DON'T Buy a Mechanical Keyboard Before Watching THIS!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I wanted to talk about mechanical keyboard terms to help you buy the best keyboard for your needs. Let's discuss some definitions, explanations, and examples of commonly used mechanical keyboard terminology you'll hear about and look at how each one relates to keyboards.
Buy the mechanical keyboards in this video at the links below:
ModeSixty Five - modedesigns.com/HWC
Ducky ONE 3 SF - bit.ly/DUCKY3
Odin Gaming NOVA65 - bit.ly/ODINKeeB
Wooting Two HE Lekker - bit.ly/wooting2
Razer Huntsman TE V2 - geni.us/HUNTMINIGEN2
Razer Blackwidow V3 Mini - geni.us/BWV3Mini
ROG Claymore II - geni.us/CLAYMORERED
Corsair K70 RGB TKL - geni.us/K70LPRAPID
ROG Falchion Wireless - geni.us/ROGFALCHION
TIMESTAMPS
0:00 - Keyboard Terminology Explained
0:47 - Hot Swap
1:10 - "Fast Gaming Switches"
1:34 - Basic Switch Specs
2:30 - Key Roll Over (Anti-Ghosting)
3:04 - Stabs
3:31 - Polling Rate
3:45 - Optical vs Mechanical
4:06 - Debounce Delay
4:28 - Bottom Out
4:50 - Switch Stem
5:17 - North vs South Facing
5:42 - Common Negative Terms
7:11 - Lubing
7:42 - Common Positive Terms
8:28 - Keycap u-size
9:11 - PBT vs ABS
10:29 - Pudding / Phantom / Side Printed
GET MERCH ►hwcstore.com
SUBSCRIBE ►bit.ly/SubHWC
This video is sponsored by Corsair. As per Hardware Canucks guidelines, no review direction was received from manufacturer. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
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#mechanicalkeyboards #keyboardterms #hardwarecanucks - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
This is probably one of the best beginner explanation videos for an introduction to the keyboard community that I’ve seen. Great job!
Awesome to hear :) Happy to help!
-D.
Exactly - all things answered that I was too afraid to ask for fear of offending KB aficionados.
Beginner 😥 lol. Was too much info never thought there was so many things to understand in a keyboard
@@HardwareCanucks 🤣🤦♂️ I knew I should have watched this before jumping to your Corsair k100 video🤣 well at least now I know what key polling means great review of the k100 by the way keep it coming 😁
is it? the biggest thing about mechanical keyboard, that is the types of switches, was not mentioned
One thing to point out.
ABS does not necessarily mean it's cheap plastic, it's simply cheaper general because it's easier to work with when doing double shots.
High quality ABS keycaps exist and are basically the "standard" for high end stuff.
@@KevinOQuinn And not only them but other manufacturers also make pretty darn good ABS, JTK is up there in quality, Domikey is catching up quickly in quality as well and SP makes some VERY good ABS (although a bit thin, but still high quality)
Meanwhile if we're paying attention to legend quality as well as keycap quality, there really are only like 3 good PBT keycap manufacturers.
Yeah, that’s my one gripe about the video- the broad categorization of ABS as cheap and therefore PBT as premium. There’s plusses and minuses to either, but I would have liked at least a passing mention on things like legibility of legends or sublegends as a talking point. Given the focus of the channel it’s not surprising, but I do think this is the one area I think it’s a major mischaracterization of the keyboard space.
I'm sorry, ABS is cheap plain and simple. Cheaper to make, cheaper to source, and cheaper to manufacture in mass.
@@KevinOQuinn Cheap being inferior wasn't the point I was trying to make. Cheap as in cost was what I was trying to get across.
@@bwloawesome Cheaper does not mean lower quality.
Thanks for putting this video together! I've always wondered what some of this stuff meant/how it translated into what I should/shouldn't be looking for.
Just a small detail: The polling rate is actually how often the computer asks the keyboards which keys are being pressed, the keyboard doesn't send data whenever it wants, the computer has to ask.
Which is why it's called a "poll" lol because it polls the board
good to know, thank you for this 👍
Correct the cpu has to wait for a interrupt handler request so it can switch to input I/O part so it can actually fetch and store input from device.
Hey there, I recently came across the HOTO Compressed Air Capsule, and I have to say, it seems like a reliable and convenient tool for maintaining a clean and organized desktop setup. With its powerful vacuuming and blowing capabilities, it can effectively remove dust and debris from keyboards and tight spaces. Plus, the additional features like the efficient storage and versatile accessories make it a great choice for both indoor and outdoor use. Definitely worth considering for optimizing your desktop environment!
