Intake snorkels/velocity stacks: The length is a "tuning" instrument. Think about it. The air flows in with some speed, the intake valve slams shut and suddenly there's this pressure wave bouncing backward up through the intake, then the intake valve opens. Depending on the length of the velocity stack, that rebounding pressure wave will be timed to provide the most efficient air flow back through the system. It's sort of like a two-stroke muffler, they optimize power at a given RPM. Usually longer velocity stacks optimize lower RPM power at the expense of peak RPM power. You're moving the power around by changing the velocity stack length.
Man, you really up'd the low to mid range power. Hopefully you won't lose too much of that. So much fun modding these low power bikes to ring the most out of them and make it totally yours. Good stuff! 🙂
Overall seems like none of these power mods are worth it at all. End of the day I didn't buy my crf for power (would've got a KTM), I bought it so I can ride it everyday for years and not have to maintain it whatsoever besides a bit of oil knowing Honda engineered it to reliability perfection. But I am glad you're doing it for us so we can make that choice!
That’s kinda the goal. Have super high reliability and low maintenance. But still have a fun bike with a bit more power then it came with. But most people don’t get that at all. Just look at the comments. “Why didn’t you just get (insert $11k enduro bike)?” If you have to ask then you don’t understand. Also it’s just fun to play with these things. People mod out Grom’s all day. Do we tell them “should’ve just got a 636 dummy”? No!
I've added KN air filter, exhaust, EJK, and that's the absolute end of engine mods on my 250L. The racetech suspension makes the bike way faster than the stage 1 engine mods.
Hey bro, just thought id say you were my entertainment as a kid growing up almost 10 years ago now. I loved riding but I was quite young at the time so couldn't really ride as much as I would like to, so i would watch you. supermoto sundays were my favourite, I'm 18 now and finally bought myself a new bike to get used to again (WR250) and I love it, just thought id say thanks for making my childhood even more enjoyable
Enjoy your videos. I did the 550 ECU and a LeoVince exhaust and it seems to have woken the bike up quite a bit. Not sure how much more I'm willing to do but one of those air filters seems like a good idea.
Short runner vs long runner. This applies to all engines. Cool stuff. As for the plastic, I work with some stout stuff.. might be interesting when I get a KLX sm
Just a fyi on disconnecting the gas tank's fuel line. You don't need to use any picks or other tools on the fuel line connector. The connector 'by design' is made to decouple without any tools. Place your thumb on the retainer tab, lift it up to release the lock then push entire u-shape piece in, and its disconnected. Doing it 'by the book' so to speak is faster, easier and removes the chance of damaging the connector.
i would try and get it retuned again. maybe dynojet can remote in to another tuners shop and make sure it’s all dialed with the new intake. stoked you found what was choking that thing out
You can 3d print TPU which is a flexible rubber like material. Its the same material that is used in skateboard wheels and it is extremely durable and would be perfect in this application
Yeah Rivet can do that and told me if I sent that boot to him he'd remake it better. I just didn't want to do that because it's not something you can buy.
@@TheGardenSnake If they provided the cad file people can find shops locally that will print stuff for them. It's a little extra work but that means other people can get their hands on one as well
Gosh Jake.... the old snake size problem ehh'....lmao, I always said; My ain't as long as a beer can but it's bigger around ! That may solve the air problem you were having but IDKnow? I'm close to buying the Rally version & I'm here b/c you're a neighbor of mine. Just learning a bit..... or not? peace man
I was actually thinking about taking the airbox out completely and just put a pod filter straight onto the throttle body and try that out im not worried about mud and stuff.
As I posted months ago , you could have just cut the inner dong part flush with the front part of the air box (leaving the sealing flange) creating a still air box. I also left the resonator off and plugged the port hole with a rubber plug and glue. Better fuel/air mixture flow.
For all these dorks giving you grief for the work you've done on this bike, ignore them. I for one, am very grateful for it as I'm now very familiar with the innards of my CRF...and you did all the work! At first I thought you were a bit annoying...but then I figured you out, subbed and think you're a pretty cool dude and funny as hell. Great work! I've actually learned a lot even though I'm pretty handy...you're a pretty good MacGyver.
Does anyone know of any tuning shop in the North East? Made the switch from a DRZ400SM to a 690 SMCR but it would be nice to get those emission stuff off and get a proper tune.
