Nice! Did you connect just one channel to the vertical deflector? Can you also show how to make a XY or wave visualizer from those small CRT tubes available on eBay? Thanks!
for coil result are different because one line is 50/ 60 Hz depending on where you live. the other one is 17 000 Hz ish so it's way to faster and looks fuzzy
At 4:15 you mention adding resistors to trick the TV. How do I go about figuring out what kind of resistor to use? High wattage, yes, but how high? I used a 5W resistor and that got scalding hot
So I hook up my audio cables to the horizontal points, I left the vertical. It wiggles a little bit when I start the TVA bed the music, but then after a few seconds, the tv makes a high pitched squeal and shuts itself off. Am I missing something? I think i might need resistors for the open horizontal wires. How can I do that? What do I need?
I have seen it say that you can't convert newer CRT TVs. You make a remark about how this can be done. Could you potentially reiterate? Thanks for the amazing video!
I assume you mean the part where I was talking about leaving the horizontal wires unconnected and how the TV may not work properly or at all if those wires remain unconnected. So if the TV doesn't want to operate I was saying you could maybe get away with connecting a high wattage resister to trick to the TV into thinking you still have the coil connected. Of course you would need to measure the resistance of the coil and then find a resistor that close to that value. Another thing that could work is just making your own inductor with the proper resistance and inductance to simulate the coil, that would also trick the TV. Hope that helps!
@@SciCynicalInventing Excuse me, I would like to seek out a sufficiently old CRT TV so I can get around the problems of converting a newer TV. Do you know if a TV from the 1980s is sufficiently old? This information would be greatly helpful!
a little late to this but what happens when u play a vhs tape in that model tv while ur playing audio with the oscillograph. im pretty much trying to know how to play videos thru a homeade dirty video mixer and have audio scanned while video is playing at the same time on the crt
It is clear enough. As we know, the video signal from a player is based upon a raster scan divided into a set of time-wise lines that are repeated in succession, each one carrying brightness and color information. A full 'frame' is composed of two 'fields', one after the other, which are interlaced, but that is getting off track and has only to do with the video's resolution which is irrelevant for your purpose. For your purpose, one field is a complete image and requires 1/60th of a second to complete. So, if your deflection patterin takes 1/60th of a second to complete, you will stretch out that image (the field) along the complete track of the pattern. You will not see any sort of image, but rather areas of varying coloration and brightness, and of course the 'blank' timing parts of the video signal that do not reach the CRT screen. (note 60Hz or 59.9Hz is the USA NTSC standard, others use about 50Hz, YMMV). A trick is to synchronize your deflection waveform to exactly the same speed as the video you are playing back. Then, the video scene will be stationary in relation to the deflection waveform and the movement of colored areas will be seen to correspond with the action on a separate TV monitor that is displaying the output of the playback device. Sub-harmonics of 60Hz will also 'freeze or synchronize the pattern to the incoming signal.
Mine isn't working. the line is about an inch long and it is just getting longer and shorter along with the music. Reminds me of a vu meter. how do i fix this? can u reply soon?!!!!!!
Hi maybe you can help me, I tried making an oscilloscope with an old tv by plugging both deflection coil on different audio jacks socket (a lot of people do that to have both X and Y axis displayed at the same time when you play music). What I get when I turn the tv on is the initial dot in the middle but it stays super small but becomes really really crazy bright and after a few seconds i hear a pop, the display shuts and after a big static noise appears coming from the back of the tv and continues until I unplug the tv. Any ideas on what's wrong ? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Sounds like you have your high voltage horizontal wires not connected to anything. I mention in the video that sometimes when you mess with the tv coils it wont operate correctly due to the high voltage wires being disconnected and shorting out somewhere. So usually you can get away with using a giant resister across those high voltage lines to fool the tv into thinking its connected to its yolk coils.
