It's amazing work folk like Stonegate are doing reproducing stuff like this. It would be brilliant if we were able to get replacement parts for every old toy.
He's back to save the galaxy again! Buck Rogers with the all-new and imrpoved starfighter! Real working lights at the touch of a button! Lasers and engines really work! The new Buck Rogers Starfighter! Action figures sold seperately - by Mego!
@@toypolloi Check out Candy Labs products namely the Colonial Viper and the Cylon Raider ships for the Battlestar Galactica 3 and 3/4 inches line of toys...
Wow. Just.... wow. It may not have been your favourite ship, but as a child I loved series one of Buck, and so wanted the toy range. The figures lacked the detail of Star Wars , but there was still a certain, je ne sais quoi, cool quoi, with the range. The intro was an amazing bonus and how you create this wonderful ship is dumbfounding. I would love such a ship in my small toy collection. Bravo sir!!!
Had one of these when I was a kid & the Draconian Fighter as well. I played with them until they broke & then I played with the parts. LOL Wishing I still had them now. One day & you've shown me somethings to do when that day comes. Awesome job & thanks a ton! Looking forward to the next part.
If you have some self adhesive silver foil, use that on the inside of the front nacelles to stop the light bleeding. Or even normal aluminium foil glued in place. That's a great bit of work, though. It's a toy I've never seen in the flesh. The same with the figures. Nice one.
Awesome modification. One suggestion is to paint the entire inside black. Those laser leds are so bright you can tell where the paint stops. Also I'm sure you can find some sort of cream paint and paint the laser pods. What would be pretty cool is some sort of white landing light in the front and sounds from the show. Sound boards are small and there seems like plenty of room inside. Keep up the great work, doing more mods would be a great addition to your content.
Awesome job. Wow, the engines light up so well. The interstellar modeler would be delighted if he would see this modification. Really really cool. Thanks Dave for sharing this. Keep up the good work. Stay safe. Stay healthy. The human malware is still around.
Fantastic job, as always. I want to send you every piece of my G.I. Joe collection to illuminate! Thanks for the video. It gives me hope that us novices can do some of these things, with your guidance.
I always enjoy your videos and usually learn an interesting tip or two. For the laser LED's, try putting them inside small tubes - that will help block the light from the rear and sides of the LED and only allow it forward towards the laser light pipes and nose cones.
Fantastic as usual, Dave! Would be interesting to see a complete cleanup and sticker creation/replacement of the Rover too. Thanks for another great video. :)
I really really really wish I hadn't sold my Starfighter hull a few months ago :( I'd be Toy Polloi-ing it up right now! Very impressive stuff. I think the Buck Starfighter may well be my favourite classic single-pilot spaceship.
Not bad. Would have liked to see you fit some electronics similar in concept to the ones used in the 70's star wars ships, with a steady-on red laser light, and electric motor with buzz strip for laser sound, all activated via push button. The click switch works well for the engine lights, but firing lasers really deserve a trigger.
This is really coming along. It’s amazing what a few lights can do. And the switches ad visual interest to the bottom. I can’t wait to see what’s next. Great job.
Mr. Dave, Once again....you bring Industrial Light and Magic 101 to make Yestertoys Brand new and ultra realistic!!! Cheers my friend, Thank you so very much!!! ;)
You might consider using some heat shrink over the sides of the red LEDs, to help cut the aft-ward light bleed. Also, if you wanted to soften/diffuse the light coming out of the engine cowlings, you could try placing a translucent plastic sheet cut to the size of the opening and hot-glued in front of the bulb. (:P)
Instead of painting black, may I suggest using aluminum tape? not only can you use it to prevent the light to bleed , you can also use it to focus to the light pipes :)
@@toypolloi Heat Shrink would work, and you seem to have plenty on hand for your wiring... be mindful of not over heating the bulb while shrinking it! (:P)
Nice, Tim. Thanks. I particularly loved the little sidebar with you adding those 3-D printed parts to the land rover. I confess I don't remember that vehicle appearing in the Buck Rogers show ... maybe it was just for that scene in the pilot film where Buck and TWIKI venture into atomic-blasted Old Chicago. I do, however, remember the Land Ram from "Battlestar Galactica," which Buck Rogers would certainly have reused if they needed to.
