The back plate has been turned to fit the chuck but drilling the four mount holes had a hitch. I bought four Allen cap head bolts to mount the back plate but the countersunk holes were too small. So I mounted the chuck on the Bridgeport mill and counter bored to match the bolts. Tomorrow I will transfer punch the hole positions and we will be ready to mount this heavy chuck.Thanks for the overhaul.
As soon as you got the back plate separated, I instantly was reminded of the Capstan from “TALLY HO” ha ha ha. Great job Keith! That’s wonderful of you to donate those parts to a great cause. Way to go!
Kieth, this video brought back happy memories. I grew up in New Britain, CT and delivered newspapers 7 days a week (1948-1954) on Church St. Walked by the Skinner plant every morning as the workers reported for work. Thanks for an enjoyable video.
I used to run two New Britain screw machines. Ironically, I made parts for Craftsman chucks at the Singer Plant in Pickens S.C. There's nothing left of that place now.
Keith - I'm 82 Years Old and have been Machining since I was 14 . I have never seen an Indepentant and Scroll 4 Jaw Chuck . I know it has a multitude of uses. Giving it away makes a powerful statement about Keit Rucker . I tip my hat to you. - Jim
His experiance in all these methods be it mechanical of how things work is amazing. One well schooled fella for sure. He never ceases to amaze me. I would love to see his "things" collection.
Thanks for telling us your age. 78 here and started early (10) helping grampa at the forge air and anvil. 16 on the machine tools. What do you think is going to happen when all us analog fellas/girls are gone and there is a power outage happens. NO DRO ! OH NO! ! ! I hope they keep notes on how things really work, LOL. Long retired and in a wheelchair from a missing R leg I can still use my old Chez Lathe and A ? Vertical mill, and a home made Radial arm drill (12' x 30 on the mill) My grandad made. It would be in exist of 90+ years now and still as tight as he made it from a big hydraulic cylinder and some odds and ends from a tractor if memory is right from his teachings.. Let's see one of our DRO friends do that eh. I don't know where his lathe (tractor powered) and forge are but born on a trapline 78 years ago has things just up and dissapear. Biggest memory at the forge was making chains. I couldn't get out of Home School and out to the shed to spend the rest of my day with him. Dad was in the city building a new home so I saw little of him.
This is a great video Kieth!!! ... I've never seen a 4 jaw chuck that had BOH Scroll tightening and independant!! .. and I've seen a few odd balls, like a 5 Jaw Chuck I used one in a MItsubishi Plant back when commuters had CRT Monitors! :) .. the conveyor that heated the tubes had Petagram shafts that we chucked in the 5 Jaw to fit new bearings.
I used to run an old Warner & Swasey lathe that had one of these chucks on it, man that was the most convenient chuck I've ever used. It was always smooth as silk also, and even being a 1940s lathe that chuck still only had a .0005" run out. It was so accurate that I used it to make 36" shafts for airplanes. Too bad I've never been able to find one to fit my Monarch, But I've got a SCA chuck so I can't complain too much.
Haha...I love it, Keith used the grease everybody wanted him to throw away in the hydraulic video. Good on you Kieth, keep using that grease, the old stuff is absolutely the best. It gives the haters something to complain and cringe about. 😂
Welcome to this episode of "This Old Chuck" :) Nice to see how the insides work on one of these, I've never had one apart, always learning by watching your vids, Thanks!
What a great piece for any shop or garage. I have never seen or heard of these chucks before but I think I am in love, LOL. Thanks Kieth. With a bit of love and attention this old beauty is on it's way to stardome eh.
