I just want say that I have gathered much information on your well done videos, especially the VFD's. The frequency carrier was a good one. This spindle lock video is great and fun to watch. Your honesty on mistakes is admirable. Thank you. -Tom
Nice work. Note: including small holes on the center line of the spindle piece, then inserting matching dowels would serve as setup to place the part vertical in the vise. Then no 3D printed fixture would be needed. Cheers.
Excellent neat, compact & rigid accessory. I have to make one similar for my hobby vertical mill, but will be painting it red to try and help prevent accidental switch on with a locked spindle!
James, I would love to see a video from you on Tool length offsets and work offsets. I know there are tons on here but I enjoy your informative concepts and would like your take on them! Thanks!
Well done and good camera work too Clough. The lighting is great and enjoyed watching the project, inspired to do something similar. Are you just in your garage?? Setup looks nice and seems to work well.
I just subscribed to your videos and am impressed! Just one suggestion on the slitting saw, the saw should enter a corner and gradually cut the full width. Basically you should touchoff and the move your Y axis away from you, then move the cutter in the needed DOC and then feed into the part. Your cutter will be more efficient and you can cut greater depths
Your attention to detail is fantastic! Always enjoy your videos sir. I have an off topic question. I have an Oliver 3 phase tablesaw that I just purchased. I only see three hot wires going into the panel and no ground or neutral. Does this sound correct to you sir?
A ground wire is not required for a three-phase motor to function. However, you should have a ground wire connecting the chassis to ground for safety. The phase differences between the three hot wires carry the energy to the motor, but if a wire comes loose or a coil shorts to the frame, the whole machine could become live without a safety ground.
It would, and I've looked into multiple options. I have the added requirement that the LEDs can't flicker and have to match the color temperature of my overhead lights because I shoot video in the shop. That's the only reason I'm not running a Hound Dog Machining light on my mill.
@@Clough42 James, I'm an old school photographer before digital photography was invented. I did still photography in a television station environment and had to do a ton of color temperature balancing. Agree 100% about the flicker. For the small amount of light that your supplemental light would add, if it's within 1000°K of your other lights it's probably not going to be noticeable. The main lights will still influence the mill lights. Warmer light is always more comforting than colder light.
I enjoy your videos, thank you. I was wondering about the significance of the 42 in you title. Someone suggested that it might be from the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Universe...the universal answer to everything...42. Just a funny question.
Yeah, that's where it came from. Many years ago, when the Internet was young, I tried to create an account somewhere with my usual username: "clough". It wasn't available, so I tried "clough2". That wasn't available. The system helpfully suggested "clough6". I wanted something I could use everywhere, so I tried "clough42". That worked, and I've been using it now for probably 27 years.
yeah if only you had some way to buff that metal... fun project... why you could even grind it if you had such a tool.. ah what a bright future this young Clough had
Why bother dealing with all the inaccuracy and slowness of a 3D print if you can just grab any random flat scrap stock and cut the profile? The thickness and material isn't even important.
If you're making wasteboards or expendable blocks specifically for a CNC mill, you already have the data and tools available to make a better-performing fixture with better accuracy, more predictable and consistent material properties (in part leading to better locating predictability/repeatability), at a lower cost, and with much less time and effort. Doing it with a 3D printer under those circumstances is just trying to find a reason to use a 3D printer because people obsess over interests like that. If you're confident that you can accurately print parts with your 3D printer, you don't really need to prove to yourself that you can also print wasteboards with reduced rmechanical requirements. If you're just beginning and want to learn about 3D printing, you'd probably be better off burning filament on noncritical parts where dimensional accuracy isn't important -- because predicting and mitigating print deformation (during printing and under application loading) is actually a big part of that learning curve. That said, I don't exactly consider this guy to be a novice. If you didn't have a CNC mill, it would totally be a different story. In the end, it's not my shop. Regardless of reason, it's not exactly like a man doesn't deserve to follow his own whimsy if that's what he desires.
I just want say that I have gathered much information on your well done videos, especially the VFD's. The frequency carrier was a good one. This spindle lock video is great and fun to watch. Your honesty on mistakes is admirable. Thank you. -Tom
Nice work. Note: including small holes on the center line of the spindle piece, then inserting
matching dowels would serve as setup to place the part vertical in the vise. Then no 3D printed fixture would be needed. Cheers.
Hello James, would we say it's a happy end of three? Of course, yes. Thanks, your realisations are near perfection
Thank you
Very well thought out, designed and machined. I'd be more than happy with that as well.
Thanks!
Awesome Job. I have all manual machines...this makes me want CNC machines now. Keep up the awesome videos!
Sometimes I miss turning the cranks on the mill for quick jobs, but the CNC is pretty nice.
