Both Stainless steel and Ceramic ball bearings are a marketing ploy to get you to buy a product that YOU DON'T NEED! I have been an industrial bearing sales rep for 20 years (and an avid cyclist, and we have this same "technology" debate). Ceramic: Unless you are going to be skating/riding in a furnace, hell, or boiler, ceramic balls are silly; here's why: the purpose of using ceramic balls is they don't expand as much when heated which means they retain their shape better when the temps are over 500 degrees - since humans cannot survive at that temp and it is highly unlikely any of you will be skating/riding in those conditions, then you are left with ONLY the downside of the ceramic balls - they are HARDER than the inner and outer races which means they will wear out FASTER than conventional ball bearings and you will be paying MORE and doing it MORE OFTEN! On to the the Stainless steel myth! S/S is need for corrosion resistance ONLY! If you are doing ALOT of skating/riding in salt-water, you might want to consider them, but since the performance of boards/bikes in water is pretty bad, most of us avoid those areas. Again, you are left with the downside of Stainless Steel - it's NOT has hard as regular bearing steel, so jumps/tricks will cause microscopic "dents" in the balls, thus creating friction/heat and poor performance over time. CONCLUSION: Use plain-old ball bearings (even ABEC 5, 7 and 9 are a bit of a marketing ploy for skaters/riders). If you want the best performance, choose a nice INexpensive set of ball bearings and replace them often. You will also want to find ones that are "SHIELDED" not "sealed". Yes, the "sealed" bearings will keep out water and dust, but the seals create ALOT drag on the inner races and reducer performance. Shielded Bearings will keep out 99% of the crap and perform best - just replace often and you'll be awesome all the time! Next, GREASE is SLOW, OIL is FAST... carefully pop off the shields and use a degreaser to remove the grease. Replace with a light grade oil (not WD40 - it will evaporate), I suggest Singer sewing machine oil or ANY oil that is a "5 weight" or LESS - use often, just let it seep into the shields since there is a TINY gap between the shield and the inner race. The excess will be pushed out by the balls when you ride next time. As far as ABEC 5,7, and 9: Congrat, if you have ABEC 9 - NASA doesn't use balls that precise! Unless you are trying to control a turn down to the nano-micro-arc, you will NEVER see the advantages of that level of precision (even from ABEC-5 or 7). You may want to consider using these "marketing tools" if your sponsor TELLS you to, but for us regular mortals who are just out for a good ride, skip the extra-$$$ and get no-frills Shielded bearings! >>>> if you want an "upgrade" that IS worth the extra expense, then consider a Japanese Bearing over a Chinese Bearing - Only 3 factories in the world produce QUALITY "extra-clean 52100 Bearing steel" - one is Timken in the USA, SKF in Sweden and NTN in Japan. Everything else is a "wanna be." Japan has the BEST facilities for producing "micro" ball bearings - the USA and Europeans don't really do them any more since the Japanese are so damn good at it and the Chinese can do it "good enough" for the industrial and medical markets. So, enjoy your ride and don't get caught in the hype of products whose ONLY design is to get money OUT of your pocket, not put performance in your board/bike!
+Jay Hyde well, I got caught in a rainstorm with cheap steel bearings yesterday, and today 5 out of 8 seized on me, shredding on my poor trucks and leaving me board-less for a day. Stainless for me next time. (rollerblade wheels on my board were completely unphased by rain, though. 7/10 would get wet again)
I got a couple questions I hope you could answer. Would downhill Longboards be better suited with ceramic bearings? Reason I ask is the greater speed they travel at for longer distances. Would for ultimate speed, one time use, would removing the dirt cover and decreasing them have the highest one time speed? I have heard good things about bearings from the German market. Do you have any experience with their products? Could you get away with using two bearings for a skateboard?(one per truck) Would there be a drag benefit? Thank you for a great write up on bearings!
Good information, thanks. I was about to write... Ceramics are only advantageous in extreme temp applications. Also, skateboards are not particularly stressful on bearings when compared to there use in machinery / engines. :-) I had SKF in my skateboard 25 years ago, I didn't know they were good. NMB were more popular.
Yes it is, because on a skateboard a bearing suffers from a lot of vibrations and shocks from the road and tricks, where in engines they only suffer from high speed/high temperatures. They are designed for high speed/high temperatures but they are not designed (at all) for vibrations and shocks, where any steel will win easily the duel
I know that if you oil a bicycle hub with high quality bearings (rather than grease it) you can just spin the axle in the hub and it will go like a top. (because I've seen this done) which sounds like a fantastic vote for oiled bearings. but ... basically, grease is higher viscosity, and it takes more force for the bearings to move through it than oil, but that difference in force is really minuscule. Spinning an axle in a bicycle hub is an impressive display, but it's meaningless in practical applications. The inertia of a moving bike/skateboard compounded with the inertia of the rider is many thousands of times greater than the force needed to overcome the viscosity of bearing grease. Sure, it makes a tiny tiny tiny TINY difference, but you have to re-oil the bearings all the time or they'll go to shit. With grease you can *usually* ride it for years without maintenance. all of this applies to skateboards the same as it does bikes. I'm sure people are going to grease their skateboard bearings and then notice that the wheel doesn't spin as fast as with oil, when they spin it with their hand, but that's because a skateboard wheel has very little mass, which means it carries less inertia, so it has less force to put into overcoming the viscosity of grease. When a human being (even a very small one) stands on the skateboard, suddenly you have a lot more inertia to pull from, so much that you won't notice the difference between greased and oiled bearings. so why use oil if you have to re-apply it all the time?
Actually the problem of the steel ones is that they slightly expand under heat, causing more friction, unlike ceramic, this ones stay the same way. They both heat up the same way, but they react differently. It's a lot more critical for longboarding, here you can reach way higher velocities and bearing heat. Hope this is helpful
Ceramic expands abt 50% as much with same amount of heat idk if it gets up more/less/same in comparison due to friction though so that doesn’t really mean it’s that amount better
aaron, i know 5 tricks, shuv it, pop shuvit, fs 180, kickflip and oolie. i learned all of these on your channel. it took me forever to learn a kickflip but i watch your how to kickflip videos over and over i guess something just clicked, thank you aaron soo much for helping me with my skating skills, this is also one of my favorite channels on youtube. THANK YOU.
I got Bones swiss ceramics a few years back at a good discount, and they still are rockin smoother than my reds ever did. Reds are fantastic bearings for the price, and the swiss ceramics are overpriced incomparison, but if you can bag some at a good price I highly recommend it.
Changing your wheels will pretty much always make more of a difference than changing your bearings' balls from stainless to ceramic. The balls are the (to my knowledge) strongest part of the bearings and will probably outlive the casing whether they're ceramic or not.
Another reason these high-tech crystalline ceramics are good is because when smooth steel is forced into contact with another smooth steel surface, it gets "wrung" or bound to it in a physical way, much like a suction cup. This effect, when left alone, can cause those two pieces to slightly weld together, and when broken free, will cause marring on both surfaces, where as ceramic on ceramic or even ceramic on steel will not weld together when wrung. This info, mind you, was taught to me by my college manufacturing and machining teacher, and was originally in reference to the care and treatment of gauge blocks, which are precision measuring tools that must be wrung together to get an accurate measurement.
hey I'm from Philippines. I really appreciated this site of yours. Thanks to your bunch of tutorials I'm a good skater after 3 years of just watching and learning your videos. Thanks man. Hope that we can play game of skate.