Was thinking the same thing. With cnc it's fairly easy but on a manual machine that's going to be a whole lot more difficult. Maybe combining automatic feed on a cross slide while trepanning. Cutting "threads" on a face should work that way🤔
It looks like there are two threads that operate the jaws, the jaws have independent threads which allows for movement of each jaw, then the scroll moves the threaded parts together. A clever idea
@@chrisoverman7551this user gets it exactly. It’s the first thing that came to mind upon hearing the concept. It’s how I would do it too. Regular scroll system for the synchronous jaw movement, and on top of that mechanism, independent movement thread for each jaw. I imagine it also has its own dovetail and shim, or some other mechanism for it to slide without excessive play. Though it would be quite the complex chuck, having 7-8 slots for the chuck key to adjust the jaws. I’ve seen other systems like the two jaw chuck on vintage tabletop lathes, and a single screw file chuck on die filers with the left hand thread and grub screw trap.. Learn something new, genius and amazing every day…
I would grease the bevel gear components, but only use dry lube of some kind (PTFE, Moly, etc) on the scroll and mating parts. Grease in the scroll tends to capture fine chips and debris. Grease in back, dry lube in front works best
I have found the best way to restore old machinery is after the parts are degreased, use glass beads in a beadblast cabinet to remove all the rust and other "gunk" the degreaser could not dissolve. The amount of metal remove by glass beads is very minimal and they leave a nice finish, almost glossy if the beads are new.
Quick tip, Craftsman screwdrivers fit a 3/4" sae box wrench at the handle. Its meant for stuff like the slotted screws on the back of that chuck. Give it a whirl some time. It works great! Pretty cool chuck though! I'd love one for my m300 Harrison lathe!
I would have stoned the mating surfaces before I washed it in the parts washer, that there would be no metal chips (though miniscule) in the chuck when you reassembled the chuck.
I would have waited till after the washing, but definitely used the stones before putting the grease on anything & then I would have at least sprayed the parts that got precision stoned w brake cleaner.
@@lyleturner7593 The places he stoned did not have ant grease on them. The metal removed was minuscule and extremely fine particles. The operative word is minuscule. He didn't hog off a bunch of metal with an angle grinder into the greased parts.
Probably not that big of a deal, but I also winced a little at the stoning during assembly. It's not the metal shavings that matter as much as the abrasive grit that comes off the stones and falls into the mechanism. That grit will cause wear for as long as it's in there. It's a very tiny amount and they aren't high speed parts, so again not terrible, just not best practice.
It's ok to use as long as you do not need to be buying it all the time for yourself. As a sponsored item where you are being given gallons of it then sure, use it. I used it to do a corrosion removal on a pukko knife blade. I didn't want to pull the handle apart as it was stacked birch and in great shape so I stood the knife upright in a glass jar and filled it just to the point between the handle and the blade. It removed the corrosion on the blade but badly etched the blade at the solution/air interface. Now i use it if I have to dunk something in to completely soak it but I am careful too because there are some alloy incompatibilities with it as well. Having watched a few videos on making my own similar solution with EDTA and citric acid I think that will be my route going forward.
I did the EDTA/citruc acid solution too and was very satisfied. I used a plant seed starting heat pad to wrap around the bucket to warm it up and it worked even better!
I use Evaporust in ultrasonics. Use the heater and almost everything just takes 30 minutes. A few, badly rusted objects take another 15 to 30 more. Who knows why he’s not using that. Never go the acid or electrolytic route. They dissolve everything, including the good metal.
Thanks for showing us! That was an impressive chuck. Whish there would be such ones matching a 4" - 5" lathe.... Combine four jaw with 3 jaw centering....
I worked at a museum for a bit as their mechanic. I was setting up a little machine shop while I was there and the lathe that they let me get out was an old Putnam lathe, it had a 3 jaw that was set up like this. Interesting chuck.
Is grease the best thing to use on a chuck? It would seem over time the grease would accumulate tiny chips and make a grimy mess and possibly cause wear. I always thought that oil was the best.
That looks like a dual 4 Jaw chuck like you said and a T bolt face plate with medium slots long as well to mount odd things. Might be a combination of several methods at the same time if turning an odd, shaped item.
While I like how you did this rehab on this Chuck. I would have liked to see you dismantle the whole thing and soak it in Evaporust as you could still see some surface rust on the jaw guides and bolt holes but overall good hob
Would it be worth machining a couple small openings between the front and back of the chuck so that a chisel isn't needed to pry them apart in the future? they wouldn't need to be deep and it shouldn't effect the use of the chuck. Also, why not make a double chuck key for them with the two correct sizes on it for the chuck? Would be a quick simple but potentially interesting project to go with a video like this.