i THINK the Land Rover sidepanels (along with the pointy front, etc) are basically to disguise the fact that it was the same base vehicle as the Colonial Landram from Battlestar Galactica (which wasn't the only time the shows swapped items. The penultimate episode of Galactica 80 gives Troy and Dillon the Buck Rogers blasters, instead of the Colonial Blasters they always used previously. There were other ship models that were redressed from Battlestar and used in Buck Rogers - including the model and full size prop of Buck's own Ranger 1, which started as a bright orange shuttle from the planet Terra in Battlestar Galactica.
Thanks. Part three is filmed and will be up early next year. Part four is in the works and will be the last on this project. Just a few more pieces to finish and the ship is done. Cheers
Engines do look great. Something is just a bit off on those lasers though. Not sure if it is the bleed or the blink speed. Maybe a flickery red wld be better? Or a very fast blink
A popular hack in the guitar world, is to use coffee to "yellow" white plastic replacement parts so that they match the vintage parts. There are how to videos on youtube that show the results.
@@toypolloi I did give a suggestion to prevent light-bleed through bright-coloured plastics and that's by painting the inside a mid-grey colour and then painting over it with the original colour and there we go - problem solved!
Lovely job Dave. I was wondering how you would mount the battery. Velcro! Lol! Excellent . Can't wait to see the final video and how this one turns out.
Hi Dave if you want to stop a lot of that light bleed from the red LED covering with a piece of heat shrink so all that showing is the front piece that's my help a lot more. Ralph Cooling
If i may, a top light blocking tip would be, white spray primer, followed by a black spray primer and another white layer over the black. The first white coat stops discolouring on the outside and the top white layer keeps the visible interior areas clean white.
Two thoughts. The first one is if it would have helped if you had aplied the plastic weld to the engins befor you drilled them. Maybe that would have made it easier, atleast it would be worth trying on some pices for the future. =) The second one is if it woul help if you simply painted the lazer led bulb as well. The only part that needs to be unpainted would be the one that provides the ligt for the leggo pices. Anyway I think it would help batteling the bleed problem. If not the paint should be easy to remove from the led.
You're better off using a soldering iron with a needle tip to pilot holes in PLA, as the heat ensures the 3d print stays together, then you can drill the hole to your required diameter.
Thanks. I will try that in future. I haven't really drilled into 3D prints before like this. So I just thought I would go for it and see what happened. With a bit of plastic weld on it's all held quite firmly.
@@toypolloi in truth the reason it is weak is because the printer has to print across a large gap and so it has very little to bond to as it cools. It shouldn't really happen with too many prints, it's just a quirk of the printing process.
I have had trouble with customs in the past and I'd be interested to know what seemed to be the problem you had? Was it the price of the parts being of a value above £15 before P&P? That used to be the thing I learned to avoid when ordering stuff from overseas. Great customization. Hope your black interior paint is easier than you think.
I have trouble often. I did do a video on it. th-cam.com/video/_Y5vkNI8Zl8/w-d-xo.html Now I always fight it. And yet again with this one they refunded the money. I think they just assume people won't bother.
They can take a while to do depending on how complicated they are. For this one I had the idea ages ago, but wasn't sure how I would go about it. Gary from the Geek Force helped me re-write the script to be Toy Polloi related, and John Faust very kindly recorded the VO for me. Then it took about a day to put it all together and make it work. I have a play list where you can watch them all. th-cam.com/video/U4QgUdpmalM/w-d-xo.html
It's such a shame that Mego scaled the Thunderfighter down a little. If it had just been a bit bigger, they could have fitted two figures in there, as on TV, the fighter was a two-man ship. Apart from the four-seater version they sometimes used.