Hey, thanks for posting this, even though there are a number of videos about doing this, your's is the only one that mentions the tv not working after cutting the coil cables, so i was wondering if you could just enlighten me a bit more.. I am doing an osciloscope, so both vertical and horizontal coils, and when i turn it on, if shows the dot in the middle, but just for a second and shuts down, which i figure is the same thing that would cause it not to turn on at all.. So the question is, how do i determine which resistence is strong enough for this purpose,? And also, when i know the right resistence to use, i connect the positive and negative of the vetical, toghether, with the resistence in between, and the same for the horizontal, correct? Dont really know anyone that knows about this kind of stuff, so would really appreciate if you could help me, cheers!
No worries, so as a starting point I would measure the resistance (ohms) of the horizontal and vertical coils and that would be the rough value of the resistor that you would want to use to trick the board into thinking its connected to those coils. The resistors get connected to the wires running from the baord that originally went to the coils yes. High wattage resistors are a must, maybe like 5-10 watts at least. Now i say measuring the coils will give you a ROUGH resistance value because you are dealing with an AC current so theres reactance (resistance based on frequency) to consider. You can google that to find some equations to help you calculate it if you want to go that deep. If all else fails its not that hard to drive the tube and flyback with your own circuits. Flyback circuits are plentiful and for the tube you just need 2-5 volts DC for the filament and maybe 20 - 60 volts DC between the anode to cathode. Thats all just from the top of my head so take it with a grain of salt but hopefully that helps. Cheers!
@@SciCynicalInventing It is probably shutting down because of a protection circuit finding a fault in the horizontal deflection and high voltage section. The correct fix is to measure the inductance of the horizontal deflection coil and then substitute an inductor of that value to the set. The horizontal deflection circuit in this set includes a tuned circuit affecting horizontal retrace pulse width and high voltage level. That circuit is intimately connected in the power supply system and is not to be treated lightly. A resistor is not only wrong but dangerous to the set and renders it unsafe to operate. Also, no TV set of this general class should be run without the horizontal deflection coil connected OR an equivalent inductance substituted to the set. Note that the substitute inductance must not saturate.
@@MusicaCatolicaMIDI If the brightness is low, then it is possible that the absence of the horizontal deflection coil's inductance has also removed much of the energy storage mechanism used by the flyback-type high voltage supply, resulting in a low voltage. If the protection circuit was operating, the high voltage would be shut off and you should not get any trace on the tube. You can measure the voltage with a high voltage probe. They are now easy to own because there's little use for them today outside of we who like cathode ray tubes and general high voltage fun. Now, it may be possible to disable the safety protection, either by 'fooling' the detection circuit or by some interesting hardware hackery. I sincerely discourage such actions because the protection circuit, annoying as it may seem, is there to prevent the HV from rising above a pre-set limit according to X-ray exposure levels defined by regulatory agencies. It also tries to prevent further malfunctions in the TV set due to excessive high voltage, and to prevent fires and their toxic fumes. Hopefully the output device and fuse would blow quickly. Because of the vast number of ways television and monitor HV and deflection protection circuits are designed and implemented, it is not possible to provide specific information on how to defeat them. One who is experienced with TV set troubleshooting could figure it out from the schematic or by examining the set itself. No repair personnel I have known would create a permanent workaround to avoid the protection circuit. But there is always one LOL.
Yes, using an audio amplifier you can connect the left channel to the horizontal coil and the right channel to the vertical one and play around with frequencies on the channels to produce 3D images. Search "lissajous figures" or "oscilloscope music"
@@SciCynicalInventing There are some patterns generated on normal oscilloscopes that appear to be 3D and drawings. To display on an electromagnetic deflection display as in this video here, lower frequencies can be used, or more exotic deflection amplifiers made. There are many entertaining youtube videos of pictures and shapes drawn on oscilloscopes. Many also play the audio tones used, for an extra dimension of experience.
I have a question regarding the signal input from the audio cables. Is it possible to simply cut the wires to the speaker, and then run those up to the horizontal coil? Will that give the same effect as following the traces to find the amplifier and attaching the inputs from there? I ask because I am not too concerned about getting sound from the monitor itself, I only want the waveform.