Youre a BRAVE MAN, putting grease into anything like that! I was always told anything that goes on a Mill or Lathe got OILED because grease attracts chips and swarf worse, and turns into Valve-Grinding Compound!!! Never ever in my life, sir- Hahaha but everybody's got their own thing? EDIT: cant help but chuckle that your grease container is called "Magna-Lube" like dirt, chips & swarf will stick like a MAGNET!
See Mr. Pete’s recent video where he talks about the “stripe of shame” you’ll get on your shirt from over oiling your chuck. Turn the chuck on at high speed and walk away for five minutes.
Sorry Keith but with close observation that chuck during reassembly could have been a lot cleaner. I would have stoned the entire chuck before reassembly. Good video on the how a chuck works though.
The scroll was too tight in the chuck body. Maybe just close fit and no problem. But I would print the scroll to see if there is/are high spot(s) that need to be stoned down.
You aren't a fan of Evaporust? I keep 10 gallons in a sealed soaking container for projects like this. I'm not a fan of trying to brush rust out of T-slots and other difficult nooks and crannies. I follow-up with Mirka Mirlon fine and ultrafine scrub pads. I use those pads on a flat hand sander, with WD-40 as lube, on flat surfaces. Never been disappointed with the results, but a whole lot easier, and better results, than wire wheels and hand brushing.
did you see the video on my Wescott Gear scroll 4 jaw scrolling independent? these are so cool. I keep mine roughly centered and scroll it close, and then adjust it exact
Hi Keith i bet that cost big bucks back in the day . Do you think its ok to machine T slots in a 3 or 4 jaw 10'' chuck if there's enough meat to do so . Thanks JM
This type of chuck was pretty common back in the 1800s. By 1900 they began to fall out of favor. They were complex, so they were pretty expensive. You can still buy them, but you don’t really see them much.
So is the idea that you can dial in a workpiece using the independent mechanism, then remove the part using the scroll mechanism, and insert an identical workpiece, without having to do much dialling in?
I am sure you have knowledge of the "World's largest collection of WWII and before aircraft" owned by Mr. Kermit Weeks and has a TH-cam channel, Fantasy of Flight. The number he owns and is in various stages of repair after Hurricane Andrew in the FL past is amazing. He owns many historic aircraft that were flown by famous people or that are part of special aviation history. He is located between Orlando and Tampa.
When using penetrating oil you must give it some time to penetrate. The more time the better. Squirting the oil on a screw and immediately trying to loosen it does nothing but waste oil. The oil is doing nothing yet.
I think that needs to be done once the backplate has been machined to fit the chuck. The new owners could transfer punch the exact location of each hole.
How much chuck could a Keith Rucker chuck if a KR could refurbish chuck. At least 1 from what we have seen today. Another entertaining and informative video Keith. Thanks for sharing!
Not any more. They’re still being made by a few major manufacturers, but Adjust-Tru type chucks are generally superseded them for three jaws and apparently they’re just too expensive.
I have the same chuck but 6" and a three jaw independent universal 6" they are nice BUT the jaws don't stay centered if you change parts unless maybe it was a newer tighter chuck.
The back plate has been turned to fit the chuck but drilling the four mount holes had a hitch. I bought four Allen cap head bolts to mount the back plate but the countersunk holes were too small. So I mounted the chuck on the Bridgeport mill and counter bored to match the bolts. Tomorrow I will transfer punch the hole positions and we will be ready to mount this heavy chuck.Thanks for the overhaul.
WOOHOO for you. I love this piece and am oficialy on the search for one of my own.
As soon as you got the back plate separated, I instantly was reminded of the Capstan from “TALLY HO” ha ha ha.
Great job Keith! That’s wonderful of you to donate those parts to a great cause. Way to go!
Kieth, this video brought back happy memories. I grew up in New Britain, CT and delivered newspapers 7 days a week (1948-1954) on Church St. Walked by the Skinner plant every morning as the workers reported for work. Thanks for an enjoyable video.
