PSA: for those concerned about the lack of quality in screen size choice… the top of the screen tucks up into the Upper Instrument Panel - this is not a stand alone unit.
@@aHornetsNest I can relate 😁 Got my hands on an old ViperPit for dead cheap. Just sitting in it is satisfying af. Will be a lot of work to get everything functional though. Winter may come 😁🤓
Yeah there is :) I’m going to be adding my AMPCD + finger guard file to the Mod folder in the Dev branch today 🤙🏻 that way it’s there for the next release or when people download it specifically 🫡
@ right on; I’m fairly new to 3d printing I was unfamiliar with that brand thank you for telling me what it is, sir. Just picked up the X1C and am looking forward to putting it to work and I follow your path.
Loving your series, thank you for all the time you have invested into this project. I have a question if you or anyone reading knows the answer. I am planning to start my own build and looking at what equipment to buy. I am happy to spend a bit of money on investing into a 3d printer but the laser I would need for cutting acrylic is outside of my budget. I know you have done the episodes showing how to build a budget panel using 3d printed panels and stickers for the face. I dont really like the idea of using stickers andn wondered if it feasible to have 3d printed plates, paint them and then use a cheaper diode laser to etch in the lettering/graphics?
Hey thank you for the comment!! And being part of the journey 🤙🏻 you can definitely try getting a cheaper diode laser and then doing multiple passes to cut through the acrylic I have also seen others use a Bambu 3D printer with a 0.2mm nozzle print with multiple colours They print black and white and it looks reasonable I’ve never tried engraving 3D printed parts before other than resin
Imperial is dead simple for those of us that are used to it. Like anything else, if it's what you know, then it's no prob. Btw, your tutorials are the best, hands down. Great work!
@@lebojay Just think of it as continually cutting something in half, 1/2 to 1/4 to 1/8 to 1/16 to 1/32 to 1/64, etc. Do my metric friends cut their pizzas into 1/10s?
Thanks mate!!! My goal by the end of this is to become fluent in both haha What gets me is when it’s like “3/8” and I’m there trying to working what’s that bigger or smaller than 😂😂 thanks for your support to the channel 🤙🏻🤙🏻
How can I drawing a pcb to have that specific tactile switch with the green led inside? I watched your pcb design tutorial (great tutorial by the way), but it doesn’t really go into how to add specific buttons onto the pcb.
Hey! So you would go to a website like mouser.com - and you would download the specific files for the device and save it to the libraries Or you can grab the data sheet and draw up your own foot print / symbols I can look at making a video for it 🤙🏻🤙🏻
I saw you diluted your tamiya paints with thinning solution, also the clear coat. Do you dilute the SMS, Mr Color and Mr Surfacer paints too or just use them from the bottles?
I dilute Tamiya with either MrColour Levelling thinner or Tamiya X-20A thinner I dilute Mr Colour and Mr Surfacer with with Mr Colour Levelling thinner SMS paint is able to spray straight from the bottle 🤙🏻
Hey thanks for the model! Definitely if I was going to have it as a stand alone model… but check out the episode that just got released and you’ll see how it tucks away! 🫡🫡
I agree. A real pity Scott didn't got a 4:3 display. 🙈 I looks SO BAD with that stickning out like that, and It's very exposed to get hurt there. A great job otherwize! 🤓👏🏼
@@technomattanbadbollisch1113 haha it’s hidden inside the console… go check out the latest post on insta/facebook or TH-cam or wait till next episode Do people really think AHN would settle for displays that stick out 😂
Very nice. My thoughts, break the button PCB into 4 parts it will be cheaper, they have to mill out the hole in the middle, join them to a common controller chain with 5 wire 2mm JST connectors. if you are using something like a teensy to control multiple keypad panels use a TCA8418 for the buttons it's an I2C GPIO keyboard encoder drives 80 buttons and costs the same as the shitty I2C gpio extenders but does configurable KB scan itself and just sends you a number, also comes with a 10 slot fifo so you can be slow.
Thanks mate :) Yeah valid point, but I’d rather pay for having a single unit PCB Yeah the IO expanders on the board do just fine 🤙🏻 but it is one of those hobbies where you can do it 50 different ways
Another great video, can a ask how the rocker switches work for gain, contrast etc.. Are they a specific type of switch? Or just 2 normal momentary switches side by side?
