I did the Kelsey Hayes four piston front disc brake with power booster kit from CSRP on my 1968 Mustang Coupe. The kit came with everything even the longer pedal for power brakes at under $800 and works great. The upgrade from manual drum to power disc is well worth it and so must better to drive especially on cruise night in stop and go driving.
I agree with Jeff. Some of the most "muscular" of muscle cars had drum brakes all around, and they worked FINE in most daily circumstances. I installed the "Brake In A Box" kit front and back on my 68 Torino. These ceramic shoes from Muscle Car Brakes work great... and actually better as they warm up. Upgrading a weekend cruiser to disc is a waste of money. Remember, cars like the Hemi Belvederes, and 427 Galaxies had drums all around. Maybe not a perfect situation for racing, but if shoes are properly adjusted, they stop just fine on the street.
Stainless steel is a very hard steel. When cutting, threading and joining stainless piping it's much harder to get it to seal because it has almost no give. Mild steel has more give to it so it conforms to the surface it's meeting up to quite well. Stainless lines are fantastic IF you can get them to seal. Another problem is that when wrenching the fitting into place you can crush the wheel cylinder connection before you crush the stainless tight enough to keep it from leaking.
I have a 1964 Chevelle Malibu/SS that is pretty much all stock. It has the 283 and powerglide transmission not a huge hp machine. Would love to keep the drums because I hate cleaning brake dust from my wheels. But I want a power booster and dual master cylinder. What can be done to keep it cruising safely.
We'd look at NPD, (www.npdlink.com) they offer a factory style power booster as well as an aftermarket dual reservoir. We'd also look at Muscle Car Brakes for better stopping performance (www.musclecarbrakes.com/bib6472chevelle.html). Check out the whole site, they have a full Stage III system that will make stopping with drums a new experience.
I was thinking of doing mustang 2 on my 65 fairlane to do air ride. but is just so pricy and of course some B-hole burnt holes in the shock towers to get to grease fittings, can one just put a different angle fitting to access them and do you know of any airtime set up utilizing the stock suspension set up
+mrehzthegreat NPD offers an angled fitting: www.npdlink.com/store/products/grease_fitting_kit_incl_special_wrench_and-106710-1.html We'd recommend contacting ridetech.com for an air-ride spring to suit your needs.
Scarebird has a bracket that allows the use of 1976 Caddy rear rotor and calipers. Here is the link: scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=173 That is as close as I can get you for the time being. Good luck!
I just installed a 450 hp. 347 stroker, with a racing cam in my 1988 Thunderbird, with drum and disk. I also installed a $250 vacuum pump, to feed the booster. I still don't have good brakes. Feels like old manuel brakes. Do I need to upgrade to 4 wheel disk, The brakes were good with the original 5.0 engine. But when I installed the new engine they are nowhere near as good.
It could be that the booster is not receiving good vacuum. We'd check that first. Then check to make sure that the line from the pump is pulling vacuum. We'd also put a vacuum gauge on the pump to see what it is pulling. You'll need about 12 inches of vacuum(ish) to run an 11-inch booster.
OK so I have a 97 s10 Chevy blazer and the lights all work OK until I turn the main lights on then the interior lights go off like the radio still works but the lights are off. Any help works would it be a ground?
LOL we've all been there bear. Usually that is the idler. BUT, we'd recommend a cheap automotive stethoscope and find where the squeak is loudest. This must be done while it is running. VERY DANGEROUS be careful not to get the probe caught in the belt if you choose to do this.
Love your videos , a couple suggestions: Do a few less of the cut left and right , i liked that but it got a little much, and when you link your videos on screen dont bother leaving the url just put either the name of the video or a link; no one will type out a full youtube url. Keep it coming though , love all of your content , certainly a favourite youtube channel
+GamersBar Thanks for the suggestions and kind words Gamer! We appreciate constructive stuff like that a lot. We were trying something new to add a little visual excitement to this type of video. And we saw your point after we cut it together. Live and learn! LOL We added the annotations to the screen the next morning after the upload. For some reason, the upload took a lot longer and Jeff got tired of waiting and went to bed before it was complete.
