Very cool ... it is interesting to hear you think aloud. FYI - When you are hovering in a sketch over a line to locate, say the horizontal center, you can hover over a vertical line to locate that midpoint, then return to the open area to set you point. This way you don't have to create a temporary line (I am referring to about 40:00 in to the video). I really like your light boxes, and see that I need to create a library of sketches for various power plugs/sockets. [edit] trick to locate center still holds, but now that I watched the rest of the vid, I see you conly came up 1mm.
I appreciate the info! I pick up little food boys the more and more I play on fusion and honestly need to make a new video showing the updated workflows.
Awesome video!! Thanks! One tip, you can turn the face on and use the combine option. Select the box as the target and the face as the tool. Select cut and "Keep Tools". Click ok and it will cut out the slots you need in the box. You may want to then use the push/pull tool to open the slots up just a hair.
I understand where you're going, and for sure it'd work. Could save a step or two and would help keep them aligned when making dimensions changes. Thanks!
Amazon or Ali. They come in packaging that I cut off. That one specifically was made by ALITOVE and they've always worked well. Component links can be found here - ludicrosity.net/3dp/leds.html (Site's ugly, I'm working on a new layout)
If you convert your Bodies to Components, you can export them all to 1 .step file while preserving each element as an individual object within Bambu Studio.
Great video! I want to change my light box design to front lids and this was a nice solution. Also picked up a couple of fusion tricks I didn’t know. A few thing I would do different: Use a construction line to find the middle point for the tabs. So you don’t have to delete it. More use of extrude to object, just in case you want to change some dimensions later. And combine bodies (bolean)on the to cut out the internal tabs notches.
Since making this video I've switched to making all but the very first extrusion "from object to distance" for exactly that reason! It's not quite making the whole thing parametric, but changing that first extrusion is all that's necessary.
I've just started learning about making LED signs, and have been watching your videos on how tos for them. You do some great work, and I highly appreciate your explanation on why you do certain things and touch upon tips within fusion. That's a great idea, the silver reflective layer to refract the light back, I can't say i've seen (at this moment) anyone else use that method. I was wondering, in a couple of your videos, you have pre-saved "sketches" for your keyholes and mounting points, is it possible to share those so one could add in fusion? Thanks in advance!
@@stevekauffman7555 thank you for the kind words! I need to go through and re-build my template so it's less chaotic. It's on my to-do list, and I'll make an announcement when I make that happen!
Thanks for this tutorial. I learned a lot from you and your process. I do have one problem that I keep running into. When I print the lid my pieces keep separating into pieces. The accent will separate from the face and the lip. Any advice?
They separate in your slicer, or when actually printed? Either way, I'd first ask if they were imported in to an assembly (the question I answered "yes" to). If you're printing directly from my 3MF on Makerworld it has my process profile already built in, but if that was changed or overwritten you may want to collect it directly - th-cam.com/video/Yz9rzAud0vI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Ri6tqZqv3OweIMTH Past there, my profiles depend on having well-tuned material profiles, something I cannot provide for you as they are unique to each spool. I highly encourage running the Pressure Advance ("Flow Dynamics" in Studio) and Flow Ratio tuning for each of your filaments.
@@RevHazlett Thanks for the quick reply. I don't get that question when I import not sure why. My lack of knowledge is really showing. When i import the step file it comes in vertically to the plate and if I hit the O or P the parts fall to the plate. I have to chose a face then separate them into objects to paint. I did go through the video and copy all your parameters to your face process. Sorry for the numerous questions.
@TomRowbotham ok, so a STEP file shouldn't ask the import question (I don't think, at least). Breaking to Objects will completely separate all bodies (or components) out. Separating to Parts should keep their positioning and make them part of an assembly, which is what you want. Or, back in Fusion, you could do everything as components. Something I've never really done much with but it doe smake life easier and it will be a main point in the next video ... if I ever have time to make it 🤣 I might just do a little short to explain all that later tonight.
