Hi Rich - Your video was super helpful to me. I recently purchased an RV that had water damage near the front part of the slide which required me to remove the slide to repair the floor so the slide would sit level again and stop leaking. I copied your dolly and jack idea and it worked flawlessly for me! Thanks for making this content and sharing it with us!
HAD THE EXACT ISSUE TOOK IT TO TO THE SHOP. THE MORE THEY FIXED THE MORE THEY DAMAGED. 1 YEAR, 2 MONTHS and 7DAYS I finally got it back. Have yet to take it out for a shake down. But I'm sure it's NOT FIXED RIGHT!! I HAVE THE SAME SLIDEOUT TRACK. So I'm going to check out ur next video to see how u put it back and align it. COST ME PLENTY I assure u. But I didn't have access to a place that I could have worked on it. U were lucky. Have a BLESSED day.
Ok, this was pretty helpful. I have a 2005 Keystone Mountaineer. I want to pull the slide out so I can get some regular sized furniture in this thing that won't fit through the door.
And that ladies and gentlemen is why you buy a pull behind or 5th wheel with aluminum framing. We've bought two with wood frames and both turned out to be bad investments. We bought a 2008 Keystone Challnger with an all aluminum frame and haven't ran into a single problem with the structure of the 5th wheel.
Good luck! I hope all goes smoothly. Do an intensive wood inspections everywhere you can (if your not done already), you'll want to remove a slide out that large once.
Great job Rich,really good to see diy'ers taking on the fears of rv repairs and getting it done and done better ,love the new rollers way to upgrade buddy nice work and I look forward to seeing your next video
I just bought a kodiak off a guy amd the slide out has same rot in area yours did. Im going to do the same repair you did and thanks for the dolly idea. Im going to use pressure treared 2×4s just to make alittle stronger for that slide out weight. Thanks again Rich as thats my name as well
Thank you for your response .. I was outside just now and the bottom fell out ... thank goodness to your dolley ideal on casters I rolled the slide back in before the monsoons ... let it quit raining and I'll post my version pretty much like yours As for the camper .. I had it brought in for leak and my vynal has turned Colors... I ask about it and the response was .. we are not liable for the floors ...so here I am replacing out of my pocket .. this my last Forrest River and camper as much as we love it ... just can't trust manufacture anymore
When I first bought mine (used) I called my insurance company and asked if I needed any additional insurance. They (USAA) said no, the trailer was covered under the auto policy when being towed and under the home policy when parked since it is a "home". If your insurance is similar than you might wang to make a claim and let your insurance company go after the manufacturer. Good luck!
Just wanted to say thank you for your video ... 2013 306 V toyhauler Main slide was showing sign of wet carpet . Similar to what you are doing with slide .. mostly thank you for the ideal of the dolly as it was and Is a huge help .. at first I was nervous about sliding back since I had several issues .. on grass not drive way and sloping downhill .. So I made a dolly from 4x4 and had to make elevated tracks for my casters .. made sure slide was level then commenced ... it rolled back and forth .. yayyy meeee My feelings kinda hurt considered 80K unit with ruin floors and Forrest river won't honor from our first problem .. anyway thank you
Wow - it's a shame they won't repair or pay for the repair. I have read in RV magazines where a "letter to the editor" resulted in the magazine contacting the manufacturer direct...and pooof - they take care of it or meet you half way. For $80k a buyer should expect more. Post a picture of your dolly, you might help someone in your situation!
Troublesdiy - sorry I thought I had responded to this, but here is goes anyway: Believe it or not only two bolts hold the slide out on my Keystone. Both are found at the outer edge of the rail slides. I extended the slide out fully, positioned my dolly and added the wooden blocks and scissor jacks in place just snug enough to touch the bottom of the underside of the slide out. I then removed the only two bolts with socket set, the bolts came out easily. I then lifted the slide out until there was a noticeable clearance between the floor of the camper and the bottom of the slide out and simply rolled it out of the camper. I was expecting more holding the slide out in place but it just rested on the carpet inside, no rollers, no tracks, no guides....nothing. I would say there was more than 2 inches of clearance between the top of slide out and the camper opening at the top and 1.5 inches right and left. I have developed a new leak and will do a better job in the next video, Rich
Hi! On my Keystone there are two very visible bolts - only one on each of the arms that extend the slide. Here is what I suggest: extend your slide out, look underneath the slide at the outer wall where the arms (slide extension rails) attach. On mine there are just those two bolts believe it or not. On the trailer side of the slide out there is nothing attached - the wooden frame surrounding the dining area prevents the slide out from extending beyond the camper outer wall. If this doesn’t make sense feel free to send ma the make and model of your camper along with any photos to my email - richsettino@gmail.com.
