Kev !!!! I watch your bike build all the time !! I was looking for help for my washer and you have the same one!! I thought the voice sounded familiar..... I actually had to change the same blower wheel and you made it ease. I also needed to replace the washer timer, which could not find anywhere, there were some on ebay but were sold 2 weeks before I needed to replace mine. I couldn't find a used nor a replacement. After 3 weeks searching I found a place in Canada named Turner's Timer repair. They do vintage rebuilds and replacements etc. They rebuilt it to factory specs and its beautiful. Anyway keep the mountain bike videos coming long with the builds !! I totally dig the full upgraded components. I'm rolling a vintage Motobecane 400HT with full upgrades due to some of your reviews!!! Thanks man !!!
I bought mine in 2006 and it never dies.. my timer button is having an issue finally in 2024. Easily fixed. You sure talk a lot about things unimportant but thank you for the video
Nice job. I kinda know the feeling. Earlier this year our dryer (2001) went out on us; wife wanted to call a repair man or get a new dryer. I did about an hour of research, watched videos on it, tested with a multimeter (voltage tester) found a bad sensor. Ordered the part which was a little less $4, installed it and it worked. Felt so good tearing it apart and fixing it, and knowing I had fun while saving money is just a bonus. I love fixing things, within my skill set, and saving money at the same time.
Thank you so much for posting this video! I just tackled the same job…having your video allowed me to a sneak preview which allowed me to diagnose, fix, and get the right OEM part!!
what do you mean "a regular wall outlet" ? ... do you mean a "old school" 120 volt 2 prong wall outlet ( used on a wall clock), a "new grounded" 3 prong wall outlet ( used for a desktop computer), or a big honking cable 3 prong circular wall connector ( used for big appliances such as ovens & dryers ) ... all of which are "normal wall outlets" - I have all 3 in my house.
No photo but lots of info. Matched wires to terminals by numbers on both end of the wire and printed on the terminal. Had several left over but found that if I removed the washer knob, that there were several more terminals under it that are also numbered.
I’ve got a 2020 model Maytag dryer just the stand alone unit. It gets lint inside as well like yours they just don’t seal them perfectly. Another awesome video keep it up
I have the same exact model that the Washer just stopped working after 22+ years. I have already replaced the door switch mechanism & fuse but I am thinking that it is the button mechanism. I have not found anywhere how to replace it and even if the part is still available...
Kev, Congrats on your successful diagnosis and repair. Was a Tech for one of your favorite retail establishments.... The dryer sucks in air from all around it so any lint floating around will be sucked in to the cabinet and builds up over time. It is VERY important to mention to unplug the unit or shut off the breaker before doing ANY repairs inside the machine. Many of these dryer units operate at 240vac if electric and can deliver a serious jolt if you bridge any connections.
Keep on fixing it and keep it going, because they don't make anything as good as they used to. The amount of time and money (mostly time) I've wasted fixing my new Samsung washer/dryer these past three years is disgusting.
Hey I have the same machine but I’m missing the leg assembly that connects and secured the washer and dryer together. Do you know Where I could find a replacement?
Hi , i have combo Maytag washer and dryer .When i press start botten the solenoid opening water in the second i take my finger away from start botten it's stop working please advise Thanks.
Help. I was given one of these for free. The guy says the dryer doesn't work but the washer does. Can they be separated ? Will the washer run without the dryer? Thanks.
Thank you for the video. I have the same unit . Could you please point me in the right direction where to start, mine started to make a load squeaking noise a few days ago. We have this dryer for quite a while now and would hate to part with it. Which part should I examine first ?
Nice video. I also have a Maytag Stacker, Serial Number ends in HZ. in 2014 I had to replace the flame sensor and got all the lint out then, Now, 10 years later I have to replace a broken drum belt on my old Maytag Stacker Will replace the drum rollers and tension pulley while I have it open. Gave up on the washer when it was more than the belts, it was the main bearing ( maybe) . For $100 I bought a used stainless Speed Queen in excellent condition. . The belts I am stuck with cost me $50.