Amazing video!! I have to say, the BEST lightbox video that I've seen so far in my new 3D hobby adventures. My only disappointment was that you don't have more additional videos like this one, other than the Lightbox Part Deux - Assembly video, but I've watched all of them that you've posted on YT. I just built my first lightbox, using this video, and it turned out amazing. Do you have any other video's or instructions on setting up the hardware for the lightboxes? I purchased the SP110E and the USB Type-C breakout boards for my lightboxes. What screws should I use to install the USB board in the box? Also, the USB plug doesn't match up too well with the hole in the lightbox so I'm going to have to make some small adjustment to get it to fit. Anyway, thanks for the great video's and information on Maker World. Looking forward to watching many more of your future videos. Keep up the great work!
Thank you kindly! I intend on making a more updated video that's not "lets draw a box" but more like the first with "lets use this SVG," since I think that's what most people are doing. For the USB-C Breakout (the one on the red PCB?) I used M3 self-tapping screws. You could use M2.7 if you made the hole a little smaller, but M3's give a nice big contact area on the board to really lock it in. You may want to do a small-scale test of the hole you punch through for them to make sure it's the right tolerance. As for the hole lining up - I'm sorry about that. I've bought two batches of them and they've been close enough to fit from each batch, but you never know with cheap no-name brands 🙄 I'm going to re-build that in my template so it's easier to tell which way is up as well - I've installed them in both directions and they do require a different offset depending on the orientation. For the USB snap-in plugs, I always have to pinch the retaining sides in with some pliers to get them to fit properly. If I make the hole bigger it doesn't stay in very well once fully inserted, any smaller and you can't compress them down all the way to force it through. Always takes a little effort and wiggling.
None are necessary as you want it to have a friction fit. I've printed dozens of boxes using this technique and they all fit together great - if not even _loose_ sometimes when the perimeter geometry is very simple and I have to add a screw to hold them together. That was the intention for the retaining tabs on this box - to remove the need for screws or adhesives. Check out the end of the video for finished examples!
I only wanted the base wall connected to the first 25mm of wall. The 10mm of wall above it is assigned as an accent wall to be printed from a translucent material, then the final 3mm of the base (plus the 2mm of the face) create the last 5mm of height. The idea - if you look at it from the top down once assembled - is 5mm of black, 10mm of translucent (I like using glow-in-the-dark), then 25mm of black down to the very bottom. This accent wall allows light to be cast out the sides of the print as well as the face, putting a bias lighting of sorts around the box on the wall. I think it's pretty. You can do this with changing filaments at layer if you want, I prefer doing them as separate bodies so it's just two clicks to make it a different material.
Had a question. Seems every light box comes out the same when I print. Very nice but extremely thin face. How do I make the picture or face part thicker?
Back in Fusion where I extrude 0.60mm you could do 1.0 or 1.2mm instead. Each layer will add time - particularly for the filament swaps. It will also reduce the amount of light let through, which could be detrimental to the overall effect. Using lights with super high output will consume more power (potentially more than common supplies can provide), and also increase the heat output. You're making a sealed plastic box; if it gets too hot it could start to deform and fall apart. Try a quick test print to see how your filament looks at different thicknesses - makerworld.com/en/models/38049#profileId-36729
Is there a reason why you dont use "components" instead of "bodies" in fushion? I find it very easy to see all the files that way and its makes 1 file instead of multiplebodies if you have alot of small parts
Mostly because at the time I recorded this video I was still very unfamiliar with them, in all honesty. I've since learned about them and do sometimes use them, but for the express purpose of making lightboxes simple groups work well enough. In other folk's workflows where they are exporting one STL per color and are not using 3MF/STEP files, components work much better. That's been a bit of a raging debate in our communities, however I'm not making these as commissions with customers requesting STLs (for one reason or another) so I do them the way I feel gives me the most control when the models reach the slicer; part-aware formats allowing me to tweak individual bodies is something I find useful, so I use them.
@@Calzune I haven't tried, to be honest. For boxes built with organic shapes I just use a countersunk M1.7x5 screw somewhere along the top to pin the pieces together.
silly question from a noob... i made the original box, then saved it as a new file and want to make a square one (200x200). The base has a lock on it. When I change the sketch dimensions, the sketch of the face disappears. Is there a way to keep it and get it to scale the same way easily, or am I stuck making the sketches of the face again? Thanks so much!
