We just did a first-floor renovation. Started with a kitchen remodel and expanded from there. We have a family room addition on the back of the house that needed additional heat, so we had the plumbers add a 15-foot run of baseboard heat into that room. After they finished, we loved how nice and clean the new baseboard looked so I asked them to quote replacing the old ones in the front of the house (two straight runs, no corners, one is 16 feet and one is 15 feet). They quoted $3200 just to replace those. Insane money! Thank you so much for making this incredibly intuitive and easy to follow video. I will be replacing these myself and saving thousands of $$$ in the process. You rock brother!!!
That was an excellent video. Your voice was clear. Your knowledge obvious. Your presentation detailed. I understood everything and my installation was successful. Good job. Thanks.
Great video. Thanks so much. If you're still reviewing comments, wondering if you have a recommendation for getting the "Vane Damper" (or tilting vent lid) off and on if there is not enough room on the side of the baseboard unit to slip it off and on the brackets? For example, if you have an 8 foot unit, but only 3 or 4 feet of clearance on one side? Do you just do your best to "snap" it off and new one on the hinged brackets? Thanks!
I wish I had this video when i replaced all of mine 5 years ago! Removing the back section prior to trying to get the metal holders out/in using your method is so much easier!
I concur with the other comments. You have throughly shown how to take these baseboards apart. I am going to be cleaning the fins and then painting the baseboards. I was a bit flummoxed as to how they were put together. Thank you for a great tutorial. 👍
Thank you! I think the disassembly tips will help me to better paint our basement covers. They’re from ~1965… but in pretty good shape. We have approx 65 linear feet of them!
This is the best filmed and most clearly explained video of this process on the internet. Thank you. Do you know where I can find the plastic brackets that attach to the fins to contact the support bracket?
Those plastic pieces come with the heating element. If they are not already attached to your existing one, you can get away without having one. I wouldn’t be surprised if you can find them on Amazon.
Thank you for showing the entire process! i need to take my old rusty one in the bathroom , mainly because i see waterbugs coming through the holes around the radiator pipes. However, seeing how you need some flexibility in the radiator part to remove and put back pieces, i wonder if my idea is the right one. i was going to use grout to fill the gaps? is that advisable?
Appreciate the breakdown!!! Starting to clean these one by one and after the visual here I’m going to be able to straighten them up even more. Thank you!
I don't have that same kind of saw for cutting the cover down to size. Can I use my miter saw for that? Or, better yet, if I manage to find these covers at Lowe's or Home Depot, might they cut them for me there? (I have not yet looked into WHERE to buy the new cover.) Thanks
Great video. My biggest issue is I don't have the grip strength to squeeze and snap stuff in. When disassembling and reassembling I by passed that issue by sliding everything into place from the side.
I tried that because I have a similar issue. Problem is on my end that enough garbage fell into the channel that it made that nigh on impossible. Ended up using a small hammer to tap them through.
I'm doing this in a bathroom. Unfortunately I can't pull the heating element far enough away from the wall to clear that bottom lip shown at 2:30 and lift the back plate.
What should I do if I cannot get the baseboard holder behind my pipe because my pipe is too close to the wall. In order to get it behind it I would have to bend a part of it. That is what I had to do to get the old metal holders out
Thanks for a great video! I have a question: the room I installed the baseboard heat in is pretty small. I don’t have the room to slide the dampers in. What are my options here? Can I somehow clip them in?
Great video - When you were unboxing the new covers, what was that blue piece at the 5:10 mark? Is it just for shipping, or is it used for installation?
What do you suggest in the circumstance that the heating element has no play offering too little room for the holders to slide behind the plumbing ? Getting the old ones out wasn't a big deal, I just bent the bottom part of the holder over, but putting the new ones in...I'm reluctant to bend the new holders to get them behind the plumbing and fins, though the old ones were hardy and resilient enough to be bent back into place without seeming compromised. Not seeing another option at the moment. Any suggestions ?
Sorry for the late response. I'm sure you probably worked it out by now but, I have bent them in the past to get them in without any problems. Hopefully the quality of these new ones is still good enough to do that.
My nephews kids destroyed the covers and actually bent most of the heating element aluminum is it possible to straighten them out or should the aluminum be replaced...
If you are talking about the thin aluminum pieces on the pipe, try to open them up again. If you are talking about the cover, it will always look banged up no matter what you do to it.
