Hi Katie! Thanks for the video! I'm trying to work more on my film photography - I'm wanting to start hybrid shooting weddings and hopefully get into more luxury weddings by next year or the year after. I've got a Mamiya 645af. I'm going to be shooting a lot of Portra 400 on it! Can't wait to see how it goes!
Hello, when you first switched to Portra 400, did you also switch your digital editing style to match it? Or did you make your Portra 400 scans match your digital editing colors your previously used with Pro 400H?
I’d love to see a video of how to edit a digital photo to look like film! I try so hard to get it to match but there’s that something I’m missing (ya ya I know- I’m missing the whole shooting film part- but I’m not ready for that yet!)
Hello Katie, I've been waiting for your experience of your switch from Canon to Sony. Would you mind to make a comparison video of doing portrait with Canon and Sony ? with your beautiful editing signature applied to both images ? Thank you, love your videos
I need to make a new video because I switched back to Canon in 2020. Now I’m also adding a fuji GFX 50s to my work. So I’ll make a new video soon with my set up :) Thanks for following along!
If I'm shooting in full sun, I still try to meter slightly down -- 45 degree angled towards the ground :) Once you've done it a few times and see the results, you'll know how to meter best. Thanks for the question!
I was confused when you started to talk about the bulb. The bulb is taking an indecent light reading, so it reads the light failing on the meter. It does not read your subjects or your shadows. If you want to read your subjects or shadows, you need a reflective light reading.
No you turn the bulb away from the sun and take an incident reading of the shadows. As long as the light is falling on the meter the same as it is falling on your subject you will get an accurate reading.
I do not understand how you can get different shutter speeds at a given aperture with 2 different 400 ISO films in the same lighting. The meter reading only depends on the amount of light and Film ISO to calculate the shutter speed and aperture. My understanding of incident metering is that you simply point the bulb when extended with the meter in incident light mode at the light source for the part of your subject that you want to meter for. I presume that your light meter supports both incident and reflective metering. One other difference between the Fuji and Kodak film is that the Kodak film will not support auto setting the film speed on the camera back on the Contax 645. Licking the film is one of the best features of shooting 120 film, a long time ago the gum on the Ilford films had a very moorish taste, it was very marmite the taste could make you shudder. Sadly they have toned down the taste of the gum.
Fuji 400H is naturally a film that needs a lot of light (as most Fuji films do), and it is better exposed that way (according to most people, especially wedding photographers). It's a film that you have to overexpose in order to get a solid base for your shots, and it's very flexible in the sense that you can do it +2, +3 stops without causing skin tones to change significantly. Portra 400 is also a film that does need help with overexposure, but the skin tones can be very "yellow" if you shoot it the same way that you shoot Fuji 400H. These 2 are color negative films, and overexposure will result in better shadow details & brighter images overall - which are characteristics that wedding photographers look for in their flat, airy photos. Although they're the same speed, they have to be shot differently because of each film's individual characteristics and the photographer's intention: - Fuji 400H: Light-hungry, but very flexible in terms of overexposure & good all-around skin tones. - Portra 400: Not as light-hungry, but also not that flexible in terms of overexposure & skin tones.
Glad to see you posting again! Always love watching your videos.
Thanks so much Jeff!! Excited to get back into it :)
Welcome back, i was watching your other videos last week and here you are.
Awesome! Thank you so much :)
Thank you for these videos. I appreciate your teaching style!
Thank you so much for share this video!! I was curious about this things!!
These tips are awesome! Thank you so much 😊 Excited to shoot more Portra now!
You're so welcome Julia!! I'm so glad you found this helpful :) let me know how it goes!
Hi Katie! Thanks for the video! I'm trying to work more on my film photography - I'm wanting to start hybrid shooting weddings and hopefully get into more luxury weddings by next year or the year after. I've got a Mamiya 645af. I'm going to be shooting a lot of Portra 400 on it! Can't wait to see how it goes!
Thanks for sharing Katie! this is very helpful for me.
Love this!! Would love to see you edit!
Hi Katie! Thank you for this video! I absolutely loved learning more about portra 400!
Hey Emily!! You're so welcome, I'm glad you found it helpful :) Thanks for following along!
When I shot weddings with film before digital, my go to film was always portra, and I was never disappointed.