Recently watched your mouse video, clear, concise, no over the top banter about bias. Informative, and entertaining, these videos keep the consumers of these products happy about the choices they can or have made. Well done, deserved sub.
As a keyboard beginner, this is the video I've been waiting for. Thank you. 👍🙂
2:06 Damn, I did not expect that, well done 😆
FANTASTIC video, now I know even more about mechanical keyboards. You pointed out a problem I started to experience which was multiple key presses being registered on my old keyboard. Weird part is that happened over time, it did not do that for 3+ years but then it seemed like the debounce delay feature started failing. I even replaced the switches and it still did it.
3:00 If I recall correctly 6KRO is often used instead of "actual" NKRO because of legacy USB compatibility reasons. As far as I know the official USB HID spec supports (or used to support) only up to 6 keys plus modifiers keys, rendering NKRO boards inoperable in cases where the host machine doesn't support it. This is also why QMK has a toggle switch between 6KR0 and NKRO.
Ahhh wow... thanks for the clarification! So does that mean the latest Logitech keyboard with 6KRO is actually NKRO and not only 6-key anti-ghosting?
-D.
@@HardwareCanucks I'm a little bit out of my depth, but internally probably yes, and the 6KRO is just caused by the board's firmware. I wager they just don't want to risk breaking compatibility by sending more data than what the USB HID spec defines. To my knowledge especially BIOSes can be quite finicky about the matter. Though to be honest, I would not be particularly surprised if many boards marketed as NKRO are actually just 6KRO.
Anti-ghosting on the other hand just (usually) means that the board has a dedicated diode for every switch so that the keyboard matrix can be scanned properly without signals being crossed. Really it's just a sign that the board isn't cutting every corner imaginable. If a board has 6KRO/NKRO I'd be more than willing to bet that it has full anti-ghosting.
As a G413 owner, you have my thanks. ;-)
Some keyboard will simulate 2 USB HID keyboard in Windows, you will have more than 6KRO
Thank you Dmitri! We have needed this EXACT video for sooo long now. Love the content my friend
Lubing a full keyboard is between 3-4 hours. Also Dimitri, very well done...not even the top keyboard youtubers ever made such a detailed glossary of terms, so good on you.
Hey {{3}}, thanks for your comment! I completely agree with your sentiment. Taking the time to lube a full keyboard can be quite time-consuming. If you're looking for efficient cleaning solutions, have you considered the HOTO Compressed Air Capsule? It offers powerful vacuuming and blowing capabilities, making it a handy tool to maintain a spotless environment on your desk and beyond. Plus, it's compact and reasonably priced compared to other brands. Cheers!
Bro these guy's quality for their videography is insane. Their video always look so crisp
The quality of the keycaps depends much more on the quality of the manufacturer than the material used. In fact in the keyboard enthusiast community doubleshot ABS keycaps from GMK & OG Cherry sets are considered the best of the best.
Keychron claimed their sets were pbt but sucked regardless of the material according to what i've heard. When i bought my Q1 i just got a completely different set of keycaps and switches.
I actually use my keycaps, and seeing 2 sets of "W, A, S, D and Spacebar" develop permanent shine in less than six months made me ditch GMK completely. My wife says I'm so clean it annoys her sometimes and I dont sweat profusely, so PBT or any reasonably priced ABS it is.
No, they aren't. GMK is great quality ABS, but the reason they don't do PBT is about manufacturing losses vs volume. PBT is notoriously hard to work with, and wasteful.
PBT is objectively a better material.
@@GtsAntoni1 Wasn't arguing which material was better. Just was stating GMK & OG Cherry doubleshot ABS is the highest quality sets available right now. You could definitely put OG Cherry dyesub PBT up there too, but good luck finding a set if them nowadays.
@@robr640 I disagree I'm afraid.
GMK make good quality ABS keys, but they trade on name and variety. There are absolutely better keys out there, especially those made from PBT.
Personally I've *really* struggled to find an ABS set that sound as good either, PBT just sounds better to me, especially double shot; then again that's another thing that's very hard to find these days.
That's the beauty of this hobby though I guess; it's all subjective.
Not only I learnt how to search for the quailities I like in a keyboard but also how to talk to the community and ask for advice.
Thank you so much
iirc, "Thock" is used to describe if the keyboard/switch has a deep sound signature. And the opposite of this is "Clack" if they have a higher pitched sound.