I just moved into a house that has this same washer and dryer but I don't know how to turn the washer on! Can anyone offer some assistance? Even the Maytag live chat couldn't help
I moved into an apartment with this washer/dryer. how do u use the washer, i know that seems stupid but i am honestly confused by the settings. how do i just make it go for an hour
WHY have a wash "go for an hour" ... this washer can get it done in about 20 minutes. 1) toss detergent in tub 2) fill with clothes & close lid 3) select water level & water temp rotate 4) pull dial OUT 5) rotate to setting "normal" at the 18 mark 6) PUSH dial IN to start cycle.
All I can say is do not go with cabrio if you ever need to buy replacements. The old stuff from the 90's and earlier are pretty easy to keep going. The newer models seem to have a built in five year lifespan to 'em.
Our old Sears dryer lasted maybe 20 years, that's until I fixed it, and it worked and dried our clothes better than our new LG....thanks TH-cam, that's my fix all place to go.... I don't think Kev has to buy anything new, he might still drive the car his grandpa had for 30 years....lol..
14:40 You have stumbled upon a major flaw in Amazon reviews. Amazon combines the reviews. A quick example is batteries. They will put all of the reviews of a line of batteries on one page. You can be looking at a pack of AA batteries and if you look in the reviews, there are reviews of C, D and AAA batteries as well as the AA. It's not just batteries. It's everything. Next time you are buying something from Amazon, be on the lookout for it. I've seen it in a lot of categories.
Amazon reviews are majorly flawed. As far as I can tell, they recycle ASINs, so you can be looking at a bike tire and half of the reviews might be for a hair brush that had the same number 2 years ago 🫤
You should hang onto this thing for as long as humanly possible. After 2000, there basically are no good top loading washing machines. According to Consumer Reports, there was a year either 2000 or 2001 or 2 that federal laws regulating water use came into effect basically ruined washing machines. This is utterly ridiculous. There should not be federal water usage laws. Southern California and other parts of the Southwest have water shortages, but most of the rest of the country has more water than you can shake a stick at. Plus, build quality has collapsed. I simply do not even believe that they are in any way more efficient than 22 years ago. Electric motors were perfected 100 years ago. Insulation too. Resistive heat elements as well. Even if they are more "efficient," replacing the machines years before you used to have to replace them, more than makes up for it. Plus, I think it's just marketing wank. They are fairly simple machines with the major parts of them haven't changed in a very long time. Other than light bulbs, I have never once replaced an appliance and saw my gas or electric bill decline.
I’m not a fan of high efficiency washers, so this will be mine as long as there are parts for it. I claimed it before most people are even thinking about washers. I’ve practically grown up with it 😂. Water will be what wars of the future are fought over. Regarding higher efficiency ratings meaning using less electricity. As a person that has monitored power consumption more than is probably healthy, I can vouch for the positive impact if used properly.
@@kev-reviews It's physics. It takes a certain amount of heat to evaporate a kg of water. It takes 2,264,705 Joules to evaporate a kg of water. A clothes dryer evaporates water. That's what it does. Inefficiency is nearly always losses to heat. The dryer really cannot be improved upon in terms of drying clothes via evaporation. The only way to get the dryer to use less energy evaporating water is to put drier clothes in it (which it is possible that a modern washing machine removes more water from the clothes via spin cycle than a very old washing machine) . I don't deny if you buy a water heater with more insulation, it will hold the heat longer. But as far as heating it up goes, this is a physics problem. It takes X Joules to heat Y amount of water by Z degrees. It takes 4.18 Joules to raise 1 gram of water 1 degree Celsius. It was true 40 years ago, it's true today. That number never changes. The motors use such a small percentage of the overall energy consumption that they really don't matter. The main way to improve it is to make the tub lighter (more cheaply). Basic AC motors have not gotten more efficient. Water is regional. If you live in the Southwest, wars could indeed break out over water. That's not gonna happen on the East coast. It's not going to happen in Seattle. It's not gonna happen in Florida. It's probably not gonna happen in Alabama either. Not only do I pay close attention to my energy bills, my energy provider sends me a report card comparing my energy use to my wasteful neighbors, my typical neighbors and my efficient neighbors (they made these terms) and I almost always beat my efficient neighbors. I have purchased appliances which claimed they would save me money, none actually have. I had to replace my water heater in June 2020, my summer gas bill went up year over year, though to be fair, it's bigger. The numbers are marketing wank. Some I've seen are comparisons to other what they call "less efficient" competitors or a different model. The main exception to this happened about 55 years ago and 14 years ago. What happened 55 years ago is appliances went from tube based electronics to solid state electronics. A color TV from 1965 used well over 300 watts, some as high as 500 watts. A combination of solid state electronics and high component integration dropped that to about 70 watts for the same size TV (say a 24" TV from 1965 and a 24" TV from 1985). A tube AM (all American 5) radio will consume about 30 watts, whereas a solid state AM/FM radio may use 2 watts. The other big one (the mandated change in 2009 from NTSC to ATSC) is the move from CRT TVs to LCD TVs (the mandate massively shortened the time it would take to switch over naturally) . Of course, a lot of that gain got eaten up by the enormous screen size of LCD TVs. I already mentioned light bulbs.