Friction causes heat. But in the case of these bearings the friction causes heat heat causes the bearings to expand, bearings expand and make more contact with the out wall of the bearing thus more friction. So you're right in this context but wrong in every other context. Both LegendLength and Napukin. Both of you are wrong.
that was a great video, interested to see how the ceramics hold up. I've heard so many different things about them and i'm not sure if i want to get them.
+ZONE6666 He has said bolts on multiple videos, huge pet peeve of mine too lol. You would be surprised how many mechanics say bolts for nuts... Also Unloosened... Like what?!? You want me to tighten that?
it sounds like ceramic would experience less wear due to heat cycles so it should last a lot longer based on that, but I am worried about how brittle they are? I have some full ceramics in hand, they feel delicate : ) can't wait to try them out
by under load they mean maximum use, the more you use them the hotter the small balls get and metal heat faster making them expand or deform they don't mean deform from the load of your weight.
U r a trip to listen to:). I learn something every time I watch. Your format rocks. You make me wish I skateboarded. I'm not much of a skateboarder, but longboard and skate some. I wish you would incorporate some/more longboard and skating things here and there.
what did you learn? how to google? his format is shit he had no outward opinion simply because he got a free product that cost like what ten dollars and then proceeded to stroke the balls of the company off the back
I like the explanation except the example you gave. The deformation of the balls from high rpm is what they are referring to. The weight of the rider is negligible. And since they deform less(essentially just because they are a harder and smoother material) is what is going to cause them to run cooler. Momentum energy stays momentum instead of changing into heat energy via deformation(another word for friction)
You did a good job explaining the difference between the two. No idea why I'm subscribed to a skating channel because I don't skate, even in games. I like watching though. :) Keep it up.
+Jake Labbe lol , thanks for asking. I was just about to ask. Ok maybe i should have watched the whole video. At the very end of the video they had the name of the song
just want to correct Aaron a little bit: The friction, which causes the bearings to heat up, doesn't come from the ball revolving inside of the bearing casing (the metal donut), but rather from rotation. The inner circle of the bearing is fixed in place with the bolt. The outer circle spins quickly, while the balls stay in place, but rotate very quickly. The friction comes from any place the balls touch. So on the top of the ball, where it touches the outer circle, the bottom of the ball, where it touches the inner circle, and each side, where the ball comes in contact with another ball. Over time, the heat will warp the balls, and a ball that isn't a perfect sphere won't roll as well. Edit: Just speculating, but I would imagine that the steel balls are better for trick boarding. Ceramic is brittle and cracks easily. So for longboarding over distances, or downhill, you would want ceramic. I'm not sure if they would last if you were doing kickflips and stair jumps though.
I have had black panther ceramics for about 5 years and they are amazing they haven't slowed down on me yet, I use them with OJ key frames and they are fast I never really understood the difference until now
Ceramics are harder than steel. So when you put load on them they don't deform as much, meaning less contact, meaning less friction. Also they are probably more durable, steel balls could potentially warp permanently, where ceramic won't but would probably be slightly more brittle.
or you can stop pulling shit out of your ass and talk to someone who knows about bearings and isn't trying to sell you something because what you're saying it's just the salesman mumbo jumbo to get you to spend more money on ceramic pieces of shit
All bearings are the same pretty much... Oust bearings are different because they were made for skateboarding. Other bearings for skateboarding were actually made like machine bearings.
MrWhitePerson I honestly don't think anyone who rode on either of these bearings would tell the difference, but in commercial application ceramic balls are used in high speed bearings to reduce heat from friction so they don't deform and then they last much longer. Not pulling that out my ass, just ask a machinist.
MrWhitePerson I don't know if there are many people out there that specialize in skateboard bearings, and if they do its probably that they specialize in marketing them to people.
Travis sturzl and then ask the machinist if that matters at all for a skateboard, ceramic is more expensive and you're not taking advantage of it's strong points
i was under the impression ceramic bearings are ideal for down hill racing with longboards because of the high speeds, i don't see the heat/friction being a issue under normal street or park settings
simply ceramic balls wont expand when they heat up like the stainless steal balls and they will stay in the same size but the steal ones will expand and that would produce friction in the bearings
stainless *steel* isn't going to expand enough to cause problems as a skateboard bearing. ... MAYBE if you're doing some kind of downhill world speed record, but not for park sessions.
Your so idiotic. Longboarders and Skateboarders need to just get along. We're one in the same. Us skaters need to embrace our differences. There is really no reason for us to hate each other.
I've had my Bone Swiss Ceramics for atleast 10 years(Since middle school, now I'm 25). Had bought 20 of them since I had speed skates back in the day. Now I just cruise on skateboard with them. They still work and spin just like they use too, maybe even faster. I do clean pretty much every time I ride, so that probably has something to do with it.
I know this is such an old comment so a long shot that I’ll get a response but could you tell me how you clean your bearings? I saw some sources that said to use high percentage isopropyl alcohol but I did that and I feel like my bearings immediately slowed down. I don’t know if the cleaning method had anything to do with it. They were stainless steel bearings.
The only time I can see a need for ceramics is maybe downhill racing due to the heat buildup. The "deformation" is a sales gimmick. Yes steel can deform under 1000's of pounds, but ceramic will crack or chip long before that... like the first time you kick flip. Plus, they're probably not even ceramic (zirconium dioxide), It's probably just titanium nitride coated steel (technically a ceramic). The stuff that makes dirt bike shocks and drill bits look gold. it's a cheap and effective friction reducing and highly scratch resistant coating. Save your money, just buy quality steel.
I do a lot of pushing on my skateboard and that's my transportation to get around and I have soft and a assortment of wheels but I love to push really FAST. So any recommendations for bearings
The ABEC ratings and materials used for skateboard bearings are just a marketing tool at this point, skateboarding isn't an application where such high tolerances are needed or would be noticeable at the speeds you'd be going. There are bearing metrics which are relevant for skateboard application which aren't even measured by ABEC ratings. Would be better to get some straight up reviews of different bearings vs one another as the quality of construction is likely to make more difference to a skateboard than even the difference between ABEC 1 vs ABEC 9, assuming they are both made well.
Exactly, What's important in skate bearings is that they don't have thick grease, and are durable. ABEC has nothing to do with that. The ABEC rating on these bearings he has are 9. That means the milling is precise enough for aerospace and surgical applications. Completely irrelevant. the speed of the bearing has nothing to do with that. Cheap $1 ABEC 1 (lowest official rating) chinese 608r's made for household applications like celing fans can easily go 2,000 RPM no problem, and guess what. The fit right into your skateboard wheels. 608s are the most common bearing on the planet, and were the very first standardized bearing size. They are used in everything. that's why we skate them.
I find the easiest way to notice a difference in the bearings is how much longer the ceramics spin than the other. Not only are they faster, but they spin longer because it takes longer for the friction to stop them. So if you were to always start off skating stainless bearing with 3 pushes and see how far you roll, compared to how far you roll when you give the same 3 pushes of the same force using ceramic bearings, you'll actually go farther. That's what I've noticed more than the speed when it comes to the bearings.
