Thanks John. I’ve watched a ton of videos on tuning and arrow flight. This is the best video I’ve seen. It covers everything with simple common sense explanation. I’m saving this one to my hunting videos for future reference.
Thank you. Still learning. Have owned my SR6 two years now. Still tuning. I’ll keep at it till it’s as good as can be. I killed a nice buck in 2020 but I’m still not shooting it as well as I’d like with the time I have. I’d just like to say to those learning. Give yourself some grace and keep trying. It will get better.
I’m shooting the SR-6 also . I have 2 xpedition bows I am digging on too ! Nothing comes close to my SR-6 at long range. I’m out west , no white tails . I see guys pass on deer in the mid west that would be my buck of a lifetime here. Many tv guys say 40 yards is their limit. Some guy say 30 yards was his limit (what?!?) I saw a tv guy had a bruiser at 35 yards and he passed because it was beyond his 30 yard limit. Fish & Game law here says a legal hunting bow has to fly horizontally for 130 yards. Here the deer will stop and look at you at 65 to 80 yards , if you can’t make that shot .... you get nothing. Shoot , tune ,practice improve . Repeat year round. If you can do that you are winning !! Keep watching each shot and figuring it out. You’re doing great . God Bless your efforts !!
One thing I have found that greatly helps that you did not mention is nock tunning! Each arrow, just like a fishing rod, has one side that is stiffer. The vanes if commercially placed may not have the cock vane aligned with the arrow spine. If everything else is adjusted well I can shoot a field point fine but the broadhead goes 3-4" left or right. Turning the nock to align with the next vane and shoot again until you find the particular vane that puts the field point and broadhead together. More expensive high end arrows often account for this. Still I like all my vanes one color so I can nock tune and use a permanent marker to identify cock vane. The broadhead insert can be not exactly positioned to the spine so as head screws in each head has a different angle at full draw. Nock tunning just seems to help me bring broadhead and field point together for each individual arrow. Thanks for a great video.
I'm glad you brought up forgiveness in a broadhead. A lot of folks think that all broadheads are the same if your bow is properly tuned. This isn't true because no one can honestly say "I will never shoot a broadhead at an animal with less than ideal form". Even with a well tuned bow, at 300 fps, I can move a Wasp broadhead a few inches at 40 yards (right or left) just by barely changing grip pressure/angle. I've tested it and larger broadheads and less forgiving broadheads move even more with the same inputs. The slower the bow and the closer the shot the less it will matter. Also, the better you shoot the more likely you will notice a point of impact shift. So, bow tune cannot make up totally for broadhead forgiveness until everyone achieves perfect form that does not change no matter what animal is in front of you, whether you are in a tree stand or not, etc.
Hi John. Been lurking in the background watching your content as a 20yr shop technician. I have to say that during this particular video I found myself often finishing your sentences. My father was an engineer with NASA and I acquired some of his technical methodology, and I was a med student and phys-ed coaching double major in college. When the opportunity was presented to me 20 years ago, I opened an archery specialty store to pass along my knowledge of the technicalities of archery equipment and shooting form to others. If there are two things that I think are most often corrected at my store, the first is proper hand position on the grip of the bow to reduce "torque" which affects every aspect of how the bow transfers energy through the center of the arrow, and second is what is a properly tuned bow...or system of equipment, to maximize the ability of the bow to deliver a straight arrow. I don't have anywhere near the animals you have in my collection (yet!) as I took a less prosperous occupational path to pursue my entrepreneurial aspirations than my original course to become a physician. I do however, have hundreds and hundreds of customer pictures and stories of their accompanying adventures which I feel partial credit for :). Thanks for the video. We may differ in our choice of equipment for the job, but we concur on the methodology. I often wonder if I should've started a youtube channel for the shop some years ago when I was filming to do what you are doing, but the camera is shy when I am in front of it.
Doing archery deer for the first time this season. This video was helpful for me. I want to use a fixed blade because I want maximum penetration. 65 lbs 26.5 DL, I’m not producing a ton of speed, so I like the idea of a cut on contact with my set up, and also love tuning my bow. I just know that my bow tune will have to be perfect with a fixed head. Thanks for the info, and your BH reviews.
I have found that, the bow can be tuned perfectly, but the arrow won't be, arrow tuning is just as critical, the biggest problem is, most guys, don't know how to tune the arrow, and most Bow shops are clueless to tuning the arrow. I love that you're doing this, in the future, I would love to see a video, on each of these topics.
For me its all about achieving (and maintaining) that perfect paper tune. Then I can screw on and shoot anything given the weights match and the length doesn't change my arrow spine too much. Muzzy 3 blade, slick trick, T-loc, Snuffer, Montecs all group the same for me. I hunt eastern mountains so only practice to 40 yds, though. I love hearing your insight. Your experience is highly valuable to your viewers.
