I'm a retired Senior Master BMW tech...Your E-brake vid was quite conclusive, as you covered the 'mystery hookup' of the Bowden cable to expander! Nice clean operation, better if you had applied some lubriplate to the friction area behind shoes on dust plates. I'm sure you have helped many with this tutorial. Thank you.
Hi Mike, I've got an E39 (520i) and I've done the Handbrake adjustment several times (both before and after having replaced the Handbrake cables and shoes). I've followed the BMW manual (as well as the Bentley manual which says the same thing) down to the dot. For some reason, I keep getting the same results: Braking action starts on the second click but no matter how hard I pull, it's never strong enough to actually hold the car by itself on a ramp. The parts are of good quality. The manuals say to tighten the rear adjuster until the wheel can't turn and then back it off 12 clicks, then the rest is done from the front.
11:20 - Thank you for so eloquently explaining how to get that small spring in. Love the idea of installing it FIRST, then wrapping the subassembly around the hub. genius. Good work! Frank
Ummm, Me commenting shows that this is a timeless video. LOL... This is probably the best of the bunch, on parking brakes. One thing I hope everyone does without fail is to use a proper RESPIRATOR, a paper dust mask isn't sufficient when exposing yourself to brake dust and contaminants left behind when changing brakes. Thanks @E39Source for making life simpler...
Just put a wheel bearing into my little bro's E46 323I, had to do some double checking on the parking brake reassembly and your video took care of it for me. Thanks!
Excellent clear voice and good video! An important point I'd summarize for the viewers who want to adjust the brake without pulling the drum out comes around the time code 12:30. To loosen the parking brake, insert a flat-bed driver through one of the lug hole to reach the adjustment screw and pivot the flat-bed tip downwards (move your hand upwards) to move the parking brake adjustment screw one notch loose. To tighten it, pivot the flat-bed tip upwards.
quick tips: if youre doing this, loosen the cables, then adjust at the wheel area, after youre done do the final adjustment at the cable again, this way you will get the max brake
I really enjoy these videos for the BMW cars I have 2- 46 Bmw 328i and an m3 both cars run great because of these good videos that I can go to whenever I need maintenance and can save money by not taking it to the dealer keep up the good work very informative
Bedding procedure: Go 40 km/h, pull the handbrake until you feel it braking the car. Add one more click on the handbrake and keep 40 km/h for another 400 meters. Than release the handbrake and let the brakes cool.
Nice video .....wee bit dissapointed that u never replace doing all this - dust plates That is a pain in the back side In my car those are so rusty and bolts with the spring never hold the hand brake shoe I ended up drilling 5p coin and I bolt it together that way Passed my MOT on this temporary solution just about -16% is bottom line My parking brake was 16 I bought set of dust plates and a hand brake shoe kit Gonna get the new shoes (£25 Bosch )and the adjusting bolt with the part holding cable next week .... And at the summer time ( if we lucky to get any sun at all here in Belfast ) I going to replace the whole thing together on my e46 318ise Great video and of course 👍👍👍 Good luck 😎
Good job bro. thanks for the help. when it comes to reinstalling you can take the adjustment screw side and the first spring. collapse the two pads on the opposite end( just overlapping a little) spring goes in easier.. appreciate your Insight on this project..
Thanks for this video.... I was going to be changing my rear wheel bearings but it turned into... Trailing are front bushes, Wheel bearings, And full brake rebuild including the Parking brakes and cables! Thanks for the pointers....
12:17 "You can do this with your wheel and all your brakes still on the car btw" This changed my life, I've always taken off the whole thing every time I want to adjust it. Damn
I was looking for a refresher on my 95 e36 (after a complete bushing refresh) - almost exactly the same except the cable is attached via a pin so it stays in place. - well done.
good that people like you can be bothered to put the video`s up, i found it more understandable probley as your not an expert and did`nt come out with loads of technical crap a more experianced mecanic would, i had a fair idea of what to do but now after watching this im definitely more confident that i can do the job, so thank you and keep the vids coming....
That was a great video. If you have anything that illustrates replacement of the actual cable that would be great! Only one brake shoes expands when I pull the parking brake handle despite all hardware being new. I am guessing the cable has been stretched and needs to be replaced as well. (It is the only component that has not been replaced so process of elimination dictates the cable is the problem.) Thnx. again!