If you care about having quality bearings, the best thing you can do is just replace them more often. Basically any bearings you use are going to get dirty and gummy after a while no matter what material theyre made of
Ceramic bearings are just a marketing strategy to get you to buy a more expensive bearing. Ceramic bearings do handle heat much better, but you will never go fast enough for it to make a difference. If you plan on doing gaps and stairs, steel bearings handle a much higher load than ceramics do. Ceramic bearings crack much more easily than steel ones. As long as you are periodically cleaning your bearings will allow them to last much longer no matter what type of bearing it is. The only plus ceramic bearings have is that they won't rust, which will help them last much longer. That's really the only plus side. Other than that, stainless steel is the way to go. Just make sure you are checking for rust and are cleaning them
+Rage CL they are actually ment more for longboards. the speeds they go, stainless steel will melt their wheels. they actually do go alot faster as they hold speed longer. iv used both on my cruiser board and iv blown up wheels with stainless because of them getting too hot from bombing a hill to get home faster haha. but ill blow up ceramics all the time by even just doing ollies. its not a marketing strategy, its just guys buying shit ment more for longboards. its like buying longboard trucks to help prevent speed wobbles, but complain that the kingpin gets destroyed for being positioned wrong. lol (i do both, longboard and skate. nothing funner then bombing hills and doing kickflips. lol)
+Red1676 you see what I mean though. Skateboards don't need them but they market to all types of boarding in order to get more sales than just from longboarding
I find a lot of them are still marketed to Longboards. Lots even come with spacers built in. I find a lot of shops will try to get into this long board trend by bringing a bunch of Longboard stuff into their shops as of sales. The problem is the majority of the people buying the Longboards are just people that have no clue of what Longboards are more geared to and just use them to kick around (the people that the skate community hate). So these people will only buy the single longboard, then think they are set. shops think they should bring in all the extra stuff like bearings and the trucks because they think like skaters as every skater needs new parts when their set is destroyed. These idiots don't think like that though, they will kick their Longboards into lakes, use them in the rain, use them in snow and have no clue of anything to the point they will just get rid of it or buy a new complete. Basically, a lot of the reason why you see more people using ceramic is because shops buy all of this stuff for Longboards, but it all just sits there. So the shops will drop the prices and will sell it to anyone that is in need of bearings. It's also why you will see a lot of the idiots on Longboards ment to bomb hills and slide. Shops bought them to sell to wider customer base that doesn't really exist, then sell to anyone when it sits too long. That's kinda the root of people getting ceramics. It's fucked though, the majority of the people that hate Longboards, they don't know what they actually are made for. Lol
I prefer steel ball bearings when doing tricks. When I use a longboard/cruiser board, I use ceramic ball bearings. Also, if you use ceramic ball bearings for trick skating, the ceramic ball could chip, so I that's why I prefer steel ball bearings for when I do tricks.
Whats the point in this video if you dont even show us the bearings, You googled the answer and then said you wont be able to tell the difference anyway ? atleast your title is in caps tho
not like he said he just skated whatever bearings he came across or anything. plus he said he probably wont notice a difference until a few months in which is probably true
I was just wondering if you could do a vs video of catching tricks with you front foot vs. your back foot. Thanks! (Front foot catch vs. back foot catch)
Why would they? each roller would have more surface area on the inner and outer races, resulting in more friction. plus the end of the tapers would be more susceptible to ware. ball bearings are best for high speed low force applications..
Luke Andrew You would only need a inner race, think of a modern car hub. You say "low force" I guess jumping down a flight of stairs is low force? Also the balls do rub together which causes drag, but in a roller each roller moves without secondary load. Skateboards are still very much stuck in the 40's with only a few improvements in the 1970's
All bearings involving rollers or balls need to have two races for the bearing to function. If the design includes one race formed into a bigger assembly, it is still a race, and one that is more expensive to change (i.e. the truck has a race as part of it's forging = replacing the truck come bearing replacement time). In terms of bearings, yes those are "light" loads. Most bearings are able to sustain very large loads and high speeds, for use in machinery. Common uses in things like trucks, cars, household equipment doesn't usually come near the loading limits. Instead, poor maintenance is what kills most bearings. I think Timkin carried out a study and found that 7/8's (I cannot remember the figure but it was extremely high) of bearings are rendered unserviceable through corrosion, and poor maintenance practices. A plain 608 bearing can support something in the region of 140kgf static load, and you have 4 on a deck. Supported dynamic load ratings are much higher than that. What I think you are getting at is shock loads over time which can result in the races being dented. This is a problem with a ball bearing, but usually where a bearing is not moving very far. The headstock of a pushbike or motorbike is a prime example. These bearings move very little, not even 1/4 rev in normal use, but they get hammered on while the bike is moving over bumps. So you have a ball sitting in roughly the same point on the race, slowly hammering away. Not so much a problem in the short term with a skateboard, but it will eventually come into play over time. The balls in a ball bearing should be separated by a "cage", or ball separators. They do not touch. Skateboards are very much stuck with a bearing design that works, is cheaper to produce, is compact and provides low rolling resistance, which is all very desirable for a skateboarder.
It's a good thought. You would have to preload the bearing so they don't wear strange. This would make it a little more complicated, not much but a little, for the person putting the board together.
Consider yourself a winner. You made me think, for a moment, that Bones Swiss might not be the only bearing I should buy. Then again.. I put the kaibosh on that real quick. These may be REALLY dope. But, Bones Swiss for life!
Of course! I would argue longboards are the only excuse to pay extra for ceramics. Also, softer wheels :) Longboards need as little friction as possible to reduce the work you are doing, and the soft wheels helps with vibration fatigue when going long distances. Plus, its easy to explode ceramic bearings when doing tricks, which you wouldn't be doing on a longboard.
I would never use ceramic bearings. It is a gimmick unless under high load (usually 200+ Kg) and high speed e.g. 50,000rpm. The sort of speed needed to generate enough heat for those stainless steel bearings to expand and essentially slow down is unobtainable through the traditional push method in which we skate. On top of this as Aaron has subconsciusly done, you realise the standard SS bearings roll fast enough and you'll never notice it slow down, hence why has never picked anything "Better" than Bones Reds. Furthurmore, if you went through 4 sets a year, assuming they break or sieze or get damaged somehow, you can replace them all 4 times for a total of the cost of Ceramics, which if THEY broke...you'll have already spent $100-130 on two pairs assuming you bought from a reputable skate brand such as Bones for example. It doesn't make sense to buy them. Unless like me, you like to go outside of skatebrands and just try as many cheap options as possible to find that sweetspot between value and price. I will say this however, there are some amazing bearings out there that aren't skate branded, they are just the same size fit and work really well. I bought ceramic bearings for $4 per bearing, they are fully ceramic not like Bones or Synopsis which aren't fully ceramic, they are hybrid bearings...eitherway, did I notice any difference? nope. Bottom Line, if you know the dimensions of skate bearings and know good quality bearings when you see them or get them, then buy them. I have a full set of stainless steel bearings, instead of having 7 bearings in one unit they have 9...sounds better...makes no difference but they cost me $9 for 8....go figure. had them now for 2 years...still rolling with the times (click like if you know where that quote came from) and they have definately given their moneys worth. Hell, at this price i'd be more than happy to buy them every 6 months ha!
syth406 By all means! Its very easy to be taken in by the ABEC rating. don't waste your time. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-5-Pcs-Deep-8mm-x-22mm-x-7mm-Groove-Ball-Wheel-Bearings-/222205030528?hash=item33bc73b080:g:9d8AAOSwRoxXnZzh
VegetaFlex4Fitness Haha you know what's funny is I started working at a bearing-manufacture company 2 weeks ago. And my experience thus far confirms that high ABEC bearings are immediately brought down to the standard ABEC 3 class simply by being used for like a minute on skateboards, because they're not meant to handle torque or axial loads. ABEC has a very clear purpose, just not one relevant to skating or any kind of wheel-sport.
syth406 exactly...but you're looking at at least 25 years of product being sold on the merit of something that has no benefit. These skate brands that people have been so loyal to have been rinsing us all along. wheres the loyalty in that.
