Clear and easy to understand instructions. I like when he simulates the problem of what might happen, like the hazard switch with the spring that could go flying.
thank you i just opened up one to clean contacts could not figure out where that high beam contact went .. scratched my head and looked you up THANK YOU !! I couldn't find any help at ford no pictures ,nothing ..,,thank you
I can't thank you enough for making this video. I have the OEM of this for many years. I replaced it long ago with one I bought from NAPA, but I never threw away the OEM. I took it apart to observe why it failed but the two white plastic peices popped out and I couldn't figure out how to put it back together. Not until I saw this video.
I know this is an old video, but thank you for making it. I just cleaned out the switch for my 1996 Thunderbird. I just wish there was a way to clean inside the knob on the handle. I tried pulling it of, but was afraid of breaking it.
Ahhh thank you..... I don't know how those come off sorry. This switch I repaired was so many years ago and it's still working in my old motorhome.. I am a man who knows his limitations... but sometimes I figure..." it ain't gonna get any.more broke" thanks for the reply.
I was able to find a new one on ebay for $20 and installation is a breeze. I held onto the old one, figuring I could take it apart and repair it and lo and behold, your video pops up! Now I have a back-up!
Probably the best repair video I've seen. Saved myself $75 on Autozone/$30 online and had fun doing it. Unfortunately, my hazard spring did fly off on the third time I took it apart to rec-lean...never found it but with a little effort I can get the hazard button up and the lights blinking. Funny thing, now my door lock works great again and there is no message on my dash after cleaning this and putting it back together. For those who asked, the mystery spring sits int the curved hollow at the bottom of the lever where the other two legs extend outward. Maybe its a spare! Hey Steve, maybe you can do some guitar videos also! John
Very good video with explanation. I was searching for this exact thing. The mysterious spring was the part that was throwing me off. I couldn’t tell where it went or what it did. I took mine apart because the signals didn’t cancel. My canceler had broken off. When I put it back together the turn signals don’t blink. I’ll pull it off tomorrow and see what’s wrong. Thanks for the video.
Great video. The switch on our ‘97 Explorer often buzzes loudly when signaling, and now the washer pump won’t activate. I need to look for videos on how to get the switch out of the steering column, though. The one closest to my car that I watched so far wasn’t much help and clumsily done. Thanks for insight into what’s inside the switch, and maybe needing 3 hands to reassemble it 😅
It's easy to take out..2 torx screws on the steering wheel.. you do have to remove e the shroud around the wheel.. The switches are cheap.at rock auto..look for manufacture close outs on items like the multifunction switch.. I think there like 20 bucks or something.
@@1pilotsteve yup. I found another video on removing the switch, but he struggled a bit with the shrouds, esp. the top one. I was afraid he’d break them… he got pretty vigorous yanking them. The 2 year (Chinese?) switch at rock.auto is $23 or so, and the 3 year warranty one (WVE brand) claiming quality plastic and contact composition is around $57. My mechanic said something about $240 if he replaces it, but he usually uses Motorcraft parts (likely “rebuilt” for a ‘97). I’d only have to wait less than an hour for him at his shop, but with discounts it’d likely end up around $300. But we can’t be without the car long, and if I run into glitches along the way tearing it down for cleaning (I use fine sanding “Q” tip sticks and DeoxIT cleaner/protectant) and reassembly, well, that worries me. It’s my usual method to tear things down and clean and repair, but as much as I hate spending money on something I now know I can fix, I may just buy the WVE one instead. In a time pinch I’ll have to take it to my guy. He is good (one of the top-rated ASE mechanics in the USA), but the best ain’t cheap.
I just did this on a 2007 ford ranger. It was similar but it was press fit together. Instead of the two haves bing put together with the torque screws, plastic clips all the way around, Swiss Army knife can opener was very useful;) Also the hazard set up was way tricky. There is a piece of spring metal used as the catch. When I disassembled it was just laying loose inside. Took a little trial and erro to find how it goes back. But thanks to your video I new I could fix my issue, which was that the relay for the signal lights was clicking and switching all the time even when the truck was not running. The relay is good. Once I unplugged the switch it stopped clicking. Glad there was a free fix, parts in Brazil are expensive. Thanks, But If I can make a suggestion, next video shoot it sideways.
No...sorry... that part of the switch does not appear to come appart. If you are in the US... look up the part on the rockauto.com Web site. They have overstocked switches for 25.00 because ford made so many of them... check that out or your local youpull junkyard. Good luck
Thanks for the very thorough and helpful video! I just cleaned the switch on my 1994 Bounder and will put it back in tomorrow. Hopefully, it does the trick.
