IMPORTANT NOTICE PLEASE READ: He forgot to mention, to make certain that the connection to the air intake house to the back of the air filter cover is properly connected and in place. By missing this step you could be drawing in unfiltered air into your engine. On a lawnmower that can be very disadvantages to long engine life due to the huge amount of dust produced when mowing. There’s a small nipple on the rear of the filter cover and the engine air intake tube can easily be seen hanging loose, (if it became disconnected during disassembly, this very easily happens and occurs more often than not and goes unnoticed). This step is often missed by the best of techs but can have very serious consequences. The reason it’s so easily missed is because both the tube and the nipple are black in color and unless you have a light directly over it during disassembly and reassembly the disconnection often goes unnoticed. May save you the cost of a new engine. Justa FYI, there IS NOT any type of clamp on the air house to the nipple on the filter cover. It is an interference fit and that’s why it often comes off during disassembly or reassembly. IMPORTANT NOTE, PLEASE READ
I know this is an old post..but it just saved me a new carb for a my Honda. Great video, and one of the best parts about it was reassembling the carb....I would've struggled had I not seen this. Thanks!
Just bought my first house and my mother in law gave me an old Honda mower with the same issue. Took the carb apart and cleaned it, replaced the gaskets and adjusted the screw with the spring. Works like a champ and saved me a lot of money from having to buy a new mower. Thanks man!
Thank you so much for this video. I had to stop the video quite a few times to catch up with you but was able to remove and clean my carburetor successfully. It now runs like brand new. Thank you for the great instructions. Priscilla
This is great, no BS. Here is it before. Do this, Do this, Do this, 9 minutes start to finish, now it runs like this and all with Great camera work. Fantastic.
My Honda lawnmower sat all winter and I started it up and it died within seconds. I followed your steps to the T and guess what? The lawnmower runs like it's brand new! Thank you so much. Very easy to follow and great results.
My engine was a newer model and had a slightly different carburetor, but the concept was the same. I am very "mechanically challenged". This video not only saved me a trip to the repair shop and a few $$, it also made me proud of my accomplishment.
Your video helped me to realize there was a whole different jet on the carburetor that I hadn't cleaned yet! I just mowed my lawn today for the first time with your help!
I;m gonna try that extra step in the morning. I did not ream the port or open it . I just dumped the bowl of gas. Sounds like you nailed the culprit with the clogged port. Thanks.....
Got a similar model secondhand a few weeks ago. Crapped out on me this weekend, was worried I got taken. But I looked up some fixes and realized that the mower was just sitting idle for too long with old gas and the carburetor clogged. Mechanic said he'd fix it for about $100. Found this video instead. Followed the concise instructions. Cleaned it with WD40 instead because I didn't have any wire available. Closed it up, added some Lucas fuel system cleaner (couldn't find seafoam) to the gas in the tank. Runs like new! Awesome video, really happy I was able to do this on my own without any major mishaps
Thanks for the video. My mower ( HRX217 - GCV190) was doing the same as yours. I followed your video instructions and found a cracked gasket while dissembling the carb. I cleaned the carb and replaced the cracked gasket with a new one. That solved my problem !
Thanks for the wonderful video. My 14 year old HRX217 mower was surging at lower speed just as you described. I had cleaned the carburetor jets following a different video about 2 years ago and it worked, but YOUR VIDEO was a much more helpful video on how to disassemble and to do a quicker cursory low speed jet cleaning. It worked perfectly. I will also be adding a small in-line filter to see if this helps with blockage. Thank you so very much!
My mower is running like new again, no pulsating. I added an inline filter to it too to help in the future. I have done that on my dirt bikes too and I don't seem to have to ever clean the carb out again. Thanks for saving me some money!!!
Excellent breakdown - followed and now working a treat. PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE AIR INTAKE NOTICE, I forgot and need to get in there now before I forget again!!
Awesome video! This shows every step except for one - attaching the metal idler assembly arm to the plastic piece on the carb. It was pretty obvious that the metal piece needs on the idler assembly needs to slip over the plastic nub on the carb once I started at it for a bit, though. Great work and thanks a lot for sharing!
Fantastic video! Thank you for posting this. Extremely helpful instructions on how to properly clean a carb. Fixed the surging problem I was having with my 7 year old HRR216VKA.
Props to you man, great video and thanks for posting. Left my semi-disassembled carb for the entire winter, and without your video, wouldn't have been able to complete the job and reassemble this bad boy!
Thanks to you I was able to fix my own Honda following for the most part the way you did it, so thank you! I only thing I can add on the adjust screw with spring, I noticed the screw was 4 threads sticking out of the hole. When I did the 2 turns like you showed I noticed a 2 1/2 threads showing. Just a FYI.
Thanks, just fixed my Honda mower I picked up free. I saw another video explaining the cleaning process but not removing the screw on top and that was was also wrong with mine. I originally cleaned the carburetor because it was gunked up with old watered-down gas, it looked like flaked on salt but it didn't work until I came across this video.
Thanks so much your video saved the day and solved the surging problem with my Honda. I fist check the fuel filter in the line under the gas tank. It looked good and I blew it out. The surging was still happening so I want to carb and followed the video.
@@shananigans1179 Mine won't stay on unless I spray starter fluid. It'll turn on and then off but I will try your method next (taking it apart to clean the carburetor) 👍
Hi, Thanks for this great and very useful video :) I have the same exact model and did clean my carburetor following your instructions. All went perfectly and i just saved around 100$. Youpi !! Thanks a lot for your guidance.
I have this same model. They are super reliable . I use 93 Shell VPower for gas. Every year plug and oil change. I just wash the filter . It starts every year! Ive had Toros and other brands ....messed up my shoulder with those.
