I am only just catching up with the notion of building a tank as a change from WW II aircraft and this is the kit I had set my sights on. You have cemented my choice and this was neither too long and definitely not boring. Thank you sir.
I found some ultra skinny bristle wire brush hairs that work perfectly for 1/35th scale antennas and they can be heated up on the end and melted right into the model with no drilling or glue required
I always enjoy watching your work, and this one certainly didn't disappoint. The weathering definitely adds to the character of the kit and helps tell a story, which I think is the real draw to it since it allows the builder to put his or her own touch on it. One thing I'm still struggling with though is how they considered those colors "desert camo"; I get the sand/off white, its the green that throws me off since you don't tend to see much green in the desert. In any case, the paint job looks great and I very much enjoyed the video.
Thanks! There's a bit of green in North Africa, especially near the Med where they did most of the fighting. There were a lot of weird and wonderful desert camo colours used in WW2, pink being one of them.
Well, that explains it; thanks for the response! I've no doubt there are a lot of strange and interesting tidbits of knowledge throughout the histories of various wars that anyone would find surprising and which might inspire to delve a little more seriously into the historical aspects of building models; right now I tend to focus more on fantasy, sci-fi and comic book related kits/projects, but I have already dabbled a little with more historical kits (mostly ships, but also a couple of land vehicles).
To be honest I'm not sure how historically accurate this camo is, in the game it just says "used in North Africa" but doesn't go into any more detail. I just thought it looked cool. 😁
Nice model. Just a heads up, but the tube type aerial is the B set aerial, which looks about the right length. The A set aerial on the conical mount would be around 2.5 to 4 times longer than the B set one. The cone and the end of the tube mount are both black rubber, with a silver metal end where the aerial attaches. Hope that helps for the future.
I enjoyed this and your other Armor weathering/painting videos very much. What nozzle size, and air pressure did you use, and did you thin the Model Air paint or use a drying retarder? Thanks in advance for you reply.
(1) It came out great. Good show. (2) Curiously narrow threads for a tank... It is possible testimony of its not so heavy large mass, but it must have a better explanation than that. What would be the tactical advantage for having a footprint impsing more pressure on the ground than could otherwise be achieved by just using the apparently wider threads we see under other tanks? Maybe it's just a wrong impression I had watching the video...
jsfbr Good ground pressure was not on the British mind when these were produced. These missed the early war in North Africa. It took awhile for them to mount the 6 pounded but it made it to Lybia and Sicily before US Shermans replaced them. Another point in its favor was most of the time it worked which the previous marks didn't. You must remember that they didn't know much about what was required for desert use. Ground pressure wasn't considered until later but even then, there's not much change until after the war. Hope this answers your question.
Cheers! Well this is a tank from the late 1930s, also designed to be light and cheap. Not sure how it would have changed the tank if they made wider tracks like the T-34 for example.
ModelChili Scale Models Honestly, I doubt they even thought of it. I've got a reference book with the British tank development that's got pictures of each and every last one has the same track as yours. Granted, they might be size differences but they all look alike ! LOL! Even the Churchill had tracks that weren't all that wide. I got a book that you might like. It's called "Flamethrower Tank". It's by the commander of a flame thrower tank all through the war. I think you'll enjoy it
Nice build! Question: I have never used rattle cans before. Can i use them inside or do i need to do it outside? Up until now i've always used varnish in my airbrush but recently started being curious about them cans.
Hello, overall i think you did a really great job. I would offer a few suggestions however for future builds. During assembly, when placing accessories (spades/tools/spare tracks etc) and fine parts like machine guns consider using rubber cement or even white glue to temporarily cement them. So when it comes time to paint them in detail, they are easily removed, painted and then can be permanently cemented without disturbing the continuity of the final paint scheme. When doing the pre-shade consider using a highlight coat as well. That being, adding some white (or other light color) to the sun exposed surfaces and only lightly covering them with the base coat. This adds a really nice color modulation. The second is, before applying the clear coat, use a pencil to add wear lines along the desired straight edges and bolt heads. This saves the effort of using a fine brush and getting the wear lines too thick. Also, once the clear coat is sprayed the pencil will turn a more flat grey. Once dried, using the pencil again go over the most "used areas" and some bolt heads again with the pencil which will add a more recent polished wear effect in the desired areas. Also, when adding dust effects to the wheel holes, if you're not using pigments, consider using a very thinned down base color paint to highlight (dust) them and possibly the tracks if desired. Please don't take my comments as a negative, as i'm just offering some possibilities to you for future builds and besides that, as i said, you did a really great job on the kit!
