VIDEO SCHEDULE INFORMATION: Part 2 will be uploaded on Sunday the 28th. Part 3 will be uploaded on Wednesday the 1st of May. I am still busy editing these two videos.
Still have my 70s-80s-90s cassette collection so this video series is much appreciated! Yes I have many compilation tapes on C-90 cassettes etc as well as commercial albums released on cassette back in the day. Most if not all play very well although have had to replace with CD's maybe 10-12 in recent years, which flies in the face of many pundits opinions on the projected life spans of this analogue media. Always loved the "high-end" Yamaha Natural Sound audio components and still use religiously. Apparently the kids are getting back into analogue late in this year 2022, which brings a certain Cheshire Cat grin to my face. Thanks again and cheers!
Epoxy usually works fine for that kind of repair, I have fixed a lot of damaged buttons on 90’s Macintosh computers the same way, back in those days the front panel buttons on the computers were almost always made this way. Also, a bit of sanding before has proved to be a big advantage. Imagine if the only problem with this deck was the de-attached spring. A lot of people would probably have thrown it away just because of that... I know not many people has the knowledge/possibility/patience to fix these things but one can’t deny that throwing away stuff in that manner is quite some wasting of material.
This cassette deck is simply VERY NICE! Congrats! I agree, one of the last beauties before CDs, CD-RWs and finally mp3 disrupted the market. And good work with the repair/restoration, not easy, you have a lot of knowledge, patience and find good solutions to resolve problems. Some people, including me, might be tempted to give their opinions on how to resolve some problems... like the missing button but in the end it is your equipment, your project. I will watch the next chapter. Thanks.
You should like this Yamaha 3 header, it only lacks Direct Drive - very similar mechanism like Akai GX-95, 65, and many others. As for the pin being to short, some metal epoxy to build up the missing material would work. These machines have very good heads and should last long time. Play Trim is very cool feature - with some tapes made on different decks really helps in proper Dolby tracking. You will notice that Yamahas sound softer than Akai and many other decks. Very nice find, wow. Best luck with it 👍
Interesting. I have the black Yamaha KX-650 with virtually all the same features; dual capstan drive, three heads and Dolby A, B and C. It works well and as I got it at the time when many were shifting to CDs, it was virtually unused when I got it. I'll be interested to see how that repair goes. Cheers!
The KX-650 was the middle-of-the-line in 1991. There are some differences, for example the Auto Tape Tuning function is missing on your deck. And by the way, no cassette deck ever had Dolby A. That was an extremely sophisticated noise reduction system designed for recording studios in the 70s. Dolby B was the cheap consumer version of that system.
@@DrCassette Thank you for pointing that out to me. On closer inspection it says "Dolby Off-B-C", pardon me for not looking closer. I await Sundays video with interest. I got it as [art of a lot with a TEAC cassette machine of similar function to the Yamaha functions, a Kenwood 5020 Amplifier and a pair of Mordant-Short loud-speaker units. Definitly 'middle-range' for their time but still working well, although the Kenwood amplifiers 'input selector' rotor is a bit slippy but with careful handling, it finds the tuner and tapes. It's a bit more than just a drum or row behind the faceplate. Cheers now.
Hey Dr. Cassette, I have a Sony Cassette Deck in our living room hooked up to a Olympus stereo system! Some scratchs on the unit that's fine. Record button won't allow me to record off the radio.🤔
Three weeks ago I saw a Black 2 head Yamaha at Goodwill Thrift Store. I didn't pick it up, as it didn't power up when I plugged it in, but the button array appeared the same as this one. If you are interested in black button on this otherwise grey deck, I can see if it is still there, and grab it for the buttons.
