If you use an infinite control switch like your cook stove uses the switch has 5 legs on it. It has H1, H2 , L1 and L2. And a leg for a light that shows the burner is on. Disregard that one . H stands for heater which is the burner. You will hook 2 wires from H1 and H2 to the burner. L1 and L2 which is the line coming in, you will hook your power to these 2 and your ground wire to the chassis of the shot maker .
If you just use a double pole toggle switch just put your switch in the 2 power wires to break the current on each 120 volt leg. This method will give you greater heat. If you have too much heat you will destroy your shot, it all depends on how many drippers you have and how fast you are adding lead.
So what is the benefit of a short drop off the ramp over a longer drop into the cooling liquid?
The shot needs to hit the coolant while it's very liquid and gets quenched at that precise time as it is in it's most round shape.
Ok, I am in the process of building my own and this comes at a good time can you share a digram of the burner wiring digram on that 220v?
If you use an infinite control switch like your cook stove uses the switch has 5 legs on it. It has H1, H2 , L1 and L2. And a leg for a light that shows the burner is on. Disregard that one .
H stands for heater which is the burner. You will hook 2 wires from H1 and H2 to the burner. L1 and L2 which is the line coming in, you will hook your power to these 2 and your ground wire to the chassis of the shot maker .
If you just use a double pole toggle switch just put your switch in the 2 power wires to break the current on each 120 volt leg. This method will give you greater heat. If you have too much heat you will destroy your shot, it all depends on how many drippers you have and how fast you are adding lead.
Thank you this is what I was looking for. Not much info on hooking up a stove top burner.
@@droberts6579
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