My Cheap Mercedes S550 Really Broke - Oil in Engine Wiring Harness Repair!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2023
- We have some serious oil in my cam sensor wiring harness. Can we fix it?
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#w222 #diy #fcpeuro #mercedes #mercedesbenz #mercedess550 #cheapcars - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![Changing 6 Fluids and 4 Filters to Make this Car Last Forever (hopefully) [Salvage S-Class Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i70M3-5XeBQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video Randy and Mike. Hey Randy did you call Alex from Legit Street Cars ? He owes you one, after helping him out with his Corvette.
Him and I had a deal and he backed out with no notice so I won't rely on him. He agreed on camera to have me flown to Chicago to assist in fixing the C4 up. He did it without me with no notice. Pretty sad really, I was a long time subscriber.
@@AutoAuctionRebuilds Thats not right. Just goes to show that its hard to trust people these days. Sad
@@AutoAuctionRebuildsthat is pretty sad .
Alex from LSC just isnt the same person he was after Peter left. I dont know what happened between those two but since Peter has been gone, his content isnt as good as it was. Plus I can sense a lil bit of "assholeness" from him. If you go to one of his videos where him, Peter and Max go to Kansas to buy Hoovie's red CTS-V wagon, as Peter gives the car the beans, look at Alex's facial expressions. They werent pleasant at all. I get that people go through things but dont let life hiccups hinder your work and talent. I unsubbed from his channel. The only way I stay subbed is if the content is good with humor and great knowledge. I love learning about all types of cars, foreign and domestic.
@@AutoAuctionRebuilds wow, I’m in Chicago, I’ll go break his knee caps for ya…….. just kidding, but I really am sad to hear that about him.
In Germany there is a specialized repair shop, which is even called by MB themselves, which offers special cable adapters to stop this from happening again. They are called Motoren Zimmer. The product is called Öl-Stop Kabel. They even have a TH-cam Channel very popular in Germany under MB fans. They simply know every screw in MB cars of the past 30 years or so.
yap, exactly, aber Du glaubst doch nicht wirklich, dass Randy Interesse hat, es RICHTIG zu machen, oder? Grüße
@@papapapa6689 Die Hoffnung stirbt zuletzt 😅
It's called stupid as sorry
@@papapapa6689 but he's already fitted four cable adapters in this video for the purpose of preventing any further oil wicking through the wiring
I vaguely remember this happening with transmission wiring on MB too. Oil would travel up the wiring loom, into the car can kill the TCM under the center console. Very weird problem.
This video was actually a lot of fun to make. Love love love that W222.
There was no time for monkeying around in this video for sure! Good times man thank you for all your help!
Did you hear that randy has an s class?
@@williamsinger4124 😂😂😂 I gotta get like him...I love Randy's jokes!
To get a perspective from somebody that used to be a Mercedes mechanic I was just wondering if you got a hold of Alex over at legit street cars he knows these babies inside and out and in fact doesn't he owe you one? The time you purchased the vet that he wanted so bad time to cash in
We had some plans but he didn’t come through for me so I won’t be asking for help on this one.
Hey, I was a German car mechanic for a decade. One thing about cam position sensor faults is they sometimes continuously get diagnosed as electrical issues when in reality they are a mechanical issue. Something like timing being slightly off, but not on the timing belt, rather camshaft to camshaft. There is a chain that connects the cams together that is also timed, usually by number of teeth between links. You can compare side to side or find repair manual information. These chains can stretch over time, and also the adjuster on the cam itself can spin causing the timing to be off.
If the issue is electrical, seeing as how the value remains pegged to a max value indicates either a short or an open circuit, you can check by doing a voltage drop from the sensor back to the control module. Or a resistance test at the very least. But the max value is likely a fail safe position based on a mechanical issue. Good luck and hope this gets to you.
I'm #15 like... Thank you for confirming this. If it is an open circuit just unplugging the sensor would give the same issue. Checking the wiring isn't rocket science. I am beside myself watching this.
The dynamic duo! Randy definitely has the Merc bug same as Mike 👍🏼 keep bringing those Euro Cars in the channel🎉
Hello Randy and Mike aka Monkey Wrench Mike. It's awesome that SP Euro that sent you the parts to fix your Mercedes S550. And sponsoring this video.
