1978 Firebird Weiand 144 Supercharger Prep (Ep.2 Part 1 of 2)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ธ.ค. 2017
- Now that the backstory of this car has been covered, lets cram an old-fashioned blower under that hood! Or, mostly under it. And mostly old-fasioned.
We will go over the relatively extensive plans and parts that are ready to go on this 1978 Pontiac Firebird Esprit to prepare it for installation of this Craigslist supercharger kit onto the 360ci Small Block Chevy engine.
Timeline of filming: December 13th, 2017 - December 15th, 2017
Song List (Order of First Appearance):
0:01 Stalling - Topher Mohr and Alex Elena
9:47 Well Worth the Wait - Silent Partner
16:30 Watch it Glow - Silent Partner
(All music provided by TH-cam's Audio Library royalty free.)
Thanks for watching, and joining us on this adventure! Please let us know what you think! Consider supporting us via Patreon as well! / fuzzydiceprojects - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
This episode is a bit of a change, because mistakes are made and things simply don't work the way I wanted, and you hear me voice that frustration. I think mistakes are at least as important to show as the successes, and they are definitely a part of working on cars, which I'm basically just showcasing.
Some commenters have said they really enjoy the easygoing nature of these videos, let me know if in the future such errors and purposeless work should be edited out.
I think the mistakes are as important, scratch that, more important than the successes for learning and growing. As a full time ASE mechanic for over 12 years now I like these videos, they remind me of my early days working on cars while it was still a hobby.
FuzzyDicePimp I say let's see the mistakes so we can see how you overcame or worked around them.
My dad owned a 1976 k5 blazer, he learned how to work on the car and took care of it even when it dropped its guts like the s10 XD, he regretted selling it for a new truck because it was his pride and joy, keep up the good work and keep them going.
Regardless of all that, I love this channel. 👍🏻
Mistakes are how we learn. Part of what makes it fun! Car builds are a lot of problem solving. I think that’s why it feels so good to hear it run for the first time. Keep it up man!
"I don't wanna take the engine apart 'cause you know, it works"
I feel that too hard
Love all the engine bay room on the old cars. Try reaching your hand down into the bay more than a few inches on anything new with a v6 or v8...nope...
Makes me miss my 60's and 70's cars of the past....
Love the videos!!
Never clicked a video so fast
I love your honesty to a love of cars. Why did you do this, was it because its the path to the highest performance? Not important. Is it because it's the closest to original? Not important. You did this because it's what you think is cool and what you wanted. That's what should matter. And it's firmly coupled to a technical understanding of what you're doing, and with an ability to roll with the punches and change your plans as needed. This is car culture the way I grew up with it, and it's not something I come across very frequently. Subbed.
Two vids in one day that’s amazing, thanks for making my work day a little better
2 things.
1 Your comment of "I think It should slide down. But that looks hard!". That killed me hahaha
2 I like seeing the whole process. I enjoy seeing everything you went through, good and bad, throughout your projects. Makes it a lot more personal. Some of my best memories with my grandfather amd my dad are when they'd get mad on what we were working on while they were teaching me. Made me remember not do that stuff.
Keep this stuff coming man I love them
Good for you kiddo. You’re a natural, because of your passion. I know the pleasure of Mcgiver fun. Been there countless times.
Adds a commonality to your videos I like seeing the mistakes just as much as I do the successes
the way you handled your anglegrinder at11:16 sure gave me the creeps ^^
The first time I saw the cord for the earbuds coming out the bottom of your shirt I thought, "Come on young man, you don't have to spend ALL your money on the car. Get yourself a belt and quit using twine to hold your pants up!"
This is a fun series, I'll probably stay up all night watching them so I can be caught up.
Your videos are great man, thank you for the effort you put into these. Really enjoyable viewing!
I got so tired of hearing the whine of a supercharger that I hated it lol. So what you have is gold to me.
Man I love your vids . Good night to binge watch.
Love you videos always looking forward to them
brad36ny1 - same here; me too! It's a great great car and FDP is a good guy...