Suggest one Pop's out and cleans the emulsion tube from inside after remaining the main jet it is removed out the bottom "and" then clean the idle circuit with it still removed .. cleaning the idle circuit with it in place backwash's all the varnish and gunk into the space around the emulsion tube , so you might unplug the idle jet and flush that gunk into the emulsion tube plugging it instead ,, if the idle air adjust wont work its still plugged as you said, I have seen those passages plugged by fuel varnish so bad you can't clean the idle system property , in that case replace the Carburetor , . motor still runs poorly, low power ? , check and set the valve clearance settings on the top of the motor ,trust me you will only get carb spray in you eyes once before you will always decide eye protection is a rather important thing to have in place every time you use it..
My recommendation would be to clean the gas tank out too , cause that trash came from somewhere . Just my thoughts and experience . Enjoyed your video too .....
Hey man I know it’s an old video, but I brought my lawn mower out of storage from a long hiatus. Wouldn’t start so I followed your video and cleaned out the carburetor. Started on first pull, but I noticed it ran at a high RPms. Tried adjusting everything I saw, but can’t get it to go back to normal RPMs. The wire and rod are in place
Mine was slightly different but boy a ton of fluid flush put it back together, new spark plug, new air filter and bam... good as new. Also check a different video where the guy buys treads for the rear tires and sheet metal screws them on. I did that and it's even better than new grip.
Hi, I did it all and it worked perfect and started great. Left the mower in the back yard to mow the lawn this morning but now I have gas bleeding out and I lost a full gas tank last night to this morning
Check the fuel tank and make sure it's clean. If the carb is clean and the needle seals when off the mower check that the gaskets are in the correct place. If you block of the air passage for the atmospheric vent the carburetor will leak.
Thanks for the video. My mower would not start (after not running for a few months) and this got it started again. Only problem I'm having is my RPMs are going way too fast now. Is there anything I could have accidentally tweaked when reinstalling the carb to cause this? Appreciate it. Thank you!
Check that the throttle shaft is moving freely. Someone's they will stick. If it's moving freely then check the big spring on the underside of the linkages. Make sure it's not bound up. But my first guess would be throttle shaft is still sticking.
I do this every year and still can't remember. I live in a dirt-filled southern desert and the "yard" is basically weeds. I drain the gas, run it dry, and use a stabilizer to no avail. The next mower -- will be electric. Maybe robotic which could be dangerous around here. Riding electric might be fun. In the meantime... Thank you for the get-r-done video instructions.
Great video . I would like to see you use disposable gloves when you use those chemical sprays to clean the carb . Not good or healthy to have those chemicals on your skin. Can cause cancer.
My Honda HRX217 had been running rough for a while, revving up and down, would shut off when put in idle, coughing stinky black smoke. Recently, it stalled a couple times and really struggled to keep running, in addition to really spewing awful fumes. This morning I tried cleaning the carb. The inside of the bowl and main jet were clean, but the outside of the carb was thoroughly caked in thick gunk. I cleaned off what I could of the outside gunk, although there's plenty of bits left in scattered spots. I sprayed all the holes mentioned in this video with carb cleaner. I used a wire to poke through the main jet and the other longer metal thing inside there. However, my wire was too large to stick into the idle circuit hole. I just sprayed that out the best I could. Once back together, I started the mower. At first, it appeared to run better, not super smooth but no surging. Dropping to idle also seemed ok at first. The engine did not shut off when idled. However, moving back up to full power still led to a puff of smoke. After a couple minutes of running and going back and forth between full power and idle a couple times, the mower was right back where it had been before the cleaning... surging, coughing smoke, very rough idle, etc. Should I just try cleaning again, focusing on the idle circuit? Could the issue be something else? I did notice the gaskets were not in great shape.
If it's a black smoke, then you may have few things going on. It could be that the air filter if plugged or that you have some gas in your oil. Check your oil and make sure it is just oil and does not have any gas smell to it. If that is good then try running it without the air filter in a clean environment and see how it runs. I have seen filters that look good still be plugged to the point where a mower won't run right. One other thing to check would be to make sure the gaskets are lined up with all the passageway on the carb. If a gasket is in the wrong spot it can cause all sorts of running issues. If the oil is good and it still does it with the air filter off and all the gaskets are in the right place then I think you need to focus on the idle circuit more. Good luck. :)
I tried mowing a couple days ago, after the cleaning, just to see how it performed. It started out ok for the first five minutes, but then gradually worsened, and by the last five minutes the engine was struggling to not stall, no different than before the cleaning. Within the last month, I drained the old oil (waited way too long to do this) and refilled with fresh oil. That did not help the mower run any better. The air filter gets replaced regularly and currently looks decent. I'll test without the filter, though. When I took the carb out and apart, it was obvious it had not been cleaned or checked in the eleven or so years I've had the mower. In addition to the thick gunk, the gaskets were tough to remove as they were really stuck on. A few bits of material pulled off and remained stuck. I've been thinking that perhaps, if a new cleaning doesn't help, I could order a new carb with fresh gaskets and try that. It appears that may not be too expensive. We've been considering just buying a new mower, because this one has gotten a lot of use and it has several issues, but I thought I'd try some inexpensive/free DIY fixes first to see if I can get the big problem, the engine, solved.
