video was finished, I really appreciate it, nice video easy to follow showed everything plain and simple good quality, I'll surely recommend your channel to anyone into older cars like me. Thanks!
Ace E. Thank you that means so much!!
Late Model Restoration how do you remove a stock clutch cable ??
you can also pack the pilot bearing with grease and force it out hydraulically by taking the end of the centering tool, taking the handle off and giving it a couple of hits with a rubber mallet. I use an old input shaft now. works just as well.
A tip when putting the transmission back in. I had trouble and it kept trying to undo the throw out bearing. The solution? While trying to align the transmission have someone push the clutch in. This will grab the transmission and slide it in enough to tighten the bolts. Once the bolts are in you can tighten as recommended
Thanks for the feedback. This is a real ACS Mclaren that belongs to one of our employees - Uncle Ted. I'm sure you will see more of this car somewhere down the road. Be sure to share your favorite tech videos on social media!
Damn that’s easier than I’m used to, just passed up on a nice 86 5.0 that needed this work done.
Sweet Jesus,just did this to my '93 F150 and wish it was as easy as they say
This video just inspired me to become a Mechanical Engineer. TTU here I come.
We will! Thanks for watching!
Nevermind! There's no way I can do this alone! Gotta get a pro! 😥 Thx for showing me that I was about to bite off Waaaay more than I can chew! The charge for this procedure is well warranted now that I see what all is involved! 😦😯 Thx again, y'all! Much Respect 🤘⚜
PoyZun Iv man that’s soft... just pay ur way??? Y not just take pride in ur ride and learn to b ur own mechanic?
Thanks! Hope you guys find it helpful.
Jesus this guy just wants you to spend hella money and replace everything, if your adjustable cable feels weird then replace it..... Hell no just adjust it
Pretty sure he means if it feels like its binding, if it feels like it's not sliding through the sleeve smoothly.
2001 here... I here ya'...
I mean if you want to go back and redo it that's up to you...
The guy is smart it blows my mind how many people just want to replace the bare minimum all the time and wonder why their car is unreliable every vehicle I own has 100k to 500k and although I do work from time to time on them all I've never ever been stranded because I do just like this guy when I do a job I do it right all those parts he mentioned are wear items and if they lasted 30 years then your very blessed but really an extra couple hundred bucks is much cheaper than pulling the transmission again just to replace a failed clutch for or 6 dollar pilot bearing.. Just do it right and you will never kill your Ford
Eh just replace it, that crap ain't worth getting stranded over. The headache/towing/ STILL having to replacing it just aint worth it.
Thank you for the video. It’s very very helpful to have. One of a kind. It can make people who have been working on their mustangs actually be able to keep track of every bolt needed as we all know they can get lost over time.
Hello
It is our pleasure to help our Mustang Community.
Thanks!!! We just hope our videos help!
Thanks for the suggestions!!
Thanks!! You guys should do a video on the rear drums to disc brake kits. Seems like a lot.
Just got all that installed but I paid a shop. Snaps could have done it myself. And I see there was no need to drain the transmission either. O well. I have to redo my rear drum brakes but I will attempt to tackle that one myself.
what kind of grease was used?
Love this video just makes you want to do it as soon as the video ends thanks for the video bro keep it up
these guys are awesome..
Now if I only had the money to get what I need for my foxbody.. lol
Don't forget the T-45 crowd. That bell housing does not separate from the gearbox.
Yes, on many of the SN95 models you will have to take the transmission and bellhousing in one piece. There are some minor differences across all transmissions you will remove; however, the clutch installation itself is the same across all models.
Very nice video. Thank you for the education.
Love these videos!
This was the video u guys needed,great vid. Wow ACS Mclaren.
How high will I need to raise my SN95 so I can slide the trans out?
Is the driveshaft orientation that important? I realized that I never marked the driveshaft before removing it and its way too late now because its sitting in my garage...
It will only go in right, or off by 180° when you put it back together, if it isn't just right, it'll feel way off
Just got my clutch replace and there's now a weird vibration in the car at idle. The clutch pedal also feels rough/gritty when depressing it. The car idle and pedal was butter smooth before install. What could be the issue?
Could be because the new clutch has more material on it than before. As in if your clutch cable was in the same position as it was before the installation, your new clutch may be partially engaging. Did you try adjusting the cable?