Glad to see you back!
Thank you!! :)
Hello, when you first switched to Portra 400, did you also switch your digital editing style to match it? Or did you make your Portra 400 scans match your digital editing colors your previously used with Pro 400H?
Great video! Epic Canadian accent with the Few-ji! 😂
I’d love to see a video of how to edit a digital photo to look like film! I try so hard to get it to match but there’s that something I’m missing (ya ya I know- I’m missing the whole shooting film part- but I’m not ready for that yet!)
Still a struggle for me to, to be honest haha! But I’ll make a video sharing some tips ☺️
Hello Katie, I've been waiting for your experience of your switch from Canon to Sony. Would you mind to make a comparison video of doing portrait with Canon and Sony ? with your beautiful editing signature applied to both images ? Thank you, love your videos
I need to make a new video because I switched back to Canon in 2020. Now I’m also adding a fuji GFX 50s to my work. So I’ll make a new video soon with my set up :) Thanks for following along!
@@KatieNicollePhotography Thank you so much! Can't wait to see more of your works !😁
Where did you buy your Contax 645 from? I've been trying to find one and I don't know where to buy from :/
Muy buenos vídeos.❤❤
very helpful!
hello Nicolle～Thanks your share～I wanna to know～you alway use F2 or F2.8 at indoor and outdoor？
I mostly shoot at 2.8! ☺️
nice work. I'm curious, how do you meter in full sun? do you still meter for the shadows if any, or midtones?
If I'm shooting in full sun, I still try to meter slightly down -- 45 degree angled towards the ground :) Once you've done it a few times and see the results, you'll know how to meter best. Thanks for the question!
@@KatieNicollePhotography thank you for replying
I always rate Portra 400 @ ISO 100 and develop at box speed. The results are amazing!
I’m sure that would look great too!! Always better to have a little more exposure :)
Hi, do you shoot on 35mm also? If yes share some experience please
I do! I have the canon 1V. I'll make a video on that very soon :)
@@KatieNicollePhotography awesome 👏🏻 looking forward
I was confused when you started to talk about the bulb. The bulb is taking an indecent light reading, so it reads the light failing on the meter. It does not read your subjects or your shadows. If you want to read your subjects or shadows, you need a reflective light reading.
No you turn the bulb away from the sun and take an incident reading of the shadows. As long as the light is falling on the meter the same as it is falling on your subject you will get an accurate reading.
Nice videos
I do not understand how you can get different shutter speeds at a given aperture with 2 different 400 ISO films in the same lighting. The meter reading only depends on the amount of light and Film ISO to calculate the shutter speed and aperture. My understanding of incident metering is that you simply point the bulb when extended with the meter in incident light mode at the light source for the part of your subject that you want to meter for. I presume that your light meter supports both incident and reflective metering. One other difference between the Fuji and Kodak film is that the Kodak film will not support auto setting the film speed on the camera back on the Contax 645. Licking the film is one of the best features of shooting 120 film, a long time ago the gum on the Ilford films had a very moorish taste, it was very marmite the taste could make you shudder. Sadly they have toned down the taste of the gum.
Fuji 400H is naturally a film that needs a lot of light (as most Fuji films do), and it is better exposed that way (according to most people, especially wedding photographers). It's a film that you have to overexpose in order to get a solid base for your shots, and it's very flexible in the sense that you can do it +2, +3 stops without causing skin tones to change significantly. Portra 400 is also a film that does need help with overexposure, but the skin tones can be very "yellow" if you shoot it the same way that you shoot Fuji 400H. These 2 are color negative films, and overexposure will result in better shadow details & brighter images overall - which are characteristics that wedding photographers look for in their flat, airy photos. Although they're the same speed, they have to be shot differently because of each film's individual characteristics and the photographer's intention:
- Fuji 400H: Light-hungry, but very flexible in terms of overexposure & good all-around skin tones.
- Portra 400: Not as light-hungry, but also not that flexible in terms of overexposure & skin tones.
Great explanation!!
Looks like Jose villa has a legion of followers.
❤❤❤
if you do shoot 200iso setting on portra 400 how many stop over???? +1? or +2? in this case couldnt be overexposed?
thansk you
That’s one stop and no, overexposure works differently on film.