Seriously. all seriousness. like i mention in the video. it is dangerous to play around with CRT's especially when charged, and always make sure it is fully discharged! make sure to research
2:30 SERIOUSLY: most of those screwdrivers only are insulated up to a few single-digit 1kV - there's no way they could insulate against 40kV or any other Voltage used in common CRTs! So what you're doing might have seriously shocked if not killed you - if there were any amount of serious current on it! & while the hv caps in CRTs have a tendency to accumulate static electricity from all the em foobar floating around, the current & hence overall energy you might get out of it is hopefully often not enough to kill you - but due to the transformers the voltages is likely high enough to shock at least!
I imagine this guy as a sort of cyberpunk underground musician who goes scavenging for scraps and old electrical equipment in a dystopian world a la Blade Runner and he's the center of a rebel organization
He's the leader of a group of cyber-scavengers who use frequencies from their homemade synthesizers to wreak havoc on the robot overlords of the future.
I love that you just described the character Blank Reg without realizing it. Look up a show called "Max Headroom" if you get a chance. You might like it.
true and also giving an viual form of sound withch mean we can alphabetize the sound then create a real new language.of course against the skynet bot domination obviously
"The great thing about old school appliance manufacturers, is they're not selfish dickheads that make you buy new things when something doesn't work" Love this
Away from Singer you cannot hold this statment for long. Lifespam was bigger, because the mony you have inverted in this TV was about 6 month incomes, probably more. Now you pay a fraction of one income and that is what you get. But even if you were not willing to do that, they added SW and FW to everything so they are guaranteed to be obsolete, even if they are not broke. Just turn into heavy equipment, like trucks and trains, they still last decades .. difference is they are not mass consumer items.
Just remember, to any wanna-be electronic tweekers - It doesn't matter what size the CRT, 30+ inch or 3 inch, the voltages needed to make the electron gun work are most definitely *lethal* . The capacitor connected to the electrode of the "picture tube" can store a lethal charge for years and needs to be discharged as shown in the video ... although a 100 ohm, 10 amp resistor between the screwdriver and the ground wire is probably a bit safer.
not quite always and automatically lethal because i have been shocked a few times in my learning days and am still alive...most tvs DONT hold a charge but some do......the ones that DO they hold it for hours maybe days...there are a FEW that hold charge for a very long time....screwdriver method is standard procedure and safe IF you are not dumb.....the charge may be 10 or 20kv but very low amps and it will be a fraction of a second of shock so if you suffer heart disease it MAY kill you but very unlikely...it will throw you back and it may hurt.....but much more dangerous is putting a finger on a socket with 220v and leaving it there till you die because you can have sockets connected to 16amp breakers or even higher so it will fry you before tripping the breaker if the house does not have a differential breaker....
@@MrHBSoftware Yup. I actually touched a 240v socket in moment of innattention when I was dismantling/modifying a guitar amp back in high school. Middle finger of my left hand if I recall… oh man..
I'm not going to lie, there was a moment there when the sound and the image lined up so beautifully together that I teared up a bit. This is great art.
get yourself a saw-tooth signal generator that has a trigger/synchronize input. You'll need an X/Y scope that also has an intensity input. They can be kind of hard to find, especially compared to finding an old broken TV
I made one of these gizmos forty years ago for my disco rig . Made it from a black and white tv where the verticle sweep was gone . I still have it , never fails to start a conversation from those who see it for the first time . Science !
Some TV-esque points for those wanting to try this excellent project! 1. Deflection Yoke Short explanation: It is best to leave the existing yoke and CRT neck magnets unmolested in place as the video implies but did not state. An inductor with the same inductance is optimally connected to the TV set's horizontal deflection circuitry to replace the now-disconnected horizontal yoke winding. The vertical winding may simply be disconnected from the TV and used for audio with no consequence. More: The inductance of the yoke horizontal deflection windings are used during horizontal trace to store energy used for making the high voltage. With the flyback transformer, the H yoke part of a tuned circuit and inductance value is important for long life and safe operation. During retrace, the energy is discharged from the yoke into the flyback (high voltage) transformer in the form of a pulse. The term 'flyback' is the old vernacular term for retrace, because the spot on the CRT flys back across the screen (though it's blanked/unseen). The pulse is stepped up by the flyback transformer and rectified (voltage tripler may be used as rectifier-filter), to provide the 23-30KV needed by the CRT HV anode. In most modern (70s-90s) solid state TV sets similar to the one shown, the flyback transformer also acts as the power transformer, in that it provides what is called 'derived power'. As the transformer is driven by the horizontal output transistor, the retrace pulse from the is stepped down from the 900V output transistor pulse and rectified to make the 150-250 volts for the video amplifiers, and the trace waveform (while the transistor is ON) is stepped down and rectified to provide the various low voltages like 5 to 30V that operate the other circuits of the set. These DC voltages are called 'derived' power. This was oversimplified but no one wants to read a whole book. This is done to avoid a large and costly power transformer. The other benefit is that, since the high voltage is regulated, all other voltages from the same transformer will also be as well-regulated. Thus the reasons for substituing a proper inductance for the horizontal yoke winding (It must not saturate either). The cheap way is to steal a yoke of similar inductance (+/-10%) from another TV and use that for the substitute yoke. The right way is to find/buy the correct inductance. ===== -->2. other options: I noticed in the video that the original TV set CRT beam-blanking circuit was doing its job, but this is only needed when scanning a synchronized image like video or when moving the beam from one drawn object to another in a vector display (different blanking circuit for that). For a vector or X-Y scope as shown, remove the blanking signal while keeping the brightness control (CRT bias) and contrast control (video amplifier gain) circuits intact. The brighness control's use need no explanation, but a voltage or additional resistance affecting the brightness control can be externally applied in concert with the existing brightness control to blank the screen when no vector signals are present. It's done in gaming and military displays to prevent screen burn. The brightness control affects all three electron guns (RGB) at once in a color set. Most CRTs have a single control grid for this purpose. The contrast control is like a volume control in an audio amp. It controls the gain of all three individual video amplifier channels (RGB) at the same time, but these control signals can be broken out to control the amplifiers individually. It's simple from there to use the scope as shown with music, but with an external electronic crossover, assign for example, red to bass, green to midrange, and blue to highs. Low-voltage analog signals can thereby vary the intensity of the R, G, and B electron beams to add to the effects. This assumes the original yoke and convergence/centering magnets on the CRT neck are unmolested and the set had good convergence and purity before conversion. In the 1980s, I worked with a performance art group and modified many TV sets for this audio and color oscilloscope use. The large square cabinet type TVs allowed everything to be mounted inside the cabinet with just an audio jack for input from the mix board. In some products, the TV set's speaker was connected through a little transformer to the now-internal amplifier's input, so it responded to ambient sound. A caveat is that solid state amps of the day didn't like the inductive load of the H and V yokes and sometimes would blow out. So we used old public address tube amps. 20 Watts for H and for V was often enough. Frequently to get the lissajous figures from a music or voice source, I would put a speaker-type crossover after the amp, and drive the vertical windings for lower frequencies and the horizontal windings for high frequencies. That with the individual video (color) channels was very entertaining. Modification of these crossover circuit values to tailor the crossover points to a specific yoke (because it's certainly not a 4 or 8 ohm load) was occasionally needed to get best results. I hope those who enjoy the work done in the video will be aided in their efforts to do the same. There are a lot of CRT videos, but i chose to comment on this one because it's cooly presented and the artist has a lot of electronics skills.