Hi Aaron ur probably not goin to read this but I just wanted to say I love ur videos I've only been skating for 3 months and ur are an inspiration my idol keep doin what your doin and stay awesome I'd love to meet you 1 day but I live in the uk but oh stay awesome and keep doin what your doing
Steve Macleod It used to say "nothing terribly wrong with saying heat causes friction" Just removed the redundant part. Oh the irony of covering for Aaron. Somehow it results in getting mocked by elementary school kids.
Uhm, yeah i would buy ceramics, they aren't much more expensive so they're worth a try. If you don't like them or don't see a difference i'd go back to steel.
have you ever looked at roller hockey bearings i think they are the same but they have better than abec9 i am not a skateboarder so i am sorry if this is no help
I really want a video about Aaron just cruising around the city(like the ones in ride channel) and show us his neighborhood, some spots in San Francisco, etc.
Aaron i have recently discovered you channel and i love it! im a late beginner for my age, and i was wondering where I could get a not too expensive skateboard that is still quality and wont snap when i attempt an ollie. Or is it just better to fork up the cash for a quality board?
+Daniel M I am a late beginner too.. I forked up the cash because there are a lot of videos on YT saying that the cheap boards are no good. (Such as Walmart.) if you go to a store, try to spin the wheels. You will see they barely spin. This is dangerous. Also they are only meant for up to 110 pounds.
Some people still go through boards fast.. depends on how you use it. But if you watch games of S K A T E with Walmart boards, they are falling apart in one game. They also make it harder to learn. I am just going from the videos I see.. I have not ever had a cheap board.
+Daniel M Fork up some cash. I promise it will be worth it. Revive boards don't break unless they are really old and used/damaged but even then it takes a lot!
Actually doing research for a hidden blade build, so far for what I have in mind a skateboard bearing is perfect, is there a way you add resistance so you have you use a little force to rotate it?
I been skating Swiss ceramics for a while in my street set up and just changed them into my Boosted board to see if it'll increase my range or board performance. So far not that noticeable difference because I didn't waste time with the stock Boosted bearings, lol.
Both Stainless steel and Ceramic ball bearings are a marketing ploy to get you to buy a product that YOU DON'T NEED! I have been an industrial bearing sales rep for 20 years (and an avid cyclist, and we have this same "technology" debate). Ceramic: Unless you are going to be skating/riding in a furnace, hell, or boiler, ceramic balls are silly; here's why: the purpose of using ceramic balls is they don't expand as much when heated which means they retain their shape better when the temps are over 500 degrees - since humans cannot survive at that temp and it is highly unlikely any of you will be skating/riding in those conditions, then you are left with ONLY the downside of the ceramic balls - they are HARDER than the inner and outer races which means they will wear out FASTER than conventional ball bearings and you will be paying MORE and doing it MORE OFTEN! On to the the Stainless steel myth! S/S is need for corrosion resistance ONLY! If you are doing ALOT of skating/riding in salt-water, you might want to consider them, but since the performance of boards/bikes in water is pretty bad, most of us avoid those areas. Again, you are left with the downside of Stainless Steel - it's NOT has hard as regular bearing steel, so jumps/tricks will cause microscopic "dents" in the balls, thus creating friction/heat and poor performance over time. CONCLUSION: Use plain-old ball bearings (even ABEC 5, 7 and 9 are a bit of a marketing ploy for skaters/riders). If you want the best performance, choose a nice INexpensive set of ball bearings and replace them often. You will also want to find ones that are "SHIELDED" not "sealed". Yes, the "sealed" bearings will keep out water and dust, but the seals create ALOT drag on the inner races and reducer performance. Shielded Bearings will keep out 99% of the crap and perform best - just replace often and you'll be awesome all the time! Next, GREASE is SLOW, OIL is FAST... carefully pop off the shields and use a degreaser to remove the grease. Replace with a light grade oil (not WD40 - it will evaporate), I suggest Singer sewing machine oil or ANY oil that is a "5 weight" or LESS - use often, just let it seep into the shields since there is a TINY gap between the shield and the inner race. The excess will be pushed out by the balls when you ride next time. As far as ABEC 5,7, and 9: Congrat, if you have ABEC 9 - NASA doesn't use balls that precise! Unless you are trying to control a turn down to the nano-micro-arc, you will NEVER see the advantages of that level of precision (even from ABEC-5 or 7). You may want to consider using these "marketing tools" if your sponsor TELLS you to, but for us regular mortals who are just out for a good ride, skip the extra-$$$ and get no-frills Shielded bearings! >>>> if you want an "upgrade" that IS worth the extra expense, then consider a Japanese Bearing over a Chinese Bearing - Only 3 factories in the world produce QUALITY "extra-clean 52100 Bearing steel" - one is Timken in the USA, SKF in Sweden and NTN in Japan. Everything else is a "wanna be." Japan has the BEST facilities for producing "micro" ball bearings - the USA and Europeans don't really do them any more since the Japanese are so damn good at it and the Chinese can do it "good enough" for the industrial and medical markets. So, enjoy your ride and don't get caught in the hype of products whose ONLY design is to get money OUT of your pocket, not put performance in your board/bike!
+Jay Hyde well, I got caught in a rainstorm with cheap steel bearings yesterday, and today 5 out of 8 seized on me, shredding on my poor trucks and leaving me board-less for a day. Stainless for me next time.
(rollerblade wheels on my board were completely unphased by rain, though. 7/10 would get wet again)
I got a couple questions I hope you could answer.
Would downhill Longboards be better suited with ceramic bearings? Reason I ask is the greater speed they travel at for longer distances.
Would for ultimate speed, one time use, would removing the dirt cover and decreasing them have the highest one time speed?
I have heard good things about bearings from the German market. Do you have any experience with their products?
Could you get away with using two bearings for a skateboard?(one per truck) Would there be a drag benefit?
Thank you for a great write up on bearings!
Good information, thanks.
I was about to write... Ceramics are only advantageous in extreme temp applications. Also, skateboards are not particularly stressful on bearings when compared to there use in machinery / engines.
:-) I had SKF in my skateboard 25 years ago, I didn't know they were good.
NMB were more popular.
Yes it is, because on a skateboard a bearing suffers from a lot of vibrations and shocks from the road and tricks, where in engines they only suffer from high speed/high temperatures.
They are designed for high speed/high temperatures but they are not designed (at all) for vibrations and shocks, where any steel will win easily the duel
I know that if you oil a bicycle hub with high quality bearings (rather than grease it) you can just spin the axle in the hub and it will go like a top. (because I've seen this done) which sounds like a fantastic vote for oiled bearings.
but ... basically, grease is higher viscosity, and it takes more force for the bearings to move through it than oil, but that difference in force is really minuscule. Spinning an axle in a bicycle hub is an impressive display, but it's meaningless in practical applications. The inertia of a moving bike/skateboard compounded with the inertia of the rider is many thousands of times greater than the force needed to overcome the viscosity of bearing grease.