Pro tip: If you fold the brake shoes up like a taco and insert the spring, you can unfold them and the leverage does all the work. If you're replacing your hub anyhow, you can do it for both springs. Works for taking them off and putting them on.
I’m here for the stupid hook thing that clips on to the cable. Took it off and couldn’t get it back on. This is the only video or resource anywhere that tells you. Thanks!
man you had it easy, in the M3 version of the brake shoe OEM kit the little spring that holds the brake cable side clipper is so SHORT!!! (2/3 of the length vs what you had) took me nearly an hour just to fit back one tiny spring. Had to pull so hard to get it back together, and there is almost no leverage point because the cable clipper need to be in place before the spring is placed back. Rest of it is easy enough. Now I just have to finish the other side....damn. Not sure why they made the M3 kit spring so much shorter, it sure is tight....
I have never had this problem and i work on E46's almost daily, but i have had a few with the rear subframe mounts ripped out of the body, those are good times...
+Nathan's DIY Garage did mine a month ago,,rear subframe reinforcements,,really a expensive jobb hopefully the jobb made from an auto mechanic ( worst ever) i knew more about service than that guy,reason i got to the man was off the price,,paid half but damn expensive either way ( 1000$ ) but i hope i can enjoy my e46 323 convertible..did you sell yours??
+Nathan's DIY Garage i have handbrake probs,,one side brakes better then the other side...so this is the culprit,,i trued to adjust from inside,under the handbrake lever,but to no use,,now i know how to propperly adjust it..next is turbo or engine change
I still have my 323i right now i need to get the interior done and put some miles on it since i just did the head gasket and time certs, luckily the subframe mounts are good on this car, it has 170k miles , i will be hoping to get $3000 out of it since its overall a nice car and it has the 5 speed manual, but i havent looked at the market lately so we will see, also like you said most most BMW shops dont know much they are shifting to more just switching engines and no diagnostics it seems.
nice camera work , just doing mine and the front rotor retaining screws had to be drilled out but the back came off OK .terrible design for a parking brake , they always rust out & fall apart ., I even snapped one of the caliper bracket retaining screws , what a pain .
Make sure the dust shields aren't rotted because the quarter-turn spring pins can fall out... one of mine did, and the racket was absolutely apocalyptic - I honestly thought that my exhaust was dragging on the ground.
YOU could just remove the bracket with the rotor still attached and still able to grease your rotor pins, it saves some time, and makes it easier to hang the rotor.
nicely explained tutorial by the way. I have done these shoes many times and totally agree about the poor design. for a system that should only really be used when the car is stationary it amazes me how these brakes can become in such poor condition so quickly. most cars now incorporate the parking brake into the caliper which is better but still has room for improvement. the occasional top end vehicle uses a seperate caliper purely as a parking brake (a bit excessive in my eyes) but by far the worst modern design is the use of electronic motors for parking brakes. the french love this idea, us mechanics deffinately don't! And just to ruin our lives that little bit more certain models are now demanding diagnostic equipment in order to "wind back" these electronic calipers just to fit new brake pads.
If you want to bed in the new handbrake shoes, lift the handbrake while driving slowly for about 10 seconds, and then allow to cool off for two minutes. The main risk is doing it for too long, and causing the shoes to overheat.
+alexzracer2008 The 330xi is my "beater" that is on a fairly tight budget. I only need a winter weather car for one more year before I move to San Diego where I can enjoy my M5 daily!
The E-brake on E39's suck you can't do a handbrake turn. Only time the E-brake works is when the road is very slick. They might help shorten stopping distance if you are braking hard from high speeds in a straight line leveled surface I assume just don't expect it to stop the car.
My car stood still the whole winter, and the tires rolls partially some inches but suddenly haults. I can rock back and forth and have some rolling wiggle room, but the wheels won't roll all the way around. Isn't this something else than parking break? It seems locked.
It sounds like the parking brake to me. Raise and lower the lever in the car several times. If that doesn't do it, you may need to remove the rear wheel and hit those rotors with a mallet to get the shoes to break free.