It is entirely possible to dry clothes more efficiently: lower resistance heating elements, higher air flow that extracts the humidity faster, heat pump dryers (they exist) I can’t speak for your neighbor’s energy use, but I know more efficient appliances and devices have saved me considerable money over the years. On both small and large scale appliances/devices. Measured and tracked. Example: At one location I went from an 8 seer central unit to a 14 seer and saved over $70/month in energy use. I saved almost $30 the first month of having a 20 seer mini split instead of the less efficient and lower seer portable AC I had in the bike barn. Seer ratings aren’t marketing wank 🙃 Water shortages - they’re coming for the southeast too! With climate change making each summer considerably hotter than the last that evaporation you spoke of is having an effect and will sadly only get worse. You are correct that LED TVs have grown larger and larger, but CRT TVs we’re getting bigger and bigger at their end too. We like big screens 😁. Energy aside I sure do like how easy it is to move a large LED tv vs how hard it is to move an old CRT tv. Not long ago I had to move an ancient 32” crt tv. Probably the closest I’ve ever come to a hernia.
@@kev-reviews Heating elements are close to 100% efficient. They are already extremely low resistance (current goes up as resistance goes down). Blowing cold air across wet clothes will really do nothing. The air-flow rate of a dryer is optimized to match the heat output of the heating capabilities of the heat generation. This is what makes sweating and even industrial evaporative cooling so efficient. Switching to a different type of appliance can lower energy use, like replacing an electric or gas traditional dryer with a heat pump based dryer. Same is true for your new heat pump air conditioner. My point was that a new standard air-conditioner is not (much, if it all) more efficient than an old standard air conditioner (assuming the old one (from the 90s) is in good repair and working as designed). Presumably, if you replaced an old air-conditioner which used one refrigerant with a different one that used a more efficient refrigerant, that would also increase the efficiency of the air-conditioner. But AFAIK, there hasn't been a new more efficient refrigerant in a long time. AFAIK, the prediction of climate change is that wet places will be wetter and dry places will be drier. Warmer air physically can hold more moisture than cooler air. Again, this is physics. This is why you rarely see major flooding in the winter. Really, if we are to save the American Southwest, we have to stop trying to grow food in the desert, and in particular, food we export anyway.
I'm going to do this job on the exact dryer thank you......😊
Kev !!!! I watch your bike build all the time !! I was looking for help for my washer and you have the same one!! I thought the voice sounded familiar..... I actually had to change the same blower wheel and you made it ease. I also needed to replace the washer timer, which could not find anywhere, there were some on ebay but were sold 2 weeks before I needed to replace mine. I couldn't find a used nor a replacement. After 3 weeks searching I found a place in Canada named Turner's Timer repair. They do vintage rebuilds and replacements etc. They rebuilt it to factory specs and its beautiful. Anyway keep the mountain bike videos coming long with the builds !! I totally dig the full upgraded components. I'm rolling a vintage Motobecane 400HT with full upgrades due to some of your reviews!!! Thanks man !!!