Sure, it makes a tiny tiny tiny TINY difference, but you have to re-oil the bearings all the time or they'll go to shit. With grease you can *usually* ride it for years without maintenance.
all of this applies to skateboards the same as it does bikes. I'm sure people are going to grease their skateboard bearings and then notice that the wheel doesn't spin as fast as with oil, when they spin it with their hand, but that's because a skateboard wheel has very little mass, which means it carries less inertia, so it has less force to put into overcoming the viscosity of grease. When a human being (even a very small one) stands on the skateboard, suddenly you have a lot more inertia to pull from, so much that you won't notice the difference between greased and oiled bearings. so why use oil if you have to re-apply it all the time?
Hey Aaron just had an idea for the next game of skate .
Put Velcro on your shoes and replace the grip tape with Velcro . Sounds like fun to me lol.
Tsm fan! :p
chris101524 y3 br0
I had an idea put velcrow on your shoes and board
@@gummyworm102 6 years ago
Optimus Prime has stainless steel balls
+DeathToxik Dude thats hilarious
+DeathToxik They deform under heavy heat... gross
Most gay thread in youtube history
LMAO
2ChiLL2Care big ones too
bro your like the Bob Ross of skateboarding. your so mellow it's fantastically infectious. and the music is brilliant. thank you.
Actually the problem of the steel ones is that they slightly expand under heat, causing more friction, unlike ceramic, this ones stay the same way. They both heat up the same way, but they react differently. It's a lot more critical for longboarding, here you can reach way higher velocities and bearing heat. Hope this is helpful
thanks
even though your comment is 5 years old, it helped me a lot. THANKS:)
2023 I literally stopped this brail vid at 17 secs cuz this told me all I need to know lol .
Ceramic expands abt 50% as much with same amount of heat idk if it gets up more/less/same in comparison due to friction though so that doesn’t really mean it’s that amount better
u laughed when u said black balls lmao
hilarious
racist
1:38 lmfao
+cool redstone please explain?
+Tamahagane apparently pointing out that a bearing is a colour (or lack there of) is racist
Let's be honest, how many of you laughed when Aaron said "black balls?" Even he laughed.
+Myles Goldman honestly i about had a heart attack from laughing
Me
+Myles Goldman I wasn't laughing because he was saying "black balls," I was laughing about how he was laughing lolol
+Myles Goldman i know, right. that was the moment
+Myles Goldman Congratulations u found a way to get spam
aaron, i know 5 tricks, shuv it, pop shuvit, fs 180, kickflip and oolie. i learned all of these on your channel. it took me forever to learn a kickflip but i watch your how to kickflip videos over and over i guess something just clicked, thank you aaron soo much for helping me with my skating skills, this is also one of my favorite channels on youtube. THANK YOU.
I got Bones swiss ceramics a few years back at a good discount, and they still are rockin smoother than my reds ever did. Reds are fantastic bearings for the price, and the swiss ceramics are overpriced incomparison, but if you can bag some at a good price I highly recommend it.
just got back into skateboarding after like 6 years using you guys as help to get back into it and braille has the best how to trick tip videos
So after 7 years, how has it been going?
Wtf who uses white and gold bearings
They're black and blue
+Neo Cushing Ohhhh you don't get it.
+Justin Motionless in white is life
***** Yesssss. I saw them like 3 months ago and cant wait to see them again>
Lmao
5:15 I'm dead 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
gonna skate like that everywhere
xD looked like a ps1 character running
@@adriandoray431 lmao no. Check the old NES/PS1 skater games
Changing your wheels will pretty much always make more of a difference than changing your bearings' balls from stainless to ceramic. The balls are the (to my knowledge) strongest part of the bearings and will probably outlive the casing whether they're ceramic or not.
Another reason these high-tech crystalline ceramics are good is because when smooth steel is forced into contact with another smooth steel surface, it gets "wrung" or bound to it in a physical way, much like a suction cup. This effect, when left alone, can cause those two pieces to slightly weld together, and when broken free, will cause marring on both surfaces, where as ceramic on ceramic or even ceramic on steel will not weld together when wrung. This info, mind you, was taught to me by my college manufacturing and machining teacher, and was originally in reference to the care and treatment of gauge blocks, which are precision measuring tools that must be wrung together to get an accurate measurement.
does anybody know if he re-reviewed these ceramic bearings a couple of months later?
hey I'm from Philippines. I really appreciated this site of yours. Thanks to your bunch of tutorials I'm a good skater after 3 years of just watching and learning your videos. Thanks man. Hope that we can play game of skate.
Heat causes friction. Thanks Aaron. Today I learned some physics.
Napukin I thought that friction created heat?
Friction causes heat. But in the case of these bearings the friction causes heat heat causes the bearings to expand, bearings expand and make more contact with the out wall of the bearing thus more friction.
So you're right in this context but wrong in every other context. Both LegendLength and Napukin. Both of you are wrong.
Ryan Uri Thanks! This helped
that was a great video, interested to see how the ceramics hold up. I've heard so many different things about them and i'm not sure if i want to get them.
Ceramic Bearings: keep them clean and you'll never need another set.
thanks i just baught some 😁
Do u still have the same ones 🤔
@@ga3816 fair question
You know you are the best youtuber when you post as much as you
Dude...they're NUTS! not bolts!! ... cool vid though (Y)
Ikr
Sliver balls black balls as Aron said
Sliver balls black balls as Aron said
I meant when aaron said "you get extra bolts" in the pack....He meant "Nuts" not "bolts" ... i didn't say Balls hahahaha
+ZONE6666 He has said bolts on multiple videos, huge pet peeve of mine too lol. You would be surprised how many mechanics say bolts for nuts... Also Unloosened... Like what?!? You want me to tighten that?
can you do a comparison test by like doing front steel back ceramics then do a longest manual test
Bones reds are the best !
+larry fisherman i like bones blue
+FeaR FuZiioN jart bluerings are always going to be the best for me
Bones Swiss bearings are just like any other bearings, you just paying for the brand name is all
Girl blues are good.
it's a fact that the reds ceramic and the Swiss are better than the reds but reds are probably the best value for money but really it's all opinion
Hi you guys are an inspiration to me and i wish I can meet you guys and be as good as you guys
it sounds like ceramic would experience less wear due to heat cycles
so it should last a lot longer based on that, but I am worried about how brittle they are?
I have some full ceramics in hand, they feel delicate : ) can't wait to try them out
Did they last? Lol
Is your wedding band a bearing ring? I just noticed that's what it looks like next to the bearing. =0
+Jonathan Guzman wondering the same thing
Every man's rings are just a solid ring.
Every man's rings are just a solid ring.
I broke my bearing to do that cuz I'm married to my board
+Alex Ochoa kinda was kinda wasnt cuz I did do it but it rusted
by under load they mean maximum use, the more you use them the hotter the small balls get and metal heat faster making them expand or deform they don't mean deform from the load of your weight.
you a furry?
yes I'm a fur.
really?
This is correct.
yes lol
U r a trip to listen to:). I learn something every time I watch. Your format rocks. You make me wish I skateboarded. I'm not much of a skateboarder, but longboard and skate some. I wish you would incorporate some/more longboard and skating things here and there.
what did you learn? how to google? his format is shit he had no outward opinion simply because he got a free product that cost like what ten dollars and then proceeded to stroke the balls of the company off the back
"That heat causes friction" *facepalm* Friction causes heat
it said heat from friction, not heat causes friction
+Harry Belcher shit sorry he said heat causes friction later in the video. My bad.
+Harry Belcher
friction
heat
balls expand
+Logical Order The heat deforms the bearing balls inside and increases friction is what he meant
Yea I think it's friction causes heat which in turn causes more friction. If that makes any sense.
