Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
Just a tip from an old aircraft mechanic. Save the old pin and taper one end on a lathe and this makes a great tool to line the piston pin hole with the rod hole. Save it for the next one.
@waynejohnston2408 Hey Wayne. Serious question. If you use the old pin that you had to drive out.....as a guide to align the new parts..... Aren't you basically going to have to drive that pin completely through as you follow it in with the new pin? And couldn't it possibly damage the new bores if that old pin is just a smidgen tighter in the new parts than the old parts? I've seen great mechanics actually put a small chamfer right on the new pin without complication, which makes it a breeze to insert fully. Just asking. Have a good one! J Pol.
@@jpol3808 A) why would a worn used pin be larger than an unworn New pin? B) common sense would tell you to not do this with a used pin that is so trashed that it has raised burrs. C) you'll NEVER see a great mechanic put a chamfer on the new pin, FFS you have no idea how these parts interact, putting a chamfer on the pin that will be run causes a GIGANTIC problem with the method of retention.... Please don't ever attempt replacing a piston, over thinkers tend to come up with solutions to problems that don't exist, often with detrimental outcomes. This job is done daily on tailgates of pickups out in the woods.
There are pin press tools made for specific applications and for generic applications she doesn't use them so I doubt she'd use this method. No slight on her though, it's just more tools to keep track of and find when they're needed. Spend 5 minutes getting the tool as opposed to spending 5 minutes tapping out the pin with the tools you're using for the rest of the job.
Just a tip from an old machinist (just the tip ma'am): small 2 stroke pins are hardened close to 60 Rockwell on their OD... Have fun smoking cutters in your lathe. An old 3/8 drive extension will knock out damn near all chainsaw pins. You're welcome.
@@truracer20 Since your only trying to bash me and I had asked that man a serious question.... I'll still answer yours. A. Mass Production. Contracts changing hands and companies moving overseas, where production standards are not as critical as in the U.S.. Plus your dealing with 3 actual parts and 3 possible manufacturers.😞👎 B. You are correct. Don't use a trashed pin! Good job! 👏 and C. Great mechanics have and will continue to slightly 0.001. - 0.003. chamfer most anything! We're not talking about sharpening a pencil here!😂👎 Lastly... Stick to tailgates! Oh.... Look at the comment above 👆of using an old 3/8 drive extension. That's great! You see a truly great mechanic is past the level of having to bash others to be better than them. They are at the level of passing on what works well for them, to make you better! Lol. Thanks for bashing me though, It truly has been fun! 🎉 Ttyl!🥱.
Considering layover times we decided to drive from Utah to Virginia, saw the country, visited family and had a better time than if we had flown. Flying isn't what it once was.
Not quite a pre-EPA monster..the X-Torq versions of them(this is one of them) made from 2010 onwards, have significant redesigns to the top end(piston, cylinder, intake, different carb, etc.), because of having to meet EPA requirements...they are definitely not a "pre-EPA saw"..and also why the later versions seem to have more issues than the original versions....
I have never ruined a chain saw engine because I have never loaned out a saw and have always mixed my fuel rich with oil. The 372 XP old version is to me one of the best saws ever made. Fast chain over the bar and gobs of power. I have them down to the 5.5 lb. Echo and up to the massive top of the line Huskys, but I'll take the 372 XP to my grave.
Being a Husqvarna Warranty repair person its up to me to determine if it was a mechanical failure or operator error. Which means i have to carefully check everything before and during disassembly . Which includes crankcase pressure vacuum testing. As always a great video 👍.
Chainsaw performance cannot be tested by simply revving the engine up. A chainsaw may run perfectly until you put a heavy load on it. Then it may bog down and require more carb adjusting. 2 stroke engines of this type also have a maximum RPM. The high speed needle is used to set max RPM.
Stihl silver tech here, typically with a scored failure, you do a pressure and vaccum test on unit before tear down to find possible other issues that caused the lean failure, crankseals, cylinder gasket, intake manifold, etc. Otherwise you could end up with same failure again if it was compromised. And after you install your new top end etc, you do another pressure and vaccum test to check your work. Also that saw sounded lean in the video, you could hear how it was idling down she is sucking air somewhere
Without proper diagnosis the piston will score again. You must find the original reason it scored. Hole in the fuel line, hole in the intake boot, bad crank seals, whatever it is it must me found and fixed.
Yes. I could hear it was lean too. it bogged a bit when she hit the throttle and idled funny when she stopped revving.it. Those Husky cylinders with the removable transfer port covers are known to leak. but it could also have a bad crank bearing or seal. Also it looks like an XPW and not an XP with a piston like that
I did lots of those in 2005-2017 when I was a Husqvarna tech...have done a few since. I'm the first one to admit I despise doing pressure/leakdown tests, but a burned pro saw you are going to put back into service is the time to do one. That said, even if I KNOW the cause was straight-gas, I will usually put new crank seals in as insurance..don't want a comeback or to burn up a new $200 OEM P&C. I do remember, when the X-torqs were first introduced, we had a LOT of them come back burned up, almost new...lots of crank main bearing failures on those, which of course takes out the seals..if it's an X-Torq model, I definitely check the bearings and seals..also the x-torqs were known for having air leaks at the intake boot as well..all in all, I didn't care for the X-torq models, I'd much rather have an original design 372XP..the X-torq was basically a way to keep the popular 372 models in production, because the original design wouldn't meet EPA regs anymore..Everything on the X-torq on the top end was completely different/redesigned, and they have taller engine covers and handlebars than the OE version. Lots of customers didn't know the difference, and wondered why some of the parts from their old parts saws wouldn't fit their newer saws when they started to "Frankensaw" them...I always told them, if the compression release came up through the top cover, it's an X-torq...if the release is on the side of the cylinder, it's an original version 372. IMHO, they should have called the saw something else, like 374XTP, or something...but, they were trying to continue the popular 372XP saw without anyone noticing the changes, I suppose...
Darlin I love the way you explain it all in English in detail. You diagnosed the problem, got the new parts and even mentioned the prices plus tax! Lol... All in like 5 minutes, love it:-) okay going to watch the rest of the video now...
Regarding an RV vs airline. Great idea there's lots of places to go, see and do. DO NOT purchase an RV. Doing so is a great way to lose money to depreciation and discounting when time to sell. Depending on level of use I recommend you either rent for each trip or lease one for a specific time. Our experience was buying a used 45' repo bus with 4 slides. Pretty much rebuilt all systems to keep it on the road. Sort of like a chain saw, it's great till it's not then your at mercy of a dealer/repair who has too many in que for repair and they over charge for simple repairs. Good luck. Thanks for your Channel. I think your video' are awesome. Merry Christmas
Old school tip: use the original Slick 50 formula, now being sold as Xcelplus as assembly lube. It gives conventional lubrication for initial startup, and permeates the metal with Teflon like polymer after just a few seconds of running. This polymer will reduce friction nearly indefinitely in a 2 stroke or 4 stroke small engine.