Man, these promos are always for new accounts! Not people who have been there since alpha *grumps* Oh well, its still a great game, and an even better video.
Great video ! But, I've always thought this was the most just plain butt ugly camo scheme I've ever seen. You've certainly done justice to the scheme alright ! I had to watch your video because I had to know just how you were going to get the tracks on. I always put them together first. Here's how to deal with those types of tracks. Just use a pencil with a pointed tip to stretch out the holes. Then it's easy to get the pins in the holes. I've been melting the track together since the 60's when I was a teenager. Seldom have an issue but if necessary, you can use the runner for extra plastic if necessary. Try this method on your next set of "rubber band" tracks and see how it works.
Played the game, don't like it, just a dumbed down arcade game. I prefer true PC simulations, which are sadly hard to come by these days. Love the model and your video though.
I am only just catching up with the notion of building a tank as a change from WW II aircraft and this is the kit I had set my sights on. You have cemented my choice and this was neither too long and definitely not boring. Thank you sir.
Timestamps for those wanting to skip ahead!
Building: 4:07
Pre-shading: 10:39
Base coat: 10:59
Painting camouflage pattern: 12:31
Pin wash: 16:50
Applying Decals: 20:33
Chipping: 22:58
Rust effects: 27:37
Sand wash: 30:43
Scratchbuilding antennae: 35:20
Fitting tracks: 38:45
Final reveal: 41:30
Lovely, i play WOT daily and this representation of the Crusader III is perfect and lore-friendly to the game
Thank you!
You make it look so easy! Great job Sam :)
Thanks sis. :)
Very nice, Sam! I'll have to keep my eye out for one of these.
Thanks :)
I believe the Tamiya offering is just a reboxing of this kit, although admittedly without the World of Tanks branding.
I found some ultra skinny bristle wire brush hairs that work perfectly for 1/35th scale antennas and they can be heated up on the end and melted right into the model with no drilling or glue required
I always enjoy watching your work, and this one certainly didn't disappoint. The weathering definitely adds to the character of the kit and helps tell a story, which I think is the real draw to it since it allows the builder to put his or her own touch on it. One thing I'm still struggling with though is how they considered those colors "desert camo"; I get the sand/off white, its the green that throws me off since you don't tend to see much green in the desert. In any case, the paint job looks great and I very much enjoyed the video.
Thanks! There's a bit of green in North Africa, especially near the Med where they did most of the fighting. There were a lot of weird and wonderful desert camo colours used in WW2, pink being one of them.
Well, that explains it; thanks for the response! I've no doubt there are a lot of strange and interesting tidbits of knowledge throughout the histories of various wars that anyone would find surprising and which might inspire to delve a little more seriously into the historical aspects of building models; right now I tend to focus more on fantasy, sci-fi and comic book related kits/projects, but I have already dabbled a little with more historical kits (mostly ships, but also a couple of land vehicles).
To be honest I'm not sure how historically accurate this camo is, in the game it just says "used in North Africa" but doesn't go into any more detail. I just thought it looked cool. 😁
Looks good 👍
Thanks!
I'm building the very same kit but in the sand colour without the camo , very good video !
Thanks!
Seen this on your Instagram the other night. It looks great. 🖒🖒
Thanks!
WOT is addictive don't start!!!!!! Very interesting camo
I played for for a while, but once I got a ps4 I never played again! Lol
Everything in moderation :p
Nice model. Just a heads up, but the tube type aerial is the B set aerial, which looks about the right length. The A set aerial on the conical mount would be around 2.5 to 4 times longer than the B set one. The cone and the end of the tube mount are both black rubber, with a silver metal end where the aerial attaches. Hope that helps for the future.
Very Nice
Thanks!
Thanks for the info! I’ve been trying to figure out a way to make the tracks sag! Thanks!!!!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great job, mate.
Thanks :)
I enjoyed this and your other Armor weathering/painting videos very much. What nozzle size, and air pressure did you use, and did you thin the Model Air paint or use a drying retarder? Thanks in advance for you reply.
Cheers! My airbrush is locked at 30psi, and just use Vallejo Model Air paints straight out of the bottle. Not sure what the nozzle size is sorry!