I bought mine in 2006 and it never dies.. my timer button is having an issue finally in 2024. Easily fixed. You sure talk a lot about things unimportant but thank you for the video
Nice job. I kinda know the feeling. Earlier this year our dryer (2001) went out on us; wife wanted to call a repair man or get a new dryer. I did about an hour of research, watched videos on it, tested with a multimeter (voltage tester) found a bad sensor. Ordered the part which was a little less $4, installed it and it worked. Felt so good tearing it apart and fixing it, and knowing I had fun while saving money is just a bonus. I love fixing things, within my skill set, and saving money at the same time.
Thank you so much for posting this video! I just tackled the same job…having your video allowed me to a sneak preview which allowed me to diagnose, fix, and get the right OEM part!!
How do you use the washer?!?
Dial on the far right. Dial to desired wash mode and pull out on dial slightly to start the wash
Hey I’m having trouble finding something to connect it to a regular wall outlet you got any ideas?
Regular wall outlet is 120v. This appliance needs 240v
what do you mean "a regular wall outlet" ? ... do you mean a "old school" 120 volt 2 prong wall outlet ( used on a wall clock), a "new grounded" 3 prong wall outlet ( used for a desktop computer), or a big honking cable 3 prong circular wall connector ( used for big appliances such as ovens & dryers ) ... all of which are "normal wall outlets" - I have all 3 in my house.
I could use a photo of your panel wiring hook up. Some wires came loose and there is no where to find where the 3 loose wires go.
Did you ever find a photo of the wires mine came loose also
No photo but lots of info. Matched wires to terminals by numbers on both end of the wire and printed on the terminal. Had several left over but found that if I removed the washer knob, that there were several more terminals under it that are also numbered.
I’ve got a 2020 model Maytag dryer just the stand alone unit. It gets lint inside as well like yours they just don’t seal them perfectly.
Another awesome video keep it up
Thanks for sharing
Does anyone know the cubic feet for this unit?
There are no specs on the sticker, but I was able to look up with the model number. Specs say the washer is 2.5 cu. ft. and dryer is 4.7 cu. ft.
I have the same exact model that the Washer just stopped working after 22+ years. I have already replaced the door switch mechanism & fuse but I am thinking that it is the button mechanism. I have not found anywhere how to replace it and even if the part is still available...
Kev, Congrats on your successful diagnosis and repair. Was a Tech for one of your favorite retail establishments.... The dryer sucks in air from all around it so any lint floating around will be sucked in to the cabinet and builds up over time.
It is VERY important to mention to unplug the unit or shut off the breaker before doing ANY repairs inside the machine. Many of these dryer units operate at 240vac if electric and can deliver a serious jolt if you bridge any connections.
Thank you
Keep on fixing it and keep it going, because they don't make anything as good as they used to.
The amount of time and money (mostly time) I've wasted fixing my new Samsung washer/dryer these past three years is disgusting.
Hey I have the same machine but I’m missing the leg assembly that connects and secured the washer and dryer together. Do you know Where I could find a replacement?
Have you tried contacting a Maytag parts distributor?
Hi , i have combo Maytag washer and dryer .When i press start botten the solenoid opening water in the second i take my finger away from start botten it's stop working please advise Thanks.
Help. I was given one of these for free. The guy says the dryer doesn't work but the washer does. Can they be separated ? Will the washer run without the dryer? Thanks.
I would just bot run the dryer and use it as a washing machine….actually, I would investigate what’s wrong with the dryer part, but that’s me 😁
Thank you for the video.
I have the same unit .
Could you please point me in the right direction where to start, mine started to make a load squeaking noise a few days ago.
We have this dryer for quite a while now and would hate to part with it.
Which part should I examine first ?
