I bought this exact filament to try out as well. Here in europe it is way more expensive. (55,99€ and I got it on a 10% discount). EDIT: I just saw this is about their normal nylon filament. I actually got their PA12-CF. So that explains why it is more expensive.
Remember warp-free nylons work by delaying crystallization and to do so they need a cold bed. Less than 45°C. Heating up the bed only accelerates crystallization and defeats the purpose of the warp free technology
But why they write on spool and on website temperatures above 90C? In most cases, I just do what most of the users would do, following given instructions.
Yeah, I know you try to replicate what a user would do. I don't know why they say 90-120. But AFAIK the major contribution to warping for nylons is crystallization, and having the bed well above Tg will make it crystallize despite the warp free additive while it's printing. I've had great success with a cold bed and gluestick with all the warp free nylons that I've tried. I will get a spool of YXPOLYER, check and let you know how it goes :)
I find great value in your tests. Thank you for performing and publishing them! I bought some of this on Prime day for an application of high constant stress. I learned from this video that that is not a good use case for this nylon. So you saved me from wasting time and money!
@@AlwaysCensored-xp1be they do the same with strimmer wire. If it is too brittle or breaks too easily then people soak it in a bucket of water. I have never heard of boiling them before though, does boiling it make much difference compared to just soaking it?
@@conorstewart2214 I added blue Rit dye to show which ones have been debrittled. Those Cox engines spin fast. Prop bends on bad landings instead of snapping.
I have used magigoo PA on glass and PEI surfaces (smooth and textured) and about 70C on the bed with 3 different nylon materials. Magigoo works great! Glue stick on kapton tape only for certain nylons. I have also found that less heating on the bed a large brim is better for some tricky materials like nylons and PP, so I lower or turn off the bed heating after the first 2-3 layers. One thing I have not tried yet and I would like to in the feature is a G10/FR4 "garolite" surface, that is supposedly perfect for most nylons.
have you tried any annealing tests to see what the shrinkage was? I like how this prints but would need to know what to scale my prints to , since im annealing it.
Great Content thanks! I use 3Dlac spray on a textured PEI bed which has worked great for everything i have tried to print on it so far including overture easy nylon and i had no issues with warping due to the solid adhesion. I have also printed taulman bridge nylon using the same setup and have had great results when it managed to finish the print... Unfortunately my taulman bridge is basically useless as the filament clogs and the prints most of the time fail before completion due to the filament having ridiculous tolerances. I measured the bridge filament at 2mm diameter at some points which makes it basically un-printable. I am unsure if the bridge filament is so bad due to its age as i have had it in the original packaging for atleast 5 years before i first tried to use it so maybe it swelled during that time im not sure.
Interesting. It looks like it performs much like Polymaker Polymide CoPA, which I have used quite a lot on my modified Balco / Wanhao Duplicator i3+. This filament looks like it bridges well, where in my experience The CoPA just won't bridge at all. It would be interesting to see how this prints without a printer enclosure.
I have good experience with Polymaker Polymide CoPA Nylon, too. It has excellent bed adhesion, so no warping, as they claim. I print on a Prusa MK3S with PEI sheet and glue stick (necessary because it sticks to the bed so well!). To note, Polymaker CoPA Nylon needs only a 50C bed temperature. @mytechfun, perhaps you could test the Polymaker CoPA Nylon to compare?
I’ll try to print custom suspension arms for traxxas maxx with it. Every other materials are proven to not suit the application. Even PC is too brittle
I print mostly in carbon fiber nylon, peek-cf, pa12-cf, pa6-cf, & pet-cf. My routine for printing ALL nylons is warp free, strong, and used for extremely harse use, lol. I print all nylons as follows... With nylons, i use a carbon fiber bed, g10, or a titanium coated flexible magnetic bed. I ONLY, again...ONLY use elmers magic disappearing purple glue sticks. Typically, i use magigoo or other more "expensive/premium" bed adhesives. But with all nylons, only elmers purple glue sticks! Pre-heat the bed to 90°c, and print the 1st 3 to 5 layers with the bed @ 90°c Then, drop the bex temp to 32°c after the initial 3/5 layers I typically print 280° to 300° depending on the brand of nylon I print with 100%, infill and only use "gyroid" infill pattern.... this is rhe key to no warping. No fans or cooling at all, and you must print in a enclosed platform.... keeping the inside temp around 70° even... with very very still air inside the enclosure. Its also a must to dry all nylon filaments at 70°c for atleast 24 hours with the moisture reading at 10% to 12%. No warping, bending or creep. Hardened steel or titanium nozzles only with a high temp set up. Hope this helps and have a wonderful day!