Did this project and I have two questions: How do I remove the blanking signal? I assume I have to cut a pin off from the jungle chip right? Second, instead of a getting a white beam I get a blue one with a bit of yellow, which were the colors from the TV when there's no signal connected (all blue backdrop with yellow letters saying VIDEO on the upper left corner), how can I get just the white beam?
@@KRSHERprs A public notice: I seldom use this site any more, so any questions may go un-answered for indeterminate amounts of time. OK to try to answer your question, almost every TV set has slightly different ways of adding blanking pulses to the RGB signals going to the CRT cathodes (sometimes grids in older sets) and of controlling brightness. The process I describe is experimental. I would not cut pins on chips, but look at cutting a track on the board. However, this may also be very small. Sometimes a DC level is also conveyed on the same pin or track along with the blanking and other signals, so cutting it may remove the ability to control brightness. If the TV has a decent size board on the socket at the rear of the CRT that also contains the three R,G,B driver transistors, it could be worthwhile to find the three wired delivering the video drive signals that go to the board itself, and insert a low pass filter in each of them. Check the voltage and waveform on those wires. It should be low-ish like 3 to 12 volts, and in any case nowhere near 120-200V DC+ some AC. Experimentally try inserting a low pass filter made of two 10K resistors in series in the line - -the low pass part of this will be a capacitor of 1uF from the junction point of the two resistors to ground (B-). Try one color first and use a scope and a voltmeter. Or if no scope, do all 3 colors, and run a deflection pattern to see if blanking and video is removed. Check the DC voltage on each end of that filter. It should be the same or no more than 0.1V DC difference. Make sure the brightness control still works for your purposes. There will be some signal on the end of the low pass filter connected to the TV main board, and just a DC level on the end of the filter connected to the CRT amplifier/drive board. If the voltage difference is as stated above, or proportionally close to it (will depend on the eact schematic design of the video circuit overall), and you can control brightness, GOOD. Then check for signal on the end of the filter going to the CRT drive board. There should be almost none. If some low frequency signals remain, increase the capacitor to 4.7 or 10uF.
@@KRSHERprs A public notice: I seldom use this site any more, so any questions may go un-answered for indeterminate amounts of time. You should get an oscilloscope for this. Now about that blue screen and off-white color. White comes from the eye mixing the three colors red,blue,green. So the three electron beams that hit those coloed phosphor dots on the inside of the CRT face have to be present so that the TV light is white. TVs use different methods for balancing the colors/electron beam strengths, but this mostly comes from the color decoder IC if that is present. I've never tried to turn the blue screen white, and it's a total experiment, but I used to own a TV shop and repair TV sets so this should help. Here's the thing, TVs set the CRT bias be a number of methods. Some have user controls and some do not. TVs also usually have controls for the screen grid or "G2". There should be one for each color on older sets, and just one common one on newer. Not to mess with these at this point. The color IC has R,G,B outputs. You need to look at them with a scope. Assuming the brightness control works to turn the blue screen up and down, then you can try cutting the blue signal's wire (as described in my last post), and make up a jig of three resistors. 1K resistors. Connect one end of the three together as a common point. The free ends are now for the R,G,B signals going to the CRT drive board. This will place the same brightness and DC level on all three guns. The low pass filters described in the other post should remove the video (the channel number etc) . If something does not work, put the wiring back as it was before what you just did, before trying something else, so you do not start building unknown problems into your project. Now about the off-color tint of the white beam. Two things. If the brightness is so high that the CRT can't handle it or if the CRT is a little weak, the color will be off (same thing as when an overdriven guitar amp distorts). Reducing brightness from overkill to normal is a way to have the CRT perform linearly in this case. Once the blue screen is made to white (should be by the above experiment), then you can see if it varies tint when you run brightness control up and down. Run a pattern filling the screen and turn the brightness low, then adjust the R,G,B "G2" controls to where it's dim (neutral gray) and just vidible. Then upon increasign brightness it should remain white. Some TV sets do this oppositely with one 'screen or G2' control, and you must then adjust the BIAS for R,G,B to get white. set brighness low, adj RGB BIAS for grey, touch up screen if needed, then it should be white when brightness is increased. 1. all TV are somewhat different. 2. Doin the 3-way resistor off the blue screen may negate the white adjustments in sets with RGB BIAS, because you are only using the BLUE video (and DC level) 3. The low pass filter below may get rid of the channel number video, not sure how much of the blue it will neutralize. 4. the color IC detects video, then shuts off the stupid blue screen, some TV also have a menu for "blue screen off". Find the IC number and look it up to see how the blue screen (loss of signal or no video) is detected then fool it. Find the schematic for the TV set in question. These are because it's rather technical and the many possible solutions can not be described in youtube comments because it takes books. Find old used TV servicing books. Finally, you can inject your own video modulating signals to the RGB at the point between each low pass filter and the CRT amplifier/driver board. Use a 0.1uF capacitor for this at first, going larger ONLY if you do not get a low enough frequency response, and keep your video modulation voltage low, certainly no more than the TV set originally drove the CRT drive amplifier board with. (check with scope before the TV experiment) Don't want to blow any transistors. Also when connecting external signals, scopes, or anything else into the actual TV set board or chassis, the TV or signals must be isolated through a suitable transformer because many TV sets have a mostly direct path from mains to the TV's internal 'hot ground'. Ignorance of this will result in short-outs, shock hazard, maybe worse. So be careful! I have to say that because of people who have no idea what they are doing. Just ask a radio ham or repairman if it is confusing. Wish I could help more.
Also, on blaking again. Some TVs use the control grid ("G1") for blanking, and the cathodes (driven by the CRT vrive board or amplifiers) for video. If the blanking is not removed by the low pass filters described in my other posts on this video, try adding one to the wire going to the CRT's G1. Also, note that the CRT cathodes and therefore the RGB CRT drive amplifiers will have 120-200Volts on them so be careful. (A 150-volt video signal gives buzz/tingle, quite different from a touch o' the mains). But don't touch those parts while the set is on because it's quite dangerous, be careful. Also, the screen voltage or G2 voltage on that booard can be from 200V to 1000V DC, so stay well away from that as well when working on the TV.
Everytime I think you couldn't match the coolness of existing videos, I find another video where you blow my mind showing something really cool and creative. I remember Vectrix! But I never considered that you could simply feed CV to the steering circuitry of a CRT. And the results are so cool!
Did this with a small, travel tv once. The coils where pretty low impedance so i figured I'd amp them inside with a pair of lm384 or something. that was 2 year ago. still haven't gotten around to it. great video, thanks.