If that's all it takes to time travel, sign me up for TH-cam video creator! Wait, if I'm watching this am I 500 years in the future too? Thanks for the skip Toy Polloi, off to see what the future looks like.
On a related note, the TV show has just been released on blu ray by Kino Lorber in the U.S. and is apparently superior to the Australian release from a few years back. Certainly the feature film is now in glorious HD whereas it was only SD in the Oz (and subsequently U.K.) version! Unfortunately (at least for me) this new set appears to be region-locked...
Thanks for the tip! Been watching it on MeTV over here in the states and you can tell it's been fully restored. Wonder if they've been using the Kino version?
What millimeter is the black led and where can I get them?I can't find them anywhere in the U.S.What millimeter are the flashing leds?What are those led fitting pieces called and where can I get them in the U.S.?
@@toypolloi I found a light kit on ebay,thanks.Unfortuneatly it didn't come with any flashing red led lights.Would you know what size those lights are?I'm going to be adding sound to my starfighter,when you push the switch for the laser cannons the firing sound come on besides the lights.When you push the button for the engines you hear the engines and some cockpit console computers.Thanks again for your help and I hope to hear from you soon.
Couldn't you just spray the inside of the fuselage with white paint until it's thick enough to block the light....???? If that worked then you wouldn't see the dark of the black paint through the thin plastic....
It's amazing work folk like Stonegate are doing reproducing stuff like this. It would be brilliant if we were able to get replacement parts for every old toy.
If more vehicles were like this, I would have been a happier kid.
and adult
I love when you do modify vehicles with lights and other mods to toys.
My absolute favorite toy as a kid and still my favorite ship design as an adult.
As someone who is currently working through the tv series I love this 👍
He's back to save the galaxy again! Buck Rogers with the all-new and imrpoved starfighter! Real working lights at the touch of a button! Lasers and engines really work! The new Buck Rogers Starfighter! Action figures sold seperately - by Mego!
That intro!! I want to go offline and listen to the opening titles song for real now! 😆
Wow. This is a lot more exciting than I originally thought it would be! I love it!
Glad you like it!
@@toypolloi Check out Candy Labs products namely the Colonial Viper and the Cylon Raider ships for the Battlestar Galactica 3 and 3/4 inches line of toys...
Your opening was excellent, Dave! I always loved the original Buck Rogers opening.
Awesome customizing of the Starfighter.😎
Wow. Just.... wow. It may not have been your favourite ship, but as a child I loved series one of Buck, and so wanted the toy range. The figures lacked the detail of Star Wars , but there was still a certain, je ne sais quoi, cool quoi, with the range. The intro was an amazing bonus and how you create this wonderful ship is dumbfounding. I would love such a ship in my small toy collection. Bravo sir!!!
Dave,
Watching you work is therapeutic my friend👍😁
Had one of these when I was a kid & the Draconian Fighter as well. I played with them until they broke & then I played with the parts. LOL Wishing I still had them now. One day & you've shown me somethings to do when that day comes. Awesome job & thanks a ton! Looking forward to the next part.
Aluminium foil for light bleed Dave - works brilliantly - no light bleed at all.
Brilliant work as ever bud!👍👍👍👍
Thanks Dave. Very nice custom work and neat wiring. I can't wait for next installment. 👍
Thanks 👍
If you have some self adhesive silver foil, use that on the inside of the front nacelles to stop the light bleeding. Or even normal aluminium foil glued in place.
That's a great bit of work, though. It's a toy I've never seen in the flesh. The same with the figures. Nice one.
Awesome modification. One suggestion is to paint the entire inside black. Those laser leds are so bright you can tell where the paint stops. Also I'm sure you can find some sort of cream paint and paint the laser pods. What would be pretty cool is some sort of white landing light in the front and sounds from the show. Sound boards are small and there seems like plenty of room inside. Keep up the great work, doing more mods would be a great addition to your content.
