The film of grime that builds up everywhere over 40-50 years takes hours and hours to work through. Always a good job to 'sleep on' the next decision to make. Great photography Darren, as always.
Filed in the loft ! I got so much stuff filled in my loft at home I had to reinforce the ceiling as the nails kept popping out of the plasterboard underneath .
Hi! At 3:20, when power on, the VU meters are in the red zone. How did you fix this? Is it the capacitors? Was it possible to repair the rewind? Thanks for your repair videos, they are very helpful!
@@VladimirLobastov_ generally it's the record /playback switch needs cleaning due to oxide build up. Sometimes going to record and playback mode a few times will clear it. Some playback amplifiers oscillate when the heads are not connected properly due to the oxidation. Switch cleaner is the best solution Daz
Hi Darren, yes, the tape run led should be flashing as it plays. I recognise the deck as my cousin bought the predecessor - the AD1500 when he sold his old Trio KX-700 Cassette Deck to me. Your deck looks like it is in good nick and I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on with cleaning it up.
Ah that's interesting, I will have to check the circuit on the LED. Yes, be nice to finish it off. I had bought some capacitors to do that once the mechanics are good. Hope I didn't use them in something else! Daz
Motor Start/Run Capacitor: If it's a motor start/run capacitor, there's no polarity to be concerned about. Reminds me of the two TC-161SD decks I repaired. They too had the 50/60Hz option, so I re-wired for 50hz option only.
Now that's a quality bit of kit, All metal chassis and yes that big flywheel is nice 😀 You have done really well to get the " Evil rubber of madness " removed lol. I've had to do the same thing to a reel to reel, i tryed all sorts of fluid to get the evil rubber moving. Even petrol, but it usually came to scraping as much off as possible first. I feel your pain, i have been there. That tape counter looks the same as one on an old piano key top loader vcr, good quality. I like the mains motor, really heavy duty with cooling, i can't see that ever fail. Maybe that short pcb was used in other tape decks they produced and the edge socket created trouble, so solder wires direct for reliability maybe?. You have done a lot in one video, i thought you didn't want to go mad in one go. Once you start, you can't stop ha ha 😀 I liked the overhead camara, you mostly don't need to move it, less camera work 😀
Oh yes, There is still rubber on the carpet in the wokshop! Its been said WD40 is good, but not sure about using that on a flywheel without degreasing. The induction motor is pretty cool, plenty of torque. A good point, edge connectors are not great. Yes, I think I went over the time allocated on the deck, but sometimes I get really into things. The only problem with the overhead camera footage is I have to turn it upside down in editing with the current bracket. Daz
I used to sell Aiwa, well the more HiFi stuff. I recall for the money the sound was always first class. Reliability was not the best. We were told by the Aiwa rep at the time that they were a part of Sony. You will find many Sony parts inside. Great heads, good motors, much better than the small DC motors found on almost all decks of the time. Also good to see the FET version of Dolby. Later decks used a Dolby chip, they did not track well or sound as good. Always abit of a mess regarding wiring.
Thanks for the info, Michael. Well worth me finishing when I get there. I do like decks with a induction motor, seem more sturdy. I've noticed so much difference in Dolby tracking and some decks are awful. Daz.
@@darrencoe5795 One of the main reasons cassette decks sound worse with time is head ware but ironically not really due to totally to head ware. As the head begins to loose HF the Dolby cannot track the HF roll off and slightly lower out put. In professional circles the Dolby level and HF lift can be adjusted but not in the domestic market. That's why glass ferrite heads sound better longer, but again ironically a metal head sounds better initially but deuterates quicker.
Hi Darren - I've just discovered your channel! Excellent stuff! I am running a ANK 1 (300B valve integrated amplifier) in to Living Voice speakers and at present my source is a Naim Audio CD BUT . . . due to CD collection taking rediculous ampunf of space am wanting a streamed source ie cmputer via a DAC - what DAC would you recommend - happy to do the kit thing - enjoy building. Any sugestioins welcomed. Am thinking USB out to DAC then to Amp - is that in your opinion the way to go? Cheers John
Hi John, I'm glad you have found the channel of interest. If you look at my EL34 amplifier video, you will see a DAC with a valve buffer kit I built a few years ago connected to a Linux PC. My HIFI is still running a DACMAGIC 2. I think the problem is none of my DAC's can support above 16Bit or 48Khz. That is something to check now. I think 24Bit and 96KHz is minimum. Daz
The film of grime that builds up everywhere over 40-50 years takes hours and hours to work through. Always a good job to 'sleep on' the next decision to make.
Great photography Darren, as always.
Thank you. Yes the de-grease is quite a job in these units. Daz
Thanks Darren. Always fascinating to see how the mechanical parts interface with the electronics. Here’s to 2022!