I just love a woman like Chickie. So very smart. Great sense of humor. Beautiful. Hey where do we needy fellows find such a catch. Your spouse is one lucky guy !!!
I have rebuilt alot of husky 372's that sounded way too lean on the test run. Those xtorq's were noted to wear the low end bearings or case pockets out then the seals would leak. The big end conrod was blue. Which may mean the cylinder went bad from running too lean from an air leak.
I’ve had very good success owning Husqvarna over the years , 3 of them and I never lost a days work ! Jonsered 2065 was and still is one of my favorites, terrific chainsaw ! You did well on the repair and I learned a few things watching you !
Tech Tip for getting the piston re-assembled to the conrod: Turn the saw perpendicular to your line of sight, so your able to "see through" the eye of the con rod. Assemble the wrist pin on the blind side of the piston so that you can see the alignment as you work. Leaving the piston dry until just before cylinder installation makes for easier handling. I like a little engine assembly lube on the wrist pin needle bearings but nothing wrong with a bit of engine oil instead.
Glad you are back from South of the Border. Hope you had a great trip. As always, your videos are clear and well explained to help us avoid the pitfalls of 2 cycles.
Great video for saw owners who may be intimidated by a top end repair. Please do make the ring seating video! In a commercial setting where time is money, both P&C are replaced, but most often in this situation, the apparent scoring on the cylinder is actually aluminum transfer from the piston, and the cylinder can be cleaned up. The lean heat actually melts the surface of the piston. The plating of the cylinder is very hard and resists scoring. Aluminum transfer can be removed by muriatic acid (HCl) or saturated aqueous sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or flap sanding. Because muriatic acid gives off nasty fumes, I use NaOH on a Q-tip. It will foam slightly, dissolving aluminum and liberating hydrogen gas. This is followed by light honing. There are some good aftermarket pistons such as Meteor which are less expensive and generally regarded as OEM quality.
thank-you for your entertainment and knowledge. I'm almost 70 and have been wrenching on 2-smokers for over 50 years. Not only are you interesting, but you make it fun, ' Thanks again! -Matt
When I traveled to Japan, we had one hour to get from one airport to another to catch the next flight. During that hour, we had to claim our bags, clear customs, buy a bus ticket, find the bus, ride to the other airport, then check in at the other airline. Japan has a very efficient bus system, so we made the connection without issues.
Thanks. I have a Craftsman self-propelled push mower with a 4-stroke Briggs that may need this. Knowing to oil everything good and do the rings burn in helps.
As an arborist, I get so excited to see your chainsaw videos. I've run a lot of stihl and husqy and just bought my first echo, would love to see more saw rebuild content, especially tophandles and professional models.
Thank you for your explanation on this. I’ve learned so much from watching your videos. They have saved me time, money and frustration, for sure. Glad you had a good time in Mexico.
Oh my god your story is giving me flashbacks from our honeymoon!!!! American Airlines did the same thing to us in 2001. We arrived at the airport at the appropriate time. We were not informed of the change till we were at the gate. The crappy thing is the workers acted like it was to bad. Thankfully my new wife went full Karen on them and got us a flight back home, we got upgraded to first class. So it worked out for the best.
You did a great job! I have become obsessed with performing a pressure/leak test on all my 2cycle builds. Ya find small leaks in the strangest of places. I will say one thing…. Once you do a leak test the confidence level really goes up. And the engine will usually reward you with immediate starts and consistent and smooth idle and sharp response. Great video!
Hello Chickanik. I love too learn from you. My Husqvarna 242 almost 40 years old leaking oil, I think it’s the same problem you showed us in this video. I going out now and trying to repair my chainsaw. Thank you for your help. 😃❤️❤️
I think everyone should have an RV. After a couple of years, you’ll consider yourself a qualified electrician, plumber, carpenter, and HVAC specialist.😊
gotta love the 372's. the cast crankcase means you can rebuild them forever if you watch them. crank bearings and seals every other jug unless it doesnt pass a pressure test. newest versions fixed the muffler issues but the new muffler is not backward compatible (no screw holes in the crankcase) i always warned customers that all that piston and cylinder scoring may have got to the crank bearings. it was thier choice.
Appreciate the in-depth disassembly and re-assembly. As far as RVs... If you could find one with a small 2-cycle engine, you could easily repair it if it were to break down. Though I doubt it would ever make it out of a driveway 🤣 Seriously, you might consider a pop-up, small tow-behind, or truck bed camper. We like all 3 options for different things. My overall favorite (in theory since we don't have one) is the truck-bed type with pull-out sides. Not the biggest, but seems like the most flexible.
Great options and for many different reasons. My cousin who always vacationed with 8 or 9 people got a used small towable camper with a small eating and sleeping slide out. Since the camper was mainly to be used for sleeping, eating fast food on occasion or food off the Coleman stove and only hanging out in bad weather, he ripped out the kitchen, except for the upper cabinets, the closet, the refrigerator and stove (I think he added to the shower toilet space, some tote storage as well ) and converted all the open floor and wall spaces into sleeping areas with some shorter upper bunks with folding side rails for kids, that all folded up or back against the wall for more seating and table room. 3 kids and 5 or 6 adults could eat and sleep comfortably and shower and use the bathroom. He made an extra lockable metal storage bin for extra items, totes and necessities like paper plates, cups, cooking utensils, tools, rv supplies, outdoor games... beach toys, and a nice size cooler....because he also removed the fridge, And added a platform to hold it just above the rear bumper. It has its own fold up lockable ramp that folds down to roll it on and off the platform because it is on small wheels. They would drop the box at their garage and go park the camper in the storage lot, leaving the box home for them to restock and organize with all the necessities for their next trip. Then they would get the camper load up the box and go! Chickanic....You and your husband are very talented and could thoroughly inspect and find a good solid camper to convert, and in a couple seasons could easily do something similar for just 7 people that would be really budget wise! They always had the best of times taking that camper everywhere because it covered their most basic and costly on the road needs. Some people like the idea of camping and staying put inside the camper for days without stepping outdoors, but they were always in and out of that thing doing something and having fun because it was small, easy to tow, and could be used almost anywhere. Only did the weather ever hold them hostage inside. Good luck! I hope if you go that route that you decide put it on a channel for us viewers, because you not only are cool and great personality on camera, but there are lots of people who can't pin down the basics of a camper or motorhome and get in way over there heads on what they think they need to have, in order to have fun! Later! J Pol..