I like the explanation except the example you gave. The deformation of the balls from high rpm is what they are referring to. The weight of the rider is negligible. And since they deform less(essentially just because they are a harder and smoother material) is what is going to cause them to run cooler. Momentum energy stays momentum instead of changing into heat energy via deformation(another word for friction)
They are nuts! not bolts. black balls and new nuts!
You did a good job explaining the difference between the two. No idea why I'm subscribed to a skating channel because I don't skate, even in games. I like watching though. :) Keep it up.
What is the name of the song and the band that played it? Ska rules man!
Max in the crowd - skankin makes you cool
+Jake Labbe lol , thanks for asking. I was just about to ask.
Ok maybe i should have watched the whole video. At the very end of the video they had the name of the song
Snootches Bootches
Oh shit, yeah maybe I should have finished the whole video too.
lol , yeah.I think they just started doing this recently. Last video i watched a couple of weeks ago it was at the end of the video also.
Yeah, I didn't think they put the songs in the credits, I too haven't seen them, or heard of them being there until now.
I totally love the way you push on your skateboard
All I can really say is "Bones Reds".
Nah man, Bones Swiss
bones 5 ball bearings
BONES SWISS CERAMICS - The way to go.
+Sander Harrsen they cost 189 euro in the Netherlands!!!
+Sander Harrsen they cost 189 euro in the Netherlands!!!
just want to correct Aaron a little bit:
The friction, which causes the bearings to heat up, doesn't come from the ball revolving inside of the bearing casing (the metal donut), but rather from rotation. The inner circle of the bearing is fixed in place with the bolt. The outer circle spins quickly, while the balls stay in place, but rotate very quickly. The friction comes from any place the balls touch. So on the top of the ball, where it touches the outer circle, the bottom of the ball, where it touches the inner circle, and each side, where the ball comes in contact with another ball.
Over time, the heat will warp the balls, and a ball that isn't a perfect sphere won't roll as well.
Edit: Just speculating, but I would imagine that the steel balls are better for trick boarding. Ceramic is brittle and cracks easily. So for longboarding over distances, or downhill, you would want ceramic. I'm not sure if they would last if you were doing kickflips and stair jumps though.
I love how you have only half an idea of what you're talking about
He knew how to explain the tech-savvy descriptions on "that thing called google" though
I have had black panther ceramics for about 5 years and they are amazing they haven't slowed down on me yet, I use them with OJ key frames and they are fast I never really understood the difference until now
Aaron laughed after he said: "black balls".
Haha, that's hilarious.
Anyone know the name of the song that plays in the background at 4:49 I tried looking for it by the lyrics and google has failed me :'(
Ceramics are harder than steel. So when you put load on them they don't deform as much, meaning less contact, meaning less friction. Also they are probably more durable, steel balls could potentially warp permanently, where ceramic won't but would probably be slightly more brittle.
or you can stop pulling shit out of your ass and talk to someone who knows about bearings and isn't trying to sell you something because what you're saying it's just the salesman mumbo jumbo to get you to spend more money on ceramic pieces of shit
All bearings are the same pretty much... Oust bearings are different because they were made for skateboarding. Other bearings for skateboarding were actually made like machine bearings.
MrWhitePerson I honestly don't think anyone who rode on either of these bearings would tell the difference, but in commercial application ceramic balls are used in high speed bearings to reduce heat from friction so they don't deform and then they last much longer. Not pulling that out my ass, just ask a machinist.
MrWhitePerson I don't know if there are many people out there that specialize in skateboard bearings, and if they do its probably that they specialize in marketing them to people.
Travis sturzl
and then ask the machinist if that matters at all for a skateboard, ceramic is more expensive and you're not taking advantage of it's strong points
i was under the impression ceramic bearings are ideal for down hill racing with longboards because of the high speeds, i don't see the heat/friction being a issue under normal street or park settings
simply
ceramic balls wont expand when they heat up like the stainless steal balls
and they will stay in the same size but the steal ones will expand and that would produce friction in the bearings
you're **
and thanks :P
stainless *steel* isn't going to expand enough to cause problems as a skateboard bearing. ... MAYBE if you're doing some kind of downhill world speed record, but not for park sessions.
simply
learn how to spell steel. You got it wrong twice in the same run on sentence.
+random blowup baht you no say so good dummay
well what like steel is going to melt? I don't think so guy. it's like metal and metal is strong think about it.
I got a revive board and I was wondering what all comes in it I just got grip tape and the board is there supposed to be more than that
so do these work for longboards?
+Kelvin Wong yes.. bearings work on any skateboard that has wheels.
Unfortunately they don't. Long boards only run on tampons and shouldnt have anything to do with actual skating products.
Your so idiotic. Longboarders and Skateboarders need to just get along. We're one in the same. Us skaters need to embrace our differences. There is really no reason for us to hate each other.
+ChroniclesOfMe sorry i didnt know
Kelvin Wong
Oh, no dude I'm not talking to you I'm talking to oSNACKo, your fine man.
I've had my Bone Swiss Ceramics for atleast 10 years(Since middle school, now I'm 25). Had bought 20 of them since I had speed skates back in the day. Now I just cruise on skateboard with them. They still work and spin just like they use too, maybe even faster. I do clean pretty much every time I ride, so that probably has something to do with it.
I know this is such an old comment so a long shot that I’ll get a response but could you tell me how you clean your bearings? I saw some sources that said to use high percentage isopropyl alcohol but I did that and I feel like my bearings immediately slowed down. I don’t know if the cleaning method had anything to do with it. They were stainless steel bearings.
The only time I can see a need for ceramics is maybe downhill racing due to the heat buildup.
The "deformation" is a sales gimmick. Yes steel can deform under 1000's of pounds, but ceramic will crack or chip long before that... like the first time you kick flip.
Plus, they're probably not even ceramic (zirconium dioxide), It's probably just titanium nitride coated steel (technically a ceramic). The stuff that makes dirt bike shocks and drill bits look gold. it's a cheap and effective friction reducing and highly scratch resistant coating.
Save your money, just buy quality steel.
I do a lot of pushing on my skateboard and that's my transportation to get around and I have soft and a assortment of wheels but I love to push really FAST. So any recommendations for bearings
The ABEC ratings and materials used for skateboard bearings are just a marketing tool at this point, skateboarding isn't an application where such high tolerances are needed or would be noticeable at the speeds you'd be going. There are bearing metrics which are relevant for skateboard application which aren't even measured by ABEC ratings. Would be better to get some straight up reviews of different bearings vs one another as the quality of construction is likely to make more difference to a skateboard than even the difference between ABEC 1 vs ABEC 9, assuming they are both made well.
true
I believe you'd need a certain level of abec for a skateboard, but going past that is pointless.
Yeah but on rollerblades or on a longboard i'd assume there'd be some sloght noticeable change
you really don't need more than ABEC 3 For skateboards, ABEC 9 being precise enough to send rockets into space.
Exactly, What's important in skate bearings is that they don't have thick grease, and are durable. ABEC has nothing to do with that. The ABEC rating on these bearings he has are 9. That means the milling is precise enough for aerospace and surgical applications. Completely irrelevant. the speed of the bearing has nothing to do with that. Cheap $1 ABEC 1 (lowest official rating) chinese 608r's made for household applications like celing fans can easily go 2,000 RPM no problem, and guess what. The fit right into your skateboard wheels. 608s are the most common bearing on the planet, and were the very first standardized bearing size. They are used in everything. that's why we skate them.
ive noticed on ebay some of the 608 full ceramic bearings have 7 or 8 and even 10 balls in them. which one is better?