If it ran okay for 5 min then it started to run funny try loosing the fuel cap. They're is a vent in it and when clogged it will let the mower run good for a few minutes and then will start to starve the carb of fuel. It might be a simple fuel cap replacement. You're right about the carbs being cheap though. The local lawn mower shop or eBay should have an oem one for a pretty decent price. If you want to test the tank vent without having to run the mower for 5-10 min you can always take the fuel line off the carb and, with the fuel cap in place, drain some fuel into a container watching the steam. If the fuel flow stays consistent for 30 secs to a min then you know that is good. If it starts out good and gets really weak and eventually stops then you know you have a venting issue. Good luck. :)
I have some positive news. I cleaned the carburetor again. This time I used a tip from another video in which a guy bent the tip of the red spray extension tube so he could shoot the cleaner up through the pilot jet from the inside. This worked well. I was able to see a strong stream shoot out of the top, confirming it was clean. I also blew out all the jets with air this time. I tried mowing afterward and, while not perfect, it did perform better. After mowing, with the engine still on, I removed the air filter briefly. There was an instant improvement. Any slight revving up and down ended. Clearly, the filter was dirtier than I thought. I thought it smelled a bit like fuel. So, today I installed a new filter and mowed a couple lawns. For 90 minutes, the engine did not rev up and down or sputter even once. It clearly had more power, too, as it mowed through long, dense patches of grass easily. Also, I was able to mow everything on one tank of gas, something I haven't been able to do in quite a while. I'll be quite satisfied if it continues to run this well. It's not perfect, though. First, it still takes at least a few pulls to start when it's fresh out of the garage. Second, it still coughs some dark smoke when it revs up in a hurry, like when I start it, quickly engage the blades, or quickly move it from slow to full power. If I start it on low power(it's easy to restart it after I've been mowing for a while), engage the blades slowly, or slowly move the lever from slow to full power, there's no puff of smoke. A bit of smoke won't bother me, though, if it runs well. I'll try to perform some other maintenance to see if I can get it running perfectly. Thanks for the video and tips.
@@DanCerveny do you happen to know the link or the name of the second video you watched. I may need it if this one doesn't do the job completely. Thank you
What do you think it may be if I cleaned all the jets like you said in the video. Won't start or run. Only starts and runs for a couple seconds, if I spray starter fluid into the carburetor
Sounds like you missed something in the carb. There is the atomization tube that drops down could be plugged. But I would look at that carburetor and all the Jets and passageways just one more time.
Although if you start with the bolts going through the air filter housing then put the first gasket on then put it through the metal bracket then put the second gasket on then push the bolts to the carburetor and put the gasket on that side of the carburetor then your insulating block then your last gasket you can usually do it pretty easily. The main trick is removing the bolt that is by the fuel shut off though. That's the one that makes your life way easier. :-)
Do you think someone should tell the carb manufacturers that there is Ethonal in the gas we have to buy? I know fuel injection is coming at a price. I see it on snow blowers at a premium price. Are they slowly force feeding us cordless machines? Great video. Fast & effective!
In my area there are several places that sell non-ethanol fuel. It cost a little more, but really helps out the carbureted equipment. I do understand what you are saying though. it seems like electric is becoming more the mainstream and in their defense they aren't getting more powerful and longer lasting, but I still don't think that it's time to get rid of gas engines just yet. I do know that some of the manufacturers are changing the materials they are making carburetors out of to combat the ethanol fuel as well.
Are you referring to just how bad ethanol gas is? The fact that it goes bad quicker and has less BTU power than regular old gasoline so it takes more fuel to get the same amount of power? Or is it the fact that it pulls moisture out of the air in humid areas and causes problems that way? It's pretty bad stuff no matter how you look at it. The manufacturer's did have to change some of the components they were using because the ethanol was not reacting well to then. Something to keep in mind though is it isn't the manufacturers of the equipment that have forced ethanol upon us. They are trying to keep their costs down as they try to comply with all the new government regulations and EPA demands. In the end I'm just trying to help people keep their cost down and their equipment running. :)
Maybe I should be more clear. I run Honda’s, Briggs, & Suzuki’s on my equipment. I do all the repairs. Ethonal blocks up the small jets in the carbs. Especially on the Honda design with the emulsion tube. Knowing that this is a problem, and has been for over 20 years, don’t you think by now they would have engineered a better carb to handle the Ethonal? I don’t think you will see fuel injectors on the smaller engines. 200 CCs and less. I think in 5 years the batteries & electric motors will improve and we will see the small gas engine go away.
Thanks for the video. I have a 1 season honda just like the one on your video. Left the gas over winter and now it runs very rough and dies when I put it on the grass. I'll try cleaning out the carburetor. Will WD40 do the trick or do i need to buy something else?
Just curious but what octane gas would you recommend running in this mower? I have had to do this every 2-3 years now but Ive taken it to a repair shop. Does the gas matter?
A higher octane gas will have a longer shelf life and not gum up the carb as fast. Also buying fuel in smaller quantities so you go throughout it faster will help. Gasoline today just didn't have the shelf life like the old fuel did.
I have this problem, but I cannot remove the screw even after using penetrating fluid and if I keep trying I will just strip the head. Not sure what to do.
I have this same problem, but also a few other things happen. Did you have gas coming out of your air filter when the mower was turned off, and if so, did this fix that too?
If gas is coming out it could be a few things. Most likely it is the needle in the carb not sealing, but it could also be that the gaskets got put on wrong.
I seem to have a silver cylinder left over. It's about 3/8" in diameter and about 3/8" long. Is that part of the mower or was that from something else? I can't seem to get it started now. Is there any magic for setting the automatic choke?
That might be part of the artichoke system that goes into the engine. My Lawnmower Forum SERVICE BULLETIN BULLETIN DE SERVICE www.mylawnmowerforum.com/attachments/gcv160-engine-wont-restart-pdf.58626/
@@shananigans1179 It was a metal spacer for the bolt in the airbox. What position should the auto choke thing be in? Does it connect to the black knob thing on the top of the carburetor? Does the black knob need to be in a special position?
Did everything you said did you step by step in at work perfectly until the new fuel filter went empty. I don’t understand this happened to my other mower too. I’m getting no fuel to the fuel filter.. please help.
I just checked the cap and blew all the small port holes. I could think find. I’ve cleaned all the debris out of them and I can breathe through them. I’ll try it out tomorrow. I have a riding mower with 18 hp Kohler pro and it’s doing the exact same thing. I’ve cleaned the carburettor three times and still seems like there’s what I’ve heard is a Vapor lock or air pocket in the line. After about 10 minutes, the fuel filter is empty and I’ve got a blow through the cap to force fuel back into the filter and then restart it. This is driving me insane with this particular problem.