Most likely the dryer belt. Easy fix and the belt and rollers are readily available
I have this model 💙
Help mine will not drain or spin
Nice video. I also have a Maytag Stacker, Serial Number ends in HZ. in 2014 I had to replace the flame sensor and got all the lint out then, Now, 10 years later I have to replace a broken drum belt on my old Maytag Stacker Will replace the drum rollers and tension pulley while I have it open. Gave up on the washer when it was more than the belts, it was the main bearing ( maybe) . For $100 I bought a used stainless Speed Queen in excellent condition. . The belts I am stuck with cost me $50.
i used a leaf blower
I just moved into a house that has this same washer and dryer but I don't know how to turn the washer on! Can anyone offer some assistance? Even the Maytag live chat couldn't help
Turn the large right dial to the desired wash type and pull out. Load size and water temps are the two small knobs between the two large dials
Do you have a link to that other video you mention?
Are you referring to the repair video from Maytag?
I moved into an apartment with this washer/dryer. how do u use the washer, i know that seems stupid but i am honestly confused by the settings. how do i just make it go for an hour
WHY have a wash "go for an hour" ... this washer can get it done in about 20 minutes.
1) toss detergent in tub 2) fill with clothes & close lid 3) select water level & water temp rotate 4) pull dial OUT 5) rotate to setting "normal" at the 18 mark 6) PUSH dial IN to start cycle.
From blow molds to blower wheels, who knows where Kev will go next!
All I can say is do not go with cabrio if you ever need to buy replacements.
The old stuff from the 90's and earlier are pretty easy to keep going. The newer models seem to have a built in five year lifespan to 'em.
Our old Sears dryer lasted maybe 20 years, that's until I fixed it, and it worked and dried our clothes better than our new LG....thanks TH-cam, that's my fix all place to go....
I don't think Kev has to buy anything new, he might still drive the car his grandpa had for 30 years....lol..
14:40 You have stumbled upon a major flaw in Amazon reviews. Amazon combines the reviews. A quick example is batteries. They will put all of the reviews of a line of batteries on one page. You can be looking at a pack of AA batteries and if you look in the reviews, there are reviews of C, D and AAA batteries as well as the AA. It's not just batteries. It's everything. Next time you are buying something from Amazon, be on the lookout for it. I've seen it in a lot of categories.
Amazon reviews are majorly flawed. As far as I can tell, they recycle ASINs, so you can be looking at a bike tire and half of the reviews might be for a hair brush that had the same number 2 years ago 🫤
My problem is the washer
We’re you able to get it fixed?
One more thing: Can you share the name/phone number or web address of your local parts store?
www.bobwallaceappliance.com
You should hang onto this thing for as long as humanly possible. After 2000, there basically are no good top loading washing machines. According to Consumer Reports, there was a year either 2000 or 2001 or 2 that federal laws regulating water use came into effect basically ruined washing machines. This is utterly ridiculous. There should not be federal water usage laws. Southern California and other parts of the Southwest have water shortages, but most of the rest of the country has more water than you can shake a stick at.
Plus, build quality has collapsed.
I simply do not even believe that they are in any way more efficient than 22 years ago. Electric motors were perfected 100 years ago. Insulation too. Resistive heat elements as well. Even if they are more "efficient," replacing the machines years before you used to have to replace them, more than makes up for it. Plus, I think it's just marketing wank. They are fairly simple machines with the major parts of them haven't changed in a very long time. Other than light bulbs, I have never once replaced an appliance and saw my gas or electric bill decline.
I’m not a fan of high efficiency washers, so this will be mine as long as there are parts for it. I claimed it before most people are even thinking about washers. I’ve practically grown up with it 😂.
Water will be what wars of the future are fought over. Regarding higher efficiency ratings meaning using less electricity. As a person that has monitored power consumption more than is probably healthy, I can vouch for the positive impact if used properly.
@@kev-reviews It's physics. It takes a certain amount of heat to evaporate a kg of water. It takes 2,264,705 Joules to evaporate a kg of water. A clothes dryer evaporates water. That's what it does. Inefficiency is nearly always losses to heat. The dryer really cannot be improved upon in terms of drying clothes via evaporation. The only way to get the dryer to use less energy evaporating water is to put drier clothes in it (which it is possible that a modern washing machine removes more water from the clothes via spin cycle than a very old washing machine)
.
