Mopar Engine Weights Compared: RB vs. B vs. LA
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- The 508 stroker mopar Engine is nearing completion. What if you wanted to #bigblock swap your #mopar? You’d want to know how much that new engine weighs in comparison to the old one. In this video I compare a 508 RB mopar big block, a 406 B engine big block mopar and a 408 stroker LA 360 smallblock mopar.
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I think I've said it before but the Chevrolet guys need to see this because they always say a big block Chrysler weighs 800 lb
I’ve heard it a hundred times! Even with the added stock heads, iron intake, iron water pump housing, it’d have to be under 700.
Don't complain that there lack of knowledge makes us Mopar guys look even better when the taillights are fading up from in the distance lol. Imagine how bad it would be if we didn't have these heavy slugs up front lol.
Most stock big blocks weigh somewhere around 700 pounds, But not all.... That's air cleaner to oil pan, full of fluid, and stock exhaust manifolds, pulleys, w-pump, etc, etc........ Chrysler being the heaviest, Chevy's being the lightest. And it is only about a 50 pound spread between most of them.... Except for a few.... The 800+ pound elephant, is the Hemi, which weighed 843 pounds top to bottom with factory manifolds and fluid, etc......... Chevy made the lightest factory big block, ever... Even thou most people don't want to hear that, it weighed just 501 pounds..... The ZL1....... Chevy made the next lightest ones as well, L88/L89 427......
@@shvrdavid I'm sure what you said is true but I think they only made 69 of those so they don't really count
@@thomasward4505 They made a few hundred ZL1 engines in total, and made about 150k L88's cars. In 1969 there were just shy of 39,000 L88's installed at the factory, versus 1,200 Hemi's... All were orderable, which makes all of them OEM engines. The L88 vastly outsold performance Hemi's and 440's in 1969, and was about 90 pounds lighter than a 440.... So do the rare Mopar engines not count too? Interesting question, and some like the Hemi sold absurdly low numbers......... Same with the performance version of the 440.....
I'm almost 70 years old and don't think I have ever seen a comparison like this before. Very interesting, Thanks.
Thank you! It definitely wasn’t as much as I expected
"There's no replacement for displacement" rings true here.
Yes sir. I realize anything can made to be Superbad. But it’s a lot easier to get there certain ways.
This just verifies that my oldest brother was correct...He built a 73 Charger factory 318, swapped in a 440...An ex Chrysler engineer told him that he'd have to change the K frame, and the torsion bars, he did measurements, and dropped the 440 right in on the small block K member, with the stock torsion bars, and everything worked out perfectly...lol, so what I take from the engineer is, lay off the twinkies, cuz if you gain over 100 lbs...the car will explode...lmao
Haha! Put a cigarette out in his eye 😂
What does a train driver know about engines anyway? LOL
But in ‘73 the K frame is actually different and the mounts don’t line up… they do in ‘72 though 🧐
@@DeadDodgeGarage It was a 78 440 from a New Yorker, can't remember what mounts he used, but it worked, I was 12 at the time, he worked in the junk yard he built the car from...so he had seen nearly every mount that was available. This occurred back in 1993. I know he didn't change the K frame, because I was his helper...lol
@@DeadDodgeGarage 1973 was a transition year for the B-body K-frames and engine mounts. Many 73 B-bodies did get the newer style, but all E-bodies and most all of the 73 Chargers I've seen have older style. I'm not sure the 73 (or 74?) Chargers ever got the rubber mounted sub-frames. The 4-door B-bodies switched during the 73 model year and I'm not sure about the 2-door Plymouths, but I think all 73 Chargers I've seen have the older style K-frames and the E-bodies never switched and were only made for half of the 74 model year. The 74 Road Runner also was only made for half a year, but the Charger and 2-door Satellite (?) survived to the end of 74. The 4-door B-bodies switched half way into the 73 model year and the 74 4-door B-bodies got the new K-frame. The 75 2-door B-bodies look different from 74, but the 4-door Satellite looked the same as as the older ones through 1978. The newer K-frames went into cars with rubber mounted subframes, rather than welded in rails. I know many Mopar books reference 1973 as the year of the K-frame and engine mount change for the B-bodies, but I don't think the early 73 4-doors changed and it looks like the Charger and possibly the 2-door Plymouth models didn't change in 73.
