This is what happens when you send your club's to a Professional... Things get done the right way the first time. Also I think Jim being a SouthPaw himself really helped in understanding the problem I was having. Can't wait to give them rip! Big Thank You to Jim & Robin🤝🙏
Mrs. McGolf; On this video there was offered a switch blade Divot tool. I would like very much to get TWO. One for my golfing Son and One for myself. Thanks Russ.
Ha, I just did this to my charity-shop irons on Friday (along with trimming 1/2" off the butts to make them standard lengths). To help keep things vertical at the club-head end I set a carpenter's speed square upright and made sure the grooves were parallel to it before tightening my clamp. Worked pretty good, I think, but it's been so rainy here since then that I haven't had a chance to hit 'em yet.
I’ve been re-gripping my own clubs for awhile now. I use double-sided tape with WD-40…..read somewhere it works as a good solvent. Never had any issues using it. Dries pretty quick. Thanks for the video Jim. Love the pencil sharpener on the divot tool. 👍
Love the content Jim and Robyn. I had the same issues with ribbed grips and the closing of the face. I just recently (this past weekend) added a rib to my grips at 10* open (5:30ish) so that when I take my grip(strong) it keeps the face square.
As a relatively new golfer, I find myself LOVING the ribbed grips on a driver. I am seriously considering switching my primary driver over to a ribbed grip, along with my woods. When correctly installed, it helps me correct my grip. My only issue is that I would need to commit to one setting with my HZDRS Smoke shaft. Obviously, ribs can't be adjusted, if you change the setting on your driver. My woods/hybrids are all fixed, so maybe I will have those done first.
As a hobbiest clubmaker, I really enjoy your videos. I have a question for you. In one of your videos about grips, you remarked that the grip was REALLY tacky and I need to know what grip it was? If I recall, we could actually hear the noise made when you were taking your hand off. Also, all of a sudden when installing a grip, they are getting stuck halfway down the shaft and it becomes VERY difficult to slide the grip on. Sometimes I have to cut the grip off and try again. I use lots of solvent and have even tried to heat the grip before installing it to make it more flexible. Any idea why?
Hi Jim,what would you do if you were regripping a full set and the diameter of the Shaft on the woods and wedges were different from the irons to get them all the same size.Thanks.
if you know the shaft is smaller then add tape. if is it larger you have an option to just install it as the size will likely be un noticed or stretch it if it is rubber.
I am going to regrip myself for the first time. Your video is excellent for me to learn from. I am going to put some Winn Dri-Tac 2.0 on some Mavrik Max Irons and wondered if I point any alignment lines to the white lines on the grooves or straight into the hosel. By the way what happened to your door?
Great video Jim! I have a question but I am saving it for next Mondays show but I do have one for today....What happened to your wooden door behind you?
@@McGolf Do you measure the shaft butt with micrometer or look up the shaft specs before installing a specific core size grip....? If you installed a 60 grip on a 58 shaft with only double stick tape, is there any concern of the grip coming off during a swing?
@@jacklabrador6981 It will make the grip just slightly smaller, If using double sided tape you should have no worries of it coming off. You add one additional layer of tape. to being to standard if desired.
Question for you on the build up tape - I have done that for many years and use 5" of tape (which matches your finger to mid-palm for my hands), but when I add layers I offset them by ¾"-1" so that I do not create a bump in the grip since the shaft tapers - have you ever done that? I have added as much as 4 and maybe 5 layers
The label is a good marker but as you said it needs to be on straight that’s why I align first then look at the other indicators. These are tells for a quality build
This is what happens when you send your club's to a Professional... Things get done the right way the first time. Also I think Jim being a SouthPaw himself really helped in understanding the problem I was having. Can't wait to give them rip! Big Thank You to Jim & Robin🤝🙏
Yeaaah Robbie's clubs. He was talking about these on Corrine's SNL this weekend.
Good job there Jim 👍👍👍
Yes, He did a great job. 15 irons, all perfectly straight. 👏👏👏👏👏
@@8Eglock22 great job 👍👍👍
Mrs. McGolf; On this video there was offered a switch blade Divot tool. I would like very much to get TWO. One for my golfing Son and One for myself. Thanks Russ.
I love the work and knowledge you pass on to your subscribers but I must digress, I wish my tally wacker was that straight !