What you need to know he does not tell you! He has good information but does not tell you what you could overlook and cause you to blow your transmission. 1. Each crankshaft has a hole in rear for the pilot. Each crank has it own diameter bore which has a tolerance for the pilot bearing. The outside diameter has to be slightly larger by a few thousandths to fit tight. The inside diameter of the pilot bearing being too wide or too much in diameter will let the main shaft in the transmission wobble up and down if it does not fit tight to the mainshaft of the transmission given about ..003 at the max. Example: Dorman bearing: I.D. .680, MR52 and most of the Mustangs carry the .699 mainshaft. If you install the .680 onto that .699 shaft you will get out of balance due to a clutch disc rocking when you clutch it at any r.p.m. which will cause the shaft to wear on both ends and ruin the pilot also. Many companies will not give you the inside diameter or lie to you and you will install the wrong one. Check with Ford on the spec of your crankshaft and see for yourself. Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto conflicts on their applications selling different bearing specs. for the same engine, especially the 1989 Ford 5.0. The pilot hole outside diameter in my 1989 Ford 5.0 is 1.3689 and Dorman 14677 has their outside diameter at 1.378 which will be .0091 given me about 9 over, 4.5 on each side which will fit ok. But, the inside is too big at .680 on the Dorman 14677 and the Dorman 690-083-1 is alluded to be .0672 which is right to fit the .699 but Dorman sells it under part number 14677 which on the back of that pack it clearly states it is .680 causing the main shaft to wobble like hell and screw up trannys. Now, people, You have a better education on tolerances vs. what these companies sell. I just got one in from Pioneer which the box states that it was made for my 89 5.0, but when i checked the inside diameter it was .695 ---.669 to .695 is enough to screw up my 2000 dollar trans fix. O'reilly did not know the difference, but only sells the part, auto zone claimed they were the same but when i could show them the spec in front of their face all they could say was duh , i don't know. Advance said the same, and is selling a bearing that is 1.45 inch diameter for the bearing that goes into a 1.369 crank. Can you imagine beating that into the end of your crank? That bearing is National® - Clutch Pilot Bearing
Part Number: FC65662
Line: BCA
1 year limited warranty
UPC: 724956003792
Needle Bearing
Detailed Description
A full line of premium oil seals and bearings Premium bearing design matches OEM specifications Precision manufactured using premium steel grades for outstanding durability and performance Available in both caged design and full complement
Additional Details
Bore (In): 0.6733 Inch
Bore (mm): 17.102mm
Outside Diameter (In): 1.450 Inch
Outside Diameter (mm): 36.83mm
Width (In): 0.670 Inch
Width (mm): 17.018mm
I give up. Ford motor company technicians do not or cannot tell you the exact factory diameter of their end crank bore for the 5.0 neither have i seen it anywhere on any forum or site to explain it like i have. So, go blow your trans, disc, bearings, gearns and don't forget the pilot!
Your on late model restorations video.
Go to their website and get a ford performance pilot bearing. Boom. Done.
I have a 2001 GT Mustang 4.6 I wonder what it's the size of my clutch disc I look in the internet and I found different sizes 10" 10.5" 11" and I don't know what size it's better for my GT
I'm replacing the flywheel and clutch and it got it all back together, but when I go to put my transmission back on, it won't go all the way into the bearing. Please help.
Great video! Love seeing some of these stock(ish) rebuilds. Also on an era of car you haven't had in the shop before. You should do this one back mostly stock with interior/exterior pieces and do videos like the red car and put the videos up...if it is yours to wrench on! :D
Well.... possible pan gasket and rear main forsure. Let's pull engine instead of laying under car and pulling transmission. Hoist would be nice
Well done. Thank you.
I wasn't able to use my 85 flywheel with a 86 and up clutch. The bolt pattern wasn't the same. So I picked up a new flywheel.
I have a 87 mustang gt 5.0 and need help on taking apart the transmission.I need to change the
Countershaft gear
First speed gear
Sicerenizers and bearings.
Think you guys could post a video?
So what about the T45/TR3650 guys? No removable bellhousing. At best this a 79-95 video
V6 mustang's after 95 still have a t5, so no it's not.
Should do the $2459.99 priced SVE 5-lug conversion kit video.
watched this many times, thanks....installed everything new, pivot, fltwheel, clutch pack, transmission. ..the fork is bottoming out on the bellhousing, thoughts?
BTW I imagine this is obvious. But when replacing the rear main seal I assume that you need to drain the oil?