Dude do you have a Honda part number for that part please ? As the ones i find on line for the CBR300R look nothing like that one Cheers in advance 😁😁🤘🤘
"when are you leaving, where do you live" In other words... help me steal that sweet bike and by the way, I'm ready for you to go home now so I can follow you.
Hi Jake, I don’t really want to cut my airbox but I thought I could pull out the existing tube and cut it so it was flush with the inside of the air box wall, what do you think? The affect would be pretty similar I guess?
If you did that you would have a pretty sharp edge. The rounded over edge of the cbr boot is a good thing to have. And here’s the deal, you’ll have to pull you air box out regardless. There’s no way you’ll be able to get it back in through air box and on the throttle body. Oh and you need to silicone back on too. Your gonna have to pop the air box off and that’s the “hard” part. Cutting that whole is easy and the air boot is cheap. I’d say if you want to do this then do it all the way. The time, effort, and money between that way and the right way are minimal.
Could you just take the stock one cut it make it shorter and glue it back together? That way you move the power band a bit up but conserve some mid and low end
Jake, great video but I have a question, I have a 2021 CRF300L with 550 Performance 1.5 ECU, their Hurricane air filter, high flow air box velocity stack, high flow air box lid and a full Yoshimura RS4 exhaust. Although it runs great and has excellent power, for some reason my bike will not throttle up in first gear like your bike, what do you think? Are there other mods that you have that i'm missing?
Your low end power is surprisingly high. The 550 ECUs only seem to add significant upper end power according to their charts. Would that just be a tuning difference?
I’m not that tech , but couldn’t you cut the stock intake shorter ( same as snorkel ) wouldn’t this also improve air flow I think 🤔 you said 1mm difference? , I know is this is an old vid but just doing so e mods only 300 Rally Paul from Australia
@@TheGardenSnake It'll be interesting to see how the new power curve compares to the previous "monster mid-range" curve. If you were to amputate the CRF internal intake schlong flush with the inside of the airbox it might perform about the same as the CBR unit. And, if it turns out that shortening the schlong reduces low-end while increasing top end, it might be possible to tune that trade for individual preference by shortening the schlong "appropriately" without completely removing it.
Well this bike is fuel injected so it doesn’t have jets. The fueling might be a bit off but it’s the same at any altitude. To maximize power and longevity tuning is recommended.
So if the intake size going into the throttle body is the same ID, can you just cut the snorkel off and get the same resulting airflow? And then its a free mod instead of buying parts? That would be an interesting comparison!
It would also fit better than the CBR unit. I'd bet it's close, but I wouldn't be surprised to find the CBR unit is just a little bit better at high-RPM flow.
The velocity stack on the CBR one is very important. Cutting it would have a rough edge. I suppose you could try to flare the end out but that would be a good bit of work. Especially since at the end of the day you basically have to do the same thing to put the CBR one in. And the CBR One was like 20 bucks.
@@TheGardenSnake so it would be best to keep the resonator installed? I've also heard the cbr300 throttle body is bigger. Is that true? Would a cbr tb be worth using?
At this point it is basically the same as the cbr motor. Been that way since the cams. I wouldn’t necessarily gain anything. Actually the gearing would be taller in the lower gears, not ideal.
@@TheGardenSnake eager to see that, my stock but regeared WR walks my buddy’s 300 with a full exhaust every time we drag. Wanting to see a full mod comparison now lol.
That’s what I did, but it’s actually that 60mm hole he cut out that optimizes air flow. If your not going to add the velocity stack. I say just remove the stock tube all together. I did that too, which gave it a deep grunty intake sound.
@@coltonweber4905yep, that’s what I did too. Works great. But I just realized that this is a completely different tube Jake is working with. We actually have 2 of those tubes in the air box, and the one that Jake replaced in this video is the one on the other side of the air box that connects directly to the throttle body/carburetor. Sorry, I was a bit confused at first. But I think I’m going to go ahead and do this too. I really didn’t feel like pulling the air box off, especially on my bike because I have a Rally, and it’s probably more involved than doing it on the 300l, but I’m sure it’s worth it. After I do mine, I’m sure I’ll be helping my buddy with his on his 300l. He usually does everything I do. Lol...