"Fluid migration" in the harness goes back to the 140 Chassis. We saw it frequently push transmission fluid up into the TCM. Seems to be a German thing because I also saw Mk 4 Jettas push coolant all the way to the instrument cluster 😂
As for the camera. Always make sure the radar disk in the grill and the windshield in front of the forward facing cameras is always clean. They can also act up in inclement weather such as rain or snow covering the rear sensors behind the bumper.
Piece of black tape over light problem solved
If left unfixed, it'll ruin the ECU.
Yep
I did it with my Opel Astra
And I have no issues anymore 😀
Best of all it's passed the annual inspection 😀
Hi Guys.
With an Ohm meter and the key off. Pull the connector off from a from a good sensor. Check the resistance between the sense wire pair on a good sensor. My guess it should be between 100 ohm and 1K ohm. Write the result down. Now compare the resistance measurement on the same two pins on the sensor with the issue. If the resistance measurement is the same the issue is with the connector. If the resistance is open or infinity or different by more than 5% I would suspect the DME. To verify DME is the problem and not the sense wire pair. Check continuity on the suspect wire pairs from the sensor connector pins to the corresponding DME connector pins. Patience and persistence trouble shooting wiring. You will find it, Get a schematic for the wiring harness. I would never pull the engine to solve this problem. My background is Jaguar engine management wiring harnesses and Aerospace wiring harnesses.
I like the videos when you're working on the cars. Much better than. The used car check up. At Copart.
They are a little more difficult to produce 😊
Disconnect the sensor and all ECU connectors. Then set the multimeter to "beep" for connectivity.
You then put one of the probes to a terminal of the sensor connector. Then draw the probe over all the terminals in the ECU connector, you will hear a short beep at the corresponding ECU pin.
And measure resistance. Compare to others.
Lol. Or just pay for a days license of AllData and save a ton of time and guesswork.
Oil is typically non conductive. You can run the electrical system while emersed in oil. It looks like you have a different problem. Maybe the engine is slightly out of time
i also think its timing issue. i had similar issues like this on a VW. i threw parts and cleaning at it hoping one would stick. i was running the VW with check engine light on. eventually the timing chain jumped or locked up. it happening after going up a steep hill at high rpm. who knows if that was the cause but thats my theory LOL.
problem is the oil will leach itself into the ECM harness
True, but you wouldn't have any symptoms, just a sticky mess. Oil doesn't conduct electricity
Randy! You, Santa and Mike should do a series like Car Trek with cheap cars!
Great idea!!
Exactly! Do a car trek with cars that people can afford and drive everyday. They can do some old 80s,90s and 00s cars. Some extreme high milege series. Do a series on get some ragged out cars from the auction in Indiana and see if they will make it back to Oklahoma. Yea, I think they would do great with creating a Car Trek type series. They can call it something like "Auction Clunkers" or "Back 2 Life".
I would personally absolutely love that because the 3 of them together are so good extremely funny they just bounce off each other it just works, A.A.R M.W.M AND SANTA'S WORKSHOP JOINED TOGETHER TO MAKE A SUPER CHANNEL DOING 1 OR 2 VIDEOS A MONTH ASWELL AS THEIR OWN PERSONAL CHANNELS OF COURSE WHAT A BEAUTIFUL THOUGHT IF I DO SO SAY IT MYSELF
Agree! Totally.
Use both cans of the electrical cleaner from both ends of the loom over a few days. Keep 1 end elevated so it can reverse drain to make sure it all comes out. It may take days.
After watching these videos I took my 2015 S550 with 96,000 miles into a shop to get the cam sencors changed and they found one that was just starting to leak. They cleaned it and told me it was caught in time. They also said it was a big problem. Thank you so much for your videos!
I'm glad you have good friends to help, but 15k is not necessarily incredibly cheap to most of us. 😅
This is a new-ish luxury sedan that was over $100k not too long ago. $15k is 1/3 the price of the avg new car price.
Good thing you had mike with you! So true Randy if it had no check engine I’d be real worried!