I used to run two New Britain screw machines. Ironically, I made parts for Craftsman chucks at the Singer Plant in Pickens S.C. There's nothing left of that place now.
That's interesting because my last name is skinner. Kinda wonder if it's some relation
Keith - I'm 82 Years Old and have been Machining since I was 14 . I have never seen an Indepentant and Scroll 4 Jaw Chuck .
I know it has a multitude of uses. Giving it away makes a powerful statement about Keit Rucker . I tip my hat to you. - Jim
His experiance in all these methods be it mechanical of how things work is amazing. One well schooled fella for sure. He never ceases to amaze me. I would love to see his "things" collection.
@@TomokosEnterprize - Ditto -- Jim
Thanks for telling us your age. 78 here and started early (10) helping grampa at the forge air and anvil. 16 on the machine tools. What do you think is going to happen when all us analog fellas/girls are gone and there is a power outage happens. NO DRO ! OH NO! ! ! I hope they keep notes on how things really work, LOL. Long retired and in a wheelchair from a missing R leg I can still use my old Chez Lathe and A ? Vertical mill, and a home made Radial arm drill (12' x 30 on the mill) My grandad made. It would be in exist of 90+ years now and still as tight as he made it from a big hydraulic cylinder and some odds and ends from a tractor if memory is right from his teachings.. Let's see one of our DRO friends do that eh. I don't know where his lathe (tractor powered) and forge are but born on a trapline 78 years ago has things just up and dissapear. Biggest memory at the forge was making chains. I couldn't get out of Home School and out to the shed to spend the rest of my day with him. Dad was in the city building a new home so I saw little of him.
This is a great video Kieth!!! ... I've never seen a 4 jaw chuck that had BOH Scroll tightening and independant!! .. and I've seen a few odd balls, like a 5 Jaw Chuck
I used one in a MItsubishi Plant back when commuters had CRT Monitors! :) .. the conveyor that heated the tubes had Petagram shafts that we chucked in the 5 Jaw to fit new bearings.
I used to run an old Warner & Swasey lathe that had one of these chucks on it, man that was the most convenient chuck I've ever used. It was always smooth as silk also, and even being a 1940s lathe that chuck still only had a .0005" run out. It was so accurate that I used it to make 36" shafts for airplanes. Too bad I've never been able to find one to fit my Monarch, But I've got a SCA chuck so I can't complain too much.
Haha...I love it, Keith used the grease everybody wanted him to throw away in the hydraulic video. Good on you Kieth, keep using that grease, the old stuff is absolutely the best. It gives the haters something to complain and cringe about. 😂
In your world, just because someone makes a comment are they a "hater"?
Welcome to this episode of "This Old Chuck" :) Nice to see how the insides work on one of these, I've never had one apart, always learning by watching your vids, Thanks!
My first exposure to the inner workings of a scroll chuck. It is really quite simple. In this case it is just huge. Thank you for sharing.🙂🙂
Nice informative video . I'm surprised there aren't jack screws to take the back plate off .
What a great piece for any shop or garage. I have never seen or heard of these chucks before but I think I am in love, LOL. Thanks Kieth. With a bit of love and attention this old beauty is on it's way to stardome eh.
Excellent presentation. Thank you. Enjoyed seeing one of these torn apart and cleaned up.
It would be interesting to see how a scroll like that is manufactured.
th-cam.com/video/qwZBM0cod3s/w-d-xo.html this is the modern way. This is a more mechanical way th-cam.com/video/OqwnOn-XhQI/w-d-xo.html
Exactly my thought, I'd like to see Keith make one. But that's a bit selfish there is no shortage of work for him.
Was thinking the same thing.
With cnc it's fairly easy but on a manual machine that's going to be a whole lot more difficult.
Maybe combining automatic feed on a cross slide while trepanning.
Cutting "threads" on a face should work that way🤔
It looks like there are two threads that operate the jaws, the jaws have independent threads which allows for movement of each jaw, then the scroll moves the threaded parts together. A clever idea
@@chrisoverman7551this user gets it exactly. It’s the first thing that came to mind upon hearing the concept.