I don’t know where to ask this query. I have an issue with auto reverse cassette deck Luxman K 105. It sounds great, it offers fantastic recording results, but for some odd reasons, it cannot record METAL tapes well. The left channel has a maximum output of no more than 3dB while the right channel is silent. I noticed there is excessive distortion on the left channel and too much compression when I record metal cassettes. When I cover the holes on the top of the metal cassettes, the deck recognizes metal cassettes as chrome, and he records them without any problems. The output is strong, and it goes over +6dB, and it's distortion-free. What’s the issue, and why the deck behaves like this when he records METAL cassettes? It would be logical to the cassette deck behave in the same way while he records ferric or chrome cassettes as he behaves when he records METAL cassettes. I don’t know what to do. Any assistance is appreciated.
Certain sections of the cassette deck electronics are different for each type of tape. There are different internal adjustments for each type of tape. Your fault description sounds like in Metal position there is either no bias at all or the bias is extremely low. Please refer to the service manual for your cassette deck (should be available online) for instructions on how to adjust bias.
@@DrCassette Thank you for the advice. I hope I'll manage to find the way how to fix this because this cassette deck doesn't have a bias adjustment knob. Everything is 100% automatized, including auto bias calibration.
I am about to repair a technics RS-TR232 right now. Really weird issue. Sound stopped while playing, now the level meters are always 100%. My guess (and hope) is that only a transistor in the PSU area burnt (hopefully not the audio IC itself). Everything else works, just the audio doesn't. Good thing is I found the schematics. Only very low res, but better than nothing.
Yes, having the schematics is important. Do check the power supply, but with the level meters at 100% it seems to me like some component shorted out and you now have DC in the audio signal. Good luck with the repairs!
@@DrCassette found the error. Even if the electrolytics looked fine, one was shorted. (Never had that before...) I replaced it ( with a bad high ESR semi-bulged one I had lying around for now :( ) and now everything works. Took hours of multi meter usage to find it, but was a good training for me ( EE student ;) ). The shorted cap pulled the base of one of the main transistors low. If I have enough time I will fully recap the PSU section, I have lost my faith in it, even if the caps are panasonic Matsushita ones.
I can't believe somebody would throw an expensive piece of equipment in the trash. Yamaha were on par with Denon and Marantz. I do prefer micro switch buttons and silent mechanical noises as opposed to the traditional clunky mechanical buttons.
Get belt from MARS, very close to original Japanese to keep W&F low and stable speed. Not cheap but will last and perform longer than some unknown replacements. Relatively easy to change, and since the mechanism can be removed from chassis put some synthetic oil into capstan bearings.
I do have a Yamaha KX-670 which I bought new in the 1990s, I paid 647,00DM for it. Even the original box is has survived. The tape deck itself has some issues. It makes a squeeling noise and plays a little to slow. Probably the mother or capstan bearings have run dry.
Yup, that looks like the type of transformer that would normally have a thermal fuse buried in the windings. The downside to that, is if the thermal fuse blows, it practically can not be replaced as the windings are usually wound on top of the thermal fuse.
@@TehMG Yes it can be costly and time consuming, I have installed a simple fuse holder soldered to the power cord and with heat shrink inside the equipment in cases like that. Quick, effective, cheap solution. Example: www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-5x20mm-AGC-Glass-Fuse-Holder-In-line-Screw-Type-With-22-AWG-Wire-Cable-E1/232799229005?hash=item3633ea544d:g:UjYAAOSwk95bGwEU&frcectupt=true
Hi doctor...I got yamaha KX-690 ..the play button doesn't work once pressed it goes 1/2 turns then stop...please please need solution...I"ll be much thankful for reply... Cheer's
Could be bad belts. Seems like your cassette deck tries to play but then triggers the auto stop. So basically something that should be moving does not move.
Service manual is available on the web for 690. Also ask people at tapeheads.net - there are some very knowledgeable people there. Like Doctor said first check for belt issues, sometimes motor problems. Get service manual first.
Thanks for the great video. Belts replaced, and its working. Except that the cassette keeps disengaging...it starts to play, but then stops. Same with FF. Any ideas? Thanks! Andrew
Make sure the sections with the back and white pattern around the takeup and supply reels are clean and can be read by the optical sensors. If this system can not work because for example it has pieces of the old belt in the way, it will trigger the auto stop.
