I think I've referred back to this video a few times now. A quick and easy way to navigate the software. Thanks for being out there on the inter-web, Rob!
Thanks for another workspace tutorial. It may be a bit clunky and slow compared to some commercial packages, but I think it is great that Olympus provides this free software
@@wharfhouse I have a i7 8350 6x core cpu, 32gig, and gtx 1060 with 6gig, 256 ssd. For some reason the gpu select is greyed out for me. I think GPU helps the most for effects.
Hi Rob I took a photo in Live Composite which turned out great how can view the shutter speed in workspace to determine the amount of shots were taken. This was during a storm I know it was at 1/2 second but I can’t see the amount of shots taken to get this result.
In the details panel, click on the camera icon. Scroll down and you'll see a line item "Composite Settings". It will say something like "Lighten mode, 17 frames".
@@RobTrek Hi Rob Thank you for the instruction I was able to workout the time live composite took for the photo I was interested in. Keep up the good work 📸
Hi Rob. On a lens note. Got my oly 70-300 today and now also looking out to your future photo walk with this lens. Although there have been reviews,i would like you to have a review on it and your perception. Like your vlogs.
Thanks Rob, great tutorial. I really need to start using Workspace more often and thanks for the Reset Batch file for when I get carried away with editing. Don't use LR anymore, I do a majority of my post processing with ON1 Photo Raw 2020 and very pleased so far but will have to incorporate more of Workspace.
Hi Rob, can I ask for your advice. I have an olympus camera and lens, I have workspace. But I want a better picture editing program that's not to complicated, I recently tried lightroom and it was very confusing to me. Is there anything else that in your opinion that I could try. I'm not looking to become the world's best editor just something a little faster then workspace ?. And could do a little more, I.e. masks. Many thanks Peter.
Hi Peter. I use Photolab 7. It is similar to lightroom but gives better results. I wouldn't say it's any easier than Lightoom. Watch this tutorial I made for Photolab 6 and see if it might work for you. th-cam.com/video/0NBAceIvwFA/w-d-xo.html Luminar has a very different user interface that many have found more intuitive. Might want to check it out as well.
@@RobTrek I want to install old version as I am using Windows 7. Can you upload your Olympus workspace for me to download? Thansks for your great help.
Hi. If you're trying to brush out a second area, Workspace is very slow and it should eventually update the image. What you can do is try and clean up to spots, then wait a minute. Then export as jpg and see if the exported image shows two spots fixed. Workspace will apply all the settings before it exports, even if you don't see it right away on your screen. Let me know if that worked. -Rob
I really like Affinity. It's certainly a very powerful all-in-one photo-editor. I don't know anything about version 2, but I've had version 1.1 for a couple of years now. I got it for $25 on a black-friday sale. Honestly, I rarely use it because I use DxO Photolab for editing and Photoshop for everything else. That said, Affinity can do focus stacking, HDR, layering, and astrophotography specific stacking. The learning curve is a little steep, but I think it's worth it. I love OM Workspace, but it has it's limits. For basic editing of single images, Workspace is really good and you probably don't need anything else. It's biggest limitation is that all the changes are global. You can't do things like dodge and burn, gradients, or selections. If you want to do more advanced editing, Affinity seems to do it all. I use DxO products because I think it gives the best results, particularly with noise reduction. Photoshop gives me layering, stacking, etc... and a smooth workflow for my paid work. Another product you might want to consider is Photoshop Elements. It's a one-time fee and does it all, including asset management. It's only limitation is it doesn't get updated as much when new cameras come out. You have to work-around converting raws to dng using adobe's free dng converter tool. Anyway, if you already have Affinity Photo, learn to use it. If not, I'd probably steer you towards Photoshop Elements. If you have the budget for it, the DxO Suite of products give the best results in my opinion.
Once you make the crop, you simple go back to editing colors to see it live. However the crop is applied immediately so you could simply export from there.
Hi. I don't have a Win 7 machine, but I found this you can try: Customers using Windows 7, Windows 8 or Windows 8.1 may not be able to successfully execute the downloaded file. Add missing ".exe" after the file name or download the file using a web browser other than Internet Explorer (e.g. Google Chrome, Mozilla Firefox). Let me know if that worked. Thanks. _Rob
Thanks as always for these great videos, Rob. Now that I finally have a new and improved computer (10 years was a long life for the old one!) I can use Workspace better. I like its intermediate-level functions, but I find the clone tool next to useless. It just doesn't work for me (literally), so I put the image into Paint.net if I need to clone something (or use layers). I actually find Paint.net pretty useful, although it is really idiosyncratic in some ways. BTW, I still haven't moved over to raw--I just can't get raw images processed nearly as well as jpgs, and it seems to be more effort. Should I really give raw a thorough try?