It’s how I would do it too. Regular scroll system for the synchronous jaw movement, and on top of that mechanism, independent movement thread for each jaw. I imagine it also has its own dovetail and shim, or some other mechanism for it to slide without excessive play.
Though it would be quite the complex chuck, having 7-8 slots for the chuck key to adjust the jaws.
I’ve seen other systems like the two jaw chuck on vintage tabletop lathes, and a single screw file chuck on die filers with the left hand thread and grub screw trap.. Learn something new, genius and amazing every day…
I would grease the bevel gear components, but only use dry lube of some kind (PTFE, Moly, etc) on the scroll and mating parts. Grease in the scroll tends to capture fine chips and debris. Grease in back, dry lube in front works best
Enjoying the extra vids Keith, thank you.
I have found the best way to restore old machinery is after the parts are degreased, use glass beads in a beadblast cabinet to remove all the rust and other "gunk" the degreaser could not dissolve. The amount of metal remove by glass beads is very minimal and they leave a nice finish, almost glossy if the beads are new.
Quick tip, Craftsman screwdrivers fit a 3/4" sae box wrench at the handle. Its meant for stuff like the slotted screws on the back of that chuck. Give it a whirl some time. It works great! Pretty cool chuck though! I'd love one for my m300 Harrison lathe!
I would have stoned the mating surfaces before I washed it in the parts washer, that there would be no metal chips (though miniscule) in the chuck when you reassembled the chuck.
I don't think you want all the dirt, grease and gunk in your precision ground stones.
I would have waited till after the washing, but definitely used the stones before putting the grease on anything & then I would have at least sprayed the parts that got precision stoned w brake cleaner.
@@lyleturner7593 The places he stoned did not have ant grease on them. The metal removed was minuscule and extremely fine particles. The operative word is minuscule. He didn't hog off a bunch of metal with an angle grinder into the greased parts.
Probably not that big of a deal, but I also winced a little at the stoning during assembly. It's not the metal shavings that matter as much as the abrasive grit that comes off the stones and falls into the mechanism. That grit will cause wear for as long as it's in there. It's a very tiny amount and they aren't high speed parts, so again not terrible, just not best practice.
As a former Air Force Mechanic (RCAF) - it's great to see this go to a good home! I hope they get lots of use from it!
Keith, I really enjoy your chuck restoration videos.
surprised the chuck didn't go into Evapo-Rust.
Same thought here. For some reason it appears he has stopped using the product
Maybe they have cancelled their sponsorship?
JIM 🤔
good product but takes too long to do its thing
It's ok to use as long as you do not need to be buying it all the time for yourself. As a sponsored item where you are being given gallons of it then sure, use it.
I used it to do a corrosion removal on a pukko knife blade. I didn't want to pull the handle apart as it was stacked birch and in great shape so I stood the knife upright in a glass jar and filled it just to the point between the handle and the blade. It removed the corrosion on the blade but badly etched the blade at the solution/air interface. Now i use it if I have to dunk something in to completely soak it but I am careful too because there are some alloy incompatibilities with it as well.
Having watched a few videos on making my own similar solution with EDTA and citric acid I think that will be my route going forward.
I did the EDTA/citruc acid solution too and was very satisfied. I used a plant seed starting heat pad to wrap around the bucket to warm it up and it worked even better!
I use Evaporust in ultrasonics. Use the heater and almost everything just takes 30 minutes. A few, badly rusted objects take another 15 to 30 more. Who knows why he’s not using that. Never go the acid or electrolytic route. They dissolve everything, including the good metal.
Thanks for showing us!
That was an impressive chuck. Whish there would be such ones matching a 4" - 5" lathe.... Combine four jaw with 3 jaw centering....
I worked at a museum for a bit as their mechanic. I was setting up a little machine shop while I was there and the lathe that they let me get out was an old Putnam lathe, it had a 3 jaw that was set up like this. Interesting chuck.
Is grease the best thing to use on a chuck? It would seem over time the grease would accumulate tiny chips and make a grimy mess and possibly cause wear. I always thought that oil was the best.
