@7:50 Instead of doing all of that you can simply leave everything the way it is on the factory solenoid and make a small 10-12ga jumper to go from the battery cable post on the mini starter to the S post on the mini (sn95) starter, done.
Just got my 79, so far am on day 4 of fixing wires. Thought I was done after day 3 and then the solenoid decided it was a good time to get stuck. Now get to use your trick with the relay, thanks for the video
Great idea on what to do about wiring a solenoid / removing the old solenoid for a high torque mini starter. As far as the wiring nightmares when people wire in things wrong and left with trying to figure out why the wired things up that way. Great job figuring out the wire mess.
Yes...a local shop in British Columbia that specializes in foxbodies did that to mine. They deleted the old solenoid and did a relay system for a few items running off the solenoid such as electric fans, msd etc. I think they made a mount and installed a few relays inside the wheel well. (It was tucked as well)
Nice job 👍🏻, great information. I’ve got a Ht mini starter on my 351. I’m still running dual solenoids. I’ve been thinking about rewiring the starter. This helped me. Thanks 😊
Great vid. I too just tackled some electrical gremlins including the blue 20 gauge fusible link for the computer/eec relay. Keep up the awesome content 🦊👍🏼
@9:16 This is exactly how I do it, well I use a relay. I have a distribution post that the battery + goes to which supplies battery voltage to anything requiring it like the starter battery post & the 30 pin on the new starter relay. 85 goes to battery- key cranking to 86 and 87 goes to the S stud on the starter.
Great information aside from you calling the smaller gauge wires low voltage instead of low current. All the positive wires are 12 volts however, the smaller gauge wires carry less current not lower voltage. The electronics technician in me felt compelled to provide this correction.😉
I worked in low voltage for many years so sometimes when you talk in front of the camera you say stuff that comes naturally.. but yes you are correct 💯. Voltage doesn't kill, amperage does!
This may be a stupid question but does the type of relay or amp size of the relay matter? Great video! I have been wondering how I could clean up my starter solenoid. I have a similar setup and was about to put on a new high torque starter so definitely going to do this and get a 12v distribution block.
I had one hang up and kill three starters by the time I figured it out .I have an obs ford and did the door bell trick and at first assumed the doorbell stuck so I pulled it off and just left the two wire end until I got a new one .next day new starter it happened again so I thought maybe the wires casing rubbed a hole and were touching pulled the wire no holes .starter three I had the hood open and it happened again I smacked the solenoid because I finally figured it out starter unstuck and I realized the problem.
Added relay huh? Well, how about something easier. For a PMGR (mini) if you would think about it a bit, you could just get an older style starter solenoid (relay) that has FOUR terminals. Then 1) run the trigger wire from the "I" or ignition terminal, 2) put the start wire from the key on the "S" terminal. 3) leave the starter feed wire on its original terminal lug opposite the battery lug and 4) battery power as it was. SO, that way the battery wire is not constantly live and only gets voltage on start, and the trigger wire is instantly isolated from any PGMR feedback when you let go of the key, because the "I" terminal is wired that way. No extra anything and a lot easier, but don't let that stop you. Oh, and the "I" windings can easily handle the trigger wire current just like an extra relay. Use a terminal block for tucking if you want but no need for extra relay and wires.
Why take the wire from a switch harness that melts(headlight) and put it on another switch harness(ignition) that melts and causes fire so many other ways to do this.
so... only a high torque mini & terminal bar necessary to bypass the oem solenoid... interesting. I think I'll do that. along with all this molested harness wiring ...
In general fixing someone elses shoddy work is a pain but wiring? Thats the worst lol, glad this beauty is sorted out now!
Chris, your attention to detail is great. Will translate into a great business for yourself! Great work!
@7:50 Instead of doing all of that you can simply leave everything the way it is on the factory solenoid and make a small 10-12ga jumper to go from the battery cable post on the mini starter to the S post on the mini (sn95) starter, done.
Just got my 79, so far am on day 4 of fixing wires. Thought I was done after day 3 and then the solenoid decided it was a good time to get stuck. Now get to use your trick with the relay, thanks for the video
You're welcome! Good luck with your project
Great idea on what to do about wiring a solenoid / removing the old solenoid for a high torque mini starter.
As far as the wiring nightmares when people wire in things wrong and left with trying to figure out why the
wired things up that way. Great job figuring out the wire mess.