Drum brakes can be more effective than discs,, just cannot get rid of the heat. And discs require far more pedal effort and fluid displacement than drums. Rear discs are a waste of time on a streeter. Dual circuit is a very good idea. New brakes hoses is near imperative. And yes stainless pipes are trouble, dont bother with them. Yes you can make front drums near as consistent, it just costs a whole lot more!
IMHO if you value the car and anyone IE: friends & family frt disc are just about mandatory other wise a new car with modern brakes could, just flat out brake you. But a good drum setup in good condition will work most of the time. Still upgrade the shoes if possible, buy the best grade not the cheapest.you saved by not buying discs so splurge on good shoes new whl.cyl. fresh fluid,ect...
I did the Kelsey Hayes four piston front disc brake with power booster kit from CSRP on my 1968 Mustang Coupe. The kit came with everything even the longer pedal for power brakes at under $800 and works great. The upgrade from manual drum to power disc is well worth it and so must better to drive especially on cruise night in stop and go driving.
I agree with Jeff. Some of the most "muscular" of muscle cars had drum brakes all around, and they worked FINE in most daily circumstances. I installed the "Brake In A Box" kit front and back on my 68 Torino. These ceramic shoes from Muscle Car Brakes work great... and actually better as they warm up. Upgrading a weekend cruiser to disc is a waste of money. Remember, cars like the Hemi Belvederes, and 427 Galaxies had drums all around. Maybe not a perfect situation for racing, but if shoes are properly adjusted, they stop just fine on the street.
Appreciate hearing about your experience. How have they been holding up in the last five years?
I have a dual reservoir, power assist x 4 drums, drive aggressively, they work decently, but still thinking of upgrading the fronts to disk.
Stainless steel is a very hard steel. When cutting, threading and joining stainless piping it's much harder to get it to seal because it has almost no give. Mild steel has more give to it so it conforms to the surface it's meeting up to quite well. Stainless lines are fantastic IF you can get them to seal. Another problem is that when wrenching the fitting into place you can crush the wheel cylinder connection before you crush the stainless tight enough to keep it from leaking.
Great point!
Speedway has good prices for conversion kits. I'm doing one on my '48 ford 1/2 ton.
Very clear discussion. Do wish you had mentioned parking brakes. Yeah, I know; leave the stick in first or second...
I have just converted to rear disc brakes, the difference is night and day. I'll post a video of the conversion
Integra DIY why rear front is better
I have a 72 duster getting a motor rebuilt going to have around 450 hp front had disc and back are drum would you recommend the disc brakes?
Depends on what you are looking for. For best street performance, go disc front and drum rear.
I have a 1964 Chevelle Malibu/SS that is pretty much all stock. It has the 283 and powerglide transmission not a huge hp machine. Would love to keep the drums because I hate cleaning brake dust from my wheels. But I want a power booster and dual master cylinder. What can be done to keep it cruising safely.
We'd look at NPD, (www.npdlink.com) they offer a factory style power booster as well as an aftermarket dual reservoir. We'd also look at Muscle Car Brakes for better stopping performance (www.musclecarbrakes.com/bib6472chevelle.html). Check out the whole site, they have a full Stage III system that will make stopping with drums a new experience.
I was thinking of doing mustang 2 on my 65 fairlane to do air ride. but is just so pricy and of course some B-hole burnt holes in the shock towers to get to grease fittings, can one just put a different angle fitting to access them and do you know of any airtime set up utilizing the stock suspension set up
+mrehzthegreat NPD offers an angled fitting: www.npdlink.com/store/products/grease_fitting_kit_incl_special_wrench_and-106710-1.html
We'd recommend contacting ridetech.com for an air-ride spring to suit your needs.
great vid guys and congrats on 20k subs!! keep up the great work
Do you really need a dual master cylinder my parking break still works in the rear without any fluid on my 49 pontiac
Nope. You don't need it, but it is a nice insurance policy.
I have a 1968 delta88 I need front dicsbrake what do I need to do to get this done
Scarebird has a bracket that allows the use of 1976 Caddy rear rotor and calipers. Here is the link:
scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=173
That is as close as I can get you for the time being. Good luck!