I have one, black version. Mine is within specs range despite its age. Sounds great on IV type tape. Maybe little adjustments needs to be made, but it's okay as it is. I simply enjoying while using old hi-fi tech.
Hi, I have a Yamaha Stereo Cassette Deck KX-870, bought around 1999 in Germany. I live now in Thailand and have now a problem with this cassette deck. When I push the start button the tape runs aound 3 seconds but then stop automatically. I would be really happy if you could give me a tip to tepair the deck by myself or give me an advice where I could let repair the deck or where I could get spare parts. Thank you in advance.
Check torque on the take-up side. Highly probable there is not enough friction to pull the tape into the cassette and it stops by automatic stop as the cassette reel is not moving. This will require to disassemble tape transport to get to the reel mechanics. Sony has gears there and many others use such called "tire", which wears and needs replacement.
I really think you should get into 3D printing, it would help repairs in your hobby so much, I know that 3D printable parts have changed what I do so much with my vintage electronics. Being able to just make a part that functions like the original is awesome.
@@DrCassette you're right, but I feel like there's plenty of TH-camrs out there that would mock one up for you. AkBkuKu is really good at this kinda stuff, he could make that button in a few minutes
For me they would have to also build a cheap 3D scanner to go along with the printer. As I wouldn't have the patience to spend hours creating a 3D model of such a button.
Nice looking deck, but those tiny plastic parts give me the heeby jeebies. The mechanical stresses this material has to endure during the life span of the product... I am much more comfortable with reinforced concrete😀. Plastic is such a tempramental material, it’s flexible and brittle at the same time. Some plastics seem to get brittle after a certain age, like those pins but also gears in some products.
Metal would be more solid, but the plastic in this cassette deck seems to be OK. My theory is that some child violently pulled on the cassette door and that caused the plastic pins to break. Under normal conditions these pins would be good enough for reliable service.
VIDEO SCHEDULE INFORMATION: Part 2 will be uploaded on Sunday the 28th. Part 3 will be uploaded on Wednesday the 1st of May. I am still busy editing these two videos.
Ok, Therefore i can find it. Greetings.
That idea using screws to replace those broken pins was great, next time I need to do a similar repair I'll try that.
I've done that too!
Still have my 70s-80s-90s cassette collection so this video series is much appreciated! Yes I have many compilation tapes on C-90 cassettes etc as well as commercial albums released on cassette back in the day. Most if not all play very well although have had to replace with CD's maybe 10-12 in recent years, which flies in the face of many pundits opinions on the projected life spans of this analogue media. Always loved the "high-end" Yamaha Natural Sound audio components and still use religiously. Apparently the kids are getting back into analogue late in this year 2022, which brings a certain Cheshire Cat grin to my face. Thanks again and cheers!
Epoxy usually works fine for that kind of repair, I have fixed a lot of damaged buttons on 90’s Macintosh computers the same way, back in those days the front panel buttons on the computers were almost always made this way. Also, a bit of sanding before has proved to be a big advantage.
Imagine if the only problem with this deck was the de-attached spring. A lot of people would probably have thrown it away just because of that... I know not many people has the knowledge/possibility/patience to fix these things but one can’t deny that throwing away stuff in that manner is quite some wasting of material.
This cassette deck is simply VERY NICE! Congrats! I agree, one of the last beauties before CDs, CD-RWs and finally mp3 disrupted the market. And good work with the repair/restoration, not easy, you have a lot of knowledge, patience and find good solutions to resolve problems. Some people, including me, might be tempted to give their opinions on how to resolve some problems... like the missing button but in the end it is your equipment, your project. I will watch the next chapter. Thanks.