Thank you for posting this.I'm remodeling my full bathroom and was debating trying to repaint the old which has been repainted 3 times before me,lol. This was explained great and helped so much. What kind of screws did you use for mounting the backplate to wall?
Good video! My family room baseboards were recently replaced due to some major damage to the room. The previous baseboards were all copper pipe and quiet. The new ones were done in Pex and they are so noisy! Every time the heat cycles on the baseboards, clink & clank so loudly for at least 3 minutes. When I complained to the plumber, he said "that's just the way the systems are now." Do you know of any way to quiet the baseboards??
Teflon tape can help on surfaces under or along side the fins can prevent squeaks. If the rib sections are catching fins the can be trimmed or flattened to avoid them. Some heaters have plastic sliders to allow for movement. I'd also put an expansion loop or add bellows for a continuous straight run over 10m
what brand is this system and wish you had named the parts at the end of the video (used in corner and to splice two pieces). don't know where to get these odds and ends for my old system. thank you!!
Thank you so much for this video! When you bought the covers - did you split the distance of a long run? Like, on a ten-foot wall, did you get two five-foot pieces, or if you had a two-foot piece left over, would you use that with an eight-foot piece? Just wondering if it is standard to try to keep things symmetrical. Thank you!
We just had a whole new system installed in an old house. Drywall is torn out in order to install new pex tubing and new baseboard heaters in the basement. The problem is they install the baseboard heaters directly to the bare wood studs before the drywall it was put back. This can’t be right? How do we replace drywall? Would you ever do it like this? Trying to get our installer to remedy, but they are ghosting us.
They made a mistake. Plumber should run any tubing necessary behind the wall prior to sheet rock. Then sheet rock gets installed then paint then install baseboards over sheet rock. That’s the right way to do it. And I hope this thing works out for you soon without too many headaches. Good luck.
We have hot water heat, I cannot figure out how to remove the covers- maybe they are painted over? That’s my best guess. Any advice? The end caps will not budge
Usually it is wadi to slide in from on particular direction. To solve your space problem, slide the brackets to one end. Slide in the top piece, slide them back into position and then snap them into the rear plate. Hopefully this helps
I don't have enough play to move the pipes away from the wall because the floor is already tiled. (I am replacing a rusty baseboard.) I think I'm going to have to make the hole in the ceramic floor tile a little bigger where the pipe already goes through that I can pull it away from the wall.
Okay baseboard master! I have watched your video, cut through my only problem screw, popped my holders but I can't get the back out. 😭 There isn't enough clearance for the holders or the back plate to come out. I called a guy, he was big mad at me for even doing this myself and said they replace the whole pipe when doing this😒 so he probably did this shit job in the first place lol. SOS I can angle grind the holders out then I think the back will slide out but then idk how I'll put anything new in here. There is very little play. Are you available for a video call lol but really tho
If the baseboard is in good shape you can, but it won’t look very nice. If you decide to do that, you would probably get better results spraying them, but that can be difficult indoors.
good video....but I've never seen a pipe with that much movement to allow fitting brackets behind. Seems very unrealistic. Hard to believe the pipe joints would stand that much movement. Regardless 99% of cases don't have that much play and brackets don't fit behind without significant bending of bracket. Very frustrating.
I would send the baseboard heaters to slant fin or a quality auto body shop and have them reconditioned and repainted so that they can be used again. Most of the time they usually aren’t badly with dents…just the paint finish is a bit scratched or slightly rusted
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We just did a first-floor renovation. Started with a kitchen remodel and expanded from there. We have a family room addition on the back of the house that needed additional heat, so we had the plumbers add a 15-foot run of baseboard heat into that room. After they finished, we loved how nice and clean the new baseboard looked so I asked them to quote replacing the old ones in the front of the house (two straight runs, no corners, one is 16 feet and one is 15 feet). They quoted $3200 just to replace those. Insane money!
Thank you so much for making this incredibly intuitive and easy to follow video. I will be replacing these myself and saving thousands of $$$ in the process. You rock brother!!!
People are asking ridiculous prices for everything these days.
Super helpful, I finally understand why my baseboard covers are a mess and what I can do to fix them! Thank you!!
That was an excellent video. Your voice was clear. Your knowledge obvious. Your presentation detailed. I understood everything and my installation was successful. Good job. Thanks.
THANK YOU!! I look mine apart to clean and couldn't remember how to put them back together. Your video is excellent!
Glad I could help!!
Appreciate you for doing this video! I have to take mine apart to seal holes. This makes it seem easier than imagined!! Thank you and God bless you!
