Yo. I was shocked when I opened up and worked on a long time customers new to them wood framed RV. Still don't have an idea the price difference between wood and aluminum framed, but I'd recommend aluminum even if it's twice the price. Ultimately a leak will eventually damage interior either way but the forces on a wood twig frame from driving and climate changes are bound to tweak the corner seals. The coverage from the corner seam trim is just wholly insufficient especially for the common corrugated aluminum siding panels. JFC do those wavy panels ends leave some serious gaps. The butel putty 'tape' is a great material in many regards and works amazing for flashing on standing seam metal roofs, but I'd think a flatter wider more flexible alternative would exist and be common place.
This has been so helpful. We are working on the same unit. Do you have a video of where the rollers go on the underside of the slide? The bottom of our walls fell out of ours so fast when we pulled the slide out we didn’t have time to take before photos and know we aren’t sure where they go as we put it all back together. Would love to see the final completed project. Thanks for your help!
Hi Cowboy, thanks for stopping by. What all work do you have to do on your camper? Also, I will see if I have some footage of the siding where I can throw together a video.
@@remodelyourrv well I have wildwood 27 bunk in fine condition I gonna replace the roof next week u maybe no gonna like my way but I gonna used ice shield all over the roof I’m a residential roofer myself and I know What a great material is ice shield But my issue is the back of the trailer 2 corners got rotten probably of the corners seal and here I need your help I'm afraid to do siding damage
Yep, you will have to tear into it and see how bad the damage is. If it's not bad you may be able to fix the leak, dry it out, and put it all back together.
@@remodelyourrv I’m currently trying to figure out what to use to replace the aluminum siding I had to remove from the back of my camper. Tearing off the old pieces did a number on the s channels where the staples attached to the camper framing. I don’t know that I can or should reuse it. Trying to figure out the cheapest alternative that is easily sourced. Proving difficult. I’m sure you will cover it in a future video, but what did you use? Thanks
Thanks for the comment. I mostly used lighter weight lumber like yellow pine, but in some areas I did use treated wood. Weight is a concern and overall, my goal was to keep it near the factory weight.
That's a good question that's above my pay grade. I have "heard" it can be corrosive to aluminum in some scenarios as well as it can off-gas to a degree. However, it is not settled among experts, and opinions are usually split down the middle with people on both sides parroting what they have "heard". Clear as mud...
I mean a jack to hold up the roof. The bottom plate the wall studs sit on is rotten on half of one side and so is the subfloor under it. 2009 Jayco. My friend is a contractor and recommended spraying for mold then once it dries using a chemical like epoxy to harden it or similar product to stop rot and make it hard. The rest of the walls and roof are good. How do you replace subfloor when it is under the walls and that’s rotten? 🥴
@@2369daisy I see. No, I did not. But, it sounds like your damage may be more extensive than mine. As far as the subfloor goes, I used a sawzall to cut any fasteners holding the subfloor down and then pulled out the rotten stuff. I then slid in the new subfloor if it spanned the entire width. Some places I merely replaced sections.
Bought a 1990 Fleetwood Prowler with major wood rot. Back passenger corner has collapsed 2", so the horizonal floor and vertical framing needs to be replaced. Trailer is 3 months to me and hoping to get started this winter on repairs. I've never done this kind of thing before and spent 2 months remodeling/painting the interior that now I'm wondering if it was wasted time - will I need to take out interior walls? I want to do most of this myself, but need a coach who can make sure I'm not making big mistakes. CAn anyone point me to someone? Live in Grand Coulee WA.
I really don't know anyone who could help in person. TH-cam may be your best bet. However, with enough patience and time I bet you can do it. I would bet there will have to be some disruption to the interior repairs. If you are replacing studs, etc., the wall finishes will be fastened to those studs and will have to be removed if you are making those repairs.
@@remodelyourrv I so appreciate your reply. Know you will laugh, but I"m a 70 year old single gal with her first ever trailer. Healthy, strong, intelligent and aptitude for construction. Not afraid to tackle this work, just apprehensive about what I"ll find and whether I'll do the right thing. A partner in crime at least gives me another set of eyes, hands, and perspective. Onward!