Awesome job. Wow, the engines light up so well. The interstellar modeler would be delighted if he would see this modification. Really really cool. Thanks Dave for sharing this. Keep up the good work. Stay safe. Stay healthy. The human malware is still around.
brilliant repair custom buck rogers mego starfighter. love the leds cock pit front and back jets. awesome toy polloi.
That Wilma chest piece is outrageous! Wilma goes Anime!! 😅
Fantastic job, as always. I want to send you every piece of my G.I. Joe collection to illuminate! Thanks for the video. It gives me hope that us novices can do some of these things, with your guidance.
I always enjoy your videos and usually learn an interesting tip or two. For the laser LED's, try putting them inside small tubes - that will help block the light from the rear and sides of the LED and only allow it forward towards the laser light pipes and nose cones.
i enjoy watching your video content repair all the toy. keep doing it.
Thanks, will do!
Fantastic as usual, Dave! Would be interesting to see a complete cleanup and sticker creation/replacement of the Rover too. Thanks for another great video. :)
I may get around to that. I did make stickers for it years ago, and I should still have the file for that somewhere.
Hey Dave
One of my favourite series of yours to date.
Take care
I really really really wish I hadn't sold my Starfighter hull a few months ago :( I'd be Toy Polloi-ing it up right now! Very impressive stuff. I think the Buck Starfighter may well be my favourite classic single-pilot spaceship.
Not bad. Would have liked to see you fit some electronics similar in concept to the ones used in the 70's star wars ships, with a steady-on red laser light, and electric motor with buzz strip for laser sound, all activated via push button. The click switch works well for the engine lights, but firing lasers really deserve a trigger.
This is really coming along. It’s amazing what a few lights can do. And the switches ad visual interest to the bottom. I can’t wait to see what’s next. Great job.
Glad you like it!
You're a genius...thumbs up as always bro...you're the best..
Thank you! Cheers!
Mr. Dave, Once again....you bring Industrial Light and Magic 101 to make Yestertoys Brand new and ultra realistic!!! Cheers my friend, Thank you so very much!!! ;)
THE toy repair channel!
just got the rest of the stonegate creations pieces yesterday! woo hoo!
Been looking forward to this one!!!
Such a great restore! To cut down on the light bleed on the lasers, put the LEDS inside a tube. You might use a plastic inkpen for the tube.
Another very, very cool repair and mod video. Thank you!
Very welcome
I love the lights, fantastic.
Awesomeness! Great job Dave.
Buck Rogers’ Space Winnebago!
You might consider using some heat shrink over the sides of the red LEDs, to help cut the aft-ward light bleed. Also, if you wanted to soften/diffuse the light coming out of the engine cowlings, you could try placing a translucent plastic sheet cut to the size of the opening and hot-glued in front of the bulb. (:P)
Instead of painting black, may I suggest using aluminum tape? not only can you use it to prevent the light to bleed , you can also use it to focus to the light pipes :)
That could work. I don't have tape, but I do have paint in abundance. Maybe next time.
@@toypolloi Heat Shrink would work, and you seem to have plenty on hand for your wiring... be mindful of not over heating the bulb while shrinking it! (:P)
Nice, Tim. Thanks. I particularly loved the little sidebar with you adding those 3-D printed parts to the land rover. I confess I don't remember that vehicle appearing in the Buck Rogers show ... maybe it was just for that scene in the pilot film where Buck and TWIKI venture into atomic-blasted Old Chicago. I do, however, remember the Land Ram from "Battlestar Galactica," which Buck Rogers would certainly have reused if they needed to.
i THINK the Land Rover sidepanels (along with the pointy front, etc) are basically to disguise the fact that it was the same base vehicle as the Colonial Landram from Battlestar Galactica (which wasn't the only time the shows swapped items. The penultimate episode of Galactica 80 gives Troy and Dillon the Buck Rogers blasters, instead of the Colonial Blasters they always used previously. There were other ship models that were redressed from Battlestar and used in Buck Rogers - including the model and full size prop of Buck's own Ranger 1, which started as a bright orange shuttle from the planet Terra in Battlestar Galactica.