I don't think I properly linked all the elements together to be able to parametrically scale it. Not between sketches at least. When I made the square one later on I had to play with it a bit to rescale it properly. I _think_ it was mainly just the locking tabs that had to be moved around. Navigating through the timeline can help a lot with efforts like this.
One of the best tutorials I've seen. Thank you! When I try to make lightboxes with a lot of white, other colours bleed into it a bit. Not a flushing problem, more like strings from the previous color on the printer bed. Any tips for that? (Bambu X1C)
Thanks! Jog back to the "Lightbox Part Deux" video, "Extremely Danger" chapter to see my inelegant solution to whispies. A couple communities have been actively trying to find the 'magic' settings that resolves this issue, to no great repeatable success.
Also - I made this one just recently, first time using FilaCube filament (I usually use eSun, Hatchbox, and Bambu). Not. One. Whispie. makerworld.com/en/models/86139#profileId-92008
@@RevHazlett appreciate the reply! I tried pausing after layers to manually remove the whispers but that is labor intensive and kind of ruins the set it and forget it of the Bambu printers. I’ll look into the other video and filament.
There's a separate video discussing it in my channel with some really good discussion in the comments. In a nutshell: Studio and other Prusa forks cannot interpret STEP so the convert it to a mesh on import at basically the "highest resolution" the slicer will reasonably work with (I believe it's a component of arc resolution values). Of course if you already have a mesh (3MF, STL, etc) that resolution is already set at creation and the slicer will work with whatever it's given. My problem was using File -> Export in Fusion does not give you the mesh definition settings, so a 3MF exports as a default medium quality. That resulted in more G1 than G2/3 arcs. A high quality 3MF from Fusion is roughly the same as an imported STEP though, so they are _basically_ the same at that point. 3MF has benefits - volumetric data, body labels, color info, etc - but that extra data comes at the cost of for size for the actual mesh as compared to the raw math of STEP files. My basic rule - if it's only a few bodies that I need to address individually (color, print settings, etc) I go STEP. If I need to body names or it's a very busy model I go high quality 3MF.
I use eSun almost exclusively (right nexus of quality, price, and availability). Their Black PLA+ and White (not "Cool White") PLA+ get used the most. The accent on the walls is an ancient spool of Hatchbox Glow-in-the-Dark Green PLA. The silver reflective layer is eSun Metallic Silver PLA, by far the brightest and shiniest silver I've found.
No real reason in particular. Historically my printers/slicers have used XY 0,0 as origin so I mentally see the build plate as entirely positives. Knowing the center of that helps for radii and center-bound rectangles and such. In many cases of I'm moving a point to a position instead of another point it's helpful to not have to adjust for being spilt across both positive and negative XY.
This video is amazing. One of the best I've watched regarding this topic. Lots of light bulb moments. Would you be willing to share that fusion file that has those pre-drawn items; like hole notch and power items? Thanks in advance. I'm so glad I found this vide. Enjoy your day.
@@RevHazlett I just finished making your design by following along with your video and it came out awesome. The creating point is a game changer on how I was aligning things. I've been using fusion for the past two months and this video elevated me to another level. Thank you for the valuable workflow and techniques.
@@RevHazlett was able to see your sketches in Fusion and copied them to a clean fusion file for how you copy and paste in to your projects. Thanks very much! Do you have a Patreon page?
When you do your wall thickness calculations - 0.42 * ? this is not an accurate representation of actual printing. In the slicer, your line width is 0.42 BUT for multiple adjoining lines (like what happens to create total wall thickness), those lines usually overlap by the default setting of 25%. In other words, when actually printed side by side, 0.42 * 2 is NOT 0.84 total width. The Gcode generates the calculation of 0.42 * 1.75 (0.42 * 2 - 25% overlap) for an actual total width of 0.735 or 0.74 rounding up. This may not seem important but for some precision pieces it will matter.
I've never heard this before, nor honestly seen evidence of it. I'll look to see if I can replicate what you are describing but would appreciate any documentation you have that shows these calculations!