Damn!You got ANOTHER smoking deal!!First,the car now the blower!Great videos!
Man, i love your presentation.
Watching the "Firebird Series" for the first time. I'm gonna bet that he changes his mind about using that carburator and ends up having to put it on. Love your content!!
great work man, great inspiration
Not even into cars like that but i binge watch these vids
You do the most incredible vids..
Wow, you caught a lot of surprises !
I would replace the radiator with a four core aluminum radiator to aid with cooling to go along with the added horsepower .
Not to mention that there could be a lot of sludge inside the old one.
Many men have lost digits to that flexolite flex fan they worked but were a ticking time bomb I ran electric from the 90s up
This is my literal dream love the pontiac firebird 1978 it's actually my favourite car
I like your style young man!
Alternator bracket from a 3rd Gen fbody would have worked. You can get a cs144 120 amp alternator from caddy Devilles with heated mirrors and they fit that bracket perfect it's a nice upgrade
love your videos
Ah ha part 2 awesome ! Forget my earlier mesg saying u should use a shaker hood . Now i see!
Damn my boi u puttn in dat work
When you hear the supercharger whiny it makes you smile like the opposite of a kid whiny
These old cars are awesome and easy to work on. My 02 dodge is a pain to fix.
Do NOT edit out the "fails" please. Having just done an engine swap, much of the advice I received from youtube, I have learned the value of seeing mistakes, miscues and mis-ordered parts. Had i seen some of these fails sooner, I would have had a far easier time. Thanks for the vids. I like the stories that go with the builds.
Supercharger all the way. 👍
AS I WATCHED YOUR VID, I admit, the car got me watching, when you mentioned your Dad, It got me!!! MY DAD WAS THE BEST! HOPE IT WORKS OUT 4 YOU!!! HAVING HAD A STROKER 406, MY ADVICE TO U IS, KEEP YOUR EYE OUT 4 A 1973 & OLDER CHEVY SB 400 W/4.125 BORE!!! THEY MAKE A BEASTLY STROKER 406 & USE OFFROAD CAMSHAFT(CIRCLE TRACK FRM SUMMIT) YOU WILL NOT BE DISSAPOINTED! SIMPLY BORING .030 OVER, YOU GET 750 HP & TOURQUE!!! NOW, ADDING A STROKER CRANK, & LIGHTWEIGHT PISTONS 11-1 COMPRESSION, ALLUMINUM HEADS,ROLLER ROCKERS, TH400 TRANS W/ NEW VALVE BODY & SHIFT KIT, 3,500 STALL, 373 GEARS, OUR'S RAN LIKE A BEAST!!! HAD A HOLLEY 750 DBL PUMPER W/MANUAL SECONDARIES! THEN, MY BRO GOT A ELDENBROCK 850 VACUUME SECONDARIES & :-( WISH U THE BEST!!!
Adding a blower, I’d lose that original radiator for a double core. More power means more heat. That old radiator is only running 70% of original capacity at best
Save all the AC stuff you can sell it or use it later don't lose it
Only had half of it to begin with, and some parts were damaged by age. Others damaged because I cut them out of the car (like this condenser.) Would be a good idea, but not happening with these parts.
im a transmission man from way back the best trans coolers are free from old refrigearator parts coils/condencers bang a free50 .00 cooler
Oh that 144 ci new vortex head swap with cam ground on the right center line you can build a really nasty little beast
Me gusta ese super cargador de un solo carburador...
Wish I lived next door, I would be over each arvo saying what are we doing today?
Gotta love those old GM side post batteries...
Kilo 11849 HA Nope
Not sure if you've done this or not, but I would strongly encourage you to keep the factory cooler in the radiator. It's a liquid-liquid cooler, which is the most efficient kind (around 80%). The air-to-liquid auxiliary cooler is only about 30% efficient at exchanging the heat.
Interesting, I was told by other commenters to get rid of the in-radiator cooler entirely and read a few things suggesting that as well. I will have to do more research on it!
Sure, that's the "Internet Engineers" at work.