Great bit of advice! Thank you for sharing. I'd like to add in "nock tuning" when you're bare shaft tuning. If you twist the nock a tiny bit it'll change the angle that the arrow flies. Keep shooting and twisting the nock after each shot until it shoots straight.
John, great video. One thing I'd add about broadhead tuning, you are saying to chase the field point impact with your rest. I've always found that a left nock tear will cause the broadhead to plane right. So you move the rest to the right and the field point and broadhead have the same impact.Any time I've ever moved my rest to follow the field point, they never get closer together, it just beigs the broadhead to center(like moving your sight)
I had the same problem, so I asked a tech at the bow shop I go to. He told me that one of two things could be wrong. The spine of the arrow or the tip weight. This is what I did, I went up in spine and changed the vane from a four to a three (with a "AAE Tue Helical"), which moved my foc up, and than I was able to see the change. I didn't change my point weight, but that was going to be my next thing to change if that first thing didn't work. I hope that this helps you.
Agree 100% with everything except the overspined statement. Modern bows with true center shot risers and the ability to tune make over spine a non issue. You really can get optimal arrow flight with an arrow that is over spined or even off the chart over spined. Look at some of the high end target arrows and the only option for spine is super freaking stiff. Either way great content a lot of people need to watch this video!!
I started as a kid with fixed blade broad heads some 30 years ago then switched to mechanical because they shot so much more consistent. Now I went back to fixed blade heavy single bevel that I can get scalpel sharp because they consistently do the most damage to large game. I have not been able to get mechanical broad heads to do the same amount of damage every time weather I hit bone or some other obstacle in the animal or in route to the animal it has been very inconsistent. Well tuned bow with good heavy super sharp broad heads has been way more consistent for me. Great video just wish I would have known all this 30 years ago Lol tuning my bow better would have saved me alot of money and frustration.
Great explanation of bow, arrow and broadhead tuning. Really well done. Wish I'd have been able to watch this explanation 40 yrs ago. Would have saved a lot if time, money and frustration. Had to learn by trial and error. I hope bow hunters watch the entire video as it's important to learn this information to not only increase accuracy but also lethality. It would be nice if a hunters safety course was required for biw hunters and this video was part of the curriculum. Much of the info you presented also benifits crossbow hunters in regard to the arrows chosed and how they are set up and briadhead flight/choice. Again, really a great video
Great video and very comprehensive. I did skip forward a few times and unless I missed it, you didn't touch on nock tuning. Shoot any arrow with a fixed blade and rotate the nock giving each vane a turn as the cock vane and the arrow will hit 3 different spots in a triangular pattern guaranteed due to one side of the arrow being stiffer than the other!
Nice overview John! All are huge factors that need to be addressed before going on the hunt. Without it the hunt can get frustrating, or worse, unethical.
Great video!! I’m still 3-D shooting my foam deer at 100 yards with my SR-6 set at 68 pounds and I finally decided to try the comfort setting on the disc’s. Noticeable difference in speed and aiming height . But I’m digging it on the range. I shoot 27.5” draw so our hunting rigs have a lot of similarities.... so I have never tried the Bishop arrows only due to the price. If I tell someone the price of those arrows, it sounds like science fiction 😅 Someday I’ll try a few. God Bless !!
Back when I came up we sighted in and practiced with a field point then resighted in with broadheads. LOL also back then you really had to check the spin. aluminum arrows could slightly bend and you might not notice it. And wood arrows... lots of fun.
@@LuskArcheryAdventures Well I just did my SIK F3 accuracy test out of my Bear Paradox at 25 yards. 2nd time doing this. Field Tip accurate. My Bow/Arrow setup likes this Fix blade setup.
I don't know if this was said in the comments, but when I broadhead tune, I start with the broadhead then field point. That way, I don't have to refletch the arrow. I always broadhead tune, even if the bow is tuned properly, that way I know if I have to go up in spine or down in spine if I can't get it to hit in the same spot.
You forgot about the very important aspect of tuning the arrow itself. Every shaft has to flex the same coming out of the bow along with the other things that you mentioned to get the best flight. This is done by either nock tuning or flex tuning every arrow.
I've seen some tests at 80 yards, I think, out of a shooting machine. Some heads do shoot better than others. The best were just over an 1 inch, with most getting 2-4 inch groups.
@@LuskArcheryAdventures I’m very intrigued by that new 344 sharpener from stay sharp. It’s an very good idea! Was it hard to keep the broadheads getting evenly sharpened?
Great video, question - when bare shaft tuning should the weight of the fletching be added to the rear of the arrow using tape to keep the arrow equal to a fletched arrow?
Thank you so much John! My 16 year old daughter and I are setting her a pair of bows. Both for hunting and school competition and this is like Gold. She is shooting low poundage 50-60lbs with a 27 inch draw so we're working on setting her up with 600 grain total weight 6th day arrows with 22 foc using the tooth of the arrow xl (4 blade 175 grain) I have actual deer carcasses to test this on before we to hunt live deer eventually but am curious of your opinion on this set up for adequate penetration. The goal of course is a full pass-through.