@airadaimagery692 yea the velocity stack. Its a pain getting the air box out but worth it. I also installed the cbr cams and the 550 tune. Next will be the big bore kit.
@@coltonweber4905 I did the ECU tune as well. I started out with the stock improved tune, and then later on went with the stage 1.0. I’m taking my time and making small incremental steps so that I can learn how the bike responds to each performance mod. I’m curious how much of a difference the CBR Cams will make. Are they really worth the cost and labor? I will be upgrading to a Big Bore kit, but it probably won’t be until next season. My bike runs so much better than stock. And it’s not that I needed more performance in power, it’s the power management that I have been impressed with by flashing the ECU. Just doing the stock improved tune improved throttle response, and made power delivery more linear. I installed a 42T rear sprocket last week, and the results were pretty shocking. I expected to sacrifice some top end performance for a little lower end pep, but surprisingly, I didn’t lose any top end performance, and my front tire comes off the ground now without having to really work for it.
What if you just cut the stock CRF pipe from within the airbox my opening the airbox lid. If i used stanley knife and made it shorter, wouldnt that allow more airflow?
No, it would still be about the same amount of work. Even more, because you would have two bikes to take apart, but still have to mod your original airbox, throttle linkages, etc. Not to mention the cost. You're not going to just find a low milage CBR300 laying around for less than the parts Jake put in. Then you would have the problem with the ECU trying to reprogram it to work with all of the other peripherals on the bike, etc, etc.. Then at the end of the build, you would still have a bike that has less power than a carbureted DRZ400. If going to go that route, then you might as well put a CBR500 motor in it.
@@TheGardenSnake do you have a video on the emissions removal? Tried finding it and not having any luck. You’ve got a lot of good videos though so I could’ve overlooked it
Instead of going through all that why not just cut the pipe dong whatever you call that thing off shorter with a Stanley knife? If it’s the same size and everything.
@@robertevans6418 The "test" was the trip in the desert, the bike had issues. " bad air flow, make bike not run good." Voice in Jakes mind. 🤣 Sorry had too. But really the air flow a small rippling can cause the air to kill an engine, that is why most air to engine ports are ground smooth on race engine ports.
@@thomasohanlon1060 I understand that, do you not understand what I meant by it would have been good to see the effect that shortening stock intake length would have achieved, be that good or bad in the video.....if it is bad(which it probably is) or a marginal improvement, it would still serve a purpose in a series of videos about mods on the crf300
Honest the cbr300r doesn't make any power. Felt like a big grom with crappy handle bars imma stay with my OG big red pig, 1983 XL600R that I've supermoto.
I dont understand so mutch hate is hus bike his mods experimenting if you dont like it and move on jesus! Talking about karens we ride two wheels lets have fun
@@PP-wz7mp Some of us enjoy tuning and playing with the stuff we own. Some like leaving it how it came from the factory. It's not gonna be much for content going "hi this is a stock crf300l motor let's check bearing surface wear on standard Honda motor oil every 1000 miles" every video though. Tuning and playing with em is like half the fun to some of us. One of these days you'll ride something with custom suspension and your world will change.
Power is only one part of the puzzle. I'm weighing the 300L against KTM's 690 Enduro for my next bike. My use-case is a travel bike that can carry me and my camping gear anywhere I can legally ride and then, after I unload it and make camp, take me down any gnarly trail I want to explore. The 690 starts off with almost 3x the power and a much better suspension, but it's 40 lb heavier and costs almost 2x as much. The speed ratio between high gear and low gear on the 690 is only 2.88, which means as a practical matter that you can have it geared well for the highway or for the trail, but not both at the same time. The speed ratio for the 300L is 3.82, which is *absolutely outstanding*. For nearly $3k you can buy a Nova wide-ratio gearset for the 690, but then you have to completely disassemble the engine to install the new gears and you still only have a speed ratio of 3.33 (which is better, but you still might have to swap countershaft sprockets when switching from road work to trail riding). For less than that, and a lot less work, you can fix the 300L suspension and squeeze a few more ponies out of the engine to make it a little better on the highway and a little better at hauling a load up a steep dirt road in the mountains.
@@adstryker5084 Dang you've gone deep haha. I've always loved the idea of a 690/701. But I've know way too many people that have had issues with them. It's always goofy stuff too. Random sensor, bike won't start, dash breaks, fuel pump dies, it's leaking oil. Like no one else makes a modern big bore (600+cc) dual sport. We really need that!