Here's a similar situation - look at the higher end desktop PC's, they are all going to/have gone to liquid cooling in place of the fans blowing air across a heat sink. Same principal.
I did some research and while some setups do ditch the water cooling in favor of large, specialty radiator solutions, the one on this car is only meant to be an auxiliary cooler. I'll hook the radiator cooler back up in-line with the little cooler. Thank you for pointing this out, I'm surprised nobody else has!
Oh yesssssssss boiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
I would cut a big round hole in the hood and use a 14x4 air cleaner. That little filter in that scoop ain't doing ya no favors.
I am a video game designer and modeller and I was tasked to make an engine like what you are doing. I have absolutely no idea, 0 , of what you do but it has helped a lot to figure out the name of different parts and what they are used for. Thanks.
I have seen coupler rattle on both 71 series and others new from factory....Im still not sure how much that weakens the drive but obviously after time the back and forth rattle will affect the strength of the connection???
Awesome build you should put a 383 stroker motor would make good power with that blower.
@Fuzzy Dice Prodjects Hello, I have a '77 formula and is there a way to replace the engine oil pan gasket without taking out the engine or lifting it up? thanks alot
Damn those 10mm!
Okey, I understand the frustration with having metric and imperial screws mixed on a vehicle 😁
I get easily as annoyed when I find imperials on anything as it is kinda hard to find tools for it in Sweden (I may be searching wrong, but I'll just replace the screws if possible).
looks as though its meant for a short water pump ? the reason you had such issues with alignment??? im new to the small stuff but would explain it
Miss those old wheels it came with , looked a lot better imo
Sins they don't have a thermostat the trans line goes through the rad after the cooler to heat it up quicker in cold weather.
After the rad is up to temp the oil flowing back to the trans would be at about the perfect temperature.
I am running 9.1 using a modded L82 block pistons Oem forged steel crank big valve Oem heads .
If you want to keep the v belt alt buy a cheap relocate kit that brings the alt down on the passenger side shortens the belt alot and won't loose a belt
you understand engine fundamentals very well for your age
glad my t/a never had a/c in the first place
The transmission cooler was actually plumbed correctly. The outlet/cool side of the radiator should always be cooler than the operating temp of the transmission, so unless you have an inline thermostat for the transmission cooler you should plumb into the aux cooler first and then into the factory cooler in the radiator end tank. That warms up the ATF faster (getting rid of some of the condensation you get when it's cold) but also keeps it at a reasonable temperature for transmission fluid longevity. If you plumb it the other way you'll end up with water contamination from condesation (you'll see weird things like rust on the dipstick) you'll get sympoms of worn out fluid faster and in some cases it may stay too cool and shift funny.
Interesting! I read in many places that it should be plumbed in after the radiator. Will have to look into this further!
there's lots of horribly incorrect info on the 'net. Short version, you want it to heat up as quickly as possible and then stay in a proper operating range. The coolant in a car heats up faster than all the lubricants and unless you have an overheating problem the cool side of the radiator should always be cool enough. That is the reason why the factory coolers are done that way, and if there is a a factory aux cooler then it either is plumbed the way I suggest or has a thermostat of sorts.
Please stop using your torque wrench as a breaker bar. It throws off its torque calibration and ruins it which can ruin something else that is torque sensitive later on.
The one I use (with the orange tape) is old and quite out of calibration, I use it as a long-handled 1/2" ratchet. The tape is to make sure nobody mistakes it for an accurate tool and tries to use it as one. You are completely right if you want to keep a torque wrench accurate, though!
I use mine as a breaker bar sometimes..... Oops
@@alexlivingston1646 you'll probably want to get it recalibrated in that case
@@Antiganos yeah it's an old one though its completely off. Bought it at a garage sale lol
10mm, thx GM :- ))
Would this work with a 5.7l vortec in a 98 pickup?
Dude the stock bottom end is good for around 600 crank if not more
You’re more like to have to worry about the rings butting together than you will have to worry about it failing because of too much power
10mm on my Z28... Bane of my existence.
great series! thr fist thing id do is convert it to manual lol;)
fyi when filing metal. you should only use forward strokes. drawing a file backwards can dull the teeth quickly.