If you adapter on your impact drill. You can spin the jaws to quickly get everything lubed and bedded. Instead of turning that Chuck key
Thanks Keith. That was very kind to donate the Chuck and backing plate!
Any chance we’ll see them fitting that backer onto the chuck?
About the same chance we will see the Stoker Engine!
That looks like a dual 4 Jaw chuck like you said and a T bolt face plate with medium slots long as well to mount odd things. Might be a combination of several methods at the same time if turning an odd, shaped item.
While I like how you did this rehab on this Chuck. I would have liked to see you dismantle the whole thing and soak it in Evaporust as you could still see some surface rust on the jaw guides and bolt holes but overall good hob
Would it be worth machining a couple small openings between the front and back of the chuck so that a chisel isn't needed to pry them apart in the future? they wouldn't need to be deep and it shouldn't effect the use of the chuck.
Also, why not make a double chuck key for them with the two correct sizes on it for the chuck? Would be a quick simple but potentially interesting project to go with a video like this.
Great gift Keith! Maybe see it in action in the future!
Thanks Keith, you just added another "Must Have" to my list!
Everyone searching Ebay this evening!
You have done a wonderful thing to help with their saving of history. I was wondering if you made up a proper T-Wrench to fit the chuck for them?
I learned something that if you put Rusty parts in apple cider vinegar it will eat the rust.
Youre a BRAVE MAN, putting grease into anything like that! I was always told anything that goes on a Mill or Lathe got OILED because grease attracts chips and swarf worse, and turns into Valve-Grinding Compound!!! Never ever in my life, sir- Hahaha but everybody's got their own thing?
EDIT: cant help but chuckle that your grease container is called "Magna-Lube" like dirt, chips & swarf will stick like a MAGNET!
See Mr. Pete’s recent video where he talks about the “stripe of shame” you’ll get on your shirt from over oiling your chuck. Turn the chuck on at high speed and walk away for five minutes.
Sorry Keith but with close observation that chuck during reassembly could have been a lot cleaner. I would have stoned the entire chuck before reassembly. Good video on the how a chuck works though.
Another lovely video, thanks Keith🙏
Another great video Keith. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Keith!
The scroll was too tight in the chuck body. Maybe just close fit and no problem. But I would print the scroll to see if there is/are high spot(s) that need to be stoned down.
Good on Keith - and a very interesting chuck too.
Why did you do this to me?
Now I have to go and clean those three chucks I have been putting off for ages. 😀😀😀😀😀
Thank you for another Great video. Cheers
Keith, nice job on this one! Very interesting chuck! What grease are you using ?
That is interesting, I did not know there was a 4jaw with a scroll. Thanks, Keith!!!
It certainly is a useful piece of machinery. I imagine it was very expensive back in the day.
Hi Keith! I would sure like to see how the scroll is machined... Have you ever done one? Great work! Ron...
You aren't a fan of Evaporust? I keep 10 gallons in a sealed soaking container for projects like this. I'm not a fan of trying to brush rust out of T-slots and other difficult nooks and crannies. I follow-up with Mirka Mirlon fine and ultrafine scrub pads. I use those pads on a flat hand sander, with WD-40 as lube, on flat surfaces. Never been disappointed with the results, but a whole lot easier, and better results, than wire wheels and hand brushing.
looking for a dot to line the two parts up .... just look for the jackhammer marks Keith ..🤣
Very nice chuck and unique. Nice job.
Thanks for sharing Keith
did you see the video on my Wescott Gear scroll 4 jaw scrolling independent? these are so cool. I keep mine roughly centered and scroll it close, and then adjust it exact
Thanks Keith!
Did you check on the B-17in Marengo,ill.? Just down the road from Union.
Hi Keith i bet that cost big bucks back in the day . Do you think its ok to machine T slots in a 3 or 4 jaw 10'' chuck if there's enough meat to do so . Thanks JM
hey, I want one of these for my 10" Southbend lathe. Did any one make one?
This type of chuck was pretty common back in the 1800s. By 1900 they began to fall out of favor. They were complex, so they were pretty expensive. You can still buy them, but you don’t really see them much.
Thanks Keith
it turned out great! looks amazing.
