I'm a big fan of your tutorials! I am used to wait impatiently together with you for the clock animation to finish. Recently I found the exclamation point icon at the bottom right corner of the editing panel. It's a lifesaver, making editing much quicker without compromising results. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Great tutorial, Rob. OM Workspace and other free image editing software is far more powerful than many people think. The key is knowing what you can and can't do with it and how to implement what you want. Knowledge is power, as they say. And thanks for pointing out my boo boo, Rob!
Hi Rob, I thank you very much for your video, it's 100% what I needed to practice! For beginners like me that want to work with raw files and have an old but good OM-D there is no need to have expensive software, as the final result of your example looks great. Greetings from Barcelona (Spain).
Just yesterday I was trying to work on an image in black and white on OM Workspace with some success, although I can't claim to have known so well what I was doing. Think I'll go back, reset the RAW image, and start again with a little more confidence. Thanks for this.
since you OM workspace tutorials i have been using this software a lot and learning. my default software is LR & PS which i have been using for many years thanks for sharing.
Great video !!! I am trying to set my OM Workspace to look like yours. Right next to the comparison of the two pictures my OM Workspace has a column for a histogram. How do I get rid of this Histogram column ?
Dear Rob, I have a problem with my OM-D E-M10 II. Last night I took a couple of astro shots with it and it was really cold outside, but I don't think it was less than -5 degrees C. Today I woke up and took my camera out for a run, and it works, but the shutter curtain seems to be somehow slow. I tried faster and slower shutter speeds and it's always the same. I usually shoot with the anti-shock shutter mode. Only the silent (eletronic) shutter does (of course) not have this issue. It seems that, whilst the curtain does fall at the given shutter speed, it does not get back up as quickly as it used to, which prevents me from taking any action photos. Do you have any idea if this issue has maybe to do with some other settings or if it is simply a mechanical issue? Which is honestly too bad, since there are no repair shops where I live nor do I have the warranty :/ EDIT: Just to clarify, the photos do not come out blurry or overexposed, as the curtain does fall as fast as it's supposed to, but the whole shot just takes a half a second longer than before.
Sounds like a mechanical problem. The only setting that would make it feel like there is a delay in the shutter is the "Noise Reduction". Make sure it is off and not on. Let me know if that was it.
As humans we are conditioned to seeing our world in colour with the danger that when we venture into the world of B&W photography we often go overboard by shooting everything we see with the intention of later processing the image into B&W - in other words, it being the final stage in the creation of the final image. I'm sure you will agree that this approach is wrong and photographers should 'see' in their minds eye how the scene would appear in B&W or, in other words, the process begins at the beginning and not the end. As an aid to thinking like this, I myself prefer to set my cameras monitor to B&W at which time I can better appreciate the overall spread of tones with which to judge whether the final image would justify the effort.
Always use the tools available, like the b&w profiles already in the camera. Learning to see in b&w is a good idea. Simply taking color photos without thinking about how they will look in b&w with the intent to convert later, I agree is a mistake.
I'm a big fan of your tutorials! I am used to wait impatiently together with you for the clock animation to finish.
Recently I found the exclamation point icon at the bottom right corner of the editing panel.
It's a lifesaver, making editing much quicker without compromising results.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Great tutorial, Rob. OM Workspace and other free image editing software is far more powerful than many people think. The key is knowing what you can and can't do with it and how to implement what you want. Knowledge is power, as they say. And thanks for pointing out my boo boo, Rob!
Thanks Rob that is one of the best B&W videos I have seen I work in Workspace with my Evolt E_620 , thanks for the video , can't wait to try this
Hi Rob, I thank you very much for your video, it's 100% what I needed to practice! For beginners like me that want to work with raw files and have an old but good OM-D there is no need to have expensive software, as the final result of your example looks great. Greetings from Barcelona (Spain).
Thanks for the coffee! Always happy to help.
Rob: Never mind, I figured it out. Again, Great video !!!!
Just yesterday I was trying to work on an image in black and white on OM Workspace with some success, although I can't claim to have known so well what I was doing. Think I'll go back, reset the RAW image, and start again with a little more confidence. Thanks for this.
I'm always happy to help.
Excellent tutorial Rob, thank you for sharing. Cheers!
Thanks, Randy!
Quality video from the master.
Terrific tutorial. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
Brilliant!
Thank you!
Great again Rob. Do you only use OM Workspace and DxO Photolab and/or do you combine them? Or do you use LR too?
I use Photolab 99% of the time.
since you OM workspace tutorials i have been using this software a lot and learning. my default software is LR & PS which i have been using for many years thanks for sharing.
Glad to help!
Great video !!! I am trying to set my OM Workspace to look like yours. Right next to the comparison of the two pictures my OM Workspace has a column for a histogram. How do I get rid of this Histogram column ?
Looks like you got it!
Dear Rob, I have a problem with my OM-D E-M10 II. Last night I took a couple of astro shots with it and it was really cold outside, but I don't think it was less than -5 degrees C. Today I woke up and took my camera out for a run, and it works, but the shutter curtain seems to be somehow slow. I tried faster and slower shutter speeds and it's always the same. I usually shoot with the anti-shock shutter mode. Only the silent (eletronic) shutter does (of course) not have this issue. It seems that, whilst the curtain does fall at the given shutter speed, it does not get back up as quickly as it used to, which prevents me from taking any action photos. Do you have any idea if this issue has maybe to do with some other settings or if it is simply a mechanical issue? Which is honestly too bad, since there are no repair shops where I live nor do I have the warranty :/
EDIT: Just to clarify, the photos do not come out blurry or overexposed, as the curtain does fall as fast as it's supposed to, but the whole shot just takes a half a second longer than before.
Sounds like a mechanical problem. The only setting that would make it feel like there is a delay in the shutter is the "Noise Reduction". Make sure it is off and not on. Let me know if that was it.
@@RobTrek Dear Rob, thank you so much for your reply. It seems that turning the noise reduction to auto or off fixes this problem! Very grateful! 😇
I have some B&W negatives if I scan them to Om workspace would I be able to change them ( most of them are underdeveloped by me)
Should not be a problem. If you scanner doesn't convert to a positive, all you have to do is invert the tone curve in Workspace.
As humans we are conditioned to seeing our world in colour with the danger that when we venture into the world of B&W photography we often go overboard by shooting everything we see with the intention of later processing the image into B&W - in other words, it being the final stage in the creation of the final image. I'm sure you will agree that this approach is wrong and photographers should 'see' in their minds eye how the scene would appear in B&W or, in other words, the process begins at the beginning and not the end. As an aid to thinking like this, I myself prefer to set my cameras monitor to B&W at which time I can better appreciate the overall spread of tones with which to judge whether the final image would justify the effort.
Always use the tools available, like the b&w profiles already in the camera. Learning to see in b&w is a good idea. Simply taking color photos without thinking about how they will look in b&w with the intent to convert later, I agree is a mistake.