I just installed a 450 hp. 347 stroker, with a racing cam in my 1988 Thunderbird, with drum and disk. I also installed a $250 vacuum pump, to feed the booster. I still don't have good brakes. Feels like old manuel brakes. Do I need to upgrade to 4 wheel disk, The brakes were good with the original 5.0 engine. But when I installed the new engine they are nowhere near as good.
It could be that the booster is not receiving good vacuum. We'd check that first. Then check to make sure that the line from the pump is pulling vacuum. We'd also put a vacuum gauge on the pump to see what it is pulling. You'll need about 12 inches of vacuum(ish) to run an 11-inch booster.
Anyone know where you can get a good conversion kit for a 67 C10 that won’t break the bank?
Google can get you in the neighborhood. I'd also hit some C10 Facebook groups and some forums and see what they are saying.
OK so I have a 97 s10 Chevy blazer and the lights all work OK until I turn the main lights on then the interior lights go off like the radio still works but the lights are off. Any help works would it be a ground?
Sounds like a light switch issue. We'd recommend replacing it.
OK thanks for the help but stuipd me had the dimmer switch all the way down. What could cause a squeaky serpentine belt?
LOL we've all been there bear. Usually that is the idler. BUT, we'd recommend a cheap automotive stethoscope and find where the squeak is loudest. This must be done while it is running. VERY DANGEROUS be careful not to get the probe caught in the belt if you choose to do this.
+AutoRestoMod Muscle Car Resto and Modifications I can kinda wiggle the idler pulley a lil if that matters
Could be your problem. If it is easy to get to, remove it. the squeak will still be there if it is off the car.
I hated my 4 wheel drum brakes on my chevelle I did a four wheel disc conversion with 11inch rotors it was a good kit and was in my budget
+ps3guy554 Awesome! We have no problem with four wheel disc brakes, in fact our '64 Falcon will be getting discs all around.
Is it *at all possible* to put ABS on a Classic? If so, could you show us?
+mcinkyt We haven't seen a conversion for that on classics. but if it is available we will.
Love your videos , a couple suggestions:
Do a few less of the cut left and right , i liked that but it got a little much, and when you link your videos on screen dont bother leaving the url just put either the name of the video or a link; no one will type out a full youtube url.
Keep it coming though , love all of your content , certainly a favourite youtube channel
+GamersBar Thanks for the suggestions and kind words Gamer! We appreciate constructive stuff like that a lot. We were trying something new to add a little visual excitement to this type of video. And we saw your point after we cut it together. Live and learn! LOL We added the annotations to the screen the next morning after the upload. For some reason, the upload took a lot longer and Jeff got tired of waiting and went to bed before it was complete.
Drum brakes can be more effective than discs,, just cannot get rid of the heat. And discs require far more pedal effort and fluid displacement than drums. Rear discs are a waste of time on a streeter.
Dual circuit is a very good idea. New brakes hoses is near imperative.
And yes stainless pipes are trouble, dont bother with them.
Yes you can make front drums near as consistent, it just costs a whole lot more!
Agree with most of what you said LDN, The part about the stainless lines we'll have to agree to disagree on.
LDN Wholesale what about larger car?.....like the yacht years.....1958-1960
I do want it to look "really spiffy"! That's a T-Shirt right there.
+Sean Donaldson Yes. We just need to find a company to make and send them out! LOL
IMHO if you value the car and anyone IE: friends & family frt disc are just about mandatory other wise a new car with modern brakes could, just flat out brake you. But a good drum setup in good condition will work most of the time. Still upgrade the shoes if possible, buy the best grade not the cheapest.you saved by not buying discs so splurge on good shoes new whl.cyl. fresh fluid,ect...
Disc brakes all the way
The Mustang owner lives in Florida so he's 101 years old and doesn't drive fast enough to need brakes at all. ;)
HA!
This guy looks like James May American cousin
LOL James would be horrified we're sure.
He looks more like Jeremy Clarkson to me.
Whoa... anti lock brakes ?.... the only time I approve of anti lock brakes is in the rain....end of story. Otherwise, they impede the braking process
To each his own. ABS is good on dry and wet. Ice...horrible.
Yes I aggree he did even mention threshold braking which is near impossible with abs.