Currently struggling with my e39 handbrake. New shoes and springs on both sides but the left side cable from cabin adjusted to the max and basically 4-7clicks does nothing and locks it up pretty good at 8+ clicks. Right side is tight on 5+ clicks already. Pretty sure my cable is stretched and needs replacing but not 100% sure. You got any tips or tricks for making sure my cable is bad? Or how to change it easiest way. I think i have to remove the exhaust to change em and since all i got is one jack i dont really want to. Would be easy if i had a lift
The brake should first be adjusted at the wheel with the screw adjuster as shown in this video, and then fine tuned and evened up with the cables at the handle.
@@E39Source i did that, exactly AS the manual says, adjust till wheel no longer turns, 12 notches back and etc. When i went to adjust at cables then left one Is longer, like its at max and right is shorter, my mind tells me that the cable is stretched
It is possible that it has stretched. It's also possible that the cable is not fully seated into the adjuster mechanism or the hooks that guide it under the chassis. To measure the cable for stretch, you'd need to remove it and lay it out flat. Exhaust removal would be required for replacement.
@@E39Source Thanks. I will try to check my hand brake pads condition without removing the disc. My car failed MOT due to uneven hand brake, and the shop quoted me to replace the handbrake pads.
I replace the spring kit and the pads but i reused my old rotor and that atachment on the cablee and i cant adjust the handbrake normal it when i do close to normal 10 clicks it sticks and brakes the whole time alone when i do 20 its too far away and wont hold do i need to resurface my inside part of the disc or what to do ?
It sounds like you just need to adjust the cable at the rear wheels. There is an adjustment wheel that can be opened or closed to bring the shoes closer to the rotor surface. 5-7 clicks should have the car held firmly on any incline.
ho do u fine tune the cables? i've replaced all of the pads, 1 cable and even 'tuned' everything in place, but it still rolls down even from a fuking 0.00000000001% "hill" like there is no pads at all or smth.... P.S. - u installed both of the adjustment wheels exactly the opposite way that it was before...
+2012isRonPaul By fine tune the cables I probably meant inside the car, under the boot around parking brake handle. With the rotor off, have somebody pull the brake and make sure it's actually moving the pads.
It's a pain. The spring with more coils goes on the bottom (at the adjuster). I use a long 90 degree pick to pull the spring and then have somebody push it into the brake shoe with a screwdriver.
@@E39Source I've just been doing mine now, hence the question. Got it on using a long hex wrench, using the hub as a surface to lever it against. Took a while, but it's done.
The brake shoes in that type of handbrake assembly should never wear out !!! The brake should be applied when the car is stationary therefore no wear !!, inyour video the car must have had some really wet conditions ??maybe the handbrake was not adjusted correctly causing premature wear and failure ??.
My Bowden cable is too short and the expander body doesn't fully "close" thus making my pads touch the rotor even when the controlling screw (the one you can adjust with a screwdriver) is adjusted for minimum expansion. I tried to adjust the cable length from underneath the hand brake handle inside the car using the little screw but the screw is almost at the end of the little pillar it's mounted on. It's if the cable is too short? On the other side of the car I was able to set the hand brake without any problems. Can someone help?
If it's fully loosened in the car and at the rear brakes, I don't know what could be wrong. The cable should have an extra few inches of length in it for adjusting.
***** I've loosened it fully in the car but it's still not long enough, is there any other way to adjust the length? It doesn't seem to be stuck because I was able to win half a centimeter when adjusting it from underneath the hand brake handle (it was already on almost the loosest setting). Also, applying the hand brake does make the little head go further in. I'm beginning to think that the previous owner has cut the cable short for some reason and mounted a new head. From what I've read, replacing this cable is a pain in the ass.
Just the sheer amount of views on this video shows how shitty this system is. I have fixed the handbrake system 3 times in the last 5 years on my E46. It's a pain in the ass.
He calls out the part numbers and socket sizes... This guy is good.
I'm a retired Senior Master BMW tech...Your E-brake vid was quite conclusive, as you covered the 'mystery hookup' of the Bowden cable to expander! Nice clean operation, better if you had applied some lubriplate to the friction area behind shoes on dust plates. I'm sure you have helped many with this tutorial. Thank you.