This brings back memories. About 25 years ago I built something similar using an RGB CRT monitor. As well as controlling the coils I mixed the two audio channels then filtered them into bass middle and treble. These signals were fed to the red, green and blue colour amplifiers. This gave some pretty wild multi coloured patterns when fed a decent stereo signal. As an aside the frequency response of the deflection coils drops off pretty sharply at higher frequencies. I used a current amplifier to drive the coils which helped but it was far from perfect.
Get a heavier leaded glass plate(like the ones on the front of oscilloscopes) to put in front of the screen and keep the brightness down. Standard tv glass is not thick enough to block the excess radiation when you concentrate the beam like that. no-one ever puts a warning on these diy scope tutorials, except for the obvious high voltage. Ps: you can get an analog scope with x/y inputs for about $50 depending on where you live.
But isn't the radiation the same, just more concentrated? Because the anode voltage is still the same and thus the energy of each electron should be the same.
Not exactly, The concentration is mostly from the absence of raster blanking when the deflection coil is disconnected from the tv's pcb, coupled with the fact that tv glass is thinner & has lower lead oxide concentration than a monitor/scope (because you arent supposed to sit right in front of it). Not to mention alot of older b/w tvs have unleaded glass/ 25kv+ plates. It's not an issue for occasional/live visuals, but if you were using it as a waveform visualizer constantly, with the brightness turned up like it was in this video, it could cause some problems. ps: the electrons come off the cathode in a crt.
That's why you should use a separate yoke, leave the one there (remove it and replace it with a different yoke from another similar TV) to provide the voltage but using a separate yoke and just the power output of a audio power amp to provide the signal to the carrier will give a much better display and you can use the TV's contrast controls as well. If you only use the yoke with the higher voltage, you tend to burn out the screen, only stands to reason and you can not use the TV biasing controls. I don't know if there's much info available but try looking up Lizzy Scope. The coils on the yoke act like those in a speaker only where the magnetic fields are produced is different. One is for moving a cone on a speak and one is used to ride the carrier of the electron gun. Fit a separate yoke on the end of the tube will make a big difference and it more fun too LOL One you hear and one you see.
It has nothing to do with "coils" - You need to make some circuitry that can control the electron guns (high voltage - approx 100V), and that way, you can have different colors.
well, since he didn't touched the electron guns supposedly he could still use the tuner to control them. maybe by tuning into live tv and getting random colors, or getting an RCA to [TUNER THINGY] adapter and send colors from another source. If the tuner works this may be a lot quicker (and safer) than messing with the electron guns directly as they require HV to work.
I wished more guys like him lived in my neighborhood! I would feel less like a geek, and knowledge of multiple geeks can be turned into a geek squad / army!
Great looking results! I first did this mod over 55 years ago, feeding low-pass audio to the horizontal and high pass to the vertical. Simple R-C networks worked best for the filtering. I couldn't afford a synthesiser on my schoolboy's pocket money. Important note regarding discharging the CRT: A lot of charge can come back to bite you, even after you have discharged it once. Repeat after a few minutes. Very important if you are ever changing CRTs, as you are likely to drop a CRT if it bites! Also do not leave a static bright spot on the screen. The concentrated beam energy can permanently burn a dark spot into the phosphor.
"the great thing about old school manufacturers is that theyre not dickheads and make you buy a new one" Apple summarised (or like anything new these days) I wish more stuff was so easy to take apart
. You have blown my mind, and I'm, not a techie. I'm a Liberal Arts and Sciences kind of geek. . There ae times I am deep into a piece of music, eyes closed, head back, relaxed, just listening. Sometimes it is music I've never heard before. Just grasp that first. . Then... I will have visuals (eyes shut, mind you). What are they like? They are like what you just showed on that television screen. Undulating. Weaving in and out. Looping back on itself. Twisting. Inverting. Spiraling, Spinning, Unwinding. Expanding and contracting. Typically in some combination of any of those. And all in the timing, beat, rhythm, pitch, chord progressions, timbre, tempo of the music. It is a show, often elusive, that I try to keep with me as long as I can. . Now, here you come along and you show on a television what I see in three dimensions. . Are you flippin' kidding me !!!? . But thanks. Really. I'm gong to be thinking about that all day.
Good to see someone young mucking about with stuff I was doing 45 years ago - we used to call them Lissajous curves. Make the most of it, another 5 years and all the CRTs will be gone forever.
Any recommendations on an amp? I've been scouring the internet for an older used one or something new. Converting from 1/4" to RCA then speaker wire to 1/4" seems daunting
In the 80s I did this on numerous TVs. First thing I learned, the circuitry stops working if you just disconnect the deflection yoke. Best thing to do is hang the existing yoke somewhere inside the case and put another deflection yoke on the CRT neck. I didn't have polyphonic oscillators to work with so I'd find music with long bass notes. Mitternacht from the B side of Kraftwerk-Autobahn was a good song to use. There was always a bias in music sources so you wouldn't get a symmetrical lissajous pattern, the shapes tended to have a diagonal attractor. In the late 80s I started doing cheap laser shows for my Brother's band. I made galvanometers with two old speakers and broken chunks of mirror and set it up on a 12X18 plywood board. Worked great, but had the same diagonal bias issue when using music. Jean-Michel Jarre made some good laser music too. Had a $300 5w he-ne laser. Eventually I got my hands on an aqua colored argon laser and a beautiful indigo helium-cadmium laser. These were the size of a 1990s PC and large CRT monitor with a thick umbilical between power supply and laser head. Today's cheap ubiquitous laser diodes make these huge gas lasers look ridiculous.
i gave it a go! it looked hella wonky and dodgy hahaha. so this method isnt that good! purely becuase the X and Y coils are different strengths, the up and down one is HUGE and the left right one is small but further back. must make it a bit squwiffy
Could you try using two separate amplifiers, one for the X direction and another for the Y? Then just adjust them until the two directions are about the same strengths? Loved the vid btw.
I bought a tiny CRT for (the Czech equivalent of) $4, and I have some little amps rolling around, so I will give this a shot. If I can make a quick vid of it with my phone, I could post it.
yeah, i was looking for this, i've already done some kind of non-triggered o-scope (crap) years ago with a lucky TV and i'm trying to figure out how to do this on a regular TV.... infos? (if you're still around) maybe a dummy inductor of same value?
This explains my problem!!! I was so disappointed that I could only get one angle... and got zapped by my audio source chassis (!) I was using a 90s RCA... how far back does one have to go to avoid this??
@@redoverdrivetheunstoppable4637 I'm still around but TH-cam isn't notifying me of your reply. A separate inductor should work, though I've never tried it. Heck if you can find a delection coil from a similar tube that would work. Just make sure to use the horizontal because the vertical is different.
@@vertefish the earliest TVs I've worked on were from the 50s and they worked the same way. I don't know that I've ever seen a TV or monitor that didn't work this way, but I've never been looking for that. It's a safety feature: apparently deflection coils burning open must have been common at one time. Because the reason they use that coil in the HV oscillator is so that when that coil opens up you don't burn the phosphors in the centre of the tube.