Suggestion: to clean off the copper salts (green) and much of the grease, do what I just did. Place the parts (all BUT the cover part with spring, spring under the hazard switch, the return plastic, and the long handle) into distilled white vinegar (~5%) for several hours (overnight). Pat off and allow to air dry. The acetic acid in the vinegar will dissolve most ofd the residue without damaging either the plastic or the small springs inside those parts. No need to rinse off the parts because the distilled vinegar (acetic acid) will evaporate quickly leaving little to no residue. You still have to use sandpaper to remove the copper oxide tarnish, but that only takes 15 minutes or so, almost as long as it takes me to type this. I am a chemist, and as very few plastics are damaged by dilute acetic acid, I figured this would be fine. I did not put the other parts in because I did not care about any grease trhere and there are few contacts there to worry about. The small electrical connector (the company my mom worked for in the 1970's used to make the plastic parts for a company named AMP) would be a huge pain to clean, but I have done those in my past (remove each pin, clean up, put back in the right way, repeat).
Great video! My high beams on my 98 Mustang have not worked for years - but all other functions work. I'm still researching possibilities, but it's nice I can give the switch a go myself. Even if it does not fix it, I won't be out the $ for taking a look! Thx!
Great video! But you forgot to show the washer/wiper circuit in the handle, wich i have problems with. I opend the cap at the outer end and found the circuit coverd in grease. I cleaned it but and the washer started working but not the wipers. Can i do something more?
Thanks mg my fuse for my brake light has been blowing every time I hithe brakes would work some times been racking my brain now for weeks and thus is what the problem was thank you so much so helpful been looking on utube for ever for this explaination
Great video bud! Thanks! Hardest part is getting that assembly OUT of the steering column. So many screws and different heads. My washer fluid switch, after being activated, won't turn off. Not sure this will fix it because there aren't any contacts like for the other functions but I'll install it tomorrow and see. I also shot some cleaner into the end where the potentiometer is hoping it will clean that connect.
I have this same problem for me '99 Ford Expedition, the front washer will not go off once activated. (In reality, mine eventually goes off, after a VERY long time (sometimes 1/3 of the tank.) I have the benefit of the paper and electronic wiring diagrams. (The original paper diagram is unfortunately wrong here, but the electronic one appears corrected. The paper diagram reflected incorrectly the different switch (in terms of the washer and wiper) of the '97 and '98 Ford Expedition (also the F150's, 250's, 350's) and many other vehicles. But each vehicle seems to have switched over at different times between '99 and 2000. (The older ones have a red flash switch, the new ones, a black flasher switch with red triangle, or no markings). Anyway, the "problem" seems to not be easily fixed for the washer sticking on. It is not a contact problem. I have a multi-meter and ohm tested the contacts and resistance of the switch. The way this works, the multi-function puts out different levels of ohm resistance (voltage drop) on two signals depending on what is activated on the wipers. The GEM then reads those two signals (which as essentially encoded in a fairly trivial table sort of way) and then controls the wiper motors to wipe at OFF, LO, HI, INTERMITTENT and the intermittent wipe speed, as well as sprayer on/off. (There is also an input from the tank, which has a low water level cutoff, but since it sprays, and won't shut off, that is not the problem.) The problem IS: that the OFF level resistor appears to be shot. That is in the switch. I believe it is in the little circuit board on the top (back) of the clam shell "top" that is removed in this video and put aside, and then eventually put back on and screwed back down with the Torx T10's. When OFF (washer button released), the switch puts out a very low resistance, too low. If holding the switch and letting it hang by the turn signal arm, and starring at the "rear" connectors to the vehcile, the top connector hole nearest the signal arm is the one with the washer motor control signals. The top far right, and the top middle pins, 530 and 993 respectively. When ON (buttom pushed), these are supposed to be closed (no resistance, essentially 0 ohms. 5 or less is OK). When OFF (button released), these are supposed to provide 100K ohm resistance. (On a volt meter, use the 100X or 200K setting). It should read close to 100K ohm (e.g. probably 100. 90 is OK. 80 probably still works. After that gets dicey. Mine only puts out 26K of resistance, too little.) So what happens is when ON you charge up that signals to full power voltage 12V. And when OFF, the high resistance resistor is supposed block flow, but on mine, it is only at 1/4 of the required resistance. So, it leaks a lot of current and allows the voltage to stay high (close to 12V) for too long, and the GEM thus thinks the button is still pushed (when it is not), and still runs the washer. Eventually, the lower resistance resistor finally lowers the voltage below the GEM cutoff (not specified in the manual) and the GEM turns off the washer, after a long time. So, the resistor is shot. I believe it is on the very small PCB board in the clam shell lid. You can see it when looking at the switch from the lever side. The wires from the lever appear in the middle, and there are two silver contacts on each side of the wires. The green back there is a printed circuit board (PCB), and it likely has the resistors. (Otherwise, there are inside of the stick itself.) The stick has a cover on the back. It can be removed with a fine blade screw driver pushed in on the small skinny end at the base of the arm. Push hard, and then pry toward the drivers arm to the contacts, driver blade toward the arm end, and the door will pop off. But all that is in there are the wires, and the end of a metal support arm that holds the arms wiper "twisty" elements together/on. No idea if that can even be released. (it went together somehow, but I think it is press fit on, and not really designed to be disassembled.) So that is when I gave up, and bought a new one.
