Thanks for the video. I really enjoyed watching your build. I just started my build this morning and got up finishing the slipper. The building of the shocks was super helpful. If I didn't watch your video I'd have no idea about putting the rubber tubing on the rear shock shafts. Right after I started digging through bins looking for some tubing and luckily found some. 1/2 inch it is. Thanks so much. keep up the great build videos.
@@HotTrackRC Hi Quick Question, which size shock rod end did you use. They give you 4 long and 4 short ends where you put the pivot ball into. Long in rear and short in front? Thanks.
I use the short ones all around since I drive on a high grip surface and want to get the ride height as low as possible. These cars inherently sit high compared to modern buggies. The original gold pans used the same length shock rod end front and back. I think the short are close to the original length.
Ace Hardware stores have the black oxide finish 1/8" E-clips in the little bolt bins. Same for the 8-32 plastic nuts for the top of the servo saver. They also have the roll pins for the rear axle shafts. NAPA may have them as well. I wish they would have included the aluminum 8-32 screws instead of the steel ones. Thank you for the tip on the zip ties on the servo saver!
Im glad you addressed the dogbone/universal to diff cup sides. I also just got done building my team car. I thought i was going nuts! I dont like how short the bone side engagement is to the outdrive . I also noticed with my team car build that the diff slides side to side in trans. (Like end play) I had to order shims from McMaster Carr to shim the diff. I added 12mm of internal limiter in the rear shocks, (like you did) so that the dogbone end stays in the outdrive at full suspension droop.
Bought one of these based on your unboxing video which answered a lot of questions...........thank for that and this build video. I do not understand though why no parts are available..............is this buggy meant for shelf display?
I just got mine together and I was wondering about the dog bone issue. Thanks for the pointer with the shims. I’ll have to try that .One problem I am having is I can’t get the front bearings over the axles. They simply will not go. I tried putting grease and it’s like either. The axle is too big or the bearing is too small. I can’t get the front wheels on. Do you have any suggestions?
Sounds like the axles are out of tolerance. It’s less likely the bearing bores would be undersized. They are 3/16” diameter. My axles measure about.1865” which is .001” under nominal. If you don’t have a micrometer or good calipers to measure then you need to find some other 3/16” bearings to try. My guess is they won’t fit. No point in forcing them on since you’ll have stuck wheels. I’m sorry you’re having this issue. I’ve heard that Associated will help with these types of issues but I don’t have personal experience.
I definitely like CVD's and may go to that on the Team Car. Interestingly, some racers are reverting back to u-joints on the new RC10 B7. Watch the Hall Brothers RC: "NEW Carpet setup Findings! What We've Learned: B7". It's right at the end (16:31) of the video. Apparently, u-joints don't stiffen up as much as CVD's coming out of corners and don't change the behavior of the car as much but might be considered too "soft".
Some good tips in this vid. 👌
Merry Christmas!!!!!
Thanks for the video. I really enjoyed watching your build. I just started my build this morning and got up finishing the slipper. The building of the shocks was super helpful. If I didn't watch your video I'd have no idea about putting the rubber tubing on the rear shock shafts. Right after I started digging through bins looking for some tubing and luckily found some. 1/2 inch it is. Thanks so much. keep up the great build videos.
Have fun!
@@HotTrackRC Hi Quick Question, which size shock rod end did you use. They give you 4 long and 4 short ends where you put the pivot ball into. Long in rear and short in front? Thanks.
I use the short ones all around since I drive on a high grip surface and want to get the ride height as low as possible. These cars inherently sit high compared to modern buggies. The original gold pans used the same length shock rod end front and back. I think the short are close to the original length.
@@HotTrackRC awesome. Thanks 🙏
Just seen my old rc10 up in the attic the other day
Get it down! I’m excited just thinking about it :)
Ace Hardware stores have the black oxide finish 1/8" E-clips in the little bolt bins. Same for the 8-32 plastic nuts for the top of the servo saver. They also have the roll pins for the rear axle shafts. NAPA may have them as well.
I wish they would have included the aluminum 8-32 screws instead of the steel ones.
Thank you for the tip on the zip ties on the servo saver!
@@briancarsen6315 Thanks for the hardware heads up!
Im glad you addressed the dogbone/universal to diff cup sides. I also just got done building my team car. I thought i was going nuts! I dont like how short the bone side engagement is to the outdrive . I also noticed with my team car build that the diff slides side to side in trans. (Like end play) I had to order shims from McMaster Carr to shim the diff. I added 12mm of internal limiter in the rear shocks, (like you did) so that the dogbone end stays in the outdrive at full suspension droop.
You’re right, mine has diff end play also. Pretty substantial. Thanks for pointing that out. Time to order shims!
JC racing in the UK do screw sets.
I think the later version specified the short wheelbase
Bought one of these based on your unboxing video which answered a lot of questions...........thank for that and this build video. I do not understand though why no parts are available..............is this buggy meant for shelf display?
The grease on the outdrives and diff rings are to keep them in place when you're putting it all together.
That makes sense. Thanks. I just wonder what effect it has on slippage.
I just got mine together and I was wondering about the dog bone issue. Thanks for the pointer with the shims. I’ll have to try that .One problem I am having is I can’t get the front bearings over the axles. They simply will not go. I tried putting grease and it’s like either. The axle is too big or the bearing is too small. I can’t get the front wheels on. Do you have any suggestions?
I had the same issue with my axle. I just used some sandpaper about 600 grit and sanded the axle enough to allow the bearings to slide on the axles.
Sounds like the axles are out of tolerance. It’s less likely the bearing bores would be undersized. They are 3/16” diameter. My axles measure about.1865” which is .001” under nominal. If you don’t have a micrometer or good calipers to measure then you need to find some other 3/16” bearings to try. My guess is they won’t fit. No point in forcing them on since you’ll have stuck wheels. I’m sorry you’re having this issue. I’ve heard that Associated will help with these types of issues but I don’t have personal experience.
Dont bother with the stock dog ones/outdrives. Get the mip cvd re-re's. Soo much better. I just got em on ebay shipped for $37
I definitely like CVD's and may go to that on the Team Car. Interestingly, some racers are reverting back to u-joints on the new RC10 B7. Watch the Hall Brothers RC: "NEW Carpet setup Findings! What We've Learned: B7". It's right at the end (16:31) of the video. Apparently, u-joints don't stiffen up as much as CVD's coming out of corners and don't change the behavior of the car as much but might be considered too "soft".
@@roadrunnerorange Great tip u posted here.........they make 2 different cvd's.................which one is the right part number.......thx
Now go find the black chassis,black noseplate, and black motor plate, and it will be true👍