Hello, i made this today, but is to sensitive, i put minimum volume and the wave is to big, how can i made the wave more small in amplitude? So is more aesthetic
no, the refresh rate on the horizontal is to fast to display a nice sine wave, the refresh of the verticle however does which is why its neccessary to rotate it. he explains and demonstrates that in the vid as well
@@Fvgh12345 But if the coils themselves are identical, then it shouldn't matter if you swap connections directly at the coils. The source doesn't switch X & Y.
@@enigma7070 I believe it has to do with something in the board, he demonstrated in the vid and im not sure how he would have got that with the configuration without something in the board causing it. I just made one a couple hours ago out of a small storm/emergency tv and just followed what he did, works great! Next one might switch it up just to see what happens
Sorry for the really late reply, but to answer your question: I've tried this before (swapping wires instead of rotating yolk) and it works but the line/waveforms on the tv end up shorter. Meaning that the coils for x and y are not exactly the same, thus why I say to rotate the yolk because it gives you a line/waveforms that are the entire width of the TV.
Hi new idea to Make circuit of oscilloscope that run on video input composite of TV with out open any tv or any other device. it make on working tv or video input based devices or monitor but not used A2D based circuit like Arduino or other digital circuit Useing analoge circuit this is awesome new idea to make every video based devices into oscilloscope. Can make tow different frequencies horizontal and vertical,and then distrube by injecting measuring signal work oscilloscope.
There are some similar, old articles on Video Oscilloscope converters/adapters that generate a proper video signal of a black screen with a single brightness pulse placed within the raster and moved about in time related to the timing of the video signal so that H and V deflection of the bright location in the raster is possible according to the analog H and V inputs to the adapter. The bandwidth of the oscilloscope thus created is quite low but it is an interesting thing to do and no doubt there is plenty of room for new ideas. Most of those articles are from the 1960s to 1980s electronics hobby magazines. Similar interesting and related topics are text generators for TV sets as well as do it yourself pong-type and similar types of very early DIY video games designed forTV sets, wherein shapes were moved around on the screen by voltages. The older circuits for similar projects use less 'special' ICs and more discrete parts, have much analog circuitry, and are a source of information for bringing to life such an idea.
Please do NOT discharge a CRT that way. You stand a good chance of zapping yourself and other parts of the set. Any stored (undischarged) EHT of around 25,000 volts is between the inside and outside of the glass of the CRT. It acts as a capacitor. To discharge a CRT you should ONLY discharge between the aquadag (the gritty black/grey conductive carbon paint on the outside of the CRT) and the ultor cap (that suction cup looking thing). FIRST connect your discharge wire to the aquadag. This can be done to any metal grounding straps around the CRT that DIRECTLY touches the aquadag. THEN slide the other end under the ultor cap. Make sure that ONLY this discharge wiring connects the two together. Do not let yourself be in the middle, nor other parts of the set. What you did only attaches one thing to the EHT, the other part of your discharge circuit was through everything else nearby, which could include you. For what it's worth, most modern sets discharge the tube at switch off (if not faulty). If you've seen a set's whole screen flash white for a brief moment at switch off, that's it discharging the CRT. But CRTs can recharge while you work on a set, just from picking up static electricity as you move about. For that reason you MAY want to leave the discharge wire shorting out the tube while the set is unplugged and you're modifying things. Naturally you MUST remove it before applying power. Also realise a set can discharge through the pins on the electron gun in the neck.
Best video I've seen on the subject. Thanks a lot!!
very uniquely awesome. well done.
Nice! Did you connect just one channel to the vertical deflector? Can you also show how to make a XY or wave visualizer from those small CRT tubes available on eBay? Thanks!
To discharge a CRT you should earth the screwdriver to the TV chassis, in particular the aquadag strap.
for coil result are different because one line is 50/ 60 Hz depending on where you live.
the other one is 17 000 Hz ish so it's way to faster and looks fuzzy
At 4:15 you mention adding resistors to trick the TV. How do I go about figuring out what kind of resistor to use? High wattage, yes, but how high? I used a 5W resistor and that got scalding hot
So I hook up my audio cables to the horizontal points, I left the vertical. It wiggles a little bit when I start the TVA bed the music, but then after a few seconds, the tv makes a high pitched squeal and shuts itself off.
Am I missing something? I think i might need resistors for the open horizontal wires. How can I do that? What do I need?