On the Kohler is there a vacuum fuel pump or a mechanical fuel pump? If it's the vacuum fuel pump, check the vent line going over to the fuel pump. I've seen those get tiny holes and cracks in them and they don't pump fuel like they should. I've also seen the diaphragms go bad in the pump. On the mechanical pump. I've seen the diaphragm go bad in those also.
Auto choke , what’s that little rod that it pushes up against ? Noticed a little octagon thing with a rod in it that pushes up against the auto choke ???
This is an older video, but the screw you removed from the carburetor is totally seized. I tried everything to get it out, just going to buy a new one on Amazon
@@shananigans1179 thanks. Another video suggested adjusting the valves, is that worth doing? It sounds just perfect on choke but surges on full throttle and dies on low throttle
@@shananigans1179 you were right. Cleaned it a third time and it seems to work now. Idles fine on full throttle. Seems to cut and low throttle but not a problem for me
You might just because the engine is running at a constant speed when fixed. You can also bend the governor linkage ever so slightly to increase the rpms. :)
If anyone is still reading these comments, I have a lawn mower with this engine we gave it an oil change nd tipped it on its side for me a couple moments now it won't start at all. If anyone has any suggestions on that I'd appreciate it.
I still read these! :) Sometimes it will get flooded with fuel when you to them over. Check the spark plug and see if it's wet. If it is then you need to dry it out or pull until your arm falls off then switch sides. :) If it's the auto choke you can remove the air filter and hold the choke open with something so more air gets into the system. Good luck. :)
Do you need to use the auto choke? I bought a new carburettor that was supposed to fit my machinebut it's slightly different, the black piece that opens the outside "vent"? Doesn't have thst extra bit on top so the auto choke has nothing to push against. Am I OK to leave it off?
@@shananigans1179 ah right. Is the chokes job to keep both vents open at the same time when firing? Is there anyway to remove the black top piece and fit it on the other carb?
![เปิดใจ “ต้นหอม ศกุนตลา” หลังโดนพาดพิงธุรกิจที่เคยทำ และผลกระทบทำถูกปลดฟ้าผ่า! | แฉ 24 ต.ค.67 [2/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vCi5OIqlxaE/mqdefault.jpg)
IMPORTANT NOTICE PLEASE READ: He forgot to mention, to make certain that the connection to the air intake house to the back of the air filter cover is properly connected and in place. By missing this step you could be drawing in unfiltered air into your engine. On a lawnmower that can be very disadvantages to long engine life due to the huge amount of dust produced when mowing. There’s a small nipple on the rear of the filter cover and the engine air intake tube can easily be seen hanging loose, (if it became disconnected during disassembly, this very easily happens and occurs more often than not and goes unnoticed). This step is often missed by the best of techs but can have very serious consequences. The reason it’s so easily missed is because both the tube and the nipple are black in color and unless you have a light directly over it during disassembly and reassembly the disconnection often goes unnoticed. May save you the cost of a new engine. Justa FYI, there IS NOT any type of clamp on the air house to the nipple on the filter cover. It is an interference fit and that’s why it often comes off during disassembly or reassembly. IMPORTANT NOTE, PLEASE READ
Thanks for pointing this out. Sometimes you do something so many times you forget to mention it. I will pin this at the top to help others out. :)
Where in the video do you see this? Sorry, complete newbie here and I don't quite understand this comment but should. Thanks!
It's the tube connecting the air filter box to the engine. If it pops off unfiltered air will get into the engine.
You can get a brand new oem carb for less then 25 bucks. Along with brand new gaskets online. That is if you can wait a day or two to mow.
It's amazing how cheap some of these carburetors are nowadays. I still like fixing stuff instead of throwing it away if I can though. :)
I know this is an old post..but it just saved me a new carb for a my Honda. Great video, and one of the best parts about it was reassembling the carb....I would've struggled had I not seen this. Thanks!
Happy it helped you. :)
Just bought my first house and my mother in law gave me an old Honda mower with the same issue. Took the carb apart and cleaned it, replaced the gaskets and adjusted the screw with the spring. Works like a champ and saved me a lot of money from having to buy a new mower. Thanks man!
That's so awesome!! Happy I could help.
Thank you so much for this video. I had to stop the video quite a few times to catch up with you but was able to remove and clean my carburetor successfully. It now runs like brand new. Thank you for the great instructions. Priscilla
So glad it helped you :)
This is great, no BS. Here is it before. Do this, Do this, Do this, 9 minutes start to finish, now it runs like this and all with Great camera work. Fantastic.
Thanks. I hate the guys who talk for 4-7 min before they get into the repair. I tried to keep it simple and informative.
Agreed! Finally videos straight to the point.
Thank you.
I know this is an old video, but thanks my dude. This got my mower back up and running like a champ
Happy to help. :)
My Honda lawnmower sat all winter and I started it up and it died within seconds. I followed your steps to the T and guess what? The lawnmower runs like it's brand new! Thank you so much. Very easy to follow and great results.
Happy to help. :)
My engine was a newer model and had a slightly different carburetor, but the concept was the same. I am very "mechanically challenged". This video not only saved me a trip to the repair shop and a few $$, it also made me proud of my accomplishment.
So glad I could help!. Thank you so much for taking the time to comment. Really made my day. :)
Putting the carb assemply back together from the outside in is a lesson I learned the easy way. Well done.
Thanks. That's what the service manual said to do. :)
Wow finally a TH-cam video that actually worked. Thank you.
Happy to help!. :)
Nice and quick detailed video. Thanks. Mower is running like new again after carb cleaned, new air filter, and new spark plug.
Happy to help.
Excellent video. To the point. No dog, child or wife..
My dog at the time was probably busy chewing on something. The children are too ugly to be in the video and the wife is camera shy. 🙂
Your video helped me to realize there was a whole different jet on the carburetor that I hadn't cleaned yet! I just mowed my lawn today for the first time with your help!