Excellent neat, compact & rigid accessory. I have to make one similar for my hobby vertical mill, but will be painting it red to try and help prevent accidental switch on with a locked spindle!
James, I would love to see a video from you on Tool length offsets and work offsets. I know there are tons on here but I enjoy your informative concepts and would like your take on them!
Thanks!
That's a great idea. It has been on my list for a while. And it sounds like an easy video to make. :)
Nice work Bud! I like the router for chamfering idea!
Well done and good camera work too Clough. The lighting is great and enjoyed watching the project, inspired to do something similar. Are you just in your garage?? Setup looks nice and seems to work well.
Yes, this is a small garage shop with lots and lots of extra light.
Oh, and very clever 3D printer use: I have seen a lot used for making moulds for aluminium casting
Thanks. It's really handy to have one (or more) around for stuff like this.
Impressive! 👍
PS: You could have drilled these holes before milling when the material was still rectangular.
I just subscribed to your videos and am impressed! Just one suggestion on the slitting saw, the saw should enter a corner and gradually cut the full width. Basically you should touchoff and the move your Y axis away from you, then move the cutter in the needed DOC and then feed into the part. Your cutter will be more efficient and you can cut greater depths
Your attention to detail is fantastic! Always enjoy your videos sir. I have an off topic question. I have an Oliver 3 phase tablesaw that I just purchased. I only see three hot wires going into the panel and no ground or neutral. Does this sound correct to you sir?
A ground wire is not required for a three-phase motor to function. However, you should have a ground wire connecting the chassis to ground for safety. The phase differences between the three hot wires carry the energy to the motor, but if a wire comes loose or a coil shorts to the frame, the whole machine could become live without a safety ground.
Thanks so much sir. That is exactly what I was thinking.
Did you notice the relief for the OTHER 3D part adjusting when the larger one changed? Was that intentional?
vertical broaching on eh Mill. i am looking forward to it.
thanks
VERY VERY GOOD
Beauty!
The upper ring would be a great place to mount a few LEDs to light up the workpiece.
It would, and I've looked into multiple options. I have the added requirement that the LEDs can't flicker and have to match the color temperature of my overhead lights because I shoot video in the shop. That's the only reason I'm not running a Hound Dog Machining light on my mill.
@@Clough42 James, I'm an old school photographer before digital photography was invented. I did still photography in a television station environment and had to do a ton of color temperature balancing. Agree 100% about the flicker. For the small amount of light that your supplemental light would add, if it's within 1000°K of your other lights it's probably not going to be noticeable. The main lights will still influence the mill lights. Warmer light is always more comforting than colder light.
I enjoy your videos, thank you. I was wondering about the significance of the 42 in you title. Someone suggested that it might be from the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Universe...the universal answer to everything...42. Just a funny question.
Yeah, that's where it came from. Many years ago, when the Internet was young, I tried to create an account somewhere with my usual username: "clough". It wasn't available, so I tried "clough2". That wasn't available. The system helpfully suggested "clough6". I wanted something I could use everywhere, so I tried "clough42". That worked, and I've been using it now for probably 27 years.
@@Clough42 Thats an awesome Legacy behind the username. From the dawn of the internet!
@@Clough42 I was actually gonna ask the same question. I like you even more now James!
So long and thanks for all the fish !
yeah if only you had some way to buff that metal... fun project... why you could even grind it if you had such a tool.. ah what a bright future this young Clough had
I think I would have saved a little time and milled the fixtures from wood.
nice!!!
Pretty Impressive>
26:00 ...no built-in fine adjustment screw...? Tsk, tsk, tsk... ;)
When you measure center of mass you forget about bolts.
I am not machinist, just 3d artist 😉
Why bother dealing with all the inaccuracy and slowness of a 3D print if you can just grab any random flat scrap stock and cut the profile? The thickness and material isn't even important.
Proof of concept, testing an idea, learning?
If you're making wasteboards or expendable blocks specifically for a CNC mill, you already have the data and tools available to make a better-performing fixture with better accuracy, more predictable and consistent material properties (in part leading to better locating predictability/repeatability), at a lower cost, and with much less time and effort.
Doing it with a 3D printer under those circumstances is just trying to find a reason to use a 3D printer because people obsess over interests like that. If you're confident that you can accurately print parts with your 3D printer, you don't really need to prove to yourself that you can also print wasteboards with reduced rmechanical requirements. If you're just beginning and want to learn about 3D printing, you'd probably be better off burning filament on noncritical parts where dimensional accuracy isn't important -- because predicting and mitigating print deformation (during printing and under application loading) is actually a big part of that learning curve. That said, I don't exactly consider this guy to be a novice.
If you didn't have a CNC mill, it would totally be a different story.
In the end, it's not my shop. Regardless of reason, it's not exactly like a man doesn't deserve to follow his own whimsy if that's what he desires.