@@RevHazlett In Prusaslicer (I could not find it in BS), in the “Advanced” section of “Printer Settings” there’s a section “Overlap” and the setting is “Infill / Perimeters”. My numbers were off because the PS default for that is now 15%; it used to be 25%
@@ozzytheartist4780 the only exposed value I'm familiar with is in relation to wall/infill overlap, describing how much the infill lines will draw in to a wall line to ensure they are fully attached. I'll have to dig to see about a value for walls overlapping walls. At least in memory from Cura and current working knowledge from Orca / BS I haven't seen wall overlaps. Either way I appreciate the info! Always good to double check and make sure!
Ah, okay, my bad. That makes sense…I misinterpreted that. However, the print lines do overlap. They have to to have structural integrity to the printed piece. That overlap may just be achieved by the ‘squish’ but I wonder if that 0.42 line width setting incorporates the amount of squish or not? Crap! I’m heading down a rabbit hole 😂😜
Well done! Thanks for a great tutorial. Really new to 3D and I learned a lot watching. Keep up the good work and sharing.
THAT IS SOOO COOOOOLL omg. I can't believe that's 3d printed???!!!!
It's a really fun hobby!
@@RevHazlett just liked and subbed
Excellent video. I don't have that much experience with Fusion but I was able to create a similar box "fairly" easily after watching. Thanks!
That was my goal, glad to hear it worked!
Congratulations and thanks for this enlightening 1 hour video! Really nice paced and tone made it easy to follow though. Thanks for sharing!
@@PixelArtSound thank you for the kind words!
Very cool ... it is interesting to hear you think aloud. FYI - When you are hovering in a sketch over a line to locate, say the horizontal center, you can hover over a vertical line to locate that midpoint, then return to the open area to set you point. This way you don't have to create a temporary line (I am referring to about 40:00 in to the video). I really like your light boxes, and see that I need to create a library of sketches for various power plugs/sockets. [edit] trick to locate center still holds, but now that I watched the rest of the vid, I see you conly came up 1mm.
I appreciate the info! I pick up little food boys the more and more I play on fusion and honestly need to make a new video showing the updated workflows.
Awesome video!! Thanks! One tip, you can turn the face on and use the combine option. Select the box as the target and the face as the tool. Select cut and "Keep Tools". Click ok and it will cut out the slots you need in the box. You may want to then use the push/pull tool to open the slots up just a hair.
I understand where you're going, and for sure it'd work. Could save a step or two and would help keep them aligned when making dimensions changes. Thanks!
This has to be one of the best step by step tutorials yet. Great info! Where do you get the SP110e boards from?
Amazon or Ali. They come in packaging that I cut off. That one specifically was made by ALITOVE and they've always worked well. Component links can be found here - ludicrosity.net/3dp/leds.html
(Site's ugly, I'm working on a new layout)
If you convert your Bodies to Components, you can export them all to 1 .step file while preserving each element as an individual object within Bambu Studio.
Yup, I've learned that since this video! I'm still really bad about using them though 😅
@@RevHazlett 😁❤️
lining the box as well as the surface where you want to fasten the LED strip with aluminum tape helps ahesion and works as a reflector.
Great video! I want to change my light box design to front lids and this was a nice solution. Also picked up a couple of fusion tricks I didn’t know.
A few thing I would do different: Use a construction line to find the middle point for the tabs. So you don’t have to delete it.
More use of extrude to object, just in case you want to change some dimensions later.
And combine bodies (bolean)on the to cut out the internal tabs notches.
Since making this video I've switched to making all but the very first extrusion "from object to distance" for exactly that reason! It's not quite making the whole thing parametric, but changing that first extrusion is all that's necessary.
I've just started learning about making LED signs, and have been watching your videos on how tos for them. You do some great work, and I highly appreciate your explanation on why you do certain things and touch upon tips within fusion. That's a great idea, the silver reflective layer to refract the light back, I can't say i've seen (at this moment) anyone else use that method. I was wondering, in a couple of your videos, you have pre-saved "sketches" for your keyholes and mounting points, is it possible to share those so one could add in fusion? Thanks in advance!
@@stevekauffman7555 thank you for the kind words! I need to go through and re-build my template so it's less chaotic. It's on my to-do list, and I'll make an announcement when I make that happen!