THANKS for this 372 video. I just put one together and you answered my question on where that 1 longer handle screw went for sure! 😅 Thanks! A saw rebuild series on different models could be an incredible addition for your channel maybe!
Just a quick thing.....I use to work in a small tool hire shop years ago..... Best little home made tool I made was a peace of wood...1"thick 1 3/4" wide and about 6" long with a 3/4" slot in it about 3 3/4" down middle. I can slot under new piston to aid getting rings into new pot. And with it been wood it won't damage gasket or pot and piston too. Keep up the great vids.
Do a thorough pressure/vacuum test on the saw before you give it back. Make sure the crank seals and or the cylinder gasket isn't leaking. Great video as always Chickanic, glad you're back.
I’m surprised you didn’t do a pressure test. I would have at least checked the PTO side bearing for play and the rod for play. Also that saw still sounded lean on the start up. Sounds just like a saw before it runs out of fuel. I can never just fix anything. I need to know the problem that caused it in the first place. But either way I did learn lots of stuff over the years watching your videos. And no matter what you do people will criticize. Including me haha
Hi Bre, I'm in total agreement with Robert here. Pressure Vac test at this point would critical in diagnosis as to whether you need to do a total teardown. Did you have more info from the owner? Many thanks.
Sounds like a saw when it runs out of fuel? 50 to 1 is only 2% oil that is all the lube everything gets so when it runs out of fuel it’s out of lubrication. That was the first thing I learned when first using chain saws. Never letting them run out. I’ve never scuffed a piston in 65 years of tree work. Mind you not all of it was 8 hrs. A day.
Love your running commentary and advice. Allow me to offer a few suggestions based on my own experience: 1. I have replaced the carbs on all my small engines (both 2-stroke and 4-stroke) with very inexpensive after-market products. Every one has worked perfectly. The caveat is that at less than $20 apiece I can afford to do it every year if necessary, and the job is so easy I can do it in less than an hour. So no worries about labor cost and down time in the shop. Obviously I don't recommend this approach for a non-DIY. 2. We travel outside the US frequently, so we have found that the government's Global Entry program is worth its weight in gold ($100 for five years). GE speeds you through customs and gets you into the US in a heartbeat. I can't help but think that might have enabled you to catch your connecting flight in DFW and saved you the Time, Expense, and Frustration that you had to endure on your return trip. That said, I am glad you had a great time in Mexico. I'm not a fisherman, but I do like Cuban Rum. Can't get Havana Club 7-year here, so we try to bring some home whenever we are abroad. Hope you all are having a good holiday season and a great year in your new shop.
Great video. On the RV topic I would strongly recommend renting various classes, A,B,C, travel trailer or a fifth wheel if you have truck to pull one. Rent before you consider buying. If you buy, never buy a new one. They are like cars and depreciate quickly. Also, RVs are one of the few things that you get what you pay for. There are just a few quality manufacturers. Avoid Camping World completely.
Watched yr Husky trip the a few days ago. Saw u mentioned Kubota . I have a zero turn. Best mower I have ever had. Was wondering why u have never done a video on repairs to them. Have mastered the saws and brush cutters thxs to u. Keep up the good work.
Hope you checked crank bearings for play causing air leak. Under side of piston burnt is sign. Definitely would recommend seals atleast and clean tank with new feul filter 🔧🔧 gas that come out looked like dirty paint thinner lol . Definitely recommend checking crank bearings and seals on saws or lean failure can happen again even if seems to run good after rebuild. Very nice job you're the best 🔧🔧🔥🔥🏁🏁 maybe you did check just dud show. I have a 575 on bench right now same deal. Was rebuilt few months ago just top end. PTO bearing spun causing air leak and burnt up again 😃
Huskys are bad about popping crank seals on the clutch side . There should always be a crankcase vacuum test done. Especially when you expect damage from a lean out condition . Nice video
I would love to see your ring seating video! Does it matter for the size of saw ? Great videos thanks! I'm glad you have the strength to stand up to the big companies, you truly are for the common customer. Thank you!
Ok well I just watched 2 other women they each had there own shop . Well all I have to say is you’re videos are Far better than the ones I just saw . All I have to say to you is keep up the GOOD WORK .
Last time I priced a piston and jug it was just over $300 so you got a good buy. I usually use Metro or Hyway sets. Both are outstanding alternatives to OEM.
YEARS AGO, In diesel school our master instructor taught us that what makes a cylinder 'BREAK IN' properly is the heating up & the cooling down. So do that-go thru your break in sequence THEN let the saw cool all the way down. Then run it again till it gets up to op temp. cool it & give it to your customer. !
Great to see your back. Can’t wait to get more videos like this one. You explain everything so well. I can’t wait do a job like changing a piston & cylinder. Till next time Thanks again DLCR El Paso ,Tx
I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who was pulled aside on suspicion of explosive coffee. I suppose I should have gone all Austin Powers on them and said "Back up, or I'll drop this coffee bean!"
Great video for saw owners who may be intimidated by a top end repair. Please do make the ring seating video! In a commercial setting where time is money, both P&C are replaced, but most often in this situation, the apparent scoring on the cylinder is actually aluminum transfer from the piston, and the cylinder can be cleaned up. The lean heat actually melts the surface of the piston. The plating of the cylinder is very hard and resists scoring. Aluminum transfer can be removed by muriatic acid (HCl) or saturated aqueous sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or flap sanding. Because muriatic acid gives off nasty fumes, I use NaOH on a Q-tip. It will foam slightly, dissolving aluminum and liberating hydrogen gas. This is followed by light honing. There are some good aftermarket pistons such as Meteor which are less expensive and generally regarded as OEM quality. Your airline experience illustrates why most of us hate flying. It's fine in the air, but on the ground there is constant worry about cancellations, delays, and missed connections. At least you had a fun trip and got some natural highlights from the Mexican sun😍.
Hope Bre, will comment on your aluminum transfer removal. Seems the way to go for diyselves but of course, you would still have to identify the root problem if you don't want to be redoing the repair in the near future !
@@danielrobert7181 Absolutely! I learned that the hard way when I did a top end on my 034 years ago. It was the first major repair I had ever done on a chainsaw and I was shockingly ignorant about 2-stroke engines - it was a repair that had to be done quickly to finish a job. I bought a new Stihl piston and rings, cleaned up the cylinder a bit, and reassembled. It only took a few minutes run time to realize that something was very wrong. On disassembly, the sparkling new piston was once again starting to score. I had yet to learn the importance of crankshaft oil seals, the original cause of the failure. The combination of innate mechanical aptitude plus lack of knowledge can be expensive!😆
Bre, I HATE Dallas Airport and AA and can TOTALLY relate with you… Great video!!! Just make sure your bottom end isn’t full of aluminum slurry before assembly and clean that out with mix. I like how liberal you are with pre lube!!!!