What if you enjoy working on motorcycles and figure you'd like to see how much more you can get? Some of us like to turn a wrench and optimize motors. If it is mechanical it has room to improve even my r1.
Dude, you’ve got the best crf300l content. I think you’ve done everything that can be done to it. If not, you will soon lol. I liked your response to the guy creepily asking where you live😂. GG space gnome. GG🫶
Dude, the world is patiently waiting for a dyno after the air box mods.
He gets all this shit done with no info
Intake snorkels/velocity stacks:
The length is a "tuning" instrument. Think about it. The air flows in with some speed, the intake valve slams shut and suddenly there's this pressure wave bouncing backward up through the intake, then the intake valve opens. Depending on the length of the velocity stack, that rebounding pressure wave will be timed to provide the most efficient air flow back through the system. It's sort of like a two-stroke muffler, they optimize power at a given RPM.
Usually longer velocity stacks optimize lower RPM power at the expense of peak RPM power. You're moving the power around by changing the velocity stack length.
Man, you really up'd the low to mid range power. Hopefully you won't lose too much of that. So much fun modding these low power bikes to ring the most out of them and make it totally yours. Good stuff! 🙂
Overall seems like none of these power mods are worth it at all. End of the day I didn't buy my crf for power (would've got a KTM), I bought it so I can ride it everyday for years and not have to maintain it whatsoever besides a bit of oil knowing Honda engineered it to reliability perfection. But I am glad you're doing it for us so we can make that choice!
That’s kinda the goal. Have super high reliability and low maintenance. But still have a fun bike with a bit more power then it came with. But most people don’t get that at all. Just look at the comments. “Why didn’t you just get (insert $11k enduro bike)?” If you have to ask then you don’t understand. Also it’s just fun to play with these things. People mod out Grom’s all day. Do we tell them “should’ve just got a 636 dummy”? No!
@@TheGardenSnake You got a grom just to mod it and get some more power??? Should have just gotten an H2 man wtf!!
😂
I've added KN air filter, exhaust, EJK, and that's the absolute end of engine mods on my 250L. The racetech suspension makes the bike way faster than the stage 1 engine mods.
Exactly, a waste of money and time....
Hey bro, just thought id say you were my entertainment as a kid growing up almost 10 years ago now. I loved riding but I was quite young at the time so couldn't really ride as much as I would like to, so i would watch you. supermoto sundays were my favourite, I'm 18 now and finally bought myself a new bike to get used to again (WR250) and I love it, just thought id say thanks for making my childhood even more enjoyable
It is crazy how long we've been watching huh
Enjoy your videos. I did the 550 ECU and a LeoVince exhaust and it seems to have woken the bike up quite a bit. Not sure how much more I'm willing to do but one of those air filters seems like a good idea.
My 300 Rally is still stock. Your bike looks like a lot more fun. Great video!
Short runner vs long runner. This applies to all engines. Cool stuff. As for the plastic, I work with some stout stuff.. might be interesting when I get a KLX sm
Love your attention to detail. Interesting stuff! Thx
Nice frigging wheelies man! Awesome! Nice job!
I’m looking forward to seeing some mainstream movement on big bore kits and performances cams.
I appreciate the how to videos and sharing the information about this awesome bike
Just a fyi on disconnecting the gas tank's fuel line. You don't need to use any picks or other tools on the fuel line connector. The connector 'by design' is made to decouple without any tools. Place your thumb on the retainer tab, lift it up to release the lock then push entire u-shape piece in, and its disconnected. Doing it 'by the book' so to speak is faster, easier and removes the chance of damaging the connector.
I'll try that next time, thanks
Once you mentioned about the snorkel being phallic, everything about the hole sizes and opening that hole just went somewhere lmao
i would try and get it retuned again. maybe dynojet can remote in to another tuners shop and make sure it’s all dialed with the new intake. stoked you found what was choking that thing out
making parts from other bikes work on your own is enjoyable
You can 3d print TPU which is a flexible rubber like material. Its the same material that is used in skateboard wheels and it is extremely durable and would be perfect in this application
Yeah Rivet can do that and told me if I sent that boot to him he'd remake it better. I just didn't want to do that because it's not something you can buy.