Got it published earlier today! th-cam.com/video/13vtPfgKxbk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ILnmk5CQizgkJMdU
great job, brother, keep the work!
Thanks!
Thanks for this tutorial. I learned a lot from you and your process. I do have one problem that I keep running into. When I print the lid my pieces keep separating into pieces. The accent will separate from the face and the lip. Any advice?
They separate in your slicer, or when actually printed?
Either way, I'd first ask if they were imported in to an assembly (the question I answered "yes" to).
If you're printing directly from my 3MF on Makerworld it has my process profile already built in, but if that was changed or overwritten you may want to collect it directly - th-cam.com/video/Yz9rzAud0vI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Ri6tqZqv3OweIMTH
Past there, my profiles depend on having well-tuned material profiles, something I cannot provide for you as they are unique to each spool. I highly encourage running the Pressure Advance ("Flow Dynamics" in Studio) and Flow Ratio tuning for each of your filaments.
@@RevHazlett Thanks for the quick reply. I don't get that question when I import not sure why. My lack of knowledge is really showing. When i import the step file it comes in vertically to the plate and if I hit the O or P the parts fall to the plate. I have to chose a face then separate them into objects to paint. I did go through the video and copy all your parameters to your face process. Sorry for the numerous questions.
@TomRowbotham ok, so a STEP file shouldn't ask the import question (I don't think, at least). Breaking to Objects will completely separate all bodies (or components) out. Separating to Parts should keep their positioning and make them part of an assembly, which is what you want.
Or, back in Fusion, you could do everything as components. Something I've never really done much with but it doe smake life easier and it will be a main point in the next video ... if I ever have time to make it 🤣
I might just do a little short to explain all that later tonight.
Great info and video! UH 1 thing..fill-it not fillet as in fish or meat.
Oh, I know. My brain is trash though and I'm usually rather tired when making videos 😂
Any change to get the 5V and hook keyhole already done files?
I'm sorry, I don't understand. Are you looking for the template I started off from?
Amazing video!! I have to say, the BEST lightbox video that I've seen so far in my new 3D hobby adventures. My only disappointment was that you don't have more additional videos like this one, other than the Lightbox Part Deux - Assembly video, but I've watched all of them that you've posted on YT. I just built my first lightbox, using this video, and it turned out amazing. Do you have any other video's or instructions on setting up the hardware for the lightboxes? I purchased the SP110E and the USB Type-C breakout boards for my lightboxes. What screws should I use to install the USB board in the box? Also, the USB plug doesn't match up too well with the hole in the lightbox so I'm going to have to make some small adjustment to get it to fit. Anyway, thanks for the great video's and information on Maker World. Looking forward to watching many more of your future videos. Keep up the great work!
Thank you kindly!
I intend on making a more updated video that's not "lets draw a box" but more like the first with "lets use this SVG," since I think that's what most people are doing.
For the USB-C Breakout (the one on the red PCB?) I used M3 self-tapping screws. You could use M2.7 if you made the hole a little smaller, but M3's give a nice big contact area on the board to really lock it in. You may want to do a small-scale test of the hole you punch through for them to make sure it's the right tolerance.
As for the hole lining up - I'm sorry about that. I've bought two batches of them and they've been close enough to fit from each batch, but you never know with cheap no-name brands 🙄
I'm going to re-build that in my template so it's easier to tell which way is up as well - I've installed them in both directions and they do require a different offset depending on the orientation.
For the USB snap-in plugs, I always have to pinch the retaining sides in with some pliers to get them to fit properly. If I make the hole bigger it doesn't stay in very well once fully inserted, any smaller and you can't compress them down all the way to force it through. Always takes a little effort and wiggling.
did you have to take into account the any clearances for the lid and main box?
None are necessary as you want it to have a friction fit. I've printed dozens of boxes using this technique and they all fit together great - if not even _loose_ sometimes when the perimeter geometry is very simple and I have to add a screw to hold them together. That was the intention for the retaining tabs on this box - to remove the need for screws or adhesives.
Check out the end of the video for finished examples!
At 9:35ish why did you turn that off so it wouldn’t join? It stays joined forever anyways. That’s not the top. I don’t get it.
