DIY Power Drawbar for a Bridgeport Style Mill - Part IV
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ม.ค. 2021
- #bridgeport #powerdrawbar #diy
Finally! The final episode. With some modification to the design and some new parts the MkII version of the power drawbar is complete. Check out some of the machining for the remaining parts and marvel at the simplicity of the design and operation of this useful accessory for a knee type milling machine. You can check out Steve Smith's amazing work on Instagram at / sgsengineering
The STL files for the PDB patterns and the 2D drawings for the entire build can be downloaded from www.dropbox.com/sh/f2uj8t9k9h... (let me know if this link doesn't work). - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
“It’s simple, it’s effective and it works”! ............ It’s also flippin’ beautiful 🤩
An outstanding design and execution. A fabulous project to follow.
What an absolutely splendid project and an addition that must make your machine preen with delight each time you use it.
I have been using the PDB for over a year now and I rarely even think about it any more. It just works.
Regards,
Mark
Gday Mark, this works perfectly, it also looks good as well, I’ve enjoyed this build, it’s been very informative and educational, thanks for sharing mate, cheers Matty
Glad you enjoyed it Matty.
Regards,
Mark
I feel like you really went after this one, action packed. It was like a vendetta for it not working before. Kudos. Always funny to hear the birds trying to scream over you too! :)
Raymond, I wasn't going to let it beat me. The birds are quite vocal at the moment.
Regards,
Mark
Mark, im just getting into machining and have come across your channel. Your videos and simple clear guidance is fantastic. After all the work you have put in, to give the plans away is unreal. Looks like ill be binge watching all your videos!! Keep up the good work it really is appreciated.
Thanks. It's good to have you on board. I haven't had any issues with the power drawbar since I installed it but I have added an in line oiler. It should extend the life of the impact wrench.
Regards,
Mark
Mark, beautiful Mark II DIY PD. It's so enjoyable to watch you at work. Thank you Cheers..... 👍👍😎👍👍
Nice work Mark. You've got to be happy with that mate. Cheers, Aaron.
Yeah, got there in the end!
Regards,
Mark
We had to make one of those bottle opener as an apprentice in the 60’s !🤣🤣👍
Nice work. Enjoyed the journey.
That's great, well done. Thanks for sharing
Just watched this series, and I'm impressed! Nice, nice work!
Thanks. I get used to the idea of being able to make very quick tool changes on my mill. If I had to go back to the old way of doing it with a spanner and the spindle lock, I think it would drive me crazy.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark, Love your channel and watch it all the time. love the bottle opener!
Beautiful project result Mark, and a well thought out operation in the end. Enjoyed, cheers!
well done Mark!
As always, you have made a fantastic looking and functional tool. Keep up the good work, and don't fret over the Bozo moments, we all have them even when not filming.
All your builds are so well thought out and clean!!! One of my favorite channels
Wow, thank you!
Regards,
Mark
Great job mate.
Thank you for the drawings. I will be building one for my mill.
I really enjoyed the whole video series. I love the way you go into the design process in your videos. Making one of these is definitely in my future when I get my Bridgeport back together.
Top work Sir!!
Good one, thank you for sharing.
That power drawbar is a work of art! I love the level of fit and finish and the well thought out design. When I grow up, I want to have casting and powder coating facilities in my workshop (I'll need a bit more space first). :-) Looking forward to the Kurt vise video.
Yes, there's so many processes and tools that it would be lovely to own. My own personal "want" is a CNC router but I too have run out of room. I did buy a 20' shipping container and installed it at the rear of the shed. It was supposed to be a sort of annexe for tools and equipment that didn't get used every day. At almost exactly the same time the concrete footings set, my son decided to move to New Zealand and my Mother in Law moved in with us. Within days the container was full of other peoples stuff. 😭
Regards,
Mark
Great job Preso! It looks like a bought one! Great videos. Keep up the good work. 😎
Very nicely turned out! I enjoy your vids, and like that you put in some of your local wildlife. I have a butterfly impact such as you used that has laid in my toolbox for 30 some years I hope to use it much like you did for my bench mill.