Thanks for weighing in on this. I was weighting for this video. It was weigh cool. 😂😎
I see whatcha did there lol
Great comparison and surprising numbers.
Thanks brother!
I've always thought there wasn't much difference in the weights especially with aluminum heads. I remember swapping out a 318 to a 383 in a 68' Coronet. The car drove and handled the same as it did before the swap.(had more power though, lol). Big block all the way! Great video!
Thanks Todd!
Awesome man, We had plans for a new motor for the Dart but life happened and had to put it off for a bit. When we get it together we will let you know the weight. Mopars to the front!!!
Thanks brother! I appreciate that!
heck yeah I love the process! every time I watch your videos make me want to work on my 340!!
Excellent! It’s time to try it out
Awesome video Joe! Now I know about what my 451 weighs.🏁🏁
Yes sir! That will be a sweet engine!
Kinda proves it’s always worth it to swap a big block in where there once was a small block. Even if you keep iron heads on the big block, with aluminum intake and water pump it’s just about 30 or 40 pounds heavier than an iron headed small block. The weight penalty is worth having a fatter bore and bigger valves!
And the torque!
@@JustMoparJoe yep! Exactly why I’m swapping a 400 in my daily driver dart. Fat torque curve from the very bottom so I can keep my 3.21 gears and drive past a gas station or two.
I started watching mopar jo about s month ago .I appreciate your time sir.Good info👍👍
Thanks brother!
Fun stuff right there. Thanks Joe. Your videos are fun to watch.
Thanks brother!
Dang thought it would be close but not that dang close, Thanks inspector Joe 👍
Woo hoo!
Always great informative information!!! I figured it would have been much more then that, great to know. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! I was surprised too. A good myth to bust!
Still this proves to me that the best engine to build is the B engine more compact lighter and in stock stroke will rev up faster and stronger overall....now throw in all aluminum versions of all three and any one of them can hold their own weather at the drags or the street. And then weight will really be fun to see... And you used cast and forged steel cranks with success proving that having a cast crank is no reason not to build a good hot rod motor. But for ultimate strength the forged is the way to go. Great stuff Joe thank you for doing all the hard work..
Thanks John! You definitely get what I’m saying. Imagine that guy that’s scared to big block swap because of the weight!
⚖️ 😀
Yeah. I don't know about that. I've heard this tale for years now. No one has ever stepped up to prove differently. Lighter? How much really? Compact? Yeah. The heads are what 1/2"/ 3/4" shorter? Whoopie. Rev faster? I'll tell you what, my stroked 440 revs plenty fast. So much so, I had to put a rev limiter on it to keep it in check. It'll easily go to 7,000 rpm very quickly. My limit is my hydraulic roller lifters. Who really needs 7,000 when you have so much more torque available than a B block can produce.
Revving faster really has to to do with your tuning capabilities. My stock Six Pack worked fine for stock tuning from the first time I put it on in '91. But when I really got into it a few years later, It became a quick revving monster.
Stock vs. newer quality materials can make a big difference too. My forged JE pistons are way lighter than those cast stockers that were 1950's tech. My "I Beam" Scat rods are way lighter and stronger than the 50's tech ones. Don't even talk about the ridiculously heavy "Six Pack Rods". And my Scat crank is way stronger and lighter than any old school stock crank.
Nope. There's not much of a difference between a B block vs. a RB block.
@@KurtfromLaQuinta they all have their place for sure. Build what you have. It seems the B blocks fit easier in an A body, but with 19 pounds difference, it’s all good. The big block makes enough torque for the whole family.
Thanks for the info,i feel better about my 73 charger with the big block, always wondered about the weight difference because it was a 318 car originally nice to know not much different in the weight
Absolutely. There’s a dude who 318 swapped his 400 car on Facebook. He even bought edelbrock aluminum heads for it. The mission statement was to make more power than the stock 400 and take sooo much weight off the nose. I think he lost 100+ potential horsepower and didn’t gain much otherwise.
Joe, thanks for all the informative vids, like this one, that you do. I was planning on staying SB with my '68 Barracuda as I really thought the weight penalty would be too much for a decent handling street car. Now, with your testing, I see that is not the case and I plan to go back to my BB roots. Plus, a BB in an A-body is just cool!
Absolutely! Glad to help!
Very cool video. That's great info to have when planning a build. Thanks Joe.