Is it really worth it ? I have a 42' Fleetwood been setting on 75 acres in the middle of nowhere West Virginia that belongs to me and I've been thinking about rebuilding this camper not quite as bad as the one you're working but is it really worth it how much time and money do you have in this RV but I'm sure it's completed now LOL
That's the million-dollar question. Ha. I have a lot more time than money invested into this project. Monetarily it wasn't that bad. The time investment would have been much better if I had not had to work in small chunks of time. I spent a lot of time and energy dragging and putting up tools.
WHAT A GREAT ACCOMPLISHMENT WHEN YOUR DONE!!....For me the amount of time and money it will take to polish that gem is more then I would take on!!..Rock on!!.. Looking foward too the progress!!..tougher than me my friend!!
They are worth fixing, but boy it’s a lot of work, and who cares about a little bit of weight just put less stuff in the camper when you go down the road
You shouldn’t use their measurements I’m replacing mine and I’m replacing it with stronger wood in more mold and mildew resistant wood so I have a stronger camper in the end. When you do it with the same thing they did it with a date with cheap as they can do it junk.
Capable... It so good to see folks that have the ability to for themselves...
A lot of pain, suffering, and lessons learned. Thanks for checking in!
It’s amazing how cheap they build them and charge for so much for them I done a few of them you’re doing a good job and right keep up the good work
I appreciate the encouragement. It is crazy how cheap the materials and build quality are. Especially, compared to the price.
Yo. I was shocked when I opened up and worked on a long time customers new to them wood framed RV. Still don't have an idea the price difference between wood and aluminum framed, but I'd recommend aluminum even if it's twice the price. Ultimately a leak will eventually damage interior either way but the forces on a wood twig frame from driving and climate changes are bound to tweak the corner seals. The coverage from the corner seam trim is just wholly insufficient especially for the common corrugated aluminum siding panels. JFC do those wavy panels ends leave some serious gaps. The butel putty 'tape' is a great material in many regards and works amazing for flashing on standing seam metal roofs, but I'd think a flatter wider more flexible alternative would exist and be common place.
GREAT WORK!GREAT VIDEO!THAT GIVES ME HOPE WITH MY MOTOR HOME.
Thanks for the note and good luck with your project.
Amazing, great job.
Thank you very much!
This has been so helpful. We are working on the same unit. Do you have a video of where the rollers go on the underside of the slide? The bottom of our walls fell out of ours so fast when we pulled the slide out we didn’t have time to take before photos and know we aren’t sure where they go as we put it all back together.
Would love to see the final completed project.
Thanks for your help!
If yours is the same model as ours, the rollers fit just inside the vertical braces which the slide glides on.
I like seal the new lumber with polyurethane or varnish before installing to prevent some future damage
Good idea!
Good Job.... I'm doing the same thing
You got this.
Do you have any suggestions to where I could find the “tin” inner wheel wells?
Awesome u give me a hope with my camper
Well done broski
If u can make some short one about siding take off and put back
Hi Cowboy, thanks for stopping by. What all work do you have to do on your camper? Also, I will see if I have some footage of the siding where I can throw together a video.
@@remodelyourrv well I have wildwood 27 bunk in fine condition
I gonna replace the roof next week u maybe no gonna like my way but I gonna used ice shield all over the roof
I’m a residential roofer myself and I know What a great material is ice shield
But my issue is the back of the trailer 2 corners got rotten probably of the corners seal and here I need your help
I'm afraid to do siding damage
Hey, I'm a fan of whatever works. I will give that product a look for sure. So, you think there is water damage in the walls at the back two corners?
@@remodelyourrv yes for sure I checked inside it was wet just the bottom corner
Yep, you will have to tear into it and see how bad the damage is. If it's not bad you may be able to fix the leak, dry it out, and put it all back together.
did you use pressure treated lumber
Will there be a video on how to put exterior back on and what materials you use.
Yes, there sure will.
@@remodelyourrv I’m currently trying to figure out what to use to replace the aluminum siding I had to remove from the back of my camper. Tearing off the old pieces did a number on the s channels where the staples attached to the camper framing. I don’t know that I can or should reuse it. Trying to figure out the cheapest alternative that is easily sourced. Proving difficult. I’m sure you will cover it in a future video, but what did you use? Thanks
Great vid man! What sort of wood should be used for the framing? I have an 86 Dolphin, not sure if weight is a concern
Thanks for the comment. I mostly used lighter weight lumber like yellow pine, but in some areas I did use treated wood. Weight is a concern and overall, my goal was to keep it near the factory weight.