@@TheGardenSnake If they provided the cad file people can find shops locally that will print stuff for them. It's a little extra work but that means other people can get their hands on one as well
helpful video. note: you have to remove exhaust if you have stock
I put a DNA air filter, KDX intake and a fuel controller on my 300SM and it feels a lot better on the ol butt dyno and better throttle response
The permanent is a very good choice
I like the big intake
Gosh Jake.... the old snake size problem ehh'....lmao, I always said; My ain't as long as a beer can but it's bigger around ! That may
solve the air problem you were having but IDKnow? I'm close to buying the Rally version & I'm here b/c you're a neighbor of mine.
Just learning a bit..... or not? peace man
I was actually thinking about taking the airbox out completely and just put a pod filter straight onto the throttle body and try that out im not worried about mud and stuff.
As I posted months ago , you could have just cut the inner dong part flush with the front part of the air box (leaving the sealing flange) creating a still air box. I also left the resonator off and plugged the port hole with a rubber plug and glue. Better fuel/air mixture flow.
Really wish for a company to make this new airbox I could just fit and play with it 🙏
Maybe I’m waaaaaay into my own head but when you held it up to your head and said “ohhhh it’s offensive”, was that an Actman/Quantum thing?
For all these dorks giving you grief for the work you've done on this bike, ignore them. I for one, am very grateful for it as I'm now very familiar with the innards of my CRF...and you did all the work! At first I thought you were a bit annoying...but then I figured you out, subbed and think you're a pretty cool dude and funny as hell. Great work! I've actually learned a lot even though I'm pretty handy...you're a pretty good MacGyver.
MacGyver complement is the highest praise. Thanks for giving me a chance. I know I’m pretty odd. 🙏
Lovely flow tube chart lol it’s now how long it is, but how you use it 😂
Does anyone know of any tuning shop in the North East? Made the switch from a DRZ400SM to a 690 SMCR but it would be nice to get those emission stuff off and get a proper tune.
Dude do you have a Honda part number for that part please ? As the ones i find on line for the CBR300R look nothing like that one
Cheers in advance 😁😁🤘🤘
Jake what are the mirrors called you on your 300l??
"when are you leaving, where do you live" In other words... help me steal that sweet bike and by the way, I'm ready for you to go home now so I can follow you.
Wait Aris not with Revzilla anymore? Or what did you say there?
Bought one 2 dayyyyyy.
Where do I get a seat like that?
Why even have the air box? just a short sleeve and then a filter
Hi Jake, I don’t really want to cut my airbox but I thought I could pull out the existing tube and cut it so it was flush with the inside of the air box wall, what do you think? The affect would be pretty similar I guess?
If you did that you would have a pretty sharp edge. The rounded over edge of the cbr boot is a good thing to have. And here’s the deal, you’ll have to pull you air box out regardless. There’s no way you’ll be able to get it back in through air box and on the throttle body. Oh and you need to silicone back on too. Your gonna have to pop the air box off and that’s the “hard” part. Cutting that whole is easy and the air boot is cheap. I’d say if you want to do this then do it all the way. The time, effort, and money between that way and the right way are minimal.
Can you PM a fellow Texan I have a 300l with a pipe, air box mod, and emissions delete, do you flash ecu,s and is the cbr snout worth it.
Could you just take the stock one cut it make it shorter and glue it back together? That way you move the power band a bit up but conserve some mid and low end
I suppose you could try
where do you live?... that was weird af
What is this, the early bird upload
I scheduled it 🤷♂️
Jake, great video but I have a question, I have a 2021 CRF300L with 550 Performance 1.5 ECU, their Hurricane air filter, high flow air box velocity stack, high flow air box lid and a full Yoshimura RS4 exhaust. Although it runs great and has excellent power, for some reason my bike will not throttle up in first gear like your bike, what do you think? Are there other mods that you have that i'm missing?
Probably just need the tune dialed in a bit more. Every time I’ve had it dyno tuned it’s crazy how responsive it gets.
Your low end power is surprisingly high. The 550 ECUs only seem to add significant upper end power according to their charts. Would that just be a tuning difference?
It added a lot of low-mid range power to mine. My bike pulls away from my buddy’s stock 300l in 1st-4th gear.
Makes me want one for myself, this bike is cool!