I spray the crankcase full of brake or parts cleaner, slosh it around, then turn it upside down and pour it out...then spray it out again with cleaner while it's upside down..dry it out, then pour liberal amounts of 2 cycle oil in the crankcase, let it sit, then rotate the crankshaft and leave it in there overnight. Then pour the excess oil out and re-assemble top end...
The first stand up and head nod after a win like that, so great. "Yes. I win again. Oh what, you thought you were all that? How you like me NOW! Yeahh, thats right, you sit there and idle until "I" decide when youre gonna rev up or rev down. PUNK". Stay gold.
these are awesome saws,my normal 'timber' saw is a 372,big timber is a 395.When I heard they were going to stop making them I bought one as a spare,it's never seen gas or oil with a 24inch bar.I run a 357 that I bought 'siezed' and in a box for the bulk of my cutting. 346 was a great saw too
Great job, love this, very informative. I am a do it yourselfer more everyday being that i am retired now. Love the fact that you are a woman with these skills. Also i have been very impressed with some of the woman logger videos i have watched. Attractive hard working woman all of you, a man could not ask for more. Keep up the good work, love your knowledge.
I'm glad to see that Husqvarna made the bottom of the cylinder tapered. Quality machines. I would suggest not pouring gas from the tank toward yourself. I always wondered if running the saw for hours would overheat it. Now I see it may be the fuel mix. I hope your husbands leg is better, I guess so if y'all went to Mexico. I'm also glad to see you warm up the machine. I hate arguing with people about warming up a 600 dollar saw or whatever 2 cycle equipment before using it. Wait was it his shoulder?
For break-in I remove bar & chain then make 35:1 oil mix and run 3 tank fulls through saw. Let it run 'high idle' and set in on the ground till empty. Do again.
If you're seriously considering an rv, I'd suggest you go with one that has automatic levelers. It really sucks to have to put boards and other crap under the wheels to level it. Go with automatic levelers. It'll make traveling much more do-able!
Great video! Great saw! Curious what the customer was running for mix and or why it may have gotten hot. Husky recommends 50:1 but I have heard of these newer husky saws especially the 572 XP and 550XP run lean from the factory. I run my huskys at 40:1 and 32:1. Echos at 50:1. A free flowing exhaust seems to keep it running cooler as well.
Just remeber the more oil the leaner the air fuel mix is the oil takes up cylinder space you must adjust the carb acordingly ,most people forget the point its a 2 stroke and thats how its oiled ,i have always run my 262 xp at 50 to 1, bought it new in 96 ,be sure to use the best 2 stroke oil ,as a skidoo dealer i used there bombardier injection oil ,it was proven to have the lowest viscosity back then ,and least carbon buildup ,castrol is good as well .
I always say who cares if a saw has been run for 25 years one hour per year at 50:1. Lets see that saw run 150hrs per year at 50:1 for 5 years. I run 42:1 because 50:1 is an EPA ratio to meet emissions certification standards with no regard for engine longevity.
@@davemcewen9991 The bigger point is that more oil makes the fuel mix more viscous, thus less flow past the metering screw which means whenever you change brands of oil, or mixture ratio, you should re-adjust the metering screw.
Josh from RV Nerd would be a great place to start for a look at all the different RV models. He does walk throughs and he does a RV industry update every so you can see what the trends are especially pricing.
Pressure and Vacuum testing a saw that has run lean is recommended ? I know that I would not just drop a new cylinder kit on with out a definite cause. May someone was playing with the mixture and she was told. The new filter gets me thinking they may have leaned it out with a dirty one . Put on a new one and it was to lean for all that extra air flow. Leaned out cylinder/piston burn has me asking a lot of questions or doing all the tests.
Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
the best thing about these videos are how real a person you are!
Just a tip from an old aircraft mechanic. Save the old pin and taper one end on a lathe and this makes a great tool to line the piston pin hole with the rod hole. Save it for the next one.
@waynejohnston2408 Hey Wayne. Serious question. If you use the old pin that you had to drive out.....as a guide to align the new parts..... Aren't you basically going to have to drive that pin completely through as you follow it in with the new pin? And couldn't it possibly damage the new bores if that old pin is just a smidgen tighter in the new parts than the old parts? I've seen great mechanics actually put a small chamfer right on the new pin without complication, which makes it a breeze to insert fully. Just asking. Have a good one! J Pol.
@@jpol3808 A) why would a worn used pin be larger than an unworn New pin? B) common sense would tell you to not do this with a used pin that is so trashed that it has raised burrs. C) you'll NEVER see a great mechanic put a chamfer on the new pin, FFS you have no idea how these parts interact, putting a chamfer on the pin that will be run causes a GIGANTIC problem with the method of retention....
Please don't ever attempt replacing a piston, over thinkers tend to come up with solutions to problems that don't exist, often with detrimental outcomes. This job is done daily on tailgates of pickups out in the woods.
There are pin press tools made for specific applications and for generic applications she doesn't use them so I doubt she'd use this method. No slight on her though, it's just more tools to keep track of and find when they're needed. Spend 5 minutes getting the tool as opposed to spending 5 minutes tapping out the pin with the tools you're using for the rest of the job.
Just a tip from an old machinist (just the tip ma'am): small 2 stroke pins are hardened close to 60 Rockwell on their OD... Have fun smoking cutters in your lathe. An old 3/8 drive extension will knock out damn near all chainsaw pins. You're welcome.
@@truracer20 Since your only trying to bash me and I had asked that man a serious question.... I'll still answer yours. A. Mass Production. Contracts changing hands and companies moving overseas, where production standards are not as critical as in the U.S.. Plus your dealing with 3 actual parts and 3 possible manufacturers.😞👎 B. You are correct. Don't use a trashed pin! Good job! 👏 and C. Great mechanics have and will continue to slightly 0.001. - 0.003. chamfer most anything! We're not talking about sharpening a pencil here!😂👎 Lastly... Stick to tailgates! Oh.... Look at the comment above 👆of using an old 3/8 drive extension. That's great! You see a truly great mechanic is past the level of having to bash others to be better than them. They are at the level of passing on what works well for them, to make you better! Lol. Thanks for bashing me though, It truly has been fun! 🎉 Ttyl!🥱.