mine is having an issue with engaging the windshield washer pump. I have to wiggle the switch to just the right place then it comes on strong...seems obvious a bad contact. Everything else works fine. I don't think he even mention the washer fluid part of the switch.
Thanks for the video! It does seem that you skipped a step which is after cleaning the corrosion off, you did not put fresh dielectric grease on the metal contacts and the plastic mechanisms' wear points. I'm sure it works fine without it for now, but it was there for a reason, to allow smoother movement and to slow down wear and return of corrosion. I came to this video for a different reason, that a long time ago I had some reason to pull the cap and screw off the stalk end, then when I put it back together I had lost the detent for the wiper delay, which gives it that notchy feel when you rotate it. At the time I didn't see that a pin on a spring had flew out of it when I opened it, didn't know what I had done wrong and lived with it like that, because loss of that detent doesn't stop it from working if you pay attention to how often the wiper wipes in relation to how much you turn it, but a few days ago I found that spring with a pin on the end lying on my floorboard so I then realized why I lost that wiper detent feature. Unfortunately that stalk end is also loaded with grease so it will be difficult to see inside, where to place that springed pin, but recently it became more of a priority because my right turn signal started making that common buzzing noise and intermittently doesn't activate the right turn signal. Your video will be helpful to take it apart, so thanks again. FYI the video would have allowed seeing more detail up close if you had rotated your phone so that it was in landscape recording mode.
I have mine apart now, and there was a spring lying loose inside. I found your video while searching for reference to see where it goes. But that spring is not in your video. Great tutorial by the way.
Great video. Was very curious what they are like inside. My issue is a little different. My right turn signal will come on automatically without moving the turn signal arm. Only the right side and very intermittently. Do you think cleaning it will help or the switch needs replacement? I was also thinking it may be the multifunction reply. Anyone experience the same issue and find a solution?
is it like this one? with the torx bits? I had the same symptom....right signal was intermittent... I had to kinda hold it half way. Try to take it apart and clean all the contacts until their polished shiny copper and then put it back together. good luck
@@1pilotsteve yuup same as this! I opened it and it was not that dirty then i cleaned it. i noticed that my right/left signal contact is losing the copper(bronze color) but sometimes it would work.... i am so clueless what it is the problem... is it the relay, fuse or i am losing contact???
Clear and easy to understand instructions. I like when he simulates the problem of what might happen, like the hazard switch with the spring that could go flying.
thank you i just opened up one to clean contacts could not figure out where that high beam contact went .. scratched my head and looked you up THANK YOU !! I couldn't find any help at ford no pictures ,nothing ..,,thank you
You are welcome so it's working now?
@@1pilotsteve it will be. now that i know where to put that one "spare piece " thx great video ..
No.worries
I can't thank you enough for making this video. I have the OEM of this for many years. I replaced it long ago with one I bought from NAPA, but I never threw away the OEM. I took it apart to observe why it failed but the two white plastic peices popped out and I couldn't figure out how to put it back together. Not until I saw this video.
great job man!
I know this is an old video, but thank you for making it. I just cleaned out the switch for my 1996 Thunderbird. I just wish there was a way to clean inside the knob on the handle. I tried pulling it of, but was afraid of breaking it.
Ahhh thank you..... I don't know how those come off sorry. This switch I repaired was so many years ago and it's still working in my old motorhome.. I am a man who knows his limitations... but sometimes I figure..." it ain't gonna get any.more broke" thanks for the reply.
