I don’t even have a need for a Jag diff, but I couldn’t help watching this because you made it so interesting… you’d make a fantastic teacher, excellent work!
You can potentially just buy a shaft that is thr length you desire and because its u joint both ends you can just use the spline ends you know fit and just switch the shaft without lathe or cutting or welding or re balancing a shaft. We do that. No cutting .. no welding.. done with parts that are ment to be at the length from the start. Just saying. And as it goes for putting bigger wheels underneath it .. a offset wheel works with spacers. Just did it on a 88 xj6. Flushed the wheels to the fender and jammed 11 inch on the rears and 9 inche deep wheels on the front. Lowered 1.7 inch all the way . Rolled fenders and the hole shebang next to air bags. I will say the first time i was taking a jaguar spring out your video was actually the one that i saw first amd it made it so i understood i didn't need to waste time ordering the spring compressor kit and i had the stuff to do it. Im not trying to take the piss .saying about axles im just saying..
That's great. I did my top shafts a little differently, by making adapters to fit over the stub shafts, with an outer diameter to fit snugly into dom 2 inch tube, and plug welded the one end, and welded the other end all around. I think I will use your method on the next one though.
Hi there, Old post, hoping you notice this question. And thanks for this very detailed content. How do you determine the amount to be final length of the driveshafts and control arms to achieve a specific track width? My goal is to get to a 50" track width so I can stuff one of these under a 59 AH 100-6 for an EV conversion. It's a rescue pup from another conversion. The internet says that some Jags used that width for Gen 1, year 1 XKEs though I run into conflicts where some content shows the narrowest width ever available being 52". Glory to the internets perfect knowledge. Also, presuming I am shortening per your instructions, it sounds like you remove the same amount from the control arms as you do from the drive shafts. Surprises me, as I would expect geometry to demand a little more be removed form the drive shaft than the control arm. Bad thinking on my part or is the difference just negligible? Thanks in advance.
On relevant forums I read if you fabricate a heavier duty carrier there will be sufficient strength to not require the trailing arms. T-bucket rods use this method.
I don’t even have a need for a Jag diff, but I couldn’t help watching this because you made it so interesting… you’d make a fantastic teacher, excellent work!
This fellow is a genius, notching 90mm vs 24mm, then using the dowel method. Hats off to you sir.
Best instructional video I have seen. Done to last forever. You can't buy experience.
Great video. Any info on replacing radius arm with hein style rod end arm?
a hot rod with a shortened jag diff and all chrome plated = WOW and the twin schockers with coil springs ! makes my mouth water !
You are my hero George!
Thankyou so much.
I was just looking at a jag rear end for my '27 T and it is 4 inches too wide. You made this look easy!
You can potentially just buy a shaft that is thr length you desire and because its u joint both ends you can just use the spline ends you know fit and just switch the shaft without lathe or cutting or welding or re balancing a shaft.
We do that. No cutting .. no welding.. done with parts that are ment to be at the length from the start.
Just saying.
And as it goes for putting bigger wheels underneath it .. a offset wheel works with spacers. Just did it on a 88 xj6. Flushed the wheels to the fender and jammed 11 inch on the rears and 9 inche deep wheels on the front.
Lowered 1.7 inch all the way . Rolled fenders and the hole shebang next to air bags.
I will say the first time i was taking a jaguar spring out your video was actually the one that i saw first amd it made it so i understood i didn't need to waste time ordering the spring compressor kit and i had the stuff to do it.
Im not trying to take the piss .saying about axles im just saying..
A way to eazy... I did start thinking why din`t I get on to it for a long time!! Thanks.
This bloke knows his stuff. Simple and exact from years of experience.
Very interesting video excellent work kind regards to you
Very clever, I like the “V” idea, smart engineering
Excellent.
Brilliantly explained fitting techniques. Always picking up valuable tips and thanks for sharing your knowledge 👌
So good. Love this. Great tips. Only problem I have is I don't have a lathe. I know I who to look up now. Thanks George.
thanks for making these videos mate, good job on getting them up on to youtube. keep at it!
Thankyou George. Great video.
Hello, how can i get in contact with you. I'd like to get some lower arms shortened. thanks, Andrew.
That's great. I did my top shafts a little differently, by making adapters to fit over the stub shafts, with an outer diameter to fit snugly into dom 2 inch tube, and plug welded the one end, and welded the other end all around. I think I will use your method on the next one though.
A TRUE MASTER OF HIS TRADE!
Nice work, and nicely explained. Thanks.
Luv the Vids - always learn something everytime - look forward to the next one
Was this for a Dax Ac Cobra. As I'm just started to build one.
Thank you
thank YOU for the process my good man. i see more meat on tarmac soon.
Great video pleasure to watch and learn!👍
Hi there,
Old post, hoping you notice this question. And thanks for this very detailed content.
How do you determine the amount to be final length of the driveshafts and control arms to achieve a specific track width? My goal is to get to a 50" track width so I can stuff one of these under a 59 AH 100-6 for an EV conversion. It's a rescue pup from another conversion. The internet says that some Jags used that width for Gen 1, year 1 XKEs though I run into conflicts where some content shows the narrowest width ever available being 52". Glory to the internets perfect knowledge.
Also, presuming I am shortening per your instructions, it sounds like you remove the same amount from the control arms as you do from the drive shafts. Surprises me, as I would expect geometry to demand a little more be removed form the drive shaft than the control arm. Bad thinking on my part or is the difference just negligible?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
What about the trailing arm, what do you do to modify it
On relevant forums I read if you fabricate a heavier duty carrier there will be sufficient strength to not require the trailing arms. T-bucket rods use this method.
Whats the dimensions of the tubing for the driveshaft ?
Really useful thanks!!
You wouldn't be installing this in the Sigma, would you?
Why not add plug welds to the shaft instead of v's?
You wouldn't get 120mm of weld would you L
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