Do you know the weight as it is right now with supermoto wheels and all the other mods?
No but I'll try to weight it, that is in the plans. Need to call around local farms for an animal scale.
@@TheGardenSnake Try a feed store or a CAT scale at a truck stop.
@@TheGardenSnake even a recycling place/scrap yard I'd imagine wouldn't mind
Man I’ve been trying to do third gear wheelies and Deff need some mods to pull it up like that
It makes it possible! Of course now I have a built engine and it’s easy.
Laate comment, but can you shorten the stock one instead of changing it out?
Wait, So the 250L has the same HP as the 300L?
I’m not that tech , but couldn’t you cut the stock intake shorter ( same as snorkel ) wouldn’t this also improve air flow I think 🤔 you said 1mm difference? , I know is this is an old vid but just doing so e mods only 300 Rally
Paul from Australia
Man that thing turned out so sick! Any plans to get it back on the dyno after this?
Yeah for sure I’ll try to do that at some point. Just don’t have one I trust around here.
@@TheGardenSnake It'll be interesting to see how the new power curve compares to the previous "monster mid-range" curve. If you were to amputate the CRF internal intake schlong flush with the inside of the airbox it might perform about the same as the CBR unit. And, if it turns out that shortening the schlong reduces low-end while increasing top end, it might be possible to tune that trade for individual preference by shortening the schlong "appropriately" without completely removing it.
@@TheGardenSnake have you seen this? Thoughts…
th-cam.com/video/yYkJHRJBdBE/w-d-xo.html
Hello i leave in idaho its a little higher altitude here doing the air box like that would i have to mess with the jets or something else
Well this bike is fuel injected so it doesn’t have jets. The fueling might be a bit off but it’s the same at any altitude. To maximize power and longevity tuning is recommended.
So if the intake size going into the throttle body is the same ID, can you just cut the snorkel off and get the same resulting airflow? And then its a free mod instead of buying parts? That would be an interesting comparison!
I was wondering the same thing
It would also fit better than the CBR unit. I'd bet it's close, but I wouldn't be surprised to find the CBR unit is just a little bit better at high-RPM flow.
The velocity stack on the CBR one is very important. Cutting it would have a rough edge. I suppose you could try to flare the end out but that would be a good bit of work. Especially since at the end of the day you basically have to do the same thing to put the CBR one in. And the CBR One was like 20 bucks.
@@TheGardenSnake Good points! Thanks for the answers!
yes, it was easy to do for me. I used an Exacto knife not a hacksaw so no rough edges.
if i want to upgrade my CRF 300 L i go in to my garage an sit on the 1000L
Any pros or cons to getting rid of the intake resonator while replacing this boot?
They do some interesting stuff that helps out, look up helmholtz resonator
@@TheGardenSnake so it would be best to keep the resonator installed?
I've also heard the cbr300 throttle body is bigger. Is that true? Would a cbr tb be worth using?
Does longer snorkel reduce chance to accidentally get water into your engine?
Yeah kinda but also not that much.
That intro😂😂😂😂
CB300R has a different airbox and I believe it has more top end power than the CBR300R.
At this point how much harder would it be to swap a cbr engine in it and tune it
At this point it is basically the same as the cbr motor. Been that way since the cams. I wouldn’t necessarily gain anything. Actually the gearing would be taller in the lower gears, not ideal.
What about a CBR 500 engine swap for the 300l
@@Shadow-gk3yi or a crf 450 r engine would be better
what headlight are you running
th-cam.com/video/dF8J0da_nnk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=D9tAfKIg1E8V3z9a
Possibly a dumb question, but it's just begging to be asked: Why not just cut the long, snorkel-y bit off the original boot and use what's left?
That's what I was thinking. If it's still the same id at the tb end, seems like less effort and will sit correct
Sharp edges, bad air flow. I guess you could try to flare it out. But the cbr boot is cheap and all in all less work.
Balance and blueprint the mt07 motor.
Time for the modded 300 and modded WR drag race rematch lol.
dude I've been trying but Ray's bike was being a POS. I think it's fixed now
@@TheGardenSnake eager to see that, my stock but regeared WR walks my buddy’s 300 with a full exhaust every time we drag. Wanting to see a full mod comparison now lol.
Brether!