Glad I could help. :)
This worked! We followed your instructions to the letter and it's running like a champ now. Thank you so much for the helpful video!
Thank you. I'm glad I could help. I hope you subscribed. It really helps the channel.
Worked perfectly! Surge is gone, fires right up, plus I adjusted the low idle speed.
Thanks for posting.
I;m gonna try that extra step in the morning. I did not ream the port or open it . I just dumped the bowl of gas. Sounds like you nailed the culprit with the clogged port. Thanks.....
Just following up, did it work for you? :)
Got a similar model secondhand a few weeks ago. Crapped out on me this weekend, was worried I got taken. But I looked up some fixes and realized that the mower was just sitting idle for too long with old gas and the carburetor clogged. Mechanic said he'd fix it for about $100. Found this video instead. Followed the concise instructions. Cleaned it with WD40 instead because I didn't have any wire available. Closed it up, added some Lucas fuel system cleaner (couldn't find seafoam) to the gas in the tank. Runs like new! Awesome video, really happy I was able to do this on my own without any major mishaps
That's great!
Thank you, I have the exact same mower with the exact same surge/no idle problem, and this video-tutorial is exactly what I needed - thanks again!
Thanks mate top video. Fixed mine first go after watching the video once! Well explained
Glad to hear. Happy to help.
Thanks for the video. My mower ( HRX217 - GCV190) was doing the same as yours. I followed your video instructions and found a cracked gasket while dissembling the carb. I cleaned the carb and replaced the cracked gasket with a new one. That solved my problem !
Glad I could help. :)
Thanks for the wonderful video. My 14 year old HRX217 mower was surging at lower speed just as you described. I had cleaned the carburetor jets following a different video about 2 years ago and it worked, but YOUR VIDEO was a much more helpful video on how to disassemble and to do a quicker cursory low speed jet cleaning. It worked perfectly. I will also be adding a small in-line filter to see if this helps with blockage. Thank you so very much!
Glad I could help. :)
Your video helped this homeowner to get his 217 running again. Thanks a lot and good luck.
Glad to hear. :)
Very concise, precise and informative. I've watched several Honda videos addressing this problem and yours is tops. Thanks...
Thank you. I try. :)
My mower is running like new again, no pulsating. I added an inline filter to it too to help in the future. I have done that on my dirt bikes too and I don't seem to have to ever clean the carb out again. Thanks for saving me some money!!!
Excellent breakdown - followed and now working a treat. PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE AIR INTAKE NOTICE, I forgot and need to get in there now before I forget again!!
Thanks.
Worked great man. The mower I have has never worked better!
Glad I could help!
This just saved me a trip to an expensive small engine repair shop. I was positive this would be much harder.
Awesome video! This shows every step except for one - attaching the metal idler assembly arm to the plastic piece on the carb. It was pretty obvious that the metal piece needs on the idler assembly needs to slip over the plastic nub on the carb once I started at it for a bit, though. Great work and thanks a lot for sharing!
Glad I could help. :)
Drill 10mm socket
Or an impact driver.
Fantastic video! Thank you for posting this. Extremely helpful instructions on how to properly clean a carb. Fixed the surging problem I was having with my 7 year old HRR216VKA.
Happy to help!. :) Thanks.
Props to you man, great video and thanks for posting. Left my semi-disassembled carb for the entire winter, and without your video, wouldn't have been able to complete the job and reassemble this bad boy!
Glad to help. :)
Thanks to you I was able to fix my own Honda following for the most part the way you did it, so thank you! I only thing I can add on the adjust screw with spring, I noticed the screw was 4 threads sticking out of the hole. When I did the 2 turns like you showed I noticed a 2 1/2 threads showing. Just a FYI.
Each machine will be a little different. Glad I could help you out. :)
Thank yous for posting videos and those lawnmower makers...
Happy to help.
Can't wait to fix my mower. Gotta find my 10mm socket first though.
Good luck!!. :)
Great video I Appreciate it now my mower runs again.
Glad it worked for you!
Fishing line works great, and won’t scuff the bronze.
I'll have to try that.
Thanks, just fixed my Honda mower I picked up free. I saw another video explaining the cleaning process but not removing the screw on top and that was was also wrong with mine. I originally cleaned the carburetor because it was gunked up with old watered-down gas, it looked like flaked on salt but it didn't work until I came across this video.
Thanks. Glad I could share all the secrets of carb cleaning. :) Happy to help.
Thanks so much your video saved the day and solved the surging problem with my Honda. I fist check the fuel filter in the line under the gas tank. It looked good and I blew it out. The surging was still happening so I want to carb and followed the video.
Glad I could help.
Awesome video. Clear, quick and to the point.
Thanks!! Glad I could help.
old post but right on time for me! Thanks!
Oh good. :)
You are very efficient!
Thanks
Thanks. :) I try
Damn you made that look easy... I gave up once I took it apart but you put it back together quick! I will try again another day 👍
Thanks. It's not too bad and it makes a huge difference in the starting and running of the machines. :)
@@shananigans1179 Mine won't stay on unless I spray starter fluid. It'll turn on and then off but I will try your method next (taking it apart to clean the carburetor) 👍
That definitely sounds like a carb problem.
Great help. Very informative video.
Thanks a bunch.
Happy to help
Thanks for the video. This worked like a charm
Glad it helped
Very helpful. Thank you 🙏
Happy to help. :)
Thanks! This helped me out a lot!
Glad to help.
Outstanding video!
Thank you very much!
Hi,
Thanks for this great and very useful video :)
I have the same exact model and did clean my carburetor following your instructions. All went perfectly and i just saved around 100$. Youpi !!
Thanks a lot for your guidance.
My mower has the same problem so I will try this tomorrow. You can get a new carb for like $30 but I prefer to see if I can fix it first.
I know they are cheap but I hate to throw stuff away when you can fix it. :)
I took mine apart a few weeks ago and forgot how it went back together . Thanks
Happy to help.