Oh it is very interesting to see a different way to do the same thing! All the best for 2022. Daz
Filed in the loft ! I got so much stuff filled in my loft at home I had to reinforce the ceiling as the nails kept popping out of the plasterboard underneath .
I often worry about the stuff I have in my loft. That sounds scary indeed!
Hi! At 3:20, when power on, the VU meters are in the red zone. How did you fix this? Is it the capacitors? Was it possible to repair the rewind? Thanks for your repair videos, they are very helpful!
@@VladimirLobastov_ generally it's the record /playback switch needs cleaning due to oxide build up. Sometimes going to record and playback mode a few times will clear it. Some playback amplifiers oscillate when the heads are not connected properly due to the oxidation. Switch cleaner is the best solution Daz
@@darrencoe5795 Darren, thank you very much! I will take action and watch your interesting and educational videos!
Going to be a nice tape machine by the time you have completed the servicing, Darren....here's to 2022..
I am looking forward to finishing the deck. Built like a tank it seems. All the best for 2022. Daz
Hi Darren, yes, the tape run led should be flashing as it plays. I recognise the deck as my cousin bought the predecessor - the AD1500 when he sold his old Trio KX-700 Cassette Deck to me. Your deck looks like it is in good nick and I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on with cleaning it up.
Ah that's interesting, I will have to check the circuit on the LED. Yes, be nice to finish it off. I had bought some capacitors to do that once the mechanics are good. Hope I didn't use them in something else! Daz
Motor Start/Run Capacitor: If it's a motor start/run capacitor, there's no polarity to be concerned about. Reminds me of the two TC-161SD decks I repaired. They too had the 50/60Hz option, so I re-wired for 50hz option only.
Now that's a quality bit of kit, All metal chassis and yes that big flywheel is nice 😀
You have done really well to get the " Evil rubber of madness " removed lol.
I've had to do the same thing to a reel to reel, i tryed all sorts of fluid to get the evil rubber moving.
Even petrol, but it usually came to scraping as much off as possible first.
I feel your pain, i have been there.
That tape counter looks the same as one on an old piano key top loader vcr, good quality.
I like the mains motor, really heavy duty with cooling, i can't see that ever fail.
Maybe that short pcb was used in other tape decks they produced and the edge socket created trouble, so solder wires direct for reliability maybe?.
You have done a lot in one video, i thought you didn't want to go mad in one go.
Once you start, you can't stop ha ha 😀
I liked the overhead camara, you mostly don't need to move it, less camera work 😀
Oh yes, There is still rubber on the carpet in the wokshop! Its been said WD40 is good, but not sure about using that on a flywheel without degreasing. The induction motor is pretty cool, plenty of torque. A good point, edge connectors are not great. Yes, I think I went over the time allocated on the deck, but sometimes I get really into things. The only problem with the overhead camera footage is I have to turn it upside down in editing with the current bracket. Daz
@@darrencoe5795 hey you enjoyed fixing it, that's all that matters 😀
I used to sell Aiwa, well the more HiFi stuff. I recall for the money the sound was always first class. Reliability was not the best. We were told by the Aiwa rep at the time that they were a part of Sony. You will find many Sony parts inside. Great heads, good motors, much better than the small DC motors found on almost all decks of the time. Also good to see the FET version of Dolby. Later decks used a Dolby chip, they did not track well or sound as good. Always abit of a mess regarding wiring.
Thanks for the info, Michael. Well worth me finishing when I get there. I do like decks with a induction motor, seem more sturdy. I've noticed so much difference in Dolby tracking and some decks are awful. Daz.
@@darrencoe5795 One of the main reasons cassette decks sound worse with time is head ware but ironically not really due to totally to head ware. As the head begins to loose HF the Dolby cannot track the HF roll off and slightly lower out put. In professional circles the Dolby level and HF lift can be adjusted but not in the domestic market. That's why glass ferrite heads sound better longer, but again ironically a metal head sounds better initially but deuterates quicker.
Hi Darren - I've just discovered your channel! Excellent stuff! I am running a ANK 1 (300B valve integrated amplifier) in to Living Voice speakers and at present my source is a Naim Audio CD BUT . . . due to CD collection taking rediculous ampunf of space am wanting a streamed source ie cmputer via a DAC - what DAC would you recommend - happy to do the kit thing - enjoy building. Any sugestioins welcomed. Am thinking USB out to DAC then to Amp - is that in your opinion the way to go? Cheers John
Hi John, I'm glad you have found the channel of interest. If you look at my EL34 amplifier video, you will see a DAC with a valve buffer kit I built a few years ago connected to a Linux PC. My HIFI is still running a DACMAGIC 2. I think the problem is none of my DAC's can support above 16Bit or 48Khz. That is something to check now. I think 24Bit and 96KHz is minimum. Daz