50 pounds is plenty to pass through a deer with that kind of arrow weight and foc. I would recommend looking up ranch fairy on TH-cam, he is a wealth of info.
Mr. lusk I have a question, I watched this video in its entirety. I was intrigued when you got to the bare shaft vs. fletched flights, after that I went and shot my bow. I have only shot it with fletched arrows until just now and always felt like it shot great. I shot a bare shaft and in flight it was very noticeable that my bare shaft was far right to my fletched shaft. My bow was paper tuned at the pro shop with my fletched shafts and shot well, and my cam timing was perfect. My question to you is, can I achieve the proper bare shaft tune by adjusting the rest in the same exact way as you explained when it came to broad head tuning? Thanks for the wealth of information you consistently provide us with.
Yeah, theoretically, the bareshaft should have the same point of impact and same angle of impact as the fletched shaft. But vanes and fletching are there to make up for what's lacking in perfect arrow flight. Grip has A LOT to do with that as well. My bow is very well tuned, and my arrows are very well spined, but I have to make sure I don't get sloppy in my grip. The SLIGHTEST tweak to my grip and my bareshaft hits at a weird angle. That's why I always keep a bare shaft in my practice quiver, to make sure I'm consistent and they are flying just like my field points.
Yeah, I've considered it, but I don't own a crossbow and it would take a big investment of time and money to dive into it enough to be helpful. Maybe in the future. Thank you for suggesting it.
I’m curious to hear your thoughts on specialty turkey broadheads such as the Magnus bullhead and others and if you have tried to shoot those. I shoot standard 125grain single bevel cutthroats for big game very accurately but struggle slightly out to 25+ yards with the bullheads. Jw. Appreciate your videos man great info
Ok, the correction in other comment was pretty minor thing. Anyways, important subject and you did really cover all aspects of the issue. Consistent form never gets enough attention somehow. I guess it's easier to buy things than admit you are the problem. Would be actually interesting video and good to show people how poorly broadhead penetrates when it doesn't fly straight, maybe even fixed and mechanical both. Shoot them in gelatine, push the rest to side a bit and let's see the difference. There are even shops around here who'll tell you're overthinking things if you try to make BH and FP hit the same because they aren't skilled enough to help you achieve that.
This was awesome! Thank you! One question I have is how do cutouts help or hurt on fixed blade broadheads? They decrease surface area, but possibly affect the aerodynamics of flight? Any thoughts or recommendations there? Thank you!
Good question Nico. I have not found any advantage or disadvantage in flight between vented heads and non vented, all other things equal--except the non vented are quieter in flight and of course they are more durable.
Yes, for sure. And they are even improving it, from what I hear. But they hold up well. SBs are never fun pulling out of a target, but when I shot the IWs, they did fine. You can also use my discount code LUSKFIVE for Sevr targets, if you don't have one yet.
On a big surface broadhead like the day 6 broadhead do you recommend a 4 fletch or a long and big three fletch with lots of helical? Btw I've been waiting on a video like this for years.... Thank you
I like a Helical Blazer...I use an Arizona Mini Fletch and put a helical twist on 3 Blazers. That works as well as 4 straight vanes and is a bit lighter.
Not like it really matters to the overall explanation of the video, (which was great btw) but spine is measured with a 1kg (2.2lb) weight hung dead center in ths middle of 26" of shaft. Little fun fact
I think I did talk about helical vanes, cause that's what I use. But I don't think single beveling makes a quantifiable difference in flight, unless they're super thick blades...but maybe it does. Thanks for mentioning it.
Mr Lusk do you square up your arrow shafts on a device. I swear it's made all the heads I've shot shoot like lazers. What is your opinion ? How good are cutting machines at keeping arrows square?
I bareshaft with a wrap and electrical tape that weighs as much as my 3 vanes wrapped on the shaft where the vane's center of mass would be at. So, the only thing changing is just removal of vanes, no balance or weight change. I only bareshaft through paper at close range and then go to broadhead tuning. I find that bareshafts at 20 or more yards are so hypercritical that you are getting more input on microform variation than you are bow tune.
You are backwards on your broadhead tuning explanation. If a broadhead hits to the right of your field point you move the rest to the right toward the broadhead. If the broadheads impact right that would be a left tear through paper fletch to the left tip to the right which makes the broadhead plain right of the field point. Sooo to correct a broadhead impacting right of field point you make the same correction you would for a left tear which is move the rest to the right away from the tear if it was paper and toward the broadhead if your broadhead tuning. You chase the broadhead not the filed point unless it’s a vertical issue then it’s opposite Down for high impact up for low impact
Thanks for sharing that Terry. Actually, from my experience, it can go either way. I usually start as I've described, as that's what I was taught...and if that doesn't work, then I go the other way.
