There was a comedian I once listened to and every other word was "Fuc*&g and I hated it. your every other word is shit and crap and for that reason I will not subscribe to your channel.
Being a little precious aren't we. 3 Shits and 1 Crap in a video over 15mins long, hardly excessive surely. There can't be many things you can watch? Or perhaps you hadn't reached your daily trolling quota? Anyway, thanks for subscribing, even though you said you wouldn't.
Legend! I made this over the weekend and no longer hate my table saw. Gives a MUCH better cut, and feels a hell of a lot safer to use now that the fence is rigid. Thanks so much for this. I looked through lots of fence upgrade videos and yours stood out. Should be more highly ranked in search results.
I have just finished making your mod on my saw. Thanks mate. Works a treat. You mention in your comments that the slide fence isnt accurate -bit sloppy. I fixed mine tonight. I had the bottom of a Resence paint bucket that I cut up to make a dust collector. I cut a 10mm strip off it and wedged it into the groove running along the inside edge of the sliding tray. I fitted 2 strips one on each end of the tray, The plastic strip is patterned on one side and grips tight. Slider is now a little bit stiff but that will ease with use I reckon. Doesnt slop about and thats the main thing! Cheers Paul
I have been meaning to pull the sliding table apart an fix it up to make it more accurate but have never got round to it as I mostly just use the saw for ripping. But maybe your idea will make me do it.
I just got myself a MLT100 about 2 weeks ago, and was starting to regret it, I always thought Makita meant quality, I noticed something was wrong when it was not giving me a straight line. I put it down to the arm straight away. I saw this video and thought, I am never going to be able to do that, I am not a carpenter by trade. I just started making things as it was taken months and months waiting for a professional carpenter to finish a job. but I gave it ago anyway see how it would come out. the only difference is my 4 holes where the arm is, are all 13 mm. and I place the other section inside the tube. so it still moves as the original. I am now able to straighten the arm up nicely. I did what you said about fixing the back plate but noticed you'res had slight movement as you said, so after aligning it I moved it 1 mm closer and that gave a nice tight fit. now when i level it I can close the arm half way, get the final straight line and close fully... and it looks just like you'res. Thanks ever so much. my cuts are way better than they where.
Have you replaced the shitty plastic blade inset yet? I recommend doing that for safety and accuracy reasons. I have a video on that too if you need ideas.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL That stupid black plastic surrounding the blade. :-). thats on my to do list lol. the one you made can that do 45 degree angles too or just for straight cuts. ?
Just fantastic... absolutely clear instruction. Thanks mate you made my day... now just to make the fence. Thanks a million Hampton Gabriel Melbourne Australia
I didnt take the tray to pieces- just pushed it to the end to expose the groove on the side edge. They I pressed the strip in and tapped it i tight with a tack hammer. Did same on the other end. Super quick n easy. Groove is about 3mm and gap about 10mm to side of saw. :) Paul
I have been waiting for this video. I have been a bit too busy for youtube lately so it was a nice surprise to come back and see this. I have the same saw and the fence is a piece if shit to say the least.... Thanks mate!
Looking at the rattle you had when trying to guage first drill hole I would have thought both holes at 6 mm would have given loads of flex to allow adjustment. Also why not drop the bolts through from the inside of the steel and place nuts on underside ?
The dhs680 circular saw brought me to your channel and then i saw alot more cool stuff i also am interested in here so i subbed. Great content! And nice to see all those makita tools lol i mostly buy them also. I have bought other tools too not to be a big fanboy of makita only hahaha. I have been thinking of buying the mlt100 but the bad reviews push me away even tho it has a great price.
One thing you did not show, is how did you align the fence to the blade. I have a MLT-100, and the blade does not run exactly true to the mitre slots, did you align to the blade, or the mitre slots?
This is the same table saw I have. I see a new project on the horizon. I won’t be able to put the end stop on though as I built an out feed table that sits up against the back end of my table.
