Let's Build a Portable Model Railroad DCC Programming Track
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2024
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“The godly may trip seven times, but they will get up again.
But one disaster is enough to overthrow the wicked.
Don’t rejoice when your enemies fall;
don’t be happy when they stumble.
For the Lord will be displeased with you
and will turn his anger away from them.
Don’t fret because of evildoers;
don’t envy the wicked.”
Proverbs 24: 16-19 NLT - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I love this idea. The only suggestion that I would add is to add bumpers on both ends of the track so the locomotive doesn't run off of one end while you're looking at your computer screen.
I agree
The first time I built a programming track, I used a 6” piece of track and the loco moved so much that it ran off the track before finishing… I enjoy you channel!
Good article, Jimmy. I use a SPROG-II (now superseded by SPROG 3) instead of the Arduino. This costs more, but it is a turnkey system for those who do not want to deal with the Arduino and the motor shield, or with the assembly and programming. Also, the SPROG 3 will operate trains as well; it's literally a mini-DCC system.
Also, instead of a standalone piece of track, I use a section of my layout track which is electrically isolated (e.g. a siding track works nicely). I wire a male 2 pin connector to the track, and I connect a female 2 pin connector to my DCC power bus, and a second 2 pin female connector to my SPROG. (You could use a DPDT center off switch for a permanent wiring solution.) When I want to program, I unplug the track connector from the DCC power bus and plug it into the SPROG. I can program and test while connected to the SPROG. When finished, I unplug the SPROG and connect the track back to the DCC bus.
You provided a great explanation of the alternatives. I am a tea drinker with cream & sugar.
Thanks Jimmy-be well!
Very helpful. Get well soon.
Just starting, so I was programming on teh main, on a very large test loop. Reading the entire CV table, about 90 minutes, and with each read the loco twitched back and forth. I bet it traveled 20 feet. I would recommend some form of a stop at each end of a the track - such as a simple block of foam. Great video.
Please take good care of yourself Jimmy ! I think 🤔 as a railroad community we all care about you ! By the way….. another great 👍 video!
I made one of these years ago and it has been GREAT to use.
That's the best, very informative. I have a programming track, but I never thought to use it with DCC++EX. I'm going to have to try this Thanks a bunch
I use a 3ft piece of some spare wood I had lying around. The track is Atlas Code 100 flex track and I have 3 pieces attached to the board, at different heights. Track is powered from JMRI from a DCC Sprog II, wired into an Atlas 3 track selector. Works fine for me.
Great video Jimmy! Hopefully your skin issues will be over soon, stay safe and enjoy your railroad!
Cheers from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺
Thank you for posting a video that explains that B is for programming track and A is for main..... Can't wait to read my Lok 5 decorder now :)
Hope you feel better soon! Great video, thanks for sharing.
Really cool stuff Jimmy, can't wait for more coffee and trains, hope you heal well, take care!
Take care of yourself Jimmy ...
That looks great. My husband built us one in our train room. His only problem. I didn't appreciate his joining my tracks to his . I run mainly DC. LOL
Looks like your hubby is a robber baron, You need to charge him rent when he runs his trains on your track. LOL
@@petermenningen338 He had it where I couldn't run trains on my track. He thought I would be OKAY with him running them.
I admit: I didn't handle it well. Or very quietly.
Great video jimmy
Very nice video! Just built myself one recently too. It is really a necessity for DCC layouts. 👍
Time for me to put together that programming track. Thanks for the boost. BTW, I did the face chemo thing last year. Not much fun. The treatment lasted 2 weeks, then it took another 2 weeks to get back to semi-normal. Hang in there!
Cool Jimmy. Will be something I'll need. Will not be doing any DCC on my layout but will be having a one of loco&controller to goto train clubs for operations.
This is a great idea. I'll have to build one.
Looks great, Jimmy! I've been using a digitrax PR4 on a small switch-puzzle layout (shoutout to Steve's Trains for the plans) by swapping the dc throttle for the PR4. I probably have enough spare arduino parts to build this. I like the idea of the small dedicated setup. I use a 10 year old netbook as the JRMI host. It's a bit slow loading JRMI, but good enough plus it is super small compared to a normal laptop.
I too learned to keep my bald head covered, especially in the AZ sun. Be well!
Great project idea!
Good video on your channel thank s lee
Kato sell a powered unitrack connector. Basically the Kato plug with two wires that end in track connectors. Would streamline it a bit, as you could just cut the plug off, strip the wires and attach whatever connectors you need for the Arduino.
I didn't need a portable programming track. I just put a N scale and HO scale rack on a board and connected them to my power on the controller base station with a on off switch when not using and just running trains. Another connection runs from my base power station to my laptop for JMRI. I use my handheld for setting address and other settings in JMRI
Latest: After following your instructions, it worked really well, but, now on a Atlas s2 N with ESU i constantly get a code 308. lights and sounds work, but motor will only rev up but, not move at all.....:(
I am going to stick to DC I get to lost in all the programing. I know my strengths and weaknesses and the programing is different weak link. Lol 😂
This is great video for those who can do the programing. Heal kwikly Jimmy see you next time.