@@KC9UDX i succeeded at making an oscillograph, i fitted an inductor of similar value on the horizontal circuit with a series resistor to copy the yoke (away frome the picture tube otherwise it drives the beam a bit), same thing on the vertical section to fool some protections, rotated the yoke 90°, adjusted brightness on the three colors, used a 12V bridge amplifier chip (car radio style) to drive the thing and a func. gen. to generate a triangular wave for one axis, the only two problems i found are the coils that prefer current drive instead of voltage (the movement is non-linear if driven voltagewise and i don't know how to make a power current amplifier) and the vertical coil (now horizontal) is a bit deaf to high frequencies yeah youtube sucks at delivering notifications, i've also discovered people offending me only after some time, this changes little but WTF!!! some say it's a tactic to direct people less on the comments and more on the videos to visualize more ads... that's a downer and it sucks
I assume that I haven't discovered your channel because I live in America, but this made me subscribe. Good job, the satire naration really helped me understand what was going on better.
I love CRTs, this is the best humor ive seen on the subject. you're a genius who knows how to act like an idiot. congratulations on hitting 2million views with your furby organ, love the channel man
I love and hate CRTs at the same time I love the nostalgia, the mods you can do, the high pitch whine and the refresh rate I hate how fragile and heavy they are and how dangerous
You'd be a twat to take them apart though. They're valuable, and more than that they're rare, only so many left in the world. And more than THAT, is they're fuckin' awesome! They're absolutely great machines, in lots of ways. To scrap one, just to get a CRT, when there's a million CRTs getting thrown away every day, is sinful.
@@greenaum i have a vectrex in the original box from 1986, still works, its all original, even has the plastic screen overlay. till this day the best thing i own, i love it.
Obviously, you test it as to how you test it.. well. i assume that you have some basic level of electronics knowledge, in which case , me saying "You test for it" should be enough now.. if it's not enough and you don't have that basic level of electronics knowledge IT MEANS YOU NEED TO LEARN BASIC ELECTRONICS and hence, is the reason why you are asking the question so... you decide which one you are do you a) understand my answer or b) need to go away and learn Electronics basics FYI, if you don't know your basic electronics, YOU SHOULDN'T BE PLAYING WITH A CRT, it's dangerous
Oh sorry I wasn’t aware. I thought it just bypassed everything and tapped straight to the deflection coils themselves. They have a board on the actual tube itself then? Interesting. That explains why Andrew is able to get them bigger without amplification. Cool thanks for that!
Your vidz get better and better! I said just last night to my mate whilst drinking beers "I need an oscilloscope" and you post this :) Genius. I need one of these....... 'nuff luv :)
At 6:38 I blacked out ... then snapped out of it an hour later. I was out side and 2 miles away. I had 3 t-shirts on, a can of grape soda in my pants pocket and a BRAND NEW Crate tube amp in a shopping cart that had a Furby strapped to the front. Thanks for the amp mate.
Neat! I'd just recommend putting a 4 Ohm resistor in series with each coil, just to ensure the amplifier doesn't see too high an inductive load. Cheerio!
Seriously. all seriousness. like i mention in the video. it is dangerous to play around with CRT's especially when charged, and always make sure it is fully discharged! make sure to research
I used to take TV's apart when i was 10. There must be some acid heads out their tripping balls on your images :D
It's 3 at night I just want to sleep but this is so exciting. I am tripping for sure.
No joke.
How did you attach the wire (for discharging), without touching the insides?
2:30 SERIOUSLY: most of those screwdrivers only are insulated up to a few single-digit 1kV - there's no way they could insulate against 40kV or any other Voltage used in common CRTs! So what you're doing might have seriously shocked if not killed you - if there were any amount of serious current on it! & while the hv caps in CRTs have a tendency to accumulate static electricity from all the em foobar floating around, the current & hence overall energy you might get out of it is hopefully often not enough to kill you - but due to the transformers the voltages is likely high enough to shock at least!
I imagine this guy as a sort of cyberpunk underground musician who goes scavenging for scraps and old electrical equipment in a dystopian world a la Blade Runner and he's the center of a rebel organization
He's the leader of a group of cyber-scavengers who use frequencies from their homemade synthesizers to wreak havoc on the robot overlords of the future.
I love that you just described the character Blank Reg without realizing it.
Look up a show called "Max Headroom" if you get a chance. You might like it.
+stockicide oh shit lmao that sounds amazing
I’d read that fanfic
true and also giving an viual form of sound withch mean we can alphabetize the sound then create a real new language.of course against the skynet bot domination obviously
"The great thing about old school appliance manufacturers, is they're not selfish dickheads that make you buy new things when something doesn't work"
Love this
👍 very true.
"Now imagine if Apple or... something was this nice. The world would be a better place."
Yep, that guy has earned a subscription.
Away from Singer you cannot hold this statment for long. Lifespam was bigger, because the mony you have inverted in this TV was about 6 month incomes, probably more. Now you pay a fraction of one income and that is what you get. But even if you were not willing to do that, they added SW and FW to everything so they are guaranteed to be obsolete, even if they are not broke. Just turn into heavy equipment, like trucks and trains, they still last decades .. difference is they are not mass consumer items.
Tis very true
Man! Those shapes were stunning... I loved how the scribbles would seem to rotate in 3D space!
Oh hey it's you
Sure is it's mesmerizing I like cool shapes like that
This guy is one radioactive bite away from being a comic book bad guy. I love it!
He's the modern day *Yahoo Serious* from _Young Einstein._
He'll just EQ tf outta your vocals
he already looks like heinz Doofenshmirtz, COOL
Idk why put i picture him eating fistfulls of E and building all this crazy amazing dj shit lol
He wouldn’t actually be a bad guy though just misunderstood as the story unfolds
1:39 Truer words have never been said. Great vid!
Harvey Rothman if
Harvey Rothman FUCK YEA
That's where I subbed
Agreed
World before Apple and stupid fanboys who have no idea what consumer rights are.
Just remember, to any wanna-be electronic tweekers - It doesn't matter what size the CRT, 30+ inch or 3 inch, the voltages needed to make the electron gun work are most definitely *lethal* . The capacitor connected to the electrode of the "picture tube" can store a lethal charge for years and needs to be discharged as shown in the video ... although a 100 ohm, 10 amp resistor between the screwdriver and the ground wire is probably a bit safer.
not quite always and automatically lethal because i have been shocked a few times in my learning days and am still alive...most tvs DONT hold a charge but some do......the ones that DO they hold it for hours maybe days...there are a FEW that hold charge for a very long time....screwdriver method is standard procedure and safe IF you are not dumb.....the charge may be 10 or 20kv but very low amps and it will be a fraction of a second of shock so if you suffer heart disease it MAY kill you but very unlikely...it will throw you back and it may hurt.....but much more dangerous is putting a finger on a socket with 220v and leaving it there till you die because you can have sockets connected to 16amp breakers or even higher so it will fry you before tripping the breaker if the house does not have a differential breaker....
@@MrHBSoftware
Yup. I actually touched a 240v socket in moment of innattention when I was dismantling/modifying a guitar amp back in high school.
Middle finger of my left hand if I recall… oh man..
I'm not going to lie, there was a moment there when the sound and the image lined up so beautifully together that I teared up a bit. This is great art.
3D hologram of what electricity sounds like. Absolutely beautiful.
You're like a mad scientist.