@@1pilotstevedid you add any dielectric grease or white lithium grease to the copper contacts
I was able to find a new one on ebay for $20 and installation is a breeze. I held onto the old one, figuring I could take it apart and repair it and lo and behold, your video pops up! Now I have a back-up!
73challenger5031 nice
Probably the best repair video I've seen. Saved myself $75 on Autozone/$30 online and had fun doing it. Unfortunately, my hazard spring did fly off on the third time I took it apart to rec-lean...never found it but with a little effort I can get the hazard button up and the lights blinking. Funny thing, now my door lock works great again and there is no message on my dash after cleaning this and putting it back together. For those who asked, the mystery spring sits int the curved hollow at the bottom of the lever where the other two legs extend outward. Maybe its a spare!
Hey Steve, maybe you can do some guitar videos also!
John
Spot on tutorial! This was exactly what I needed to do. Worked perfectly and we can get back to planning a road trip again. Thank you!!
Very good video with explanation. I was searching for this exact thing. The mysterious spring was the part that was throwing me off. I couldn’t tell where it went or what it did. I took mine apart because the signals didn’t cancel. My canceler had broken off. When I put it back together the turn signals don’t blink. I’ll pull it off tomorrow and see what’s wrong. Thanks for the video.
good luck
Great video. The switch on our ‘97 Explorer often buzzes loudly when signaling, and now the washer pump won’t activate. I need to look for videos on how to get the switch out of the steering column, though. The one closest to my car that I watched so far wasn’t much help and clumsily done. Thanks for insight into what’s inside the switch, and maybe needing 3 hands to reassemble it 😅
It's easy to take out..2 torx screws on the steering wheel.. you do have to remove e the shroud around the wheel.. The switches are cheap.at rock auto..look for manufacture close outs on items like the multifunction switch.. I think there like 20 bucks or something.
@@1pilotsteve yup. I found another video on removing the switch, but he struggled a bit with the shrouds, esp. the top one. I was afraid he’d break them… he got pretty vigorous yanking them. The 2 year (Chinese?) switch at rock.auto is $23 or so, and the 3 year warranty one (WVE brand) claiming quality plastic and contact composition is around $57. My mechanic said something about $240 if he replaces it, but he usually uses Motorcraft parts (likely “rebuilt” for a ‘97). I’d only have to wait less than an hour for him at his shop, but with discounts it’d likely end up around $300. But we can’t be without the car long, and if I run into glitches along the way tearing it down for cleaning (I use fine sanding “Q” tip sticks and DeoxIT cleaner/protectant) and reassembly, well, that worries me. It’s my usual method to tear things down and clean and repair, but as much as I hate spending money on something I now know I can fix, I may just buy the WVE one instead. In a time pinch I’ll have to take it to my guy. He is good (one of the top-rated ASE mechanics in the USA), but the best ain’t cheap.
I just did this on a 2007 ford ranger. It was similar but it was press fit together. Instead of the two haves bing put together with the torque screws, plastic clips all the way around, Swiss Army knife can opener was very useful;)
Also the hazard set up was way tricky. There is a piece of spring metal used as the catch. When I disassembled it was just laying loose inside. Took a little trial and erro to find how it goes back.
But thanks to your video I new I could fix my issue, which was that the relay for the signal lights was clicking and switching all the time even when the truck was not running. The relay is good. Once I unplugged the switch it stopped clicking.
Glad there was a free fix, parts in Brazil are expensive.
Thanks,
But If I can make a suggestion, next video shoot it sideways.
Dan Waters thanks Dan
. you are right..rookie video maker here.. glad it worked out for you sir.. Thanks for the reply..
Any idea how to open the wiper part. My wipers won't turn off once engaged...I have to shut the ignition off to stop them.
No...sorry... that part of the switch does not appear to come appart.
If you are in the US... look up the part on the rockauto.com Web site.
They have overstocked switches for 25.00 because ford made so many of them... check that out or your local youpull junkyard.
Good luck
Thanks that is what I figured. Makes me wonder how they put it together.
Dan Waters I replaced switch and won't blink gust hasered lite only
Thanks for the very thorough and helpful video! I just cleaned the switch on my 1994 Bounder and will put it back in tomorrow. Hopefully, it does the trick.
let me know how it goes... there will be lots of gunk inside...after you clean and polish the contacts. ..a little lithium grease will help as well..