@@swar2000gmail no
Hi Mike, I've got an E39 (520i) and I've done the Handbrake adjustment several times (both before and after having replaced the Handbrake cables and shoes). I've followed the BMW manual (as well as the Bentley manual which says the same thing) down to the dot. For some reason, I keep getting the same results: Braking action starts on the second click but no matter how hard I pull, it's never strong enough to actually hold the car by itself on a ramp. The parts are of good quality. The manuals say to tighten the rear adjuster until the wheel can't turn and then back it off 12 clicks, then the rest is done from the front.
11:20 - Thank you for so eloquently explaining how to get that small spring in. Love the idea of installing it FIRST, then wrapping the subassembly around the hub. genius. Good work!
Frank
Ummm, Me commenting shows that this is a timeless video. LOL... This is probably the best of the bunch, on parking brakes. One thing I hope everyone does without fail is to use a proper RESPIRATOR, a paper dust mask isn't sufficient when exposing yourself to brake dust and contaminants left behind when changing brakes.
Thanks @E39Source for making life simpler...
THANK YOU again RYAN!!! Man; YOU have done QUITE a bit for the E39 Community!!!! I am quite appreciative!!
Thank you!!
Just put a wheel bearing into my little bro's E46 323I, had to do some double checking on the parking brake reassembly and your video took care of it for me. Thanks!
Excellent clear voice and good video! An important point I'd summarize for the viewers who want to adjust the brake without pulling the drum out comes around the time code 12:30. To loosen the parking brake, insert a flat-bed driver through one of the lug hole to reach the adjustment screw and pivot the flat-bed tip downwards (move your hand upwards) to move the parking brake adjustment screw one notch loose. To tighten it, pivot the flat-bed tip upwards.
Thank you very much for this video, this weekend it is discs pads all around and handbrake rebuild.
You know what you talking about, I like that you humble. Thank you!
quick tips: if youre doing this, loosen the cables, then adjust at the wheel area, after youre done do the final adjustment at the cable again, this way you will get the max brake
I really enjoy these videos for the BMW cars I have 2- 46 Bmw 328i and an m3 both cars run great because of these good videos that I can go to whenever I need maintenance and can save money by not taking it to the dealer keep up the good work very informative
Really really well produced vid. Congrats. I thank you for your work.
Bedding procedure: Go 40 km/h, pull the handbrake until you feel it braking the car. Add one more click on the handbrake and keep 40 km/h for another 400 meters. Than release the handbrake and let the brakes cool.
well done tutorial; good teacher, good narration, good camera work. nice job. thanks
Nice video .....wee bit dissapointed that u never replace doing all this - dust plates
That is a pain in the back side
In my car those are so rusty and bolts with the spring never hold the hand brake shoe
I ended up drilling 5p coin and I bolt it together that way
Passed my MOT on this temporary solution just about -16% is bottom line
My parking brake was 16
I bought set of dust plates and a hand brake shoe kit
Gonna get the new shoes (£25 Bosch )and the adjusting bolt with the part holding cable next week ....
And at the summer time ( if we lucky to get any sun at all here in Belfast ) I going to replace the whole thing together on my e46 318ise
Great video and of course 👍👍👍
Good luck 😎
Although you made this video a long time ago, Thank you for the detailed explanations! I used it to replace my Parking brakes and Rotors on my e46!
Good job bro. thanks for the help. when it comes to reinstalling you can take the adjustment screw side and the first spring. collapse the two pads on the opposite end( just overlapping a little) spring goes in easier..
appreciate your Insight on this project..
Thanks for this video....
I was going to be changing my rear wheel bearings but it turned into...
Trailing are front bushes,
Wheel bearings,
And full brake rebuild including the Parking brakes and cables!
Thanks for the pointers....
12:17 "You can do this with your wheel and all your brakes still on the car btw" This changed my life, I've always taken off the whole thing every time I want to adjust it. Damn
I was about to do the same xD thank god I saw this first
Looks fairly easy. Just time consuming. Thanks for the great info.
Thanks guys! I had lot of help from your video! Especially where to start setting the shoes !
Did my parking brakes with help from this video. Thanks !
