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MUST WATCH BEFORE YOU BUY ANY CHEAP UNDERWATER METAL DETECTOR!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ส.ค. 2020
- Found and fixed my problem. Follow these simple steps to make sure your cheapo detector lasts and doesn't have the same problems as mine did.
Yo,
When you out the hot glue in, put extra to make a little bed. Then, before it's dry, shove the battery in. It will still be able to come out, but won't twist.
Instead of replacing the foam in the cap with more foam, stuff ABSORBING material in. Like a paper towel. That way, whenever you take the battery out, you can see if you're starting to get a leak.
Also, what about smothering your board in 2 part epoxy?
I am about to buy one for my up coming adventures
ty you vary much for the info
New O ring...and plumbers tape...works everytime
Hi how did you first take the main board out of your detector , mine has been faulty from when i first used it & they say warranty has passed cheers . & great vido
I believe very long tweezers
That should provide some extra protection for the green board. For my underwater detectors I regularly inspect the O-rings with a headband jewelers lens. At first I thought it was unnecessary until I used one on what I thought was a clean O-ring. I was shocked to find tiny grains of sand and even a tiny black hair laying across the O-ring. I also use silicone for the O-rings naturally. Knock on wood, I haven't had a single seal failure. My searches are almost always in low visual water with lots of debris.
This particular one hasn't seen past 40ft and still failed in shallow water. The build quality leaves room for improvement for sure. I have other detectors of much better quality and I keep this one around as backup if my other one goes down or needs charging.
@@MNDashcam That's good to know because I was considering adding one to my arsenal.
@@mathewdavis-adventuresandd6643 these ones sell for about $100 but if you are able to spend a little more, the other main one I use is called a Nokta Makro Pulsedive and it's much more durable with a better build quality and a internal rechargeable battery. The one in the video feels like flimsy paper compared to this one. I've had absolutely no issues of any kind with it and it's got a removable head that you can replace with a pinpoint. Adjustable sensitivity and plenty of settings to get good results.
@@MNDashcam Thank you very much. Build quality was my only concern. I didn't know which one to go with. I don't mind spending money, but I hate buying trash.
@@mathewdavis-adventuresandd6643 I usually try to get the best quality product I can to begin with so I don't have to buy it again when the trash version inevitably breaks. For this though I wasn't quite sure if I wanted to really get into underwater metal detecting so I bought a cheap metal detector just to try it out. It's a lot of fun so it was well worth buying a better one.
do you know why is not vibrate to start but continues blinking?how you pull to removed the ruber from the inside to rich the electric plate without to cut the wires??any help/?
I had the same problem. No vibration after a week. Don’t know what happened but I wanted to have a look inside. So the rubber plug inside..just flip it with a screwdriver or even with a spoon. Then you can pull it out. Just be careful because I pulled the whole thing out to quick and the plate came with it disconnected from the first part. I’m still thinking how to put back together...
I had the same problem as you but I haven't the same luck. My circuit has been compromised. Do you know where I can buy just this part so I can use my equipment?
I don't know where you could get the board from. I'd guess you would have to contact the actual manufacturer and ask.
What brand is that one? I like the style of it
It's a generic Chinese one sold under multiple brands but I'd avoid it. I'd spend a little more to get a quality one
@@MNDashcam right on. Thanks for the Swift reply. If it works properly then I don't mind getting a cheap one. I'll just make sure it's sealed up properly before trying it if that was the only issue. I really want one of the miniature handheld ones like that. I'd rather not lug around a big standard size one underwater
@@brsrc759 the other one that I have is also a miniature one like this design for underwater scuba use. Called a nokta makro pulse dive. I'd highly recommend that one. It has adjustable sensitivity the options between audible and vibration alerts and not only works well but it's very durable. Sometimes I'll float down Rivers on the bottom and the heavy current and thing bounces off all sorts of stuff. Plus it's USB rechargeable so on the way to the dive site you can just let it charge in your car and be good to go.
Whats the metal detectors name and thas it stil work?
Just the Amazon cheapo one. No real name brand as they are sold under various names.
You should rubberised silicon in case you need to service it instead of glue....
Great Idea! Maybe next time I can but since I have a much better one and this one isn't a primary, I just permanently sealed it because I don't plan on repairing it if it breaks again.
@@MNDashcam what one do u have now?
That's why I don't buy cheap, I buy to detect and not so I can worry and repair.
How did the "O" ring become missing in the first place ??
Cheap and broke under normal use.
I'm up to my 2nd one, I keep getting water in em
Try sealing it up.
@@MNDashcam One gives a flash when I connect it up. I just pulled it open. It is white n salty.
@@ozventure3822 sounds like the board has corroded. If you get lucky you can clean it off and it might work but it might be too late
I tried the 2nd one n its beeping randomly , I will give it tlc and seal it. Thank you so much
@@ozventure3822 any luck? Did you tear it open?
Problem with your method although sealing the heck out of the rubber seal in the long run is good, it won't work over time if water gets in on the battery compartment side.
Reason why? The insulated stranded wire acts as a Capillary tube. Pushing moisture through the insulation of the positive and Negative lead wires as heat and cold create higher pressure on one side and lower pressure on the otherside until both sides equalize on each cavity on both sides of the rubber plug.. Moisture will be pushed back and forth into the cavities.
To fix this problem cut the wires on both sides push two thick solid solderable wires seperated on opposite sides of the rubber plug, wires should be very tight going through. Then hookup the solder twisted insulated wires to to solid wires in the rubber plug on both sides. Reinstall plug Using electrical silicone or good all purpose plastic, rubber and metal epoxy on rubber plug, wires and plastic cylinder.
Now you should have a resonable water tight seal to your electronics board. Only the battery end will be subject to electrolysis which will only damage battery connection and can be replaced if rubber O-ring leaks moisture into your battery compartment. As long as you have extra length of the solid wire on battery side. You can replace the 9 volt cable connection if needed.
To make the O-ring seal better use a little silicone grease and remove cap and battery after use to dry out if water enters the battery cap compartment and with battery removed this will stop the electrolysis process.
This is a similar method I used on UCLA ground magnetometers buried in the ground around the world.
Junk!