Broadhead tuning can help most people's bow tuning problems and they don't have a clue they even have a problem I been there lol get a big cut fixed head like a Simmons landshark and put on most people's bows and it's gonna be ugly and they will tell you there junk but they sure ain't lol
When tuned up right most bows shoot most broadhead combinations good providing the shooter isn't torking horrible probably easier to broadhead tune up a bow and fix alot of issues people don't even know they have lol
They both fly very well out of a well tuned bow with a properly set up arrow. But all other things equal, a smaller cut size/surface area will typically be more forgiving. So in that sense, the Hurricane would get the edge.
Mr. Lusk, thank you very much for this video and all the good work you do. I must however point out that to correct the broadhead/fieldpoint grouping, you would move the rest towards the broadhead, and not towards the fieldpoint. Only for up and down variances would you have to follow the fieldpoint though. Below is a link to a video that explains it the best from all I have seen. Confusing at first but it works. This concept is frustrating to the point where many people move back to mechanicals out of frustration from not getting it right. Hopefully this link helps so we all learn a bit more. Best. th-cam.com/video/cTI1TGFJYJM/w-d-xo.html
The problem with bh tuning is once you get it dialed in with one arrow, you have to start all over with your second one....now you have to change the sight again and never get it right...just shoot mechanicals and be done with it!
Hmmmm...if I changed arrows, then I find it's worth re-tuning. Mechs will usually have the same poi as field points, but if the arrow is not flying well out of the bow, that can be deceptive and hinder penetration.
@Lusk Archery Adventures I noticed in some of your Videos, You used multiple Flashing colored Nocks, Which Nocks are those? and were can I find them? I'm getting older eyes aren't what they used to be those would be great for arrows.
Those are the Deepower nocks; I did a vid test of them recently; it's there on my channel, it was not too long ago. They're really inexpensive as well.
Yes Sir! You nailed it! Wish you made a video dedicated to crossbow bolts... Thank you much for sharing! 👍👍👍
Thank you. Maybe I will do that in the future.
Thanks John. I’ve watched a ton of videos on tuning and arrow flight. This is the best video I’ve seen. It covers everything with simple common sense explanation. I’m saving this one to my hunting videos for future reference.
Thank you Matthew!
Thank you. Still learning. Have owned my SR6 two years now. Still tuning. I’ll keep at it till it’s as good as can be. I killed a nice buck in 2020 but I’m still not shooting it as well as I’d like with the time I have. I’d just like to say to those learning. Give yourself some grace and keep trying. It will get better.
Well said, Gary!
I’m shooting the SR-6 also . I have 2 xpedition bows I am digging on too !
Nothing comes close to my SR-6 at long range. I’m out west , no white tails . I see guys pass on deer in the mid west that would be my buck of a lifetime here.
Many tv guys say 40 yards is their limit.
Some guy say 30 yards was his limit (what?!?) I saw a tv guy had a bruiser at 35 yards and he passed because it was beyond his 30 yard limit. Fish & Game law here says a legal hunting bow has to fly horizontally for 130 yards. Here the deer will stop and look at you at 65 to 80 yards , if you can’t make that shot .... you get nothing. Shoot , tune ,practice improve . Repeat year round. If you can do that you are winning !! Keep watching each shot and figuring it out. You’re doing great . God Bless your efforts !!
One thing I have found that greatly helps that you did not mention is nock tunning! Each arrow, just like a fishing rod, has one side that is stiffer. The vanes if commercially placed may not have the cock vane aligned with the arrow spine. If everything else is adjusted well I can shoot a field point fine but the broadhead goes 3-4" left or right. Turning the nock to align with the next vane and shoot again until you find the particular vane that puts the field point and broadhead together. More expensive high end arrows often account for this. Still I like all my vanes one color so I can nock tune and use a permanent marker to identify cock vane. The broadhead insert can be not exactly positioned to the spine so as head screws in each head has a different angle at full draw. Nock tunning just seems to help me bring broadhead and field point together for each individual arrow.
Thanks for a great video.
YES! Thank you so much for adding that. I completely forgot that.
I'm glad you brought up forgiveness in a broadhead. A lot of folks think that all broadheads are the same if your bow is properly tuned. This isn't true because no one can honestly say "I will never shoot a broadhead at an animal with less than ideal form". Even with a well tuned bow, at 300 fps, I can move a Wasp broadhead a few inches at 40 yards (right or left) just by barely changing grip pressure/angle. I've tested it and larger broadheads and less forgiving broadheads move even more with the same inputs. The slower the bow and the closer the shot the less it will matter. Also, the better you shoot the more likely you will notice a point of impact shift. So, bow tune cannot make up totally for broadhead forgiveness until everyone achieves perfect form that does not change no matter what animal is in front of you, whether you are in a tree stand or not, etc.
I know, nobody talks about that all. That drives me crazy.
Yep. Completely right.
Hi John. Been lurking in the background watching your content as a 20yr shop technician. I have to say that during this particular video I found myself often finishing your sentences. My father was an engineer with NASA and I acquired some of his technical methodology, and I was a med student and phys-ed coaching double major in college. When the opportunity was presented to me 20 years ago, I opened an archery specialty store to pass along my knowledge of the technicalities of archery equipment and shooting form to others.