Thanks for the great DIYS video . I do have a question or two though. You used pressure treated lumber for the temporary dolly but did not for the repair , why ? Also what did you use between the jacks and the slide out to protect the surface ? The video I saw showed the dolly, then the next frame the slide was out. It would have been nice to see how the jacks worked. Glad you could save some money and thanks again.
Brian. Thanks for the compliments. I used nonpressure treated lumber due to all the repair work and protection I put in place so I anticipate that lumber will stay dry. No issue using pressure treated though, it would have been extra insurance. The scissor jacks simply took the weight of the slide off the trailer. This was my first attempt at a video so I will admit it could have been better. Working alone it is a challenge.
I was surprised that the manufacturer didn't do a better job designing/building the slide out system. The water damage didn't happen overnight - It began the first day it left the factory. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
There's good information here, but missing nearly every question I have. which is: what trim allowed you to remove the slide out?. 2) did you power the slide out or disconnect off track? The real information got lost between prep and moving after disconnect... I have trim that I can't figure out how it get's removed and don't really want to remove the slide. Just slide it far enough to add new carpet.
Dan, on my Springdale by keystone only the trim surrounding the slide out dining room (inside) held the room in. The company used a pneumatic gun to shoot staple like nails which wasn’t hard to remove. I had to pry it and it came right off. I chose not to put it back because it was heavy and ugly in my opinion. Once that trim was all removed, and that was right, top center, and left (nothing on the bottom) I extended the room nearly all the way out being careful not to drop the slide out room off the end of the trailer. That’s where I used the dolly, wooden blocking materials and the jacks. Only after the room was sitting securely on the dolly did I disconnect the bolts connecting it to the mechanical slide out arms. If yours is designed like mine the rug is used to “slide” the room, there were no rollers installed. So you might be able to just lift the room up with the dolly idea. My slide out room has 2 1/2 inches of space all the way around. That might work and you can leave the trim alone.
@@richsettino5382 Sweet. That's exactly what I needed to know. I was looking for a bolted section or some fancy way of keeping the trim on, but after knowing your setup; it makes perfect sense. They only used staples in the construction of everything structure related. So it makes perfect sense. Thanks Rich.
In my case Keystone used it as a surface for the slide out to "slide" on since they didn't install rollers. The entire slide out sat on top of the carpet which served as a substitute for rollers - cheaper - faster - easy, just not the best solution.
Hey from kings mountain nc. I am hoping you can maybe help me out or point me in the right direction. I'm repairing my camper slide out. I bought the camper from my grandmother in New York and it had alot of water damage mostly in the slide out but other spots too. My issue is the water damage was so bad that I could scoop alot of the flooring in my hand mostly in the corner of the slide out. I'm going to repair and reframe now the issue I have is where the slide out meets the original body because I had to remove from and such I have a gap on one side and not as bad on the other I can push slide out out and no gap. Is there a frame this slide out should screw too or just the sheer weight holds it out. I can include pics thanks in advance
The slide out on this model does not have cables. There are two extendable steel tubes that are actuated by an electric motor. Once unbolted from the rails and raised on the dolly by jacks it simply rolled out of the camper.
Yes, there is one outlet in the slide out that connected under the outside bottom of the trailer to a plastic electrical box. I opened the box, unhooked the wires (disconnected from the shore cable of course). I ended up replacing the wires as they were a little chewed up.
If you have this level of repair skill...save yourself tens-of-thousands of dollars next time, and just build your own 40-ft out of a shipping container and a gooseneck flatbed! Serious...I ran the numbers on this a few years ago, and to grab a good used shipping container, you're looking at about $5,000. That gooseneck, used, will set you back about $6,000. To externally sheet the shipping container in .090 aluminum is another grand, to use 1x1 or even 1x2 steel tubing for inner wall stand-offs, as well as some steel 2x3's for ceiling and flooring reinforcements is another grand. Curtainwall the interior with 14-gauge 2x3's (steel), lay your preferred flooring and install your interior...total cost? About $20k for a 40-ft RV made of steel, NEVER WILL LEAK, and has 320-sq ft of living area. Mount your gray and black under the frame, fresh under your bed pedestal, and you're good to go...LIFETIME DURABILITY, never 'rebuild it again', renovate it when you want, and save MUCHO BUCKS by never having to replace it! WIsh I had thought of this YEARS ago! Water damage and broken, lightweight flooring ALONE make this project worthwhile!
