Thanks for the video, another good one , I like how you took the remainder bearing off without scoring it 👍 very informative video please continue making, and thanks again, from Tony from Bedfordshire,😀👍
You have better access to the two bottom bearing carrier bolts if you lift the whole suspension from the lower control arm. The bottom front one is the trickiest.👌
for anyone watching this in the rust belt, when all else fails and the hub is stuck, pulling the spindle off is relatively easy and only took me an hour, you can then lay the spindle on the ground propped up on blocks and thread the bolts halfway in, proceed to smash till its out
unless i missed it you don't mention the torque specs for the driveshaft nuts and you don't tighten an additional 180 degree once cehicles back on the ground ?
the only reason i mentioned it was a friend of mine recently had driveshaft done, wasn't done up properly and breaing fell apart resulting in damaged brakes as disc was hitting caliper carrier, your video helped us to understand the assembly process for this particular car so thank you! we suspect the garage did the same, zipped it and then never went back to check but might have even been finger tight for all we know, looks like original bolt reused too so probably was no thread lock on that one lol@@diydaly
Great job with the video. Thanks! I was asking myself this same question. I just did the bearings in my Porsche Macan which are exactly the same as those. I used a torque wrench to get those center bolts to spec, then I used a torque multiplier wrench to turn 180 degrees. I don’t think that impact wrench is enough to get that bolt to the right specs.
what i don't understand is why audi etc bother with this 200nm + 180degree bullshit, just give us the torque spec of what that totals lol.....i'm sure there's a good reason for it really but above my intelligence level@@porscheDIY
@@jamesaamoore What? You never studied mechanics of materials principles? ☺️… just joking… is the mechanical engineer in me… I guess this is what they call “torque to yield”…. Those specs are given normally for non-reusable bolts. The amount of torque specified by the degrees beyond the initial torque spec applies certain tension to the bolt that put it closer to yield point of the material. I think is a way for mfg to tell techs, “do not reuse the bolts”…☺️. Is not an Audi thing… Porsche and the whole VAG as well. I kind of agree with you, easier for mfg to just tell the overall torque spec and maybe mention “Do Not Reuse”. And I’m not sure what is their reasoning, but I can speculate. Maybe after initial torque, torque could become perfunctory, and that’s why they specify degrees, but I find this highly unlikely. Or maybe is just want I said initially….
don't ever put a grease on a hub! clean it and that's it. grease is too thick and it will cause a wobble between hub and rotor. it's not taken off everyday so don't worry about it. no manufacturer demands greasing the hub. if You badly must lube it then use finger dipped in oil but turn the rotor on the hub several times before fixing.
That was horrible smacking the wheel hub to loosen the bearing...those are 300 USD a piece. The other ways you mentioned are smarter. Why you didn't use them is a wonder...
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Great video and your explanation in simple easy to understand English.
Glad to hear that!
Ill be attenpting this on my driveway this weekend but the full assembly rather than splitting and pressing. Ill be following this vid closely.
Great video and editing! Thank you for not adding music
Glad you liked it!
Hope the one I have to do tomorrow comes off that easy
🤞
Thanks!
Thankyou very much!!
By far the best and most comprehensive video I've found by far... Thanks for such a great video
Brilliant detailed video as always and great camera work
Brilliant video really good knowledge and in depth!
Thanks for the video, another good one , I like how you took the remainder bearing off without scoring it 👍 very informative video please continue making, and thanks again, from Tony from Bedfordshire,😀👍
Thanks Tony 👍 your comments much appreciated
You have better access to the two bottom bearing carrier bolts if you lift the whole suspension from the lower control arm. The bottom front one is the trickiest.👌
👍
Excellent video, very clearly explained
Glad it was helpful!
for anyone watching this in the rust belt, when all else fails and the hub is stuck, pulling the spindle off is relatively easy and only took me an hour, you can then lay the spindle on the ground propped up on blocks and thread the bolts halfway in, proceed to smash till its out
Very good video! Keep up the good job, mate!
Thanks, will do!
Thanks for another great video really enjoy them👍👍
Thanks 👍
Will the bearing you said about with the fans connected fit i 64 play i fall saloon
Thanks for sharing Gav.
👍👍
Is this the same procedure for a B9 A4 2017?
good video and detail thanks :)
Glad it was helpful! 👍
Excellent 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Is it bad if you install a brand new wheel bearing and disc together without pressing them together with the vice ?
Just a quick question, do you lubricate any of the bolt heads when replacing them into the hub wheel, bearing.
not usually as the are originally locktite'd in
great watch lad 👍👍👍
👍👍 thanks
And are the bearings the same on petrol and diesel
Milwaukee puts the snap on to shame again 😂😂😂
It’s a beast 👍
How did you get that 4th multi spine bolt out? It doesn't clear as it hits the thread on the lower ball joint.
Can it be reused?
You should be able to access it ok when turned at the right angle , you just need the right length spline bit
What would you do if the 4 bolts starts to round out or strip trying to get the wheel bearing out?
Worst case probley have to cut the bearing off
How long did it take you fella? 👍
1-1.5 hours mate
unless i missed it you don't mention the torque specs for the driveshaft nuts and you don't tighten an additional 180 degree once cehicles back on the ground ?
I just did them with the buzz gun , the correct torque setting listed in the description
the only reason i mentioned it was a friend of mine recently had driveshaft done, wasn't done up properly and breaing fell apart resulting in damaged brakes as disc was hitting caliper carrier, your video helped us to understand the assembly process for this particular car so thank you! we suspect the garage did the same, zipped it and then never went back to check but might have even been finger tight for all we know, looks like original bolt reused too so probably was no thread lock on that one lol@@diydaly
Great job with the video. Thanks! I was asking myself this same question. I just did the bearings in my Porsche Macan which are exactly the same as those. I used a torque wrench to get those center bolts to spec, then I used a torque multiplier wrench to turn 180 degrees. I don’t think that impact wrench is enough to get that bolt to the right specs.
what i don't understand is why audi etc bother with this 200nm + 180degree bullshit, just give us the torque spec of what that totals lol.....i'm sure there's a good reason for it really but above my intelligence level@@porscheDIY
@@jamesaamoore What? You never studied mechanics of materials principles? ☺️… just joking… is the mechanical engineer in me…
I guess this is what they call “torque to yield”…. Those specs are given normally for non-reusable bolts. The amount of torque specified by the degrees beyond the initial torque spec applies certain tension to the bolt that put it closer to yield point of the material. I think is a way for mfg to tell techs, “do not reuse the bolts”…☺️. Is not an Audi thing… Porsche and the whole VAG as well.
I kind of agree with you, easier for mfg to just tell the overall torque spec and maybe mention “Do Not Reuse”. And I’m not sure what is their reasoning, but I can speculate. Maybe after initial torque, torque could become perfunctory, and that’s why they specify degrees, but I find this highly unlikely. Or maybe is just want I said initially….
Where do you get your torque spec diagrams?
I use Haynes pro mate
don't ever put a grease on a hub! clean it and that's it. grease is too thick and it will cause a wobble between hub and rotor. it's not taken off everyday so don't worry about it. no manufacturer demands greasing the hub. if You badly must lube it then use finger dipped in oil but turn the rotor on the hub several times before fixing.
👏🏻👏🏻👍
👍👍
That was jammy
👍
That was horrible smacking the wheel hub to loosen the bearing...those are 300 USD a piece. The other ways you mentioned are smarter. Why you didn't use them is a wonder...
he was tapping it what is wrong with that? you think that breaks your wheel hub?
@@nqd1959 Yes, you can easily hit the hub out of spec by hammering it like that.
What a mess