Another excellent tutorial like all tutorials of yours. I still wonder why Olympus is not able to speed up the software when others like Snapseed work so fast on iPads and do all the processing including masking in near real-time. Thank you for your tutorials which provide wealth of information for us, Olympus users.
I think I've referred back to this video a few times now. A quick and easy way to navigate the software. Thanks for being out there on the inter-web, Rob!
Thanks. Glad this video helped.
This is amazing. Never used the clone tool before. Thanks for the tutorial, Rob.
It's handy tool, especially for brushing out little tree branches out of the sky in a landscape.
Grazie.
Thank you!
Excellent Rob. I’ve never done post processing of my bird photos but I’m seriously thinking about it. Your video is most helpful. 👍
Thanks. Glad to help!
Terrific tutorial. Have never had the courage to try Workspace but thanks to your demo will definitely give it a go. Thanks Rob.
Thanks. Workspace is fine for simple edits. It's all I use really. I use LR and PS for my pro work.
Another great tutorial for Workspace and excellent tip on the use of the cloning too., thank you Rob.
Thanks.
Thanks for another workspace tutorial.
It may be a bit clunky and slow compared to some commercial packages, but I think it is great that Olympus provides this free software
Yes, clunky but the price is right and features that help Olympus users get the most out of their cameras.
@@wharfhouse I have a i7 8350 6x core cpu, 32gig, and gtx 1060 with 6gig, 256 ssd. For some reason the gpu select is greyed out for me. I think GPU helps the most for effects.
@@wharfhouse It's funny, my older laptop with a 4x core is faster! I need to look into this. There is something just not right about that.
Thank you sir, have learned a lot, not that I can remember, I'll keep on watching.
Glad to help, Francis.
Thanks a lot for this tutorial. Useful as always...
Thanks for watching.
Another really good video. Thanks
Thank you for watching!
There is a show grid button down in the left hand corner enabling you to get Straight Lines
Thanks! I keep forgetting about that.
Hi Rob
I took a photo in Live Composite which turned out great how can view the shutter speed in workspace to determine the amount of shots were taken.
This was during a storm I know it was at 1/2 second but I can’t see the amount of shots taken to get this result.
In the details panel, click on the camera icon. Scroll down and you'll see a line item "Composite Settings". It will say something like "Lighten mode, 17 frames".
@@RobTrek Hi Rob
Thank you for the instruction I was able to workout the time live composite took for the photo I was interested in.
Keep up the good work 📸
Hi Rob. On a lens note. Got my oly 70-300 today and now also looking out to your future photo walk with this lens. Although there have been reviews,i would like you to have a review on it and your perception. Like your vlogs.
This lens needs lots of light so will need to get out early. I've just been busy last couple of weeks. Will try this week.
@@RobTrek Appreciate. Yes light is off the essence,yet i saw great results from oly shooters.
Thanks Rob, great tutorial. I really need to start using Workspace more often and thanks for the Reset Batch file for when I get carried away with editing.
Don't use LR anymore, I do a majority of my post processing with ON1 Photo Raw 2020 and very pleased so far but will have to incorporate more of Workspace.
Workspace is great if the image is "almost" there. Forget about hardcore recovery of shadows and highlights though. Save that for ON1.
Hi Rob, can I ask for your advice. I have an olympus camera and lens, I have workspace. But I want a better picture editing program that's not to complicated, I recently tried lightroom and it was very confusing to me. Is there anything else that in your opinion that I could try.
I'm not looking to become the world's best editor just something a little faster then workspace ?. And could do a little more, I.e. masks.
Many thanks Peter.
Hi Peter. I use Photolab 7. It is similar to lightroom but gives better results. I wouldn't say it's any easier than Lightoom. Watch this tutorial I made for Photolab 6 and see if it might work for you. th-cam.com/video/0NBAceIvwFA/w-d-xo.html Luminar has a very different user interface that many have found more intuitive. Might want to check it out as well.
Hello, what is the version do you use?
Sorry, I don't recall the version.