At this point, I kinda hate that word nowadays as some people don't even know what "thock" sounds like anymore. It'd be better if it's described as having a deeper or higher pitched sound.
Great video though! Covered most of the basics from this hobby. Love that you're getting into the keyboard hobby!
Wish more videos were as informative and concise as this one is. thank you so much!
so f*cking informative ,I tried to learn these terms by reading articles but couldn't wrap my head around them fully, your way of speech and the pics and videos inside this helped alot
thanks for connecting the custom keyboard community and gaming keyboard community with this. Would've been better if you could have given examples between keyboards custom/prebuilt using the terms you just discussed as both have their pros and cons
.
Thanks for the vid. Your content is always super informative. Great work.
Actually a legit good explanation. Felt like I learned something. Good job!
I would also add layout options: 60% 65% 75% TKL etc.
Before this video I honestly did not know all the knowledge I had accumulated over the years of watching others talk about keyboard. Definitely a passion of mine and a really really good video for someone that has no idea about any of this. It is a pricey hobby but very nice
Really great video! Thanks for taking the time to put it together :)
Simply the best video on mechanical keyboards I have seen! Nice job guys. I can definitely purchase my first mech keyboard with more confidence
Wow. I have learned a lot. Thanks for the video. 👍
This was such a good video for relatively newbie’s like myself. Appreciate the schooling!!
I spent MONTHS looking into all of these terms last year in the process of learning to build my own.
WHY U ONLY MAKE NOW?!?!?!!
This is a -great- video to make and will no doubt help a lot of beginners on a -very- lengthy road. Goodjob
Thanks for this tutorial. Learned a lot from it.
Packed full of essential info thx mate
Thank you for the information, it helped me to know what to buy or not.
Looking forward to phantoms. :) I've been trying to find shinethroughs look like phantoms for a while but getting more variety would definitely be great!
Yo this is super helpful. Thank you so much man!
I finally found the video i was looking for. Thanks a ton!
Good stuff.
Seeing this video makes me happy to see I did everything right (for my own sake) with the Keycron K3.
Fantastic tutorial, thank you 😊
Awesome video thanks!
Thanks for putting this all together.
Great seeing AK being in the big city!
Great video. Thanks
What a nice summary!
I needed this when I started out with keyboards!!
Appreciate this kind of Work, it helps alot Keep it up please 🌹👍❤️
Thank you so much for this!
Brilliant video that I will no doubt reference in the future.
Damn, another one gone down the rabbit hole and one of my favorite tech youtuber as well
Thanks man. Just What I needed. I wish I've seen this before buying my cheap keyboard
your video saved my first keyboard build the part about optical switches made me check and i found out i ordered optical switches instead of mechanical. that would have been a very bad surprise after waiting 3 weeks for shipping
Man, I really needed this Bad Seed tutorial! 😜👌🏼
Don't forget about the Hall Effect switches in boards like the Apex Pro and Wooting 60 HE and Wooting Two HE. Highly customizable analog switches!
Everything i need to know about the keyboard world! thanks
That's amazing explanation
Thanks for this sir!
Amazing video! How about a video explaining the custom mechanical keyboard scene? GMK, QMK, plates, PCBs they all get very confusing!
I'm not sure if you, yourself, need clarification on those terms you mentioned but in case someone sees your comment and does need help: GMK is just a keycap manufacturer, and probably the most popular in the custom keyboard scene. There are others like ePBT and Signature Plastics.
QMK is just a software program used to flash a keyboard or configure layouts. VIA is another popular one.
Plates are metal plates with cutouts for switches and stabilizers to mount onto. They go between the PCB and switches, and can modify the feel and sound of a keyboard, depending on material used. Materials can be plastic, like polycarbonate or acrylic or metals, like brass or aluminum.
PCBs are, well, the "motherboard" of a keyboard (?). That's what you mount your switches, and usually stabilizers, to actually register key presses.
Taeha Types has a great video on the anatomy of a custom keyboard.
Excellent video👍 quick question I'm liking frameless looking keyboards because they look less like a big brick. I like compact size keyboards but with most of the keys for writing vs gaming. What do you recommend? Thank you
Well done covering most of the basics, it's also useful to mention the different keycap side profiles like OEM, Cherry, ASA, Xda, etc that can affect compatibility with some switches. For the stabiliser it's also good to mention the securing method: plate mounted(common) vs screw in(better) stabs. Speaking of the plate there can be many materials: steel, aluminium, brass, FR4, carbon fiber , policarbonate, etc, affecting sound typing feeling. More for the custom side of keebs a bonus mention is the case material like plastic or aluminium and finish options like paint, anodising (some say anno for short), ceracoating, etc. Oh and the GB or group buys that are basically limited in number group preorders with a small window to secure an unit and after that a very very very long wait for them to actually manufacture the things, compile the set and eventually ship it.