What size lumber are you using for framing?
A lot of it is 2x2, but overall I tried to use the same size as whatever I was tearing out.
Any finished videos of this project??
I have the footage....I just need to edit and post.
Would it be dangerous to go all treated wood.
That's a good question that's above my pay grade. I have "heard" it can be corrosive to aluminum in some scenarios as well as it can off-gas to a degree. However, it is not settled among experts, and opinions are usually split down the middle with people on both sides parroting what they have "heard". Clear as mud...
So would a motor home be the same concept with the siding.. I own a 89 travler master .. with fiberglass siding
Hi Richard. That’s a really good question and I’m not sure I have the answer to it. How is the siding designed? Is it large pieces or strips?
Where are you located because I'm here in Dallas TX, are you near me if so would you rebuild my slide out unit and how much?
As slow as I am you wouldn't want me to do it. lol
Do you have to use stud jacks when replacing that bottom sill plate? I wish I could see a detailed video of that replacement. Any tip?
The only time i used a jack stud is if one was pre-existing. I tried to replicate the original framing.
I mean a jack to hold up the roof. The bottom plate the wall studs sit on is rotten on half of one side and so is the subfloor under it. 2009 Jayco. My friend is a contractor and recommended spraying for mold then once it dries using a chemical like epoxy to harden it or similar product to stop rot and make it hard. The rest of the walls and roof are good. How do you replace subfloor when it is under the walls and that’s rotten? 🥴
@@2369daisy I see. No, I did not. But, it sounds like your damage may be more extensive than mine. As far as the subfloor goes, I used a sawzall to cut any fasteners holding the subfloor down and then pulled out the rotten stuff. I then slid in the new subfloor if it spanned the entire width. Some places I merely replaced sections.
Bought a 1990 Fleetwood Prowler with major wood rot. Back passenger corner has collapsed 2", so the horizonal floor and vertical framing needs to be replaced. Trailer is 3 months to me and hoping to get started this winter on repairs. I've never done this kind of thing before and spent 2 months remodeling/painting the interior that now I'm wondering if it was wasted time - will I need to take out interior walls? I want to do most of this myself, but need a coach who can make sure I'm not making big mistakes. CAn anyone point me to someone? Live in Grand Coulee WA.
I really don't know anyone who could help in person. TH-cam may be your best bet. However, with enough patience and time I bet you can do it. I would bet there will have to be some disruption to the interior repairs. If you are replacing studs, etc., the wall finishes will be fastened to those studs and will have to be removed if you are making those repairs.
@@remodelyourrv I so appreciate your reply. Know you will laugh, but I"m a 70 year old single gal with her first ever trailer. Healthy, strong, intelligent and aptitude for construction. Not afraid to tackle this work, just apprehensive about what I"ll find and whether I'll do the right thing. A partner in crime at least gives me another set of eyes, hands, and perspective. Onward!
Is it really worth it ? I have a 42' Fleetwood been setting on 75 acres in the middle of nowhere West Virginia that belongs to me and I've been thinking about rebuilding this camper not quite as bad as the one you're working but is it really worth it how much time and money do you have in this RV but I'm sure it's completed now LOL
That's the million-dollar question. Ha. I have a lot more time than money invested into this project. Monetarily it wasn't that bad. The time investment would have been much better if I had not had to work in small chunks of time. I spent a lot of time and energy dragging and putting up tools.
WHAT A GREAT ACCOMPLISHMENT WHEN YOUR DONE!!....For me the amount of time and money it will take to polish that gem is more then I would take on!!..Rock on!!..
Looking foward too the progress!!..tougher than me my friend!!
@@kitkimbrough9441 Thanks! It was a time suck for sure.
What size is studs
If I recall (and I may be wrong) they were a weird size like a 2"x3"
They are worth fixing, but boy it’s a lot of work, and who cares about a little bit of weight just put less stuff in the camper when you go down the road
I totally agree. Thanks for watching.
Lol That couldn't be worse
I feel that!
You shouldn’t use their measurements I’m replacing mine and I’m replacing it with stronger wood in more mold and mildew resistant wood so I have a stronger camper in the end. When you do it with the same thing they did it with a date with cheap as they can do it junk.
They use junk, indeed.