(1) It came out great. Good show. (2) Curiously narrow threads for a tank... It is possible testimony of its not so heavy large mass, but it must have a better explanation than that. What would be the tactical advantage for having a footprint impsing more pressure on the ground than could otherwise be achieved by just using the apparently wider threads we see under other tanks? Maybe it's just a wrong impression I had watching the video...
jsfbr
Good ground pressure was not on the British mind when these were produced. These missed the early war in North Africa. It took awhile for them to mount the 6 pounded but it made it to Lybia and Sicily before US Shermans replaced them. Another point in its favor was most of the time it worked which the previous marks didn't. You must remember that they didn't know much about what was required for desert use. Ground pressure wasn't considered until later but even then, there's not much change until after the war. Hope this answers your question.
Cheers! Well this is a tank from the late 1930s, also designed to be light and cheap. Not sure how it would have changed the tank if they made wider tracks like the T-34 for example.
ModelChili Scale Models
Honestly, I doubt they even thought of it. I've got a reference book with the British tank development that's got pictures of each and every last one has the same track as yours. Granted, they might be size differences but they all look alike ! LOL! Even the Churchill had tracks that weren't all that wide. I got a book that you might like. It's called "Flamethrower Tank". It's by the commander of a flame thrower tank all through the war. I think you'll enjoy it
Nice build!
Question: I have never used rattle cans before. Can i use them inside or do i need to do it outside?
Up until now i've always used varnish in my airbrush but recently started being curious about them cans.
I always use them outside or where there's lots of ventilation.
@@modelchili I see. May i ask sir why you use cans instead of through your airbrush?
Sorry for asking.
I use both. I only use cans for primer and clear coats, never for painting.
Another excellent build and paint scheme Sam 🖒😉,I've got the commemorative boxing,but I think I've raided it for greeblies🤔
Thanks Tim!
The Italeri Crusader is the only kit of the crusader in 1/35 scale. Its been reboxed by other brands.
Hello, overall i think you did a really great job.
I would offer a few suggestions however for future builds.
During assembly, when placing accessories (spades/tools/spare tracks etc) and fine parts like machine guns consider using rubber cement or even white glue to temporarily cement them.
So when it comes time to paint them in detail, they are easily removed, painted and then can be permanently cemented without disturbing the continuity of the final paint scheme.
When doing the pre-shade consider using a highlight coat as well.
That being, adding some white (or other light color) to the sun exposed surfaces and only lightly covering them with the base coat.
This adds a really nice color modulation.
The second is, before applying the clear coat, use a pencil to add wear lines along the desired straight edges and bolt heads.
This saves the effort of using a fine brush and getting the wear lines too thick. Also, once the clear coat is sprayed the pencil will turn a more flat grey.
Once dried, using the pencil again go over the most "used areas" and some bolt heads again with the pencil which will add a more recent polished wear effect in the desired areas.
Also, when adding dust effects to the wheel holes, if you're not using pigments, consider using a very thinned down base color paint to highlight (dust) them and possibly the tracks if desired.
Please don't take my comments as a negative, as i'm just offering some possibilities to you for future builds and besides that, as i said, you did a really great job on the kit!
Nice!!!
Thanks!
very very very nice! I recommed the italeri kit steyr rso/01(#6549). Ciao!
Thank you!
Week spots on the pz 4? Uhhh you mean everywhere!!
I guess you could do better with some shading with the primary color and less wear on the panels. But of course to each his own.
Man, these promos are always for new accounts! Not people who have been there since alpha *grumps* Oh well, its still a great game, and an even better video.
Cheers!
Great video ! But, I've always thought this was the most just plain butt ugly camo scheme I've ever seen. You've certainly done justice to the scheme alright ! I had to watch your video because I had to know just how you were going to get the tracks on. I always put them together first.
Here's how to deal with those types of tracks. Just use a pencil with a pointed tip to stretch out the holes. Then it's easy to get the pins in the holes. I've been melting the track together since the 60's when I was a teenager. Seldom have an issue but if necessary, you can use the runner for extra plastic if necessary. Try this method on your next set of "rubber band" tracks and see how it works.
Yeah I had to put the tracks on last otherwise I wouldn't have got them on through the skirts. Thanks for the tip though!
Played the game, don't like it, just a dumbed down arcade game.
I prefer true PC simulations, which are sadly hard to come by these days.
Love the model and your video though.
Thanks!
Sure it’s not the most realistic game inside the matches, but wargaming definitely should proud of their models
Graviteam Tactics games should keep you occupied for a very long time, true realtime milsim
I'm your 200 veiw
Congrats!