Hey {{3}}! Great points you brought up in your comment! The different keycap side profiles, stabilizer securing methods, plate materials, and case options are all crucial factors to consider when choosing a mechanical keyboard. Additionally, group buys can be an exciting way to get unique custom keyboards. Thanks for mentioning these important details! By the way, have you ever tried using the HOTO Compressed Air Capsule for cleaning your keyboard and desktop setup? It's a versatile tool that can definitely enhance your maintenance routine!
Nice introductory poem 👍
Overall, you covered a lot of great terms for beginners and explained them well.
As others have already said, the material of the keycap has nothing to do with the quality of the keycap. There are low-quality ABS and low-quality PBT, and there are high-quality ABS and high-quality PBT. Quality comes from the manufacturing process. The main criticism with ABS is that it will shine, which people view as low-quality, but there are ABS keycaps from the dawn of the keyboard as we know it that still look amazing. From my experience, price = quality for any type of keycap up to the $100 mark. Everything after that will be about the same quality, but you’re paying for extras, unique colors, etc.
You explained the double-shot process well. Dye-sub is also a very cool process which can only be done to PBT, since it is more temperature resistant. The legends are made by using a special dye that when placed on the keycap and baked, the dye vaporizes and is absorbed by the plastic, sort of infusing and penetrating the plastic. This is why dye-sub is so much more durable than pad-printed, UV printed, or laser etched keycaps. There is no realistic durability difference between dye-sub and double-shot. ABS cannot be dye-sublimated because it cannot withstand the higher temperatures involved.
ABS vs PBT is the greatest debate I’m the community, and will probably always be.
Wow nice video, thank you for putting so much effort in researching this! You can already tell by the keycaps comment, ABS does not mean cheap. Some manufacture has gotten really good at producing really high quality, color accurate, thick ABS keycaps with minimal warping (Germany's GMK for example). While PBT can be a better plastic material, the manufacturing process for it still need to catch up.
Right now, the problems with PBT are:
1. warping and shrinking (More common in doubleshot PBT),
2. color vibrancy (colors on PBT are not saturated in comparison to ABS for this reason),
3. fuzzy legends (To avoid reason 1, manufacture uses Dyesub which can cause major fuzziness).
Once PBT manufacturing process catch up, I'd be glad to switch to PBT.
You might want to keep an eye out for Milkyway. They are going to become the standard for Dye-Sub PBT. Plus they are even going to unveil a new manufacturing process for dyesub later this year.
A couple things:
- Switch weights are generally rated on their bottom-out weights, not their actuation weights which often aren't even listed. The ranges given in the video seem to correspond to bottom out weight as well, as a 75g actuation weight would be an insanely heavy switch that I don’t think you can even buy in any mainstream setting.
- Box switches are designed that way to keep dust out of the switch when it is pressed; any wobble advantages are secondary (and the least wobbly switches out right now, like gazzew bobas, aren’t even box switches).
- This is a nitpick, but the sound example of “thock” was what most people would probably have called “pop”. This is super pedantic but I’m being honest.
- PBT vs ABS keycaps is waaaay more complicated than durable vs cheap and colorful. Even without going into the fact that most PBT “double shot” keycaps are either using PBT molded over a polycarb base (different from doubleshot injection), or are entirely made up of a PBT-ABS blend plastic (which is really more like ABS in properties), it should be noted that generally the high-end most expensive “enthusiast” keycaps are all ABS.
On switch weight, I have seen most tactile switches rated on their actuation or tactile weight, not bottom out. For example, the Halo Ture switches I have are "60g" switches, but if you look at the force profile, after the actuation, they ramp up to 100g at bottom out. When typing on these, you don't bottom out, you just go through the tactile activation, and let the ramped resistance of the rest of the travel resist you bottoming out. They're cool for typing, because your fingers "float" in the middle of the travel when typing quickly. The problem with these switches is when you hold them down for WASD gaming, your fingers get tired and sore.
The same is true of Zeal tactile switches, which come in various tactile weights, but they don't have a heavy spring, so you bottom them out, as the tactile point is the highest force part of the travel.