I was looking for a refresher on my 95 e36 (after a complete bushing refresh) - almost exactly the same except the cable is attached via a pin so it stays in place. - well done.
good that people like you can be bothered to put the video`s up, i found it more understandable probley as your not an expert and did`nt come out with loads of technical crap a more experianced mecanic would, i had a fair idea of what to do but now after watching this im definitely more confident that i can do the job, so thank you and keep the vids coming....
Thanks a lot for taking the time to do this. I appreciate it.
That was a great video. If you have anything that illustrates replacement of the actual cable that would be great! Only one brake shoes expands when I pull the parking brake handle despite all hardware being new. I am guessing the cable has been stretched and needs to be replaced as well. (It is the only component that has not been replaced so process of elimination dictates the cable is the problem.) Thnx. again!
Pro tip: If you fold the brake shoes up like a taco and insert the spring, you can unfold them and the leverage does all the work. If you're replacing your hub anyhow, you can do it for both springs. Works for taking them off and putting them on.
great tip :)
Mmmmm Taaaaaaco’s
Great vid, helped significantly with my parking brake rebuild ...
Also, a small note on the brake shoes. The OEM is definitely thicker than aftermarket replacements so DIYers, please take heed.
Thanks so much for this. Everything was perfectly explained. Just did mine today. Far easier than I expected. Cheers
I’m here for the stupid hook thing that clips on to the cable. Took it off and couldn’t get it back on. This is the only video or resource anywhere that tells you. Thanks!
great DIY..great detail and easy to follow...thanks
Awesome video and timing. I'm about to do this on my 323ci.
I'm doing my E39 which is slightly different - adjuster is at 6 o'clock (difficult to see) but with many common parts.
Great video. I am far more confident to take mine apart now. Thanks
Make sure your feet are bare to do this and any job in the garage.
No Name haha
1:19 for an explanation
I would feel so naked and vulnerable...
man you had it easy, in the M3 version of the brake shoe OEM kit the little spring that holds the brake cable side clipper is so SHORT!!! (2/3 of the length vs what you had) took me nearly an hour just to fit back one tiny spring. Had to pull so hard to get it back together, and there is almost no leverage point because the cable clipper need to be in place before the spring is placed back. Rest of it is easy enough. Now I just have to finish the other side....damn. Not sure why they made the M3 kit spring so much shorter, it sure is tight....
I have never had this problem and i work on E46's almost daily, but i have had a few with the rear subframe mounts ripped out of the body, those are good times...
+Nathan's DIY Garage did mine a month ago,,rear subframe reinforcements,,really a expensive jobb hopefully the jobb made from an auto mechanic ( worst ever) i knew more about service than that guy,reason i got to the man was off the price,,paid half but damn expensive either way ( 1000$ ) but i hope i can enjoy my e46 323 convertible..did you sell yours??
+Nathan's DIY Garage i have handbrake probs,,one side brakes better then the other side...so this is the culprit,,i trued to adjust from inside,under the handbrake lever,but to no use,,now i know how to propperly adjust it..next is turbo or engine change
I still have my 323i right now i need to get the interior done and put some miles on it since i just did the head gasket and time certs, luckily the subframe mounts are good on this car, it has 170k miles , i will be hoping to get $3000 out of it since its overall a nice car and it has the 5 speed manual, but i havent looked at the market lately so we will see, also like you said most most BMW shops dont know much they are shifting to more just switching engines and no diagnostics it seems.
Both my e46 and e39 parking brake is useless. E30 was ok but not brilliant.
nice camera work , just doing mine and the front rotor retaining screws had to be drilled out but the back came off OK .terrible design for a parking brake , they always rust out & fall apart ., I even snapped one of the caliper bracket retaining screws , what a pain .
Very well done, thank you for the thorough explanation!
I taught it was pretty complicated, but it is okee doable! Good movie!
Make sure the dust shields aren't rotted because the quarter-turn spring pins can fall out... one of mine did, and the racket was absolutely apocalyptic - I honestly thought that my exhaust was dragging on the ground.
fantastic well explained video .
Great video ! And .... I like the Xi 4 Snow License Plate :)
YOU could just remove the bracket with the rotor still attached and still able to grease your rotor pins, it saves some time, and makes it easier to hang the rotor.
The BMW E90 is also exactly like this.
I'm guessing E36 is the same... i got something rattling like crazy on the rear of the parking brake so gonna have to check it soon.