If you have a wooden outfeed table you could cut a groove in it to have the fence run inside the Groove to keep it straight, just a possibility, cheers thanks watching
I have this thing and i made a ply insert. the factory one is rubbish! can't believe i didnt think of an aluminium one! Nice video mate. Im planning to extend my whole table with a john heisz style fence to eliminate the extendable table with the stupid different sizes.
nice! spent the last two weekends running timber through mine and this would have been a huge help, I'll have to pick up some taps When you tighten the stock fence it moves quite a bit, can be a pain if you just have a mark on a board and you are moving the fence to line the mark up with the blade.. then you tighten up the fence and it moves a few mills (not such an issue using the do you find that while you are tightening the new fence it straightens up before the block at the end clamps it in place? also could be useful for attaching feather boards and other jigs too, also nice to be able to replace the wood as it wears/ gets chopped into
I know the issue you are talking about and it is a real pain. It seems good with the new fence. I was going to fix this issue at the handle end but wanted to use the fence and get the video out so I ran out of time. I might also make some other attachments and jigs.
This MLT100 Makita with it's short and fixed at one end rip fence is the same fence design as the Ryobi 1525RCSC from 2013 year. I have to ask... as the saw comes and with the play in the end is it more prone to kick back or less prone to kick back. There is no apparent way to square up the original design with the edge of the saw blade, and if the back of the blade is closer to the fence than the front of the blade, that can't be good at all, because the saw back teeth will lift up the work, fast! It seems to me that the new fence is safer from a kick back point of view, but i'm no expert.
Have you done anything about the elephant in the room - which is the fact that the runner on the right-hand extension table doesn't line up with the runner on the main table? If you have the fence clamp overlapping that in any way, there's a several mm swing at the other end of the fence. I'm thinking of shimming both, just shimming the main one slightly less than the one on the extension, so they're properly level with each other.
I can't remember where I got it, I think it came in an old drill set. You should be able to get one at most hardware stores or search for 'drill gauge' on ebay or google.
Great vid with good explanations (the swearing just proved to me that you are human and everyone now uses the vernacular so it doesn't bother me). One thing I missed was where you were fiddling with the initial locking method. Did you do anything there to maybe correct it in any way?
Hi sir I’m an avid follower of your videos. I’m a newbie in woodworking, so the first step I’m going to commit is, purchasing either 2 of these items.. Miter saw from makita XSL06 or Bosch GTS1031 table saw.. both is about the same in price (im on a tight budget somehow) .. which one is worth to buy? Any advice?
Those two tools are hard to compare as they are completely different. A table saw is a more versatile sawthat you can do more things on, but if you are not cutting sheet material then a mitre saw is much quicker, safer and easier to use. I love the Makita XSL06 and can't believe I don't have one yet. The Bosch looks to have some cool features, although it is very small. The blade inset is also horrible and would need to be replaced to make it safer and more functional. Also you would need to build a sled for it to use it in a similar fashion as a mitre saw. If you are going to be using the tool mostly for long lengths of timber (i.e, for decking, construction, anything longer than about a metre) then get a Mitre Saw. If you are going to be cutting ply, mdf, ripping timber length ways, then get a table saw. Personally I would always buy a Mitre over a Table. Some people will disagree, but it all depends what you want to do with it. I have both and use my Mitre saw 10x more than my Table saw, but wouldn't want to be without either. The Mitre is also more portable as it is battery, so that costs a bit more. Hope that helped.
Mate this is awesome, nice work. I was about to make a video about this exact table saw I found at the dump last night. Works great in excellent condition. I wonder if this is why they tossed it out. Think I'll be doing your solution for sure. Cheers 👍
The flex in the fence is designed to prevent the blade binding in the timber and you notice the flex occurs after the wood has entered the blade. So when the fence flexes, its at the rear, the cut is already made and therefore should be not be effected by the fence flex. "Improve" it by all means, but dont forget the riving knife/anti kickback pawls, (which have been removed!), may not prevent the blade binding/kick back if youre cutting hard wood with a not so sharp blade. When your new fence doesnt allow flex and you notice things are slowing down, the natural reaction us to push harder! Thereby generating friction etc, etc. You know the rest. Think id have been tempted to run the timber used between the blade and new steel fence to ensure it was perfectly parallel to the blade. Nice vid but be careful!