Thanks buddy! I never would have guessed!
I officially had my mind changed about the LA vs B/RB weight debate ...when I drove these cars back in the 1980's , I just assumed it was true .
No reason to deny a big mopar swap👍
Awesome!
If you compare a factory 440 and a factory 340 with stock cast iron heads, intakes and cast iron manifolds, the 440 is much more portly.
Excellent video. Very useful information. I'll definitely keep all of this in mind aluminum heads are really cool. Flow really well and those Indy heads are probably with blow just about everything else out of the water would love to see that. Stroker 440 running. See what kind of times it puts down
Thanks brother
Very interesting between the B and RB. I did weight research online between a stock 318 and a 400 with Eddie top end and aluminum pump and housing on paper before i put the 470 stroker together for my 68 Dart. Seemed like i came up with 17 or 18# difference in the engines. Although my engine and radiator were heavier I used a lighter steering box and moved the battery to the trunk so the nose is actually lighter than original. But now im going to do A/C so who knows?? LOL
For sure! Power and torque beat weight anyway!
Thanks. This helps as I’m contemplating a 400 swap in my 70 Duster.
Absolutely! You definitely won’t regret it. These tti big tubes are tight. I may try hedmans next time. Lol
@@JustMoparJoe I picked up the engine today. Already have an old school Edelbrock TM6 for it.
Thx Joe this is great info.
Thanks buddy!
Fun stuff !!!
Thanks Tim!
I swapped out a small block for a Big block, because the distributor is in the front of the engine and the intake can be removed without draining the rad. Along with getting more low rpm torque. Thank you for the video.
Joe I could have said I watched this video and commented.
I cannot find the comment.
So I watched again and I am commenting.
Nice video and good information.
Remember I said 536 was my guess.
Always good information.
Take care, Ed.
Thanks Ed! You were spot on!
Thank you for the #'s Joe!
Aluminum definitely beats iron! I will weigh a small block with aluminum heads someday
I knew there was a reason my handling didn't change from the cast iron 360 to 413 i put in my Duster.
It’s a close race!
Yes it’s interesting! That’s all we hear is how the 440 is so heavy. This proves it. I hope the kids are watching.😂😂😂👍✋🏻
Haha! Say it louder for the ones in the back
Great video. Thank you for taking the time and effort to make this.
Glad it was helpful!
Well done.
Thanks brother
Great information, thanks for sharing, subscribed.
Thank you!
Great info. thank you for doing this.
Thanks brother. Big block swap the world!
Ha ha , you said your crane weight measuring tool was going to make your Canadian friends happy, well Joe, metric was changed over in the year 1974 so if anything America has caught up to the REST OF THE WORLD FINALLY. Any who,, i enjoyed this video and feel good about my future RB install with 440 source parts galore in my 69 Ca-rude-a fastback. Peace from a subscriber in Canadastan waiting until we get rid of our present Crime Minister Waterhole and his poliwog's.
Thanks brother. I got to sit down with Brent from Mongrel’s Garage for a meal. Very good guy who gave me a lot of insight into Canadian politics and life.
@@JustMoparJoe Yes i hope all of north America can be made great again by next year. Hope you understood why i called him Waterhole? It's a french to english translation of Trudeau and now for fun translate my family name into english.
Good stuff, Joe, but I am waiting for the weigh in of the all aluminum 572 build.... With a day at the dyno included!!! ;)
Haha! I’ll try to weigh Rick Seeman’s hemi. I think he has his own scale now!
It'll be lighter than a Slant 6!
Hey! I almost have the same engine combo in my truck I am running a Six Pack.
It performs very well. And it does have A LOT OF TORQUE !
And is it fun to drive on the street.
Thanks for sharing this info about the weight.
Sounds like a blast! This 508 goes into a d100 truck. Should be exciting
Very informative Joe! Thanks for sharing!!!👍🏽
Thanks brother! Definitely was an eye opener
I dropped the 440 out of my 72 Dart and installed a built 360 not because of its weight, but because of its ease to work on.
I think with the right headers, it’s about the same. I do like how far the bellhousing bolts are on my 400 now, versus the 360. I don’t think I have the easy headers 😂
@@JustMoparJoe I had TTI headers on the 440. The torsion bars went through them! Changing the plugs was a 2 hour job and replacing the starter was an impossibility!! I’m so much happier with the 360. Sold the 440 to my neighbor for his 72 Barracuda build. Everyone wins!!