If there are two things that I think are most often corrected at my store, the first is proper hand position on the grip of the bow to reduce "torque" which affects every aspect of how the bow transfers energy through the center of the arrow, and second is what is a properly tuned bow...or system of equipment, to maximize the ability of the bow to deliver a straight arrow. I don't have anywhere near the animals you have in my collection (yet!) as I took a less prosperous occupational path to pursue my entrepreneurial aspirations than my original course to become a physician. I do however, have hundreds and hundreds of customer pictures and stories of their accompanying adventures which I feel partial credit for :).
Thanks for the video. We may differ in our choice of equipment for the job, but we concur on the methodology. I often wonder if I should've started a youtube channel for the shop some years ago when I was filming to do what you are doing, but the camera is shy when I am in front of it.
What a great comment. Thank you!
This was a really good and easy explanation of a difficult subject. Excellent work! Greetings from Sweden.
Thank you, brother.
Thank you for the video. I never knew just how much work could go into arrow placement and alignment. Very good information.
Thank you Bob. I really appreciate it.
Lots of great information here. There is so many guys who wait until season gets here then they shoot.
Thank you Mikey.
Thanks John, I really appreciate your effort put into your videos!!
Thank you! I really appreciate the encouragement.
Man, how I wish I would have watched this video about a year ago. Great info throughout .
Thank you! Glad it was helpful.
Doing archery deer for the first time this season. This video was helpful for me. I want to use a fixed blade because I want maximum penetration. 65 lbs 26.5 DL, I’m not producing a ton of speed, so I like the idea of a cut on contact with my set up, and also love tuning my bow. I just know that my bow tune will have to be perfect with a fixed head. Thanks for the info, and your BH reviews.
Thank you. I wish more people would watch that vid; it has some really good info in it. Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for this. It took a lot of videos for me to understand what you just put in one spot. This is also the best argument for more FOC I've seen yet
Thank you Neil!
I have found that, the bow can be tuned perfectly, but the arrow won't be, arrow tuning is just as critical, the biggest problem is, most guys, don't know how to tune the arrow, and most Bow shops are clueless to tuning the arrow.
I love that you're doing this, in the future, I would love to see a video, on each of these topics.
Thank you Tim!
John, Great Video! Very informative and will be very helpful for beginner and experienced archers.
Thank you sir. I really appreciate it.
For me its all about achieving (and maintaining) that perfect paper tune. Then I can screw on and shoot anything given the weights match and the length doesn't change my arrow spine too much. Muzzy 3 blade, slick trick, T-loc, Snuffer, Montecs all group the same for me. I hunt eastern mountains so only practice to 40 yds, though. I love hearing your insight. Your experience is highly valuable to your viewers.
Very good. Thank you!
I shoot 340 spine full metal jackets. Wt 100 grain Nap HELLRAZOR fixed blade broadhead. They fly great. And pack a punch. Nice review
Very good. Thank you
Great bit of advice! Thank you for sharing. I'd like to add in "nock tuning" when you're bare shaft tuning. If you twist the nock a tiny bit it'll change the angle that the arrow flies. Keep shooting and twisting the nock after each shot until it shoots straight.
Yes. Thank you! I should have mentioned the weak side of arrows.
I love this video and refer back to it often.
Thank you!
John, great video. One thing I'd add about broadhead tuning, you are saying to chase the field point impact with your rest. I've always found that a left nock tear will cause the broadhead to plane right. So you move the rest to the right and the field point and broadhead have the same impact.Any time I've ever moved my rest to follow the field point, they never get closer together, it just beigs the broadhead to center(like moving your sight)
I had the same problem, so I asked a tech at the bow shop I go to. He told me that one of two things could be wrong. The spine of the arrow or the tip weight. This is what I did, I went up in spine and changed the vane from a four to a three (with a "AAE Tue Helical"), which moved my foc up, and than I was able to see the change. I didn't change my point weight, but that was going to be my next thing to change if that first thing didn't work. I hope that this helps you.
Thank you for sharing that.
Agree 100% with everything except the overspined statement. Modern bows with true center shot risers and the ability to tune make over spine a non issue. You really can get optimal arrow flight with an arrow that is over spined or even off the chart over spined. Look at some of the high end target arrows and the only option for spine is super freaking stiff. Either way great content a lot of people need to watch this video!!
That's a great point. I do prefer a stiff spine as well.
I started as a kid with fixed blade broad heads some 30 years ago then switched to mechanical because they shot so much more consistent. Now I went back to fixed blade heavy single bevel that I can get scalpel sharp because they consistently do the most damage to large game. I have not been able to get mechanical broad heads to do the same amount of damage every time weather I hit bone or some other obstacle in the animal or in route to the animal it has been very inconsistent. Well tuned bow with good heavy super sharp broad heads has been way more consistent for me. Great video just wish I would have known all this 30 years ago Lol tuning my bow better would have saved me alot of money and frustration.