I find the easiest way to notice a difference in the bearings is how much longer the ceramics spin than the other. Not only are they faster, but they spin longer because it takes longer for the friction to stop them. So if you were to always start off skating stainless bearing with 3 pushes and see how far you roll, compared to how far you roll when you give the same 3 pushes of the same force using ceramic bearings, you'll actually go farther. That's what I've noticed more than the speed when it comes to the bearings.
not how it works when you add friction
I just this morning bought online Bones Swiss Ceramics so i I’m hoping for a smoother ride 🤞
If you care about having quality bearings, the best thing you can do is just replace them more often. Basically any bearings you use are going to get dirty and gummy after a while no matter what material theyre made of
You want one set of long live high-quality bearing?
Just buy FIVE of them. Problem solved.
...Fuck no dude.
Thanks for the video,I have always used stainless steal bearing.Maybe i should try ouy the ceramic ones.Seems like they might be better.
Ceramic bearings are just a marketing strategy to get you to buy a more expensive bearing. Ceramic bearings do handle heat much better, but you will never go fast enough for it to make a difference. If you plan on doing gaps and stairs, steel bearings handle a much higher load than ceramics do. Ceramic bearings crack much more easily than steel ones. As long as you are periodically cleaning your bearings will allow them to last much longer no matter what type of bearing it is. The only plus ceramic bearings have is that they won't rust, which will help them last much longer. That's really the only plus side. Other than that, stainless steel is the way to go. Just make sure you are checking for rust and are cleaning them
also, the steel rings on a ceramic ball bearing will rust, just not the balls. fyi
+Rage CL they are actually ment more for longboards. the speeds they go, stainless steel will melt their wheels. they actually do go alot faster as they hold speed longer. iv used both on my cruiser board and iv blown up wheels with stainless because of them getting too hot from bombing a hill to get home faster haha. but ill blow up ceramics all the time by even just doing ollies. its not a marketing strategy, its just guys buying shit ment more for longboards. its like buying longboard trucks to help prevent speed wobbles, but complain that the kingpin gets destroyed for being positioned wrong. lol (i do both, longboard and skate. nothing funner then bombing hills and doing kickflips. lol)
+Red1676 you see what I mean though. Skateboards don't need them but they market to all types of boarding in order to get more sales than just from longboarding
I find a lot of them are still marketed to Longboards. Lots even come with spacers built in. I find a lot of shops will try to get into this long board trend by bringing a bunch of Longboard stuff into their shops as of sales. The problem is the majority of the people buying the Longboards are just people that have no clue of what Longboards are more geared to and just use them to kick around (the people that the skate community hate). So these people will only buy the single longboard, then think they are set. shops think they should bring in all the extra stuff like bearings and the trucks because they think like skaters as every skater needs new parts when their set is destroyed. These idiots don't think like that though, they will kick their Longboards into lakes, use them in the rain, use them in snow and have no clue of anything to the point they will just get rid of it or buy a new complete. Basically, a lot of the reason why you see more people using ceramic is because shops buy all of this stuff for Longboards, but it all just sits there. So the shops will drop the prices and will sell it to anyone that is in need of bearings. It's also why you will see a lot of the idiots on Longboards ment to bomb hills and slide. Shops bought them to sell to wider customer base that doesn't really exist, then sell to anyone when it sits too long. That's kinda the root of people getting ceramics.
It's fucked though, the majority of the people that hate Longboards, they don't know what they actually are made for. Lol
WTF did i just read?
What song is played I the video
those were nuts, not bolts :)
So all we got here is a bunch of nuts and balls.:)
Ain't nothin like a good nut
+Indarog that's skateboarding
in a nut shell.
are cheapshots by spitfire good
i have em they are pretty good
I prefer steel ball bearings when doing tricks. When I use a longboard/cruiser board, I use ceramic ball bearings. Also, if you use ceramic ball bearings for trick skating, the ceramic ball could chip, so I that's why I prefer steel ball bearings for when I do tricks.
did you chip ceramic bearing? You would be first person to do that.
What's the differences between the ABEC numbers?
"that heat is gonna cause friction" urmmm
I used something which claimed to be 'titanium bearings". No idea if it's true but i have them 2 years by now and they're still haven't worn out a bit
Whats the point in this video if you dont even show us the bearings, You googled the answer and then said you wont be able to tell the difference anyway ? atleast your title is in caps tho
yah we certainly dont care the opinion of someone that cant tell the difference
he is just happy and stupid that he got a free product
He was telling us which bearings are faster😐😐😐
not like he said he just skated whatever bearings he came across or anything. plus he said he probably wont notice a difference until a few months in which is probably true
I was just wondering if you could do a vs video of catching tricks with you front foot vs. your back foot. Thanks!
(Front foot catch vs. back foot catch)
You notice the difference when you switch back to stainless, rather than the other way around.
hey are you guys going to review that juice? what did he call it, "synthetic grease"?
Surprised no one has made a tapered roller bearing for skateboarding.
Why would they? each roller would have more surface area on the inner and outer races, resulting in more friction. plus the end of the tapers would be more susceptible to ware. ball bearings are best for high speed low force applications..
Luke Andrew
You would only need a inner race, think of a modern car hub. You say "low force" I guess jumping down a flight of stairs is low force?
Also the balls do rub together which causes drag, but in a roller each roller moves without secondary load.
Skateboards are still very much stuck in the 40's with only a few improvements in the 1970's
All bearings involving rollers or balls need to have two races for the bearing to function. If the design includes one race formed into a bigger assembly, it is still a race, and one that is more expensive to change (i.e. the truck has a race as part of it's forging = replacing the truck come bearing replacement time).
In terms of bearings, yes those are "light" loads. Most bearings are able to sustain very large loads and high speeds, for use in machinery. Common uses in things like trucks, cars, household equipment doesn't usually come near the loading limits. Instead, poor maintenance is what kills most bearings. I think Timkin carried out a study and found that 7/8's (I cannot remember the figure but it was extremely high) of bearings are rendered unserviceable through corrosion, and poor maintenance practices.
A plain 608 bearing can support something in the region of 140kgf static load, and you have 4 on a deck. Supported dynamic load ratings are much higher than that. What I think you are getting at is shock loads over time which can result in the races being dented. This is a problem with a ball bearing, but usually where a bearing is not moving very far. The headstock of a pushbike or motorbike is a prime example. These bearings move very little, not even 1/4 rev in normal use, but they get hammered on while the bike is moving over bumps. So you have a ball sitting in roughly the same point on the race, slowly hammering away.
Not so much a problem in the short term with a skateboard, but it will eventually come into play over time.
The balls in a ball bearing should be separated by a "cage", or ball separators. They do not touch.
Skateboards are very much stuck with a bearing design that works, is cheaper to produce, is compact and provides low rolling resistance, which is all very desirable for a skateboarder.
It's a good thought. You would have to preload the bearing so they don't wear strange. This would make it a little more complicated, not much but a little, for the person putting the board together.
Consider yourself a winner. You made me think, for a moment, that Bones Swiss might not be the only bearing I should buy.
Then again.. I put the kaibosh on that real quick. These may be REALLY dope. But, Bones Swiss for life!
last time i came this early i had to pay child support
Cool
+richie forlifeee pull out game weak asf brah
Garf2O no its just that i always get good pussy
Garf2O when it's so good you can't pull out
+Garf2O I agree with this man, always pull out. There's 6 billion other pussies to try why get caught by one and call it the best.