The proper technique on those is to remove the filter before or while draining the oil to allow that oil to run into the pan. You need only unscrew it and lift it up a bit and the oil will run down the filter drain. Otherwise there's a good amount of oil still up in the filter housing that doesn't get drained out.
I hope someone has a way of repairing the problem. The great part of course is that you prevented the problem from getting any worse. As always it's great to see you and Mike working on it together. Great and informative video as always. Thank you both.
Randy don’t care what the say you are a great mechanic. Love your videos👍👍👍
Ya he knows more than 99% of these chat pros 😂
Thank you
I'm no tech. But here is my thoughts. The value 46 deg is probably a max value that the car computer can handle and it throws a fault code. It is just out of range. And looking at the video that value doesn't change at all when engine running. Looking at FCP page the camshaft adjuster/sprocket is clamped with a bolt to the camshaft. Since it is be belived to have the timing kit done. The cam could be in the right position BUT the sprocket could have ended up in the wrong position (since it is variable) when installed, making the magnet? on the sprocket pass the sensor at the wrong time/angle.
To check the signal wiring for that sensor, cross connect the right hand sensor wire with the left intake cam sensor. Then you can determine if there is any fault in the harness. If you have a good reading there is no problem with the wiring.
This is correct. The value is at the maximum end and that's why it's fixed. This is not the harness but a mechanical issue
I would trace the tan/black wire from the sensor side, get as close to the computer as you can and replace it. It won't cost you anything but a piece of wire and a little time. Hopefully you don't need to de-pin and get all the way into the main harness.
Another fantastic video! I will look forward to see if you eventually figure it out. Hoping for the best.
Thanks For Another Good & Entertaining Video Randy & Mike Good To See You Wrenching Together In A Video I Always Enjoy The Road Trips & The Walk Arounds
Continuity check from the harness side of the sensor to the ECU. That way you get the correct wire. Splice in a jumper and check your issue. You'll either confirm your diagnosis, or may be a mechanical issue.
man the jokes and commentary you and MWM pull never get old i laugh all the time i hear you two guys toguether
Keep up the great work you guys. Doing a awesome job.
I dont have a euro vehicle currently, but FCP seems like a great company. The attention to detail they have is awesome!!
Definitely enjoying this series, Randy. Thank you. 👌🏾
Hey Randy, too bad, you can’t keep that Mercedes! Great to see the dynamic duo added again! You’re still the best!
it’s not like it’s ur only vehicle and u depend on it for everything. if u can’t keep it for good just keep it for a little longer and enjoy it. it’s a beautiful ride.
Loved the video! Great to see you two solving the worlds problems, one broken car at a time! :) Sick car too!
Love seeing you and monkeypox wrenching together! So frustrating all of that and still not fixed!
While unplugged from the computer and the sensor, do a continuity test to isolate all three wires. Test all 3 wires from plug to plug, and between those three circuts to check for short or any resistance issues. You can even compare readings from the other cylinder bank. Just use the same guage wires and same pins, replace those three wires, and you can do a factory repair. It's easy to de-pin the conecctors. I'm ASE master certified.
Go for the wire, don't give up @Randy.
Check to see if chain stretched by checking TDC if chain not stretched, change intake camshaft phaser.
Great Video, love watching your content from the UK. Keep the car :)
Thanks for the tips I just checked the plug harness on my S550 thankfully they are dry. I am about to order the harness extensions Just to stay on the safe side Thanks again.
Very smart
Thanks Randy keep up the good work for videos
Fcp is my go-to.
M278 is a great engine. WIS calls for oil extraction from the top. At least it does on my E550 anyway. Would have liked more details on replacing the hall sensors. But overall, a fair video.
the piece in the center of the grills is the distronic radar sensor for the cruise control.
been watching you for a while, happy to watch your videos very informative and funny believe it or not
Very enjoyable video and nicely done time laps, too - so cool to see you save these cars! Do you still need the pinhead for the ecu? I might be able to mail it to you - anyway, thanks for the great video!
That's a beautiful Mercedes and love watching thanks to both Randy and monkey pocs mike
Mike is the Best so funny now im going over to watch his new video Blessings..