I have this same model. They are super reliable . I use 93 Shell VPower for gas. Every year plug and oil change. I just wash the filter . It starts every year! Ive had Toros and other brands ....messed up my shoulder with those.
Thanks for the help works better than new
Great! Funny how that happens sometimes. :)
Excellent, will try it .
Suggest one Pop's out and cleans the emulsion tube from inside after remaining the main jet it is removed out the bottom "and" then clean the idle circuit with it still removed .. cleaning the idle circuit with it in place backwash's all the varnish and gunk into the space around the emulsion tube , so you might unplug the idle jet and flush that gunk into the emulsion tube plugging it instead ,, if the idle air adjust wont work its still plugged as you said, I have seen those passages plugged by fuel varnish so bad you can't clean the idle system property , in that case replace the Carburetor , . motor still runs poorly, low power ? , check and set the valve clearance settings on the top of the motor ,trust me you will only get carb spray in you eyes once before you will always decide eye protection is a rather important thing to have in place every time you use it..
Fixed mine with a can of orielly brake clean. Thanks for the guidance
Happy to help
Great information thanks breathing was freaking me out Tho
Sorry about that.
just commenting that this is a great video. Thanks.
Thanks
Worked great. Thanks a ton for putting this video together.
Glad to help.
My recommendation would be to clean the gas tank out too , cause that trash came from somewhere . Just my thoughts and experience . Enjoyed your video too .....
Always a good idea to clean the tank and fuel lines. Thanks.
Perfect, thank you. 👍
Anytime. :)
Good video, with clear shots of each step.
Thanks.
Hey man I know it’s an old video, but I brought my lawn mower out of storage from a long hiatus. Wouldn’t start so I followed your video and cleaned out the carburetor. Started on first pull, but I noticed it ran at a high RPms. Tried adjusting everything I saw, but can’t get it to go back to normal RPMs. The wire and rod are in place
Sounds like the throttle plate is stuck. Try spraying carb cleaner down the throat of the carb and moving it back and forth.
Mine was slightly different but boy a ton of fluid flush put it back together, new spark plug, new air filter and bam... good as new.
Also check a different video where the guy buys treads for the rear tires and sheet metal screws them on. I did that and it's even better than new grip.
nice work
Thanks
Thanks. Good video
Thank you.
Hi, I did it all and it worked perfect and started great. Left the mower in the back yard to mow the lawn this morning but now I have gas bleeding out and I lost a full gas tank last night to this morning
Check the fuel tank and make sure it's clean. If the carb is clean and the needle seals when off the mower check that the gaskets are in the correct place. If you block of the air passage for the atmospheric vent the carburetor will leak.
Thanks for the video. My mower would not start (after not running for a few months) and this got it started again. Only problem I'm having is my RPMs are going way too fast now. Is there anything I could have accidentally tweaked when reinstalling the carb to cause this? Appreciate it. Thank you!
Check that the throttle shaft is moving freely. Someone's they will stick. If it's moving freely then check the big spring on the underside of the linkages. Make sure it's not bound up. But my first guess would be throttle shaft is still sticking.
Thanks this is an excellent video!
Any time!! Glad to help.
I do this every year and still can't remember. I live in a dirt-filled southern desert and the "yard" is basically weeds. I drain the gas, run it dry, and use a stabilizer to no avail. The next mower -- will be electric. Maybe robotic which could be dangerous around here. Riding electric might be fun. In the meantime... Thank you for the get-r-done video instructions.
Happy to help. I'm also in a southern desert. Fuel goes bad so quickly in the heat.
First view, first like, first comment? Yay! Nice work man!
+eveRide ADV thanks for the support! I moved my mic so hopefully the next video you don't hear me breathing through the whole thing :)
Great video . I would like to see you use disposable gloves when you use those chemical sprays to clean the carb . Not good or healthy to have those chemicals on your skin. Can cause cancer.
Thanks. I try to. I just run out sometimes. :)
My Honda HRX217 had been running rough for a while, revving up and down, would shut off when put in idle, coughing stinky black smoke. Recently, it stalled a couple times and really struggled to keep running, in addition to really spewing awful fumes. This morning I tried cleaning the carb. The inside of the bowl and main jet were clean, but the outside of the carb was thoroughly caked in thick gunk. I cleaned off what I could of the outside gunk, although there's plenty of bits left in scattered spots. I sprayed all the holes mentioned in this video with carb cleaner. I used a wire to poke through the main jet and the other longer metal thing inside there. However, my wire was too large to stick into the idle circuit hole. I just sprayed that out the best I could. Once back together, I started the mower. At first, it appeared to run better, not super smooth but no surging. Dropping to idle also seemed ok at first. The engine did not shut off when idled. However, moving back up to full power still led to a puff of smoke. After a couple minutes of running and going back and forth between full power and idle a couple times, the mower was right back where it had been before the cleaning... surging, coughing smoke, very rough idle, etc. Should I just try cleaning again, focusing on the idle circuit? Could the issue be something else? I did notice the gaskets were not in great shape.
If it's a black smoke, then you may have few things going on. It could be that the air filter if plugged or that you have some gas in your oil. Check your oil and make sure it is just oil and does not have any gas smell to it. If that is good then try running it without the air filter in a clean environment and see how it runs. I have seen filters that look good still be plugged to the point where a mower won't run right.
One other thing to check would be to make sure the gaskets are lined up with all the passageway on the carb. If a gasket is in the wrong spot it can cause all sorts of running issues.
If the oil is good and it still does it with the air filter off and all the gaskets are in the right place then I think you need to focus on the idle circuit more. Good luck. :)
I tried mowing a couple days ago, after the cleaning, just to see how it performed. It started out ok for the first five minutes, but then gradually worsened, and by the last five minutes the engine was struggling to not stall, no different than before the cleaning.
