I have a Schaublin 125 but I just love the 102-VM because it was the one I used back when I was at technical school. And the curves are so beautiul too.
I have a 102vm. The delay is more than normal for a gear train because of the dog clutch in the lead screw feed system for threading. This dog clutch is there to provide automatic pick up of the thread when cutting threads. This is why there is no threading dial fitted, it's not needed. You'll find the excessive play is not there when the gearbox is in the normal feed mode (not screw cutting). Also, you may of done this, but I didn't see it in the video. There is a lubrication point at the end of the bed so you can lubricate the bronze bushing that holds the end of the lead screw. If you move the tail stock forward you will see a plug between the ways. Remove it and add oil..Also, there is an adjustment for the end play of the lead screw. It's a screw located on the right of the lathe bed body in line with the lead screw. There is a locking screw for the adjustment located between the ways. at the extreme right. You might want to check it since it seems it's been a while since your lathe was serviced. BTW, I also have a series 13 milling machine. Happy to answer any questions you have about it.
Witam!!Super precyzyjna Tokarka do toczenia bardzo dokladnych czesci!!Pokaz Video Okey!Tak trzymac!!Praca przy takiej maszynie to to rzetelnosc wykonania dobrej czesci!!
Great info. Not many videos out there for this lathe. Got myself one just recently send to be in good shape but all greased up :/ I'm looking for a gear set for it but as of now no luck, if you have any leads on getting a set I would be very happy to hear about it. Thanks
Hello Itamar, maybe this will help you : www.tumlikovo.cz/rozborka-go-schaublin-sv-102-vm/ best site about 102VM restorian. below the firs article you can find much more links with gearbox, repaint, cross-slide rebuild , etc... its in Czech langugea, but automatic chrome translator will help. At least pictures told you a lot
same for you Bart. check that link below. My 102vm still waiting to be alive again. But this web is so helpfull. Not so much informations and detailed pictures is find thru the internet www.tumlikovo.cz/rozborka-go-schaublin-sv-102-vm/
Itamar, maybe you could be interested in new gears, that guy who rebuild that 102 from the link below also making new sets unce upon the time. Don't know the price, but I can ask him if you want. scrooll down to see how it looks here :forum.strojirenstvi.cz/viewtopic.php?f=107&t=10366&start=30
Just add a bit of Moly-slip for gear boxes (as used in cars) to your gear oil...You won't believe how much smoother the gears run and how much less loud they are! Paddy
Bart the delay is from the gear lash in the apron and is normal. As with any set of gears the amount of lash gets a little worse with use but your delay is about half of what my south bend has. My south bend I suspect is a little older than your lathe. My south bend was manufactured in 1939 and is a veteran as it was originally sold to the Air Force and has seen quite a bit of use and abuse (yes I am guilty of some of the abuse). So I would consider your delay as normal. As for the hard shifting it is a mechanical gear box without a clutch and the gears have to line up and mesh to engage. On my south bend I have to go slow on the shift and using slight pressure coming out of neutral you can feel the gears mesh and fall into forward and reverse. If I try to go to fast or to hard the gears will touch on the teeth and one will drag the other not letting them mesh together. Hope this helps.
Dan Boyles the delay is from the dog clutch in the gearbox. The Schaublin has a dog clutch like the old CVA 1A, the Hendey lathes and the Hardinge HLV.
Hi Bart, thanks for the videos on the Schaublin. I've recently inherited a 102-VM myself (1953 model) and am in the process of cleaning it up, changing oils etc to get it back up and running (I'm a complete novice to lathes). I noticed that you ran into the same problem I did with draining the oil from the gearbox - ie. how to remove the sight glass / drain plug assembly?-Did you figure this out in the end or are you happy just letting it drain out of the lowest bolt hole when you do that oil change? I figure I'm going to do the same. Cheers, Ross.
Hi Ross, I had the same problem. Didn't know how to remove the sight glass so I used the drain plug and a lot of petrol / paper / air to get it all clean (p.s. try to keep the dirt out of the bearings when you use compressed air).
