Always glad to see a man who ain't afraid to fix his own equipment, even if he ain't done it before. One thing for sure. If and when it needs repair again, it ain't gonna be nothing but a step for a stepper. Once again it proves if you own a truck and trailer, your always in it or under it. Nice Job Stacy.
This was great! I'm not afraid of getting in there and getting dirty, but this makes it easier on the old brain cells if I ever need to do this, lol. I believe it's coming up soon, due to the brakes creating a loud noise when I engage them, oh well, like I said, this was a great video, and keep up the great work. Got Your Six Transport LLC will continue to watch your videos, and pray you keep hauling.
always replace your race and bearings if you are going in anyway. If you get a bad bearing after the fact someone drove 50+miles on ,and the outer bearing is essentially welded to the spindle... forget about a gear puller and instead go with a small pneumatic cutting wheel. If you can't get the hub off-get a length of chain long enough and big enough to fit around the studs,,,place a nut on opposite sides, hook another longer chain to it(think 5ft) and give it a whipping motion,or you know ,,,just buy a slide hammer and forget the longer chain,lol. I put electric tape around the castle nut threads and behind when cutting off the bearing. the trick is to go just deep enough, but not quite though to avoid grinding into the spindle, finish it off with a flat chisel and the hammer of your choice to break the bearing in half or get it to move and then use your gear puller... Pound the old races out with a chisel and hammer/air hammer. Clean everything with compressed air/emery cloth/brake clean. Really focus on were the new races will seat. Make a small investment and get a race/seal drive tool. Don't rely on a "piece of wood" or," this big ass socket". If you do use anything else, except wood(i guess) you run the risk of marring/scratching/deforming your races/seal="Oh shit! I have to do this all over AGAIN!" Seat your inner/outer races first then put in your inner bearing, I always add hub oil to the bearing just cuz i don't like going in dry,lol. rub hub oil were seal will seat(just a thin film) seat seal with, and i can't stress this enough, a seal seat/bearing seat tool. Squirt hub oil onto spindle just enough to coat it/ paying attention to coat area were oil seal rides. push stupid magnet on to springy thing and try to jam on hub in one caffeine-fueled motion... place outer bearing/washer/castle nut. tighten and rotate. tighten and rotate. go until tight. back off a hair/ or leave it/depending on feel of stiffness/if you can get cotter pin in... Put a little gasket maker/high temp silicone on the threads of that oil cap(you know you want to!) Put that fucker on tight! Add oil/spin/add oil/spin/add oil/ oops, too much oil, it's spilling out now! put it back in service. Rinse. Repeat. Look -i wrote a novel. Source-i done a few of deese. Hope this helps someone. TL;DR = Buy a new trailer, this one is done.
Stacey Stacey its all wrong buddy. 1st you should have back out the brakes always. That's why it was hard to remove, there were slightly engage. Never use a pry tool. Always carry brake cleaner to clean the backing plate and inner hub. When removing the hub from the axle spindle, always keep it away from the spindle. I know its heavy, but the rear seal can hit it and cause damage to the seal. Never ever mix grease with oil. They cancel each other out and will burn up faster! Also there are seals for oil only and grease only. If you go from 1 to another you have to change the seal aswell. You have never adjust brakes i see. When the hub brake is back on,slightly adjust the brakes back. Than backup the trailer to about 10 miles and hour and stab the brakes. Do it twice. Brakes should be back to spec. When using oil try and use Lucus hub oil. It's thick and seals the seals. Order a left and right complete backing kit as a spare. Get rid of those plastic hub oil caps. They crack and heat up causing leaks. Look up Valcrum Aluminum caps. They can be used for grease or oil. Remove the plastic oil cap and measure the thread from left to right. Yours is prolly a ST 3.75 or ST 4.00. There 200 for all four. Well worth it. You know I got your back fella👍
Next time , when you are taking the hub off, put the wheel back on with a couple bolts and you will have more leverage over the hub. You can pull it off like that. Unless you just like using the puller. Lol great video tho bro. Stay safe. #Atl fam....
Always glad to see a man who ain't afraid to fix his own equipment, even if he ain't done it before. One thing for sure. If and when it needs repair again, it ain't gonna be nothing but a step for a stepper. Once again it proves if you own a truck and trailer, your always in it or under it. Nice Job Stacy.
Well said Jack Vaughn.