Hey it definitely does exist You’ll probs pay 4 times as much The top of the screen tucks away behind the upper instrument panel 🤙🏻🤙🏻 stay tuned for next episode I’ll be painting the cockpit grey and I’ll install the AMPCD and show you how it works Yeah I definitely wouldn’t leave it like this as a stand alone module 😂
Winwing probably scales their MFD/DDI to match up with screens are readily available on the market. Open Hornet is a 1:1 replica sized to the actual Hornet. That means stepping away from having a screen that matches perfectly. Both ways of making these has a flaw. You either have a compromise with not being actual size or you have a screen that might be off sized but not noticeable due to viewing angle.
I have a question. I am using Condor 3 gliding simulator. It includes a flight computer, LX NAV 9070. I do not know if this program can have the flight computer separated from the main screen as you have done with the other simulator, but if id can be I am not sure if it uses DCS Bios or what. Let me know if you can find out.
So cool to watch, I am DIY sim builder too, my biggest problem so far is that my resin buttons painted white are always "yellowish" when I backlight them. When I don't paint them with white - left just white resin it is much better, not sure were is the problem - the wait paint isn't true white?
@@aHornetsNest LEDs are strong white, resin Anycubic ECO-plat based white. When I light up the resin only it makes nice white text and icons, but when I add 1or2 layers of white during painting and black on top it makes the text yellowish while backlight. I have to test those tamyia white paints.
Ummm yeah it could be just blocking some of the light, and letting through the yellower frequencies Send me a pic on Instagram or Facebook if you want I use SMS insignia white … it’s quite good And it’ll generally only a light layer of it… that way it backlights correctly and doesn’t block too much
You can :) you’d just need to modify some of the OH files for them to fit But there are community members that have done that and are happy to share the files 🤙🏻
Same question. But after reading this reply is it the wood parts of the frame/skeleton that needs to be modified? Please and thank you for your time, BTW, youre awesome! @aHornetsNest
@ thanks mate!!! Yeah the frame wooden panel would need to be adjusted as well… but I believe just the mounting holes Ulukaii has a build log on the OH discord doing a metric WinWing main instrument panel - I think his is pretty cool
Thank you. I'm a machinist during the day. Learning arduino feels like when I learned G code, lol. But altering model files seems alot easier to me. @@aHornetsNest
PSA: for those concerned about the lack of quality in screen size choice… the top of the screen tucks up into the Upper Instrument Panel - this is not a stand alone unit.
Cracking video as always mate. I'm looking forward to following in your footsteps!
Thanks mate!!! Appreciate it 🙌🏻🙌🏻 can’t wait for our sims to be up and running and we go for a fly
Love the short nerding out interludes :D
@@BekoPharm hahaha 😂😂
@@aHornetsNest I can relate 😁 Got my hands on an old ViperPit for dead cheap. Just sitting in it is satisfying af. Will be a lot of work to get everything functional though. Winter may come 😁🤓
That’s going to look awesome when it’s up and running
Well done scott - leading the way as usual!
Thanks mate 🙌🏻🙌🏻 I appreciate it 🤙🏻
That is incredible. Now we need someone to figure out how to adapt it for use in a homebuilt experimental aircraft.
Haha yeah that would be cool! Pop a flir on the exp. Aircraft
Dude… I hate you…. Now I gotta build one. You’re killing me. 😅 great build guide. Definitely subbing.
Haha 😂😂 my job here is done 😂 thanks mate!
Good job,it’s a pleasure to see you back
Thank you!!
@@aHornetsNest one day we will see your cockpit entiraly?
Yeah mate! I’m hoping for next episode to be painting it internally grey
And then next will be installing the avionics
Howdy! Just finished my right side console, perfect timing lol!
Hey! Soo good! Send me a pic on insta or fb 🤙🏻🤙🏻
@@aHornetsNest can I email instead?
Hey you can send to ahornetsnest@gmail.com
@@aHornetsNest alright, will do :)
🫡
There is a DDI .3mf file unified with the fingerguards in the release/OHM_Modifications folder.
Yeah there is :) I’m going to be adding my AMPCD + finger guard file to the Mod folder in the Dev branch today 🤙🏻 that way it’s there for the next release or when people download it specifically 🫡
Really good tutorial, Thank you.
Thank you very much!
This is so cool! Wish I could do it like you do
Thanks mate!!! Take it one step at a time… my first attempts at cockpit building definitely didn’t look like this
What was the machine at the 10:30 mark please? Awesome videos! I’m just starting and your work is like having the master class
Thanks mate!!! It’s my Elegoo Saturn 2 resin 3D printer
@ right on; I’m fairly new to 3d printing I was unfamiliar with that brand thank you for telling me what it is, sir.
Just picked up the X1C and am looking forward to putting it to work and I follow your path.