Skeeter Saurus thanks for the compliment, I appreciate the kind words. I hadn’t thought about that but it makes sense to me. Certainly would add more room and a custom build out just the way I would want it. Once this one is a pile of dust I just might try your idea. Would require a new truck too, not a bad addition either.
That is a good idea but that is quite a lot. I got my 30 foot coachman with water damage for $1400. If currently gutted the interior and I’m now finding I have to remove the slide to replace the lower and upper beam😳sort of a big deal and now I know why I got it so cheap but once said and done I should only be about $4500 in. I plan to live out of it so I’m customizing the entire thing and doing away with a lot of things as I won’t be living off the grid. I will also be doing replacing the roof and doing away with the roof ac/floor heat and installing a mini split on the front bedroom wall and will mount the outdoor unit on the tongue. Going back with a regular fridge and a tankless electric water heater so the only gas I will have is the stove. Keeping that gas in case of power outages and what not.
Ugh, lesson learned. I'll never own another camper with a slide out ever again. Probably won't have another Keystone, either. Sure seems like most of these slide/water damage videos are on Keystones.
Not really just Keystone. The industry simply churns these things out as fast as they can be produced, in my case with little or no quality control. The result is serious water damage not only due to the leak but the affect of the leak on inferior building materials which turn to dust in a short period of time. Watch this video and observe the speed and lack of QC during the assembly process. Its quantity over quality for sure.
Yes, yes it was a can of worms. The slide out rot was unexpected and challenging. To adjust an old phrase - "A limited budget is the mother of invention."
FYI - Video below shows floor replacement without removing the slide out, using stilts attached to exterior walls of slide out. Just another idea. th-cam.com/video/ItckXrP8wa0/w-d-xo.html
in my future now.. just found rot from mice where they ate the osb and pissed all over. going to have to take mine out and well. i am just like you.. great idea and i will be stealing.. heck i even have 2 care lifts, but need that side rolling ability to pull it away.. my winter project
Your rot is coming from the poor seals manufacturers use at the corners of the camper where the aluminum sides meet. Taking off the trim and using eternabond tape to seal the corners before reinstalling the corners will keep it from rotting again.
Billy Masoner you are right, they did a poor job sealing. But they also installed the aluminum siding very short which, from my research, should have extended to the bottom edge of the side wall. It was barely touching the top of the molding strip. They just cut the piece short and there was no quality control to catch it.
Rich Settino yikes. That’s awful. I am currently restoring a 2000 Coachmen with a similar design to your rig. They at least used the J-edge aluminum at the bottom so it hooked underneath, my rot started under the door frame, and at the front passenger side corner due to those bad seals. It’s become a beast of a renovation, but like you, I like this kind of work. Once it’s finished I’ll put together a photo/video collage for TH-cam and tag you in it.
I have a 2004 Jayco 5th Wheel. I'm full time living. No problems. Thanks for the video I need to help a friend build dollies.
Hi Rich - Your video was super helpful to me. I recently purchased an RV that had water damage near the front part of the slide which required me to remove the slide to repair the floor so the slide would sit level again and stop leaking. I copied your dolly and jack idea and it worked flawlessly for me! Thanks for making this content and sharing it with us!
Awesome! That’s great to hear!
Thanks for this. I was able to rebuild my 13' long slide using this video!
HAD THE EXACT ISSUE TOOK IT TO TO THE SHOP. THE MORE THEY FIXED THE MORE THEY DAMAGED. 1 YEAR, 2 MONTHS and 7DAYS I finally got it back. Have yet to take it out for a shake down. But I'm sure it's NOT FIXED RIGHT!! I HAVE THE SAME SLIDEOUT TRACK. So I'm going to check out ur next video to see how u put it back and align it. COST ME PLENTY I assure u. But I didn't have access to a place that I could have worked on it. U were lucky. Have a BLESSED day.
Ok, this was pretty helpful. I have a 2005 Keystone Mountaineer. I want to pull the slide out so I can get some regular sized furniture in this thing that won't fit through the door.