Or don't disassemble the TV and use a small effect: Analog Reason GR3. Or GR2 to the Eurorack for multiple curves at once :)
Very cool videos man!
I did pretty much the same thing and instead of waves I'm getting that line to move up and down in sync to the music. How can I fix this?
Your videos are dope, im surprised you dont have more subscribers
I have seen it say that you can't convert newer CRT TVs. You make a remark about how this can be done. Could you potentially reiterate? Thanks for the amazing video!
I assume you mean the part where I was talking about leaving the horizontal wires unconnected and how the TV may not work properly or at all if those wires remain unconnected. So if the TV doesn't want to operate I was saying you could maybe get away with connecting a high wattage resister to trick to the TV into thinking you still have the coil connected. Of course you would need to measure the resistance of the coil and then find a resistor that close to that value. Another thing that could work is just making your own inductor with the proper resistance and inductance to simulate the coil, that would also trick the TV. Hope that helps!
@@SciCynicalInventing Excuse me, I would like to seek out a sufficiently old CRT TV so I can get around the problems of converting a newer TV. Do you know if a TV from the 1980s is sufficiently old? This information would be greatly helpful!
@@munsonatl I dont see why it wouldnt work, so yes.
We Need to desolder the wire! [cuts the wire]
how powerfull my amplifier should be
Yeah what voltage
12 volt is pretty enough
@@Turker922 thank you
Congratulations, beautiful work, I'm also building one ... Greetings from Brazil!
a little late to this but what happens when u play a vhs tape in that model tv while ur playing audio with the oscillograph. im pretty much trying to know how to play videos thru a homeade dirty video mixer and have audio scanned while video is playing at the same time on the crt
sorry if my question is confusing im just starting to grasp this stuff! thx
It is clear enough. As we know, the video signal from a player is based upon a raster scan divided into a set of time-wise lines that are repeated in succession, each one carrying brightness and color information. A full 'frame' is composed of two 'fields', one after the other, which are interlaced, but that is getting off track and has only to do with the video's resolution which is irrelevant for your purpose. For your purpose, one field is a complete image and requires 1/60th of a second to complete.
So, if your deflection patterin takes 1/60th of a second to complete, you will stretch out that image (the field) along the complete track of the pattern. You will not see any sort of image, but rather areas of varying coloration and brightness, and of course the 'blank' timing parts of the video signal that do not reach the CRT screen. (note 60Hz or 59.9Hz is the USA NTSC standard, others use about 50Hz, YMMV). A trick is to synchronize your deflection waveform to exactly the same speed as the video you are playing back. Then, the video scene will be stationary in relation to the deflection waveform and the movement of colored areas will be seen to correspond with the action on a separate TV monitor that is displaying the output of the playback device. Sub-harmonics of 60Hz will also 'freeze or synchronize the pattern to the incoming signal.
Mine isn't working. the line is about an inch long and it is just getting longer and shorter along with the music. Reminds me of a vu meter. how do i fix this? can u reply soon?!!!!!!
When I got shock from crt tv after never touch it
Discharge the parts first so that you will not get shocked.
Hi maybe you can help me, I tried making an oscilloscope with an old tv by plugging both deflection coil on different audio jacks socket (a lot of people do that to have both X and Y axis displayed at the same time when you play music). What I get when I turn the tv on is the initial dot in the middle but it stays super small but becomes really really crazy bright and after a few seconds i hear a pop, the display shuts and after a big static noise appears coming from the back of the tv and continues until I unplug the tv. Any ideas on what's wrong ? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Sounds like you have your high voltage horizontal wires not connected to anything. I mention in the video that sometimes when you mess with the tv coils it wont operate correctly due to the high voltage wires being disconnected and shorting out somewhere. So usually you can get away with using a giant resister across those high voltage lines to fool the tv into thinking its connected to its yolk coils.
@@SciCynicalInventing so we would need to connect the two horizontal wires together with a resistor?
is there any way you can show us how to hook up the speakers and the amp
how did you connect the audio cables to the amp?
Ro Ro, rotate the yolk!