Oh nice one!!! A XIC is nice 🤙🏻🤙🏻 enjoy the build process 🫡
Bro. Thats amazing ! Great work !!
If you ever build Modules for Star Citizen, let me know ;)
Thanks!! Will do 🤙🏻 I’ve never played it but it looks like an awesome game
Loving your series, thank you for all the time you have invested into this project. I have a question if you or anyone reading knows the answer. I am planning to start my own build and looking at what equipment to buy. I am happy to spend a bit of money on investing into a 3d printer but the laser I would need for cutting acrylic is outside of my budget. I know you have done the episodes showing how to build a budget panel using 3d printed panels and stickers for the face. I dont really like the idea of using stickers andn wondered if it feasible to have 3d printed plates, paint them and then use a cheaper diode laser to etch in the lettering/graphics?
Hey thank you for the comment!! And being part of the journey 🤙🏻 you can definitely try getting a cheaper diode laser and then doing multiple passes to cut through the acrylic
I have also seen others use a Bambu 3D printer with a 0.2mm nozzle print with multiple colours
They print black and white and it looks reasonable
I’ve never tried engraving 3D printed parts before other than resin
When I send the svg files to the cnc company to cut wood, do i need to specify anything?
Nah they should know what to do with it 🤙🏻
Imperial is dead simple for those of us that are used to it. Like anything else, if it's what you know, then it's no prob. Btw, your tutorials are the best, hands down. Great work!
But the fractions! 🤯
@@lebojay Just think of it as continually cutting something in half, 1/2 to 1/4 to 1/8 to 1/16 to 1/32 to 1/64, etc. Do my metric friends cut their pizzas into 1/10s?
Thanks mate!!! My goal by the end of this is to become fluent in both haha
What gets me is when it’s like “3/8” and I’m there trying to working what’s that bigger or smaller than 😂😂 thanks for your support to the channel 🤙🏻🤙🏻
😂😂 that is true
😂
How can I drawing a pcb to have that specific tactile switch with the green led inside? I watched your pcb design tutorial (great tutorial by the way), but it doesn’t really go into how to add specific buttons onto the pcb.
Hey! So you would go to a website like mouser.com - and you would download the specific files for the device and save it to the libraries
Or you can grab the data sheet and draw up your own foot print / symbols
I can look at making a video for it 🤙🏻🤙🏻
I saw you diluted your tamiya paints with thinning solution, also the clear coat. Do you dilute the SMS, Mr Color and Mr Surfacer paints too or just use them from the bottles?
I dilute Tamiya with either MrColour Levelling thinner or Tamiya X-20A thinner
I dilute Mr Colour and Mr Surfacer with with Mr Colour Levelling thinner
SMS paint is able to spray straight from the bottle 🤙🏻
Are you planning a cockpit with an open/closing canopy ?
That would be cool! But no not at this stage
I’d need some serious aircon for that 🤙🏻🤙🏻
Very good, although I would change the monitor for a 480 x 480 px 4" IPS, the model is Focus LDC E40RD-FS1000-N.
Hey thanks for the model! Definitely if I was going to have it as a stand alone model… but check out the episode that just got released and you’ll see how it tucks away! 🫡🫡
Fantastic Job! A pity that there's no LCD 4:3 displays anymore and you need to left part of display outside the module.
Hey yeah! But it’s all good 😁 it slots up into the UIP of Hornet and hides away so no one will see that section 🫡🫡
I agree.
A real pity Scott didn't got a 4:3 display. 🙈
I looks SO BAD with that stickning out like that, and It's very exposed to get hurt there.
A great job otherwize! 🤓👏🏼
@@technomattanbadbollisch1113 haha it’s hidden inside the console… go check out the latest post on insta/facebook or TH-cam or wait till next episode
Do people really think AHN would settle for displays that stick out 😂
Doesn't matter that it's hidden, it's a waste of display...... and wasted materials is added expense.
@sprhowie 😂😂😂 I’d like you to find a cheaper form fitting display that is square
Sometimes you need to “waste” display to save expense
Very nice.
My thoughts, break the button PCB into 4 parts it will be cheaper, they have to mill out the hole in the middle, join them to a common controller chain with 5 wire 2mm JST connectors.
if you are using something like a teensy to control multiple keypad panels use a TCA8418 for the buttons it's an I2C GPIO keyboard encoder drives 80 buttons and costs the same as the shitty I2C gpio extenders but does configurable KB scan itself and just sends you a number, also comes with a 10 slot fifo so you can be slow.