Within the last month, I drained the old oil (waited way too long to do this) and refilled with fresh oil. That did not help the mower run any better. The air filter gets replaced regularly and currently looks decent. I'll test without the filter, though. When I took the carb out and apart, it was obvious it had not been cleaned or checked in the eleven or so years I've had the mower. In addition to the thick gunk, the gaskets were tough to remove as they were really stuck on. A few bits of material pulled off and remained stuck. I've been thinking that perhaps, if a new cleaning doesn't help, I could order a new carb with fresh gaskets and try that. It appears that may not be too expensive.
We've been considering just buying a new mower, because this one has gotten a lot of use and it has several issues, but I thought I'd try some inexpensive/free DIY fixes first to see if I can get the big problem, the engine, solved.
If it ran okay for 5 min then it started to run funny try loosing the fuel cap. They're is a vent in it and when clogged it will let the mower run good for a few minutes and then will start to starve the carb of fuel. It might be a simple fuel cap replacement.
You're right about the carbs being cheap though. The local lawn mower shop or eBay should have an oem one for a pretty decent price.
If you want to test the tank vent without having to run the mower for 5-10 min you can always take the fuel line off the carb and, with the fuel cap in place, drain some fuel into a container watching the steam. If the fuel flow stays consistent for 30 secs to a min then you know that is good. If it starts out good and gets really weak and eventually stops then you know you have a venting issue.
Good luck. :)
I have some positive news. I cleaned the carburetor again. This time I used a tip from another video in which a guy bent the tip of the red spray extension tube so he could shoot the cleaner up through the pilot jet from the inside. This worked well. I was able to see a strong stream shoot out of the top, confirming it was clean. I also blew out all the jets with air this time. I tried mowing afterward and, while not perfect, it did perform better. After mowing, with the engine still on, I removed the air filter briefly. There was an instant improvement. Any slight revving up and down ended. Clearly, the filter was dirtier than I thought. I thought it smelled a bit like fuel. So, today I installed a new filter and mowed a couple lawns. For 90 minutes, the engine did not rev up and down or sputter even once. It clearly had more power, too, as it mowed through long, dense patches of grass easily. Also, I was able to mow everything on one tank of gas, something I haven't been able to do in quite a while. I'll be quite satisfied if it continues to run this well. It's not perfect, though. First, it still takes at least a few pulls to start when it's fresh out of the garage. Second, it still coughs some dark smoke when it revs up in a hurry, like when I start it, quickly engage the blades, or quickly move it from slow to full power. If I start it on low power(it's easy to restart it after I've been mowing for a while), engage the blades slowly, or slowly move the lever from slow to full power, there's no puff of smoke. A bit of smoke won't bother me, though, if it runs well. I'll try to perform some other maintenance to see if I can get it running perfectly. Thanks for the video and tips.
@@DanCerveny do you happen to know the link or the name of the second video you watched. I may need it if this one doesn't do the job completely. Thank you
What do you think it may be if I cleaned all the jets like you said in the video. Won't start or run. Only starts and runs for a couple seconds, if I spray starter fluid into the carburetor
Sounds like you missed something in the carb. There is the atomization tube that drops down could be plugged. But I would look at that carburetor and all the Jets and passageways just one more time.
Nicely done! ...... good video, instructive and to the point.
Very helpful. Thanks!
Great video for me.
Glad I could help. :)
Very helpful
Thanks!! Happy to help.
I had no idea that Bane did small engine repair.
Lol. I know right!. :)
You forgot to mention that we need 20 fingers to be able to align all the gaskets and bolts when putting everything back together. 🤦♂️
Sometimes I forget that not everyone has 20 fingers. Sorry. :)
Although if you start with the bolts going through the air filter housing then put the first gasket on then put it through the metal bracket then put the second gasket on then push the bolts to the carburetor and put the gasket on that side of the carburetor then your insulating block then your last gasket you can usually do it pretty easily. The main trick is removing the bolt that is by the fuel shut off though. That's the one that makes your life way easier. :-)
Do you think someone should tell the carb manufacturers that there is Ethonal in the gas we have to buy? I know fuel injection is coming at a price. I see it on snow blowers at a premium price. Are they slowly force feeding us cordless machines? Great video. Fast & effective!
In my area there are several places that sell non-ethanol fuel. It cost a little more, but really helps out the carbureted equipment. I do understand what you are saying though. it seems like electric is becoming more the mainstream and in their defense they aren't getting more powerful and longer lasting, but I still don't think that it's time to get rid of gas engines just yet. I do know that some of the manufacturers are changing the materials they are making carburetors out of to combat the ethanol fuel as well.
It’s not the materials that is used
Are you referring to just how bad ethanol gas is? The fact that it goes bad quicker and has less BTU power than regular old gasoline so it takes more fuel to get the same amount of power? Or is it the fact that it pulls moisture out of the air in humid areas and causes problems that way?
It's pretty bad stuff no matter how you look at it.
The manufacturer's did have to change some of the components they were using because the ethanol was not reacting well to then.
Something to keep in mind though is it isn't the manufacturers of the equipment that have forced ethanol upon us. They are trying to keep their costs down as they try to comply with all the new government regulations and EPA demands.
In the end I'm just trying to help people keep their cost down and their equipment running. :)
Maybe I should be more clear. I run Honda’s, Briggs, & Suzuki’s on my equipment. I do all the repairs. Ethonal blocks up the small jets in the carbs. Especially on the Honda design
with the emulsion tube. Knowing that this is a problem, and has been for over 20 years,
don’t you think by now they would have engineered a better carb to handle the Ethonal?
I don’t think you will see fuel injectors on the smaller engines. 200 CCs and less. I think in 5 years the batteries & electric motors will improve and we will see the small gas engine go away.
Thanks
You're very welcome. :)
When is the Honda EU-2000 carb video going to be available? Asking for a friend...
That friend is me.
I don't have any friends....
Next one that I fix I will record and get it on here for you.