Ney....
an ENGLISH Mad Scientist
Do I just watch this in reverse to turn a oscilloscope into a TV?
I realize this is joking, but now i'm kinda actually curious about hooking an o-scope up to the deflection coil leads of a TV tuner....
Hand-drawn look?
th-cam.com/video/-FK7hy5usYE/w-d-xo.html
maybe I'll get noise ( thinking to start from a video signal like a tv show )
get yourself a saw-tooth signal generator that has a trigger/synchronize input. You'll need an X/Y scope that also has an intensity input. They can be kind of hard to find, especially compared to finding an old broken TV
I made one of these gizmos forty years ago for my disco rig . Made it from a black and white tv where the verticle sweep was gone . I still have it , never fails to start a conversation from those who see it for the first time . Science !
the skeleton killed me, had to pause to laugh for a while
MaghoxFr Great sound effect too
don't do it that at home
Dont become that skeleton tho lol
I want that as a gif hahaha
The world needs more happy loonies like this man.
Some TV-esque points for those wanting to try this excellent project!
1. Deflection Yoke
Short explanation:
It is best to leave the existing yoke and CRT neck magnets unmolested in place as the video implies but did not state. An inductor with the same inductance is optimally connected to the TV set's horizontal deflection circuitry to replace the now-disconnected horizontal yoke winding. The vertical winding may simply be disconnected from the TV and used for audio with no consequence.
More:
The inductance of the yoke horizontal deflection windings are used during horizontal trace to store energy used for making the high voltage. With the flyback transformer, the H yoke part of a tuned circuit and inductance value is important for long life and safe operation.
During retrace, the energy is discharged from the yoke into the flyback (high voltage) transformer in the form of a pulse. The term 'flyback' is the old vernacular term for retrace, because the spot on the CRT flys back across the screen (though it's blanked/unseen). The pulse is stepped up by the flyback transformer and rectified (voltage tripler may be used as rectifier-filter), to provide the 23-30KV needed by the CRT HV anode.
In most modern (70s-90s) solid state TV sets similar to the one shown, the flyback transformer also acts as the power transformer, in that it provides what is called 'derived power'. As the transformer is driven by the horizontal output transistor, the retrace pulse from the is stepped down from the 900V output transistor pulse and rectified to make the 150-250 volts for the video amplifiers, and the trace waveform (while the transistor is ON) is stepped down and rectified to provide the various low voltages like 5 to 30V that operate the other circuits of the set. These DC voltages are called 'derived' power. This was oversimplified but no one wants to read a whole book.
This is done to avoid a large and costly power transformer. The other benefit is that, since the high voltage is regulated, all other voltages from the same transformer will also be as well-regulated.
Thus the reasons for substituing a proper inductance for the horizontal yoke winding (It must not saturate either). The cheap way is to steal a yoke of similar inductance (+/-10%) from another TV and use that for the substitute yoke. The right way is to find/buy the correct inductance.
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-->2. other options:
I noticed in the video that the original TV set CRT beam-blanking circuit was doing its job, but this is only needed when scanning a synchronized image like video or when moving the beam from one drawn object to another in a vector display (different blanking circuit for that).
For a vector or X-Y scope as shown, remove the blanking signal while keeping the brightness control (CRT bias) and contrast control (video amplifier gain) circuits intact.
The brighness control's use need no explanation, but a voltage or additional resistance affecting the brightness control can be externally applied in concert with the existing brightness control to blank the screen when no vector signals are present. It's done in gaming and military displays to prevent screen burn. The brightness control affects all three electron guns (RGB) at once in a color set. Most CRTs have a single control grid for this purpose.
The contrast control is like a volume control in an audio amp. It controls the gain of all three individual video amplifier channels (RGB) at the same time, but these control signals can be broken out to control the amplifiers individually. It's simple from there to use the scope as shown with music, but with an external electronic crossover, assign for example, red to bass, green to midrange, and blue to highs. Low-voltage analog signals can thereby vary the intensity of the R, G, and B electron beams to add to the effects. This assumes the original yoke and convergence/centering magnets on the CRT neck are unmolested and the set had good convergence and purity before conversion.
In the 1980s, I worked with a performance art group and modified many TV sets for this audio and color oscilloscope use. The large square cabinet type TVs allowed everything to be mounted inside the cabinet with just an audio jack for input from the mix board. In some products, the TV set's speaker was connected through a little transformer to the now-internal amplifier's input, so it responded to ambient sound.
A caveat is that solid state amps of the day didn't like the inductive load of the H and V yokes and sometimes would blow out. So we used old public address tube amps. 20 Watts for H and for V was often enough. Frequently to get the lissajous figures from a music or voice source, I would put a speaker-type crossover after the amp, and drive the vertical windings for lower frequencies and the horizontal windings for high frequencies. That with the individual video (color) channels was very entertaining. Modification of these crossover circuit values to tailor the crossover points to a specific yoke (because it's certainly not a 4 or 8 ohm load) was occasionally needed to get best results.
I hope those who enjoy the work done in the video will be aided in their efforts to do the same. There are a lot of CRT videos, but i chose to comment on this one because it's cooly presented and the artist has a lot of electronics skills.
Did this project and I have two questions:
How do I remove the blanking signal? I assume I have to cut a pin off from the jungle chip right?
Second, instead of a getting a white beam I get a blue one with a bit of yellow, which were the colors from the TV when there's no signal connected (all blue backdrop with yellow letters saying VIDEO on the upper left corner), how can I get just the white beam?
@@KRSHERprs A public notice: I seldom use this site any more, so any questions may go un-answered for indeterminate amounts of time.
OK to try to answer your question, almost every TV set has slightly different ways of adding blanking pulses to the RGB signals going to the CRT cathodes (sometimes grids in older sets) and of controlling brightness. The process I describe is experimental. I would not cut pins on chips, but look at cutting a track on the board. However, this may also be very small. Sometimes a DC level is also conveyed on the same pin or track along with the blanking and other signals, so cutting it may remove the ability to control brightness.
If the TV has a decent size board on the socket at the rear of the CRT that also contains the three R,G,B driver transistors, it could be worthwhile to find the three wired delivering the video drive signals that go to the board itself, and insert a low pass filter in each of them. Check the voltage and waveform on those wires. It should be low-ish like 3 to 12 volts, and in any case nowhere near 120-200V DC+ some AC. Experimentally try inserting a low pass filter made of two 10K resistors in series in the line - -the low pass part of this will be a capacitor of 1uF from the junction point of the two resistors to ground (B-).
Try one color first and use a scope and a voltmeter. Or if no scope, do all 3 colors, and run a deflection pattern to see if blanking and video is removed.
Check the DC voltage on each end of that filter. It should be the same or no more than 0.1V DC difference. Make sure the brightness control still works for your purposes. There will be some signal on the end of the low pass filter connected to the TV main board, and just a DC level on the end of the filter connected to the CRT amplifier/drive board. If the voltage difference is as stated above, or proportionally close to it (will depend on the eact schematic design of the video circuit overall), and you can control brightness, GOOD. Then check for signal on the end of the filter going to the CRT drive board. There should be almost none. If some low frequency signals remain, increase the capacitor to 4.7 or 10uF.