I only wanted the base wall connected to the first 25mm of wall. The 10mm of wall above it is assigned as an accent wall to be printed from a translucent material, then the final 3mm of the base (plus the 2mm of the face) create the last 5mm of height.
The idea - if you look at it from the top down once assembled - is 5mm of black, 10mm of translucent (I like using glow-in-the-dark), then 25mm of black down to the very bottom.
This accent wall allows light to be cast out the sides of the print as well as the face, putting a bias lighting of sorts around the box on the wall. I think it's pretty.
You can do this with changing filaments at layer if you want, I prefer doing them as separate bodies so it's just two clicks to make it a different material.
Had a question. Seems every light box comes out the same when I print. Very nice but extremely thin face. How do I make the picture or face part thicker?
Back in Fusion where I extrude 0.60mm you could do 1.0 or 1.2mm instead. Each layer will add time - particularly for the filament swaps. It will also reduce the amount of light let through, which could be detrimental to the overall effect. Using lights with super high output will consume more power (potentially more than common supplies can provide), and also increase the heat output. You're making a sealed plastic box; if it gets too hot it could start to deform and fall apart.
Try a quick test print to see how your filament looks at different thicknesses - makerworld.com/en/models/38049#profileId-36729
Is there a reason why you dont use "components" instead of "bodies" in fushion? I find it very easy to see all the files that way and its makes 1 file instead of multiplebodies if you have alot of small parts
Mostly because at the time I recorded this video I was still very unfamiliar with them, in all honesty. I've since learned about them and do sometimes use them, but for the express purpose of making lightboxes simple groups work well enough.
In other folk's workflows where they are exporting one STL per color and are not using 3MF/STEP files, components work much better. That's been a bit of a raging debate in our communities, however I'm not making these as commissions with customers requesting STLs (for one reason or another) so I do them the way I feel gives me the most control when the models reach the slicer; part-aware formats allowing me to tweak individual bodies is something I find useful, so I use them.
@@RevHazlett okej thank you for the answer! I have another question: how do you create those small locking tabs on round surfaces?
@@Calzune I haven't tried, to be honest. For boxes built with organic shapes I just use a countersunk M1.7x5 screw somewhere along the top to pin the pieces together.
silly question from a noob... i made the original box, then saved it as a new file and want to make a square one (200x200). The base has a lock on it. When I change the sketch dimensions, the sketch of the face disappears. Is there a way to keep it and get it to scale the same way easily, or am I stuck making the sketches of the face again?
Thanks so much!
I don't think I properly linked all the elements together to be able to parametrically scale it. Not between sketches at least.
When I made the square one later on I had to play with it a bit to rescale it properly. I _think_ it was mainly just the locking tabs that had to be moved around. Navigating through the timeline can help a lot with efforts like this.
One of the best tutorials I've seen. Thank you! When I try to make lightboxes with a lot of white, other colours bleed into it a bit. Not a flushing problem, more like strings from the previous color on the printer bed. Any tips for that? (Bambu X1C)
Thanks! Jog back to the "Lightbox Part Deux" video, "Extremely Danger" chapter to see my inelegant solution to whispies.
A couple communities have been actively trying to find the 'magic' settings that resolves this issue, to no great repeatable success.
Also - I made this one just recently, first time using FilaCube filament (I usually use eSun, Hatchbox, and Bambu).
Not. One. Whispie.
makerworld.com/en/models/86139#profileId-92008
@@RevHazlett appreciate the reply! I tried pausing after layers to manually remove the whispers but that is labor intensive and kind of ruins the set it and forget it of the Bambu printers. I’ll look into the other video and filament.
Is it possible the difference in print time (STEP vs 3mf) due to the step invoking the ARC (G2-G3 Arc or Circle move)?
There's a separate video discussing it in my channel with some really good discussion in the comments. In a nutshell: Studio and other Prusa forks cannot interpret STEP so the convert it to a mesh on import at basically the "highest resolution" the slicer will reasonably work with (I believe it's a component of arc resolution values).
Of course if you already have a mesh (3MF, STL, etc) that resolution is already set at creation and the slicer will work with whatever it's given.