And that ladies and gentlemen is why you buy a pull behind or 5th wheel with aluminum framing. We've bought two with wood frames and both turned out to be bad investments. We bought a 2008 Keystone Challnger with an all aluminum frame and haven't ran into a single problem with the structure of the 5th wheel.
Very impressive work. I have a 14ft slide I have to do this to.
Good luck! I hope all goes smoothly. Do an intensive wood inspections everywhere you can (if your not done already), you'll want to remove a slide out that large once.
Thanks for the tips. To lift mine I used a couple of pieces of 6x6 and a motorcycle/atv lift. Worked like a charm.
Great job Rich,really good to see diy'ers taking on the fears of rv repairs and getting it done and done better ,love the new rollers way to upgrade buddy nice work and I look forward to seeing your next video
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Nice Cribbing on rollers under the slide out Great idea
I just bought a kodiak off a guy amd the slide out has same rot in area yours did. Im going to do the same repair you did and thanks for the dolly idea. Im going to use pressure treared 2×4s just to make alittle stronger for that slide out weight. Thanks again Rich as thats my name as well
Rich great video thank you for making it. I will be following suit after watching how easy you made this look!!!
Thank you for your response ..
I was outside just now and the bottom fell out ... thank goodness to your dolley ideal on casters I rolled the slide back in before the monsoons ... let it quit raining and I'll post my version pretty much like yours
As for the camper .. I had it brought in for leak and my vynal has turned Colors... I ask about it and the response was .. we are not liable for the floors ...so here I am replacing out of my pocket ..
this my last Forrest River and camper as much as we love it ... just can't trust manufacture anymore
When I first bought mine (used) I called my insurance company and asked if I needed any additional insurance. They (USAA) said no, the trailer was covered under the auto policy when being towed and under the home policy when parked since it is a "home". If your insurance is similar than you might wang to make a claim and let your insurance company go after the manufacturer. Good luck!
How did it all work out?
Fantastic work you're doing there Rich. That kind of extensive RV DIY project is WAY above our pay grade! LOL
Thanks, just basic skills and the "will" to avoid paying $3 to $6K in repair costs.
pretty ingenious there! good work, thank you for sharing.
Just wanted to say thank you for your video ...
2013 306 V toyhauler
Main slide was showing sign of wet carpet .
Similar to what you are doing with slide ..
mostly thank you for the ideal of the dolly as it was and Is a huge help .. at first I was nervous about sliding back since I had several issues .. on grass not drive way and sloping downhill .. So I made a dolly from 4x4 and had to make elevated tracks for my casters .. made sure slide was level then commenced ... it rolled back and forth .. yayyy meeee
My feelings kinda hurt considered 80K unit with ruin floors and Forrest river won't honor from our first problem .. anyway thank you
Wow - it's a shame they won't repair or pay for the repair. I have read in RV magazines where a "letter to the editor" resulted in the magazine contacting the manufacturer direct...and pooof - they take care of it or meet you half way. For $80k a buyer should expect more. Post a picture of your dolly, you might help someone in your situation!
Genius, thanks for sharing. Good thinking with the CAT5 too.
Wish you would have showed the actual unbolding steps of the slide out. Thank you for the video
Troublesdiy - sorry I thought I had responded to this, but here is goes anyway: Believe it or not only two bolts hold the slide out on my Keystone. Both are found at the outer edge of the rail slides. I extended the slide out fully, positioned my dolly and added the wooden blocks and scissor jacks in place just snug enough to touch the bottom of the underside of the slide out. I then removed the only two bolts with socket set, the bolts came out easily. I then lifted the slide out until there was a noticeable clearance between the floor of the camper and the bottom of the slide out and simply rolled it out of the camper. I was expecting more holding the slide out in place but it just rested on the carpet inside, no rollers, no tracks, no guides....nothing. I would say there was more than 2 inches of clearance between the top of slide out and the camper opening at the top and 1.5 inches right and left. I have developed a new leak and will do a better job in the next video,
Rich
I know it has been a while since you posted this but I just saw it. I need to know exactly how to detach the slide, as in which bolts to remove.
Hi! On my Keystone there are two very visible bolts - only one on each of the arms that extend the slide. Here is what I suggest: extend your slide out, look underneath the slide at the outer wall where the arms (slide extension rails) attach. On mine there are just those two bolts believe it or not. On the trailer side of the slide out there is nothing attached - the wooden frame surrounding the dining area prevents the slide out from extending beyond the camper outer wall. If this doesn’t make sense feel free to send ma the make and model of your camper along with any photos to my email - richsettino@gmail.com.