Both of you, make my day...loved the video
Great couple here! I love Mike’s videos but the two of you make a great couple indeed! Mercedes has been doing the “clever” thing of putting the computer above the motor since 2007 (My 2007 C350 Sport has it in its M272).
Great laminar flow while draining the oil!
Nice looking car glad y'all saved it
Get ready to replace your driver side engine mount soon
Good luck with that 😅
You have two options recommended by Mercedes engine out or sub frame down.
Or you can take disconnect exhaust by down pipe and get access like that
Great video as always! Boy I hate seeing Mercedes being fixed bc they can be nightmares! Love the video. Love when MWM gets seeies and knoes his stuff 😂😂
Thanks to Mike the Mercedes doctor 😊👍
Yayyy wrenching on the Benz!!! It wasn't so bad 😀 edit: you could try tracing the wire, I bet you can do it and it'll work 🤘🏽🔥 You got this Randy!!!
Love your channel, Mike is a cool dude too, just subscribed to his channel too!
Expensive car with cheap plastic,Good job Randy👍
Made a quick interner search, Mercedes workshop online manuals seems to be available for a reasonable price. You should get your wiring diagram from there.
By the way, new terminals are probably available from Mercedes. I would have manufactured a completely new cable between the sensor and ECU. Only tricky thing, is to get the terminal disassembly tool for thw ECU connector terminals, but a Mercedes workshop should be able to remove the terminals.
Awesome video!
I’m a benz tech and I’m gonna be honest, that’s exactly how we do it. 8mm wrench and lots of patience. But I seem to remember those solenoids easily sliding in and out of the head. Weird you had to pry
Always something with the imports , I'm sure one of your viewers will have an answer , i would keep the benz as a company vehicle , need something nice to ride when your body needs a break , great content again and great company, MRM is a great addition to your channel , keep up the great work and laughs , peace
this case is pretty interesting. I wonder how you guys fixed. Every other video on here fixes it. By the way just subscribed. great content. is there a "part 3" video I cannot find?
That was a lot of work done but she is going to run like brand new now!!!
I told you last video, your camshaft has moved physically. You have a mechanical issue not electrical. M278s have issues with the camshafts sprockets moving from the cam itself. Your's just barely moved which is why its still running.
Check basic position of timing through the camshaft position sensor holes. Suggest also checking presence of oil at the motor electronics (ECU) on top of the engine.
@@bronzoso Dealers and shops bank on this issue, they throw the parts been at it and then find out they need a camshaft.
@@bronzoso he did that in the video
Randy i think you scared mike being aggressive with the plastic engine parts you know that Mercedes cars are Mike's babies great video loved every minute
Your friend who helped you fix your car he has a bouncy personality. Seems like a cool guy.
It’s going to take a few cleanings of the wires before it disappears. Been through this on my c180 w294 in-line four
They make some offset crowfoot wrenches for diesel injector bolts that would definitely work on that bolt
I had foreign cars when I was young trying to play like I had money, but them cars kept me broke, I only now drive American cars
Awesome show Thanks.
You guys are awesome. 😎👌👍
I'll say it's definitely not the problem of oil in the harness. My ML63 with the related M157 V8 had oil all the way to the main ECU connection. I never got any cam codes. Cleaned up both ends, replaced the cam sensors that were leaking through, no problems. Checked again after a few hundred miles and no new oil found in connectors. Previous comments from more experienced techs says the cam sprocket is out and cam needs replaced.
Take a multimeter and connect one side to the sensor, take the other end and connect to each pin of the computer harness. When you find one that reads a resistance IE 0 ohm (maybe higher if damaged) you have the pin that is used. Replace that wire with another (splice it in) and try, I bet the light goes out then
Reminds me changing the IVM on my 650i no play on the wiring harness on RHD. I bent pins plugging connectors back in from underneath blind, somehow I manage to straiten back up and plug em back in. I got lucky.