Suggestion: to clean off the copper salts (green) and much of the grease, do what I just did. Place the parts (all BUT the cover part with spring, spring under the hazard switch, the return plastic, and the long handle) into distilled white vinegar (~5%) for several hours (overnight). Pat off and allow to air dry. The acetic acid in the vinegar will dissolve most ofd the residue without damaging either the plastic or the small springs inside those parts. No need to rinse off the parts because the distilled vinegar (acetic acid) will evaporate quickly leaving little to no residue. You still have to use sandpaper to remove the copper oxide tarnish, but that only takes 15 minutes or so, almost as long as it takes me to type this. I am a chemist, and as very few plastics are damaged by dilute acetic acid, I figured this would be fine. I did not put the other parts in because I did not care about any grease trhere and there are few contacts there to worry about. The small electrical connector (the company my mom worked for in the 1970's used to make the plastic parts for a company named AMP) would be a huge pain to clean, but I have done those in my past (remove each pin, clean up, put back in the right way, repeat).
Awesome
Excellent video with great detailed explanations!!!
Daniel Compean thanks Daniel... sorry about the sideways recording... bit of a new b with the YT videos. Cheers
Thank you so much! This was a great video and helped me out so much. Thank you again!
my pleasure... sometimes you just have to try to fix something even if parts fly everywhere...
Where are the contacts for the windshield wipers. Everything else works. Great video. Thanks
Great video! My high beams on my 98 Mustang have not worked for years - but all other functions work. I'm still researching possibilities, but it's nice I can give the switch a go myself. Even if it does not fix it, I won't be out the $ for taking a look! Thx!
no worries
. fuse Look in manual page 135 look up high beam fuse 5w I think fuse number 16 ,,but look it up in manual to be certain. I just fixed mine today
This is the only video I’ve found on repair, thank you very much , Johnny Woods from Fort Worth Texas, just subscribed, I’ll let you know if it works
Just fixed mine today,great video,more beer money for me.thanks
Bryan Auck your welcome sir
Great video! But you forgot to show the washer/wiper circuit in the handle, wich i have problems with.
I opend the cap at the outer end and found the circuit coverd in grease. I cleaned it but and the washer started working but not the wipers.
Can i do something more?
Thanks mg my fuse for my brake light has been blowing every time I hithe brakes would work some times been racking my brain now for weeks and thus is what the problem was thank you so much so helpful been looking on utube for ever for this explaination
Great video bud! Thanks! Hardest part is getting that assembly OUT of the steering column. So many screws and different heads. My washer fluid switch, after being activated, won't turn off. Not sure this will fix it because there aren't any contacts like for the other functions but I'll install it tomorrow and see. I also shot some cleaner into the end where the potentiometer is hoping it will clean that connect.
I have this same problem for me '99 Ford Expedition, the front washer will not go off once activated. (In reality, mine eventually goes off, after a VERY long time (sometimes 1/3 of the tank.) I have the benefit of the paper and electronic wiring diagrams. (The original paper diagram is unfortunately wrong here, but the electronic one appears corrected. The paper diagram reflected incorrectly the different switch (in terms of the washer and wiper) of the '97 and '98 Ford Expedition (also the F150's, 250's, 350's) and many other vehicles. But each vehicle seems to have switched over at different times between '99 and 2000. (The older ones have a red flash switch, the new ones, a black flasher switch with red triangle, or no markings). Anyway, the "problem" seems to not be easily fixed for the washer sticking on. It is not a contact problem. I have a multi-meter and ohm tested the contacts and resistance of the switch. The way this works, the multi-function puts out different levels of ohm resistance (voltage drop) on two signals depending on what is activated on the wipers. The GEM then reads those two signals (which as essentially encoded in a fairly trivial table sort of way) and then controls the wiper motors to wipe at OFF, LO, HI, INTERMITTENT and the intermittent wipe speed, as well as sprayer on/off. (There is also an input from the tank, which has a low water level cutoff, but since it sprays, and won't shut off, that is not the problem.) The problem IS: that the OFF level resistor appears to be shot. That is in the switch. I believe it is in the little circuit board on the top (back) of the clam shell "top" that is removed in this video and put aside, and then eventually put back on and screwed back down with the Torx T10's. When OFF (washer button released), the switch puts out a very low resistance, too low. If holding the switch and letting it hang by the turn signal arm, and starring at the "rear" connectors to the vehcile, the top connector hole nearest the signal arm is the one with the washer motor control signals. The top far right, and the top middle pins, 530 and 993 respectively. When ON (buttom pushed), these are supposed to be closed (no resistance, essentially 0 ohms. 5 or less is OK). When OFF (button released), these are supposed to provide 100K ohm resistance. (On a volt meter, use the 100X or 200K setting). It should read close to 100K ohm (e.g. probably 100. 