@@jumpinjojo With the Indy heads the plugs are canted out from the stock position. They point to the intake valves. Away from the exhaust ports. If nothing else... they are easier to change than the small blocks. And, of course, let's talk about distributor placement. I changed to Big because it was easier to get to the distributor. Really? 😜
I ran and wore out three 360's in my truck I ordered and bought in '73. Then switched to a Big Block in '91. I'm on my 3rd Big Block now. Once you go Big... why would go back to small? 🙃
Oh... they have these things called "mini starters" that make changing starters a breeze.
New tech on old tech is way better.
I always thought those big blocks were heavier than that . After I get truck # 1 done I’m gonna want a truck or a car with a big block in it .
That sounds like a plan!
Ive avoided swapping because of the plain lack of room in an A-body engine bay. I dont want to hack up my fenderwells to fit headers or have room to change plugs.
I would like to have the power of a high compression 452 (400 block w/440 crank) stroker on tap though..
Check it out! They say the Hedman headers are a direct fit for the A body cars. I bought a set and never got to try them. But my plugs are easier now than they were with my 408, or nearly. But the bellhousing bolts are a breeze!
I'm curious how the Gen 3 hemi stacks up weight wise!
For sure! We have to consider the miles of wiring added In the mix. I’ll have one to pull out and measure soon!
It's really hard to beat the strength of a second generation Big Block Chrysler. After all,... look what the Top Fuel engines are basically running to this day. The 3rd generation Hemi's are fairly tough. But just look at the design differences of the two blocks. In Big Block Chrysler's, the crank is encased by the block. Small blocks, which the 3rd Gen is really... the crank hangs out from the crank centerline down.
When one does a "4 bolt main" on a 2nd Gen RB/ Hemi, you "cross bolt" the mains. Way more stronger than putting the bolts next to each other. Ala BM engines. They can't do it because the crank hangs out low from the block.
The B/RB blocks are like a granite rock. They are Indestructible.
Good video, now we know!
Yes sir!
@@JustMoparJoe too bad Chrysler didn’t go with a performance truck style head so the plugs would be super easy to get to like an LA
Wee HAAA! Thanks Joe.😎👌
You bet!
Good to know. Thanks Joe.
Thanks Mark!
Aluminum block if you can swing it, or rack and pinion drop steering box motor plates use motor plate,
Thanks for sharing. I’ve got way too many cast iron blocks to swap now
I actually would not have ever guessed. My assumption was always 200lb more.
With iron heads, intake, and exhaust manifolds, 200lb more would be about right.
I had the racier version of each. Those small block iron heads weigh a ton
@@JustMoparJoe My Pontiac heads are quite heavy in iron, much lighter in aluminum, usually aluminum heads for my engines flow better than heavily ported iron heads too, so making power is easier to some extent. Porting is very beneficial.. if its done right.
@@SweatyFatGuy I’d like to hear your opinion on thermal efficiency in stock compression engines(8/1 or so) Iron heads vs. Aluminum. I can only find one tech article on it, and it was using 10.8/1 static compression.
@@JustMoparJoe it depends on what fuel you're using and what you want from the engine (power/mileage, etc). With gasoline you need to shed as much heat as possible, otherwise you get ping/knock, and that kills power and bearings/ring lands. Retaining the heat helps the fuel vaporize, but also causes detonation. 8:1 will run on 87 octane easily, but in small engines it costs lots of power.
My 455s still make incredible torque, they just make more when you feed them more air and compress it harder. That big stroke and long runners overcome the compression limits easier. Smaller engines like my 340 or a 302 start to really suck with 87 octane compression, increasing it requires more octane to stay out of knock.
Gasoline requires a tight balancing act, too lean it goes hot and breaks parts, too rich it goes hot and washes cylinders while diluting/thinning the oil and it costs power.
If you want mileage, you want as much compression as you can get with the fuel you're using, same with power when you're not increasing airflow. Gasoline holds you back quit a bit in that area, because it likes to light when it feels like it.
Iron heads retain heat longer and shed it slower as a result, thats why aluminum can run higher static compression, it dissipates heat faster. They make the balancing act between power and knock even tighter. Thats why most modern engines have aluminum heads, they can squeeze the fuel harder and not get into knock. That increases power and mileage.