Hi Ross, also for you this could be helpfull : www.tumlikovo.cz/rozborka-go-schaublin-sv-102-vm/ best site about 102VM restorian. below the first article you can find much more links with gearbox, repaint, cross-slide rebuild , etc... its in Czech language, but automatic chrome translator will help. At least pictures told you a lot... cheers Peter
There are grease nipple fittings at all points on schaublin machines , do we actually use grease gun or is there some sort of oil gun that suits those fittings ?? i can see you using one in the video is it grease or oil
These are all oil fittings. They are NOT for grease. Use slideways oils like Shell Tonna 68. The oil gun is a must have (you still can buy these new) for a machine like this.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 I'm building my own workplace and took over the schaublin 102-vm lathe and schaublin 12 mill from my father. I'm also giving it a clean and fresh oil though they are already in really good condition. I'm only confused about the grease/oil thing. This one came with a pump filled with grease (brown/orange). Not with oil. I have alway's know to use grease on all the nipples but in some manuals I only find "good mineral oil with viscousity of 3E at 50C" I'm confused now ;).
@@AcEkrystal Hi, Those are beautiful machines to have in the shop. I can understand some confusion because some people use grease on machines. But for the Schaublin it is important that you use only Oil. And there is different oil for the gearbox / headstock and for the apron / slideways. I also have two oil pumps for that. Some oil fittings go straight into a bearing or are connected to the oil system. It's not good that these get filled with grease. So the pump should be filled with oil and not grease. I use Shell Tellus and Tonna. Hope this helps and if you need some more information on the machine then let me know. Bart
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 Thank you for you response and advice. The machines came with one bottle of Vitrea 32. So I used that to fill all the bathes. I flushed out the main bearings and also put Vitrea in those. My bottle is no empty so I'm planning on getting new oils and greases. I'm doing some research myself as for what oils would be best and I came to the following conclusion : Morlina 32 (replacement for Vitrea) or Omala 32 for the bathes and main bearings. Tonna 68 for the leibaan/Slideway's, feedscrews. And I'm planning on keeping some parts in grease (Gadus V220) Now I'm curious on your selection of oils and uses ;). Why did you go for Tonna (leibaanolie) as bathe and main bearing lubricant? And use a hydrolic type of oil for the Leibaan/Slideway's? Then you are also using viscosity of 68 which converts to ~8.55 Engler Degrees while my Schaublin 102VM manual states : 2.5°E for bearings and oil bath. 4°E for slideway's and feedscrews, and grease for feedscrew bearings. My Schaublin 12 mill states to use no more then 4.5°E for oil bathes. The Manual actually also states to use Vitrea 27 which has a °E of ~3.6. Seeing what others do, and seeing you use Tonna as bearing/bath oil, and how hard it is to get small bottles of the oil I actually wanted to use, I'm tempted to just go with Tonna 68 for everything and grease on some sliding places. I'm curious to your thoughts and choices.
Not yet. It's still on my project list but I got to busy with other projects and metal work. The nr13 Mill is still in parts and needs painting. But I decided to focus this year on building a bigger workshop. So further work on the Schaublin will have to wait.
Hallo Bart, nog een vraagje wat betreft de smering. Ik vind nergens in de manual jouw aanbeveling voor Tonna 68 (leibaanolie) en Tellus 68? Wel iets voor Shell Vitrea 27?? Ik vind het ook niet erg duidelijk aangegeven welke nippels met welke olie gesmeerd moeten worden. Het lijkt me dat de nippels bij de geleidingen met de Tonna gesmeerd moeten worden en de overige met de Tellus?? Kan jij er iets over zeggen?
Er staan verschillende opties in de handleiding betreft de olie. Het is niet perse mijn aanbeveling maar deze Tonna en Tellus werd (al vele jaren) gebruikt bij een grote machinewerkplaats waar ik twee liter kon kopen. En na wat zoeken op internet leek dit mij geschikt. De Tellus gebruik ik voor de draaiende delen. De Tonna voor de leibanen incl. de automatische voeding bak. De laatste wist ik ook niet zeker en heb ik zo gekozen. Wat ik in de praktijk lastiger vind is dat je ook twee smeerpompen moet hebben en ze niet door elkaar wil halen. En dat wisselt per nippel (staat idd niet heel duidelijk aangegeven maar je weet wel welke naar een lager lopen en welke naar een leibaan). Omdat de belastingen op de leibanen niet super hoog zijn zou je ook gewoon overal Tellus voor kunnen gebruiken. Misschien iets minder goed voor de leibanen maar wel veel praktischer in gebruik.