You won't find Vitex at Bunnings or Mitre 10. I get it from South Pacific Timber, but that is in Auckland so not much help for you. You could use any hardwood. Sometimes they have hardwood decking at Bunnings and Mitre 10 which would do. You could use rimu or even pine if you get a nicely finished bit from B or M10.
Initially you had a brace between the two boards but was removed later. Any particular reason. I have the same saw and have the same problem with fence. Thanks
There was a comedian I once listened to and every other word was "Fuc*&g and I hated it. your every other word is shit and crap and for that reason I will not subscribe to your channel.
Being a little precious aren't we. 3 Shits and 1 Crap in a video over 15mins long, hardly excessive surely. There can't be many things you can watch? Or perhaps you hadn't reached your daily trolling quota? Anyway, thanks for subscribing, even though you said you wouldn't.
You were so offended by the language that you sat through the WHOLE video and then took the time to post a comment
shit is that right hey?? oh crap!!!
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL haha,, well said
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL x1
I'll be doing this too soon. You literally voiced all of my grievances with the fence better than I can, good work!
Legend! I made this over the weekend and no longer hate my table saw. Gives a MUCH better cut, and feels a hell of a lot safer to use now that the fence is rigid. Thanks so much for this. I looked through lots of fence upgrade videos and yours stood out. Should be more highly ranked in search results.
Cheers, glad it worked out.
This is a great solution that even someone with my meagre skills could do. I'm going to give it a go. Thanks very much.
When adding the end piece that locks it in you can use wedges in the slots to line the fence against, gives it a slightly more parallel alignment
I think this is the best fence ever made for MLT 100. I think I do one like yours. Thx!
I have just finished making your mod on my saw. Thanks mate. Works a treat. You mention in your comments that the slide fence isnt accurate -bit sloppy. I fixed mine tonight. I had the bottom of a Resence paint bucket that I cut up to make a dust collector. I cut a 10mm strip off it and wedged it into the groove running along the inside edge of the sliding tray. I fitted 2 strips one on each end of the tray, The plastic strip is patterned on one side and grips tight. Slider is now a little bit stiff but that will ease with use I reckon. Doesnt slop about and thats the main thing! Cheers Paul
I have been meaning to pull the sliding table apart an fix it up to make it more accurate but have never got round to it as I mostly just use the saw for ripping. But maybe your idea will make me do it.
Cheers mate, new fence is rock solid - a big improvement!
Glad it worked out.
I just got myself a MLT100 about 2 weeks ago, and was starting to regret it, I always thought Makita meant quality, I noticed something was wrong when it was not giving me a straight line. I put it down to the arm straight away. I saw this video and thought, I am never going to be able to do that, I am not a carpenter by trade. I just started making things as it was taken months and months waiting for a professional carpenter to finish a job. but I gave it ago anyway see how it would come out. the only difference is my 4 holes where the arm is, are all 13 mm. and I place the other section inside the tube. so it still moves as the original. I am now able to straighten the arm up nicely. I did what you said about fixing the back plate but noticed you'res had slight movement as you said, so after aligning it I moved it 1 mm closer and that gave a nice tight fit. now when i level it I can close the arm half way, get the final straight line and close fully... and it looks just like you'res. Thanks ever so much. my cuts are way better than they where.
Have you replaced the shitty plastic blade inset yet? I recommend doing that for safety and accuracy reasons. I have a video on that too if you need ideas.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL That stupid black plastic surrounding the blade. :-). thats on my to do list lol. the one you made can that do 45 degree angles too or just for straight cuts. ?
Just fantastic... absolutely clear instruction.
Thanks mate you made my day... now just to make the fence.
Thanks a million
Hampton Gabriel
Melbourne
Australia
I didnt take the tray to pieces- just pushed it to the end to expose the groove on the side edge. They I pressed the strip in and tapped it i tight with a tack hammer. Did same on the other end. Super quick n easy. Groove is about 3mm and gap about 10mm to side of saw. :) Paul
Cheers, I will give it a go.
very nice. just made one today. massive improvement
Everything looks amazing. One thing I didn't get - Why did you put a shim under the fence before drilling through (07:15 ) ?