@@KRSHERprs A public notice: I seldom use this site any more, so any questions may go un-answered for indeterminate amounts of time.
You should get an oscilloscope for this. Now about that blue screen and off-white color. White comes from the eye mixing the three colors red,blue,green. So the three electron beams that hit those coloed phosphor dots on the inside of the CRT face have to be present so that the TV light is white. TVs use different methods for balancing the colors/electron beam strengths, but this mostly comes from the color decoder IC if that is present. I've never tried to turn the blue screen white, and it's a total experiment, but I used to own a TV shop and repair TV sets so this should help. Here's the thing, TVs set the CRT bias be a number of methods. Some have user controls and some do not. TVs also usually have controls for the screen grid or "G2". There should be one for each color on older sets, and just one common one on newer. Not to mess with these at this point. The color IC has R,G,B outputs. You need to look at them with a scope. Assuming the brightness control works to turn the blue screen up and down, then you can try cutting the blue signal's wire (as described in my last post), and make up a jig of three resistors. 1K resistors. Connect one end of the three together as a common point. The free ends are now for the R,G,B signals going to the CRT drive board. This will place the same brightness and DC level on all three guns. The low pass filters described in the other post should remove the video (the channel number etc) . If something does not work, put the wiring back as it was before what you just did, before trying something else, so you do not start building unknown problems into your project.
Now about the off-color tint of the white beam. Two things. If the brightness is so high that the CRT can't handle it or if the CRT is a little weak, the color will be off (same thing as when an overdriven guitar amp distorts). Reducing brightness from overkill to normal is a way to have the CRT perform linearly in this case. Once the blue screen is made to white (should be by the above experiment), then you can see if it varies tint when you run brightness control up and down. Run a pattern filling the screen and turn the brightness low, then adjust the R,G,B "G2" controls to where it's dim (neutral gray) and just vidible. Then upon increasign brightness it should remain white.
Some TV sets do this oppositely with one 'screen or G2' control, and you must then adjust the BIAS for R,G,B to get white. set brighness low, adj RGB BIAS for grey, touch up screen if needed, then it should be white when brightness is increased.
1. all TV are somewhat different.
2. Doin the 3-way resistor off the blue screen may negate the white adjustments in sets with RGB BIAS, because you are only using the BLUE video (and DC level)
3. The low pass filter below may get rid of the channel number video, not sure how much of the blue it will neutralize.
4. the color IC detects video, then shuts off the stupid blue screen, some TV also have a menu for "blue screen off". Find the IC number and look it up to see how the blue screen (loss of signal or no video) is detected then fool it. Find the schematic for the TV set in question. These are because it's rather technical and the many possible solutions can not be described in youtube comments because it takes books. Find old used TV servicing books.
Finally, you can inject your own video modulating signals to the RGB at the point between each low pass filter and the CRT amplifier/driver board. Use a 0.1uF capacitor for this at first, going larger ONLY if you do not get a low enough frequency response, and keep your video modulation voltage low, certainly no more than the TV set originally drove the CRT drive amplifier board with. (check with scope before the TV experiment) Don't want to blow any transistors.
Also when connecting external signals, scopes, or anything else into the actual TV set board or chassis, the TV or signals must be isolated through a suitable transformer because many TV sets have a mostly direct path from mains to the TV's internal 'hot ground'. Ignorance of this will result in short-outs, shock hazard, maybe worse. So be careful! I have to say that because of people who have no idea what they are doing. Just ask a radio ham or repairman if it is confusing.
Wish I could help more.
Also, on blaking again. Some TVs use the control grid ("G1") for blanking, and the cathodes (driven by the CRT vrive board or amplifiers) for video. If the blanking is not removed by the low pass filters described in my other posts on this video, try adding one to the wire going to the CRT's G1. Also, note that the CRT cathodes and therefore the RGB CRT drive amplifiers will have 120-200Volts on them so be careful. (A 150-volt video signal gives buzz/tingle, quite different from a touch o' the mains). But don't touch those parts while the set is on because it's quite dangerous, be careful. Also, the screen voltage or G2 voltage on that booard can be from 200V to 1000V DC, so stay well away from that as well when working on the TV.
This is possibly my favourite of your projects yet! Super simple (AND ALSO DANGEROUS), but FAB results. Love what you do, keep the vids coming mate!
Everytime I think you couldn't match the coolness of existing videos, I find another video where you blow my mind showing something really cool and creative. I remember Vectrix! But I never considered that you could simply feed CV to the steering circuitry of a CRT. And the results are so cool!
The tongue touch electrocution effect was quite well done. Upvoted for that alone
Did this with a small, travel tv once.
The coils where pretty low impedance so i figured I'd amp them inside with a pair of lm384 or something.
that was 2 year ago. still haven't gotten around to it.
great video, thanks.
I just found your channel by accident and it's the greatest thing that has happened to me in a while.
Your channel and the way you do your videos is awesome! Thanks for showing us all these stuff! I love Electronics behind electronic music!
This brings back memories. About 25 years ago I built something similar using an RGB CRT monitor. As well as controlling the coils I mixed the two audio channels then filtered them into bass middle and treble. These signals were fed to the red, green and blue colour amplifiers. This gave some pretty wild multi coloured patterns when fed a decent stereo signal.
As an aside the frequency response of the deflection coils drops off pretty sharply at higher frequencies. I used a current amplifier to drive the coils which helped but it was far from perfect.
Get a heavier leaded glass plate(like the ones on the front of oscilloscopes) to put in front of the screen and keep the brightness down. Standard tv glass is not thick enough to block the excess radiation when you concentrate the beam like that. no-one ever puts a warning on these diy scope tutorials, except for the obvious high voltage. Ps: you can get an analog scope with x/y inputs for about $50 depending on where you live.
But isn't the radiation the same, just more concentrated? Because the anode voltage is still the same and thus the energy of each electron should be the same.
Not exactly, The concentration is mostly from the absence of raster blanking when the deflection coil is disconnected from the tv's pcb, coupled with the fact that tv glass is thinner & has lower lead oxide concentration than a monitor/scope (because you arent supposed to sit right in front of it). Not to mention alot of older b/w tvs have unleaded glass/ 25kv+ plates. It's not an issue for occasional/live visuals, but if you were using it as a waveform visualizer constantly, with the brightness turned up like it was in this video, it could cause some problems. ps: the electrons come off the cathode in a crt.
This! That and you have a higher likelihood of burning the screen when there's a concentrated beam
Any more ways to prevent this? I am definitely trying to make one of these and now you've got me nervous. How about a tiny CRT?
That's why you should use a separate yoke, leave the one there (remove it and replace it with a different yoke from another similar TV) to provide the voltage but using a separate yoke and just the power output of a audio power amp to provide the signal to the carrier will give a much better display and you can use the TV's contrast controls as well. If you only use the yoke with the higher voltage, you tend to burn out the screen, only stands to reason and you can not use the TV biasing controls. I don't know if there's much info available but try looking up Lizzy Scope. The coils on the yoke act like those in a speaker only where the magnetic fields are produced is different. One is for moving a cone on a speak and one is used to ride the carrier of the electron gun. Fit a separate yoke on the end of the tube will make a big difference and it more fun too LOL One you hear and one you see.