Great video. Very detailed and easy to explain. I watched a few others and yours by far was the best.
Great video. Thanks so much. If you're still reviewing comments, wondering if you have a recommendation for getting the "Vane Damper" (or tilting vent lid) off and on if there is not enough room on the side of the baseboard unit to slip it off and on the brackets? For example, if you have an 8 foot unit, but only 3 or 4 feet of clearance on one side? Do you just do your best to "snap" it off and new one on the hinged brackets? Thanks!
Install the damper before you slide the brackets behind the pipe. Then slide the brackets right or left into position.
Brilliant. Thanks so much for the reply. @@ArtisanMade
I wish I had this video when i replaced all of mine 5 years ago! Removing the back section prior to trying to get the metal holders out/in using your method is so much easier!
I concur with the other comments. You have throughly shown how to take these baseboards apart. I am going to be cleaning the fins and then painting the baseboards. I was a bit flummoxed as to how they were put together. Thank you for a great tutorial. 👍
Great, thanks for presenting this in such a clear format.
Thanks for your Demonstration and video 📹 I appreciate you 👍
Exactly the video I’ve been searching for thank you!
Thank you! I think the disassembly tips will help me to better paint our basement covers. They’re from ~1965… but in pretty good shape. We have approx 65 linear feet of them!
Were you able to reinstall the covers easily? I just want to paint mine too.
@@bricksInMyBp Yes… just a little fidgeting and they snapped together. I had numbered them all inside so no guesswork as to sequence.
This is the best filmed and most clearly explained video of this process on the internet. Thank you. Do you know where I can find the plastic brackets that attach to the fins to contact the support bracket?
Those plastic pieces come with the heating element. If they are not already attached to your existing one, you can get away without having one. I wouldn’t be surprised if you can find them on Amazon.
Very helpful, thanks for sharing
Best demo for this task. Great job…
Best, detailed demo so far.
Thank you for showing the entire process! i need to take my old rusty one in the bathroom , mainly because i see waterbugs coming through the holes around the radiator pipes. However, seeing how you need some flexibility in the radiator part to remove and put back pieces, i wonder if my idea is the right one. i was going to use grout to fill the gaps? is that advisable?
Your video got the job done for me thank you! Sir
GD BLESS IT. DO you have any idea how long I struggled with the clamps? At 2:30 ish you have this really good tip I can't wait to try.
Yeah, it worked. Like, so well. Thank you.
Appreciate the breakdown!!! Starting to clean these one by one and after the visual here I’m going to be able to straighten them up even more. Thank you!
One of the best video for baseboard installation in here !!! Great job 👏 I am one of your fan
Thank you brother!!
I don't have that same kind of saw for cutting the cover down to size. Can I use my miter saw for that? Or, better yet, if I manage to find these covers at Lowe's or Home Depot, might they cut them for me there? (I have not yet looked into WHERE to buy the new cover.) Thanks
Mine are very dirty. I'm thinking I will just uninstall, paint, and reinstall. Great video though. Seems a lot easier than i thought it would be!
What do you paint them with mine are horrible?
Thank you for a thorough explanation! It helped a lot!!
your video was very helpful, thank you so much!
Really Thorough. i will be installing this soon. Thank you!
Love the step by step..thank uuuuu🙏🏽
Great video. My biggest issue is I don't have the grip strength to squeeze and snap stuff in. When disassembling and reassembling I by passed that issue by sliding everything into place from the side.
I tried that because I have a similar issue. Problem is on my end that enough garbage fell into the channel that it made that nigh on impossible. Ended up using a small hammer to tap them through.
what does it look like inside of the walls where baseboard heaters are?
Nicely done. Mine are 60's, so nails instead of screws. They will be screws accessible from the front when I'm finished!!
Very helpful video!! Thank u!!
Never done these but mine are all messed up, thanks for the video that shows a great breakdown. Another project for my list!
Thanks for sharing!
Great video!
Thanks for the video. It was really helpful to get my covers done right!
Fantastic video!
I'm doing this in a bathroom. Unfortunately I can't pull the heating element far enough away from the wall to clear that bottom lip shown at 2:30 and lift the back plate.
Going through this right now.... How did you get around this issue?
Great video
This is awesome!!
What should I do if I cannot get the baseboard holder behind my pipe because my pipe is too close to the wall. In order to get it behind it I would have to bend a part of it. That is what I had to do to get the old metal holders out
I have successfully bent the holder to slide it behind the pipe
Thanks for a great video! I have a question: the room I installed the baseboard heat in is pretty small. I don’t have the room to slide the dampers in. What are my options here? Can I somehow clip them in?