Considering layover times we decided to drive from Utah to Virginia, saw the country, visited family and had a better time than if we had flown. Flying isn't what it once was.
I would rather ride a bicycle than fly.
That is a lifetime saw. Absolute workhorse, I will never give mine up. Old school pre EPA monster.
Not quite a pre-EPA monster..the X-Torq versions of them(this is one of them) made from 2010 onwards, have significant redesigns to the top end(piston, cylinder, intake, different carb, etc.), because of having to meet EPA requirements...they are definitely not a "pre-EPA saw"..and also why the later versions seem to have more issues than the original versions....
@@dyer2cycle glad mine is an OG 372XP.
I have never ruined a chain saw engine because I have never loaned out a saw and have always mixed my fuel rich with oil. The 372 XP old version is to me one of the best saws ever made. Fast chain over the bar and gobs of power. I have them down to the 5.5 lb. Echo and up to the massive top of the line Huskys, but I'll take the 372 XP to my grave.
Being a Husqvarna Warranty repair person its up to me to determine if it was a mechanical failure or operator error. Which means i have to carefully check everything before and during disassembly . Which includes crankcase pressure vacuum testing. As always a great video 👍.
Yeah, no matter what during a rebuild you should always test the crank seals, those are the cause of top ends scoring with professionals
@@SomeGuysSawShopThis! The number one cause of a lean condition in a 2 stroke is leaking crank seals. Ran into this many times with 2 stroke mx bikes
Right, that saw will be right back with the same issue if it is a bad crank seal.
@@dirtyd491 i've also experienced it with 2--stroke outboards !
Chainsaw performance cannot be tested by simply revving the engine up. A chainsaw may run perfectly until you put a heavy load on it. Then it may bog down and require more carb adjusting. 2 stroke engines of this type also have a maximum RPM. The high speed needle is used to set max RPM.
Chickanic knows her stuff and then some. Never underestimate a good chickanic. 👍
Stihl silver tech here, typically with a scored failure, you do a pressure and vaccum test on unit before tear down to find possible other issues that caused the lean failure, crankseals, cylinder gasket, intake manifold, etc. Otherwise you could end up with same failure again if it was compromised. And after you install your new top end etc, you do another pressure and vaccum test to check your work. Also that saw sounded lean in the video, you could hear how it was idling down she is sucking air somewhere
Winding down on heavy air. That saw will need another top end soon. No proper diagnosis cost ya money.
@@mweba1 exactly
I just replied to her video with the same comment. Good to have someone else say the same
Without proper diagnosis the piston will score again. You must find the original reason it scored. Hole in the fuel line, hole in the intake boot, bad crank seals, whatever it is it must me found and fixed.
Yes. I could hear it was lean too. it bogged a bit when she hit the throttle and idled funny when she stopped revving.it. Those Husky cylinders with the removable transfer port covers are known to leak. but it could also have a bad crank bearing or seal. Also it looks like an XPW and not an XP with a piston like that
I did lots of those in 2005-2017 when I was a Husqvarna tech...have done a few since. I'm the first one to admit I despise doing pressure/leakdown tests, but a burned pro saw you are going to put back into service is the time to do one. That said, even if I KNOW the cause was straight-gas, I will usually put new crank seals in as insurance..don't want a comeback or to burn up a new $200 OEM P&C. I do remember, when the X-torqs were first introduced, we had a LOT of them come back burned up, almost new...lots of crank main bearing failures on those, which of course takes out the seals..if it's an X-Torq model, I definitely check the bearings and seals..also the x-torqs were known for having air leaks at the intake boot as well..all in all, I didn't care for the X-torq models, I'd much rather have an original design 372XP..the X-torq was basically a way to keep the popular 372 models in production, because the original design wouldn't meet EPA regs anymore..Everything on the X-torq on the top end was completely different/redesigned, and they have taller engine covers and handlebars than the OE version. Lots of customers didn't know the difference, and wondered why some of the parts from their old parts saws wouldn't fit their newer saws when they started to "Frankensaw" them...I always told them, if the compression release came up through the top cover, it's an X-torq...if the release is on the side of the cylinder, it's an original version 372. IMHO, they should have called the saw something else, like 374XTP, or something...but, they were trying to continue the popular 372XP saw without anyone noticing the changes, I suppose...
Darlin I love the way you explain it all in English in detail. You diagnosed the problem, got the new parts and even mentioned the prices plus tax! Lol... All in like 5 minutes, love it:-) okay going to watch the rest of the video now...
Might try looking through the rod towards the wrist pin to locate the "honey hole".
Regarding an RV vs airline. Great idea there's lots of places to go, see and do. DO NOT purchase an RV. Doing so is a great way to lose money to depreciation and discounting when time to sell. Depending on level of use I recommend you either rent for each trip or lease one for a specific time. Our experience was buying a used 45' repo bus with 4 slides. Pretty much rebuilt all systems to keep it on the road. Sort of like a chain saw, it's great till it's not then your at mercy of a dealer/repair who has too many in que for repair and they over charge for simple repairs. Good luck. Thanks for your Channel. I think your video' are awesome. Merry Christmas
Old school tip: use the original Slick 50 formula, now being sold as Xcelplus as assembly lube. It gives conventional lubrication for initial startup, and permeates the metal with Teflon like polymer after just a few seconds of running. This polymer will reduce friction nearly indefinitely in a 2 stroke or 4 stroke small engine.
I just love a woman like Chickie. So very smart. Great sense of humor. Beautiful. Hey where do we needy fellows find such a catch. Your spouse is one lucky guy !!!
That is a great idea to clean it up before you go to take it apart . bre The 2 cycle equipment repair queen 👑
This channel is worth watching even if you don't work on your own stuff, Very informative ane entertaining.
I have rebuilt alot of husky 372's that sounded way too lean on the test run. Those xtorq's were noted to wear the low end bearings or case pockets out then the seals would leak. The big end conrod was blue. Which may mean the cylinder went bad from running too lean from an air leak.
Yes, and they were really prone to intake boot air leaks, also...even if the boot looked fine...
They heat up to harden the crank end of the rod
I’ve had very good success owning Husqvarna over the years , 3 of them and I never lost a days work !
Jonsered 2065 was and still is one of my favorites, terrific chainsaw !
You did well on the repair and I learned a few things watching you !
Personally I check the crankseals with every rebuild as well. 😉
Tech Tip for getting the piston re-assembled to the conrod: Turn the saw perpendicular to your line of sight, so your able to "see through" the eye of the con rod. Assemble the wrist pin on the blind side of the piston so that you can see the alignment as you work. Leaving the piston dry until just before cylinder installation makes for easier handling. I like a little engine assembly lube on the wrist pin needle bearings but nothing wrong with a bit of engine oil instead.