Nice video Jim, As a right hander, I find putting grips on a Lefties set, much more tricky. I always thought it was me, but maybe not 🤣🤣
Ha, I just did this to my charity-shop irons on Friday (along with trimming 1/2" off the butts to make them standard lengths). To help keep things vertical at the club-head end I set a carpenter's speed square upright and made sure the grooves were parallel to it before tightening my clamp. Worked pretty good, I think, but it's been so rainy here since then that I haven't had a chance to hit 'em yet.
I’ve been re-gripping my own clubs for awhile now. I use double-sided tape with WD-40…..read somewhere it works as a good solvent. Never had any issues using it. Dries pretty quick.
Thanks for the video Jim. Love the pencil sharpener on the divot tool. 👍
Love the content Jim and Robyn. I had the same issues with ribbed grips and the closing of the face. I just recently (this past weekend) added a rib to my grips at 10* open (5:30ish) so that when I take my grip(strong) it keeps the face square.
Is all about how you hold the club for certain
As a relatively new golfer, I find myself LOVING the ribbed grips on a driver. I am seriously considering switching my primary driver over to a ribbed grip, along with my woods. When correctly installed, it helps me correct my grip. My only issue is that I would need to commit to one setting with my HZDRS Smoke shaft. Obviously, ribs can't be adjusted, if you change the setting on your driver. My woods/hybrids are all fixed, so maybe I will have those done first.
Thanks Jim now I know!
Great video. What tape is that, in see you don't have to peel off a backing?
As a hobbiest clubmaker, I really enjoy your videos. I have a question for you. In one of your videos about grips, you remarked that the grip was REALLY tacky and I need to know what grip it was? If I recall, we could actually hear the noise made when you were taking your hand off. Also, all of a sudden when installing a grip, they are getting stuck halfway down the shaft and it becomes VERY difficult to slide the grip on. Sometimes I have to cut the grip off and try again. I use lots of solvent and have even tried to heat the grip before installing it to make it more flexible. Any idea why?
Good stuff Jim. Thank you for the tips. By the way, did you do any teaching in Nuc School? Love your instructor techniques.
Not at nuke school but plenty of times and places after.
Hi Jim, is the tape you use ordinary masking tape? I have always used double sided tape .
Hi Jim,what would you do if you were regripping a full set and the diameter of the
Shaft on the woods and wedges were different from the irons to get them all
the same size.Thanks.
if you know the shaft is smaller then add tape. if is it larger you have an option to just install it as the size will likely be un noticed or stretch it if it is rubber.
I am going to regrip myself for the first time. Your video is excellent for me to learn from. I am going to put some Winn Dri-Tac 2.0 on some Mavrik Max Irons and wondered if I point any alignment lines to the white lines on the grooves or straight into the hosel. By the way what happened to your door?
The mavrik has a bunch of offset, go straight down the shaft then check directly after install. Keep an eye on the under listing of the Winn grip
5 iron
Thank you for answering my post. I hope that 5 iron wasn't thrown at you
Great video Jim! I have a question but I am saving it for next Mondays show but I do have one for today....What happened to your wooden door behind you?
A five iron and attitude
@@McGolf LOL
Great content Jim. Is that normal packing tape for the build up? Stuff you would get at any store?
Brown Kraft packing tape 2” and should available at most shipping places
Great video Jim. Is there any issue using 60 core grips on 58 shafts or vice versa? Do you need to build up the 58 shaft to install 60 grips?
60 on 58 will result in a slightly
Smaller grip were the opposite is true for 58 to 60. One layer needed to the first to a std size
@@McGolf Do you measure the shaft butt with micrometer or look up the shaft specs before installing a specific core size grip....? If you installed a 60 grip on a 58 shaft with only double stick tape, is there any concern of the grip coming off during a swing?
@@jacklabrador6981 It will make the grip just slightly smaller, If using double sided tape you should have no worries of it coming off. You add one additional layer of tape. to being to standard if desired.
@@McGolf Thanks Jim, love your channel....great info!
Question for you on the build up tape - I have done that for many years and use 5" of tape (which matches your finger to mid-palm for my hands), but when I add layers I offset them by ¾"-1" so that I do not create a bump in the grip since the shaft tapers - have you ever done that? I have added as much as 4 and maybe 5 layers
That movement works great for multiple layers such as the 4 and5 you put on no worries. For less than that the other in better imo
who knew golf club repair could be so fun and interesting...wait I guess I'm part of the 1%
I'm surprised you'd consider the shaft label when aligning.
You're assuming the person that put that on did it right in the first place.
The label is a good marker but as you said it needs to be on straight that’s why I align first then look at the other indicators. These are tells for a quality build