Ethanol is a different animal, you want the heat to stay in the engine because it will vaporize the fuel more completely, and since its a single component fuel (unless you add gasoline which is made up of several different substances) so it has only one boiling point. As ethanol vaporizes it cools the air and metal around it, pulling the heat out as it goes from liquid to vapor. It does this much better than gasoline does.
So you need to use the coolant temp to keep an ethanol engine warm enough. Also rich cools it off, while making more power (to a certain point around 7:1 AFR) lean makes less power unlike gasoline, but it doesn't want to burn holes in things or knock like gasoline does. Forced induction doesn't like lean no matter what fuel you're running.
With alcohol fuels the iron helps the engines retain the heat, and its beneficial to them for mileage and power. Gasoline you want the fuel cold, ethanol can be used cold like gasoline or heated to the point it vaporizes instantly when it comes out of the injectors, usually 200F in the fuel rails... and it still cools the intake tract and air charge. Heat the fuel and you pick up lots of efficiency, its like Smokey Yunick's engine. I'll show that later when I get the 76 C10 running with its 6.0.
If you're stuck with gasoline, iron heads will limit static compression and timing advance because of the knock sensitivity. So for some kind of racing the octane you can run will dictate the compression ratio and advance. You will need more coolant system capacity as well, trying to shed some of the heat.
Gasoline wastes more than 80% of its energy as heat, because it technically burns slower than ethanol, and less completely. Its still burning but not really expanding when the exhaust valve starts to open. The duration of the power stroke is relatively short, its only a few degrees of crank rotation.
Gasoline also has a sharp spike when it ignites that tapers off very quickly, so its harder on parts like pistons, and rod bearings as a result. Detonation is when that spike comes too early in crank rotation.
Now if you want to retain the heat, iron is VERY good at that, and there are times you want heat in the engine, like mileage, emissions, longevity, boiling condensation out of the crankcase oil, and getting the multiple components of gasoline to vaporize before ignition occurs.
If you want all out power, keeping it cool to cold on gasoline will net more power. Cold coolant, cold fuel, cold air, cold engine parts, because you are going to be adding lots of heat into the engine, and more heat makes gasoline want to ignite on its own rather than when the spark tells it to.
If you build two low compression engines, one with aluminum heads one with iron, that flow the same amount, same compression, valve sizes, etc, the iron head will make slightly more power on 87 octane than the aluminum head will, in theory. Lots of variables... but the heat retention will kinda help it. It will still want the coldest air possible, and cold fuel, but that is trying to deal with the limits of gasoline more than what the heads are made of.
Start bumping up against that knock threshold and aluminum starts walking away from iron.
Other than weight and added airflow from aluminum heads, iron heads can get better mileage and make roughly the same power on ethanol, because the problem with detonation comes at a drastically higher static compression ratio compared to gasoline.
Special request...any chance you could get a stock slant 6 weight to compare to? In process of putting an aluminum accessory’d 440 where one used to be...
I do have one around! I’ll see what I can do
Slant 6 is 475 lbs
@@stephenkeebler732 Ive seen that number thrown around, would like to see proof.
Joe that scale is flashing lb when you turn it on. I say if you push those buttons right it will turn into pounds.
I just saw that! 😂
Maybe hold the power button for 3-5 seconds and maybe that will change from metric to pounds
@@dinadaughtry8993 I’ll play with it some more. I have so much work I need to accomplish, typically when I need the scale, it’s faster to just convert and move on. Mine didn’t come with any English instructions 😂
Try pushing the middle button down for one second. There is a very similar scale branded AnyLOAD, but the buttons are labeled differently. I found a manual online. I actually like the metric system because I weigh less and my tool is longer!
Great video.Thank you
Thanks brother! I was surprised!
I weighed my big block in a more runnable condition than you did. I included a mini starter and the pulleys and the carburetor but did not include any kind of exhaust and I believe I got a 545 pounds
That’s much better than what the internet tells us!
Next you should weigh the A-727 And then the RB 727 ,, For me I would relocate the Battery to the trunk and get a lightweight race battery. then swap to nice set of Aluminum heads that did not kil compression ratio next the water pump issue, maybe when you swap you swap to the New aluminum water pump hi flow That was stock after 1970 then get aluminum radiator to match that .and run cooler temperatures.and the only thing to help the small block is a set of excellent cylinder heads, like the Victor340 's but the cost will be higher of course
Good points!