I always use axle grease to hold a gasket in place as I put a head in place and I've never had any problems from the grease.
Glad you are back from South of the Border. Hope you had a great trip. As always, your videos are clear and well explained to help us avoid the pitfalls of 2 cycles.
Happy to hear yall got home safely ,sorry it was a pain in the six, but yall got home. Great video as always.
Great video for saw owners who may be intimidated by a top end repair. Please do make the ring seating video! In a commercial setting where time is money, both P&C are replaced, but most often in this situation, the apparent scoring on the cylinder is actually aluminum transfer from the piston, and the cylinder can be cleaned up. The lean heat actually melts the surface of the piston. The plating of the cylinder is very hard and resists scoring. Aluminum transfer can be removed by muriatic acid (HCl) or saturated aqueous sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or flap sanding. Because muriatic acid gives off nasty fumes, I use NaOH on a Q-tip. It will foam slightly, dissolving aluminum and liberating hydrogen gas. This is followed by light honing. There are some good aftermarket pistons such as Meteor which are less expensive and generally regarded as OEM quality.
Your hands are so clean and unscarred it's hard to believe you do the work you do. I just found your channel and enjoy your videos
thank-you for your entertainment and knowledge. I'm almost 70 and have been wrenching
on 2-smokers for over 50 years. Not only are you interesting, but you make it fun, '
Thanks again!
-Matt
When I traveled to Japan, we had one hour to get from one airport to another to catch the next flight. During that hour, we had to claim our bags, clear customs, buy a bus ticket, find the bus, ride to the other airport, then check in at the other airline. Japan has a very efficient bus system, so we made the connection without issues.
Thanks. I have a Craftsman self-propelled push mower with a 4-stroke Briggs that may need this. Knowing to oil everything good and do the rings burn in helps.
Welcome back! Thanks for sharing your amazing knowledge 🙏🏿🇺🇸
As an arborist, I get so excited to see your chainsaw videos. I've run a lot of stihl and husqy and just bought my first echo, would love to see more saw rebuild content, especially tophandles and professional models.
Thank you for your explanation on this. I’ve learned so much from watching your videos. They have saved me time, money and frustration, for sure.
Glad you had a good time in Mexico.
Knowledge girl you have the hands of a model!
When installing a new cylinder I find that by catching the 4 bolts before the cylinder is fully down it insures that the gasket is aligned properly.
Oh my god your story is giving me flashbacks from our honeymoon!!!! American Airlines did the same thing to us in 2001. We arrived at the airport at the appropriate time. We were not informed of the change till we were at the gate. The crappy thing is the workers acted like it was to bad. Thankfully my new wife went full Karen on them and got us a flight back home, we got upgraded to first class. So it worked out for the best.
You did a great job! I have become obsessed with performing a pressure/leak test on all my 2cycle builds. Ya find small leaks in the strangest of places. I will say one thing…. Once you do a leak test the confidence level really goes up. And the engine will usually reward you with immediate starts and consistent and smooth idle and sharp response. Great video!
Hello Chickanik.
I love too learn from you. My Husqvarna 242 almost 40 years old leaking oil, I think it’s the same problem you showed us in this video. I going out now and trying to repair my chainsaw.
Thank you for your help. 😃❤️❤️
I think everyone should have an RV. After a couple of years, you’ll consider yourself a qualified electrician, plumber, carpenter, and HVAC specialist.😊
Since I have found your channel, I have learned some very helpful tidbits and cleared up a few head scratchers for me.
Keep up the good work.
gotta love the 372's. the cast crankcase means you can rebuild them forever if you watch them. crank bearings and seals every other jug unless it doesnt pass a pressure test. newest versions fixed the muffler issues but the new muffler is not backward compatible (no screw holes in the crankcase) i always warned customers that all that piston and cylinder scoring may have got to the crank bearings. it was thier choice.
Appreciate the in-depth disassembly and re-assembly.
As far as RVs... If you could find one with a small 2-cycle engine, you could easily repair it if it were to break down. Though I doubt it would ever make it out of a driveway 🤣
Seriously, you might consider a pop-up, small tow-behind, or truck bed camper. We like all 3 options for different things. My overall favorite (in theory since we don't have one) is the truck-bed type with pull-out sides. Not the biggest, but seems like the most flexible.
Great options and for many different reasons. My cousin who always vacationed with 8 or 9 people got a used small towable camper with a small eating and sleeping slide out. Since the camper was mainly to be used for sleeping, eating fast food on occasion or food off the Coleman stove and only hanging out in bad weather, he ripped out the kitchen, except for the upper cabinets, the closet, the refrigerator and stove (I think he added to the shower toilet space, some tote storage as well ) and converted all the open floor and wall spaces into sleeping areas with some shorter upper bunks with folding side rails for kids, that all folded up or back against the wall for more seating and table room. 3 kids and 5 or 6 adults could eat and sleep comfortably and shower and use the bathroom. He made an extra lockable metal storage bin for extra items, totes and necessities like paper plates, cups, cooking utensils, tools, rv supplies, outdoor games... beach toys, and a nice size cooler....because he also removed the fridge, And added a platform to hold it just above the rear bumper. It has its own fold up lockable ramp that folds down to roll it on and off the platform because it is on small wheels. They would drop the box at their garage and go park the camper in the storage lot, leaving the box home for them to restock and organize with all the necessities for their next trip. Then they would get the camper load up the box and go! Chickanic....You and your husband are very talented and could thoroughly inspect and find a good solid camper to convert, and in a couple seasons could easily do something similar for just 7 people that would be really budget wise! They always had the best of times taking that camper everywhere because it covered their most basic and costly on the road needs. Some people like the idea of camping and staying put inside the camper for days without stepping outdoors, but they were always in and out of that thing doing something and having fun because it was small, easy to tow, and could be used almost anywhere. Only did the weather ever hold them hostage inside. Good luck! I hope if you go that route that you decide put it on a channel for us viewers, because you not only are cool and great personality on camera, but there are lots of people who can't pin down the basics of a camper or motorhome and get in way over there heads on what they think they need to have, in order to have fun! Later! J Pol..
That was blooming amazing love your comment. Runs like a scalded dug you are an insperation to all ..your awsome
THANKS for this 372 video. I just put one together and you answered my question on where that 1 longer handle screw went for sure! 😅 Thanks!
A saw rebuild series on different models could be an incredible addition for your channel maybe!
Just a quick thing.....I use to work in a small tool hire shop years ago.....