Thanks mate :) Yeah valid point, but I’d rather pay for having a single unit PCB
Yeah the IO expanders on the board do just fine 🤙🏻 but it is one of those hobbies where you can do it 50 different ways
Another great video, can a ask how the rocker switches work for gain, contrast etc.. Are they a specific type of switch? Or just 2 normal momentary switches side by side?
Hey! Yeah they are two TL1240 push buttons side by side 🤙🏻
Can you share the stl files for the knobs please ? Cant find them online
Hey! All the STL/.3mf files are on the Open Hornet git hub 😊 it’s around Ep.12 where I show how to download the build package 🤙🏻
What program did you use for the pdf? How are you able to click on them?
Hey sorry! What PDF are you referencing
I may need to watch my video again 😂
How does wing wing manage to get the perfect size of screen though it must exist somewhere my ocd would not allow the screen point out like that
Hey it definitely does exist
You’ll probs pay 4 times as much
The top of the screen tucks away behind the upper instrument panel 🤙🏻🤙🏻 stay tuned for next episode
I’ll be painting the cockpit grey and I’ll install the AMPCD and show you how it works
Yeah I definitely wouldn’t leave it like this as a stand alone module 😂
@@aHornetsNest What would the mesurements nedded to get it exact lol asking for a friend ocd lol i mean just of the screen
Haha I can double check for you
I’ll make a video eventually for those screens
please do be interested @@aHornetsNest
Winwing probably scales their MFD/DDI to match up with screens are readily available on the market.
Open Hornet is a 1:1 replica sized to the actual Hornet. That means stepping away from having a screen that matches perfectly.
Both ways of making these has a flaw. You either have a compromise with not being actual size or you have a screen that might be off sized but not noticeable due to viewing angle.
Respect !
@@speedbird8326 🤙🏻🤙🏻🫡
I have a question. I am using Condor 3 gliding simulator. It includes a flight computer, LX NAV 9070. I do not know if this program can have the flight computer separated from the main screen as you have done with the other simulator, but if id can be I am not sure if it uses DCS Bios or what. Let me know if you can find out.
Hey DCS bios only works for DCS, I haven’t heard of Condor before, but I’m sure there is some online hero that has done it before and can help out 🤙🏻
where did you get the arrow file
Hey! I created my own by just getting the dimensions of fusion
But I’ve now seen that it’s in the dev branch of OH under “knobs”
Where can I find that?
github.com/jrsteensen/OpenHornet/tree/develop/release/OHC_Common_Parts/OHC0003%20-%20ASSY%2C%20KNOBS/manufacturing/Masks
So cool to watch,
I am DIY sim builder too, my biggest problem so far is that my resin buttons painted white are always "yellowish" when I backlight them. When I don't paint them with white - left just white resin it is much better, not sure were is the problem - the wait paint isn't true white?
Thanks mate! What resin brand and colour are you using? And what colour LEDs
@@aHornetsNest LEDs are strong white, resin Anycubic ECO-plat based white. When I light up the resin only it makes nice white text and icons, but when I add 1or2 layers of white during painting and black on top it makes the text yellowish while backlight. I have to test those tamyia white paints.
Ummm yeah it could be just blocking some of the light, and letting through the yellower frequencies
Send me a pic on Instagram or Facebook if you want
I use SMS insignia white … it’s quite good
And it’ll generally only a light layer of it… that way it backlights correctly and doesn’t block too much
I will have a link for the AMPCD Bezel mod file up soon! 🤙🏻
Can you just use the Winwing stuff instead of making your own??
You can :) you’d just need to modify some of the OH files for them to fit
But there are community members that have done that and are happy to share the files 🤙🏻
Same question. But after reading this reply is it the wood parts of the frame/skeleton that needs to be modified? Please and thank you for your time, BTW, youre awesome! @aHornetsNest
@ thanks mate!!! Yeah the frame wooden panel would need to be adjusted as well… but I believe just the mounting holes
Ulukaii has a build log on the OH discord doing a metric WinWing main instrument panel - I think his is pretty cool
Thank you. I'm a machinist during the day. Learning arduino feels like when I learned G code, lol. But altering model files seems alot easier to me. @@aHornetsNest
🙌🏻🙌🏻
i personally am very with 3/16 of an inch myself
Teach me your ways 🫡🫡
You are crazy...
😂😂😂 I know
your prints failing is karma for doubting the superiority of the harrier, just sayin.
looking great though.
@@v_seraphim_v 😂😂😂😂 hahah guess I better keep printing doubles from now one 😂
@@aHornetsNest 😂 Don't be stubborn, embrace the Harrier.
😂😂😂 never
.
🤙🏻