Love the bike and all but what I really want is that Lays cooler
Go work for them and you can get one
@@TheGardenSnake I think I’ll just admire it from a distance.
what's the function of the resonator on the airbox?
Less intake noise.
It's a whole engineered thing that helps response and power. It's not an intake silencer but the internet tends to think that.
@@TheGardenSnake I'm glad you know what your talking about!
airbox cover 100% needs holes drilled in it
What about just cutting the stock tube down?
That’s what I did, but it’s actually that 60mm hole he cut out that optimizes air flow. If your not going to add the velocity stack. I say just remove the stock tube all together. I did that too, which gave it a deep grunty intake sound.
@airadaimagery692 yea I ended up taking the tube out completely. And the airbox door from 550. She breathes much better now.
@@coltonweber4905yep, that’s what I did too. Works great.
But I just realized that this is a completely different tube Jake is working with. We actually have 2 of those tubes in the air box, and the one that Jake replaced in this video is the one on the other side of the air box that connects directly to the throttle body/carburetor. Sorry, I was a bit confused at first.
But I think I’m going to go ahead and do this too. I really didn’t feel like pulling the air box off, especially on my bike because I have a Rally, and it’s probably more involved than doing it on the 300l, but I’m sure it’s worth it. After I do mine, I’m sure I’ll be helping my buddy with his on his 300l. He usually does everything I do. Lol...
@airadaimagery692 yea the velocity stack. Its a pain getting the air box out but worth it. I also installed the cbr cams and the 550 tune. Next will be the big bore kit.
@@coltonweber4905 I did the ECU tune as well. I started out with the stock improved tune, and then later on went with the stage 1.0. I’m taking my time and making small incremental steps so that I can learn how the bike responds to each performance mod. I’m curious how much of a difference the CBR Cams will make. Are they really worth the cost and labor? I will be upgrading to a Big Bore kit, but it probably won’t be until next season. My bike runs so much better than stock. And it’s not that I needed more performance in power, it’s the power management that I have been impressed with by flashing the ECU. Just doing the stock improved tune improved throttle response, and made power delivery more linear. I installed a 42T rear sprocket last week, and the results were pretty shocking. I expected to sacrifice some top end performance for a little lower end pep, but surprisingly, I didn’t lose any top end performance, and my front tire comes off the ground now without having to really work for it.
Dang jake
DAAAAAAAVVVVVVVVIIIIIDDD
EPA has entered the chat...
Never heard of her.
I don't like her either, but she is here and watching.
Hey I’m in Texas. We don’t have law like that for motorcycles. I can still plate a two stroke here.
What if you just cut the stock CRF pipe from within the airbox my opening the airbox lid. If i used stanley knife and made it shorter, wouldnt that allow more airflow?
Maybe but for all the effort I would just do what I did
Wouldnt it be easier to just buy a cbr300 motor and swap it into the crf?
No, it would still be about the same amount of work. Even more, because you would have two bikes to take apart, but still have to mod your original airbox, throttle linkages, etc. Not to mention the cost. You're not going to just find a low milage CBR300 laying around for less than the parts Jake put in. Then you would have the problem with the ECU trying to reprogram it to work with all of the other peripherals on the bike, etc, etc.. Then at the end of the build, you would still have a bike that has less power than a carbureted DRZ400. If going to go that route, then you might as well put a CBR500 motor in it.
Did anything you do on your upgrade help the 5k rattle?
Yeah the emissions removal, I think it was the reed valve. That noise is 100% gone.
@@TheGardenSnake do you have a video on the emissions removal? Tried finding it and not having any luck. You’ve got a lot of good videos though so I could’ve overlooked it
550 Performance worked this out already. You guys are obviously a bit slow ( if ya know what I mean)
I ordered that part months ago, it’s been on back order. But thanks 😑
The "sold out" unit at 550 looks suspiciously like the OEM CBR intake unit.
I'm giggling too much with the snorkel stuff.
I pulled that stock snorkel out of my 300l and my girl got aroused lol
I could see that
It hurts my soul every time you say Ari wrong. (Air-E)
Haha sorry
@@TheGardenSnake it’s a good day when you know you’ve tortured a soul. 😂🤣
Lol why did that guy wanna know where you live ?
🤷♂️ no idea
Probably would like to bring him breakfast in the morning.