I believe linears are all rated on their bottom out force, because unlike tactiles, there is no increased force between the top of the travel and the bottom.
Hey, I recently came across the HOTO Compressed Air Capsule and it seems like a great tool to optimize your desktop setup. It offers powerful vacuuming and blowing capabilities, perfect for keeping your desk spotless and keyboard clean. Plus, it's portable and versatile for other uses. Definitely worth considering! 🖥💨
In the last year I've been following a number of... keyboard influencers (?)... On TH-cam, and this is by far my favorite primer. Kudos to you sir.
Love the vid! Just fell down this rabbit hole, still dont know how to answer for "why do you need 5 keyboards?" lol
Succinct. Informative. Thanks!
@Hardware Canucks This is a wonderful video. Thank you. The part I struggle with the most is where to buy keycaps and switches. Like you, I'm in Canada, and I've only found a couple of places here that have limited stock and are very expensive. Could you please recommend any good Canadian stores for keycaps and switches. A place you trust. If not, then U.S. ones. I see some amazing stuff on TH-cam, but whenever I go to websites, I'm not impressed at all. Where are people getting all these amazing keycaps? Thank you in advance for your help.
Thanks. I'm about 2 million videos in and still had no idea what was going on until now.
I found the Savior of Keyboard guide!! God knowledge is well and fairly shared here!! Thank you!!
nice video i think the next one after should be about the types of switches and the different brands there are as just getting a mechanical keyboard with say gatreon red switches or cherry mx blue switches to kalih brown switches are going to get confusing and may even feel like a bad keyboard experience due to the type of switch not fitting in with the type of keyboard typing/gaming habits each person has. like someone recommended cherry mx reds for me but it turned into a nightmare as i needed the tactile bump feel response due to the types of games i prefer playing.
There is also a fine difference between what the manufacturer (or insider) consider premium versus consumer, like the comment about ABS vs PBT, as an ex mechanical engineer, I consider stuff like burr or the presence of imperfection at gates resulting from injection molding process on a keycap, those are true representation of hoe stringent the factories are at controlling their quality
damn i wish this vid existed when i started out, great vid bro
I needed a minute to myself after that smooth af segue
Thocc isn't a good thing per se. It was a way of describing Topre's unique capacitive switch sound, but in MX switches it's simply the switch bottoming out.
Bottoming out used to be considered a bad thing, but it's all the rage now for linear lovers who necessarily lube the switch for smoothness, which also softens the bottoming out sound.
Typists generally prefer sharply tactile and clicky switches as they give feedback (called an event) when the switch is activated, letting them avoid bottoming out.
those phantom keycaps look really nice and clean!
I just bought my first Ducky last month and got the Cherry Silent switches. It's just sooo good; now I need another one! And the SF definitely takes some getting used to.
What is your opinion on the silents, do they feel mushy, do they have a nice damped sound, etc.?
@@Daniel-dj7fh They're super tactile and satisfying like you'd expect from mechanical, but the keys are pretty silent! There's none of the clicky from a mechanical, but you can hear key travel and bottoming out.
I had normal Cherry MXes and my roommate would complain when we games together, even he was like "damn that's quiet."
@@isturma Which switch do you specifically have, because I don't think I remember Cherry having tactile silent switches 🤔🤔🤔
best keyboard analysis video ❤️
Thanks
Great video
keycap profile: the shape of the keycaps, and the overall shape of the keys across the keyboard. individual keycaps can have tops with flat, cylindrical, or spherical cup\s (etc.). the tops can also be square, rounded square, or tombstone shaped (etc.). the skirts of the caps can also be in several different shapes. some keycap sets can be different heights based on what row they are in.
switch profiles: You'll mostly run into (what's now called) full size, or low-profile when dealing with MX style switches. there's also taller (up to about 5× the height of modern full size switches, these are ancient in technology terms) and shorter (as low as ¼ the height of full-size) switches out there. And then there's membrane switches.
Springs could cause some scratch I guess but the switch leafs, the switch housing, and switch stem would be more likely to cause a scratchy sound and feel.
Can you talk about hall sensor switches at some point as well?
I love the quality of the keyboard... love it
The audio was incredible
one thing to point out.
tactile or clicky actuation postion only apply to tactile and clicky switches respectively.
BRO. THIS. Nicely done on this video and topic! Well job! That THOCK THOUGH, ah!!!!
SCAM. Reported.
I'm thinking about readjusting and relubing my gmk stabs because I have an f* ton of rattle. Should I put the effort here or just get my hands on some c³ equalz, durok or kbdfans stabs?