Great job
I'm having a tough time getting the 2 upper transmission to bell housing bolts out. I just don't know how to get to them.
Get them from the top...you can reach em quite easily....you just cant see them...gotta use the force luke....i do all my chevys this way too....the top and 2 top side bolts....to heck with making up 3 feet of extensions to reach
Loving these how-to videos, watching every one I can even if I don't have that particular year model. Please keep up the good work and keep the videos coming. I'm learning a lot (and getting the confidence to tackle bigger jobs on my GT). Thanks!
speedycpu Thanks for a comments. We will have plenty more videos in the future.
I’m trying to remove my stock clutch cable but it won’t get loose off the fork. How do I get it loose?
This was a great video! What is the recommended break in period?
Thanks for the feedback. Depending on the clutch manufacturer, break-in periods can differ. Most manufacturers state responsible driving for a couple hundred miles for proper break-in. -Landan
Factory calls for Dex/Merc ATF in T5 World Class transmissions, which a stock '92 fox will have.
Can somebody tell me how hard this is to do (or differences) on the 2008 v8 mustang, since it has a hydraulic clutch? I have rebuilt clutches on motorcycles, never on a car with a hydraulic clutch.
Good video dude
Just wished lmr ship to the uk..
Thanks!
Wow, I have to say You guys have done so many videos and have shown many people different or even just ways to complete certain jobs , and as much as I do appreciate helping people I sure have to say , Id think you'd like to be way more professional in the fact of cleanliness . I mean Damn dude my grandfather taught me at a very young age not to half ass a job and I sure have to say thats a lot of confidence you have just shoving a transmission that looks like its a demolition derby runner up car at the most ! Take your time next time and clean that crap , for either you or the next poor guy that gets under there to replace it again in 500 miles !
Damm at 7:52 that sucker must have been tight
I have an 87 5.0 302 ho. I bought a fly wheel with a 50 Oz damping weight welded on it. Where should that 50 Oz weight be when the motor is at top dead center. I hear if the rotating assembly is not balanced it is bad for the engine.
Good luck finding a spacer plate for a '95 3.8 ltr
Who's in Baton Rouge trying to make some money holding my beer while I change my clutch?
Dumb question for you guys: Is it possible to replace the throw out bearing without dropping the gearbox? Mine started rattling recently, and I'd love to avoid trying to go through the whole process if I can avoid it. Many thanks!
Did you support the engine with an engine support bar, or is it not necessary?
Supporting the engine isn't necessary when replacing the clutch. -Landan
Great video, guys. I'm halfway through doing the clutch on my '89 LX 5.0 and this is what gave me the confidence to attempt it. I'm a little stumped over the pilot bearing, though. I found the slide hammer too you used, and it did what it was supposed to do when it comes to removing the center part of the bearing. However, there is very little for it to grab onto and I can't get the rest of the bearing out. Any ideas?
There is 2 small cut out grooves on the back of the pilot bearing for the fingers of the hammer tool end to go in🙏😇💪😎👍
I noticed that there is no return spring on the clutch fork. Is there supposed to be one there?
Replacing t5. Do I need or should I replace clutch. It was already done when bought car and feels fine.
That's completely up to you. If the disc looks good and everything else doesn't appear to have premature or excessive wear, I'd run it. -Landan
where did JMAC go? :/
Would I follow the same steps if i were installing a new transmission along with a new clutch?
Thanks for the video! It was very informative. Do you where to get a flywheel cover for a 89 2.3 mustang? Thanks
You're welcome! Thanks for the feedback. You may have to try eBay or make a post in a FB group of what you're looking for. -Landan
You guys are the best keep it up!
Is there any trick for removing the plastic alignment shaft and sliding in the input shaft to keep everything lined up right? You kind of skipped over what I thought would be the critical part. Everybody keeps telling me "the alignment is the hard part" my dad (who likes to make up mechanical facts) was going on about the alignment too, but I only see one possible way it could be aligned. To be fair, he probably never changed a clutch before tho and I feel like most "car people" just regurgitate what they hear online and they actually don't know LOL I did have to rotate the clutch housing to get it to line up with the dowel pin and bolt holes, but a kindergartener should have that level of matching skills lol. My new transmission jack should be here next week (just in time for more snow) so I guess I'll have to wait a little longer to see what everybody means.
hey fantastic work and great video. I may do this in the future. Question! Can you guys do a video on how to remove and install a new transmission tailshaft bushing?!? I am very afraid of this. I replaced my rear seal on the tailshaft, but found out that I am exceeding the OEM limits on driveshaft movement (up/down wiggle). I looked at the yoke and realized that it was pretty worn down also...(smoothly though no scoring). How am I looking you think?? Thanks guys! 1989 5.0 GT with T5
Wait really I've been wondering what i needed to upgrade to a 10.5 couch and they're easier to find I'm already switching my test end to an 88 w/3.27s so many sites kept saying i needed to change the flywheel that's crazy
We're glad the video was helpful for you. -Landan
Great video. Question, is the same for the sn95 v6 mustang?