Hartelijk dank voor je reactie. Nee, je met de smeerpompen niet verwisselen, is mij ook eens overkomen. Als je de hoofdspillagers smeert met Tonna dan lopen ze erg warm, zo naukeurig zijn ze!
I like to put magnets in machines that may make ferrous metal chips, etc.. Epoxy them to drain plugs, put them in low places, all situated where tails of filings can reach rotating parts. Your machine is so clean there is little need, however. What a prize! Save the slide, it may be valuable.
Good tip. It's like i have in my motorcycle. But most chips in the Lathe where brass so non magnetic. And now i think it is clean enough and with good care it won't give much new chips. I will keep the slide, maybe build a grinding tool on it.
Brass, wonder where that came from? I saw a youtube Colchester rebuild that had one of the gear bushings disintegrate. But you checked gear mesh, I think. Perhaps wear from engaging the brass sliding gear while rotating. Sorry, perhaps I’m being a worry wart. :)
I'm quite impressed with the condition of the lathe, I've seen some quite unhappy machines recently. If you're interested in selling the old topslide (with the crack), let me know, I'd be interested in using it for a project where I can either repair the damage or use the other t-slot.
Hoi Bart, machtig mooie machine! Ik werk er dagelijks mee op mijn werk, een 102VM gekocht in 1969 bij Esmeijer en still going strong! Ken je deze site? anglo-swiss-tools.co.uk/schaublin-102vm-102n-vm/
I have a Schaublin 125 but I just love the 102-VM because it was the one I used back when I was at technical school. And the curves are so beautiul too.
I have a 102vm. The delay is more than normal for a gear train because of the dog clutch in the lead screw feed system for threading. This dog clutch is there to provide automatic pick up of the thread when cutting threads. This is why there is no threading dial fitted, it's not needed. You'll find the excessive play is not there when the gearbox is in the normal feed mode (not screw cutting). Also, you may of done this, but I didn't see it in the video. There is a lubrication point at the end of the bed so you can lubricate the bronze bushing that holds the end of the lead screw. If you move the tail stock forward you will see a plug between the ways. Remove it and add oil..Also, there is an adjustment for the end play of the lead screw. It's a screw located on the right of the lathe bed body in line with the lead screw. There is a locking screw for the adjustment located between the ways. at the extreme right. You might want to check it since it seems it's been a while since your lathe was serviced. BTW, I also have a series 13 milling machine. Happy to answer any questions you have about it.
David Perry nice reply and good tips!
Good stuff, any chance you can upload a picture or two of the points you mentioned?
I have a lathe (Acer 14-40) but I drool over yours. Have a great time with that.
Witam!!Super precyzyjna Tokarka do toczenia bardzo dokladnych czesci!!Pokaz Video Okey!Tak trzymac!!Praca przy takiej maszynie to to rzetelnosc wykonania dobrej czesci!!
Nice vieo thy. Would you buy the 102VM again?
Great info. Not many videos out there for this lathe.
Got myself one just recently send to be in good shape but all greased up :/
I'm looking for a gear set for it but as of now no luck, if you have any leads on getting a set I would be very happy to hear about it.
Thanks
Thank you. And good luck with yours. If I see a gear set somewhere for sale I'll let you know.
Hello Itamar,
maybe this will help you : www.tumlikovo.cz/rozborka-go-schaublin-sv-102-vm/
best site about 102VM restorian. below the firs article you can find much more links with gearbox, repaint, cross-slide rebuild , etc... its in Czech langugea, but automatic chrome translator will help. At least pictures told you a lot
same for you Bart. check that link below. My 102vm still waiting to be alive again. But this web is so helpfull. Not so much informations and detailed pictures is find thru the internet
www.tumlikovo.cz/rozborka-go-schaublin-sv-102-vm/
Itamar, maybe you could be interested in new gears, that guy who rebuild that 102 from the link below also making new sets unce upon the time. Don't know the price, but I can ask him if you want.
scrooll down to see how it looks here :forum.strojirenstvi.cz/viewtopic.php?f=107&t=10366&start=30
@@hferrum a really good source. Thank you for letting me know 👋🏻
Hi Bart, heb je normale euro95 gebruikt?
Nee petroleum voor schoonmaken
Just add a bit of Moly-slip for gear boxes (as used in cars) to your gear oil...You won't believe how much smoother the gears run and how much less loud they are!
Paddy
A very very good tip!