Thanks for sharing that!
Great explanation of bow, arrow and broadhead tuning. Really well done. Wish I'd have been able to watch this explanation 40 yrs ago. Would have saved a lot if time, money and frustration. Had to learn by trial and error.
I hope bow hunters watch the entire video as it's important to learn this information to not only increase accuracy but also lethality. It would be nice if a hunters safety course was required for biw hunters and this video was part of the curriculum. Much of the info you presented also benifits crossbow hunters in regard to the arrows chosed and how they are set up and briadhead flight/choice.
Again, really a great video
Thank you Frank!
Great video and very comprehensive. I did skip forward a few times and unless I missed it, you didn't touch on nock tuning. Shoot any arrow with a fixed blade and rotate the nock giving each vane a turn as the cock vane and the arrow will hit 3 different spots in a triangular pattern guaranteed due to one side of the arrow being stiffer than the other!
Thanks for sharing that.
@@LuskArcheryAdventures thanks for taking the time to make great videos!
Nicely explained!!!!!!
Thank you.
Helpful information, thank you for sharing sir !
I'm glad it's helpful. Thank you Joseph.
Nice overview John! All are huge factors that need to be addressed before going on the hunt. Without it the hunt can get frustrating, or worse, unethical.
Thank you Nick!
Great video John.
Thank you sir.
I enjoy your videos John god bless you and keep up the good work
Thank you Gary!
Great video!! I’m still 3-D shooting my foam deer at 100 yards with my SR-6 set at 68 pounds and I finally decided to try the comfort setting on the disc’s. Noticeable difference in speed and aiming height . But I’m digging it on the range. I shoot 27.5” draw so our hunting rigs have a lot of similarities.... so I have never tried the Bishop arrows only due to the price. If I tell someone the price of those arrows, it sounds like science fiction 😅 Someday I’ll try a few.
God Bless !!
Haha. Thank you Mike!
Great video brother! I tell folks the same all the time.
Thank you!
Back when I came up we sighted in and practiced with a field point then resighted in with broadheads. LOL also back then you really had to check the spin. aluminum arrows could slightly bend and you might not notice it. And wood arrows... lots of fun.
:) Thanks for sharing that.
I can understand that.
This is just outstanding information.
Thank you Thomas. I wish more people would watch it; it really is helpful info.
@@LuskArcheryAdventures Well I just did my SIK F3 accuracy test out of my Bear Paradox at 25 yards. 2nd time doing this. Field Tip accurate. My Bow/Arrow setup likes this Fix blade setup.
My old bow was so well tuned that a bare shaft flew true out to 60 yards... Didn't bother tuning that well with new bow lol...
Thanks for sharing that, Fred.
Outstanding
Very well done
Thank you Tim!
I don't know if this was said in the comments, but when I broadhead tune, I start with the broadhead then field point. That way, I don't have to refletch the arrow. I always broadhead tune, even if the bow is tuned properly, that way I know if I have to go up in spine or down in spine if I can't get it to hit in the same spot.
Okay. Thanks for sharing that.
Excellent vid!
Thank you Soren.
Well done
Thanks Jack.
Awesome video!! U nailed it.. Perfect explanation 💯 👍👍👌
Thank you Jeremy!
Good video….one pet peeve though, fletchings don’t steer arrows, they help stabilize them.
Yes. Thank you.
You forgot about the very important aspect of tuning the arrow itself. Every shaft has to flex the same coming out of the bow along with the other things that you mentioned to get the best flight. This is done by either nock tuning or flex tuning every arrow.
Thank you Greg. Great catch. I appreciate you sharing that.
Great video
Thanks Bobby!
I've seen some tests at 80 yards, I think, out of a shooting machine. Some heads do shoot better than others. The best were just over an 1 inch, with most getting 2-4 inch groups.
Yep. I've seen those tests as well. Surface area and blade configuration do make a difference.
Great video John 👍
Thank you!
@@LuskArcheryAdventures I’m very intrigued by that new 344 sharpener from stay sharp. It’s an very good idea! Was it hard to keep the broadheads getting evenly sharpened?
Great video, question - when bare shaft tuning should the weight of the fletching be added to the rear of the arrow using tape to keep the arrow equal to a fletched arrow?
No, I don't worry about that at all. It's so relatively minor.
Another great video!
Thank you!
Thank you so much John!
My 16 year old daughter and I are setting her a pair of bows. Both for hunting and school competition and this is like Gold.
She is shooting low poundage 50-60lbs with a 27 inch draw so we're working on setting her up with 600 grain total weight 6th day arrows with 22 foc using the tooth of the arrow xl (4 blade 175 grain) I have actual deer carcasses to test this on before we to hunt live deer eventually but am curious of your opinion on this set up for adequate penetration. The goal of course is a full pass-through.