Best little home made tool I made was a peace of wood...1"thick 1 3/4" wide and about 6" long with a 3/4" slot in it about 3 3/4" down middle.
I can slot under new piston to aid getting rings into new pot.
And with it been wood it won't damage gasket or pot and piston too.
Keep up the great vids.
@ 2:38... WHAT did you say????
Do a thorough pressure/vacuum test on the saw before you give it back. Make sure the crank seals and or the cylinder gasket isn't leaking. Great video as always Chickanic, glad you're back.
If you didn’t want to completely break a saw down couldn’t you just do the Brake Cleaner spray test to look for air leaks ?
@@shannonwhitaker9630no because how are you going to spray brake clean behind the flywheel and clutch to see if crank seals are sucking air?
LocTite releases at 300 f.. how hot do the muffler screws get?
Thanks for the video.
I’m surprised you didn’t do a pressure test. I would have at least checked the PTO side bearing for play and the rod for play. Also that saw still sounded lean on the start up. Sounds just like a saw before it runs out of fuel. I can never just fix anything. I need to know the problem that caused it in the first place. But either way I did learn lots of stuff over the years watching your videos. And no matter what you do people will criticize. Including me haha
Hi Bre, I'm in total agreement with Robert here. Pressure Vac test at this point would critical in diagnosis as to whether you need to do a total teardown. Did you have more info from the owner? Many thanks.
Sounds like a saw when it runs out of fuel? 50 to 1 is only 2% oil that is all the lube everything gets so when it runs out of fuel it’s out of lubrication. That was the first thing I learned when first using chain saws. Never letting them run out. I’ve never scuffed a piston in 65 years of tree work. Mind you not all of it was 8 hrs. A day.
Love your running commentary and advice.
Allow me to offer a few suggestions based on my own experience:
1. I have replaced the carbs on all my small engines (both 2-stroke and 4-stroke) with very inexpensive after-market products. Every one has worked perfectly. The caveat is that at less than $20 apiece I can afford to do it every year if necessary, and the job is so easy I can do it in less than an hour. So no worries about labor cost and down time in the shop. Obviously I don't recommend this approach for a non-DIY.
2. We travel outside the US frequently, so we have found that the government's Global Entry program is worth its weight in gold ($100 for five years). GE speeds you through customs and gets you into the US in a heartbeat. I can't help but think that might have enabled you to catch your connecting flight in DFW and saved you the Time, Expense, and Frustration that you had to endure on your return trip.
That said, I am glad you had a great time in Mexico. I'm not a fisherman, but I do like Cuban Rum. Can't get Havana Club 7-year here, so we try to bring some home whenever we are abroad.
Hope you all are having a good holiday season and a great year in your new shop.
Great video! Thanks to you I bought a Gooloo GT3000. It saved me this weekend! Keep up the good work.
Great video. On the RV topic I would strongly recommend renting various classes, A,B,C, travel trailer or a fifth wheel if you have truck to pull one. Rent before you consider buying. If you buy, never buy a new one. They are like cars and depreciate quickly. Also, RVs are one of the few things that you get what you pay for. There are just a few quality manufacturers. Avoid Camping World completely.
Ok
Watched yr Husky trip the a few days ago. Saw u mentioned Kubota . I have a zero turn. Best mower I have ever had. Was wondering why u have never done a video on repairs to them. Have mastered the saws and brush cutters thxs to u. Keep up the good work.
Hope you checked crank bearings for play causing air leak. Under side of piston burnt is sign. Definitely would recommend seals atleast and clean tank with new feul filter 🔧🔧 gas that come out looked like dirty paint thinner lol . Definitely recommend checking crank bearings and seals on saws or lean failure can happen again even if seems to run good after rebuild. Very nice job you're the best 🔧🔧🔥🔥🏁🏁 maybe you did check just dud show. I have a 575 on bench right now same deal. Was rebuilt few months ago just top end. PTO bearing spun causing air leak and burnt up again 😃
The 372 all of the 300 hundred series where the best ever made I saw a lot
Huskys are bad about popping crank seals on the clutch side . There should always be a crankcase vacuum test done. Especially when you expect damage from a lean out condition . Nice video
I would love to see your ring seating video! Does it matter for the size of saw ? Great videos thanks! I'm glad you have the strength to stand up to the big companies, you truly are for the common customer. Thank you!
Ok well I just watched 2 other women they each had there own shop . Well all I have to say is you’re videos are Far better than the ones I just saw . All I have to say to you is keep up the GOOD WORK .
I have that saw its powerful saw. One tip I like to do is let it ideal for a little to warm up.
Good video.
Glad you got back safe. Have a wonderful day
Always check the crank seals .
Last time I priced a piston and jug it was just over $300 so you got a good buy. I usually use Metro or Hyway sets. Both are outstanding alternatives to OEM.
Glad you’re back Chic,missed you.
YEARS AGO,
In diesel school our master instructor taught us that what makes a cylinder 'BREAK IN'
properly is the heating up & the cooling down. So do that-go thru your break in sequence
THEN let the saw cool all the way down. Then run it again till it gets up to op temp.
cool it & give it to your customer.
!
Great to see your back. Can’t wait to get more videos like this one. You explain everything so well. I can’t wait do a job like changing a piston & cylinder. Till next time
Thanks again
DLCR
El Paso ,Tx
Excellent job from a super talented lady. You're Amazing. God Bless. And keep up the great videos.
Love the new shop..not crazy about huskvarna equipment..see you on the next one cheers 🍻🍻🍻🍻
I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who was pulled aside on suspicion of explosive coffee.
I suppose I should have gone all Austin Powers on them and said "Back up, or I'll drop this coffee bean!"
Great video for saw owners who may be intimidated by a top end repair. Please do make the ring seating video! In a commercial setting where time is money, both P&C are replaced, but most often in this situation, the apparent scoring on the cylinder is actually aluminum transfer from the piston, and the cylinder can be cleaned up. The lean heat actually melts the surface of the piston. The plating of the cylinder is very hard and resists scoring. Aluminum transfer can be removed by muriatic acid (HCl) or saturated aqueous sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or flap sanding. Because muriatic acid gives off nasty fumes, I use NaOH on a Q-tip. It will foam slightly, dissolving aluminum and liberating hydrogen gas. This is followed by light honing. There are some good aftermarket pistons such as Meteor which are less expensive and generally regarded as OEM quality.
Your airline experience illustrates why most of us hate flying. It's fine in the air, but on the ground there is constant worry about cancellations, delays, and missed connections. At least you had a fun trip and got some natural highlights from the Mexican sun😍.