Thanks for the shout out! 😁
This was great! I'm not afraid of getting in there and getting dirty, but this makes it easier on the old brain cells if I ever need to do this, lol. I believe it's coming up soon, due to the brakes creating a loud noise when I engage them, oh well, like I said, this was a great video, and keep up the great work. Got Your Six Transport LLC will continue to watch your videos, and pray you keep hauling.
always replace your race and bearings if you are going in anyway.
If you get a bad bearing after the fact someone drove 50+miles on ,and the outer bearing is essentially welded to the spindle... forget about a gear puller and instead go with a small pneumatic cutting wheel.
If you can't get the hub off-get a length of chain long enough and big enough to fit around the studs,,,place a nut on opposite sides, hook another longer chain to it(think 5ft) and give it a whipping motion,or you know ,,,just buy a slide hammer and forget the longer chain,lol.
I put electric tape around the castle nut threads and behind when cutting off the bearing. the trick is to go just deep enough, but not quite though to avoid grinding into the spindle, finish it off with a flat chisel and the hammer of your choice to break the bearing in half or get it to move and then use your gear puller...
Pound the old races out with a chisel and hammer/air hammer.
Clean everything with compressed air/emery cloth/brake clean.
Really focus on were the new races will seat.
Make a small investment and get a race/seal drive tool. Don't rely on a "piece of wood" or," this big ass socket".
If you do use anything else, except wood(i guess) you run the risk of marring/scratching/deforming your races/seal="Oh shit! I have to do this all over AGAIN!"
Seat your inner/outer races first then put in your inner bearing, I always add hub oil to the bearing just cuz i don't like going in dry,lol.
rub hub oil were seal will seat(just a thin film) seat seal with, and i can't stress this enough, a seal seat/bearing seat tool.
Squirt hub oil onto spindle just enough to coat it/ paying attention to coat area were oil seal rides.
push stupid magnet on to springy thing and try to jam on hub in one caffeine-fueled motion...
place outer bearing/washer/castle nut. tighten and rotate. tighten and rotate. go until tight. back off a hair/ or leave it/depending on feel of stiffness/if you can get cotter pin in...
Put a little gasket maker/high temp silicone on the threads of that oil cap(you know you want to!)
Put that fucker on tight!
Add oil/spin/add oil/spin/add oil/ oops, too much oil, it's spilling out now!
put it back in service.
Rinse.
Repeat.
Look -i wrote a novel.
Source-i done a few of deese.
Hope this helps someone.
TL;DR = Buy a new trailer, this one is done.
Great video!!!
Stacey Stacey its all wrong buddy. 1st you should have back out the brakes always. That's why it was hard to remove, there were slightly engage. Never use a pry tool. Always carry brake cleaner to clean the backing plate and inner hub. When removing the hub from the axle spindle, always keep it away from the spindle. I know its heavy, but the rear seal can hit it and cause damage to the seal. Never ever mix grease with oil. They cancel each other out and will burn up faster! Also there are seals for oil only and grease only. If you go from 1 to another you have to change the seal aswell. You have never adjust brakes i see. When the hub brake is back on,slightly adjust the brakes back. Than backup the trailer to about 10 miles and hour and stab the brakes. Do it twice. Brakes should be back to spec. When using oil try and use Lucus hub oil. It's thick and seals the seals. Order a left and right complete backing kit as a spare. Get rid of those plastic hub oil caps. They crack and heat up causing leaks. Look up Valcrum Aluminum caps. They can be used for grease or oil. Remove the plastic oil cap and measure the thread from left to right. Yours is prolly a ST 3.75 or ST 4.00. There 200 for all four. Well worth it. You know I got your back fella👍
My Guy! I knew it was coming LOL. This is Some solid info for me in all the truckers. Thank you so much
@@sandtransllc1824 u my dude Stacey. I knew Mr keep trucking would be back...lol. We should meet up one day after this COVID-19 nonsense 👍
Next time , when you are taking the hub off, put the wheel back on with a couple bolts and you will have more leverage over the hub. You can pull it off like that. Unless you just like using the puller. Lol great video tho bro. Stay safe. #Atl fam....
Do you work on trailers
Life saver
Hey, I’m having the same issue with my trailer. Are you still in Atlanta Georgia and if you don’t mind fixing mines, I can help and pay you.
instead of using a puller on the hub just back your brake adjustment off and the hub will slide off
Great info, Thank you.
How did you remove the oil cap?
Question ? Hey Man how did you keep them Jordans so clean !! LOL
By being real careful. LOL
Bro your videos are like watching a child with matches.
Thanks for watching.
How much on average does hotshot drivers make?
A GOOD driver can make $1300 -2k per week.
@@sandtransllc1824 You got to run your ass off to make that kind of money.