They won’t clip in. Slide the holders on it first. Then put holders behind the pipe and slide them into position
Great vedeo
Where do you order parts ? I have a Ouse built in 1962 and I need the brackets!!!
Big box stores sell them.
Great video - When you were unboxing the new covers, what was that blue piece at the 5:10 mark? Is it just for shipping, or is it used for installation?
good vid i was trying to figure out how to put in those gosh darn clip . Thanks bud.
Thank you for your help so much
I think my heater back cover was installed before the pluming, how do you cut it off so you don’t damage the pipe?
I demonstrate this in the video.
@ thanks I didn’t see in this video, I saw you cutting behind the back cover.. not with pipe coming through
Great vid. that came out super good.
Nice video, process seems simple enough. So glad I don’t have to deal with that type of heating though!
Very helpful video. Thank you sir.
Awesome video, thank you! What part number did you use? It doesn’t com3 with the heating fins…
Not sure what the part number is. I bought them at Home Depot. They are available with the heating element or without.
What do you suggest in the circumstance that the heating element has no play offering too little room for the holders to slide behind the plumbing ? Getting the old ones out wasn't a big deal, I just bent the bottom part of the holder over, but putting the new ones in...I'm reluctant to bend the new holders to get them behind the plumbing and fins, though the old ones were hardy and resilient enough to be bent back into place without seeming compromised. Not seeing another option at the moment. Any suggestions ?
Sorry for the late response. I'm sure you probably worked it out by now but, I have bent them in the past to get them in without any problems. Hopefully the quality of these new ones is still good enough to do that.
I'm having the exact same problem. This process has been fighting me tooth and nail every step of the way.
My nephews kids destroyed the covers and actually bent most of the heating element aluminum is it possible to straighten them out or should the aluminum be replaced...
If you are talking about the thin aluminum pieces on the pipe, try to open them up again. If you are talking about the cover, it will always look banged up no matter what you do to it.
Thank you for posting this.I'm remodeling my full bathroom and was debating trying to repaint the old which has been repainted 3 times before me,lol. This was explained great and helped so much. What kind of screws did you use for mounting the backplate to wall?
Regular drywall screws work well
A great video! Thank you!
Good video! My family room baseboards were recently replaced due to some major damage to the room. The previous baseboards were all copper pipe and quiet. The new ones were done in Pex and they are so noisy! Every time the heat cycles on the baseboards, clink & clank so loudly for at least 3 minutes. When I complained to the plumber, he said "that's just the way the systems are now." Do you know of any way to quiet the baseboards??
Unfortunately that is normal due to expansion when everything is heating up. The larger the system, the louder it is going to me.
Teflon tape can help on surfaces under or along side the fins can prevent squeaks. If the rib sections are catching fins the can be trimmed or flattened to avoid them. Some heaters have plastic sliders to allow for movement. I'd also put an expansion loop or add bellows for a continuous straight run over 10m
Very good video but were did you get the covers from ? Thanks
Home depot and lowes have them
i can't get the foldable fin on ! no room on left or right to slide it on ???
Great Video! Thanks
what brand is this system and wish you had named the parts at the end of the video (used in corner and to splice two pieces). don't know where to get these odds and ends for my old system. thank you!!
Purchased at the big box store. All parts are in the box except for the end caps and corner cover.
Great job great vid
How thick is the metal on the front panel and back plate? Looks about 0.8mm? Also does that narrow outlet plate act as an adjustable damper?
Not sure how thick. The thin piece is a damper.
this video helped me a lot ! thank u !
How would I slide in middle ( adjustable vent cover ) in a confined space . 4ft bass board in a 5ft bathroom?
You will have to install the thin strip on the brackets first then slide the brackets behind the pipe
What to do if the aluminum fins are all bent out of shape and need to be replaced???
New ones are included with the new covers.
Excellent video! Exactly what I was looking for. Great editing to! Thank you!
What brand are the covers?
Don’t remember these are the ones they sell at home Depot and Lowe’s.
Thank you so much for this video! When you bought the covers - did you split the distance of a long run? Like, on a ten-foot wall, did you get two five-foot pieces, or if you had a two-foot piece left over, would you use that with an eight-foot piece? Just wondering if it is standard to try to keep things symmetrical. Thank you!
I try avoiding a very small section because it get tricky to install. If it is going to always be visible try to make them look more even.