I can not wait for part 3 and even more! I have 3 star fighter shells that will be restored! I’m also using Stonegate Creations for repro parts!!!
Thanks. Part three is filmed and will be up early next year. Part four is in the works and will be the last on this project. Just a few more pieces to finish and the ship is done. Cheers
@@toypolloi Thanks for all the great work that you do for the toy collecting community!
Very nice work! Running some black heatshrink over your gun lights and whip antennae might help lessen some of your light bleed.
That is chunky
Jolly good show
Killer work
Engines do look great. Something is just a bit off on those lasers though. Not sure if it is the bleed or the blink speed. Maybe a flickery red wld be better? Or a very fast blink
Love the intro Mr Polloi.
I really like how it turned out 👍👍 Too bad they didn't come that way.
Another place you can get fairly cheap pre-wired LED's like that is off Amazon.
A popular hack in the guitar world, is to use coffee to "yellow" white plastic replacement parts so that they match the vintage parts. There are how to videos on youtube that show the results.
Thanks. I will give some a watch and see what they do. Could work!
@@toypolloi I did give a suggestion to prevent light-bleed through bright-coloured plastics and that's by painting the inside a mid-grey colour and then painting over it with the original colour and there we go - problem solved!
Lovely job Dave. I was wondering how you would mount the battery. Velcro! Lol! Excellent . Can't wait to see the final video and how this one turns out.
Simple ideas to help with light bleed...black electrical tape, black hot glue sticks, or dip the back half of the led in black paint.
Awesome looking great 👍🏾
That was awesome 😲 great work man 👍🏽
I build studio scale models and always use foil tape inside to eliminate light bleed. You can get rid of all of it that way
That's not a bad idea, like bare metal foil? I had built an Enterprise with lights, and painted the entire inside flat black to block the light bleed.
That thunder mk 1 never looked better noice.
Used tea bags are good for staining Dave. 👍👍
Can we get a star backdrop with the glowing fighter and Buck figure inside it? Bet it would look like shots in the show.
Aw, this is brilliant!!!
Your intros are sooo good!
Glad you like them!
So cool
Dave more great work as always
Brilliant work. I'd hire you at my shipyard
I have been thinking of getting some Stonegate replacements for my Thunderfighters. I have some OG pieces, but that old plastic... it don't glue.
Looks cool. I use a little time foil to hide the light bleed
Did that get sent 500 years into the future as well?
Hi Dave if you want to stop a lot of that light bleed from the red LED covering with a piece of heat shrink so all that showing is the front piece that's my help a lot more.
Ralph Cooling
If i may, a top light blocking tip would be, white spray primer, followed by a black spray primer and another white layer over the black. The first white coat stops discolouring on the outside and the top white layer keeps the visible interior areas clean white.
Thanks. I may give that a go on future projects.
great job!
I just looked on ebay an the prices have gone crazy 💪🇺🇸🍻🇬🇧
Amazing 👏
The light bleed looks great,looks more vintage that way.
I say remove the black paint.
Two thoughts. The first one is if it would have helped if you had aplied the plastic weld to the engins befor you drilled them. Maybe that would have made it easier, atleast it would be worth trying on some pices for the future. =)
The second one is if it woul help if you simply painted the lazer led bulb as well. The only part that needs to be unpainted would be the one that provides the ligt for the leggo pices. Anyway I think it would help batteling the bleed problem. If not the paint should be easy to remove from the led.
I love it
thats so cool
Awesome
I've been waiting for this. 👍
very cool. seems it would have been easier to paint the lego bits, though, lol.
I always hate when I unwillingly time travel.
You're better off using a soldering iron with a needle tip to pilot holes in PLA, as the heat ensures the 3d print stays together, then you can drill the hole to your required diameter.
Thanks. I will try that in future. I haven't really drilled into 3D prints before like this. So I just thought I would go for it and see what happened. With a bit of plastic weld on it's all held quite firmly.
@@toypolloi in truth the reason it is weak is because the printer has to print across a large gap and so it has very little to bond to as it cools. It shouldn't really happen with too many prints, it's just a quirk of the printing process.