My problem was using File -> Export in Fusion does not give you the mesh definition settings, so a 3MF exports as a default medium quality. That resulted in more G1 than G2/3 arcs. A high quality 3MF from Fusion is roughly the same as an imported STEP though, so they are _basically_ the same at that point.
3MF has benefits - volumetric data, body labels, color info, etc - but that extra data comes at the cost of for size for the actual mesh as compared to the raw math of STEP files.
My basic rule - if it's only a few bodies that I need to address individually (color, print settings, etc) I go STEP. If I need to body names or it's a very busy model I go high quality 3MF.
What filament are you using for the white translucent?
I use eSun almost exclusively (right nexus of quality, price, and availability). Their Black PLA+ and White (not "Cool White") PLA+ get used the most. The accent on the walls is an ancient spool of Hatchbox Glow-in-the-Dark Green PLA. The silver reflective layer is eSun Metallic Silver PLA, by far the brightest and shiniest silver I've found.
Do you have a link for all the parts you are using?
They're all linked in the project description on makerworld.
Why do you make a Point at the beginning, instead of using the center point of the origin?
No real reason in particular. Historically my printers/slicers have used XY 0,0 as origin so I mentally see the build plate as entirely positives. Knowing the center of that helps for radii and center-bound rectangles and such.
In many cases of I'm moving a point to a position instead of another point it's helpful to not have to adjust for being spilt across both positive and negative XY.
@@RevHazlettThank you for your reply!
This video is amazing. One of the best I've watched regarding this topic. Lots of light bulb moments. Would you be willing to share that fusion file that has those pre-drawn items; like hole notch and power items? Thanks in advance. I'm so glad I found this vide. Enjoy your day.
Hey, thanks! I added the F3D's to the makerworld publication. I warn you though - my timeline may cause seizures in Fusion professionals! 😂
@@RevHazlett I just finished making your design by following along with your video and it came out awesome. The creating point is a game changer on how I was aligning things. I've been using fusion for the past two months and this video elevated me to another level. Thank you for the valuable workflow and techniques.
@@RevHazlett was able to see your sketches in Fusion and copied them to a clean fusion file for how you copy and paste in to your projects. Thanks very much! Do you have a Patreon page?
@guybaryo3244 I do not, no. Just doing this for fun 😁
I appreciate the thought though!
@@guybaryo3244 How were you able to do this, just starting and cant seem to see how to search for another users public sketches
When you do your wall thickness calculations - 0.42 * ? this is not an accurate representation of actual printing. In the slicer, your line width is 0.42 BUT for multiple adjoining lines (like what happens to create total wall thickness), those lines usually overlap by the default setting of 25%. In other words, when actually printed side by side, 0.42 * 2 is NOT 0.84 total width. The Gcode generates the calculation of 0.42 * 1.75 (0.42 * 2 - 25% overlap) for an actual total width of 0.735 or 0.74 rounding up. This may not seem important but for some precision pieces it will matter.
I've never heard this before, nor honestly seen evidence of it.
I'll look to see if I can replicate what you are describing but would appreciate any documentation you have that shows these calculations!
@@RevHazlett In Prusaslicer (I could not find it in BS), in the “Advanced” section of “Printer Settings” there’s a section “Overlap” and the setting is “Infill / Perimeters”. My numbers were off because the PS default for that is now 15%; it used to be 25%
@@ozzytheartist4780 the only exposed value I'm familiar with is in relation to wall/infill overlap, describing how much the infill lines will draw in to a wall line to ensure they are fully attached. I'll have to dig to see about a value for walls overlapping walls. At least in memory from Cura and current working knowledge from Orca / BS I haven't seen wall overlaps.
Either way I appreciate the info! Always good to double check and make sure!
Ah, okay, my bad. That makes sense…I misinterpreted that. However, the print lines do overlap. They have to to have structural integrity to the printed piece. That overlap may just be achieved by the ‘squish’ but I wonder if that 0.42 line width setting incorporates the amount of squish or not? Crap! I’m heading down a rabbit hole 😂😜
I don’t understand why you’re using math. Make the bottom a 2mm line everyone else does.
:w: