How To Replace the Worn Seat Bushings- BMW Z3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- We are replacing the infamous seat bushings on New Blue, my BMW Z3, after an accident that nearly took the life of a friend (joking- check out the video).
Bushings from Ebay:
My $5 ones are gone, but here is a guy out of NY selling the same thing (I think) for $11 with free 4 day shipping:
www.ebay.com/i...
More expensive bushings from Amazon:
amzn.to/3NCsjjJ
Full disclosure: I am now an Amazon Associate; I will earn a small commission if you use the link above, but your price will NOT increase.
Please send me pics and descriptions of your cars for Zed of the Week! Send a high quality jpeg (landscape/16:9 format) and a brief description (year, engine, transmission, work done, etc.) as well as where you're from (and your name!) to:
momentofzed@gmail.com
Also the address for any other reason to contact me- look forward to hearing from you! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
The X8R is fantastic for those who live in the UK. Not saying about the bushes now but the another common fault which are the mirrors. You can’t get housing from BMW unless you buy the whole mirror. They develop the improved part that won’t fail and you can fit right in and get your wing mirror done👌🏻
Oh man, Mark. You have the funniest thumbnails on TH-cam! Usually the perfect mix of word play/dad jokes, but in this case totally over the top 😂 Please never tone down your thumbnails/intros! Great vid as always, I will do this fix to a Z3 in the family!
Thank you so much! Hey, make sure you disconnect the battery prior to disconnecting the seats. After you remove the mounting bolts, of course
Your videos are awesome and I have just done both this job, and the door gaskets based on your instruction videos. Much appreciated. One thing to note is that a common issue (and one that impacted both my seats) is that they can get jammed when extended to their full height. I needed to fix this (to fit in the car) and did the bushings while I was there.
A callout here to anyone with the same issue, it jams HARD. I had to unbolt the end of the screw mechanism, put a screwdriver through for leverage and really pull to get that thing unstuck on both sides. Basically the motor feeds into a 90 degree gear setup which is a screw that makes it go up and down. You need to wind that things back down. Assuming your motor is still fine, once unstuck, just reassemble and the motor will take over from there where back in the car.
My windows are next. Sadly no endoscope for me as we're talking a 27 year old, unmolested, 100% original car (except the tyres, disks and pads) so that old grease will have gone hard and needs to be removed from the runners. Not looking forward to that one.
Thank you for the tip and I'm glad the videos have helped! Good luck with the windows, take it slow with the door panels!
I did this repair several months ago. Nice job on the video Mark. Just one tip; when the seats are unplugged don't start the car as you will have to reset the airbag sensor. I reset mine using a cheap tool I purchased from Amazon, that worked nicely. Reportedly, having the BMW dealer reset it is expensive. Also, be careful removing the seat as mine tipped forward and knocked the mirror off the windshield, though I don't think it was held on very well anyway. Gluing the mirror back on would be another great Moment of Zed opportunity, by the way.
Thanks- yeah, the seats are heavy and awkward- I had my buddy Pat eyeball my movements to avaiod problems.
I just got a 96 z3 1.9L and I just want to say that your videos have helped me fix common issues on this car thank you and keep posting
Congrats! Good to hear! Thanks for watching!
Hes the best man
What a fantastic detailed video. I am a complete novice and managed to repair my car seat. Thank you so much.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Thanks, Mark, that really helped! I fixed both seats yesterday on my 2002 3.0; my Delrin bushing kit was absolutely perfect, no need to sand, no need to force press anything. 👍
Glad to hear it!
i was able to repair my seats thanks to your explanation without any mechanical skills! thank you very much - greetings from germany :)
Thank you so much for watching- and glad I could help!
Great description of the work required. First project after purchasing my Z was to do my drivers seat. Thank you again.
thanks John- appreciate your time as always!
Thanks Mark! Just a helpful note: Please make sure the that spindle gaps (on the top and bottom if the bushings are left and right) are equal! I didn't check that on my passenger seat and it is binding, making for a slow traversal down the worm gears. I do think that over time, the forces will center the spindles in the box, and correct this.
I checked for that and centered them for the driver's seat and it works just fine. Also note that in my install, the flexible rails separated, unlike Marks' example, so I had to connect the worm gear/rail to the flexible rail at the end. Not a big deal, just a difference. My car is a 2000 Z3 2.3, so some differences are expected.
Just did mine with the help of my son. Always good to have help for a project like this.
Good tips and glad the video helped!
I could not have repaired mine without your excellent video, thank you so much for taking the time to share it! So well done. I got the spacers from the guy out of NY for $11 with free shipping and they fit perfectly (no sanding necessary). If you are looking for ideas, how about installation of oem seat belt guides? Thanks again for all your great videos.
Joe, thank you so much for watching! Glad the video helped. I'm fortunate as my guides are perfect; however, I know they are a problem spot on many. I know they re not easy- BMW didn't do us any favors here. If you still have both sides, there is a product which kind of mates them together. It is just a sleeve that fits over both sides and makes a "loop". Link to product: www.etsy.com/listing/1042616437/bmw-z3-and-m-roadster-seat-belt-guide?gpla=1&gao=1&&Cj0KCQiAw9qOBhC-ARIsAG-rdn602g1CiGbrd437H1oZgbWKjJK6zOKhsBNqNoVitzrbRpamZWNeMHgaAgGwEALw_wcB_k_&:pla-354955384985_c__1042616437_12768591&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw9qOBhC-ARIsAG-rdn602g1CiGbrd437H1oZgbWKjJK6zOKhsBNqNoVitzrbRpamZWNeMHgaAgGwEALw_wcB
Glad you have taken care of the ejection problem B4 my next ride!!!
Best fixing explanation of this problem in the whole internet Mark! Congrats! By the way where did you pick this lovely armrest?
Thank you so much- the center console? It is stock, then a previous owner stuck a BMW rondel on it.
Well done, invaluable video. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR POSTING THIS!!!
I Just picked up a '98 2.8L and the previous owners bought the bushings but didn't feel comfy doing the job so he gave them to me. My son & followed your video on a tablet in the garage...ba-da-boom, ba-da-bing we completed the passenger seat in 1hr. Definitely a two-person job but on a scale of 1-10 (10 being advanced); I put this as a 3.
Congratulations on the purchase! Glad the video helped!
You are the best ever. I just bought a 3.0 roadster and I am so excited to do this quick fix myself thanks to you. Thanks a lot
Great! Congratulations and send photos for Zed of the Week!
I have done this job on my zed, made huge difference to quality of the driving experience. My one piece advice is do one threaded rod at a time, as been known to mix up threaded rods and electric seats work reverse of the switch.
Tony- agreed, that is how I did mine. Thanks for your time and comments-appreciate it!
Incredibly helpful video, thank you!!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Hi Mark. Thank goodness I don't have to do mine as it all seems as solid as ever. As always - brilliant videos. Keep going sir we love them!!! 🇬🇧 Just to add that before you disconnect the chair electrics, take out your key from the ignition otherwise you'll throw an airbag light on the dash. Best Craig 😀
Thanks Craig! Unfortunately, have had the airbag light on since purchase. Will buy the tool to kill it soon.
This is awesome, the first thing I've done by myself so complex, but the instructions were incredible! Thanks!
Nice job! Glad it helped!
My zetster brother, you just saved my neck
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
Nice video I follow every step. One thing I should mention is you shouldn’t be pressed in the bushing it will cause blinding. Mine move way smoother with a perfect fit than a tight fit.
Good tip! Thank you for watching!
Thank you so much for the video! It was a major pain but so worth it in the end!
Thank you! Glad I could help and thanks for watching!
Love it gave me the confidence to try this on my own.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Nice job on the video!!! A buddy of mine will be doing this repair in the near future, guess what video I'll be pointing in his direction?
I did mine a couple years ago, the hardest part of the job and most time consuming was cleaning out the old bushings. Like mentioned a flat head screw driver and some patience goes along way, what a mess.
I like your Zed of the week segment, I might have to send in a pic or two...
Thank you for spreading the word- much appreciated!
Brilliantly helpful video, really appreciate the effort.
Glad to help and thank you for watching!
I was hoping you mention the seat back adjustable cable- mine seems to have broken or disconnected. Nothing when I pull up the lever. Anyway great channel, keep it up! I’ve got a 97.
Steve- sorry I missed your comment initially- I didn't have an issue, or I would have done that too. Sorry!
FYI, you can make the bushings too tight! I had to remove my seat ~5 times to realize this, as the seat wouldn't move. The metal block needs play in the sleeve, not in the direction of the rod, but from side to side. If you're having issues during this repair, make sure your bushings aren't too tight!
Good advice! Thank you!
Any tricks to getting the square flexible shaft to fully engage? The nominal position of the shaft is not allowing it to fully seat, and I cannot get enough of a bend to in the flexible shat for it to fully seat. Have tried screw driver, pliers, to bend the flexible shaft, (while wiggling the threaded rod) through the inspection hole, but no luck so far.
Have to admit I didn't run into issues. I d take a step back look everything over. There is more than likely something simple that is making it difficult.
Having successfully done one side, i pushed the bushings in on the other, and now cannot get the kebab to screw back together at all. Magically the screw threads will no longer turn together despite doing so very shortly ago. This is turning into a major headache 😢
Maybe too tight? Undo, slow down, redo. Make sure you don't lose your measurements.
When cleaning out the block, can you use brake cleaner or wd40 to help with clean up , then add the lithium grease afterward? I am in the process of having to do this project this weekend and was wondering it that helps make the cleaning and scraping of old debris easier.
Larry
I dont see any reason you couldn't. Should help as the broken down bushing/old grease mixture is messy and sticky.
Any input of the seat back cable that does work on my 97.
Had difficulty once I had finished installing the new bushings……putting the seat back in the car and lining up the bolts to bolt it in….holes in the seat did not match the holes and bolts in the car floor.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
I guess first things first, did you measure the position of the bearing carrier on the threaded rod to reinstall in the same position?
You may have to go back and manually adjust. I assume some bolts go in others don't?
👍
what should i do if the measurement was a little off and now the seat won’t move forward and back
If the measurement is a little off, it shouldn't be anything more than not going back all the way, or not going forward all the way. If it doesn't move at all, the next thing I'd like to know is if the motor is turning, but the seat doesn't move; or is the motor not turning at all?
I did this and now the seat only goes back and forth a few inches. Both motor cables are in place and electrical connectors in correctly. Any suggestions?
Did you make sure the rods went back the same way they came out? As far as distances go front and back?
@@MomentofZed thank you for the reply. Yes the rods are in the correct way. The motor cables inserted and the T50 bolts in properly (Also the smaller bolts that go into carriage).
I'm thinking the spacers might be too tight.
Or is it possible the black nut that goes in between the spacers could have been turned around in the carriage.. don't know if that would matter.
@@2effed87 if I remember correctly I pressed mine in, so not sure. Dont think spacer position matters either. Dumb question- anything physically blocking movement?
@@MomentofZed I have the seat back out again ... The carriages are less than 2 millimeters differently spaced from each other. I'll adjust and get back with results.
@@2effed87 again, and I apologize for asking, but you marked the carrier position on the threaded rod on both sides and rethreaded the same way ?
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for watching!
@@MomentofZed Thanks for posting! Keep doing what you do, you're awesome bro!!
I just purchased a Zed3 yesterday, I'll be sending you a pic of it to be featured soon! 🤩
@@Gambit22003 Congratulations! Welcome to the club. Take a look at any video's description for the details about the car I like to have. Look forward to seeing it!
@@MomentofZed I have been watching your videos for a couple weeks now, actually. And even though it's a bit of a pain, I did see that you're now monetized and to support your channel, I will watch all ads to the end for you! Thanks for the warm welcome! And thanks for all the repair info!! It's truly priceless!! 👍❤
@@Gambit22003 appreciate your time on those ads!