Good job
I enjoyed this video parts 1&2. I just (emotionally) bought a 2014 MB CLS550. With only 43k miles. I didn't think leaked oil would be an issue. This is a carmax warranted MB. Well 13 days into the purchase MB dealership flagged 1 top intake camshaft angle sensor having oil in it. The other 7 sensors I don't think were looked at, just the one. No check engine light yet. If I get all 8 camshaft sensors with their wire harnesses replaced. Should I keep it? Again no check engine light and carmax warranted. Should I walk awa
randy you shoud keep the mercedes s550 the engine is good to half million miles i love the music
What make and model is the new scanner? Looks awesome
Great content !
Ahh yess content for breakfast nice timing
Great content! I'm no expert, did you spray clean the wiring and then vacuum out, then repeat? Duct tape to shop vac each time? Just FYI, Crank on guys!
That is probably moved camshaft. M278s have issues with the camshafts sprockets moving from the cam itself. It needs to barely move which is why its still running but sensor is not reading values because its cannot reach reading disk.
That's it Rhandy! Do some more wrenching!!
'You auto remember this' (Mike)...... Hilarious.... Watch this episode. They are ON it.... And very very funny.
Thanks Frans!!
Not sure if this issue was ever resolved, but my guess is that it is, or was, a cam adjuster. Had the same issue on one of my cars, which had a different engine. Mercedes said it would cost up to $14,000 to fix depending on the issue. They also tried to sell me a used engine for $20,000. The car had 140k on it at the time. Took to an Indy garage and they said the issue had to be fixed by Mercedes. This was after I had already changed all of the sensors and magnets myself. Bought a new adjuster from FCP Euro, installed it and solved my problem.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 on your work on M Benz
Tell us about your scan tool. Lifetime apps? BiDirectional? Make Keys? Code new modules? Cost? Thanks.
Randy you did everything perfect except making a new jumper harness to replace the cam sensor wiring between the cam senor and the DCM. That would stop the check engine light from coming back on and the problem would be fixed.
Watching the oldish oil come out at the end was well strange.
It looked like a solid object.
Also What about any oil that was already half way up the wire ?
we have 2019 year s class, do you know if this still could be an issue? Tks for such videos!
Check your E55o cab same issues with oil wicking , FCPEURO has a sacrificial plug to prevent wicking to ECU
Great video
I was gonna say usually if you wash the car the lane keep assisting functions work fine after a power cycle
Wish I could help. Wiring issues are not new to me. I have saved quite a few wiring harnesses in my time, latest being the engine harness in my 94 Cadillac Sedan DeVille that mice ate through before I bought it.
It was a common problem on the W212 E class as well
Have you repaired it? When you did the first repair video I noticed the connector pins wire looked to wide its probably giving you the intermediate issue, if not do a resistance test from end to end
stretched chain , worn chain guide(s) lining (s) , hydraulic tensionner near it s endstroke , next step timing component breakage
That’s absolutely not the case the entire timing set is brand new
I would try spraying the sensor and ecu ends of the harness with contact cleaner and compressed air several times.
What is a Mercedes wire core made out of, Italian bread? Is it not copper core? How can engine oil foul a wire core? I’ve seen it short out circuit boards and sensors but never wiring. Transmission internal wires are submerged in tranny oil. Fuel pump wires are floating in gasoline. Is that just another planned obsolescence thing? What am I missing here?
Hi I'm new to your page. Thank you for putting this video on TH-cam. I'm kinda in the same boat.I have a 2014 ML 350 matic. Replace the coils the spark plugs the magnetic adjusters and the position sensors. Now I have an engine light with the engine running smooth Engine light code 393. I put the old position sensor back on and still have a code. Makes no sense. Gonna replace the sensors one more time and put the new ones back in to see, if the engine runs. The fist time I did it the engine was running rough and hesitated to start. Found out it was the battery.So I'm gonna do it one more time with the new sensor in from fcpeuro. My question to you. If the engine light is on after I change everything and its running smoothly can you still drive the car?
Could the sensor be moved a little bit maybe the pickup or is the timing off by only one tooth or maybe the computer has resistance in it from the oil just a guess.
Explain how does the oil that gets past connector insert destroys the cable harness. Does it erode the insulation and contribute to shorts? It would seem you could just replace the connector end.