FYI: DId it today, you do not need to remove the ball joints. It does make it a bit easier but as long as you push the drive shaft in, the 4 bolts for the bearing are easy to get to.
Thank you for your feedback! We make our videos based on recommendations we get from people who need them. Your preference will be certainly taken into consideration. Best regards, Autodoc team!
@@autodocuk I usually wouldn't reply. Of course it is easier if you do remove the ball joints, but in turn you then risk ruining the rubber around them.
Double confirmed: Ne need to even move the drive shaft at all! leave it in place of the hub centre the whole time. You can remove both side drive shafts by just turning the wheels but be careful however because you can damage the ABS magnetic ring on back of bearing wedging the shaft in and out because its tight. Here are instructions on how to leave the shaft in place. 1: Remove ABS sensor, brakes and drive shaft bolt, tap driveshaft through hub shaft a few inches to free off and pull hub off bearing leaving the drive shaft still in middle of bearing but loose. 2. Remove bearing bolts and remove bearing with drive shaft still in place just without a bolt and loose in the middle of the hole the bearing mounts into. 3. Press hub into new bearing on bench press. 4. Offer up new bearing and drive shaft into hub shaft at same time. 5. Tighten bearing bolts and drive shaft bolt. 6. Put ABS sensor, brakes and wheels back on torque driveshaft and wheel bolts on floor. Tip: Turn wheels left and right throughout the job for bolt access but have the wheels straight ahead when removing and installing bearing and hub together placing the driveshaft through the hub all in 1 movement. To tap the shaft out the hub: Screw in the bolt 3 turns and tap the bolt head. 1 hour is more than enough and very basic tools needed. I hope this helps someone not having to remove all the hub ball joints for no reason!
I think if you're going to add in those steps (which I think rely on extra play in the CV joint) you're better off just undoing the top ball joint which is plenty.
Thank you for the valuable clarification, This information will be very useful for our viewers and for us. In the future in new videos, we will show this replacement. in more detail. Best regards, Autodoc team.
Thanks did this just yesterday! Absolutely no reason to remove any ball joints as long as you don’t use extreme force and damage the abs ring when putting the new bearing back. And I even did it with the wheels straight
Made me laugh when you can clearly see markings from the wedges used to get the old bearing out @ 5:21 onwards and 7:15 :-D They never come out that easy :-)
Useful video, but isn’t it a bit ridiculous blurring out the audi logo. We do know which car you’re working on, you’ve mentioned it in the video title!
11:45 Axle bolt is 140 FT LB plus 180 degrees. It's a torque to yield bolt so you need a new one. 4:19 those bolts are good to the last thread. I just did this job on my S4. Both sides plus outer tie rod ends. It sucks.
2005-2006 FRONT AND REAR axle nut. Tighten to 147 ft-lbs/200 Nm, with vehicle raised. Then turn an additional 180° when vehicle is on floor. Always replace after removal.
2014 a6 3.0t supercharged Quattro.. when I pulled off the drivers side wheel hub heavy thick oil came out of the middle of the cv shaft. Where the hub bolt came out from what is this oil? Is the cv shaft bad?
unless im missing something @Henry Phillips on my 2010 A6 my driveshaft wont go far enough back to get correctly onto the 12point bolts.... like 90% but still in the way so I'm not getting straight onto bolts
Thank you for your comment! In order to answer your question, we need more data about your car. Contact our support team and we will certainly try to help you. Best regards, Autodoc team
Great Video!! I have a 2016 Audi A6 2.0t . I have been noticing a humming/buzzing noise coming from the front end of the vehicle while driving. Everything I have searched online indicates the front wheel bearing is the cause of this sound. Do you guys believe that to be the case?
Thank you for your comment! We highly recommend you use a professional car workshop to have a close look into this issue and locate the faulty part, as there could be many different reasons for such unusual behavior. Best Regards, Autodoc Team.
Alot of these torque specs are wrong, Countersunk Bolts 80Nm + 90 degrees, The lower arm guide pin is 110Nm and needs thread lock, the upper bold and nut is 45Nm or 50Nm for RS6, Axle bolt is 200Nm plus 180 degrees, speed sensor bolt 8Nm, Splash plate 10Nm, CAliper bolts to wheel bearing housing 196Nm.
Thank you for your comment! It all depends on the technical condition of the parts' assemblies, however, on average, with the right tool, a replacement takes from an hour to two. Best Regards, Autodoc team
Thank you for your feedback! It is our top priority to receive comments as positive as yours. Be sure to subscribe to our channel if you don`t want to miss out on more useful videos in the nearest future. Best regards, Autodoc team!
Can you avoid the whole pressing process if you just purchase a new hub with bearing or is this always a part of the repair? I feel like theres gotta be an easier way than to pull absolutely everything apart.