Fair enough, but what I do is basically drag the file on the backward stroke without much/any pressure and only really push on the forward. Unless it is a really important edge or a hardened metal, I find it really just isn't worth the time and a nice file will stand up to it just fine. Of course, shop teachers everywhere would hit you across the knuckles with a ruler for not lifting though.
Are you planning to change the differential gears?
Probably, those were my plans in the past, but I'll see what sort of street manners it has with the supercharger on it first. Absolute lowest gears I'd run would be 3.43, and probably not even that low. It really doesn't need them that low and I like the highway manners of high gears with the three-speed.
308s and higher will give it a good gear to push into and keep the horse power at a non lethal level.
if the gap on the rings is stock the lower gear rpms will take the top of the pistons off
so dont ever put it in low gear and stand on it or its done
try to keep it under 5000 RPM.
But you will catch the blower rush bug.
so start looking for a 4 bolt block to build from the ground up .
the valves floating at 4000 rpm might act as a rev limiter but if it has 400 pound valve springs
it will go way farther.
a blower does everything a cam and heads do below 6 grand .
then for full race applications B&M Suggested 480 to 510 crane blower cam.
For over 6000 rpm stick with 5 psi wheel
Hey man I love ur videos ur s10 and ur car what would u want for the intake off this project
Sorry, will be hanging on to that intake since it will likely be used again in the future!
Running E85 would help a save the motor and make slightly more power
Add a pete Jackson loud gear drive and you'll have all the noise you want under the hood
How much hp does it have now?
Good fuel and timing or swap over to e85 if you have e85 availability I would definitely head that direction get rid of that edelbroc you don't need a choke you will in the future start to understand what you do and don't want to do ps I lived in the south for 20 and in New england for 20 it is what you want it to be
Is the nose-cone pulley removable? If you install a larger pulley on the nose-cone, or a smaller pulley on the engine, it'll decrease the boost, and the chances of melting a piston while you get the tuning dialled in... Our Grand Prix club used to screw around with various nose-cone pulley sizes to get more grunt from the 3.8.S/C in the GTPs.
Yep, they are removable, and if it pings that is my next move. Only thing is the top pulleys are $150 each and the lowers over $300, so it's not a cheap swap. These Weiand parts are insanely overpriced, the intake manifold is almost $700.
what was the hood scoop that you used i wanna put one on my power wagon
It's a Mr. Gasket 6658 Street Scoop
Power to make power nice low sound so u can kind of hide it
Install a camshaft to bleed off some of the compression you have a blower now you have the bottom end to sacrifice
they chirp till the blades break in then a small whine
So the polished version of the intake makes a huge difference on the intake. when they polish the intake it can remove allot of the strength on the bolt bosses. never order a polished intake as it compromises the intake strength
Having a larger bore decreases compression, everything else being the same. It in essence makes the whole volume of the cylinder bigger. It's not worth much, .030 might only knock off not even .25 of a point, but it's something to consider.
Actually, my understanding is that it does the opposite. A bored cylinder is larger in volume, like you said, but the difference in the combustion chamber size on a bored cylinder is insignificant compared to the increased total volume of the cylinder. So there is a greater volume of air/fuel being compressed into a similarly sized space, which makes the compression ratio rise when an engine is bored.
I know you're deleting the AC, a guy might consider flushing that condenser and using it as a trans cooler.. Hey...they're quite efficient and more inportantly (in your case)...free!
I appreciate your production quality. I've seen chanels twice your size with far worse content. The only thing I might suggest you revise is the thumbnail and name coice because it might attract more views, but that may not be what you want. Keep it up!