@MyTechFun I only use and buy qidi printers. I run this same formula in my Qidi x-plus 2, qidi x-max 2 and 3 ( 3 is the newest ), and I also have the qidi CF-pro. But with qidi, all three of those printers come with a high temp extruder set up and a "normal temp extruder"... so they all have the same exact high temp nozzles. Also, another tip that I did was I, but that thermal blanket material that you take camping and things like wilderness survival.... and I just cut 2 of them up and used double side tape... all three printers hold and lock all that heat from the bed and direct drive high temp extruders... they absolutely don't need an "enclosure heating system"
@szekerespista3758 no problem at all... this community is always excellent with helping me with everything I ever needed... so I pass on that same curiosity 👍👍
@MyTechFun What is name of the torque meter you are using? I use a torque meter to test the strength of my 3d printable hardware designs but the one I have doesn't measure anything lower than 17 Nm. Most of my tool designs can get up to between 20 Nm to 80 Nm so my torque meter works fine but the smaller tools I make are not needed for torque over 17 Nm and I haven't been able to test them. Do you have a link for the torque meter you used in the video? An affiliate link is fine if you have one.
I bought this exact filament to try out as well. Here in europe it is way more expensive. (55,99€ and I got it on a 10% discount).
EDIT: I just saw this is about their normal nylon filament. I actually got their PA12-CF. So that explains why it is more expensive.
Remember warp-free nylons work by delaying crystallization and to do so they need a cold bed. Less than 45°C. Heating up the bed only accelerates crystallization and defeats the purpose of the warp free technology
But why they write on spool and on website temperatures above 90C? In most cases, I just do what most of the users would do, following given instructions.
Yeah, I know you try to replicate what a user would do.
I don't know why they say 90-120. But AFAIK the major contribution to warping for nylons is crystallization, and having the bed well above Tg will make it crystallize despite the warp free additive while it's printing.
I've had great success with a cold bed and gluestick with all the warp free nylons that I've tried. I will get a spool of YXPOLYER, check and let you know how it goes :)
If this is true this explains soooo much!
Will let you know too. I already ordered it.
I find great value in your tests. Thank you for performing and publishing them! I bought some of this on Prime day for an application of high constant stress. I learned from this video that that is not a good use case for this nylon. So you saved me from wasting time and money!
Glass bed smooth side no heating = sticks perfect and no warping
Leave the timing belt a few days or soak it in water. Nylon gets more flexible as it absorbs water.
I used to boil my nylon model plane propellers otherwise they can shatter.
@@AlwaysCensored-xp1be they do the same with strimmer wire. If it is too brittle or breaks too easily then people soak it in a bucket of water. I have never heard of boiling them before though, does boiling it make much difference compared to just soaking it?
@@conorstewart2214 I added blue Rit dye to show which ones have been debrittled. Those Cox engines spin fast. Prop bends on bad landings instead of snapping.
I have used magigoo PA on glass and PEI surfaces (smooth and textured) and about 70C on the bed with 3 different nylon materials. Magigoo works great! Glue stick on kapton tape only for certain nylons. I have also found that less heating on the bed a large brim is better for some tricky materials like nylons and PP, so I lower or turn off the bed heating after the first 2-3 layers. One thing I have not tried yet and I would like to in the feature is a G10/FR4 "garolite" surface, that is supposedly perfect for most nylons.
have you tried any annealing tests to see what the shrinkage was? I like how this prints but would need to know what to scale my prints to , since im annealing it.
Not with nylon, yes with PLA and PC (Polycarbonate). I will get from them CF version, those are better for annealing.
Great test as usual. Very helpful... Thanks
Great Content thanks! I use 3Dlac spray on a textured PEI bed which has worked great for everything i have tried to print on it so far including overture easy nylon and i had no issues with warping due to the solid adhesion. I have also printed taulman bridge nylon using the same setup and have had great results when it managed to finish the print... Unfortunately my taulman bridge is basically useless as the filament clogs and the prints most of the time fail before completion due to the filament having ridiculous tolerances. I measured the bridge filament at 2mm diameter at some points which makes it basically un-printable. I am unsure if the bridge filament is so bad due to its age as i have had it in the original packaging for atleast 5 years before i first tried to use it so maybe it swelled during that time im not sure.