Thank you for your comment! You are absolutely right, in the absence of the right tool, it is easier to buy a bearing immediately assembled with a hub flange. Best Regards, Autodoc team
@@autodocuk Thankyou for your kind words. Top tip: make sure you remember to remove ABS sensor before pulling wheel bearing. I broke mine rite half in 2!
Double confirmed: Ne need to even move the drive shaft at all! leave it in place the whole time but you can remove both sides by just turning the wheels. You have to be careful however because you can damage the ABS magnetic ring on back of bearing wedging the shaft in and out because its tight. Here are instruction on how to leave the shaft in place. 1: Remove ABS sensor, brakes and drive shaft bolt, tap driveshaft through hub shaft a few inches to free off and pull hub off bearing leaving the drive shaft still in middle of bearing but loose. 2. Remove bearing bolts and remove bearing with drive shaft still in place just without a bolt and loose in the middle of the hole the bearing mounts into. 3. Press hub into new bearing on bench press. 4. Offer up new bearing and drive shaft into hub shaft at same time. 5. Tighten bearing bolts and drive shaft bolt. 6. Put ABS sensor, brakes and wheels back on torque driveshaft and wheel bolts on floor. Tip: Turn wheels left and right throughout the job for bolt access but have the wheels straight ahead when removing and installing bearing and hub together placing the driveshaft through the hub all in 1 movement. To tap the shaft out the hub: Screw in the bolt 3 turns and tap the bolt head. 1 hour is more than enough and very basic tools needed. I hope this helps someone not having to remove all the hub ball joints for no reason!
Thank you for your comment! Please clarify or rephrase your question and we will be able to assist you and help you with any questions. Best Regards, Autodoc team
FYI: DId it today, you do not need to remove the ball joints. It does make it a bit easier but as long as you push the drive shaft in, the 4 bolts for the bearing are easy to get to.
Thank you for your feedback!
We make our videos based on recommendations we get from people who need them. Your preference will be certainly taken into consideration.
Best regards,
Autodoc team!
@@autodocuk I usually wouldn't reply. Of course it is easier if you do remove the ball joints, but in turn you then risk ruining the rubber around them.
Double confirmed: Ne need to even move the drive shaft at all! leave it in place of the hub centre the whole time.
You can remove both side drive shafts by just turning the wheels but be careful however because you can damage the ABS magnetic ring on back of bearing wedging the shaft in and out because its tight.
Here are instructions on how to leave the shaft in place.
1: Remove ABS sensor, brakes and drive shaft bolt, tap driveshaft through hub shaft a few inches to free off and pull hub off bearing leaving the drive shaft still in middle of bearing but loose.
2. Remove bearing bolts and remove bearing with drive shaft still in place just without a bolt and loose in the middle of the hole the bearing mounts into.
3. Press hub into new bearing on bench press.
4. Offer up new bearing and drive shaft into hub shaft at same time.
5. Tighten bearing bolts and drive shaft bolt.
6. Put ABS sensor, brakes and wheels back on torque driveshaft and wheel bolts on floor.
Tip: Turn wheels left and right throughout the job for bolt access but have the wheels straight ahead when removing and installing bearing and hub together placing the driveshaft through the hub all in 1 movement. To tap the shaft out the hub: Screw in the bolt 3 turns and tap the bolt head.
1 hour is more than enough and very basic tools needed.
I hope this helps someone not having to remove all the hub ball joints for no reason!
I think if you're going to add in those steps (which I think rely on extra play in the CV joint) you're better off just undoing the top ball joint which is plenty.
Thank you for the valuable clarification,
This information will be very useful for our viewers and for us.
In the future in new videos, we will show this replacement. in more detail.
Best regards,
Autodoc team.
Thanks did this just yesterday! Absolutely no reason to remove any ball joints as long as you don’t use extreme force and damage the abs ring when putting the new bearing back. And I even did it with the wheels straight
The dust ring that he trows away, is it not necessary to replace ?. He does not fit a new one on when he presses the new bearing on the shaft.
It is most recommended. He just forgot in the video
This just convinced me to pay someone to do it. I know mine won't come apart that easily.
Made me laugh when you can clearly see markings from the wedges used to get the old bearing out @ 5:21 onwards and 7:15 :-D They never come out that easy :-)
Useful video, but isn’t it a bit ridiculous blurring out the audi logo. We do know which car you’re working on, you’ve mentioned it in the video title!
Stupid right ? Lol
11:45 Axle bolt is 140 FT LB plus 180 degrees. It's a torque to yield bolt so you need a new one. 4:19 those bolts are good to the last thread. I just did this job on my S4. Both sides plus outer tie rod ends. It sucks.
2005-2006 FRONT AND REAR axle nut. Tighten to 147 ft-lbs/200 Nm, with vehicle raised. Then turn an additional 180° when vehicle is on floor. Always replace after removal.