Can you have this and central air?
Sure. I have central air too.
Thank you!
We just had a whole new system installed in an old house. Drywall is torn out in order to install new pex tubing and new baseboard heaters in the basement. The problem is they install the baseboard heaters directly to the bare wood studs before the drywall it was put back. This can’t be right? How do we replace drywall? Would you ever do it like this? Trying to get our installer to remedy, but they are ghosting us.
They made a mistake. Plumber should run any tubing necessary behind the wall prior to sheet rock. Then sheet rock gets installed then paint then install baseboards over sheet rock. That’s the right way to do it. And I hope this thing works out for you soon without too many headaches. Good luck.
We have hot water heat, I cannot figure out how to remove the covers- maybe they are painted over? That’s my best guess. Any advice? The end caps will not budge
Send me a picture to artisanmadethings@gmail.com
How thick should the blade be on the angle grinder?
It’s about 1/16 of an inch. The thicker wheel is for grinding
What about when the top piece thar adjusts the amount of heat coming out cant slide in like you did? I have limited side space
Usually it is wadi to slide in from on particular direction. To solve your space problem, slide the brackets to one end. Slide in the top piece, slide them back into position and then snap them into the rear plate. Hopefully this helps
Ty buddy
Where can we order new baseboard heaters from?
Home Depot or lowes has them
Where can I buy the baseboard back plate without the radiator?
I bought mine at Home Depot but Lowe’s sells them too
@@ArtisanMade Thanks 🙏 I’ll check both places.
What if you don't have room to slide that thin top piece in? Like in a small bathroom.
Attach it first to the holders before sliding them behind the heating pipe
@@ArtisanMade thank you
Couldnt you just use tin snips to cut out for the pipe?
Metal is too thick for snips
Where did you get the whole kit?
Home Depot and Lowes sell them
What kind of screws did you use?
Use drywall screws
Thank you!
Will construction screws work? They don't seem to penetrate the metal, am I just using the wrong power drill?
TheRawski they work but they are harder to get through. Use drywall screws if you have them.
thanks
OMG I am renovating an apartment and the hot water covers are shit. What is the source of the covers you show here?
Home Depot
I don't have enough play to move the pipes away from the wall because the floor is already tiled. (I am replacing a rusty baseboard.) I think I'm going to have to make the hole in the ceramic floor tile a little bigger where the pipe already goes through that I can pull it away from the wall.
You can bend the bottom of the metal that the elements sit on, than they could fit behind sometimes..
Okay baseboard master! I have watched your video, cut through my only problem screw, popped my holders but I can't get the back out. 😭 There isn't enough clearance for the holders or the back plate to come out. I called a guy, he was big mad at me for even doing this myself and said they replace the whole pipe when doing this😒 so he probably did this shit job in the first place lol.
SOS I can angle grind the holders out then I think the back will slide out but then idk how I'll put anything new in here. There is very little play.
Are you available for a video call lol but really tho
PS, I'm in the bathroom a short 5' span
I'm sorry it didn't work out so easily for you.
Do you caulk the top of the baseboard to the wall?
No, not necessary.
Wish I'd seen this before I did my kitchen. I got it done but not easily. The section in my den will be a breeze now
Can you paint the baseboard cover instead of replacing?
If the baseboard is in good shape you can, but it won’t look very nice. If you decide to do that, you would probably get better results spraying them, but that can be difficult indoors.
Definitely. Remove the covers, sand them to remove rust, wash them and the spray paint them outdoors. Take your time and they will look great.
Most old ones are nailed
Sheetrock too.
Magnet doesn't work really good when you have wooden studs
The magnet is used to find the nails/screws in the stud, not the stud itself …
good video....but I've never seen a pipe with that much movement to allow fitting brackets behind. Seems very unrealistic. Hard to believe the pipe joints would stand that much movement. Regardless 99% of cases don't have that much play and brackets don't fit behind without significant bending of bracket. Very frustrating.
I have done this over a dozen times. Most of the time I have been able to squeeze them in without a problem.
I used to do plumbing but I had never don baseboard. I was about to pay a lot of money to replace my baseboard
I would send the baseboard heaters to slant fin or a quality auto body shop and have them reconditioned and repainted so that they can be used again. Most of the time they usually aren’t badly with dents…just the paint finish is a bit scratched or slightly rusted
Nice CPU cooler.
I’m totally watching this for the accent.
Tin snips are cheap.
Too thick for snips