Second comment YYEET
Instead of going through all that why not just cut the pipe dong whatever you call that thing off shorter with a Stanley knife? If it’s the same size and everything.
The end shape will still have the wrong air flow. Jake starts to explain that at time stamp 1:55, hope this helps.
@@thomasohanlon1060 still, it would've been interesting to test that out before doing this mod
Yep, the air flow would be rough like that.
@@robertevans6418 The "test" was the trip in the desert, the bike had issues. " bad air flow, make bike not run good." Voice in Jakes mind. 🤣 Sorry had too.
But really the air flow a small rippling can cause the air to kill an engine, that is why most air to engine ports are ground smooth on race engine ports.
@@thomasohanlon1060 I understand that, do you not understand what I meant by it would have been good to see the effect that shortening stock intake length would have achieved, be that good or bad in the video.....if it is bad(which it probably is) or a marginal improvement, it would still serve a purpose in a series of videos about mods on the crf300
Lmao shorter gets the job done.
Questionable sketches are questionable 🤨
ok now undo everything and just use the stumpy intake
If you mess with your air box your bike will not run correctly.
Get the ENTIRE cb300r clutch assembly. MUCH better, much more friction surface area and 2 extra springs.
It’s not like it’s slipping. Remember the stock clutch is a slipper gripper. Doesn’t need a lot of springs with that.
Honest the cbr300r doesn't make any power. Felt like a big grom with crappy handle bars imma stay with my OG big red pig, 1983 XL600R that I've supermoto.
A classic big red pig! Nice
I dont understand so mutch hate is hus bike his mods experimenting if you dont like it and move on jesus! Talking about karens we ride two wheels lets have fun
It's not hate at all....just nonsense, a waste of time and money....
@@PP-wz7mp Some of us enjoy tuning and playing with the stuff we own. Some like leaving it how it came from the factory.
It's not gonna be much for content going "hi this is a stock crf300l motor let's check bearing surface wear on standard Honda motor oil every 1000 miles" every video though.
Tuning and playing with em is like half the fun to some of us. One of these days you'll ride something with custom suspension and your world will change.
where do you live? lol
creepy guy
Full 300cc power... LOL ok. ;)
Yes… 🤷♂️
Probably easier to buy a bike with more power doofus...
Yep, you can make that argument about any bike and mods till we all end up with H2Rs. 👍
@@TheGardenSnake ... and after you get used to the H2R you're gonna want to mod that too. 😁
Power is only one part of the puzzle. I'm weighing the 300L against KTM's 690 Enduro for my next bike. My use-case is a travel bike that can carry me and my camping gear anywhere I can legally ride and then, after I unload it and make camp, take me down any gnarly trail I want to explore. The 690 starts off with almost 3x the power and a much better suspension, but it's 40 lb heavier and costs almost 2x as much. The speed ratio between high gear and low gear on the 690 is only 2.88, which means as a practical matter that you can have it geared well for the highway or for the trail, but not both at the same time. The speed ratio for the 300L is 3.82, which is *absolutely outstanding*. For nearly $3k you can buy a Nova wide-ratio gearset for the 690, but then you have to completely disassemble the engine to install the new gears and you still only have a speed ratio of 3.33 (which is better, but you still might have to swap countershaft sprockets when switching from road work to trail riding). For less than that, and a lot less work, you can fix the 300L suspension and squeeze a few more ponies out of the engine to make it a little better on the highway and a little better at hauling a load up a steep dirt road in the mountains.
@@adstryker5084 Dang you've gone deep haha. I've always loved the idea of a 690/701. But I've know way too many people that have had issues with them. It's always goofy stuff too. Random sensor, bike won't start, dash breaks, fuel pump dies, it's leaking oil. Like no one else makes a modern big bore (600+cc) dual sport. We really need that!
@@TheGardenSnake I guess I've bored out 50cc mini bikes to make them faster so i'm probably more munted
Unnecessary bullshit if you want more power just buy a bigger bike
Agreed 100%
What if you enjoy working on motorcycles and figure you'd like to see how much more you can get? Some of us like to turn a wrench and optimize motors. If it is mechanical it has room to improve even my r1.
Dude, you’ve got the best crf300l content. I think you’ve done everything that can be done to it. If not, you will soon lol. I liked your response to the guy creepily asking where you live😂. GG space gnome. GG🫶