Not to forget, the LA's C/G is noticeably lower and rearward, esp. vs a RB. Jus' sayin', not trying to start anything, and I am much more into canyon carving than 1/4-mile.
360 block is by far the heaviest LA.
Thanks brother. All good considerations
Joe! You have to stop passive aggressively notifying “small block” guys theres zero reason to not to go big block. I mean, when has anybody ever complained about having “too many” cubes and torque????
Haha! They’ll buy up all the big blocks 🤕
How much would aluminum heads drop the 408 weight?
I’ve heard people say 25 pounds per side. I can’t confirm, but will someday x
2 words…Big…Block.
For the win!
Definitely favoring the B engine more and more.
I’m there. Thanks brother
Very Interesting Indeed 👍 also the amount of Bling ! 🙈
Haha! It should fire off soon enough!
I just wanna know when can I send my 400 down for you to build it lol...😂😂😂💯😎
Haha! I’ll get you on the list for 2025
@@JustMoparJoe WHAT!!! 😂😂😂 I was thinking more like 6 months from now....🤔🤔🤔🤔😂😂😂😂
@@218422100 the secret is out! I’ve got 3-4 in line now
@@JustMoparJoe i figured it wouldn't take long. You do an outstanding job and are very meticulous in your builds and I would be extremely happy to put one of your motors in my ride. I found a 1977 400 for $500 but I might be able to get it for $400. Its totally complete motor. I'd want it built like your 400 but without the aluminum heads. Just plan on using the stock heads and see what we'd get.
@@218422100 should be a good one!
What do you think a aluminum headed small block would weigh? 480?
I heard it’s a 50 pound difference from the iron heads.
👍💪
Thanks brother
So...ive been a B/RB guy all my life. BUT... With the easy availibility of new Hemis these days, their power potential, and the ability to carburate them...
Wonder what a carbureted 5.7 weighs???
I’m going to actually unswap the hemi from my challenger someday. It will get a big block!
@@JustMoparJoe 👍sure...and dont get me wrong...love the look and power and sound of a big block!!! But the.power potential and availability is just so good for the new engines... Hard to choose!!
@@wheels-n-tires1846 If you build a RB Big Block like a 3 Gen is put together, one can obtain similar results. With a much beefier bottom end. Ask me how I know this.
So the 512 stroker weighs around 534 as well
Probably less because it’s a low deck engine 👍🏼
I have to say I am surprised
No doubt!
I could be wrong, but 19 pounds doesn't seem like a lot to me.
I alway struggle with metric. I hate it when I'm working on something that has standard and metric.
That’s not much at all! People whine about how heavy big blocks are. I think you would never sense an extra 19 pounds
@@JustMoparJoe for me 19lbs is the difference between fitting in the cage or not, and wearing pants.... Aluminum head LA would only be about 50lbs lighter, give or take, for the difference in torque, the weight is nothing to be overly concerned about.
Ok but what does a aluminum headed la or magnum weigh
I will find out someday and make a video!
What is the 508 going in Joe ? truck ?
Yea sir. It’s going in a customers 80’s d100, street/strip truck.
Now put aluminum heads and intake on the 408, SMH
Definitely had aluminum intake on the 408. I’ve never owned a set of aluminum heads for a small block. I would figure 50-60 pounds less.
Measure the torque too. 🙃
⚖️🐟🏆!!
Well said!
Zoomo
Dude if you hold tare or mode button it's going to be lbs its on the bloody screen read ya structuons or play with it U think it's there to tease you son U need more learning
I saw that pop up. I’ll play with it more. I’ll play with the scale more instead of answering comments 🫡
Joe, this was great weight info. My personal experience with a 383. I was amazed at the weight of the factory 383 complete motor. A 25HP Kubota would not lift it onto the trailer. I had to rely on the Oak Tree and come-a-long, i didn't have a weight scale. Something I am going to need to get. Weight matters for racing. It's interesting to the rest of us.
Thanks buddy! I definitely believe in the aluminum heads, water pump, and intake. That’s a huge help
I weighed a set of ported iron maxwedge heads compared to a set of aluminum big block chevy heads. The max were lighter.