Thanks
One more thing - did you screw the 300mm locking back piece when the fence was open or closed ?
thanks
Thanks for video Have built this metal part (but longer) from metal. What is benefit of adding timber to sides?
I have been waiting for this video. I have been a bit too busy for youtube lately so it was a nice surprise to come back and see this. I have the same saw and the fence is a piece if shit to say the least.... Thanks mate!
Sorry it took so long ;)
Looking at the rattle you had when trying to guage first drill hole I would have thought both holes at 6 mm would have given loads of flex to allow adjustment. Also why not drop the bolts through from the inside of the steel and place nuts on underside ?
The dhs680 circular saw brought me to your channel and then i saw alot more cool stuff i also am interested in here so i subbed. Great content! And nice to see all those makita tools lol i mostly buy them also. I have bought other tools too not to be a big fanboy of makita only hahaha. I have been thinking of buying the mlt100 but the bad reviews push me away even tho it has a great price.
One thing you did not show, is how did you align the fence to the blade. I have a MLT-100, and the blade does not run exactly true to the mitre slots, did you align to the blade, or the mitre slots?
This is the same table saw I have. I see a new project on the horizon. I won’t be able to put the end stop on though as I built an out feed table that sits up against the back end of my table.
If you have a wooden outfeed table you could cut a groove in it to have the fence run inside the Groove to keep it straight, just a possibility, cheers thanks watching
If you use the same profile as the steel one but in aluminium it will be rigid too and less heavy.
thanks for sharing this...gonna try this method on my jet table saw..
I have this thing and i made a ply insert. the factory one is rubbish! can't believe i didnt think of an aluminium one! Nice video mate. Im planning to extend my whole table with a john heisz style fence to eliminate the extendable table with the stupid different sizes.
Probably the best fence modification I saw, great job! Did you have problem setting it square?
nice! spent the last two weekends running timber through mine and this would have been a huge help, I'll have to pick up some taps
When you tighten the stock fence it moves quite a bit, can be a pain if you just have a mark on a board and you are moving the fence to line the mark up with the blade.. then you tighten up the fence and it moves a few mills (not such an issue using the
do you find that while you are tightening the new fence it straightens up before the block at the end clamps it in place?
also could be useful for attaching feather boards and other jigs too, also nice to be able to replace the wood as it wears/ gets chopped into
I know the issue you are talking about and it is a real pain. It seems good with the new fence. I was going to fix this issue at the handle end but wanted to use the fence and get the video out so I ran out of time. I might also make some other attachments and jigs.
i have spent all day doing just the things you talk about !
“Ohh this shits in the way” haha love it
This MLT100 Makita with it's short and fixed at one end rip fence is the same fence design as the Ryobi 1525RCSC from 2013 year. I have to ask... as the saw comes and with the play in the end is it more prone to kick back or less prone to kick back. There is no apparent way to square up the original design with the edge of the saw blade, and if the back of the blade is closer to the fence than the front of the blade, that can't be good at all, because the saw back teeth will lift up the work, fast! It seems to me that the new fence is safer from a kick back point of view, but i'm no expert.
Have you done anything about the elephant in the room - which is the fact that the runner on the right-hand extension table doesn't line up with the runner on the main table? If you have the fence clamp overlapping that in any way, there's a several mm swing at the other end of the fence. I'm thinking of shimming both, just shimming the main one slightly less than the one on the extension, so they're properly level with each other.
Here is my quick solution: th-cam.com/video/7RVBMr4Ti-I/w-d-xo.html
Hi, nice job. Could you please tell me where you got the hole size template from. The one you used to size the bolt. Thanks
I can't remember where I got it, I think it came in an old drill set. You should be able to get one at most hardware stores or search for 'drill gauge' on ebay or google.
You could try Anxminster in the UK. They offer wordwide shipping.