By name choice, do you mean username? Because I agree, been thinking about changing it (at least the "pimp" part) for a long time. What would you like to see in thumbnails to catch eyes? I have no marketing skill or insight haha.
you need heads to get that motor breathing better you could use a set of vortec heads off of a later model truck for pretty cheap. if you research it you could make decent power fairly cheap
The 75cc early 70's heads on there are pretty good for this setup actually. Plus, the intake manifold is not compatible with Vortec heads, it would need some modification and crossed fingers. Probably could make a little power with better flowing heads but with a mild supercharger it doesn't matter quite as much.
That blower in throwing on a vortec
Its a Firechicken on NOS! lol
14:21 skillz
How does 60 over make higher compression.?
Boring out an engine block increases the volume of each cylinder, that is pretty straightforward. A compression ratio (we'll talk static compression for this example) is the volume above the piston when it is at the bottom of its travel vs the volume above it when it is at the top of its travel. Boring the cylinder will increase the volume of the cylinder as a whole a fair amount, but it has a much less significant change in the compressed volume. Therefore, both the compressed and non-compressed numbers will change a little, but the non-compressed volume will increase much more and therefore increases the compression ratio.
That look like pulleys from my 454 1977 chevy
Can somebody tell me where he found a 10mm socket, lol
Why isn't there a Pontiac 350 in there? Who decided to put a small block Chevy in it?
GM did! They stopped using the Pontiac 350 (at least in Firebirds) years before these were made. In 1978 they came with the Chevy 305 and 350 as factory options. In fact, I think the only other options in '78 were the Buick 231 V6, Pontiac 400, or Olds 403.
FuzzyDicePimp hmm interesting, I was always under the impression Pontiac was Pontiac up until 81 with an exception of the 305. Didn't know they quit using the poncho 350s
Why you take off the kragers
10mm bolts ftw
So what kinda gains are you expecting ?
No idea, honestly. Don't even how what kind of horsepower it makes now, tough to judge with the 2.42 gears. Holley says "25-40% gain over stock" so if it's 300hp now, hopefully closer to 400.
FuzzyDicePimp I agree with that assessment nice work bro
I think you misspoke. the vacuum advance will want ported vacuum from the carburetor. above the blower not below and the fuel regulator will want a boost ref sig from below the blower for fuel demands. my 2 cents
I read a fair bit about it, I have seem plenty of suggestions (and personal experience accounts) of vacuum advance hooked up above and hooked up below. It makes more sense to me to have it below, but really I need to do more research and that's why I'm leaving it unhooked for now.
its where the carb bolts on but not fore distributor on the eldor brock left side is timed vac right is for performance
You dont need vac advance its for economy I actualy couldnt tell a difference hooked up or not.
you should pick up instructions from holley
Ah, so you going for a “mad max” type style
*cuts even bigger hole into hood to hear supercharger better*
suppercarger and a turbocharger combined
*puts Lamborghini V12 in the car*
Do you seriously have zip ties holding your shoes together?? HAHA
This is a awesome video and my dream car but the backround music kind of takes away from the focus and gets kind of annoying. Just my honest thoughts. Cant wait to see it run
It maybe ended up a bit loud during the talking parts, but it is necessary to fill the empty space when work is being done. Will try to work on that leveling for the future.
you know on 3 pounds of boost these smaller blowers will actually help mpg
You're not wrong! I have actually matched about the best MPG I got without it even though it has that big Holley on top almost untuned. Because of the compression ratio of the engine I'm pretty much stuck with premium though so that more than makes up for the difference
@@FuzzyDiceProjects it sucks you dont get any cost reductions, but hey at lease you look sick ass hell and it sounds gnarly
still in maryland
I find it odd that GM would mix metric and imperial, in the UK companies usually just stick to one or the other. I've never been mid project and found an imperial nut or bolt unless someone has jammed one in
GM is all metric now, but somewhere around the late 1970's they started to change from imperial to metric. I have only found a few metric bolts on the Firebird but they are around. The 88 Blazer is lousy about it though, the engine blocks/cylinder heads were still all imperial hardware, but pretty much everything else was metric. Silly.
I work on Caterpillar equipment and they are all over the place. Most panels and new parts of the machine are metric and there engines and drive lines that haven’t changed much in years are still all imperial