Thanks Paul. That's a great set up for deer. Will generate a lot of momentum and penetration for sure.
50 pounds is plenty to pass through a deer with that kind of arrow weight and foc. I would recommend looking up ranch fairy on TH-cam, he is a wealth of info.
How on earth does this only have 6k views
Well, it's only a few weeks old, but THANK YOU! Please share it with others :)
You forgot to mention one thing on form any type of punching the trigger can really affect the Back of the arrow
Good comment. Thank you
Mr. lusk I have a question, I watched this video in its entirety. I was intrigued when you got to the bare shaft vs. fletched flights, after that I went and shot my bow. I have only shot it with fletched arrows until just now and always felt like it shot great. I shot a bare shaft and in flight it was very noticeable that my bare shaft was far right to my fletched shaft. My bow was paper tuned at the pro shop with my fletched shafts and shot well, and my cam timing was perfect. My question to you is, can I achieve the proper bare shaft tune by adjusting the rest in the same exact way as you explained when it came to broad head tuning? Thanks for the wealth of information you consistently provide us with.
Yeah, theoretically, the bareshaft should have the same point of impact and same angle of impact as the fletched shaft. But vanes and fletching are there to make up for what's lacking in perfect arrow flight. Grip has A LOT to do with that as well. My bow is very well tuned, and my arrows are very well spined, but I have to make sure I don't get sloppy in my grip. The SLIGHTEST tweak to my grip and my bareshaft hits at a weird angle. That's why I always keep a bare shaft in my practice quiver, to make sure I'm consistent and they are flying just like my field points.
I would like to see you do tuning on a crossbow
Yeah, I've considered it, but I don't own a crossbow and it would take a big investment of time and money to dive into it enough to be helpful. Maybe in the future. Thank you for suggesting it.
Very interesting, merci beaucoup !
Thank you!
I’m curious to hear your thoughts on specialty turkey broadheads such as the Magnus bullhead and others and if you have tried to shoot those. I shoot standard 125grain single bevel cutthroats for big game very accurately but struggle slightly out to 25+ yards with the bullheads. Jw. Appreciate your videos man great info
HUGE fins up front with th those guillotines. Consider more steerage from longer/bigger fletching and/or lower poundage. Might be more forgiving.
I prefer to use the biggest mech I can find for turkeys, then just aim for the body--Like a Grim Reaper Whitetail Special, Vortex, etc.
Sometimes that wont-work though sometimes your cams have to be moved and general just to get a proper tune
Yes or course, cams may have to be moved, or shims added or cables twisted.
Ok, the correction in other comment was pretty minor thing. Anyways, important subject and you did really cover all aspects of the issue. Consistent form never gets enough attention somehow. I guess it's easier to buy things than admit you are the problem. Would be actually interesting video and good to show people how poorly broadhead penetrates when it doesn't fly straight, maybe even fixed and mechanical both. Shoot them in gelatine, push the rest to side a bit and let's see the difference. There are even shops around here who'll tell you're overthinking things if you try to make BH and FP hit the same because they aren't skilled enough to help you achieve that.
Very good. Thank you
This was awesome! Thank you! One question I have is how do cutouts help or hurt on fixed blade broadheads? They decrease surface area, but possibly affect the aerodynamics of flight? Any thoughts or recommendations there? Thank you!
Good question Nico. I have not found any advantage or disadvantage in flight between vented heads and non vented, all other things equal--except the non vented are quieter in flight and of course they are more durable.
@@LuskArcheryAdventures That's informative. Thank you for the response!
When are you getting on a podcast?
I do want to get to that at some point. Thanks Austin.
@@LuskArcheryAdventures I see all these other you tubers going on podcasts I think you have more experience and probably more stories than those guys
Yup would be good! #springbear
Thanks for this explanation. For broadhead tuning my Iron Will single bevels. Is SEVR target feasible?
Yes, for sure. And they are even improving it, from what I hear. But they hold up well. SBs are never fun pulling out of a target, but when I shot the IWs, they did fine. You can also use my discount code LUSKFIVE for Sevr targets, if you don't have one yet.
On a big surface broadhead like the day 6 broadhead do you recommend a 4 fletch or a long and big three fletch with lots of helical?
Btw I've been waiting on a video like this for years....
Thank you
I like a Helical Blazer...I use an Arizona Mini Fletch and put a helical twist on 3 Blazers. That works as well as 4 straight vanes and is a bit lighter.
@@LuskArcheryAdventures so if you ever decide to use four vanes you go straight?
Morning John
Hey Barrett :)
Not like it really matters to the overall explanation of the video, (which was great btw) but spine is measured with a 1kg (2.2lb) weight hung dead center in ths middle of 26" of shaft. Little fun fact
Yep. Thanks for sharing that Zach.
You didn’t say anything about single bevel heads and the correct helical feather or vanes make a difference?
