Get the MOST out of your component speakers with these tips! Car Audio
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2025
- When you install aftermarket component speakers you of course want to get the most bang for your buck. Installation and proper set up are important! What tips do we have for you to get the most out of car audio component woofers and tweeters? Let's discuss!
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Thanks for tuning in guys! If you want to learn more about how to choose speakers, check out this "Do's and Dont's" video on our channel - th-cam.com/video/rZcga_2NbqU/w-d-xo.html
You and your videos responsible that im able to do my SQ oriented install 100% by myself. From explaining from what crossovers are, to the videos on when or not ferrule or not ferrule the way out of cables. Always when i have a question your channel has got me covered just as much as the diyma forum. Thank you for your effort, your videos are a blessing to the sq community. Greetings
You are my audio guru, and I’ve learned much from you. I am still experimenting with the techniques and insights you've shared."💎💎💎
If you're going with aftermarket speakers, make sure to also invest in aftermarket amplifiers and a DSP. I initially thought I could save money by skipping these upgrades, and my new speakers ended up sounding much worse than the stock ones. However, once I added the DSP and amplified all 11 speakers, my car's sound quality transformed, making it feel like I was in a studio session. It made a world of difference. Keep in mind that if you're detail-oriented like I am, you'll likely find yourself tuning your DSP frequently until everything is dialed in just right. Although it can be costly, your ears will definitely thank you for it.
I got a bit serious when I did my last component set. The OE speakers weren't centered in the OE door grille so I relocated the woofer and built a baffle to place it for proper sound. The tweeters were easy, just 8" higher in the sail and angled up and rearward. It really brings the instruments onto the dashboard and makes everything feel like you're hearing it for the first time. The installation can really make or break the performance of great equipment. I was a JL rep for 9 years and two of my cars have full buildout JL systems. Recently, I used Focal speakers (with JL amp and sub) and have been very satisfied with the sound and performance. So has my wallet because JL has priced themselves ridiculously out of a realistic budget. I was an installer since JL had oval tweeters!
What up, Mark? Currently planning my 2nd build. You helped tremendously with my first!
Love it, thanks for chiming in. What was the last system and what's the new one?
About to install my first sub setup thanks for all the vids!
Love it! What gear you going with? Thanks for watching.
Hey Mark, I've watched this video over several times now. Looking over the comments, it seems I'm not the only one who isn't too sure on how to wire-up a component set active. Would there be a possibility that you make a video on the 3-way Focal set you have there how you would go about doing this?
You explained that perfectly as always! Long time fan!
Glad you found it helpful. 👍 Thank you so much for watching the videos!
Tips : whenever adding DSP. Make sure the crossover on the amplifier sets on full range (no Low pass or high pass) . That way. Dsp can utilize the whole frequency 20hz to 20k
Hi Mark. You say to run components active which I agree with, but how do you decide on power ratings for a woofer vs a tweeter? For example, the Focal PS 165 F3E has a 6.5”, 3” and tweeter, but the suggested power is 80W RMS (160W max). But surely you dont need to put 80W to the tweeter, right?
Love all your advice and I hope this is t a stupid question lol
@@MisterLarry-x1k v^2/ohm= wattage
I have this same question. I'm not a scientist or mathmatian. As much as i appreciate the answer given it didn't help me.
@@jordancouncil5583 what he is saying is that if you square the volts of the car (14.4 * 14.4) and divide that by the ohms of the speaker/tweeter (eg the tweeter in the Focal PS 165 F3E set has a nominal impedance of 4 ohm) then you will get the required wattage for the tweeter.
In my case…
(14.4 * 14.4) / 4 = 51.84W
Having said that, this doesn’t take on to account the speaker dimensions/use at all. If we apply the same logic to the 6.5” woofer in the same system (also 4 ohm impedance) then we get the same 50W number which cant be right.
So, to answer your question, I dont know either, sorry.
@@MisterLarry-x1k I believe this result to be maximum wattage of tweet and or midrange. However, a tweeter will probably never see 50-100w playing actual music. The 6.5 woof plays lower frequencies that simply require more power as you described. In my understanding these wattages are a maximum that should not be hit with regular music. I would worry more about the spl (keeping tweets very low) and carefully turning them up from there. The set crossover point will determine the “use case” for each driver.
@@user-rt2sm5ny5r ahh ok. So sure, put 50W to the processor, but the high pass filter will only let a certain range of frequencies through and these will always be lower than 50W because the “big heavy” frequencies have been filtered out. Got it.
Edit: I said to the professor, but obvs meant after
Hi Mark. I have bought myself AMT supertweeters as an addition to my Morel Supremo Piccolo's.
But I can't find anything about how to run them; separate channels or in parallel or series with the Morels?
Have you got any experience or can you make a video on this topic?
You've been very helpful during all the years since I'm watching all your videos.
Please discuss MOST bus.
Thanks for the video! That being said when doing an active system is there a good way to determine what wattage amp i should get and what max power to send to each individual speaker?
Hi sir how are you nice information
I was just curious if downfiring 10s or outfiring 8s would be better for under seat box in a 2021 silverado 1500
Yaaay!!
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If I purchased a kicker, 2-4ohm amp and my jbl component speakers are 3 ohm are they compatible? Also, the rear is 85w, but the front is 75w. crutchfield told me that was compatible, but I'm just getting a second opinion
Hey Mark, I just bought an Audison Forza amp with DSP to simplify my install. I want to go full active on all speakers. This made me think about power handling and impedance of my components. Obviously, I can use a multimeter to check resistance, but how do you know how much power your tweeters can handle? Say you buy a component set, with passive crossovers, and they are rated at 150 watts total. How much power goes to the woofer and how much to the tweeter? I have not been able to locate specs for this. How do you approach this? Thanks.