Ok - got it.... Brilliant! Thanks for sharing. Now out to the workshop to start building. 👍
Have fun! That's what it's all about.
Regards,
Mark
Mark even though part of the system is manual it's still a very nice setup. If someone would like to make the plunger portion maybe an old Plunge Router frame would work. I'm going to look into that and try to replicate what you have. Once again very nice. Love it.
The rise and fall mechanism is exactly how the plunge router works. If you could find a scrapped router it would be fairly easily adapted.
Regards,
Mark
Nice... with good function . Doesn't matter if you have to use two hands you got it to work and mesh cleanly good job... i like the powder coating touches.
Nick, I am a big fan boy for powder coating. I bought the kit from Eastwood years ago and it's the best money I ever spent. The finishes you can get are almost unlimited and it's hard and durable and there's almost no cleanup at the end. You will see in my next video a very nice red lollypop finish which is super hard to replicate in paint. With powder coat it's one application and 15 minutes baking time and it's done.
Regards,
Mark
Off-the-shelf power drawbars are dang expensive - $900 for my mill, and I just couldn't, feeling guilty about spending that much on something I wouldn't use everyday. I tried designing and building a "real" power drawbar (one with an internal piston) but it got so involved and only worked "meh" that I gave up. I like the relative simplicity of yours, and its open frame means that if there's no compressed air, it's still usable. That's important.
I haven't found any real issues with the one fitted to my Bridgeport. I did add an inline oiler to the air motor since you sort of forget about it once it's installed. One a few occasions a tool or collet will get stuck but a quick tap with a plastic mallet will free it up. However the whole unit needs to be removed or at least swung to one side if I want to use my 90 degree angle drive. The quill needs to be extended quite a lot to attach it and you need a long socket to get to the drawbar and tighten it.
Regards,
Mark
Brilliant
Nice one.
Great video. Nice engineering and fabrication. 20:30 had no idea these marking tools existed. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Hello Mark, very interesting video and thanks for posting it. I have just started out and maybe when I have gained some more experience with the mil I'll have a go at this project. Lots of learning to do first though. Regards Gareth
G’day Mark and Mark 2. Looks good, hey we never make mistakes, they’re just Research and Developmental testing.
Cheers
Peter
That's right. If it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet!
Regards,
Mark
Great video... The Mark III version should make it so the lock mechanism is triggered by the reverse action of the main lever, then springs out of the way when the lever is moved into neutral-eliminating the need for two levers. You might as well take it up to that level, as the rest of the machine is so beautiful! :-)
Oh, now you're making my brain hurt! Like most of my projects, once I get it working I lose interest and move on to other things!
Regards,
Mark
Tolle Idee und ein lehrreiches Video.
Grüße aus Deutschland und bleibt Gesund.
Harald
Harald,
Ich bin froh, dass dir die Build-Serie gefallen hat.
Grüße,
Mark
I Like your method for rounding the ends - I'll take that one :-) Nice job Sir 👍
It's the next best thing to having a honking great rotary table!
I wish it were my idea.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I like your method too. I've always done it the "unsafe" way by clamping a bolt/pin in the vise and swiveling the part into the cutter by hand, always with a very high pucker factor! Of course, you can only do that if the part is long enough to have a built-in handle. I don't as yet have a rotary table, so I'll start using your method for now on!
Oh man that's almost too nice :-)
Hello Mark thank you for your PDF. Ps. Keep up the great work you do Thanks (Just to let you know downloaded ok)
Oh, OK. Thanks for letting me know. Another viewer said he was having problems. I can rest easy now.
Regards,
Mark
Very useful project. Up until now I’ve just released the top nut a couple of turns a hit it with a hide mallet. It works but isn’t as high tech as yours.
I saw that Myfordboy video too and had my partner buy me one for my birthday. She was grateful that we’d sorted out a present during lockdown, I’m difficult to buy for at my age and because I had to get my notes out to refresh my use of a vernier gauge, I had a lot of satisfaction using it. Reasonable price too. Regards.