90 is OK. 80 probably still works. After that gets dicey. Mine only puts out 26K of resistance, too little.) So what happens is when ON you charge up that signals to full power voltage 12V. And when OFF, the high resistance resistor is supposed block flow, but on mine, it is only at 1/4 of the required resistance. So, it leaks a lot of current and allows the voltage to stay high (close to 12V) for too long, and the GEM thus thinks the button is still pushed (when it is not), and still runs the washer. Eventually, the lower resistance resistor finally lowers the voltage below the GEM cutoff (not specified in the manual) and the GEM turns off the washer, after a long time. So, the resistor is shot. I believe it is on the very small PCB board in the clam shell lid. You can see it when looking at the switch from the lever side. The wires from the lever appear in the middle, and there are two silver contacts on each side of the wires. The green back there is a printed circuit board (PCB), and it likely has the resistors. (Otherwise, there are inside of the stick itself.) The stick has a cover on the back. It can be removed with a fine blade screw driver pushed in on the small skinny end at the base of the arm. Push hard, and then pry toward the drivers arm to the contacts, driver blade toward the arm end, and the door will pop off. But all that is in there are the wires, and the end of a metal support arm that holds the arms wiper "twisty" elements together/on. No idea if that can even be released. (it went together somehow, but I think it is press fit on, and not really designed to be disassembled.) So that is when I gave up, and bought a new one.
mine is having an issue with engaging the windshield washer pump. I have to wiggle the switch to just the right place then it comes on strong...seems obvious a bad contact. Everything else works fine. I don't think he even mention the washer fluid part of the switch.
Great help. God bless you.
Glad it worked out
Don’t you need the spraying contact stuff or greased to protect the voltage
Thanks for the video! It does seem that you skipped a step which is after cleaning the corrosion off, you did not put fresh dielectric grease on the metal contacts and the plastic mechanisms' wear points. I'm sure it works fine without it for now, but it was there for a reason, to allow smoother movement and to slow down wear and return of corrosion.
I came to this video for a different reason, that a long time ago I had some reason to pull the cap and screw off the stalk end, then when I put it back together I had lost the detent for the wiper delay, which gives it that notchy feel when you rotate it. At the time I didn't see that a pin on a spring had flew out of it when I opened it, didn't know what I had done wrong and lived with it like that, because loss of that detent doesn't stop it from working if you pay attention to how often the wiper wipes in relation to how much you turn it, but a few days ago I found that spring with a pin on the end lying on my floorboard so I then realized why I lost that wiper detent feature.
Unfortunately that stalk end is also loaded with grease so it will be difficult to see inside, where to place that springed pin, but recently it became more of a priority because my right turn signal started making that common buzzing noise and intermittently doesn't activate the right turn signal. Your video will be helpful to take it apart, so thanks again. FYI the video would have allowed seeing more detail up close if you had rotated your phone so that it was in landscape recording mode.
How did you take the cap off?
SWEET... HE IS A MASTER CRAFTSMAN
Flash to pass not working anymore. A few month ago it was. Can this cleaning fix the problem?
I have mine apart now, and there was a spring lying loose inside. I found your video while searching for reference to see where it goes. But that spring is not in your video. Great tutorial by the way.
Did you figure out where the "spare" spring is positioned, I have it as well and can't see where it goes.
Same problem, but TWO springs…
@@datacentredesignit was supposed to go under the turning stick there's a slot where it looks like a arched rainbow 🌈
Great video. Was very curious what they are like inside. My issue is a little different. My right turn signal will come on automatically without moving the turn signal arm. Only the right side and very intermittently. Do you think cleaning it will help or the switch needs replacement? I was also thinking it may be the multifunction reply. Anyone experience the same issue and find a solution?
I am having trouble with my left turn signal that it sometimes work and sometimes not.... what can i do?
is it like this one? with the torx bits? I had the same symptom....right signal was intermittent... I had to kinda hold it half way. Try to take it apart and clean all the contacts until their polished shiny copper and then put it back together. good luck
@@1pilotsteve yuup same as this! I opened it and it was not that dirty then i cleaned it. i noticed that my right/left signal contact is losing the copper(bronze color) but sometimes it would work.... i am so clueless what it is the problem... is it the relay, fuse or i am losing contact???
el precio d palanca direccionales d ranger 1993
el precio d palanca direccionales d ranger 1993