I have the same question
Would it be possible to hook up the passive xover from the comp set with tweet disconnected- play full range from source with pink noise at near max source volume, and then check voltage out of tweeter outputs on the passive? Not sure what else you’d need for the dsp other than impedance and v out. Fs of tweets would help but knowing the passive xover freq would get you in the ballpark.
lol, I just asked the exact same question. Should have read a little further.
Watching from Libya
Wow! Thanks for tuning in!
What’s a good Q setting for my subwoofer from the DSP was gonna start out with 0.7. Sealed box JL w8” 0.25 cubic ft.
Hi Mark! Love your videos! I just bought a 2024 Colorado TrailBoss and I am trying to get some subs and an amp for it. No one around here can give me an answer to this question and u seem like you are very good at this! If you had to pick 2 shallow 10 inch subs and an amp what would u choose? I just want to be able to play it loud and hear and feel alot of bass! Thanks!
10TW3 are regarded as some of the best shallow subs.
The C6 crossover looks almost identical to the C5 crossover. The cap on the C5 is 6uF, not 8uF and the resistor array had different value as well.
I'm confident that the inductors are different as well but those are not easy to measure.
So not identical? Haha
Hi, does a dsp fix noisy headunit RCA signal? Because i don't know why mine Is quite noisy
Front component speakers: $400
Rear coax speakers: $300
Door insulation, foam, mounting brackets, wave guides: $200
6 channel DSP amp: $1500
Mid-level head unit: $600
Amp wiring, fuses, mounting: $150
So we're looking at ~$3000 and a few weekends' time to just upgrade the midbass drivers and tweeters. This does not include adding a subwoofer, which would probably add another $1500 to the cost.
I also forgot to factor in $100 for RTA measurement mic, and $100 for remote/Bluetooth DSP controller.
dang i’m lost 😅
Can someone explain how a passive crossover helps the door speakers sound better than just installing a coaxial speaker?
@@cleonituk better cross over components is a big part of it, but more importantly is the slope. Most coax will have a simple 6db slope for the tweeter. High end component sets will have a 12 or more db slope for the tweeter and might even a crossover for the high side of the woofer. There are other options too like pointed out in this video such as an attenuation option for some sets
@jeffg4008 thanks for the info, i currently have a single jl w3 sub installed in a 2018 accord with everything else stock. Still trying to pick out speakers and another amp. Too many choices.
Its funny how this suddenly pops up when my deaf bounce MM-60 Neo driver just got fried due to the positive terminal of the actual speaker breaking off and touching the car body. I have been researching for new door driver and you make a video about exactly that😩
Oof! You may find this video about choosing speakers helpful - th-cam.com/video/rZcga_2NbqU/w-d-xo.html Thank you for watching
From Detriot (watching during lunch)... Do any head unit include DSP capability? if the desire is to not have an amp.
I have a pioneer dex-8800bhs its one of pioneers premier stereos from 2020. I paid like 220 for it new and it has the pioneer arc app that allows you to tune the front rear and sub channels independently and right from left on front and rear.
Im not sure how it compares to a actual dsp but for a amp less set up with simple aftermarket speakers nothing special it sounds better than anything ive heard so far.
Head unit manufactures will often list "internal DSP" as a feature, but in reality they are only providing this control over 4 channels at most. Even then the tuning flexibility is usually pretty weak. A dedicated DSP gives you FAR more options so that you can fully tune to optimize the sound.
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What’s the best quick disconnect for subs?
I found the SMD quick release box terminal but it’s $150.. I sometimes need to remove my sub box and quick disconnect would be convenient. Might have to bite the bullet and spend the $150
XT90
@ xt90 isn’t a good solution for me.. those pins are exposed to the elements and can short
Make a "dead end" with an XT connector to fill the plug if you are worried about it being exposed when disconnected.
@@CarAudioFabrication like a loop key?
I don’t understand why one would buy a dsp when this could be an app on a head unit?
There's waaayyyy more involved in a real DSP than just the interface. It needs to have nice DACs, caps, circuit board etc. If Kenwood Excelon and Alpine and others haven't figured it out yet, I'm certainly not putting any faith into a white box radio for $129.
@@tigerrider6711 for a few reasons. The first one i can think of is the built in one is limited to two channels meaning either have an active component set or have front and rear speakers, but not both
Because the app on the head unit isnt anywhere near as good and doesnt have anywhere near the same processing ability or sound quality
@@tigerrider6711 because old people prefers physical thinks vs apps
There are lots of reasons…the largest as always is cost. A vast majority of consumers wouldn’t use it as you would really need more channels and more power in the head unit to use it alone without an external DSP and/or amp which is why is more and more common to see them built into amps. Lots of people only replace radios and don’t do the extras that we do too and we need those people in the business/hobby in order to keep it going for us. Lots of head units are getting more of those features though
Is a dedicated DSP really needed these days? Most decent stereos already have a built-in DSP with time delays, multi band EQs, etc...
Do not fall for the marketing hype. I have yet to see a single head unit that really provides all the needed settings to fully tune a system. Also at most you are usually only getting 4 channels, maybe 5 of control, and that's with pretty weak equalizer options (often just graphic). If you have a 6 channel system (which virtually every car does now at minimum with active 2 way up front, rears, then add sub) you're going to need dedicated.
Kenwood can handle 2 way active and sub no problems to a amp. Read fill from head unit. I am upgrading to a dsp amp though cause different car and want to retain oem head unit and feed dsp amp directly from my phone via USB.