I have had trouble with customs in the past and I'd be interested to know what seemed to be the problem you had? Was it the price of the parts being of a value above £15 before P&P? That used to be the thing I learned to avoid when ordering stuff from overseas. Great customization. Hope your black interior paint is easier than you think.
I have trouble often. I did do a video on it. th-cam.com/video/_Y5vkNI8Zl8/w-d-xo.html
Now I always fight it. And yet again with this one they refunded the money. I think they just assume people won't bother.
Could you use black and white eletric tape for the light bleed?
I do love your intro's. How long does it take to make your intro's? as you have made a fair few different one's.
They can take a while to do depending on how complicated they are. For this one I had the idea ages ago, but wasn't sure how I would go about it. Gary from the Geek Force helped me re-write the script to be Toy Polloi related, and John Faust very kindly recorded the VO for me. Then it took about a day to put it all together and make it work.
I have a play list where you can watch them all. th-cam.com/video/U4QgUdpmalM/w-d-xo.html
It's such a shame that Mego scaled the Thunderfighter down a little. If it had just been a bit bigger, they could have fitted two figures in there, as on TV, the fighter was a two-man ship. Apart from the four-seater version they sometimes used.
How about the Wilma with the new bust? Can we see that?
If that's all it takes to time travel, sign me up for TH-cam video creator! Wait, if I'm watching this am I 500 years in the future too? Thanks for the skip Toy Polloi, off to see what the future looks like.
why not try kitchen foil round the light then hot glue in place think may be bit better and not to much light bleed may be bit bitter
You should definitely check out Candy Labs...
They look nice. Too much for my pocket at the moment.
I want to do a Star Wars project
I want to make a ship with the Van Halen Frankenstrat look
What ship would you recommend?
Tie interceptor
TIE Interceptor
You mean "screen accurate" Wilma, yes?
where can you get plastic weld from
Model shops, ebay, or check out the tool shop on toypolloi.com. Cheers
Mostly people install those LED kits on xbox controllers👍👍👍👍👍👍
*"HELLO THERE"*
"General kenobi you are a bold one."
On a related note, the TV show has just been released on blu ray by Kino Lorber in the U.S. and is apparently superior to the Australian release from a few years back. Certainly the feature film is now in glorious HD whereas it was only SD in the Oz (and subsequently U.K.) version!
Unfortunately (at least for me) this new set appears to be region-locked...
Thanks for the tip! Been watching it on MeTV over here in the states and you can tell it's been fully restored. Wonder if they've been using the Kino version?
it seems like lately buck rogers is really picking up steam in the toy collecting world.
What millimeter is the black led and where can I get them?I can't find them anywhere in the U.S.What millimeter are the flashing leds?What are those led fitting pieces called and where can I get them in the U.S.?
I get them all from eBay as I mentioned in the video. I'm sure there must be equivalent sellers in the US. Cheers
@@toypolloi I found a light kit on ebay,thanks.Unfortuneatly it didn't come with any flashing red led lights.Would you know what size those lights are?I'm going to be adding sound to my starfighter,when you push the switch for the laser cannons the firing sound come on besides the lights.When you push the button for the engines you hear the engines and some cockpit console computers.Thanks again for your help and I hope to hear from you soon.
I used 5mm LEDs for the laser and engines. 3mm for the cockpit. Cheers
Hi, When is the 3rd video going to be released?
Tomorrow for my Patreons and TH-cam channel Members. Next Friday for everyone else. Cheers
Toy Polloi great! I’m a youtube subscriber to your channel and look forward to seeing it!
Boob armor, YES 👍 😆
It only needs a really annoying WHIRRRRRRRR from a wheel on some plastic to be perfect. 😂
It would be easy to add, but I just hate that noise :D :D :D
Couldn't you just spray the inside of the fuselage with white paint until it's thick enough to block the light....????
If that worked then you wouldn't see the dark of the black paint through the thin plastic....
Tin foil