@@RobTrek I want to install old version as I am using Windows 7. Can you upload your Olympus workspace for me to download? Thansks for your great help.
For a beginner, great video. As a question, can you add text to a picture? Elly looks like a cross collie.
I think she is collie/hound dog mix. She has quite the nose! No way to add text. Try Photoscape X free version.
I hit Alt, click for the sample, but it won't let me apply that sample to another area. What am I doing wrong?
Hi. If you're trying to brush out a second area, Workspace is very slow and it should eventually update the image. What you can do is try and clean up to spots, then wait a minute. Then export as jpg and see if the exported image shows two spots fixed. Workspace will apply all the settings before it exports, even if you don't see it right away on your screen. Let me know if that worked. -Rob
Rob, any thoughts on OM workspace vs Affinity Photo. You remain the best source for anything Olympus. Thanks!
I really like Affinity. It's certainly a very powerful all-in-one photo-editor. I don't know anything about version 2, but I've had version 1.1 for a couple of years now. I got it for $25 on a black-friday sale. Honestly, I rarely use it because I use DxO Photolab for editing and Photoshop for everything else. That said, Affinity can do focus stacking, HDR, layering, and astrophotography specific stacking. The learning curve is a little steep, but I think it's worth it. I love OM Workspace, but it has it's limits. For basic editing of single images, Workspace is really good and you probably don't need anything else. It's biggest limitation is that all the changes are global. You can't do things like dodge and burn, gradients, or selections. If you want to do more advanced editing, Affinity seems to do it all. I use DxO products because I think it gives the best results, particularly with noise reduction. Photoshop gives me layering, stacking, etc... and a smooth workflow for my paid work. Another product you might want to consider is Photoshop Elements. It's a one-time fee and does it all, including asset management. It's only limitation is it doesn't get updated as much when new cameras come out. You have to work-around converting raws to dng using adobe's free dng converter tool. Anyway, if you already have Affinity Photo, learn to use it. If not, I'd probably steer you towards Photoshop Elements. If you have the budget for it, the DxO Suite of products give the best results in my opinion.
I have a simple question. How do I get Workspace to accept a change (a crop) I make?
Once you make the crop, you simple go back to editing colors to see it live. However the crop is applied immediately so you could simply export from there.
Is the software compatible with Windows 7 (64bit)? I downloaded and installed it on my laptop with Win7/64bit but it won't work.
Hi. I don't have a Win 7 machine, but I found this you can try: Customers using Windows 7, Windows 8 or Windows 8.1 may not be able to successfully execute the downloaded file. Add missing ".exe" after the file name or download the file using a web browser other than Internet Explorer (e.g. Google Chrome, Mozilla Firefox). Let me know if that worked. Thanks. _Rob
Thanks as always for these great videos, Rob. Now that I finally have a new and improved computer (10 years was a long life for the old one!) I can use Workspace better. I like its intermediate-level functions, but I find the clone tool next to useless. It just doesn't work for me (literally), so I put the image into Paint.net if I need to clone something (or use layers). I actually find Paint.net pretty useful, although it is really idiosyncratic in some ways. BTW, I still haven't moved over to raw--I just can't get raw images processed nearly as well as jpgs, and it seems to be more effort. Should I really give raw a thorough try?
I have a raw vs jpg video you should watch. th-cam.com/video/dXu-jrAMFSA/w-d-xo.html
@@RobTrek Will do!
Good tutorial Rob...
Thanks.
Another excellent tutorial like all tutorials of yours. I still wonder why Olympus is not able to speed up the software when others like Snapseed work so fast on iPads and do all the processing including masking in near real-time. Thank you for your tutorials which provide wealth of information for us, Olympus users.
Thanks. I think Workspace is a conversion from their in-camera software, so it's not opitimized for PCs and Macs.
You have to have a lot of patience to work with that incredible slow program, even though I run it on my Macbook Pro it is extremely slow.
It's painful to do any extensive editing, even a simple crop can take several seconds!
Do you ever try to turn an negative picture into positive in Olympus Workspace?
Unfortunately, I don't see a way to do that.
@@RobTrek I play around with Olympus Workspace abit, but was not happy with the results. I thought you maybe could help me. :)
@@YohaneRockett Sure. Maybe email me a few images that you're struggling with and I can try to edit. Send the raw files to rob@robtrek.com
@@RobTrek I try to send you one.
@@YohaneRockett Got it. Will take a look tomorrow. Busy editing couple of jobs today.