So after you rode them for a while could you tell a difference?
I came here to know which bearings to put in my fidget spinner.
I am very new to this channel and have seen some reviews by this dude and now I am a fan.
Well done. :)
skate the ceramics on a longboard!
Of course! I would argue longboards are the only excuse to pay extra for ceramics. Also, softer wheels :) Longboards need as little friction as possible to reduce the work you are doing, and the soft wheels helps with vibration fatigue when going long distances.
Plus, its easy to explode ceramic bearings when doing tricks, which you wouldn't be doing on a longboard.
Which works best against rain rust? Stainless?
No idea actually.
I would never use ceramic bearings. It is a gimmick unless under high load (usually 200+ Kg) and high speed e.g. 50,000rpm. The sort of speed needed to generate enough heat for those stainless steel bearings to expand and essentially slow down is unobtainable through the traditional push method in which we skate. On top of this as Aaron has subconsciusly done, you realise the standard SS bearings roll fast enough and you'll never notice it slow down, hence why has never picked anything "Better" than Bones Reds. Furthurmore, if you went through 4 sets a year, assuming they break or sieze or get damaged somehow, you can replace them all 4 times for a total of the cost of Ceramics, which if THEY broke...you'll have already spent $100-130 on two pairs assuming you bought from a reputable skate brand such as Bones for example. It doesn't make sense to buy them. Unless like me, you like to go outside of skatebrands and just try as many cheap options as possible to find that sweetspot between value and price. I will say this however, there are some amazing bearings out there that aren't skate branded, they are just the same size fit and work really well. I bought ceramic bearings for $4 per bearing, they are fully ceramic not like Bones or Synopsis which aren't fully ceramic, they are hybrid bearings...eitherway, did I notice any difference? nope. Bottom Line, if you know the dimensions of skate bearings and know good quality bearings when you see them or get them, then buy them. I have a full set of stainless steel bearings, instead of having 7 bearings in one unit they have 9...sounds better...makes no difference but they cost me $9 for 8....go figure. had them now for 2 years...still rolling with the times (click like if you know where that quote came from) and they have definately given their moneys worth. Hell, at this price i'd be more than happy to buy them every 6 months ha!
Can you link your non skate branded bearings? I'm super curious now!
syth406
By all means! Its very easy to be taken in by the ABEC rating. don't waste your time. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-5-Pcs-Deep-8mm-x-22mm-x-7mm-Groove-Ball-Wheel-Bearings-/222205030528?hash=item33bc73b080:g:9d8AAOSwRoxXnZzh
VegetaFlex4Fitness Haha you know what's funny is I started working at a bearing-manufacture company 2 weeks ago. And my experience thus far confirms that high ABEC bearings are immediately brought down to the standard ABEC 3 class simply by being used for like a minute on skateboards, because they're not meant to handle torque or axial loads. ABEC has a very clear purpose, just not one relevant to skating or any kind of wheel-sport.
syth406
exactly...but you're looking at at least 25 years of product being sold on the merit of something that has no benefit. These skate brands that people have been so loyal to have been rinsing us all along. wheres the loyalty in that.
VegetaFlex4Fitness Yup.
I use stainless steel for downhill longboarding. Should I switch to ceramic? My metal bearings don't last long
I thought ceramic bearings were designed to combat water damage..
They are cheap, but they don't heat up like metal bearings
Ceramic bearings can still rust well not the balls but the outer and inner race can and ceramic can crack on impact that's why I go with stainless
This helped! I am doing a science project, does anyone know any other videos/ websites I should use to determine which kind of bearing are the best?
Sub español pls):
im from chile
Are ceremic bearings also more weather resistent?
Super reds are pretty good ceramic bearings
Hi Aaron ur probably not goin to read this but I just wanted to say I love ur videos I've only been skating for 3 months and ur are an inspiration my idol keep doin what your doin and stay awesome I'd love to meet you 1 day but I live in the uk but oh stay awesome and keep doin what your doing
Stick to citing the facts because you are not good at explaining them.
"heat causes friction"
nothing terribly wrong with that
+4rr0ws friction causes heat. Stay in school or you will end up like 4rr0ws.
Hieb Obviously it was aimed towards the people reading the comment not 4rr0ws.
Lol 4rr0ws changed his comment, used to say heat causes friction.
Steve Macleod It used to say "nothing terribly wrong with saying heat causes friction" Just removed the redundant part.
Oh the irony of covering for Aaron. Somehow it results in getting mocked by elementary school kids.
aaron do you use bearing spacers
So brandnew bearings doesnt spin much ?? I just got my new bearings and thought that it was broken because it only spin for like half a second 😭
So I should get ceramic bearings for downhilling which will up my speed or... what? Cause my Reds are pretty decent
+KoreanJoker rekoJnaeroK I would for sure go with some ceramics if downhilling, but for cruising youre probably not going to see a big difference..
Dru Stuckel How about 40 - 50 mph?
Uhm, yeah i would buy ceramics, they aren't much more expensive so they're worth a try. If you don't like them or don't see a difference i'd go back to steel.
Dru Stuckel cool cool thanks m8
ye ye
Nice. So what’s the verdict on ceramics after use? I’m an adult newbie and wondering whether to invest.😁
Dont. You will fall much more often. Get only after around a year of practice. Then yes, definately worth it.
man what's the difference between abec 3 ,5,7 and nine? the pressure or the speed'?
what if you use a bearing that is all ceramic, like the outer wal, bearings and the inner wall too???
have you ever looked at roller hockey bearings i think they are the same but they have better than abec9
i am not a skateboarder so i am sorry if this is no help
Which do u recommend for longer usage super reds or bones
ceramic reds barrings?
ceramic.
aaron can you do a kickflip or tre flip going that fast ?
I really want a video about Aaron just cruising around the city(like the ones in ride channel) and show us his neighborhood, some spots in San Francisco, etc.
Aaron i have recently discovered you channel and i love it! im a late beginner for my age, and i was wondering where I could get a not too expensive skateboard that is still quality and wont snap when i attempt an ollie. Or is it just better to fork up the cash for a quality board?
+Daniel M I am a late beginner too.. I forked up the cash because there are a lot of videos on YT saying that the cheap boards are no good. (Such as Walmart.) if you go to a store, try to spin the wheels. You will see they barely spin. This is dangerous. Also they are only meant for up to 110 pounds.
Go to your local skate shop or industrial ride shop
+brendalg4 haha yeah i probably should. itll be better to buy a board that will last!
Some people still go through boards fast.. depends on how you use it. But if you watch games of S K A T E with Walmart boards, they are falling apart in one game. They also make it harder to learn. I am just going from the videos I see.. I have not ever had a cheap board.
+Daniel M Fork up some cash. I promise it will be worth it. Revive boards don't break unless they are really old and used/damaged but even then it takes a lot!
Wow those ceramic are incredible.... I wish I have them
how do u roll and do a trick at the same time?
Actually doing research for a hidden blade build, so far for what I have in mind a skateboard bearing is perfect, is there a way you add resistance so you have you use a little force to rotate it?
I been skating Swiss ceramics for a while in my street set up and just changed them into my Boosted board to see if it'll increase my range or board performance. So far not that noticeable difference because I didn't waste time with the stock Boosted bearings, lol.
Kind of unrelated, but what's the music that plays while Aaron tests out the bearings?
Try out some Bronson's they're ceramic and not that expensive but they're orange and ride so much smoother than my Swiss