Peter, just do me a favour and withstand the temptation to use your nice digital caliper to scratch marks on some crusty old steel. Every time I see someone do that on TH-cam I want to scream. I'm glad you got the same tool that I use - all thanks to Myfordboy!
Regards,
Mark
Great video,you need to couple load/unloading of your tooling so you have a free hand ,maybe use a pneumatic ram instead of springs
At the same time I was working on this build, a guy I follow on Instagram (@sgsengineering) was building a similar design. He went way further than I did and his version is fully pneumatic and works very well indeed. Mine was sort of a pneumatic "lite" version but it is still working quite well or at least way better than having to reach way up to the top of the spindle with a spanner.
Regards,
Mark
Does it have a lockout so that you can't accidently start the mill while the power drawbar is engaged? In my experience, there is no such thing as "too much" idiot proofing.
David, sadly, no. There's no interlock. If the idiot operator forgets to unlock the impact wrench it will just free wheel. I guess you could fit a ratchet and a clicker to it to alert said idiot operator. The version that Steve Smith built does have an electrical lockout function but his brain is much bigger than mine.
Regards,
Preso
Nanny state measures, sometimes they really need to be in place.
I have worked with some clueless people, I'm sure others have thought the same of me too! LOL
I used to be young and dumb, I'm not young anymore..
One idea would be to connect a latching mechanism to the first handle, in such a way that it only latches when it activates the unthreading of the drawbar.... i.e when the leaver is turned to one side... I think it could be done with a simple linkage... or even sompler... extend the leaver up to the crossbar, and make it catch under the bar when it is tilted to operate the pneumatics, and release when in neutral, it will then keep the machine pushed against the bar during unthreading and then be released when the tool drops down... then it could be one hand operated and spring back when not unthreading... and thereby be somewhat idiot proof.. great vids btw... greetings from Sweden.
I tell ya what... I have three rotary tables ranging from 12" in diameter to 18" in diameter. It's just simply not worth the effort to clean, hoist, lock down, and dial in for a couple parts. I used to try to leave one setup, but the work wasn't there to justify it.
Great work on the power draw bar! Looks store bought.
Thanks. I now have a large 10" rotary table that was given to me by a friend. It has never been used and I have it sitting on top of a steel mobile trolley that holds my rotary phase converter. The top of the frame is more or less level with the mill table so I can slide the rotary table on and off fairly easily but as you say, it's a lot of work to set it up for one job. I guess there are some things that it's really good for but I haven't needed it yet. Nice to have though!
The drawbar is still going strong. I don't give it a second thought any more. It just works and I can't imagine not having it there.
Regards,
Mark
Excellent! Very nicely done! It looks like the machine came with that from the factory. Good design, super cool execution. What more can you ask for? (And the video includes jungle noises from creatures in the yard to boot!) thanks for sharing.
Glenn, you are not the first viewer who has suggested that I live in a jungle! Interestingly, I am old enough to recall watching Jungle Jim (the TV series starring Johnny Wiesmuller) The producers would include the sounds of Kookaburras for some background atmosphere but they are exclusively Australian birds and absolutely not native to Africa. Having said that, Kookaburras have made it to Tasmania and New Zealand.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Ha! Cultural appropriation of native bird sounds by Hollywood! I was taken in by it.
Yay, victory over the taper!
I lost a lot of sleep over this one!
Regards,
Mark
Mark,
This is a brilliant design with some expert machining work. My only concern would be starting the threads of the drawbar into the R8 collet under pneumatic power. Is there any accomodation in the collets and or drawbar to assure that there's minimal risk of cross threading the threads when starting a new collet?
Thanks again for a great design and presentation. I look forward to copying it at some point that my own abilities allow such.
Scott
Scott, I too wondered if that was going to be an issue. Just about every other version of this tool starts the drawbar into the threaded hole under power. However, you don't really press down too hard when tightening the tool in the spindle. It sort of spins under light pressure until the start of the thread engages. It's also held in pretty accurate alignment so it's unlikely to get cross threaded. That usually happens when you get the axial alignment wrong. If the collet and the drawbar are co-axial it has to start correctly.