Thanks for the great DIYS video . I do have a question or two though. You used pressure treated lumber for the temporary dolly but did not for the repair , why ? Also what did you use between the jacks and the slide out to protect the surface ? The video I saw showed the dolly, then the next frame the slide was out. It would have been nice to see how the jacks worked. Glad you could save some money and thanks again.
Brian. Thanks for the compliments. I used nonpressure treated lumber due to all the repair work and protection I put in place so I anticipate that lumber will stay dry. No issue using pressure treated though, it would have been extra insurance. The scissor jacks simply took the weight of the slide off the trailer. This was my first attempt at a video so I will admit it could have been better. Working alone it is a challenge.
@@richsettino5382 Thanks for the reply and you did great for a first timer!
Good job on the repairs rich. Bloody trailers are nothing other than a continuous work project if its left stored doors
I was surprised that the manufacturer didn't do a better job designing/building the slide out system. The water damage didn't happen overnight - It began the first day it left the factory. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Im wanting to remove the slide out as you have and put up a stationary floor in both living room and bedroom. I have two slides in my 94 fleetwood.
Be prepared for issues with wood condition issues, hope you escape those but be ready.
There's good information here, but missing nearly every question I have. which is: what trim allowed you to remove the slide out?. 2) did you power the slide out or disconnect off track?
The real information got lost between prep and moving after disconnect...
I have trim that I can't figure out how it get's removed and don't really want to remove the slide. Just slide it far enough to add new carpet.
Dan, on my Springdale by keystone only the trim surrounding the slide out dining room (inside) held the room in. The company used a pneumatic gun to shoot staple like nails which wasn’t hard to remove. I had to pry it and it came right off. I chose not to put it back because it was heavy and ugly in my opinion.
Once that trim was all removed, and that was right, top center, and left (nothing on the bottom) I extended the room nearly all the way out being careful not to drop the slide out room off the end of the trailer. That’s where I used the dolly, wooden blocking materials and the jacks. Only after the room was sitting securely on the dolly did I disconnect the bolts connecting it to the mechanical slide out arms. If yours is designed like mine the rug is used to “slide” the room, there were no rollers installed. So you might be able to just lift the room up with the dolly idea. My slide out room has 2 1/2 inches of space all the way around. That might work and you can leave the trim alone.
@@richsettino5382 Sweet. That's exactly what I needed to know. I was looking for a bolted section or some fancy way of keeping the trim on, but after knowing your setup; it makes perfect sense. They only used staples in the construction of everything structure related. So it makes perfect sense.
Thanks Rich.
dealing with the same thing in a 99 calss c jayco. i dont understand why they wrap the carpet under the pop out!?
In my case Keystone used it as a surface for the slide out to "slide" on since they didn't install rollers. The entire slide out sat on top of the carpet which served as a substitute for rollers - cheaper - faster - easy, just not the best solution.
Hey from kings mountain nc. I am hoping you can maybe help me out or point me in the right direction. I'm repairing my camper slide out. I bought the camper from my grandmother in New York and it had alot of water damage mostly in the slide out but other spots too. My issue is the water damage was so bad that I could scoop alot of the flooring in my hand mostly in the corner of the slide out. I'm going to repair and reframe now the issue I have is where the slide out meets the original body because I had to remove from and such I have a gap on one side and not as bad on the other I can push slide out out and no gap. Is there a frame this slide out should screw too or just the sheer weight holds it out. I can include pics thanks in advance
Hello, Maybe a picture would help. Feel free to send it to richsettino@gmail.com and I will be happy to help.
are the cables under pressure when you take them off? did you film taking out the slide?
The slide out on this model does not have cables. There are two extendable steel tubes that are actuated by an electric motor. Once unbolted from the rails and raised on the dolly by jacks it simply rolled out of the camper.
No electric un hooks?
Yes, there is one outlet in the slide out that connected under the outside bottom of the trailer to a plastic electrical box. I opened the box, unhooked the wires (disconnected from the shore cable of course). I ended up replacing the wires as they were a little chewed up.