Thank you
Yes...a local shop in British Columbia that specializes in foxbodies did that to mine. They deleted the old solenoid and did a relay system for a few items running off the solenoid such as electric fans, msd etc. I think they made a mount and installed a few relays inside the wheel well. (It was tucked as well)
Nice! Ya this is a great upgrade for those with wire tucks.
Chris, these cars are so f*cking BUTCHERED now. Even the 10/10s aren't safe.
Tearing the dash out is becoming one of my SOPs on unfamiliar cars.
Great video! Glad you got it figured out. Lesson… The time it takes to wire things correctly is well worth it!
Great tip with the solenoid. Wiring can always be fun!!
Nice job 👍🏻, great information. I’ve got a Ht mini starter on my 351. I’m still running dual solenoids. I’ve been thinking about rewiring the starter. This helped me. Thanks 😊
You're welcome!
Great vid. I too just tackled some electrical gremlins including the blue 20 gauge fusible link for the computer/eec relay. Keep up the awesome content 🦊👍🏼
@9:16 This is exactly how I do it, well I use a relay. I have a distribution post that the battery + goes to which supplies battery voltage to anything requiring it like the starter battery post & the 30 pin on the new starter relay. 85 goes to battery- key cranking to 86 and 87 goes to the S stud on the starter.
on the power wire, I actually ran mine through the subframe connector, has been working fine for the last few years.
Great information aside from you calling the smaller gauge wires low voltage instead of low current. All the positive wires are 12 volts however, the smaller gauge wires carry less current not lower voltage. The electronics technician in me felt compelled to provide this correction.😉
I worked in low voltage for many years so sometimes when you talk in front of the camera you say stuff that comes naturally.. but yes you are correct 💯. Voltage doesn't kill, amperage does!
And yes... texas rain... a good thing because you never know how long w/o we will be.
So true
Great info. I am planning to do a wire tuck on my notch and this info will come in handy
This may be a stupid question but does the type of relay or amp size of the relay matter? Great video! I have been wondering how I could clean up my starter solenoid. I have a similar setup and was about to put on a new high torque starter so definitely going to do this and get a 12v distribution block.
Awesome video! Thank you for this!
You're welcome!
Glad you got those gauges fixed drove me nuts also. I thought previous owner did it. But I guess not. 😂.
Ya I was really hoping it wasn't you either LMAO!
Definitely wasn’t me 😂
Where can I get the relay and plug for the relay?
I had one hang up and kill three starters by the time I figured it out .I have an obs ford and did the door bell trick and at first assumed the doorbell stuck so I pulled it off and just left the two wire end until I got a new one .next day new starter it happened again so I thought maybe the wires casing rubbed a hole and were touching pulled the wire no holes .starter three I had the hood open and it happened again I smacked the solenoid because I finally figured it out starter unstuck and I realized the problem.
What size relay are you using. I don’t see a link to the info.
ProCharged SALEEN..... YES PLEASE!
I have a high torque mini starter sitting on the shelf, what relay did you use? Can you send a link? Thx!
I second
What size amp relay does it take?
what size relay did you use
Added relay huh? Well, how about something easier. For a PMGR (mini) if you would think about it a bit, you could just get an older style starter solenoid (relay) that has FOUR terminals. Then 1) run the trigger wire from the "I" or ignition terminal, 2) put the start wire from the key on the "S" terminal. 3) leave the starter feed wire on its original terminal lug opposite the battery lug and 4) battery power as it was. SO, that way the battery wire is not constantly live and only gets voltage on start, and the trigger wire is instantly isolated from any PGMR feedback when you let go of the key, because the "I" terminal is wired that way. No extra anything and a lot easier, but don't let that stop you. Oh, and the "I" windings can easily handle the trigger wire current just like an extra relay. Use a terminal block for tucking if you want but no need for extra relay and wires.
The 4 gauge starter wire go bad will it drain alternator.
Thanks for the content. Wiring sucks. Looks good 😎
LOL... something must be wrong with me as I actually enjoy wiring.
@@TheInfamousProject definitely some wrong lol But like I said before your attention to detail is what makes it.
Why take the wire from a switch harness that melts(headlight) and put it on another switch harness(ignition) that melts and causes fire so many other ways to do this.
Beautiful color. What color is that?
What amp size relay did you use?
I luv those mustangs I luv that blue wat color is the name of that blue I wnt a mustang like that except automatic
Sonic Blue
@9:03 will bad starter or wire cause battery yo die out? Thanks
so... only a high torque mini & terminal bar necessary to bypass the oem solenoid... interesting. I think I'll do that. along with all this molested harness wiring ...
Confusing