With all the inspections complete it's time to start reassembling the bottom end. As a bonus Dave talks through how the gearbox works in a bit more detail too
That segment when you manually selected the gears and showed us how power is delivered from the crankshaft to the output shaft was SO CLEAR and easy to understand. Love your videos!
very nice, thank you for the internal tour. been ages since i last rebuilt any engine and i must say that the ones i have done were so much more worn. so relaxing though just watching someone else do the work! lol, thanks again for the share.
The dots are used as codes for the sizing of the crank journals. I.e green is bigger than red which is bigger than purple... There is then a chart in the service manual for working out what shell size to use. so a red con rod hole and red big end crank journal would require a red shell. Or a green crankcase bore and purple crank main journal would require a yellow shell. Other manufacturers use punch marks or etched letters for the same job. Only game is when the paint has come off. Then you need to plastigage the bearing or measure within a few microns to work it out! Hope that makes sense
Incredible wealth of information!! Thank you for the hard work creating this series. Now to check my XR valve clearances. Any thoughts as to simply stretching the OEM cam chain tensioner spring (so chain isn't loose when warm) vs. a manual tensioner? I imagine the dynamic nature of the OEM tensioner is preferred as chain wears and for different engine speeds.
The tensioner shouldn't ever slacken, so a manual tensioner is very easy, they don't need adjusting very often so they are the safe bet. I've not had any issues with the stock BMW tensioners but know some people who've changed them. Some of the engines are naturally noisy so it may not all be tensioner!
@@obsession_engineering could also be a matter of low oil levels. I added to the top of the peek window, and the tensioner seems to stay more "full" on cold start.
Great videos! I have one question regarding my 2015 BMW S1000XR, witch has basically the same engine as the S1000RR in the videos: A have a bad bearing on the input shaft. Can I remove the input shaft and the bearings, without splitting the crankcase of the engine in half? Is this possible? Or how would you solve a bad bearing on the input shaft? Thanks for you answer!
brilliant video diary Dave! what price are you looking at for this type of work been done to an s1000rr engine? I appreciate its dependent on parts overall, but an idea would be appreciated.. i have a 2011 (61 plate) which i would be interested having this done on. its at 16,000 miles now.
Hi Simon, going on the assumption it'd want the usual parts (shells, stem seals, rod bolts, gaskets, updated oil pressure valve, etc you'd be around £1100, if it wants rings they're about £250. A road bike at that mileage shouldn't need them but a track bike might, the leak down test will give a good indication. Working on a complete bike (as opposed to just an engine already out of a frame), expect around £700 in labour. Hope that give you a good idea of costs. If there's any worn gears or anything else that needs attention that would of course bump the costs up
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Very talented , thanks for sharing all the information.👍
That segment when you manually selected the gears and showed us how power is delivered from the crankshaft to the output shaft was SO CLEAR and easy to understand. Love your videos!
Thanks, glad the explanation came through well
Really Awesome Content Dave!
Thank you very much!!
Very very informative and good serie of this engine. Thank you very much!
very nice, thank you for the internal tour. been ages since i last rebuilt any engine and i must say that the ones i have done were so much more worn. so relaxing though just watching someone else do the work! lol, thanks again for the share.
Love the no nonsense videos with a tinge of humor! Keep up the nice work. :)
Great vids 🖒
Dave, excellent presentation and easily understood. Is it possible to briefly explain the coloured dots on the crank and rods. Thanks👍👍👍👍
The dots are used as codes for the sizing of the crank journals. I.e green is bigger than red which is bigger than purple... There is then a chart in the service manual for working out what shell size to use. so a red con rod hole and red big end crank journal would require a red shell. Or a green crankcase bore and purple crank main journal would require a yellow shell.
Other manufacturers use punch marks or etched letters for the same job. Only game is when the paint has come off. Then you need to plastigage the bearing or measure within a few microns to work it out!
Hope that makes sense
Dave .... Thanks alot for that, sure does clear the muddy water (LOL). Now the search for the service manual.
Loving the content, great stuff Dave!👌
Incredible wealth of information!! Thank you for the hard work creating this series. Now to check my XR valve clearances. Any thoughts as to simply stretching the OEM cam chain tensioner spring (so chain isn't loose when warm) vs. a manual tensioner? I imagine the dynamic nature of the OEM tensioner is preferred as chain wears and for different engine speeds.
The tensioner shouldn't ever slacken, so a manual tensioner is very easy, they don't need adjusting very often so they are the safe bet.
I've not had any issues with the stock BMW tensioners but know some people who've changed them. Some of the engines are naturally noisy so it may not all be tensioner!
@@obsession_engineering could also be a matter of low oil levels. I added to the top of the peek window, and the tensioner seems to stay more "full" on cold start.
Great videos!
I have one question regarding my 2015 BMW S1000XR, witch has basically the same engine as the S1000RR in the videos:
A have a bad bearing on the input shaft. Can I remove the input shaft and the bearings, without splitting the crankcase of the engine in half? Is this possible? Or how would you solve a bad bearing on the input shaft? Thanks for you answer!
I've never tried it swap an input shaft bearing without splitting the motor and don't think it'd be possible unfortunately
brilliant video diary Dave! what price are you looking at for this type of work been done to an s1000rr engine? I appreciate its dependent on parts overall, but an idea would be appreciated.. i have a 2011 (61 plate) which i would be interested having this done on. its at 16,000 miles now.
Hi Simon, going on the assumption it'd want the usual parts (shells, stem seals, rod bolts, gaskets, updated oil pressure valve, etc you'd be around £1100, if it wants rings they're about £250. A road bike at that mileage shouldn't need them but a track bike might, the leak down test will give a good indication.
Working on a complete bike (as opposed to just an engine already out of a frame), expect around £700 in labour.
Hope that give you a good idea of costs. If there's any worn gears or anything else that needs attention that would of course bump the costs up
Great Video, one thing though, what are the torque specs and sequence for the case bolts?
All listed in the workshop manual and I'd always recommend getting the manual before diving in
Sir, what do you use for crankcase sealant?
Three bond 1215
In the past I’ve used Hylomar for HD engine cases but I’ll switch to the TB 1215 now.