Loved it - made me smile, great humour!
nicely explained tutorial by the way. I have done these shoes many times and totally agree about the poor design.
for a system that should only really be used when the car is stationary it amazes me how these brakes can become in such poor condition so quickly.
most cars now incorporate the parking brake into the caliper which is better but still has room for improvement.
the occasional top end vehicle uses a seperate caliper purely as a parking brake (a bit excessive in my eyes) but by far the worst modern design is the use of electronic motors for parking brakes. the french love this idea, us mechanics deffinately don't!
And just to ruin our lives that little bit more certain models are now demanding diagnostic equipment in order to "wind back" these electronic calipers just to fit new brake pads.
Great video. thank you very much. Gotta do my 99 323i
I see that you put the adjustment screw on opposite direction on the passenger side from your stock picture. Does it matter?
It was a good video and informative..good camera work,maybe a tad more light boys,,but great vid..well done..
Good video man!
Very interesting! I learned a lot from this video!
Great video, where do you live you have a lot if rust under your car.
+Kayvan Komarizadeh Ohio
If you want to bed in the new handbrake shoes, lift the handbrake while driving slowly for about 10 seconds, and then allow to cool off for two minutes. The main risk is doing it for too long, and causing the shoes to overheat.
You might have to replace the brake rotors too. You see, your current rotors have a high wear from the inside where the brake shoes make contact.
that's just how they're shaped.
nice video. A lot of rust on the brakes. Why not buy a newer beamer? Looks like you have the money to buy one e39source.
+alexzracer2008 The 330xi is my "beater" that is on a fairly tight budget. I only need a winter weather car for one more year before I move to San Diego where I can enjoy my M5 daily!
The E-brake on E39's suck you can't do a handbrake turn. Only time the E-brake works is when the road is very slick. They might help shorten stopping distance if you are braking hard from high speeds in a straight line leveled surface I assume just don't expect it to stop the car.
BMWs don't have emergency brakes, they're "parking" brakes. Designed to hold the weight of the car on hills without relying on the transmission.
***** some call it tomato , others call it red and soft ., its still good on burgers
The e38 is slightly different; being electronically controlled. But some components are the same
XI 4 SNOW, nice plate
My car stood still the whole winter, and the tires rolls partially some inches but suddenly haults. I can rock back and forth and have some rolling wiggle room, but the wheels won't roll all the way around. Isn't this something else than parking break? It seems locked.
It sounds like the parking brake to me. Raise and lower the lever in the car several times. If that doesn't do it, you may need to remove the rear wheel and hit those rotors with a mallet to get the shoes to break free.
Currently struggling with my e39 handbrake. New shoes and springs on both sides but the left side cable from cabin adjusted to the max and basically 4-7clicks does nothing and locks it up pretty good at 8+ clicks.
Right side is tight on 5+ clicks already.
Pretty sure my cable is stretched and needs replacing but not 100% sure.
You got any tips or tricks for making sure my cable is bad? Or how to change it easiest way.
I think i have to remove the exhaust to change em and since all i got is one jack i dont really want to. Would be easy if i had a lift
The brake should first be adjusted at the wheel with the screw adjuster as shown in this video, and then fine tuned and evened up with the cables at the handle.
@@E39Source i did that, exactly AS the manual says, adjust till wheel no longer turns, 12 notches back and etc. When i went to adjust at cables then left one Is longer, like its at max and right is shorter, my mind tells me that the cable is stretched
It is possible that it has stretched. It's also possible that the cable is not fully seated into the adjuster mechanism or the hooks that guide it under the chassis. To measure the cable for stretch, you'd need to remove it and lay it out flat. Exhaust removal would be required for replacement.
I don't have the handle, but the dashboard lever. I'm guessing no adjustment is needed for this part then. Just the shoes in the back.
E38 7-series? I have no experience with that part, but I would imagine that all of your adjustment is done at the rear wheels.
Excellent 👍
Great video. Thanks
Great video.
Why do you say that they are completely destroyed? The springs don't stretch or something got broken or something not related.
I meant the shoes, pad material had detonated, worn, and everything was very rusty.
@@E39Source Thanks. I will try to check my hand brake pads condition without removing the disc. My car failed MOT due to uneven hand brake, and the shop quoted me to replace the handbrake pads.