You should like this Yamaha 3 header, it only lacks Direct Drive - very similar mechanism like Akai GX-95, 65, and many others. As for the pin being to short, some metal epoxy to build up the missing material would work. These machines have very good heads and should last long time. Play Trim is very cool feature - with some tapes made on different decks really helps in proper Dolby tracking. You will notice that Yamahas sound softer than Akai and many other decks. Very nice find, wow. Best luck with it 👍
Interesting. I have the black Yamaha KX-650 with virtually all the same features; dual capstan drive, three heads and Dolby A, B and C. It works well and as I got it at the time when many were shifting to CDs, it was virtually unused when I got it. I'll be interested to see how that repair goes. Cheers!
The KX-650 was the middle-of-the-line in 1991. There are some differences, for example the Auto Tape Tuning function is missing on your deck. And by the way, no cassette deck ever had Dolby A. That was an extremely sophisticated noise reduction system designed for recording studios in the 70s. Dolby B was the cheap consumer version of that system.
@@DrCassette Thank you for pointing that out to me. On closer inspection it says "Dolby Off-B-C", pardon me for not looking closer. I await Sundays video with interest.
I got it as [art of a lot with a TEAC cassette machine of similar function to the Yamaha functions, a Kenwood 5020 Amplifier and a pair of Mordant-Short loud-speaker units. Definitly 'middle-range' for their time but still working well, although the Kenwood amplifiers 'input selector' rotor is a bit slippy but with careful handling, it finds the tuner and tapes. It's a bit more than just a drum or row behind the faceplate. Cheers now.
Nice deck, easy repairs, 3d print or a substitute button will repair the stop button, long as it looks the same
Too bad you couldn't have someone 3d print a replacement stop button. Love your work. Thanks for the vid.
Hey Dr. Cassette, I have a Sony Cassette Deck in our living room hooked up to a Olympus stereo system! Some scratchs on the unit that's fine. Record button won't allow me to record off the radio.🤔
Nice job. Are you going to make a blank to cover the hole? Little bit of black plastic and glue it in from behind the faceplate.
No, I am not going to cover up that button just in case I ever do end up needing the Record Mute function.
@@DrCassette ah, OK. That would annoy the tits off me looking at the hole. Lol.
Excellent condition inside. Looks like it's been in a clean non smoking house
I would love to own that Deck..
excellent repair...well done.
Nice find! Looking forward to part 2
Thank you! I am very happy to see it saved!
Nice cassette deck. Real sleeper. Thanks for the video!
Three weeks ago I saw a Black 2 head Yamaha at Goodwill Thrift Store. I didn't pick it up, as it didn't power up when I plugged it in, but the button array appeared the same as this one. If you are interested in black button on this otherwise grey deck, I can see if it is still there, and grab it for the buttons.
No thanks, let's not ship some plastic buttons from the US all the way to Europe ;)
Very nice dump finds you got there. I'm slightly jealous ;)
It's hit and miss, I have gone to the dump many times and found absolutely nothing worthwhile.
@@DrCassette Here in Bulgaria we don't even have dumps for electronics and if we had it won't be anything interesting for sure.
Looks very well made and good quality PCB.
Great surgery Dr. Cassette
I could never understand why Yamaha refused to put proper coloured plastic markers in their phono in/out connectors.
Might be just a tiny little bit cheaper that way... I know Onkyo on some of their equipment does not have coloured RCA connectors either.
And we wait thanks for sharing
Solid Deck... Good Mech.. solid construction..
I don’t know where to ask this query. I have an issue with auto reverse cassette deck Luxman K 105. It sounds great, it offers fantastic recording results, but for some odd reasons, it cannot record METAL tapes well. The left channel has a maximum output of no more than 3dB while the right channel is silent. I noticed there is excessive distortion on the left channel and too much compression when I record metal cassettes. When I cover the holes on the top of the metal cassettes, the deck recognizes metal cassettes as chrome, and he records them without any problems. The output is strong, and it goes over +6dB, and it's distortion-free. What’s the issue, and why the deck behaves like this when he records METAL cassettes? It would be logical to the cassette deck behave in the same way while he records ferric or chrome cassettes as he behaves when he records METAL cassettes. I don’t know what to do. Any assistance is appreciated.