I don't deny if you buy a water heater with more insulation, it will hold the heat longer. But as far as heating it up goes, this is a physics problem. It takes X Joules to heat Y amount of water by Z degrees. It takes 4.18 Joules to raise 1 gram of water 1 degree Celsius. It was true 40 years ago, it's true today. That number never changes.
The motors use such a small percentage of the overall energy consumption that they really don't matter. The main way to improve it is to make the tub lighter (more cheaply). Basic AC motors have not gotten more efficient.
Water is regional. If you live in the Southwest, wars could indeed break out over water. That's not gonna happen on the East coast. It's not going to happen in Seattle. It's not gonna happen in Florida. It's probably not gonna happen in Alabama either.
Not only do I pay close attention to my energy bills, my energy provider sends me a report card comparing my energy use to my wasteful neighbors, my typical neighbors and my efficient neighbors (they made these terms) and I almost always beat my efficient neighbors. I have purchased appliances which claimed they would save me money, none actually have. I had to replace my water heater in June 2020, my summer gas bill went up year over year, though to be fair, it's bigger.
The numbers are marketing wank. Some I've seen are comparisons to other what they call "less efficient" competitors or a different model.
The main exception to this happened about 55 years ago and 14 years ago. What happened 55 years ago is appliances went from tube based electronics to solid state electronics. A color TV from 1965 used well over 300 watts, some as high as 500 watts. A combination of solid state electronics and high component integration dropped that to about 70 watts for the same size TV (say a 24" TV from 1965 and a 24" TV from 1985). A tube AM (all American 5) radio will consume about 30 watts, whereas a solid state AM/FM radio may use 2 watts.
The other big one (the mandated change in 2009 from NTSC to ATSC) is the move from CRT TVs to LCD TVs (the mandate massively shortened the time it would take to switch over naturally) . Of course, a lot of that gain got eaten up by the enormous screen size of LCD TVs. I already mentioned light bulbs.
It is entirely possible to dry clothes more efficiently: lower resistance heating elements, higher air flow that extracts the humidity faster, heat pump dryers (they exist)
I can’t speak for your neighbor’s energy use, but I know more efficient appliances and devices have saved me considerable money over the years. On both small and large scale appliances/devices. Measured and tracked. Example: At one location I went from an 8 seer central unit to a 14 seer and saved over $70/month in energy use. I saved almost $30 the first month of having a 20 seer mini split instead of the less efficient and lower seer portable AC I had in the bike barn. Seer ratings aren’t marketing wank 🙃
Water shortages - they’re coming for the southeast too! With climate change making each summer considerably hotter than the last that evaporation you spoke of is having an effect and will sadly only get worse.
You are correct that LED TVs have grown larger and larger, but CRT TVs we’re getting bigger and bigger at their end too. We like big screens 😁. Energy aside I sure do like how easy it is to move a large LED tv vs how hard it is to move an old CRT tv. Not long ago I had to move an ancient 32” crt tv. Probably the closest I’ve ever come to a hernia.
@@kev-reviews Heating elements are close to 100% efficient. They are already extremely low resistance (current goes up as resistance goes down). Blowing cold air across wet clothes will really do nothing. The air-flow rate of a dryer is optimized to match the heat output of the heating capabilities of the heat generation. This is what makes sweating and even industrial evaporative cooling so efficient.
Switching to a different type of appliance can lower energy use, like replacing an electric or gas traditional dryer with a heat pump based dryer. Same is true for your new heat pump air conditioner. My point was that a new standard air-conditioner is not (much, if it all) more efficient than an old standard air conditioner (assuming the old one (from the 90s) is in good repair and working as designed). Presumably, if you replaced an old air-conditioner which used one refrigerant with a different one that used a more efficient refrigerant, that would also increase the efficiency of the air-conditioner. But AFAIK, there hasn't been a new more efficient refrigerant in a long time.
AFAIK, the prediction of climate change is that wet places will be wetter and dry places will be drier. Warmer air physically can hold more moisture than cooler air. Again, this is physics. This is why you rarely see major flooding in the winter. Really, if we are to save the American Southwest, we have to stop trying to grow food in the desert, and in particular, food we export anyway.