Interesting. It looks like it performs much like Polymaker Polymide CoPA, which I have used quite a lot on my modified Balco / Wanhao Duplicator i3+. This filament looks like it bridges well, where in my experience The CoPA just won't bridge at all. It would be interesting to see how this prints without a printer enclosure.
I have good experience with Polymaker Polymide CoPA Nylon, too. It has excellent bed adhesion, so no warping, as they claim. I print on a Prusa MK3S with PEI sheet and glue stick (necessary because it sticks to the bed so well!). To note, Polymaker CoPA Nylon needs only a 50C bed temperature.
@mytechfun, perhaps you could test the Polymaker CoPA Nylon to compare?
I wish any of this was easily shippable to Serbia. Jealous of EU! Oh, well, when I need it, I'll manage somehow.
I’ll try to print custom suspension arms for traxxas maxx with it. Every other materials are proven to not suit the application. Even PC is too brittle
I print mostly in carbon fiber nylon, peek-cf, pa12-cf, pa6-cf, & pet-cf. My routine for printing ALL nylons is warp free, strong, and used for extremely harse use, lol. I print all nylons as follows...
With nylons, i use a carbon fiber bed, g10, or a titanium coated flexible magnetic bed. I ONLY, again...ONLY use elmers magic disappearing purple glue sticks. Typically, i use magigoo or other more "expensive/premium" bed adhesives. But with all nylons, only elmers purple glue sticks!
Pre-heat the bed to 90°c, and print the 1st 3 to 5 layers with the bed @ 90°c
Then, drop the bex temp to 32°c after the initial 3/5 layers
I typically print 280° to 300° depending on the brand of nylon
I print with 100%, infill and only use "gyroid" infill pattern.... this is rhe key to no warping.
No fans or cooling at all, and you must print in a enclosed platform.... keeping the inside temp around 70° even... with very very still air inside the enclosure.
Its also a must to dry all nylon filaments at 70°c for atleast 24 hours with the moisture reading at 10% to 12%.
No warping, bending or creep. Hardened steel or titanium nozzles only with a high temp set up. Hope this helps and have a wonderful day!
Thank you for these tips. What 3D printer are you using? Hard to find one which can be heated to 70°C (enclosure)
Thankyou for the info!❤
@MyTechFun I only use and buy qidi printers. I run this same formula in my Qidi x-plus 2, qidi x-max 2 and 3 ( 3 is the newest ), and I also have the qidi CF-pro.
But with qidi, all three of those printers come with a high temp extruder set up and a "normal temp extruder"... so they all have the same exact high temp nozzles. Also, another tip that I did was I, but that thermal blanket material that you take camping and things like wilderness survival.... and I just cut 2 of them up and used double side tape... all three printers hold and lock all that heat from the bed and direct drive high temp extruders... they absolutely don't need an "enclosure heating system"
@szekerespista3758 no problem at all... this community is always excellent with helping me with everything I ever needed... so I pass on that same curiosity 👍👍
@MyTechFun What is name of the torque meter you are using? I use a torque meter to test the strength of my 3d printable hardware designs but the one I have doesn't measure anything lower than 17 Nm. Most of my tool designs can get up to between 20 Nm to 80 Nm so my torque meter works fine but the smaller tools I make are not needed for torque over 17 Nm and I haven't been able to test them. Do you have a link for the torque meter you used in the video? An affiliate link is fine if you have one.
Kkmoon 0.3-30 Nm, but the link is not live any more.
@@MyTechFun Thanks!! 👍 I'll just look for a similar one then.
950 Rosanna Trail
Hettinger Brook
Fritsch Oval
Anderson Kevin Hernandez Donald Young John
Go with 120bed
With PA sheet? Hm, didnt tried that. Personal experience?
@@MyTechFun no pa sheet doesn’t work with this material it will damage it
@@MyTechFun this material is amazing only down side it warps . I have used it in on of my projects where I printed a fuse rack and relays holder
86103 Albert Ferry