Regards,
Mark
Mark, can you give a link to information on the "marking gauge" that you saw myfordboy using? I need to set "notifications" for his channel since I'm already subscribed to him, otherwise I might already know about the gauge!
Edit: Never mind -- I read far enough down in the comments to where you said to search for "Caliper, 0-200mm Marking Vernier Caliper with Carbide Scriber." I found one on Amazon that is affordable. Thanks again for the information.
👍👍
HI MARK thanks for your detailed explanation I built one for a local milling machine sorry do not know how to attach a picture Mike Hervey Bay
Hi Mark
I've just discovered your tool ejector. I can see me doing that on my BP Clone.
I liked the "balanced cuts/feeds" I've often wondered at that?
On a bit of a winge now, marking out using the calipers is definitely right down there with Sodder (Solder) shits me something cruel!
I have seen quite a few otherwise good machinists marking out with a digital caliper and I can see the reasoning but I hate seeing it done with an expensive set of Mitutoyo's. I bought one of those cheap Chinese vernier marking gauges which can give you a resolution of about .05mm which is good enough for most applications.
Regards,
Mark
💯👍
Nicely done, as usual, Mark. May I suggest few improvements to this part - 1. Some electrical safety switch that is prohibiting spindle motor from starting while device in engaged position. 2. Latching mechanism requires seond hand - you pointed that already. If you will design something that is swinging down with gravity from the bridge and providing detend for the pneumo tool, holding it in lowered position. Question will remain - how to swing it back and make pneumo tool retract . But you can figure it out, can you ? :)
Gennady, my overall design brief was to keep the tool as simple as possible with as few parts as possible. I thought I had it right the first time but came undone when some of the tools stuck in the taper. The MKII version was easily adapted from the original but there are probably refinements that can be made. With regard to the electrical interlock, it really isn't necessary. If the impact wrench were accidently left engaged on the drawbar it would just free wheel. Probably it would lead to some increased wear and tear but it wouldn't break anything.
Regards,
Mark
Any details on the nw marking tool would be great
Just search on Ebay for "Caliper, 0-200mm Marking Vernier Caliper with Carbide Scriber."
Regards,
Mark
Ripper!
Looks great! Have you turned on the machine yet with it locked down? I am sure I would....
The pneumatic motor would just free wheel. I have seen some designs where the impact wrench is permanently engaged. I am not sure how long the vane motor would last that way. If you have an oiler in the air line it only delivers lube to the motor when the air is spinning the motor. I am hoping I am not so dopey that I leave the latch on permanently.
Regards,
Preso
I think it would be fair to blame the din of the lorikeets in your yard! Nice final product. Looks like a bought one!
Hello Mark,
Great project, I like the simplicity of design…
I have been holding of getting one of the marking out verniers until I have seen someone I respected using it who did not have an affiliate link… do you think you will use often?
Take care.
Paul,,
I am using it a lot now. It's so easy to pick up and set. If I had needed to do anything accurately before I would have to shift the surface plate onto my welding bench and then go and get the big digital height gauge. It comes with a spare carbide point too.
Regards,
Mark
Very nicely done! What software are you using to generate the 2D & 3D plans / models? Looks very professional. Thanks.
I use Autodesk Inventor for all my CAD work. I am a bit fortunate that I have a deal with Autodesk which was available to teachers who were involved with the F1 in Schools project. Even now that I am retired I can still access it since I do some mentoring with students from time to time.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Thanks for the info. Looks like a nice piece of software, unfortunately at retail it is priced well out of reach for a hobby workshop!
You can get a trial package for student/ learner/ non commercial use, ask around amongst the folk who use it, you'll be surprised at what's available.
Stavros
Might be a stupid queation. But can you make it so the lock engages when you pull the handle down? Similar to the spring used in pocket knife locks. That way its a one handed operation untill you need to release it at the end
I guess that would work. It does remind me of something an engineer told me once. "If it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet!" 😁
Hi Preso. I'm pretty sure that I've seen all these drawbar videos, but maybe not? I'm wondering why you need the 'left hand' locking mechanism. Will the drawbar not undo/redo just by you holding the righthand lever in the desired position?