Certain sections of the cassette deck electronics are different for each type of tape. There are different internal adjustments for each type of tape. Your fault description sounds like in Metal position there is either no bias at all or the bias is extremely low. Please refer to the service manual for your cassette deck (should be available online) for instructions on how to adjust bias.
@@DrCassette Thank you for the advice. I hope I'll manage to find the way how to fix this because this cassette deck doesn't have a bias adjustment knob. Everything is 100% automatized, including auto bias calibration.
I am about to repair a technics RS-TR232 right now. Really weird issue. Sound stopped while playing, now the level meters are always 100%. My guess (and hope) is that only a transistor in the PSU area burnt (hopefully not the audio IC itself).
Everything else works, just the audio doesn't.
Good thing is I found the schematics. Only very low res, but better than nothing.
Yes, having the schematics is important. Do check the power supply, but with the level meters at 100% it seems to me like some component shorted out and you now have DC in the audio signal. Good luck with the repairs!
@@DrCassette found the error. Even if the electrolytics looked fine, one was shorted. (Never had that before...) I replaced it ( with a bad high ESR semi-bulged one I had lying around for now :( ) and now everything works. Took hours of multi meter usage to find it, but was a good training for me ( EE student ;) ). The shorted cap pulled the base of one of the main transistors low.
If I have enough time I will fully recap the PSU section, I have lost my faith in it, even if the caps are panasonic Matsushita ones.
Thank you for your endepth video instructions. So I was successful to replace both belts. Now the recorder does it's work properly. I'm very happy!
You are welcome, I am glad this video was helpful :)
I can't believe somebody would throw an expensive piece of equipment in the trash. Yamaha were on par with Denon and Marantz. I do prefer micro switch buttons and silent mechanical noises as opposed to the traditional clunky mechanical buttons.
It's in Germany where everybody has deep pockets.
I have a Nakamichi silver about 1992 with adjustable azimuth head. How easy /difficult to replace a belt?
Replacing the belts probably won't be easy on that deck.
Get belt from MARS, very close to original Japanese to keep W&F low and stable speed. Not cheap but will last and perform longer than some unknown replacements. Relatively easy to change, and since the mechanism can be removed from chassis put some synthetic oil into capstan bearings.
Get service manual for your Nak - makes life much easier : diagrams and schematics
Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1 Limited
Look at this beauty
I do have a Yamaha KX-670 which I bought new in the 1990s, I paid 647,00DM for it. Even the original box is has survived. The tape deck itself has some issues. It makes a squeeling noise and plays a little to slow. Probably the mother or capstan bearings have run dry.
Beautiful deck! There should be a thermal fuse hidden inside that white plastic part of the transformer.
Yup, that looks like the type of transformer that would normally have a thermal fuse buried in the windings.
The downside to that, is if the thermal fuse blows, it practically can not be replaced as the windings are usually wound on top of the thermal fuse.
@@TehMG Yes it can be costly and time consuming, I have installed a simple fuse holder soldered to the power cord and with heat shrink inside the equipment in cases like that. Quick, effective, cheap solution. Example: www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-5x20mm-AGC-Glass-Fuse-Holder-In-line-Screw-Type-With-22-AWG-Wire-Cable-E1/232799229005?hash=item3633ea544d:g:UjYAAOSwk95bGwEU&frcectupt=true
Hi doctor...I got yamaha KX-690 ..the play button doesn't work once pressed it goes 1/2 turns then stop...please please need solution...I"ll be much thankful for reply... Cheer's
Could be bad belts. Seems like your cassette deck tries to play but then triggers the auto stop. So basically something that should be moving does not move.
Service manual is available on the web for 690. Also ask people at tapeheads.net - there are some very knowledgeable people there. Like Doctor said first check for belt issues, sometimes motor problems. Get service manual first.