@@arpcpro Brake rotor removal will be required to inspect the parking brake shoes.
Great job!
Thank u !
great video
Very informative, and very good explained. Thanks a lot for making this video, i still do not want to do the job though :p
thanks dude, very informative.
Great jobs
where is a good place to order all of these parts in the eu?
I replace the spring kit and the pads but i reused my old rotor and that atachment on the cablee and i cant adjust the handbrake normal it when i do close to normal 10 clicks it sticks and brakes the whole time alone when i do 20 its too far away and wont hold do i need to resurface my inside part of the disc or what to do ?
It sounds like you just need to adjust the cable at the rear wheels. There is an adjustment wheel that can be opened or closed to bring the shoes closer to the rotor surface. 5-7 clicks should have the car held firmly on any incline.
Great vid!
Thanx, awesome..Perfect !!
thank you
ho do u fine tune the cables? i've replaced all of the pads, 1 cable and even 'tuned' everything in place, but it still rolls down even from a fuking 0.00000000001% "hill" like there is no pads at all or smth....
P.S. - u installed both of the adjustment wheels exactly the opposite way that it was before...
+2012isRonPaul By fine tune the cables I probably meant inside the car, under the boot around parking brake handle. With the rotor off, have somebody pull the brake and make sure it's actually moving the pads.
Thank you!
Thanks for this video
no matter how many times I adjust mine, they keep auto tightening to the point I can't drive and have to adjust them. now sure wh
How did you get the big spring in that goes on the opposite side to the adjuster?
It's a pain. The spring with more coils goes on the bottom (at the adjuster). I use a long 90 degree pick to pull the spring and then have somebody push it into the brake shoe with a screwdriver.
@@E39Source I've just been doing mine now, hence the question. Got it on using a long hex wrench, using the hub as a surface to lever it against. Took a while, but it's done.
Do all these parts come with the rebuild kit (PN 34212213311)?
***** Yes, thats like the perfect kit!
Thanks
wait!!!! was that Jeff goldblums voice
What shift knob do you have?
thanks video was helpful
thanks for the handy tip's
The brake shoes in that type of handbrake assembly should never wear out !!! The brake should be applied when the car is stationary therefore no wear !!, inyour video the car must have had some really wet conditions ??maybe the handbrake was not adjusted correctly causing premature wear and failure ??.
The car has always been in Ohio, so long winters, tons of snow and salt, rain, etc wears them out or deteriorates them beyond use.
Not if your doing some mad skids.
My Bowden cable is too short and the expander body doesn't fully "close" thus making my pads touch the rotor even when the controlling screw (the one you can adjust with a screwdriver) is adjusted for minimum expansion. I tried to adjust the cable length from underneath the hand brake handle inside the car using the little screw but the screw is almost at the end of the little pillar it's mounted on. It's if the cable is too short? On the other side of the car I was able to set the hand brake without any problems. Can someone help?
If it's fully loosened in the car and at the rear brakes, I don't know what could be wrong. The cable should have an extra few inches of length in it for adjusting.
***** I've loosened it fully in the car but it's still not long enough, is there any other way to adjust the length? It doesn't seem to be stuck because I was able to win half a centimeter when adjusting it from underneath the hand brake handle (it was already on almost the loosest setting). Also, applying the hand brake does make the little head go further in. I'm beginning to think that the previous owner has cut the cable short for some reason and mounted a new head. From what I've read, replacing this cable is a pain in the ass.
I don't know of any other way to adjust it. You will likely need to replace the cable, which you're right, is a pain in the ass. Good luck!
***** Thanks and thank you for your help :)
I
Your the man!
do u normally work barefoot?
No
MERCI
How many miles this car crossed? Thank's
228,000 miles.
E39Source: Awesome!
HELP does anyone know how to knock off the rear brake sensors in 520i e39. i cant do any burnouts . the just stalls when i touch the breaks
Don't do burnouts. Tires are expensive. Also, the 520i likely doesn't have the power to do them anyhow.
Thank you!!!!
good enjoyable vid
Just the sheer amount of views on this video shows how shitty this system is. I have fixed the handbrake system 3 times in the last 5 years on my E46. It's a pain in the ass.