Thanks for the video. I have a 1 season honda just like the one on your video. Left the gas over winter and now it runs very rough and dies when I put it on the grass. I'll try cleaning out the carburetor. Will WD40 do the trick or do i need to buy something else?
You will want to use a carb cleaner. WD40 is great for a lot of things but breaking down old fuel deposits is best left to the harsher chemicals. :)
@@shananigans1179 Thank you.
Just curious but what octane gas would you recommend running in this mower? I have had to do this every 2-3 years now but Ive taken it to a repair shop. Does the gas matter?
A higher octane gas will have a longer shelf life and not gum up the carb as fast. Also buying fuel in smaller quantities so you go throughout it faster will help. Gasoline today just didn't have the shelf life like the old fuel did.
@@shananigans1179 Thanks and the carb cleaning seemed to work however I have now throttle cable issues Ill tackle that another day.
I have this problem, but I cannot remove the screw even after using penetrating fluid and if I keep trying I will just strip the head. Not sure what to do.
I have this same problem, but also a few other things happen. Did you have gas coming out of your air filter when the mower was turned off, and if so, did this fix that too?
If gas is coming out it could be a few things. Most likely it is the needle in the carb not sealing, but it could also be that the gaskets got put on wrong.
"Honda, I am your father." 😂
I seem to have a silver cylinder left over. It's about 3/8" in diameter and about 3/8" long. Is that part of the mower or was that from something else? I can't seem to get it started now. Is there any magic for setting the automatic choke?
That might be part of the auto choke that goes into the engine.
That might be part of the artichoke system that goes into the engine.
My Lawnmower Forum
SERVICE BULLETIN BULLETIN DE SERVICE www.mylawnmowerforum.com/attachments/gcv160-engine-wont-restart-pdf.58626/
@@shananigans1179 It was a metal spacer for the bolt in the airbox. What position should the auto choke thing be in? Does it connect to the black knob thing on the top of the carburetor? Does the black knob need to be in a special position?
Great work Bro.
+Isaac Sundberg Thanks.
Did everything you said did you step by step in at work perfectly until the new fuel filter went empty. I don’t understand this happened to my other mower too. I’m getting no fuel to the fuel filter.. please help.
Check your gas cap. There's a atmospheric vent in there that might be plugged. That would not allow the fuel to flow properly.
I just checked the cap and blew all the small port holes. I could think find. I’ve cleaned all the debris out of them and I can breathe through them. I’ll try it out tomorrow.
I have a riding mower with 18 hp Kohler pro and it’s doing the exact same thing. I’ve cleaned the carburettor three times and still seems like there’s what I’ve heard is a Vapor lock or air pocket in the line. After about 10 minutes, the fuel filter is empty and I’ve got a blow through the cap to force fuel back into the filter and then restart it. This is driving me insane with this particular problem.
On the Kohler is there a vacuum fuel pump or a mechanical fuel pump? If it's the vacuum fuel pump, check the vent line going over to the fuel pump. I've seen those get tiny holes and cracks in them and they don't pump fuel like they should. I've also seen the diaphragms go bad in the pump. On the mechanical pump. I've seen the diaphragm go bad in those also.
Auto choke , what’s that little rod that it pushes up against ? Noticed a little octagon thing with a rod in it that pushes up against the auto choke ???
As it warms up it disengages the choke.
Hey guys please use some air to blow out these small passages after cleaning. The passages inside the carb can hide unseen particles.
That's a great idea if you have that available to use. :)
This is an older video, but the screw you removed from the carburetor is totally seized. I tried everything to get it out, just going to buy a new one on Amazon
Smart. :)
@shananigans1179 appreciate your video though! Got me atleast halfway there! Haha
Happy to help. :)
After doing this twice my mower still surges, in fact exactly the same as before. I can see clear daylight through all the jets. What else can I do?
The passage way from the bottom to the top could be plugged. You could have an air leak somewhere. The governor could be out of adjustment.
@@shananigans1179 thanks. Another video suggested adjusting the valves, is that worth doing? It sounds just perfect on choke but surges on full throttle and dies on low throttle
That sounds like that passage way is clogged still.
@@shananigans1179 you were right. Cleaned it a third time and it seems to work now. Idles fine on full throttle. Seems to cut and low throttle but not a problem for me
I'm trying to do this, but the model I have seems slightly different. There is no metal bracket holding up the air filter and carb. Any advice?
If you get me your model number I can look it up and give you some help. :)
Dude your like a surgeon
Thanks. :)
Is there a difference in the power level after the idle jet fix? Thanks!
You might just because the engine is running at a constant speed when fixed. You can also bend the governor linkage ever so slightly to increase the rpms. :)
@@shananigans1179 Copy that, thank you!
My float fell off and a pin came out from underneath. Had to slide it in a Slot on the float.
That can happen. :)
go read the MSDS sheet for carb cleaner.
I glanced over it! I will definitely improve. Thank you
If anyone is still reading these comments, I have a lawn mower with this engine we gave it an oil change nd tipped it on its side for me a couple moments now it won't start at all. If anyone has any suggestions on that I'd appreciate it.
I still read these! :) Sometimes it will get flooded with fuel when you to them over. Check the spark plug and see if it's wet. If it is then you need to dry it out or pull until your arm falls off then switch sides. :) If it's the auto choke you can remove the air filter and hold the choke open with something so more air gets into the system. Good luck. :)
Do you need to use the auto choke? I bought a new carburettor that was supposed to fit my machinebut it's slightly different, the black piece that opens the outside "vent"? Doesn't have thst extra bit on top so the auto choke has nothing to push against.
Am I OK to leave it off?
Usually they won't start without the choke. :(
@@shananigans1179 ah right. Is the chokes job to keep both vents open at the same time when firing? Is there anyway to remove the black top piece and fit it on the other carb?
The choke should be closed when starting to increase the fuel to air ratio. You might be about to switch the parts around.
Thanks. No, go.
Your welcome? :) if you're still having problems I can try and help you. :)