Thanks for the great video. Belts replaced, and its working. Except that the cassette keeps disengaging...it starts to play, but then stops. Same with FF. Any ideas? Thanks! Andrew
Make sure the sections with the back and white pattern around the takeup and supply reels are clean and can be read by the optical sensors. If this system can not work because for example it has pieces of the old belt in the way, it will trigger the auto stop.
@@DrCassette Thanks much! We'll give that a try...
Nice. I wish we could find hard rubbish equipment this nice in Australia.
This color is more desirable than black due to 80's and 90's decks being black theme mostly.
That would look great with my CDX-1030 CD player...
It certainly would!
I have one, black version. Mine is within specs range despite its age. Sounds great on IV type tape. Maybe little adjustments needs to be made, but it's okay as it is. I simply enjoying while using old hi-fi tech.
FYI, unlike in German, in English we do not say “LC display”, even if “LCD display” is redundant. (Same with “ISBN number” and others. ;) )
I deliberately say LC display to give some differentiation from a full colour LCD screen.
Hi, I have a Yamaha Stereo Cassette Deck KX-870, bought around 1999 in Germany. I live now in Thailand and have now a problem with this cassette deck. When I push the start button the tape runs aound 3 seconds but then stop automatically. I would be really happy if you could give me a tip to tepair the deck by myself or give me an advice where I could let repair the deck or where I could get spare parts. Thank you in advance.
Check torque on the take-up side. Highly probable there is not enough friction to pull the tape into the cassette and it stops by automatic stop as the cassette reel is not moving. This will require to disassemble tape transport to get to the reel mechanics. Sony has gears there and many others use such called "tire", which wears and needs replacement.
I really think you should get into 3D printing, it would help repairs in your hobby so much, I know that 3D printable parts have changed what I do so much with my vintage electronics. Being able to just make a part that functions like the original is awesome.
I would need a 3D scanner to go along with the printer. As I wouldn't have the patience to spend hours creating a 3D model of such a button ;)
@@DrCassette you're right, but I feel like there's plenty of TH-camrs out there that would mock one up for you. AkBkuKu is really good at this kinda stuff, he could make that button in a few minutes
I can't just ask a random person to do all the work for me.
Can u fix my auna duke? The motor for cassette doesn't play
I don't do commissioned work. Also, I am sorry to say, that Auna Duke thing is not worth any technician's time ;)
Hey! No one leaves anything like this in the rubbish around here :-) I have a KX-580 that's a little under the weather, might have a look at it now...
I would move the record button over to the play button position...I would think you would play more than record...right??
And what would be the point of doing that?
Can't wait for affordable 3D printers to get more precise to the point where such a button could be printed and replaced.
For me they would have to also build a cheap 3D scanner to go along with the printer. As I wouldn't have the patience to spend hours creating a 3D model of such a button.
Why not make an extra button with a 3D printer?
You could use a nylon bolt in the door stop which would break if someone forced the door all the way open.
That's a great find
Can you not 3D print a new button or maybe cast a new one from resin?
That is certainly possible, but too much work for me.
nice find
Part 2 now please 😀
I'm still working on editing that video ;)
@@DrCassette noooowwwww
It might use fusible resistors
great skills
Nice looking deck, but those tiny plastic parts give me the heeby jeebies. The mechanical stresses this material has to endure during the life span of the product... I am much more comfortable with reinforced concrete😀. Plastic is such a tempramental material, it’s flexible and brittle at the same time. Some plastics seem to get brittle after a certain age, like those pins but also gears in some products.
Metal would be more solid, but the plastic in this cassette deck seems to be OK. My theory is that some child violently pulled on the cassette door and that caused the plastic pins to break. Under normal conditions these pins would be good enough for reliable service.
Like human bones and human teeth.
Yamaha is very good decks
Yamaha equipment is pretty good, but usually very difficult to service.