So is the idea that you can dial in a workpiece using the independent mechanism, then remove the part using the scroll mechanism, and insert an identical workpiece, without having to do much dialling in?
That's a handy chuck. It's pretty much a great daily use chuck like the 3 jaw. But it's better for holding power. Great video, Keith.
I am sure you have knowledge of the "World's largest collection of WWII and before aircraft" owned by Mr. Kermit Weeks and has a TH-cam channel, Fantasy of Flight. The number he owns and is in various stages of repair after Hurricane Andrew in the FL past is amazing. He owns many historic aircraft that were flown by famous people or that are part of special aviation history. He is located between Orlando and Tampa.
where is your evaperrust tank?
Wow, what a cool chuck, would like to have one if for no other reason than its quirkiness.
Happy Monday Georgia! 😊
What are the other 4 slots on the face of the chuck for?
For fixed mounting after removing the jaws.
@@ericpaul4575 Thanks!
When using penetrating oil you must give it some time to penetrate. The more time the better. Squirting the oil on a screw and immediately trying to loosen it does nothing but waste oil. The oil is doing nothing yet.
Myself I would be used way oil instead of Greece but everyone has their choice
Sacrifice an old wood chisle to use to seperate close fitting parts. A cold chisles has too much of an obtuse angle which just butters the edges over!
Airbase Georgia owes K an airplane ride or two.
Hard to beat a ride in the T-6. But that SBD...
Keith, the backplate has 3 holes, and the chuck has 4 holes. Do you need to drill new holes in the backplate to mount it to the chuck?
Yes
I think that needs to be done once the backplate has been machined to fit the chuck. The new owners could transfer punch the exact location of each hole.
Good Morning and thanks for the video.
Thanks Keith. We appreciate what you do.
You are always there to help those who needs somebody like you to make their dreams come true .... Superman in what you do .... ❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉😊😊😊 ....
Fascenating look at the innards...
Keiths magic blue grease.
thank you
I have the same design in a three jaw chuck.
Good morning Keith! A great donation. Thanks for the videos.
What happened your addiction to Evaporust
I had an old southbend lathe and it was used to make acme bolts and it had a four jaw chuck but it was on a scroll . I have never seen one since.
Surprised to see how much rust you left in the jaw slots. Is it because you're giving it away?
Enjoy the videos. That's interesting because my last name is skinner. Wonder if some relation.
How much chuck could a Keith Rucker chuck if a KR could refurbish chuck. At least 1 from what we have seen today. Another entertaining and informative video Keith. Thanks for sharing!
Mounting plate three screws. Chuck four screws.
why does it take two hands to turn a chuck key?????????????????????????????????/
❤️🔥
Great job.
I always wondered how the scroll worked. Great video.
A scroll is a worm gear as reimagined by Salvador Dali.
@@Scodiddly it did look a bit like a melted clock!
might want to change the headline from 4 jaw to 3.
I have the 3 jaw version. Love it.
What is this mysterious substance Oool that you speak of. 😏
Who makes the precision ground flat stones again? I know he's on TH-cam. I need to order some but I cannot remember his name.
Hope I spell correctly. You want Lance Baltzey.
Lance Balthzey, not sure of his YT page though.
Also Titan of Machines has a website and they have some.
Keep in mind that they’re pretty expensive. If you have a high quality diamond flattening plate, you can make your own.
@@eliduttman315 Thank you!
Anatomy of a four jaw a curiosity satisfied
And now it will be making airplanes?
VERY cool!
Love that chuck.
I thought these were common. I watch CuttingEdgeEngineering, and he has two lathes with these on them.
Not any more. They’re still being made by a few major manufacturers, but Adjust-Tru type chucks are generally superseded them for three jaws and apparently they’re just too expensive.
I have the same chuck but 6" and a three jaw independent universal 6" they are nice BUT the jaws don't stay centered if you change parts unless maybe it was a newer tighter chuck.
Such a versatile chuck. I'm sure Airbase Georgia will appreciate it and the hard work you put into cleaning it up. Well done Keith.
Good job
😊😊😊😊
Thank you for sharing.👍