Hey, thanks for posting this, even though there are a number of videos about doing this, your's is the only one that mentions the tv not working after cutting the coil cables, so i was wondering if you could just enlighten me a bit more.. I am doing an osciloscope, so both vertical and horizontal coils, and when i turn it on, if shows the dot in the middle, but just for a second and shuts down, which i figure is the same thing that would cause it not to turn on at all..
So the question is, how do i determine which resistence is strong enough for this purpose,?
And also, when i know the right resistence to use, i connect the positive and negative of the vetical, toghether, with the resistence in between, and the same for the horizontal, correct?
Dont really know anyone that knows about this kind of stuff, so would really appreciate if you could help me, cheers!
No worries, so as a starting point I would measure the resistance (ohms) of the horizontal and vertical coils and that would be the rough value of the resistor that you would want to use to trick the board into thinking its connected to those coils. The resistors get connected to the wires running from the baord that originally went to the coils yes. High wattage resistors are a must, maybe like 5-10 watts at least. Now i say measuring the coils will give you a ROUGH resistance value because you are dealing with an AC current so theres reactance (resistance based on frequency) to consider. You can google that to find some equations to help you calculate it if you want to go that deep. If all else fails its not that hard to drive the tube and flyback with your own circuits. Flyback circuits are plentiful and for the tube you just need 2-5 volts DC for the filament and maybe 20 - 60 volts DC between the anode to cathode. Thats all just from the top of my head so take it with a grain of salt but hopefully that helps. Cheers!
@@SciCynicalInventing It is probably shutting down because of a protection circuit finding a fault in the horizontal deflection and high voltage section. The correct fix is to measure the inductance of the horizontal deflection coil and then substitute an inductor of that value to the set. The horizontal deflection circuit in this set includes a tuned circuit affecting horizontal retrace pulse width and high voltage level. That circuit is intimately connected in the power supply system and is not to be treated lightly. A resistor is not only wrong but dangerous to the set and renders it unsafe to operate. Also, no TV set of this general class should be run without the horizontal deflection coil connected OR an equivalent inductance substituted to the set. Note that the substitute inductance must not saturate.
@@MusicaCatolicaMIDI If the brightness is low, then it is possible that the absence of the horizontal deflection coil's inductance has also removed much of the energy storage mechanism used by the flyback-type high voltage supply, resulting in a low voltage.
If the protection circuit was operating, the high voltage would be shut off and you should not get any trace on the tube. You can measure the voltage with a high voltage probe. They are now easy to own because there's little use for them today outside of we who like cathode ray tubes and general high voltage fun.
Now, it may be possible to disable the safety protection, either by 'fooling' the detection circuit or by some interesting hardware hackery. I sincerely discourage such actions because the protection circuit, annoying as it may seem, is there to prevent the HV from rising above a pre-set limit according to X-ray exposure levels defined by regulatory agencies.
It also tries to prevent further malfunctions in the TV set due to excessive high voltage, and to prevent fires and their toxic fumes. Hopefully the output device and fuse would blow quickly.
Because of the vast number of ways television and monitor HV and deflection protection circuits are designed and implemented, it is not possible to provide specific information on how to defeat them. One who is experienced with TV set troubleshooting could figure it out from the schematic or by examining the set itself. No repair personnel I have known would create a permanent workaround to avoid the protection circuit. But there is always one LOL.
Im doing this on my old tv rn
How'd it go?
What happen if i send audio signal to both direction? Do I get a "3D effect" image?
Yes, using an audio amplifier you can connect the left channel to the horizontal coil and the right channel to the vertical one and play around with frequencies on the channels to produce 3D images. Search "lissajous figures" or "oscilloscope music"
@@SciCynicalInventing ok, thank you very much
@@SciCynicalInventing There are some patterns generated on normal oscilloscopes that appear to be 3D and drawings. To display on an electromagnetic deflection display as in this video here, lower frequencies can be used, or more exotic deflection amplifiers made. There are many entertaining youtube videos of pictures and shapes drawn on oscilloscopes. Many also play the audio tones used, for an extra dimension of experience.
So to discharge it, that rubberish "hat" should be lifted or removed?