If you have this level of repair skill...save yourself tens-of-thousands of dollars next time, and just build your own 40-ft out of a shipping container and a gooseneck flatbed! Serious...I ran the numbers on this a few years ago, and to grab a good used shipping container, you're looking at about $5,000. That gooseneck, used, will set you back about $6,000. To externally sheet the shipping container in .090 aluminum is another grand, to use 1x1 or even 1x2 steel tubing for inner wall stand-offs, as well as some steel 2x3's for ceiling and flooring reinforcements is another grand. Curtainwall the interior with 14-gauge 2x3's (steel), lay your preferred flooring and install your interior...total cost? About $20k for a 40-ft RV made of steel, NEVER WILL LEAK, and has 320-sq ft of living area. Mount your gray and black under the frame, fresh under your bed pedestal, and you're good to go...LIFETIME DURABILITY, never 'rebuild it again', renovate it when you want, and save MUCHO BUCKS by never having to replace it! WIsh I had thought of this YEARS ago! Water damage and broken, lightweight flooring ALONE make this project worthwhile!
Skeeter Saurus thanks for the compliment, I appreciate the kind words. I hadn’t thought about that but it makes sense to me. Certainly would add more room and a custom build out just the way I would want it. Once this one is a pile of dust I just might try your idea. Would require a new truck too, not a bad addition either.
That is a good idea but that is quite a lot. I got my 30 foot coachman with water damage for $1400. If currently gutted the interior and I’m now finding I have to remove the slide to replace the lower and upper beam😳sort of a big deal and now I know why I got it so cheap but once said and done I should only be about $4500 in. I plan to live out of it so I’m customizing the entire thing and doing away with a lot of things as I won’t be living off the grid. I will also be doing replacing the roof and doing away with the roof ac/floor heat and installing a mini split on the front bedroom wall and will mount the outdoor unit on the tongue. Going back with a regular fridge and a tankless electric water heater so the only gas I will have is the stove. Keeping that gas in case of power outages and what not.
I have to do this same thing man ole man even my roof on the slide out is bowed in
Ugh, lesson learned. I'll never own another camper with a slide out ever again. Probably won't have another Keystone, either. Sure seems like most of these slide/water damage videos are on Keystones.
Not really just Keystone. The industry simply churns these things out as fast as they can be produced, in my case with little or no quality control. The result is serious water damage not only due to the leak but the affect of the leak on inferior building materials which turn to dust in a short period of time. Watch this video and observe the speed and lack of QC during the assembly process. Its quantity over quality for sure.
This is 4 years ago so it's all past tense but i hope you blocked those casters while you were releasing those bolts
Michael - casters were the locking version. Maybe one wasn’t, but yes I had no intention of finding myself under an RV slide out!
@@richsettino5382 Yeah, I heard it in your narration later on but didn't take down the question.
can i ask you some questions sir
Absolutely. Send your email if you would like to communicate on that platform.
This requires real expertlevel to open a can of worms !
Yes, yes it was a can of worms. The slide out rot was unexpected and challenging. To adjust an old phrase - "A limited budget is the mother of invention."
FYI - Video below shows floor replacement without removing the slide out, using stilts attached to exterior walls of slide out. Just another idea. th-cam.com/video/ItckXrP8wa0/w-d-xo.html
in my future now.. just found rot from mice where they ate the osb and pissed all over. going to have to take mine out and well. i am just like you.. great idea and i will be stealing.. heck i even have 2 care lifts, but need that side rolling ability to pull it away.. my winter project
Good luck! Send any questions my way.
Your rot is coming from the poor seals manufacturers use at the corners of the camper where the aluminum sides meet. Taking off the trim and using eternabond tape to seal the corners before reinstalling the corners will keep it from rotting again.
Billy Masoner you are right, they did a poor job sealing. But they also installed the aluminum siding very short which, from my research, should have extended to the bottom edge of the side wall. It was barely touching the top of the molding strip. They just cut the piece short and there was no quality control to catch it.
Rich Settino yikes. That’s awful. I am currently restoring a 2000 Coachmen with a similar design to your rig. They at least used the J-edge aluminum at the bottom so it hooked underneath, my rot started under the door frame, and at the front passenger side corner due to those bad seals. It’s become a beast of a renovation, but like you, I like this kind of work. Once it’s finished I’ll put together a photo/video collage for TH-cam and tag you in it.
M
Complains about osb floor used by keystone....then doesn’t use pressure treated beams or plywood to repair....
Don’t judge. My water proofing is enough for the remaining life of the camper. This one has lasted longer than intended already.
RV’s are a pain! Always work to do to them & they’re made of cheap materials