Is this also for an Audi a6 2013? 3.0T
In this video there is car - AUDI A6 2 (C6) 2.0 years of production 05.2004-03.2011
2014 a6 3.0t supercharged Quattro.. when I pulled off the drivers side wheel hub heavy thick oil came out of the middle of the cv shaft. Where the hub bolt came out from what is this oil? Is the cv shaft bad?
Really helpfull! Thank you!
unless im missing something @Henry Phillips on my 2010 A6 my driveshaft wont go far enough back to get correctly onto the 12point bolts.... like 90% but still in the way so I'm not getting straight onto bolts
We strongly recommend that you familiarize yourself with the technical regulations before carrying out installation work.
AUTODOC
We strongly recommend that you familiarize yourself with the technical regulations before carrying out installation work.
AUTODOC
Is it the same for the rear? I have a 07 A6 quattro AWD. Thanks you! Great video
Thank you for your comment!
In order to answer your question, we need more data about your car.
Contact our support team and we will certainly try to help you.
Best regards,
Autodoc team
Thanks Autodoc
Great video guys very professional
Thank you for your feedback!
We are glad to know this tutorial was useful to you.
Stay tuned for more!
Best regards,
Autodoc team!
The hex bit you need is H19, not H17
On mine it was H17
Great Video!!
I have a 2016 Audi A6 2.0t . I have been noticing a humming/buzzing noise coming from the front end of the vehicle while driving. Everything I have searched online indicates the front wheel bearing is the cause of this sound. Do you guys believe that to be the case?
Thank you for your comment!
We highly recommend you use a professional car workshop to have a close look into this issue and locate the faulty part, as there could be many different reasons for such unusual behavior. Best Regards, Autodoc Team.
Alot of these torque specs are wrong, Countersunk Bolts 80Nm + 90 degrees, The lower arm guide pin is 110Nm and needs thread lock, the upper bold and nut is 45Nm or 50Nm for RS6, Axle bolt is 200Nm plus 180 degrees, speed sensor bolt 8Nm, Splash plate 10Nm, CAliper bolts to wheel bearing housing 196Nm.
🤔 about how many hours did this job take?
👍🏻👍🏻 good work
Thank you for your comment!
It all depends on the technical condition of the parts' assemblies, however, on average, with the right tool, a replacement takes from an hour to two.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Professional work
Thank you for your feedback! It is our top priority to receive comments as positive as yours. Be sure to subscribe to our channel if you don`t want to miss out on more useful videos in the nearest future. Best regards, Autodoc team!
Can you avoid the whole pressing process if you just purchase a new hub with bearing or is this always a part of the repair? I feel like theres gotta be an easier way than to pull absolutely everything apart.
Thank you for your comment!
You are absolutely right, in the absence of the right tool, it is easier to buy a bearing immediately assembled with a hub flange.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
I thought the hub nut is torqued to 200nm then a further 180deg this only gets torqued to 200nm and then left,isn’t that wrong ?
Wheel hub / front axle wheel bearing
Wheel bearing block 80 Nm + 90
Central bolt 200 Nm + 180
AUTODOC
There are complete assemblies for sale saves you time pressing in
It all depends on the model and design. Hub bearings are assembled with a hub and are available separately.
AUTODOC
Good 👍👍👍👍👍
To remove the driveshaft you dont need to remove bottom arm ball joint at all! you just turn the wheel!
Thank you for the valuable clarification.
It will be very useful information for our viewers.
Best regards,
Autodoc team.
@@autodocuk Thankyou for your kind words. Top tip: make sure you remember to remove ABS sensor before pulling wheel bearing. I broke mine rite half in 2!
Only on the Left front.
Double confirmed: Ne need to even move the drive shaft at all! leave it in place the whole time but you can remove both sides by just turning the wheels. You have to be careful however because you can damage the ABS magnetic ring on back of bearing wedging the shaft in and out because its tight. Here are instruction on how to leave the shaft in place.
1: Remove ABS sensor, brakes and drive shaft bolt, tap driveshaft through hub shaft a few inches to free off and pull hub off bearing leaving the drive shaft still in middle of bearing but loose.
2. Remove bearing bolts and remove bearing with drive shaft still in place just without a bolt and loose in the middle of the hole the bearing mounts into.
3. Press hub into new bearing on bench press.
4. Offer up new bearing and drive shaft into hub shaft at same time.
5. Tighten bearing bolts and drive shaft bolt.
6. Put ABS sensor, brakes and wheels back on torque driveshaft and wheel bolts on floor.
Tip: Turn wheels left and right throughout the job for bolt access but have the wheels straight ahead when removing and installing bearing and hub together placing the driveshaft through the hub all in 1 movement. To tap the shaft out the hub: Screw in the bolt 3 turns and tap the bolt head.
1 hour is more than enough and very basic tools needed.
I hope this helps someone not having to remove all the hub ball joints for no reason!
И зачем закрывать логотипы ауди, глупость такая.
80Nm plus 90*
Thank you for your comment!
Please clarify or rephrase your question and we will be able to assist you and help you with any questions.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team