I have a question regarding the signal input from the audio cables. Is it possible to simply cut the wires to the speaker, and then run those up to the horizontal coil? Will that give the same effect as following the traces to find the amplifier and attaching the inputs from there? I ask because I am not too concerned about getting sound from the monitor itself, I only want the waveform.
Yes 😊
This is crazy
is there any way to let the tv and the oscilloscope both working?
thanks
Hello, i made this today, but is to sensitive, i put minimum volume and the wave is to big, how can i made the wave more small in amplitude? So is more aesthetic
Resistor?
Instead of turning the yoke, can't you also just swap the horizontal and vertical connections to the coils?
no, the refresh rate on the horizontal is to fast to display a nice sine wave, the refresh of the verticle however does which is why its neccessary to rotate it. he explains and demonstrates that in the vid as well
@@Fvgh12345 But if the coils themselves are identical, then it shouldn't matter if you swap connections directly at the coils. The source doesn't switch X & Y.
@@enigma7070 I believe it has to do with something in the board, he demonstrated in the vid and im not sure how he would have got that with the configuration without something in the board causing it. I just made one a couple hours ago out of a small storm/emergency tv and just followed what he did, works great! Next one might switch it up just to see what happens
Sorry for the really late reply, but to answer your question: I've tried this before (swapping wires instead of rotating yolk) and it works but the line/waveforms on the tv end up shorter. Meaning that the coils for x and y are not exactly the same, thus why I say to rotate the yolk because it gives you a line/waveforms that are the entire width of the TV.
but how to control the speed
Dipende dalla frequenza e dal segnale.. e da quanto il segnale viene filtrato in ingresso
Hi new idea to Make circuit of oscilloscope that run on video input composite of TV with out open any tv or any other device.
it make on working tv or video input based devices or monitor but not used A2D based circuit like Arduino or other digital circuit
Useing analoge circuit this is awesome new idea to make every video based devices into oscilloscope.
Can make tow different frequencies horizontal and vertical,and then distrube by injecting measuring signal work oscilloscope.
There are some similar, old articles on Video Oscilloscope converters/adapters that generate a proper video signal of a black screen with a single brightness pulse placed within the raster and moved about in time related to the timing of the video signal so that H and V deflection of the bright location in the raster is possible according to the analog H and V inputs to the adapter.
The bandwidth of the oscilloscope thus created is quite low but it is an interesting thing to do and no doubt there is plenty of room for new ideas. Most of those articles are from the 1960s to 1980s electronics hobby magazines. Similar interesting and related topics are text generators for TV sets as well as do it yourself pong-type and similar types of very early DIY video games designed forTV sets, wherein shapes were moved around on the screen by voltages. The older circuits for similar projects use less 'special' ICs and more discrete parts, have much analog circuitry, and are a source of information for bringing to life such an idea.
Make me one
Electrical safety should be improved mate
Please do NOT discharge a CRT that way. You stand a good chance of zapping yourself and other parts of the set. Any stored (undischarged) EHT of around 25,000 volts is between the inside and outside of the glass of the CRT. It acts as a capacitor. To discharge a CRT you should ONLY discharge between the aquadag (the gritty black/grey conductive carbon paint on the outside of the CRT) and the ultor cap (that suction cup looking thing).
FIRST connect your discharge wire to the aquadag. This can be done to any metal grounding straps around the CRT that DIRECTLY touches the aquadag. THEN slide the other end under the ultor cap. Make sure that ONLY this discharge wiring connects the two together. Do not let yourself be in the middle, nor other parts of the set.
What you did only attaches one thing to the EHT, the other part of your discharge circuit was through everything else nearby, which could include you.
For what it's worth, most modern sets discharge the tube at switch off (if not faulty). If you've seen a set's whole screen flash white for a brief moment at switch off, that's it discharging the CRT.
But CRTs can recharge while you work on a set, just from picking up static electricity as you move about. For that reason you MAY want to leave the discharge wire shorting out the tube while the set is unplugged and you're modifying things. Naturally you MUST remove it before applying power.
Also realise a set can discharge through the pins on the electron gun in the neck.