Thanks!
Thanks for all that keyboard love.
10:17 me, looking at prices of GMK ABS double shot sets vs most other pbt keycap sets: wait a minute
I remember buying my first mechanical keyboard 7 years back, went with a pretty value board. $135 brushed aluminum face plate, and all metal body. Absolutely loved it, I still to this day love it, just wanted something a little different after so many years.
I downgraded from a full size to 65% and I was very on the fence about it, but to my genuine surprise beyond the volume wheel I've not really noticed much beyond a lot more room on my desk mat. I originally opted for a cheap $30 65% (didn't want to spend a lot and find out I hated it) and it worked, after 2 months I bought a Drop Alt LP for $100 new in the box, I loved it as well.
I guess my point is, don't discount hotswap, some switches are a lot cheaper than replacing a full keyboard. It saves money in the long run, and you get the option to use less traditional switches (like Holy Pandas) which can be borderline impossible to find on a prebuilt keyboard.
I'm curious why there's no auto caption when Eber hosts the video more often than when Dimitri hosts it. When Dimitri hosts the video, the auto caption is almost always enabled.
there's two kind of hotswap, outemu one and general ones. the outemu ones most of the time exist on cheap hotswap keyboard. You could use non outemu switches but the pins to be sanded thin in order to install in the outemu hotswap board. the general ones accept anything tho.
Getting my first 60% keyboard with hot swap soon can not wait already got some custom keys for it 😂❤
Excellent explanation of all these confusing terminologies. Personally I don't care about 90% of these "issues" and think that the keyboard space has really taken it too far. I have to do actual research before I buy a new keyboard nowadays...
Super weird question but what glasses are those? really struggling to find a pair i like 😅
The "Thock" sound really has changed from what it really meant a while ago huh, it used to only be used on electro capacitive keyboards like Topre or Niz, certain switches do have that deep "Thock" sound like the Gat inks or Gazzew Bobas but definitely not the example that was given (its more like poppy)
"Cripsy" is only used on clicky switches that uses a click bar instead of the traditional click jacket like cherry blues, almost every click bar switch is manufactured by Kailh (ie: box jade, navy, pink, sherbet)
It hasn't changed, people in the hobby still refer thock to a deeper, more "warm" sound. The definition in the video wasn't accurate, nor was the example sound.
wow what an informative video
Can you teach us how to make a dactyl manuform with palm rest?
I think I might just try a used linear board. The thing is, I don’t really know what I prefer. I thought about browns because I’m not a gamer, but then reds seem to be what most people who build these keyboards prefer, at times even for programming and writing, and I think these switches lend themselves best to a satisfyingly smooth thock (or am I wrong about this? - please let me know!)
Linear gang here. Linears are best if you want fast, easy, and smooth actuation. They're the simplest switch. You push it, it works. Smooth unhindered travel all the way to the bottom out. They sound good as well.
If you want to feel something more than just smooth travel, that's what tactiles do. One step up in complexity and feedback from linears. The little lump on the stem allows your fingers to feel the exact point of actuation. These also sound good.
Lastly, if you want even more complexity........ You have clickys. In addition to the stem bump that gives tactiles their physical feedback, it produces a loud clicking noise at the same moment you feel the bump. Personal advice... stay away. They'll make your ears bleed. The only clicky keyboard I'll accept is the IBM Model M, and that's only because the click is a side effect of the highly praised buckling spring instead of a useless add on.
please let me know if the Xtrfy K4 (small enter model) got any non-standart keys ? or i can replace them all without any problems ?
I recently bought Akko Jelly Black switches and oh boy, they are SMOOTH!
They are also fast and firm on the stem and housing, very stable.
I just wish the bottom out force were greater.
IF you have the time you can always mod your switches and do whats called a "spring swap" to swap your lighter springs for heavier ones. there are plenty of sites that offer springs. keep in mind you will probably need a switch opener for easier use to open the switch
You can also just try to type lighter
@@Daniel-dj7fh
Can't. It's muscle memory.
@@williamtael8379 nana it's possible. Everytime you think about how light your switches are you just have to be abit more gentle
5:15 The Truly Ergonomic CLEAVE Keyboard 'Optoelectrical Infrared Mechanical Switch' was here ;)
7:05 *Turns up volume to hear the pi-...* *_LUBING!_*
Custom mechanical keyboard is a big big rabbit hole. From custom once of keycaps to switches and boards. I'm like $2000 AUD deep. Haven't bought a mech keyboard since early 2021