GOD BLESS 🚂❤🚂❤🚂❤
No need really for JMRI or programming to change cv's. I use a Roco Z21 DCC control station, which allows me to modify any CV' on my tablet or iPhone, and I can also use both devices to run my locos and throw switches/ turnouts.
I have been meaning to build one of these. Instead of multiple tracks, I want to get myself a piece of dual gauge HO/N. It would be much easier if I could stick to one scale. -Heath
But much less fun!
@@DIYDigitalRailroad I have three. N, HO and British 00 gauge!
I suggest adding a little block of wood at each end of the track to prevent any loco dropping off your workbench if it moves while programming.
Looks great brother. I’ve never gotten into DCC plus plus but I can definitely see the benefit. Also, take care of yourself buddy. Wear sunscreen!
Great video Jimmy last time you weren't showing you face you child ruffed you up
Dcc++Ex also has special features that mean you can even test loco functions like sound and lights on the prog track.
Nice!
I built one also, but it's finished. I can also use it as a backdrop for loco pictures.
8:01 nice deocoder type
Thanks! When I am doing sound, I like to use the ESU decoders because they fit better. I had a bad experience with milling a chassis for a digitrax speaker and I sheared the metal body in half. If I am not doing sound, I get the cheapest digitrax decoder I can find.
Compact, portable dcc station - great! Lugging a pc around defeats the light weight, portable station. What about portable jmri? And, what did you use for 12vdc power?
PS., have you thought about adding a booster to your arduino for programming???
I have that exact setup except not permanent yet. I have a BLI and 2 Atlas locos with Digitrax decoders that won't respond to JMRI with this setup. Have you needed a programming booster for any of yours and is there one you recommend?
Could you provide a link to those power connectors that let you go from barrel to individual wires like you used in this application? I searched your Amazon shop and they're not in there. Don't even know what they're called LOL!
I hope you're doing well with your treatment. Hopefully that will soon be behind you.
Jimmy, did you forget to bend the 2 power pins on the motor shield out of the way to prevent 12volts from burning out the Uno or is this only running 5 volts from the laptop? Great vid!
Hey Matt. The arduino can handle up to 12 volts. So there is no danger of burn out.
Cutting the VIN trace and BRAKE traces on the bottom of the motor shield allows the use of an external power supply safely for track power. Used laptop power supplies are ideal for HO and above. N scale can get away with 12 volts, though sound equipped locks can want more power and be finicky.
Does anyone have an update on the settings? the compiler has been significantly updated. I did not get the choice of 'arduino Motor Shield' so I chose 'standard motor shield' ? everything looks ok and decoder pro all looks fine, just getting no read/lights flashing from either the loco shield or the deek-Robot motor shield I am using? ( yes I have switched on in the program) thanks
Can you do I video on Dcc++ ex for mu two engines with speed matching, how to?
0:40 what song is that in that in the background? Sounds like something in Sonic the Hedgehog
I’m fairly new to the world of DCC. I’ve done some programming through my NCE Power Cab, but this looks so much easier. What make and model of Arduino UNO and L298N did you use? I’m seeing all kinds out there and I want to keep this as simple as possible by building exactly what you did.
I have the motor shield linked and the UNO clone I use the most linked as well in the description.
By chance, is it too late to resubmit my entry for this upcoming virtual model railroad show?
wow that's a lot of browser tabs🤓
Does this work for Mac? I want to build a program track to save time & congestion at my local model RR club, but, as a Mac user, I am also not fond of the idea of buying a new PC just to program my locomotives.
It would be nice if you explain the different parts you assume we are all electrical engineers
Shouldn't the L298 be a P not an N?
1. Can I use a Mac laptop as the computer?. 2. Can this be used to load sound files into the loco decoder?
Yes. I use a mac. If you can load sound through JMRI then yes.
I want to built this programming track but am confused by the use of serial ports. I don't have any on my PC. Can a USB port be used?
Hey Bob. Yes you can use USB. USB actually stands for “Universal Serial Bus”. It’s a bit confusing for all of us who had computers with Serial ports.
@@DIYDigitalRailroad Thank you!
I wonder about the feasibility of making one real portable by using jmri on a pi instead of carrying around a laptop. Trouble is, I don’t think you can use Dropbox on a pi, right?
Take care with that sun exposure Jimmy.
JMRI actually has a Linux disk image you can download onto a Pi.
My layout is still dc
This system no longer works as of 03NOV2023. Motor board that he chose does not connect/talk with the uno board nor JMRI
oh just read this..... did you find a solution Jon?
True JMRI is free, but a lot of people give a lot of their personal time and energy to JMRI's development and maintenance. As such, be the better person and hit the "Donate" button to give a bit of help to the project's continuance and to acknowledge your appreciation for their efforts.
WTF hot glue to connect electrical connections to the track!!! 🤣
Naturally I’m not doing that on my actual layout lol!
I never got why my grandpa took up this hobby... this programming shit is so annoying who made this bruh