That will also hopefully avoid the 'idiot operator starting te mill with drawbar tool engaged' situation.
Regards Mark in the UK
I did try holding the carriage down hard and then engaging the air and it just doesn't work. About half the tools will be ejected but the ones that stick seem to need a fairly sudden jolt to break them loose. The latch mechanism works well but you have to give the impact wrench plenty of run up and plenty of air. If you hesitate it will just jam up and then you have to break the tool loose with the spanner.
Regards,
Mark
Mark, may have missed this tidbit, but why not just pull down and activate on the right lever at the same time?
I tried that, believe me! For some reason it must need a hard stop on the mechanism to break the grip of the taper.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 So your taper is so locked in that you can't physically hold the butterfly impact down hard enough? wow .. well, you engineered a beautiful solution to that problem :) well done sir!
On my power drawbar the collet is ejected, when the drawbar starts to rise, by simply coming up against the bottom of the mounting plate.
Well, that would absolutely work. I am finding that about half the tools I own don't need to have the latch engaged to pop out of the taper. I still can't make up my mind if that is good or bad.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 thiis is more opinion than anything but, i would think you would want the taper to grab and hold. Without that you might be relying on the small pin, that keeps the collet from turning while tightening, to drive the cutter.
Where did you find that marking gauge?
I got mine on Ebay. There are tons of them, all the same, all made in China. Just search for 0-200mm Stainless Steel Parallel Marking Gauge Vernier Caliper W/ Carbide Scribe
Regards,
Preso
Mark - I have tried to access your DropBox file but haven’t been able to extract the files. It could be a problem this end in my DropBox - I’ll try to download again. John 🇬🇧
Ok, I'll look into it. If you send me an email at mark.presling@gmail.com I'll send them directly to you.
Regards,
Mark
WWCD? What Would Clickspring Do? 😁
Ha ha! Indeed! (He'd probably hand file the entire mechanism from one lump of metal with one had tied behind his back).
Regards,
Mark
whats that on the grinder at 06.30
It's a Scotchbrite deburring wheel. I have had that one for ages. They last forever and are quite dense. They are great for deburring and putting a fine grained finish on all types of metal. They also remove paint, oxide and corrosion. They aren't cheap but I still think they are value for money.
Regards,
Mark
Hi! It's possibile have a 3d step drawing?
Sure, try this dropbox link www.dropbox.com/sh/f2uj8t9k9hdlomy/AADNpvMN2PSmy8Rv8o4m5B1La?dl=0
I exported the entire assembly file in STEP format. If you want the pattern STL's they are in the same folder. You can still make the Power Drawbar without castings though.
Regards,
Mark
how much is a newton wrench???
Do you mean I torque wrench? The thing I like about the power drawbar is that it just works and I don't have to mess around finding a suitable socket wrench or spanner and I don't have to reach up to the top of the machine to find the end of the drawbar. It's a win for me.
Regards,
Mark
What happens if you forget to unlock the drawbar.
Bob, I am guessing you mean what happens if you forget to disengage the impact wrench from the drawbar? If you do leave the impact wrench engaged the pneumatic motor in the impact wrench will just free wheel. Long term it will probably wear it out prematurely but it won't break anything. It's not necessary to lock the spindle when operating the power drawbar. The hammer action does all the work.
I always thought Australians just opened beers with their teeth!
Most of us do but up in Queensland where Mark is from most of them have less than 2 teeth 😂
There is also a reason why Queensland’s favourite beer is called XXXX - that way they only have to learn one letter of the alphabet 😂
@@ianbertenshaw4350 LMFAO!!!
Steady on Ian! Them's fight'n words! 😁
@@Preso58
Sorry Mark , I just couldn’t help myself 😂
Must be that blue cattle dog blood running through my veins 😁
Hello I followed all 4 videos congratulations great job.
I would like to make this drawbar kindly could you send me the drawings thanks
greetings Valter
Italy
Check the link in the description of part 4 of the series.
Regards,
Mark