Bart the delay is from the gear lash in the apron and is normal. As with any set of gears the amount of lash gets a little worse with use but your delay is about half of what my south bend has. My south bend I suspect is a little older than your lathe. My south bend was manufactured in 1939 and is a veteran as it was originally sold to the Air Force and has seen quite a bit of use and abuse (yes I am guilty of some of the abuse). So I would consider your delay as normal. As for the hard shifting it is a mechanical gear box without a clutch and the gears have to line up and mesh to engage. On my south bend I have to go slow on the shift and using slight pressure coming out of neutral you can feel the gears mesh and fall into forward and reverse. If I try to go to fast or to hard the gears will touch on the teeth and one will drag the other not letting them mesh together. Hope this helps.
Dan Boyles the delay is from the dog clutch in the gearbox. The Schaublin has a dog clutch like the old CVA 1A, the Hendey lathes and the Hardinge HLV.
@ 12 mins what gun are you using grease or oil
Hi Bart, thanks for the videos on the Schaublin. I've recently inherited a 102-VM myself (1953 model) and am in the process of cleaning it up, changing oils etc to get it back up and running (I'm a complete novice to lathes). I noticed that you ran into the same problem I did with draining the oil from the gearbox - ie. how to remove the sight glass / drain plug assembly?-Did you figure this out in the end or are you happy just letting it drain out of the lowest bolt hole when you do that oil change? I figure I'm going to do the same. Cheers, Ross.
Hi Ross, I had the same problem. Didn't know how to remove the sight glass so I used the drain plug and a lot of petrol / paper / air to get it all clean (p.s. try to keep the dirt out of the bearings when you use compressed air).
Hi Ross,
also for you this could be helpfull : www.tumlikovo.cz/rozborka-go-schaublin-sv-102-vm/
best site about 102VM restorian. below the first article you can find much more links with gearbox, repaint, cross-slide rebuild , etc... its in Czech language, but automatic chrome translator will help. At least pictures told you a lot...
cheers
Peter
There are grease nipple fittings at all points on schaublin machines , do we actually use grease gun or is there some sort of oil gun that suits those fittings ?? i can see you using one in the video is it grease or oil
These are all oil fittings. They are NOT for grease. Use slideways oils like Shell Tonna 68. The oil gun is a must have (you still can buy these new) for a machine like this.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 I'm building my own workplace and took over the schaublin 102-vm lathe and schaublin 12 mill from my father. I'm also giving it a clean and fresh oil though they are already in really good condition. I'm only confused about the grease/oil thing. This one came with a pump filled with grease (brown/orange). Not with oil. I have alway's know to use grease on all the nipples but in some manuals I only find "good mineral oil with viscousity of 3E at 50C" I'm confused now ;).
@@AcEkrystal Hi, Those are beautiful machines to have in the shop. I can understand some confusion because some people use grease on machines. But for the Schaublin it is important that you use only Oil. And there is different oil for the gearbox / headstock and for the apron / slideways. I also have two oil pumps for that. Some oil fittings go straight into a bearing or are connected to the oil system. It's not good that these get filled with grease. So the pump should be filled with oil and not grease. I use Shell Tellus and Tonna. Hope this helps and if you need some more information on the machine then let me know. Bart
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 Thank you for you response and advice. The machines came with one bottle of Vitrea 32. So I used that to fill all the bathes. I flushed out the main bearings and also put Vitrea in those. My bottle is no empty so I'm planning on getting new oils and greases. I'm doing some research myself as for what oils would be best and I came to the following conclusion : Morlina 32 (replacement for Vitrea) or Omala 32 for the bathes and main bearings. Tonna 68 for the leibaan/Slideway's, feedscrews. And I'm planning on keeping some parts in grease (Gadus V220)
Now I'm curious on your selection of oils and uses ;). Why did you go for Tonna (leibaanolie) as bathe and main bearing lubricant? And use a hydrolic type of oil for the Leibaan/Slideway's?
Then you are also using viscosity of 68 which converts to ~8.55 Engler Degrees while my Schaublin 102VM manual states : 2.5°E for bearings and oil bath. 4°E for slideway's and feedscrews, and grease for feedscrew bearings. My Schaublin 12 mill states to use no more then 4.5°E for oil bathes. The Manual actually also states to use Vitrea 27 which has a °E of ~3.6.