Hope Bre, will comment on your aluminum transfer removal. Seems the way to go for diyselves but of course, you would still have to identify the root problem if you don't want to be redoing the repair in the near future !
@@danielrobert7181 Absolutely! I learned that the hard way when I did a top end on my 034 years ago. It was the first major repair I had ever done on a chainsaw and I was shockingly ignorant about 2-stroke engines - it was a repair that had to be done quickly to finish a job. I bought a new Stihl piston and rings, cleaned up the cylinder a bit, and reassembled. It only took a few minutes run time to realize that something was very wrong. On disassembly, the sparkling new piston was once again starting to score. I had yet to learn the importance of crankshaft oil seals, the original cause of the failure. The combination of innate mechanical aptitude plus lack of knowledge can be expensive!😆
I am also intimidated by bottom end repair
@@fair2middlin Top end repair compared to bottom end repair is like appendectomy compared to heart transplant 😧
Bre, I HATE Dallas Airport and AA and can TOTALLY relate with you…
Great video!!! Just make sure your bottom end isn’t full of aluminum slurry before assembly and clean that out with mix. I like how liberal you are with pre lube!!!!
I spray the crankcase full of brake or parts cleaner, slosh it around, then turn it upside down and pour it out...then spray it out again with cleaner while it's upside down..dry it out, then pour liberal amounts of 2 cycle oil in the crankcase, let it sit, then rotate the crankshaft and leave it in there overnight. Then pour the excess oil out and re-assemble top end...
Nice video LOVE YOUR WORK
All of your segments you air are outstanding 🎉
Thanks for the video. May GOD bless.
The first stand up and head nod after a win like that, so great. "Yes. I win again. Oh what, you thought you were all that? How you like me NOW! Yeahh, thats right, you sit there and idle until "I" decide when youre gonna rev up or rev down. PUNK".
Stay gold.
Does Loctite hold up to muffler temps? Just wondering.
Any tourque # needed on cylinder head bolts? I had to take mine apart again after running since bolts loosened
Great Vid, thanks. Is there a torque spec for the cylinder head?
these are awesome saws,my normal 'timber' saw is a 372,big timber is a 395.When I heard they were going to stop making them I bought one as a spare,it's never seen gas or oil with a 24inch bar.I run a 357 that I bought 'siezed' and in a box for the bulk of my cutting. 346 was a great saw too
I have the 0.41 purchased back in 98 still running great. And excellent trim saw
I sure wish they made knock-off of the 346xp like they do the 372's...shame they don't...
God I miss ur videos. I am sorry that I have not been watching them. U teach me a lot.
Great job, love this, very informative. I am a do it yourselfer more everyday being that i am retired now. Love the fact that you are a woman with these skills. Also i have been very impressed with some of the woman logger videos i have watched. Attractive hard working woman all of you, a man could not ask for more. Keep up the good work, love your knowledge.
Thank you for a great video. Please keep them coming.
Teaching this old dog new tricks, THANK YOU! Always a great job. 😁
Awesome job buds.I’d pull the inertial brake
I'm glad to see that Husqvarna made the bottom of the cylinder tapered. Quality machines. I would suggest not pouring gas from the tank toward yourself. I always wondered if running the saw for hours would overheat it. Now I see it may be the fuel mix. I hope your husbands leg is better, I guess so if y'all went to Mexico. I'm also glad to see you warm up the machine. I hate arguing with people about warming up a 600 dollar saw or whatever 2 cycle equipment before using it. Wait was it his shoulder?
I let my weedeater and BP blower warmup/run before i use always.
Excellent video. Professional.
Thank you for your knowledge. I have learned a lot about small engine repair. Thanks to you. Appreciate you very much.
And saved me tons of money.❤❤
Your the best, and that's from an old logger chainsaw guy. Keep it up. Happy holidays.
Glad you had a good time
Too bad for all the trouble that you had trying to get home.
Brea you made that look easy it pays to have the skills job well done.
Hope y’all had a good time. And I hope the old man is feeling good. Low pain level
Great video!! This was almost as good as doing it myself.
Picked up a refurbished 460 while I can still buy them. Was checking the compression, but how much psi should I look for in a refurbished 460?
Good job kinda souredafter waiting 3 months for parts for husqvarna parts for trimmer, but that saw soundsgood.
I got to hear more about the racing signs. A side business ?
Pretty good chainsaw surgery.
Chickanic the Invinceable.
For break-in I remove bar & chain then make 35:1 oil mix and run 3 tank fulls through saw. Let it run 'high idle' and set in on the ground till empty. Do again.
Thank you for another great video. Keep up the great work.
If you're seriously considering an rv, I'd suggest you go with one that has automatic levelers. It really sucks to have to put boards and other crap under the wheels to level it. Go with automatic levelers. It'll make traveling much more do-able!
Do you need to use any silicon grease or gasket glue on the mounting gasket?
New subscriber, have learned so much already. Love this channel.
I missed some info on this build. What was the torque setting on the cyl head.
Great video! Great saw! Curious what the customer was running for mix and or why it may have gotten hot. Husky recommends 50:1 but I have heard of these newer husky saws especially the 572 XP and 550XP run lean from the factory. I run my huskys at 40:1 and 32:1. Echos at 50:1. A free flowing exhaust seems to keep it running cooler as well.
Just remeber the more oil the leaner the air fuel mix is the oil takes up cylinder space you must adjust the carb acordingly ,most people forget the point its a 2 stroke and thats how its oiled ,i have always run my 262 xp at 50 to 1, bought it new in 96 ,be sure to use the best 2 stroke oil ,as a skidoo dealer i used there bombardier injection oil ,it was proven to have the lowest viscosity back then ,and least carbon buildup ,castrol is good as well .
I always say who cares if a saw has been run for 25 years one hour per year at 50:1. Lets see that saw run 150hrs per year at 50:1 for 5 years.
I run 42:1 because 50:1 is an EPA ratio to meet emissions certification standards with no regard for engine longevity.
@@davemcewen9991 The bigger point is that more oil makes the fuel mix more viscous, thus less flow past the metering screw which means whenever you change brands of oil, or mixture ratio, you should re-adjust the metering screw.
Josh from RV Nerd would be a great place to start for a look at all the different RV models. He does walk throughs and he does a RV industry update every so you can see what the trends are especially pricing.
Pressure and Vacuum testing a saw that has run lean is recommended ? I know that I would not just drop a new cylinder kit on with out a definite cause. May someone was playing with the mixture and she was told. The new filter gets me thinking they may have leaned it out with a dirty one . Put on a new one and it was to lean for all that extra air flow. Leaned out cylinder/piston burn has me asking a lot of questions or doing all the tests.