Great vid with good explanations (the swearing just proved to me that you are human and everyone now uses the vernacular so it doesn't bother me). One thing I missed was where you were fiddling with the initial locking method. Did you do anything there to maybe correct it in any way?
Hi sir I’m an avid follower of your videos. I’m a newbie in woodworking, so the first step I’m going to commit is, purchasing either 2 of these items.. Miter saw from makita XSL06 or Bosch GTS1031 table saw.. both is about the same in price (im on a tight budget somehow) .. which one is worth to buy? Any advice?
Those two tools are hard to compare as they are completely different. A table saw is a more versatile sawthat you can do more things on, but if you are not cutting sheet material then a mitre saw is much quicker, safer and easier to use. I love the Makita XSL06 and can't believe I don't have one yet. The Bosch looks to have some cool features, although it is very small. The blade inset is also horrible and would need to be replaced to make it safer and more functional. Also you would need to build a sled for it to use it in a similar fashion as a mitre saw.
If you are going to be using the tool mostly for long lengths of timber (i.e, for decking, construction, anything longer than about a metre) then get a Mitre Saw.
If you are going to be cutting ply, mdf, ripping timber length ways, then get a table saw.
Personally I would always buy a Mitre over a Table. Some people will disagree, but it all depends what you want to do with it. I have both and use my Mitre saw 10x more than my Table saw, but wouldn't want to be without either.
The Mitre is also more portable as it is battery, so that costs a bit more.
Hope that helped.
thanks so much for this, been waiting for this video!!
Sorry it took so long.
Mate this is awesome, nice work. I was about to make a video about this exact table saw I found at the dump last night. Works great in excellent condition. I wonder if this is why they tossed it out. Think I'll be doing your solution for sure. Cheers 👍
Make sure you replace the crappy black plastic blade insert.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL wiil do 👍
I made a video on that too.
Should make a holder for your push stick on top of the fence !!
The Bosch makes a lot of noice.
The flex in the fence is designed to prevent the blade binding in the timber and you notice the flex occurs after the wood has entered the blade. So when the fence flexes, its at the rear, the cut is already made and therefore should be not be effected by the fence flex.
"Improve" it by all means, but dont forget the riving knife/anti kickback pawls, (which have been removed!), may not prevent the blade binding/kick back if youre cutting hard wood with a not so sharp blade. When your new fence doesnt allow flex and you notice things are slowing down, the natural reaction us to push harder! Thereby generating friction etc, etc. You know the rest. Think id have been tempted to run the timber used between the blade and new steel fence to ensure it was perfectly parallel to the blade.
Nice vid but be careful!
You are completely wrong. Most good table saws have the fence locking front and back. The flex is NOT a feature, it's a failure.
Muy bueno el video!!
brilliant video, well worth a subscribe
Much appreciated!
Mate that is a great fence. Can you make one to sell me? Hate metal work but really need a better fence for my Makita.
Where abouts do you live?
🔥🔥🔥
Tank your so much !
Do you have a PDF for this build please.
No.
Three years on and these saws are still made with rubbish ripping fences, thanks for sharing this no-brainer upgrade.
Can you still store the fence in the saw’s storage?
No. But I never stored it there anyway it is always on top of the saw.
Where did you get the timber from? Can you get it from Mitre 10 or Bunnings?
You won't find Vitex at Bunnings or Mitre 10. I get it from South Pacific Timber, but that is in Auckland so not much help for you. You could use any hardwood. Sometimes they have hardwood decking at Bunnings and Mitre 10 which would do. You could use rimu or even pine if you get a nicely finished bit from B or M10.
Thanks a lot.
VERY USEFUL WHO OWN MLT100
Initially you had a brace between the two boards but was removed later. Any particular reason. I have the same saw and have the same problem with fence. Thanks
Pretty shamefull for Makita if the owners of such expensive machines got to improve accessoires, only to make it more precise...
Makita should be ashamed producing a crappy and unsafe fence! I've viewed 4 different versions available on TH-cam regarding the same crappy fence.
Don`t buy a Makita Ml100. I did and sincerely regret it. OK, you can modify this rig, but for the price it isn`t worth the trouble.