Should the pressure plate cover touch flywheel when tight or would that be over tightening?
Have an 87 LX with pivot ball stud issues and I've seen this video so many times... It almost looks too easy... Got me gathering all parts as ill be replacing the stud,fork,clutch kit,cable and will be adding a firewall adjuster. Can i use the asjuster with an non adjustable cable? Anything else i might be forgetting? Thanks in advance and thanks for the great walkthrough. And sorry for the noob questions. Subscribed!
FYI original transmission was probably from a v6 car had a much smaller pilot bearing on the end of the input shaft, are the Bell housings for a v6 nd v8 the same ??
What kinda clutch cable was he talking about? The aluminum adjustable one? He called it someone else...????
You're probably thinking of either the aluminum quadrant that attaches to the clutch pedal assembly under the dash or the firewall adjuster. -Landan
What socket did you use for the flywheel
So your telling me that a 84 Windsor engine has the same measurement flywheel and clutch a 10 inch correct ?
I have a 1977 fastback and the clutch has been changed and flywheel resurfaced but the pedal is extremely hard to press !! any thoughts or help would be very appreciated
I'm assuming it's cable driven? If so, inspect the cable and verify that it isn't binding within the sheath. -Landan
I have a t5 out of an 84 mustang going into my 91 now I've already bought the flywheel and clutch kit what else should I get to know everything will fit right?
It would have been cool if you took the car out for a spin. Great vid by the way.
I noticed you pulled the transmission from the bell housing instead of leaving them together. Why did you do it this way?
Paul Fancett
it seems easier and a lot less weight to remove them separately,
It’s way easier to get to the top bolts on the bell housing
How tight should the cable be?
I just got stranded today with my stang, I was trying to get on it a little on the highway before I got home and now i have no clutch action anymore. Every gear is like neutral lol :(
Gonna have to tear into it this week and see what went wrong. Sigh
Is there not a need to grease the cable?
No, you don't need to grease the cable. It'll be fine without any.
Do you guys carry spacer plates? Having a hard time finding one.
Here is our offering for 79-93 Fox Mustangs: lmr.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Bell-Housing-And-Spacer-Plate
Let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks! -Landan
I have a Ford Mustang 1991 5.0 and the transmission has 4 gears but it's not giving me the 3rd and the 4th The car sounds like once it does 1s gear 2nd gear the car suddenly sounds like if it went nuteral and it doesn't go anymore faster because it sounds like if it had no 3rd gear or 4 gear I Changed my speed sensor and nothing..." It's an automatic transmission
Rudy Hernandez clutch packs could be burnt, a shift solenoid or you shift cable could be your problem..
Yup just take it to a shop 😂
My fly wheeel just got smoked i have a feeling ive been replacing starters every year for 4 years lol it was the original one since i bought the car 4 years ago lol. I think my flywheel is toast.....
when pulling the transmission off the bell housing, i was only able to get it about 3/4" apart, then it got stuck. it looks like the throwout bearing is messed up pretty bad, and it seems stuck on the transmission shaft (every time i move the transmission, the clutch fork moves as well). do you have any tips to remedy this and get the transmission out? thanks
+Kyle Cook take off the bell housing from the motor without removing the transmission first.
What lube for rear seal. Just oil outside?
I've always used fresh engine oil. Yes, just the outside is fine. Some folks also lubricate the inside. It all depends on the person. -Landan
do I really have to wait 500 miles to let it break in
Would I still be able to remove the transmission and the bell housing even if I have long tube headers still connected?
Hahaha, long tubes are a pain in the ass.
So a while back we did a clutch job in my garage we replaced the fly wheel and pressure plate and clutch and crossmember. But ever since then my car has had a horrible vibration anyone know why its only at like 70 and its not rpm dependent its only speed dependent
Check the drive shaft.