I think I did talk about helical vanes, cause that's what I use. But I don't think single beveling makes a quantifiable difference in flight, unless they're super thick blades...but maybe it does. Thanks for mentioning it.
Very good video
Mr Lusk do you square up your arrow shafts on a device. I swear it's made all the heads I've shot shoot like lazers. What is your opinion ? How good are cutting machines at keeping arrows square?
Yes, that makes a big difference. I have it all done at the shop though :)
I bareshaft with a wrap and electrical tape that weighs as much as my 3 vanes wrapped on the shaft where the vane's center of mass would be at. So, the only thing changing is just removal of vanes, no balance or weight change. I only bareshaft through paper at close range and then go to broadhead tuning. I find that bareshafts at 20 or more yards are so hypercritical that you are getting more input on microform variation than you are bow tune.
Very good.
You are backwards on your broadhead tuning explanation. If a broadhead hits to the right of your field point you move the rest to the right toward the broadhead. If the broadheads impact right that would be a left tear through paper fletch to the left tip to the right which makes the broadhead plain right of the field point. Sooo to correct a broadhead impacting right of field point you make the same correction you would for a left tear which is move the rest to the right away from the tear if it was paper and toward the broadhead if your broadhead tuning. You chase the broadhead not the filed point unless it’s a vertical issue then it’s opposite Down for high impact up for low impact
Thanks for sharing that Terry. Actually, from my experience, it can go either way. I usually start as I've described, as that's what I was taught...and if that doesn't work, then I go the other way.
It blows my mind that people can shoot 100yds with a fixed broadhead. We have variable trades where I live so only mechanical broadheads beyond 60yds.
Yeah, perfect conditions are one thing; actual are another.
Nice
Thank you!
Broadhead tuning can help most people's bow tuning problems and they don't have a clue they even have a problem I been there lol get a big cut fixed head like a Simmons landshark and put on most people's bows and it's gonna be ugly and they will tell you there junk but they sure ain't lol
Completely agree. In my recent test of the Landsharks, the shafts touched at 40 yds.
When tuned up right most bows shoot most broadhead combinations good providing the shooter isn't torking horrible probably easier to broadhead tune up a bow and fix alot of issues people don't even know they have lol
What flies better kudu or ozcut hurricanes??
They both fly very well out of a well tuned bow with a properly set up arrow. But all other things equal, a smaller cut size/surface area will typically be more forgiving. So in that sense, the Hurricane would get the edge.
Mr. Lusk, thank you very much for this video and all the good work you do. I must however point out that to correct the broadhead/fieldpoint grouping, you would move the rest towards the broadhead, and not towards the fieldpoint. Only for up and down variances would you have to follow the fieldpoint though. Below is a link to a video that explains it the best from all I have seen. Confusing at first but it works. This concept is frustrating to the point where many people move back to mechanicals out of frustration from not getting it right. Hopefully this link helps so we all learn a bit more.
Best.
th-cam.com/video/cTI1TGFJYJM/w-d-xo.html
Well, actually, that movement of the rest can work one way on one head and another way on another head. Thanks for the comment.
Are you saying that you take 100-120 yard shots?
In perfect situations, I have.
Thank you so much!!!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching & commenting.
1/18 of an inch huh? What kind of a ruler measures in 18ths???
Haha. I meant 1/16th :) I realized that after I said it. I was thinking 1/8th and 1/16th and combined them to 1/18" :)
@@LuskArcheryAdventures lol. We all do it. Very informative tho. Cheers!
Time to go “metric”...just this once😆
They all have to be tuned.
yep.
Thank You, this video is nice checklist for proper arrow flight. Hope to go hunting, when we will win a war(hello from Ukraine)
Thank you
If someone actually asks "does a broadhead fly like a field point" make sure you're not talking to a 10-yr old. Who asks that?
Haha. I get it all the time.
The problem with bh tuning is once you get it dialed in with one arrow, you have to start all over with your second one....now you have to change the sight again and never get it right...just shoot mechanicals and be done with it!
Hmmmm...if I changed arrows, then I find it's worth re-tuning. Mechs will usually have the same poi as field points, but if the arrow is not flying well out of the bow, that can be deceptive and hinder penetration.
If you're having to adjust from one arrow to the next you need to reevaluate your bow tune and form.
Tune the bow to the arrow and then meticulously clone each arrow to one another.
No fixed flies like Fd. Pts!!! Period!!!
Well, not exactly that's for sure. But they can get close.
Thank you very much for Doing these VIDEOS and teaching us, that have Questions, but can't seem to get hardly any answers.
Thank you!
@Lusk Archery Adventures I noticed in some of your Videos, You used multiple Flashing colored Nocks, Which Nocks are those? and were can I find them? I'm getting older eyes aren't what they used to be those would be great for arrows.
Those are the Deepower nocks; I did a vid test of them recently; it's there on my channel, it was not too long ago. They're really inexpensive as well.
@@LuskArcheryAdventures Thank You For some reason I am not getting all your videos recommended to me its just random.