The beauty of sound! I could watch and hear this all day long!
I think someone locked you in the basement since the late 80s
Dimitris Andreou hahaha
HAAHAHAHAHHH that's it
Haha
I think he locked himself in the basement, it's all good... lol
I love the fact that we actually "see" the sounds! Great vid again!
acid. dark room. this machine
exactly....!
Dangerous for mere mortals :D
where can I sign up?
laiskapyykki oh man, I wouldn’t be able to handle it! I’m already tripping without the acid thing... 😅
...microphone... FARTS
Literally have been trying to figure out how to turn sound into image!!!!! Thank you so much!! 1am viewing never lets ya down!
Keep up, this channel going to be big.
Landwelder indeed
@@evenforapig Wise words! Look ma 2020 here! :D
He called it
Sam... you’re awesome brother. Thanks for the laughs and absolutely wicked visuals. Always love your videos and work.
now make a selector switch for different coils for red green or blue colors on color TVs
It has nothing to do with "coils" - You need to make some circuitry that can control the electron guns (high voltage - approx 100V), and that way, you can have different colors.
well, since he didn't touched the electron guns supposedly he could still use the tuner to control them. maybe by tuning into live tv and getting random colors, or getting an RCA to [TUNER THINGY] adapter and send colors from another source. If the tuner works this may be a lot quicker (and safer) than messing with the electron guns directly as they require HV to work.
this is honestly one of the coolest things ive ever seen
I like to imagine him as the head of Research and Development of the Salvation Army
Most humorous and informative TH-cam channel I’ve found to date .
This is my first 'Look Mum No Computer' video. It shan't be my last.
You gotta a good attitude.
The end is incredibly incredible, cheers to that
I wished more guys like him lived in my neighborhood! I would feel less like a geek, and knowledge of multiple geeks can be turned into a geek squad / army!
Great looking results!
I first did this mod over 55 years ago, feeding low-pass audio to the horizontal and high pass to the vertical. Simple R-C networks worked best for the filtering.
I couldn't afford a synthesiser on my schoolboy's pocket money.
Important note regarding discharging the CRT:
A lot of charge can come back to bite you, even after you have discharged it once.
Repeat after a few minutes. Very important if you are ever changing CRTs, as you are likely to drop a CRT if it bites!
Also do not leave a static bright spot on the screen. The concentrated beam energy can permanently burn a dark spot into the phosphor.
"the great thing about old school manufacturers is that theyre not dickheads and make you buy a new one"
Apple summarised (or like anything new these days)
I wish more stuff was so easy to take apart
As always, I love the little panel interface you placed on the side of the TV. Awesome work!
I have always been a fan of this TV hack... I really need to get around to doing it. This inspires me, well done. ::hunts for old tv::
. You have blown my mind, and I'm, not a techie. I'm a Liberal Arts and Sciences kind of geek.
. There ae times I am deep into a piece of music, eyes closed, head back, relaxed, just listening. Sometimes it is music I've never heard before. Just grasp that first.
. Then... I will have visuals (eyes shut, mind you). What are they like? They are like what you just showed on that television screen. Undulating. Weaving in and out. Looping back on itself. Twisting. Inverting. Spiraling, Spinning, Unwinding. Expanding and contracting. Typically in some combination of any of those. And all in the timing, beat, rhythm, pitch, chord progressions, timbre, tempo of the music. It is a show, often elusive, that I try to keep with me as long as I can.
. Now, here you come along and you show on a television what I see in three dimensions.
. Are you flippin' kidding me !!!?
. But thanks. Really. I'm gong to be thinking about that all day.
"There should never be more than one dot!"
-Rick
5:50
I was waiting for the guy who had a testicle instead of his head
This absolutely blew my mind. I don't understand what I just saw, but I love it
HOW the hell do you have so little subscribers?? Yor content is great!@!
He has a bigger audience at facebook.
but you´re right!
Very high quality, but I guess not a lot of people want to see electronics stuff
And because people these days Reject Creativity and 80s Culture im not one of them i grew up in the 80s
Because there are too much dumb people out there.
Agreed. Subscribe here and now!
Good to see someone young mucking about with stuff I was doing 45 years ago - we used to call them Lissajous curves.
Make the most of it, another 5 years and all the CRTs will be gone forever.
thi dude has a production crew behind him. this is like some neo bill nye shit.
This is a breath of fresh air. Love it
5:30 Im making that my new ring tone😂😂just perfect for library's!!
Fun Project! Did this with smaller television through an amplifier connected to computer. My lines are red, with a sweet glow. Love it!
Any recommendations on an amp? I've been scouring the internet for an older used one or something new. Converting from 1/4" to RCA then speaker wire to 1/4" seems daunting
This guy plays a good goofball but we all know he’s just a genius in disguise
This may be the best channel on TH-cam.
I AM GENUINELY IN LOVE WITH YOU AND WANT TO COLLABORATE ON A WEIRD SONG AND THEN GET MARRIED AND PLAY FOREVER THIS CHANNEL IS AMAZING!!!
In the 80s I did this on numerous TVs. First thing I learned, the circuitry stops working if you just disconnect the deflection yoke. Best thing to do is hang the existing yoke somewhere inside the case and put another deflection yoke on the CRT neck.
I didn't have polyphonic oscillators to work with so I'd find music with long bass notes. Mitternacht from the B side of Kraftwerk-Autobahn was a good song to use. There was always a bias in music sources so you wouldn't get a symmetrical lissajous pattern, the shapes tended to have a diagonal attractor.
In the late 80s I started doing cheap laser shows for my Brother's band. I made galvanometers with two old speakers and broken chunks of mirror and set it up on a 12X18 plywood board. Worked great, but had the same diagonal bias issue when using music. Jean-Michel Jarre made some good laser music too. Had a $300 5w he-ne laser. Eventually I got my hands on an aqua colored argon laser and a beautiful indigo helium-cadmium laser. These were the size of a 1990s PC and large CRT monitor with a thick umbilical between power supply and laser head. Today's cheap ubiquitous laser diodes make these huge gas lasers look ridiculous.
Now try playing Jerobeam Fenderson's music on it!
i gave it a go! it looked hella wonky and dodgy hahaha. so this method isnt that good! purely becuase the X and Y coils are different strengths, the up and down one is HUGE and the left right one is small but further back. must make it a bit squwiffy
Could you try using two separate amplifiers, one for the X direction and another for the Y? Then just adjust them until the two directions are about the same strengths? Loved the vid btw.
Luis this is what I want to know, x-y oscilloscopes seem kinda unobtainable
adjusting the PAN you don't need two amps, you can give different volume to L and R outs
I bought a tiny CRT for (the Czech equivalent of) $4, and I have some little amps rolling around, so I will give this a shot. If I can make a quick vid of it with my phone, I could post it.
This is the best XY osciallator I ever seen. And the largest.