Seeing what others do, and seeing you use Tonna as bearing/bath oil, and how hard it is to get small bottles of the oil I actually wanted to use, I'm tempted to just go with Tonna 68 for everything and grease on some sliding places.
I'm curious to your thoughts and choices.
That's a beautiful lathe
Yes, I really like working with it.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 was there a part 4. Be interesting to watch
Not yet. It's still on my project list but I got to busy with other projects and metal work. The nr13 Mill is still in parts and needs painting. But I decided to focus this year on building a bigger workshop. So further work on the Schaublin will have to wait.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 that's a coincidence I too am building a workshop. But it's just to cold for the concrete footings.
Haha, nice! Same here in the Netherlands. Got snow and to cold to work outside (for me).
Hallo Bart, nog een vraagje wat betreft de smering. Ik vind nergens in de manual jouw aanbeveling voor Tonna 68 (leibaanolie) en Tellus 68? Wel iets voor Shell Vitrea 27?? Ik vind het ook niet erg duidelijk aangegeven welke nippels met welke olie gesmeerd moeten worden. Het lijkt me dat de nippels bij de geleidingen met de Tonna gesmeerd moeten worden en de overige met de Tellus?? Kan jij er iets over zeggen?
Er staan verschillende opties in de handleiding betreft de olie. Het is niet perse mijn aanbeveling maar deze Tonna en Tellus werd (al vele jaren) gebruikt bij een grote machinewerkplaats waar ik twee liter kon kopen. En na wat zoeken op internet leek dit mij geschikt. De Tellus gebruik ik voor de draaiende delen. De Tonna voor de leibanen incl. de automatische voeding bak. De laatste wist ik ook niet zeker en heb ik zo gekozen. Wat ik in de praktijk lastiger vind is dat je ook twee smeerpompen moet hebben en ze niet door elkaar wil halen. En dat wisselt per nippel (staat idd niet heel duidelijk aangegeven maar je weet wel welke naar een lager lopen en welke naar een leibaan). Omdat de belastingen op de leibanen niet super hoog zijn zou je ook gewoon overal Tellus voor kunnen gebruiken. Misschien iets minder goed voor de leibanen maar wel veel praktischer in gebruik.
Hartelijk dank voor je reactie. Nee, je met de smeerpompen niet verwisselen, is mij ook eens overkomen. Als je de hoofdspillagers smeert met Tonna dan lopen ze erg warm, zo naukeurig zijn ze!
This is how the OL-J3 works on the bed of SCH 102
th-cam.com/video/zJFSxJ7eLLE/w-d-xo.html
I like to put magnets in machines that may make ferrous metal chips, etc.. Epoxy them to drain plugs, put them in low places, all situated where tails of filings can reach rotating parts. Your machine is so clean there is little need, however. What a prize! Save the slide, it may be valuable.
Good tip. It's like i have in my motorcycle. But most chips in the Lathe where brass so non magnetic. And now i think it is clean enough and with good care it won't give much new chips. I will keep the slide, maybe build a grinding tool on it.
Brass, wonder where that came from? I saw a youtube Colchester rebuild that had one of the gear bushings disintegrate. But you checked gear mesh, I think. Perhaps wear from engaging the brass sliding gear while rotating. Sorry, perhaps I’m being a worry wart. :)
You can see it in de video at 4:31. Its the brass gear from the automatic feed.
Sorry, I meant to say place the magnets where the tails of shavings do NOT touch the rotating parts.
I'm quite impressed with the condition of the lathe, I've seen some quite unhappy machines recently.
If you're interested in selling the old topslide (with the crack), let me know, I'd be interested in using it for a project where I can either repair the damage or use the other t-slot.
Класс! Молодец!
This Old Tony has a Schaublin mill.
Yes thanks, I saw his video
Die vertraging lijkt me normaal hoor, ik herken dat wel.
Dank voor je reactie. Schijnt er inderdaad bij te horen, juist om elke keer op zelfde punt in te schakelen.
Hoi Bart, machtig mooie machine! Ik werk er dagelijks mee op mijn werk, een 102VM gekocht in 1969 bij Esmeijer en still going strong! Ken je deze site? anglo-swiss-tools.co.uk/schaublin-102vm-102n-vm/
Dank je. En ja, echt super fijne machine om achter te staan. De site kende ik inderdaad, wel goede site met veel info.
You are german. The manuell ist of German
No i'm Dutch, but my Girlfriend is German ;-)