Many TVs use the horizontal deflection coil as part of the flyback circuit. Disconnect it and you lose your CRT high voltage supply.
yeah, i was looking for this, i've already done some kind of non-triggered o-scope (crap) years ago with a lucky TV and i'm trying to figure out how to do this on a regular TV.... infos? (if you're still around) maybe a dummy inductor of same value?
This explains my problem!!! I was so disappointed that I could only get one angle... and got zapped by my audio source chassis (!) I was using a 90s RCA... how far back does one have to go to avoid this??
@@redoverdrivetheunstoppable4637 I'm still around but TH-cam isn't notifying me of your reply. A separate inductor should work, though I've never tried it. Heck if you can find a delection coil from a similar tube that would work. Just make sure to use the horizontal because the vertical is different.
@@vertefish the earliest TVs I've worked on were from the 50s and they worked the same way. I don't know that I've ever seen a TV or monitor that didn't work this way, but I've never been looking for that.
It's a safety feature: apparently deflection coils burning open must have been common at one time. Because the reason they use that coil in the HV oscillator is so that when that coil opens up you don't burn the phosphors in the centre of the tube.
@@KC9UDX i succeeded at making an oscillograph, i fitted an inductor of similar value on the horizontal circuit with a series resistor to copy the yoke (away frome the picture tube otherwise it drives the beam a bit), same thing on the vertical section to fool some protections, rotated the yoke 90°, adjusted brightness on the three colors, used a 12V bridge amplifier chip (car radio style) to drive the thing and a func. gen. to generate a triangular wave for one axis, the only two problems i found are the coils that prefer current drive instead of voltage (the movement is non-linear if driven voltagewise and i don't know how to make a power current amplifier) and the vertical coil (now horizontal) is a bit deaf to high frequencies
yeah youtube sucks at delivering notifications, i've also discovered people offending me only after some time, this changes little but WTF!!! some say it's a tactic to direct people less on the comments and more on the videos to visualize more ads... that's a downer and it sucks
That's epic! I used to love the Vortex racing game in arcades back when I was a youth but never knew the name. Thanks for the education.
I've got one of those old only green monitors lying around and have been wondering how to do exactly this! Well timed video.
I assume that I haven't discovered your channel because I live in America, but this made me subscribe. Good job, the satire naration really helped me understand what was going on better.
Just remember what me mum always said "DON'T SIT TOO CLOSE!" :O Cheers!
Keep going mate. The way you shares your knowledge is just brilliant. All the best and thanks. I’m really happy I found your channel.
I love CRTs, this is the best humor ive seen on the subject. you're a genius who knows how to act like an idiot. congratulations on hitting 2million views with your furby organ, love the channel man
I love and hate CRTs at the same time
I love the nostalgia, the mods you can do, the high pitch whine and the refresh rate
I hate how fragile and heavy they are and how dangerous
I remember this, but still I was amazed to see it working. Really cool!
Got zapped once by a computer monitor.
Made me question my choices in life.
You sir, are amazing. Your work is CRAZY awesome. and your personality is fabulous.
2:19 “Firty Fousand Folts”
I'd love to see a tour of your place. You have TONS of awesome pieces of equipment and projects laying around.
The plural of Vectrex is Vectrices.
ok, if i'm ever on WHO WANTS TO BE A MILLIONAIRE i'll remember this
and if i don't, i'll use you as my CALL A FRIEND lifeline hehe
You'd be a twat to take them apart though. They're valuable, and more than that they're rare, only so many left in the world. And more than THAT, is they're fuckin' awesome! They're absolutely great machines, in lots of ways. To scrap one, just to get a CRT, when there's a million CRTs getting thrown away every day, is sinful.
@@greenaum i have a vectrex in the original box from 1986, still works, its all original, even has the plastic screen overlay. till this day the best thing i own, i love it.
Even tho i dont care about music creation and oscilloscopes it was fabulous to watch. The way you talk about things makes it interesting ))
How do you know which one is the x and which one is the y when building it?
It doesn't matter, just swap the cables on the front of the TV if you want it the other way around.
Obviously, you test it
as to how you test it..
well. i assume that you have some basic level of electronics knowledge, in which case , me saying "You test for it" should be enough
now.. if it's not enough and you don't have that basic level of electronics knowledge
IT MEANS YOU NEED TO LEARN BASIC ELECTRONICS and hence, is the reason why you are asking the question
so... you decide which one you are
do you
a) understand my answer
or
b) need to go away and learn Electronics basics
FYI, if you don't know your basic electronics, YOU SHOULDN'T BE PLAYING WITH A CRT, it's dangerous
Alright, what the hell. Your content is absolutely top notch. Never stop!
Well. Not lightning quick. The Vectrex deflection circuitry needs an upgrade to be lightning quick. For now it's just fast.
its bypassing the deflection circuitry in andrews mod, but yeah. i mean its just a figure of speach. relatively speedy
The mod bypasses the logic board output deflection. But not the deflection circuitry on the Vectrex's Power Board. Where part of the problem exists.
Oh sorry I wasn’t aware. I thought it just bypassed everything and tapped straight to the deflection coils themselves. They have a board on the actual tube itself then? Interesting. That explains why Andrew is able to get them bigger without amplification. Cool thanks for that!
i love everything about this channel
Hehe I found your channel because you tried to copyright infringe your own channel😂
Reece Burns hahahaha hahahaha. Yeah that indeed was me!
i can't stress how cool this looks
I almost died by a tv electric discharge. Had no youtube at the time.
This chap is the real deal. Genuine organised chaos. Im here for more.
Very Interesting! but why do you have to be so loud dude o.o
I guess he figured acting like a moron - which I'm sure he is not - would make his channel more popular.
This is literally the coolest thing I've ever seen.
Holy shit, defs supporting you on Patreon. This is the kind of mad scientist mumbo jumbo i need in my life
Your vidz get better and better!
I said just last night to my mate whilst drinking beers "I need an oscilloscope" and you post this :) Genius. I need one of these.......
'nuff luv :)
Your content is beyond quality my friend!
The making of the front panel brings some great climax.
At 6:38 I blacked out ... then snapped out of it an hour later. I was out side and 2 miles away.
I had 3 t-shirts on, a can of grape soda in my pants pocket and a BRAND NEW Crate tube amp in a shopping cart that had a Furby strapped to the front.
Thanks for the amp mate.
MINDBLOWN!!! I absolutely going to try to do this!!
I love your energy and enthusiasm
LOL the breakdown description. epic. Great stuff man, good vid.
I'm so glad I found your channel! This is the kind of projects and diy-content I've been waiting for :)
This is beyond rad..you make me wish we recorded a bunch of stuff we did in my basement band in the late 90's..excellent brother !!
Brilliant just up my street im building a Christmas lights digital clock project love you style pure inspiration
Neat!
I'd just recommend putting a 4 Ohm resistor in series with each coil, just to ensure the amplifier doesn't see too high an inductive load.
Cheerio!
I could watch this all day, gotta make one!
The skeleton part was fucking amazing. I love your audio/video.
I'm so glad I found your channel bro, keep up the good work
I am so glad that I found your channel!
The sounds emanated by such tech cured me from COVID. Thank you!
Thats incredible how those notes naturally take on those geometric forms.
i love this channel so much
i love that it looks 3D and rotating